HTTP WWW - Cncroutersource.com Homemade-Cnc-Router
HTTP WWW - Cncroutersource.com Homemade-Cnc-Router
Yes, you can build a CNC router that is just about as good as any other for
a fraction of the retail price, and it’s not that difficult! This is not a sales
pitch, this guide is FREE its all below.
There is also a great deal of flexibility when you design and build your own
machine. You will be able to customize your machine to fit you needs best.
Not to big, not to small, just right.
There are many reasons people want to build their own homemade CNC
router. It’s usually because we simply can’t afford to buy one off the shelf
and that’s as good of a reason as any other. Or you may be like me and
enjoy working with your hand and creating something unique. You might
simply be in it for the learning experience. For me personally, I think it
was a little of both.
My Experience
When I first started to design and build my first homemade CNC router, I
had it all figured out in about a day. I had my design ready to go. Then as
I started to buy the parts, I did a little research. I found bits and pieces of
information here and there, but it just lead to more questions.
“Do I really need ball screws or will ACME screws work fine?”
“What kind of linear bearing is the best, and can I afford it?”
“How big of a motor do I need, and should I use steppers or servos?”
“Will this material flex too much over that span?”
Etc.
Every time I had a question that I didn’t know, I would have to go through
the same process. A lot of this was due to the fact I was on a budget and
wanted the best design my money could buy. Which is the same situation
many people building a homemade CNC router are in?
Maybe you don’t want to design your own, but still want to build your own.
That’s where the kits and plans help you most, like the CNC router kits at
www.solsylva.com . Plans are good for what they are, they are
instructions.
There are a lot of them out there and how do you know which one is the
right one. No matter how good the instructions are, if it’s a bad design it
WILL be a bad machine.
That is why you need to be educated as to what you are building and what
each part does!
This Guide
This is where this guide will help you. After designing and building several
of my own homemade CNC routers, I would like to share the knowledge
from my experiences, good and bad. I think it’s sad that this information
isn’t out there, and I DON”T think it should cost you anything.
This guide aims to keep you for making some of the same mistakes that I
By the end, you should be talking CNC like a pro! This will give you a
real heads up when you go to build and design your homemade CNC
router. Regardless if you are using your plans or someone else's.
to build
● Simple to
assemble
● Accurate
Table parts
Primarily off-the- Rack and Pinion or Leadscrew
shelf from home 24 x 48 Inch Cutting Area
centers and department stores.
Part descriptions and sources for the other components
are provided in the plans.
This site gives a list of software, stepper and drive
suppliers.
Cutting areas
Belt Drive Table X 64" Y 27.5" Z 7"
Rack/Leadscrew Table X 48" Y 24" Z 8"
Dual Leadscrew Table X 37.5" Y 25.5" Z 6.5"
These are
all real
machines
that have
been built
and tested
in this shop.
Small Dual Leadscrew Table
All of the 17 x 20 Cutting Area
machines were designed around standard sizes of
lumber and hardware store components. This keeps
construction simple and prices low.
Suppliers for the other parts, such as belts and pulleys,
are listed in the manuals.
Though the
machines are
similar, each
was designed to
meet specific
goals. The
smaller
machines use a
Small Overhead Leadscrew Table
minimum of
17 x 20 Cutting Area components,
are
inexpensive, and are simple to build.
This is why we want to provide you with as many free plans and blueprints
as possible. There several companies devoted to providing plans you can
buy. Some are worth while, and others are not. At the moment, we are
working on several free plans complete with pictures, 3D and 2D
downloads, and even videos.
Even if you decide to use plans, we strongly suggest you read through the
Builder’s Guide There you will find in depth information regarding all the
components and their function.
For now, feel free to check out the plans below. These designs have been
tested and built by many CNC router enthusiasts.
CNC Router Plans Download Center
“JGRO’s” Design
This build can be very sturdy if built correctly. The set of plans also
contains a complete BOM (bill of materials).
Please note, that by downloading this plan, you are under the
agreement that they are not to be resold or used for commercial
purpose. Personal use ONLY!
This set of plans are in a 3D format which can be viewed, rotated, and
dimensioned using a free E-drawing viewer that you may download here.
Please note, that by downloading this plan, you are under the
agreement that they are not to be resold or used for commercial
purpose. Personal use ONLY!
