Canadian Jeweller January / February 2011 Issue

J A N U A RY / F E B R U A RY 2 0 1 1
for the business of retailing jewellery

Scan Me!
Diamonds, Diamonds
Everywhere!
From contemporary design to
colourful creations, diamonds
PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8 | $25
Branding: reign supreme
Dedicated to
It’s more than
just the box
Blue Ribbons
the Bench
AGTA Spectrum
Award Winners
The HST Update Dino and Massimo Giannetti of

So far, so good 18Karat Goldsmiths in Toronto
PLUS:
ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS
001.CJ_Cover.indd 2 12/16/10 3:37:07 PM

Siffary Ad layout 11/30/10 4:35 PM Page 1
1941 2011
W e’re celebrating our seventieth successful year.

And it’s all because of you.
You have recognized the quality Siffari has built into each of our products.
And you’ve rewarded us with success.
The Siffari family thanks you, our valued customers,
as we continue our tradition of quality, integrity and dedication.
Canada’s leading ring and

jewellery manufacturer
Siffari Jewellery Company Limited, 55 Gervais Drive, Toronto, Ontario, M3C 1Z2
Tel: (416) 441-1010 1-800-387-0111 Fax: (416) 441-6188
www.siffari.com email: [email protected]
For Details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 80
CJ_Jan11_Siffari.indd 1 12/15/10 11:08:48 AM

Behind every “Yes,” there’s a great jeweller.
And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.
You’re there for your customers, and at every point along the way, Stuller is
there for you. We offer a vast selection of bridal jewellery in all the latest
styles, as well as unique selling tools like our comprehensive prototype
merchandising solutions and wedding band engraving. For a wealth of ideas and
solutions, call 800-877-7777, or visit us at stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.
B R I DA L F I N I SHE D MOUNTI NGS DI AMONDS GEMSTONES F I NDI NGS METALS TOOLS PACKAGI NG
s t ul ler.com 800-877-7777
CJ_Stuller.indd 1 12/15/10 11:11:43 AM

27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6
T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621
www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: [email protected]
CJ.Jan11_Midas.indd 2 12/15/10 11:14:02 AM

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in
custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all
precious metals and also offer:
New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back Programs

Incentive Programs • Co-op Advertising
CJ.Jan11_Midas.indd 3 12/15/10 11:14:23 AM

CJ_JVC2.indd 1
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The
FLANDERS
Canadian Diamond
Collection
It’s all in the Magic...
Exclusive distribution
for Canada
736 Granville Street, Suite 400, Vancouver, BC, V6Z 1G3 - Toll Free: 1.800.663.0177 - Local phone 1-604-684-1131
email : [email protected] - Website : www.geengee.com
CJ.Jan11_Gee&Gee.indd 1 12/15/10 11:29:24 AM

Established 1879 January/february 2011 • vol. 132, no. 1
Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | [email protected]

Lucy Holden Associate Publisher | [email protected]
Carol Besler Consulting Editor
Paul Aguirre Associate Editor | [email protected]
Scott Jordan Art Director | [email protected]
Elena Viltovskaia Designer | [email protected]
Stacy Karjala Designer | [email protected]
Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | [email protected]
Melanie Seth Controller & Operations | [email protected]
Sunjoyo Tanto Web Programmer | [email protected]
Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | [email protected]
CONTRIBUTORS Chris Davey, Lorraine DePasque, Martin Irving,

John Lamont, Charles Lewton-Brian, Donna Jean
MacKinnon, Duncan Parker, Lihn Pham, Dean
Sanderson, Bonnie Siegler.
sales
Lucy Holden Associate publisher
tel .
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email [email protected]
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tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122
Karolann Cassman ADVERTISING Sales

tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126
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or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1
Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.
Phone 1.800.663.6472
Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all
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www.karatimports.com
Official magazine of JVC
For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

8 CJ January/February 2011 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 12/16/10 11:28:53 AM

TM
14.48 ct blue topaz

pendant with sapphire
accents $465
now partnering with

fine jewelry stores
across Canada
9.25 ctw blue topaz

14.48 ct blue topaz
earrings with sapphire
ring with sapphire
accents $385
accents $465
metalsmiths925.com
toll-free 1-877-425-4299 • [email protected]
CBG Dallas Winter show January 25-27, 2011 The Atlanta SJTA show March 5-7 2011
OPPORTUNITY FOR SALES PROFESSIONALS