If you have any question or would like to submit a set of your own CNC
router plans to be reviewed and posted, feel free to contact us.
That’s why this guide is here; to keep you from making mistakes that
might cost you time, money, and performance.
If you are thinking of building your own machine, there is a good chance
you already have a design in mind. This is to be expected. After all, it’s
your machine. This guide does not aim to subtract from any of your ideas
but rather supplement your project with valuable information. I wish that I
had known a lot of this stuff before my first machine. It would have saved
me many headaches and money.
One last comment before we jump in head first. I am assuming you know
some very CNC basics, such as what CNC means etc. If you do not, then
you may wish to start at the CNC router Basics.
Another advantage of this design is that creating a sturdy gantry that will
not flex under load is much easier. This is because the gantry is stationary
and does not have to be light or conform to a certain size to fit your linear
bearings. With a mobile gantry, you must take into consideration the
weight of the gantry itself and the size, in regards to the linear bearings on
the x axis. With the mobile bed design, the gantry itself does not move,
therefore you have more breathing room in regards to the weight, size,
and structural design.
There are disadvantages with this type of design as well. As the length of
the x-axis increases the mobile bed design become less efficient.
If you are unfamiliar with the x, y, and z, axis notation, take a look at the
picture below labeling each. As we discuss the hobby CNC router, the x, y,
and z axis will always be this configuration.
With the mobile bed design, as you increase the x axis length your design
become less efficient due to the size of the bed. When you see a mobile
bed design employed on a hobby CNC router, the total x axis travel is
usually between 12-36 inches. I have seen larger, however the design
becomes increasingly complicated. If you made an extended x axis with a
mobile bed, the actual size of the object you could cut would still be
relatively small because the bed itself is still relatively small.
As a side note, the y and z axis usually changes very little between the
mobile bed and mobile gantry designs.
In conclusion, the mobile bed design is for you if you want a smaller
machine that is compact and relatively easy to build, offering rigid a gantry
but limiting on the overall size. Now let’s look at the mobile gantry.
It can be tricky to design a gantry that is light enough for your design and
still offer little flex under load. Not to mention, you must design it to be
mobile and fit some sort of linear bearing assembly.
The mobile gantry design is very versatile. If you are building anything
other than a small machine, I suggest this be your design choice. Of
course, we will go into greater detail on both designs later.
For now, you need to decide which design will fit your needs best. Now lets
move on to some other considerations.
Right now it’s a good idea to have an idea of the size of piece you want to
be able to cut. Later you may find that you are limited to a certain size due
to materials and parts. For example, some linear systems and materials
may flex excessively over a certain span, which could also limit the cutting
area.
The cutting area is also called the machine travel for each axis. The travel
is not the overall machine size, which brings us to our next consideration.
You want to design and build your machine to hold a certain accuracy and
precision. For example, you machine may be able to cut a piece that is
within .0001 of an inch but the repeatability may be .1 inch.
Many people design and build a hobby CNC router and live with the results,
or keep adjusting to get the results they want. However, there are ways to
design machine to hold a certain tolerance. For example, if you know you
only need a tolerance of .01 inch and you know that all you will ever need,
On the other hand, if you want a machine to hold a tolerance of .0001 inch
repeatable, then there are some design requirements that must be met to
get the required performance.
The material from which you construct your machine should be based on 3
criteria, budget, tools you have to work with, and materials available. It is
hard to say which material is best as it varies with the design. I have seen
machines made from MDF that hold better tolerances than those
constructed of solid metal.
The tools you have may also define the type of material you must use. If
you do not have access to a milling machine or heavy metalworking
equipment, then it may be hard to build your design correctly out of metal.
This will eventually lead to a poor overall machine.
On a piece of paper right down all the tools you have to work with, and
then think of the material you can use. Keep in mind, I have seen
machines built with as little as a drill motor and a hand saw. So there is no
need to think that because you have limited tools you can not create a
hobby CNC router. A popular method is to build a basic CNC router and
then use that to build a nicer one. This method works well if you have
limited tools. Do not take on a job that you do not have the tools for.
6) Budget
Last but not least is the
budget. For most of us, this
is the one factor that will
determine many of our
decisions. After all, if we had
the money, we would just
buy one. Well maybe we
would just buy really nice
parts and bolt them
It breaks down all the components of a hobby CNC router and parts you
will need. This will help you stay organized and see where you should
spend the bulk of your money. I also included information on what you
should expect to pay. As a warning, the bulk of your budget should go
towards the linear motions system and the drive system. We will cover this
in greater detail in later steps.