Metalsmiths Sterling is looking for experienced sales representatives with established territories and customer base.
A second non-conflict line is acceptable. Email your resume to [email protected]
Western Central and Eastern Canada
SILVERMARK MANUFACTURER

SILVERMARK MANUFACTURER
CJ.Jan11_Metalsmiths.indd 1 12/15/10 11:37:54 AM

table of
Contents
January/February
Features
50
38 Dedicated to the Bench
Custom design and collaboration with fellow artists
and local celebrities keeps 18Karat Goldsmiths
relevant and original.
44 Diamond Winners
Quality diamonds in both medium- and high-end
merchandise are the key to healthy diamond sales
say Canadian jewellers.
48 Canadian Diamond Directory
50 Fancy This
Experts predict a bright future for sales of natural
coloured diamond jewellery.
62 Blue Ribbons
Winners of the 2011 AGTA Spectrum Awards.
66 Finance
The HST Update.
50
44
10 CJ JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2011 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 10 12/20/10 9:58:17 AM

J E W E L L E R T O D A Y.
SUPERHERO TOMORROW.
PERSONAL JEWELRY INSURANCE

Make your customers aware of Personal Jewelry Insurance from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company and you just might
save the day! To learn how you can share information about Jewelers Mutual’s Personal Jewelry Insurance program with your customers,
visit JewelersMutual.ca. To order materials, click the “Canadian retailers” link in the lower left corner of the homepage.
*Personal Jewelry Insurance not available in Québec.
800-558-6411 • JewelersMutual.ca
[email protected]
E X C L U S I V E LY
ENDORSED BY
CJ_JewelersMutual.indd 1 12/15/10 11:39:02 AM

table of
Contents
January/February
Departments
14 Letter from the Guest Editor
16 Product Showcase
58
22 Star Watch
24 Who’s News
58 Designer Profile
Puja Bordia from Tresor.
26 For The Record
68 JVC Feature
30 Mining Feature
70 Face Value
Ontario’s history as a gold- and silver-mining giant.
34 Bench Feature 72 Industry Buzz

The process of picklling. John de Jong’s 15th Anniversary.
54 Company Profile 74 Showcase

Midas Jewelry.
74 Marketplace
80 Fax Back
82 Last Word
54
22
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Alternative Metals Innovation
A. B. C. D.
A. B. C. D. E.
by
www.crownring.com
For details, write #109 on Free Info Page, page 80.
CJ_CrownRing.indd 1 12/15/10 11:41:11 AM

letterfromeditorial
In Praise
of Tradition
Jewellers were among the first merchants to inhabit the
Main streets of Canada – before electronics stores, before
travel companies, before bookstores, there was always a
jeweller who could supply his local clientele with wedding
rings and Christmas gifts. Not surprisingly, many of Canada’s
jewellery stores were founded by immigrants, or the sons
and daughters of immigrants, who brought the talent and
craftsmanship they learned in the old country to the new
world, where they established a new tradition according to
old-world standards. In doing so, they set the foundation for
the jewellery industry here.
The Giannettis of 18Karat Goldsmiths are one such family.

Proprietors Massimo and Dino Giannetti, on the cover of this
issue, are the sons of Italian immigrants Tullio and his wife
Elisabetta, who brought their passion for jewellery making to
Canada and instilled it in their sons, with whom they built
their business from humble beginnings in their basement
workshop. Today, 18Karat is an artisanal jewellery business
whose owners not only take pride in the craftsmanship and
the traditions of the bench, but pass that knowledge on to each
client who walks into their store. In doing so, they perform a
service for every jewellery store in this country, by educating
clients and instilling an appreciation for the art, rather than
the business of jewellery.
Editor-in-Chief
Canadian Jeweller
014.CJ_GuestEditor.indd 14 12/16/10 11:49:41 AM

EXPERTISE THAT SPREADS CONFIDENCE.
AROUND THE WORLD AND AROUND THE CLOCK.
ISRAEL 5 : 0 0 P M
Cutter checks parameters online with
GIA Facetware® Cut Estimator.
HONG KONG 10 : 0 0 P M
Wholesaler views grading results and requests
additional services online at My Laboratory.
NEW YORK
10:00 A M
GIA Master Color Comparison Diamonds
confirm color quality of a fancy yellow.
CARLSBAD
7:00 AM MUMBAI 7 : 3 0 P M
Laboratory technicians calibrate Staff gemologist submits new findings on
measurement devices before coated diamonds to GIA global database.
the day’s production begins.
BANGKOK 9:00 P M
Gemologist confers with Carlsbad lab
about ruby country of origin.
All across the planet, GIA labs and gemological reports are creating a common language for accurate, unbiased gemstone
evaluation. From convenient locations in major gem centers, to frontline detection of emerging treatments and synthetics,
to online services that include ordering, tracking, and report previews — GIA is pioneering the technology, tools and talent
that not only ensure expert service, but also advance the public trust in gems and jewelry worldwide.
W W W. G I A . E D U
CARLSBAD NEW YORK LONDON ANTWERP FLORENCE GABORONE JOHANNESBURG

DUBAI MOSCOW MUMBAI BANGKOK HONG KONG TAIPEI SEOUL OSAKA TOKYO
GIA_LAB_CJA0610.indd 1 6/9/10 8:47 AM

CJ.GIA(expertise).indd 1 12/15/10 11:45:14 AM
productshowcase
Metalsmiths Sterling™
With its intricately detailed scroll work, this Metalsmiths
Sterling™ Panos Konidas™ cuff bangle invokes the timeless
elegance and beauty of the Venetian villa that inspired its
design. Featured in our September Elle ad, it caught the eye of
a Fox studio stylist and will soon be seen gracing the arm of
leading lady Kelli Williams on the hit show Lie to Me. $585.
For more information, write 130 on the Free Info Card on
page 80.
GIA Reports and Grading Systems

GIA offers a suite of support tools designed to assist retailers in
communicating the 4Cs: the International Diamond Grading
System and the value of GIA Diamond Grading Reports. A report
from GIA provides an expert analysis of the quality of a diamond
based upon the “4Cs” of diamond grading – colour, cut, clarity,
and carat weight. The report also includes a plotting diagram,
which depicts the diamond’s unique clarity characteristics,
such as inclusions. In addition, since GIA is not affiliated with
any commercial enterprise, the public is assured the world’s
most impartial and accurate analysis of a diamond. For more
information, write 131 on the Free Info Card on page 80.
Nova Diamonds
Nova takes its diamond flower rings to another level by adding a
vibrant blue accent to add a touch of colour to the 18 karat white
gold setting, studded with 4.60 carats of precision cut high-
clarity, high-colour diamonds. Call Nova Diamonds to inquire
about their full line of diamonds and enamel flower rings. (416)
868-6682. For more information, write 132 on the Free Info
Card on page 80.
016-020.CJ_Product.indd 16 12/16/10 2:05:28 PM

CJ.Jan_BestBargains.indd 1 12/15/10 12:07:05 PM

productshowcase
New Bridal Styles from Stuller

We now offer a vast selection of bridal jewelry in all the latest
styles, as well as unique selling tools such as comprehensive
prototype merchandising solutions and wedding band
engraving services. “Wow” is the word that we hope comes to
mind after viewing our newest bridal settings. We’re excited
about the new line and hope that you and, of course, your
customers will be too. To see the full collection, visit stuller.
com. For more information, write 133 on the Free Info Card
on page 80.
Breanna Collection:
Breanna represents the women who believes she is special as
she is. Determined, passionate about life, design and perfection,
Breanna is what every woman wants to be. She has found
the love of her life and now needs to choose The Ring. But
how to find the perfect ring in a crowded market place where
everyone claims to have the perfect ring for you. That is why
we designed the Breanna Collection. A collection where every
model is unique. Every future bride will find a ring that will
fit her personality and taste. Come to the world of Breanna
and join the women who enjoys the beauty and quality of this
magnificent collection. For more information, write 134 on the
Free Info Card on page 80.
PH Design
149 Church Street | 2nd Floor. Breathtaking cocktail rings
of Amethyst, Pink Tourmaline and Lemon Quartzare are
guaranteed to dazzle! The perfect combination of feminine
charm and easy elegance for any well-heeled fashionista.
From $1,875. For more information, please schedule an
appointment or visit us online at www.phdesign.ca. For more
information, write 135 on the Free Info Card on page 80.

Diamonds are not shown to scale
O’Neill Diamonds Inc.