Summary of Step 1
Now that we have the major decisions worked out, let con Building a
hobby CNC router Step 2
Homepage
The frame and base design will be determined partially by the materials and
supplies that you have, the number of lead screws lead screws , and motors your
budget allow etc. However, we need to become familiar with different designs so
that you may buy parts that fit your design.
If you can not find or can’t afford the parts for the design you would like. Then it’s
back to the drawing board to optimize the design for the materials you do have.
This will likely happen a lot when you build your own CNC router.
When you look at other homemade CNC router designs, you may notice that
almost ever unit is different. Although this is true, you can break down these
designs into categories.
The image above shows only the base and does not show the gantry. Pay no
attention to the type of linear bearings.
The fully supported design means that both the Y and X axis may rest on the floor
or some other structure. There is nothing connecting the gantry across the Y-axis.
This allows for a very sturdy design and is not susceptible to the cutting table or
the structure itself flexing under its own or external weight.
In order for this system to flex or deform, the material itself would need to
compress.
Keep in mind we are not talking about massive amounts of flex. This all ties back
in to the Step 1 on how to build your own CNC router. Where you should already
have some idea as to the desired precisions and accuracy you want your machine
to hold. A deformation of 0.001” is acceptable if you only expect 0.010” accuracy
from your machine.
There are drawbacks with this design, the cost. You will need and extra lead
screw, lead nut, and motor. You may employ a fully supported frame design with
one motor using a pulley and belt system, but you will need to make sure you
motor is up to the task. We will cover how to calculate that in the CNC drive
system section. With this design you can get away with a lighter material as it will
be supported against the ground or some other structure. Now let’s look at
another design.
When we say “fully supported” in this section, we mean that there is nothing
obstructing sweeping across that axis during operation.
Later we will discuss fully and end supported linear bearing systems, but that is
not the focus in this section. We are focusing on the frame itself.
It is possible to have a fully supported linear bearing system and not have a fully
supported frame. You can see this in the Solsyva design below.
The more common design with most hobby CNC routers out there is the partially
supported X or Y-axis.
The
image above illustrates a supported Y-axis and a end supported X-axis frame. This
is the most common design.
The gantry would have an undercarriage that would connect the gantry to the lead
screw. With this setup you could have a “fully supported” linear rails or rods
setup. . However, the rods or rails would still be able to flex with the frame itself.
You may only support the frame on the ends since there must be clearance
between the ground and the frame to allow the gantry undercarriage to move
along the X-axis. In the image above, the Y-axis would be considered supported
since you could have a frame that would not interfere with the gantry movement.
The frame across the Y-axis would prevent flexing for that axis. This would mean
the cutting bed would be very rigid in the Y-axis but could flex or deform along the
X-axis.
With the design above, even if the frame were made of solid aluminum measuring
1-1/2’’ by 4-1/2’’ and the X-axis span were 60 inches, the frame would “sag” .01
inches in the center, just under its own weight. That does not include the weight
of the gantry or anything else.
You can understand that this would be an issue if I’m trying to design a machine
to hole a tolerance of 0.001’’ in the Z-axis. It is true that the machine would flex
as a whole and could be compensated. However, the machine could vibrate and
bounce when cutting creating lines in the work. If your machine has a relatively
small X-axis span, this design works well and is probably the easiest to setup.
There are other solutions.
Let’s say I have only one motor and lead screw for the X-axis and still wish to
maintain a high tolerance on my machine. I could move the Y-axis gantry
assembly inside the frame which would allow me to fully support the X-axis
because the gantry would not cut under the X-axis frame. However in that
situation, the Y-axis frame would not be fully supported.
As you can see in this design, the longer X-axis is fully supported (on the ground),
however the gantry would cut through any frame in the Y-axis inside the cutting
area.
This means that no matter how much weight I put on the gantry or cutting table
(not pictured), the X-axis frame would only deform if the material itself deformed.
With this design, the cutting bed would need to have its own frame and could
“sag” in the center. However, he machine itself would be constant and once the
cutting bed is installed, you could true the cutting table surface by plain the
surface with the machine.