#622-736 Granville St. Phone: 604-909-0818
Vancouver, B.C. Fax: 604-909-0272
V6Z 1G3 T-Free: 1866-9O’Neill(662-455) www.caratsmart.ca
cjJuneJuly10_ONeillDiamonds_Ad.indd 1 12/15/10 12:32:48 PM

productshowcase
Pandora
PANDORA jewellery inspires women to embrace and express
their individuality and celebrate life’s unforgettable moments.
PANDORA’s collections include customizable charm bracelets,
rings, earrings, necklaces, and watches made from sterling silver and
14K and 18K gold with hand-set precious gemstones. To view the
PANDORA collection, build a bracelet online or locate a jeweller, Image Fifth Avenue
please visit PANDORA.net. For more information, write 136 on the A beautiful set in 18k white gold, enhancing the beauty of the rubellites.
Free Info Card on page 80. The total weight of the diamonds is 7.90ct ,and the 4 rubellites have a
total weight of 20.88ct. For more information, write 137 on the Free Info
Card on page 80.
IN PURSUIT OF THE ULTIMATE ACCURACY IN TIMEKEEPING,

BULOVA INTRODUCES PRECISIONIST.
Bulova introduces Precisionist, the world’s most accurate watch with Introducing the Ashley Anne Collection from Midas Jewelry
a continuous sweeping second hand. With the launch of Precisionist, We now offer engagement rings and matching bands in addition to
Bulova blends technology, design and style; utilizing the sweeping second our vast selection of wedding rings. This collection of bridal sets will
hand as a visual symbol for the movement’s extraordinary precision. The please even the most discerning bride-to-be. Each set is exclusively
technology is accurate to 10 seconds per year as compared to most other designed to fit the personality, style and taste of future brides. To see
quartz watches, which are accurate to fifteen seconds per month. For the full collection and our wedding bands, visit midasjewelryinc.ca.
more information, please contact: Mr. Steve Taylor, President, Bulova For more information, write 139 on the Free Info Card on page 80.
Watch Company Limited 416-751-7151. For more information, write
138 on the Free Info Card on page 80.

CJ.Dec_Image Fifth Ave.indd 1 12/15/10 12:37:46 PM

New You!
B y Bonnie Siegler
The red carpet sets the tone for 2011.
A Fendi a boutique opening hosted by Chloe

Sevigny in conjunction with LACMA at the
Fendi Beverly Center Boutique drew some
of Hollywood’s most stylish celebs. Kelly
Osbourne showed up wearing an Amrapali
Victorian rose-cut diamond collar necklace
($22,690) and an Amrapali white Bakelite
diamond ring ($3,330).
Eva Mendes attended the Environmental Media Awards at

Warner Bros. Studios in Burbank making a striking fashion
statement by stacking several Vahan 14k gold and sterling-
silver bangles adorned with diamonds ($4,500-$7,000).
22 CJ January/February 2011 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m Note: All prices in $US amounts unless otherwise stated.
022-023.CJ_StarWatch.indd 22 12/16/10 2:09:38 PM

starwatch
Katy Perry has been having a few busy months. Besides

her India wedding, she attended the MTV European Music
Awards in Madrid wearing Baccarat “rock” stud earrings in
ruby ($375) and several Le Vian 18k white gold bracelets
with 15 chocolate diamond balls ($12,097 each) Backstage,
Perry did a quick wardrobe change for her performance,
accessorizing her peacock dress with Tresor Dazzle earrings
in 18k yellow gold with tanzanite and diamonds ($1,900)
and a Baccarat Psychedelic 18k large yellow gold ring
in yellow scarabee (?) ($3,400). Moving to London
this month to promote her new fragrance, Perry
wore an M.C.L. by Matthew Campbell Laurenza
ornate multi-stone textured curved bangle
($1,410).
Diane Lane arrived in Neil Lane

jewels at the 2nd Annual Power of
Women Luncheon in Hollywood,
Emmanuelle Chriqui chose choosing the jeweller’s black and
to wear Bavna 18k gold and white diamond and platinum
silver pear earrings with earrings with 25 carats of diamonds
diamonds ($9,750) to the ($40,000).
Call of Duty Launch Party
held at the Barkar Hangar at
the Santa Monica Airport.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m January/February 2011 CJ 23
022-023.CJ_StarWatch.indd 23 12/16/10 2:10:19 PM

who’snews
Find out who is making headlines

in the jewellery industry.
Entrepreneur’s iPod Watch Idea
Given Life Through Internet
Designer Scott Wilson is launching his latest
product design, a set of multi-touch watch kits
that double as an iPod, in an unprecedented
way via an online funding platform known as
Kickstarter.com. Kickstarter is a new way to
finance creative ideas through the Internet;
it taps into a large network of “normal”
people to collectively fund a product or idea.
Kickstarter is powered by a unique all-or-
nothing funding method where projects must
be fully funded or no money changes hands.
The end goal, set by Wilson, was to raise
$15,000 USD in 30 days. At the time of print,
Remembering Mervyn with three weeks left, and more than $385,000
“Bing” Levinter USD pledged in just one week, Wilson’s
Bing Levinter passed away recently after a watch models have taken the top spot as the
long and valiant struggle with ailments that highest funded project in Kickstarter history.
had been his nemesis over the last few years. The amount of support and funds raised
He was a patient at Sunnybrook hospital in in such a short period of time could signal
Toronto for the past five years. Bing is survived a major paradigm shift in the way creative human rights, social and environmental
by his beloved wife Vickie, and his son Robert entrepreneurs will look to fund projects in the standards as established by the RJC’s
and daughter Marcie. Levinter was part of the future or a resource independent retailers who Certification System. The RJC Member
industry for the better part of his life, having have a brilliant idea, but little capital. “The Certification System is diligent for the quality
been involved in manufacturing of silver and response we have gotten from people pledging and breadth of its scope and standards as
silver-plated halloware with Lipman & Silver to this [idea] has been a truly empowering well as the integrity and transparency of its
Company, where he eventually took over the discovery,” said Wilson. “We are blown away developmental process. “The RJC is delighted
running of the company when his father-in- by the support. This type of funding platform to congratulate Raymond Bloch on becoming
law, Harry Lipman, passed away. Bing was a is a game-changer and just the beginning in its first certified diamond supplier. Many
staunch supporter of the industry and was shift ing more power back to the individual RJC Members have commenced the process
involved deeply with the Canadian Jewellers creative entrepreneur.” Currently, the TikTok towards certification and we look forward
Association. Bing was very proud of the fact model will consist of a silicone strap into to announcing their achievements in 2011
that he was awarded the President’s Award by which the nano snaps and the second model, and beyond,” says Michael Rae, RJC’s CEO.
the CJA for his years of support. Bing was a the LunaTik, is a wristwatch made of silicone A family owned business for 100 years, the
very keen member of the Canadian Jewellers straps with an aluminum base to hold the diamond company is an important stakeholder
24Karat Club and served as its president for nano. There are limited prototypes of the in the world diamond wholesale marketplace
the 1981-82 term. Even while a patient at watch kits being produced. Until funding with trusted, long term relationships with the
Sunnybrook, he managed to attend a number of officially closes, Wilson is taking input from world’s leading jewellery and watch brands
the Club’s events, and maintained his interest users who have funded the idea to improve as well as manufacturers. “Being in the
in this for as long as he could. His passing performance possibilities of the watch. industry for four generations, our family has
will leave a very large gap in both the CJA and always been concerned with ethical, social
24Karat Club. Mr. Levinter was a very proud Raymond Bloch Certified by the RJC and environmental improvements,” say CEO
veteran of the Canadian forces in the Second The Responsible Jewellery Council team Stephanie and Laurent Bloch. “It was
World War. Canadian Jeweller magazine, (RJC) has announced that the French immediately obvious to us that the RJC would
his colleagues and the industry extend their diamond wholesaler Raymond Bloch is not only carry our values but also quickly
deepest sympathies to his wife Vickie and his the first diamond supplier in the Council’s become a new global standard throughout the
children Robert and Marcie. - Ken Forbes membership to be certified against the ethical, entire supply chain.”[CJ]
024.CJ_WhosNews.indd 24 12/16/10 11:53:14 AM

INTRODUCING BULOVA PRECISIONIST
THE WORLD’S MOST ACCURATE WATCH
WITH A CONTINUOUSLY SWEEPING SECOND HAND
Most quartz watches are accurate to 15 seconds a month -

Bulova Precisionist is accurate to 10 seconds a year.
The key is Precisionist’s unique three-prong quartz crystal,

which produces a vibration frequency of 262.144 kilohertz (kHz),
eight times greater than the usual two-prong crystal and the
highest of any watch available today. And, the innovative design
of the Precisionist movement reduces the effects of temperature
variation without using a high maintenance thermo-regulating
integrated circuit.
The result is a watch that is extraordinarily precise, yet so

easy to operate.
CHAMPLAIN
COLLECTION
For details, write #113 on Free Info Page, page 80 www.bulova.com
CJ.Jan11_Bulova.indd 1 12/15/10 12:36:27 PM