When you design or build your own CNC router, you need to decide which is more
important. Have the machine remain constant or have the cutting bed and the
machine flex together. We will cover this more when we discuss the cutting bed.
Alternatives
There are other alternatives when you build or design your own CNC router. One
way to obtain a fully supported router is to do away with the gantry undercarriage
and have the lead screw connect at the top of the gantry or have 2 lead screws
high on each side. You may see this application in the Solsyva designs. They offer
these blueprints on how to build your own CNC router.
However, with a single lead screw up high above the gantry, it makes access to
the cutting bed somewhat difficult. This design works well for smaller machines
that you wish to be mobile. For instance, a CNC router designed to carve shapes
on wood flooring.
The mobile
bed or
movable bed
design
approaches the CNC router frame differently. With a mobile bed CNC router, like
the one pictured above, you may have a fully supported frame and bearing system
for the X-axis without compromising any structural framing.
With this design you also only require one motor and lead screw for the X-axis.
Because the lead screw attaches to the bed itself and there is no undercarriage for
the gantry, the bearings and frame would not be in the way. This is advantageous
because if you want design and build your own CNC router, the chances are you
want to save as much money as possible.
The bed must also only support its weight and the weight of the material you will
be cutting. It does not hold the weight of the gantry itself. However, this design
may be inefficient for larger designs as we discussed in step one.
Other Considerations
When you design and build your own CNC router, the material you use to
construct the frame will play a big role in the design of the frame.
Different materials will deform differently. Keep the material consideration in mind
as you choose a frame design. Most popular materials are:
1) MDF
2) Plywood
3) Aluminum Stock
5) Steel
Keep the materials in mind as you think of how to build your CNC router.
In later sections of this guide we will discuss bearing placement, lead screw and
motor placement, and other design features. All of which should be considered
when you build your own CNC router.
For now just review and consider your options for the base and X-axis. When you
design or build your own CNC router, you may decide to employ some elements
from each design.
If you try to rush the process and forget to consider these design issues when you
build your own CNC router, then you may be setting yourself back.
Before you set anything in stone, let’s take a look at the Y-axis gantry and the Z-
axis frame assemblies.
We add and edit this information on how to design and build your own CNC router.
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The gantry design is a proven design for "do it yourself CNC routers." However, there
are still many things that you should be aware of.
From a design standpoint, you want your gantry to be stable and balanced. Design the
CNC gantry to meet the forces that it will encounter. This will prevent excess stress and
strain on you bearings, lead screw, motor, etc.
In order for you to be able to design and build your gantry to meet the required forces,
you first need to identify and understand the forces involved.
Let’s take a look at the forces evolved with a do it yourself CNC router gantry.
The above image illustrates a side view of a typical do it youself CNC router gantry.
Take a minute to look over the image, there is a lot there. Now let’s discuss what is
happening. It may seem confusing at first but it’s rather simple once you understand
what is taking place. We will discuss.
Center of gravity/mass
Forces
Moment
D1 = the distance between the cutting tool (the router bit) and the center between the
D2 = distance between lead screw/ linear bearings and the bottom Y-axis linear
bearing rail/rod.
D3 = distance between the lower and upper Y-axis linear bearing rods/rails.
D4= distance between the 2 linear bearings that sit on the X-axis linear bearing rods/
rails.
The image above illustrates a gantry that is moving from left to right as you look at the
screen. It is being pulled or pushed by the CNC drive system at the bottom. Now, the
router spindle at the bottom. Now, the router spindle is lowered and it starts cutting.
The cutting action apposes the movement of the gantry resulting in a cutting force. The
cutting force varies according to the gantry acceleration, spindle RPM, and the chip
load. The chip load depends on the bit you use, the RPM, and the material. We will get
into these details when we discuss the CNC router spindle. For now just know you have
a cutting force apposing the movement of the gantry.
Just so you know, a force is equal to mass of multiplied by its acceleration. The units of
force are lb-f (pounds of force) in the English system or the Newton in the SI system.
The cutting force results in a moment, which is moment A in the figure above. A
moment results when you have a force applied at a distance. A moment has units of lbf-
in or N-m, we usually call a moment force torque.
Moment A, in the image above, is the result of the cutting force being applied at the
distance D1.
Example:
If the distance D1= 12 inches and the cutting force is 5 lb of force. Then the Moment A
would be 5lb x 1ft = 5 ft lb of force. ( I converted 12 inches to 1 foot) You can see that
even if the cutting force remains the same, the longer the distance of D1 the larger the
moment will be.
Moving on, the Moment A results in 2 forces on the Y-axis linear bearing rods/rails.
These resulting forces are forces A and B in the figure above. Force A and Force B are
equal to each other Force A = Force B.
You can see that as the vertical distance between the two linear rods/rails (for the Y-
axis linear bearings) grows, the resulting forces A and B shrink which is good. Why is
this good? It reduces the amount of centralized torque that is on the gantry itself.
Moment B = D2 x Force A
Moment B is what causes the whole gantry to rock or want to rotate due to the cutting
force. This is not a good thing. You want to decrease Moment B as much as possible.
Why?
You want to make have equal amounts of force on your set of linear bearings as
possible. This will reduce deformation and chatter in your machine.
1) Reduce Force A
2) Reduce the D3
A well designed machine keeps force C and force D to be as equal as possible. And that
is the goal.
Force C and D are the sum of the weight of the machine and resulting forces that occur
do to moment B.
We also need to consider the weight of the gantry and try and calculate or guess where
the center of gravity will be and keep that directly in the center between the two
separated bearings (½ D4). The center of gravity is the point at which the machine
would balance.
That is why you often see the gantry upright side arms slanted backwards an a do it
yourself CNC router. This compensated for the weight of the spindle which hangs our
over the Y-axis linear bearings. When you build a do it yourself CNC router, you want
the center of gravity of the whole gantry assembly to be directly between the two
linear bearings. Or if you have a stationary gantry and a mobile bed, you want center
of gravity to be in the center of the bottom of you gantry side arms.
This assures that your machine is balanced and could stand own its own. This applies
equal load on your bearings.
When you design or build a do it yourself CNC router, keep the following in mind:
Try and keep the distance between the X-axis lead screw and linear bearings, as close
as possible to the bottom Y-axis linear bearing rods/rails. Or as close to the center
distance between the top and bottom Y-axis linear rods/rails. (Minimize D2)
Keep the spindle plunge arm on the Z-axis assembly as short as possible and make
that arm out of rigid material to prevent flexing. A normal Z-axis arm travel is
anywhere from 3 to 6 inches. (Minimize D1)
Calculate or estimate where the center of gravity of the gantry will be located, including
the spindle. Design your gantry side arms to compensate and place the center of
gravity (CG) between the front and back X-axis linear bearings per arm. (CG should be
located at ½ D4 and as close to X-axis lead screw as possible)
Maximize the distance between the upper and lower Y-axis linear bearing rods/rails but
still allow for clearance under the bottom rod/rail for your max Z travel. (Maximize D3)
Other considerations
A good gantry design is one of the most crucial factors for a quality do it yourself CNC
router. As with all DIY CNC routers, budget is a concern which means material are also
a concern. Try and visualize and estimate the forces evolved and make your do it
yourself CNC router design work with the materials you have.
If you would like a more thorough analysis you may consult us. We offer free
engineering design analysis of your machine. We can help you find:
Specific CG location
Material stress and strain analysis
Dynamic simulation of your machine
Material selection
And more
Remember, we will discuss more on the gantry design in later section. Topics such as
lead screw placement, motor placement, linear bearing attachments, etc. Which are all
important consideration with a do it yourself CNC router project.
Now let’s take a look at Step 4: the Z-axis assembly design for the do it yourself
CNC router.
Below you can see two examples of Z-axis assemblies with the Y-Axis CNC Router Gantry in the
background.
As with the previous discussions, when designing or building a CNC router it is important to consider the
forces that are evolved. That way, you can adjust your design and verify that it will meet your design
requirements . However, in order to design and build your machine to meet your requirements, you first
need to understand the forces evolved.
D1 = the vertical distance between the upper and lower Y-axis linear bearing rods/rails.
D2 = the vertical distance between the upper and lower sets of Z-axis linear bearings.
D7 = the distance between the cutting force (approx, tip of the cutting tool) and 1/2 D2.
Now that we understand what the dimensions are, let’s analyze the forces and moments.
The above image illustrates an example of a Z-axis assembly shown in a front view and a side view. Look
at the front view and notice that the Z-axis assembly is moving to the right while it rides on the Y-axis
linear bearing rails/rods.