news | trends | events
6-Month Complimentary Membership experience the benefits it brings in the form contact Erica D’Ambrosio at JBT by calling
to The Jewelers Board of Trade of credit monitoring services, customized 401-467-0055 ext. 3410 or email Erica at
The Canadian Jewellers Association has reporting, access to industry data, online [email protected].
introduced a new member benefit program functionality, 24/7 service, and managed by
to The Jewelers Board of Trade (JBT). JBT is a team of JBT staff dedicated to the Canadian Rio Tinto Commits to
the only credit reporting service dedicated market. Qualified member participants the Chinese Diamond Industry
specifically to the jewellery industry in the will receive the following: Instant credit Rio Tinto confirmed the important role
U.S. and Canada. A not-for-profit member- ratings/reports for over 70,000 U.S.-based China will play in the long term sales and
supported organization, JBT has provided and Canadian companies/individuals in the marketing strategy of its diamonds portfolio.
vital credit information and collections jewellery industry available online 24/7; 25 Speaking at the 2010 China Diamond
support to its members for over 125 Free Credit Reports; and more. To qualify, Conference in Shanghai, Mr Jean-Marc
years. This complimentary package to an CJA supply members must complete JBT Lieberherr, general manager for the sales
introductory JBT membership will allow CJA application forms as well as submit accounts and marketing of all diamonds from Rio
members to participate in JBT’s premium receivable aging and customer listing files Tinto’s mines, commented, “Diamonds
interchange information-sharing platform. upon application and each month during the have a small but important position in Rio
Participation will enable your company to introductory membership period. To apply, Tinto’s diverse portfolio and attract much
attention because of their growth potential.
We see China playing an important role in
that growth.” Rio Tinto recently launched a
strategic partnership with leading Chinese
retailer Chow Tai Fook to develop a fashion
jewellery category, separate to the existing
bridal market in China. Chow Tai Fook’s
superior expertise in the design, manufacture
and retailing of diamond jewellery in China,
along with Rio Tinto’s world-class diamond
productions, makes for a natural alliance.
Lieberherr highlighted the fact that China
has entered a fast growth stage that will
change the face of the diamond jewellery
market, “The emerging middle-class
demographic in China is an ideal entry point
for affordable diamond jewellery,” he said.
“Increasingly, Chinese consumers will be
seeking to differentiate themselves through
fashion and fashion jewellery, and this will
be the driver of future growth in retail
Toronto Designer Launches Necklace to diamond jewellery demand.”
Benefit Sarcoma Cancer Foundation of Canada
For the new year, Toronto-based jewellery designer Darlene Martin is donating 20 per U.S. Supreme Court Rejects
cent of the proceeds from a special limited-edition necklace series to the Sarcoma Cancer Tiffany’s eBay Challenge
Foundation of Canada, a national organization dedicated to supporting patients and their According to a report by the Dow Jones
families, while working with Canada’s leading research institutions in their efforts to Newswire, the U.S. Supreme Court has
eradicate Sarcoma cancers. Martin created the Tiny Dancer series with Swarovski elements decided, without comment, against a Tiffany
and other semi-precious stones specifically for the cause. “It is with great pride that we are & Co. lawsuit that cites eBay over the sale of
able to help Canadians deal with this disease through the sale of this jewellery series,” says counterfeit jewellery on the online auction
Martin. “The SCFCs Founder and Chair, Diana Arajs, helped us when we first launched the website. Tiffany alleged eBay is responsible
Bijouxbead brand, and now that we are an established company, it is time to give back.” for infringing the brand’s trademarks because
it facilitated the sale of counterfeit Tiffany
026-028.CJ_FTR.indd 26 12/16/10 11:55:01 AM

fortherecord
items. Two lower courts sided with eBay, launching high-quality, colourless diamonds will not undermine participating retailers.
saying the auctioneer couldn’t be held liable as part of its product portfolio. The Gemesis Diamond Company has also made
unless it had specific knowledge that particular privately-held international organization, advances with its fancy coloured stones,
items might be counterfeit. Tiffany noted headquartered in Sarasota, Fla., is now in full achieving a beautiful vivid yellow colour
a significant portion of the items found on production of colourless diamonds that it that is highly desired and recognized by the
eBay is counterfeit, alleging that hundreds of says equal the best quality mined diamonds. consumer. The new yellow stones will be
thousands of counterfeit silver SKUs have been Most diamonds in current inventory average available in significant carat weights on the
offered on the site. Tiffany participated in a approximately half-carats, however, the sizes e-commerce site.
program with eBay to remove auction listings of the colourless diamonds have exceeded
it deemed suspicious, but the company said one carat. The company is in its final stages of Birks and Gucci Preview
the program did not resolve eBay’s “massive developing its own line, designed especially “La Dolce Vita” in Toronto
counterfeiting problem.” for Gemesis lab-created diamonds. The brand Birks and Gucci Timepieces recently teamed
will also launch a new e-commerce web site in up for a cocktail event in Toronto to unveil
Gemesis Diamond Company to the coming months, combined with parallel new timepieces pieces and a special viewing of
Market Colourless Lab-Created sales through limited retailers who subscribe the photo exhibit “La Dolce Vita, 1950 – 1960:
Diamonds Direct to Consumers to the company program – including Stars and Celebrities in the Italian Fifties,”
Gemesis Diamond Company, a producer education, approach, and pricing philosophy. curated by Marco Panella and sponsored
of gem-quality lab-created diamonds, is The company says its own Internet pricing by Artix and by Cinecittà Luce. The exhibit
COLOUR CATALOGUE
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Hublot Opens Boca Raton Boutique DISPLAYS