The plunge arm is at max Z travel and is cutting into a material as it moves from left to right. This
cutting action produces a cutting force that apposes the movement of the Z-axis assembly.
The cutting force is a variable of spindle RPMs, the number of flutes on the cutting tool, the feed rate,
and the material that is being cut. You can learn more on how to calculate cutting force here . When
building a CNC router an important decision to make is what types of material you would like to be able
to cut, which was covered in step 1.
For now, just understand that there is a force in the opposite direction than the Z-axis assembly is
moving. Now let’s see what happens because of this cutting force.
The cutting force creates a moment, which is illustrated in the image above as Moment A.
A moment is just a force that is applied at a distance. We covered moments in greater details in Step 3.
Moment A torques the plunge arm in the opposing direction of the cutting force, which torques the whole
Z-axis assembly.
As D5 and D2 increase in length, the resulting forces decrease. You can see that when you are designing
or building a CNC router, it is important to maximize the horizontal distance between the Z-axis linear
rails rails (D5), and the vertical distance between the Z- axis linear bearing blocks.
D2 also has an effect while cutting along the X-axis. Take a look at the image to the bellow.
Moment B is the result of the cutting force being multiplied by the distance between the cutting force and
½ D2.
This moment will apply resulting forces on the Z-axis bearings. As the distance between these bearings
(D2) increase, these forces will decrease. That is why it is best to maximize D2.
As a rule of thumb when building a CNC router, D2 should never be any less that half the length of the
plunge arm. Also, you want the thickness if the plunge arm (D6) to be thick enough to not flex under
your maximum cutting force.
The flex will depend on the maximum cutting force you are designing your machine around, the thickness
of the material (d6), plunge arm length (D3), and the material it is made of.
If you need help calculating your desired cutting force or the amount of deformation a certain material
and size will have, you may contact us We offer free design consultation and other engineering services.
Summary
Keep the following in mind when you design or build a CNC router:
Maximize D1, reduces the forces due to torque caused by the cutting force in the X-axis.
Maximize D2 reduces the forces due to torque caused by the cutting force in the X-axis.
Minimize D3, but still allow for your desired Z-axis travel.
Maximize D4, reduces the forces due to torque caused by the cutting force in the Y-axis.
Other Considerations
In later sections of the building a CNC router guide , we will discuss other features such as lead screws,
motor placement, linear bearings etc.
Don’t forget that you may contact us with any questions regarding CNC machines in general or your
design. We will try and help any way possible.
The motor mount that is used in the above image may be bought pre-fabricated from K2CNC.com for a
variety of router spindles.
Conclusion
So far we have looked at the first 4 steps when building a CNC router,
Step 1: Key Design Decisions
Now let’s continue to one of the most important features when designing or building a CNC router
system, the linear motion system.
Building a CNC router Step 5: The linear Motion System
Homepage
This holds true for mid-range to high-end models. . If you are buying
hobby CNC routers or low end machines, it is still important for you to be
able to identify quality systems. Some manufacturers do not specify what
types of components are installed and you should know how to identify
faulty systems.For those interested in buying a used system, you need to
know what types of linear system are installed and be able to identify
faults or at least know the right questions ask.
This guide will go through the many options you have for linear systems. It
will discuss advantages and disadvantages of each and also show you how
to build your own if you so choose. It will also include information on how
to mount rails, linear shafts, and much more, including money saving tips
and tricks. If you have any questions regarding LM systems, don’t hesitate
to contact us.
Sections
Etc.
Homepage
Your Guide to
CNC Drive Components
So what are CNC drive
components?
The drive components are the
mechanical components that "drive"
the CNC machine along its axis. The
most common components
associated with a drive system, are
the motor and lead or ball screw.
The whole idea of a drive system is
to convert controlled rotary motion
to controlled linear motion with the
help of a CNC Controller .
If you are buying a CNC machine, it is best to know what type of drive
components are installed. For example, if someone quotes a precision
of .0001 inch and then informs you they have standard ACME screws and
no anti-backlash nut installed, then they are probably over stating the
machines capabilities.
Again, this is especially true if you are buying a used machine. You need to
know what kind of components are installed, how much wear they have,
and could you buy replacement parts if needed.
saving tips and options as well as assembly. If you are interested in Buying
CNC drive parts , then visit our store or take a look at our links page.