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STE
M T HE S Y
to the Jewish Federation of South Palm Beach County to mark the occasion. Special guests
included top Hublot collectors such as Dr. Ken and. Lisa Rosen, Sanjiv Sharma, Sheri Sack, THE SYSTEM
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026-028.CJ_FTR.indd 27 12/16/10 2:16:55 PM

fortherecord
included a selection of vintage photographs commitment to beautiful design and quality more successful collaborations with Argyle
from the Luce Archives and magazines of the craftsmanship is a perfect fit with the rarity, Pink Diamonds.” [CJ]
time. The complete exhibit, which celebrates beauty and luxury of Argyle pink diamonds.”
these golden years of Italian cinema, was Firestone Diamond is a third generation
shown in Rome at the Mercati di Traiano diamond company specializing in the design Please note:
Museum in fall 2010. and manufacture of one-of-a-kind heirloom In the Last Word section of our November
jewellery pieces. Firestone has previously 2010 issue, we identified the St-Onge Fine
Argyle Pink Diamonds Announces acquired rare pink and blue diamonds Jewellery pendant as the Lanterne with the
New Authorized Partner in India from the Argyle mine, showcasing them in image of a different piece in the collection.
Rio Tinto’s Argyle Pink Diamonds business beautiful jewellery pieces. Most recently, the The image that should have run is below.
announced specialist diamond jewellery sale of Nirav Modi’s extraordinary US$3.56-
designer, manufacturer and luxury retailer million Golconda Lotus necklace launched
Nirav Modi from Firestone Diamond, as this unique designer into the world of
its partner in India for the signature pink jewellery. This stunning necklace comprised
diamonds from the Argyle Diamond Mine. an unprecedented collection of 34 rare
Firestone Diamond joins a select group of Argyle pink diamonds, linked together by
master craftsmen known as Authorized special diamond chains. According to Nirav
Partners and Select Ateliers who have been Modi, chairman of Firestone Diamond,
appointed to work with the pink diamonds. “The time is right for India to take its place
“We extend a very warm welcome to in the world of rare coloured diamonds.
Firestone Diamond as our partner in India,” This exclusive partnership provides an ideal
said Josephine Archer, business manager opportunity to enhance the demand for rare
for Argyle Pink Diamonds. “Nirav Modi’s pink diamonds in India. We look forward to
AGTA Gem Trading Platform Now Live

The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) has officially launched the AGTA GemeShare online coloured gemstone trading platform.
After more than two years in development and beta-testing, the AGTA GemeShare online marketplace (agtagemeshare.com) will offer a
wide selection of coloured gemstones from AGTA Member dealers. The site is free to use for all jewellery industry buyers and currently
boasts thousands of gemstone listings. “An ongoing concern of retail buyers and manufacturers in sourcing gemstones online is knowing
that the source is credible,” stated Douglas K. Hucker, AGTA CEO. “With the AGTA GemeShare platform, only AGTA Members can list
gemstones for sale, which means that retailers can be assured that they are buying from companies who adhere to a strict Code of Ethics
and disclosure.” All gemstones are accompanied by a photographic image along with the accurate colour of the gemstone, verified by the
seller using the GemeWizard colour analysis system. The website also offers retailers the opportunity to create a customized webpage
storefront that can be integrated with their current website. Retailers will be able to offer a huge virtual inventory of gemstones to their
clients over the web or in the store with pricing based on their desired markup levels.
026-028.CJ_FTR.indd 28 12/16/10 11:55:45 AM

Finished Jewellery & Loose Diamonds
Nova Diamonds Inc.
221 Victoria St. Lower Level
Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4
Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666
CJ.Jan11_Nova.indd 1 12/15/10 12:40:12 PM