There you will find a list of recommended places to buy each part.
drive components. The first being direct drive via use of a anti-backlash
shaft coupler discussed above, and secondly, the use of either pulleys or
gears. We will cover the reasons for having each and also the pros and
cons as usual. This is another one of those things that people often
overlook.
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For example, if you are in the prototyping business, you will probably be
working with all kinds of materials and shapes. This would probably push
you towards a T-slot style, which offers numerous clamping options. On
the other hand, you might produce the same type of product on a daily
basis which would push you towards a different style.
On higher end CNC router router tables now days, you may find a
combination of different types of cutting table tops. However, it is best to
be knowledgeable about what kind of CNC router table will be best for you.
If you are building your own CNC router , your options are limited unless
your budget allows. However, there is still a lot of material to be covered
regarding the cutting board. This information should be very helpful to
your design.
The vacuum style CNC router table top is often found on higher end
models. They can be very useful for many applications. However, there are
drawbacks. For example the...
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Most people readily understand these figures much more than linear
bearings and lead screw information and make a direct link to the
machines capabilities, which is somewhat true.
There are, however, many other important considerations. Such as, RPM,
load ratings, power requirements, and the collet type and size to say the
least.
If you are building a CNC machine, then you also need to make important
decision regarding the router spindle. Again, I realize a lot of hobbyists are
bound by budget which I respect. After all, that’s part of the challenge.
However, there are many choices to choose from within the same price
bracket.
One of the most important decisions for the hobbyists , I believe, is the
noise level. If you are anywhere near neighbors or your own house, then
this is a huge consideration. You don’t want to be running an extremely
load machine for hours at a time, unless you want angry neighbors.
This section will go into detail regarding all aspects of spindles of all types.
Well look at types and features, price ranges , mounting issues, and much
more.
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CNC Electronics
CNC electronics are a vital part of
any CNC machine. Aside from the
motors and CNC controllers , there
are many electronic components
that assist in the machine operation.
If you are purchasing a CNC router , you will probably know right from the
start if something is wrong with the electronics. This should be checked
before ever committing to buying a CNC router. Of course for a new
machine, this should be of little concern. If you are buying a new machine,
everything should be in tip top shape and if not, send it back or have them
fix it.
There are many electronic aspects of a CNC router that are vital to its
function. Things such as limit and proximity switches, motor wiring, correct
cable sizing and selection etc. These features are, in my opinion, vital to
building a reliable machine. Yet many people neglect these feature
There are also some CNC electronic features that are not often required.
Such as manual pulse generators, home and e-stop buttons, touch-off tool
sensors etc. These things may or may not be essential to the machine,
depending on the user, but do increase user friendliness. Not to mention,
increasing the overall look and feel of the machine.
With a few CNC electronic add-ons and a well constructed user panel, you
can make you homemade CNC routers seem like one off the shelf.
Connectors
Overview
Motor Connectors
DB9 Connectors
DB25 Connectors
Misc. Connectors
Lighting
Overview
Lighting your Work
Shop Lighting
Nifty Ideas
Tool Sensors
Overview
Digital Tool Sensors
Analog Tool Sensors
Build a Touch off pad
Breakout boards
Overview
Applications
Options
Build your Own
Troubleshooting
Need Help?
Contact Us
We will try and help you or provide you with
someone who can assist you.
A Brief History
NC controllers were introduced in the late 1940’s and early 1950’s. An NC
controller receives a set of sequenced instructions, the program, consisting
of alpha and numeric characters. The controller then uses this set of
instructions to direct the motions of a machine tool (such as a milling
machine, lathe, or flame cutter), much like the controllers today.
more punched tapes until an error free program was achieved. Engineering
changes required a new tape to be made and debugged.
Modern Controllers
Today, with the use of powerful microprocessors and computer systems,
the NC controller now communicated directly to a computer system with a
real time. This is the CNC controller that most of us are familiar with.
The controllers today do far more than drive motors. Some controller
systems have the capabilities to detect and control limit switches , spindles
speeds, coolant flow, and more.
Types of Controllers
Further more, controllers can be broken down into two categories with
respect to cost and abilities.
For those who whish to save a few pennies and just need a simple
controller to drive motors there is the option of building your own.
This section will cover a complete guide on
building your own CNC controller. We’ll cover
everything from components to circuit boards and
soldering techniques.
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