Battle of the
Gold Rushes
Ontario’s history as a gold- and
silver-mining giant.
BY STAN SUDOL
030-032.CJ_Mining.indd 30 12/16/10 11:54:41 AM

miningfeature
T
he Yukon Klondike gold rush of 1896-1899 seems to take all
the glory in many accounts of past gold rushes, while Northern
Ontario’s four globally significant gold/silver discoveries in the
first half of the last century do not get the historical respect they deserve.
The initial Klondike discovery was in 1896, at a fish camp near the
junction of the Yukon and Klondike rivers. At the height of the rush,
Dawson Creek, the main staging town at the mouth of the Klondike
River, had a booming population of about 30,000, and was known as the
most cosmopolitan city west of Winnipeg and north of Vancouver. Due
to its isolation, all the claims had been staked by the time most people
finally arrived.
Fortunes were made and lost in Dawson Creek’s rip-roaring frontier

atmosphere. In total, about 12.5-million ounces of gold was produced
during this short-lived rush, which lasted for less than a decade.
Northern Ontario’s major gold rushes started with the Cobalt silver boom
of 1903. This major silver discovery was the result of the construction of
the Temiskaming and Northern Ontario Railway which, was funded by
the provincial government to help colonize the north. There were basically
three discoveries that started the silver rush. The first was by contractors
James H. McKinley and Ernest J. Darragh who were providing lumber
for the railroad. The second discovery came a few weeks later in mid-
September when blacksmith Fred LaRose allegedly threw a hammer at a
fox. The hammer missed the fox but broke off a chunk of rock to reveal a
vein of silver that eventually became a mine. Tom Hebert made the third
discovery that eventually became the Big Nip mine that yielded more
than 91-million ounces of silver over 40 years.
Cobalt’s enormous silver discoveries made headlines around the

world, and silver fever even hit New York’s Wall Street in 1906, when
unruly mobs of people trying to buy Cobalt mining stocks had to be
broken up. Cobalt has been often called “the cradle of Canada’s mining
industry.” It trained the prospecting mining capabilities of Canadians,
provided enormous capital financing, and set the stage for important
gold discoveries in the immediate region. The silver mines finally
ran out by the 1990s but the Cobalt camp had yielded a phenomenal
460-million ounces of the precious metal, far exceeding the value of the
gold produced at the Klondike.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2011 CJ 31
030-032.CJ_Mining.indd 31 12/16/10 1:33:46 PM

miningfeature
In 1909, about 100 kilometres north of Cobalt, near Porcupine Lake, out Hargreaves and held on to his claims, becoming a very wealthy man
prospector Harry Preston slipped on a rock and scraped off the moss in the process. In 1936, he founded The Globe and Mail newspaper.
covering. Underneath, he and his partners, including Jack Wilson,
discovered a ledge of quartz covered with gold. The site became the The Kirkland Lake gold rush attracted many characters, including
famous Dome Mine which is still producing to this day. News rapidly American-born Harry Oaks, whose claims became the Lakeshore mine,
spread and the next big discovery was made by Benny Hollinger, a former one of the richest in the world. He was mysteriously killed in the Bahamas
barber from a nearby town, and Alex Gillies, a professional prospector. in 1943. During the 1930s, the Kirkland Lake/Larder Lake area was one
Their claims were later developed into the world-class Hollinger mine by of the most prosperous in the country due to 22 producing gold mines.
entrepreneur Noah Timmins, who founded the city of the same name.
The Hollinger mine operated from 1910-1968, producing 19.3-million Historical gold production from this mining camp is about 38-million
ounces of gold, the country’s biggest historical producer. About the ounces, the second-highest in Canada. Kirkland Lake is currently
same time, Sandy McIntyre and Hans Butlner discovered what became experiencing another gold boom. A recent report stated that the town
the McIntyre Porcupine mines nearby. needs to build 600 new homes in the next six years, due to the 1,000 new
jobs in the mining sector.
By 1930, Canada had become the world’s second largest producer of
gold, with Ontario responsible for most of that output, all from the In the summer of 1925, gold was discovered near Red Lake, an isolated
north. The Porcupine camp has produced about 72-million ounces spot 110 miles northwest of the train station at Hudson, a few miles west
of gold over the past century. In addition, an enormous copper, zinc of Sioux Lookout. This event triggered the last great gold rush in North
and silver deposit was discovered near Timmins in 1963, which is still America. More than 3,000 people converged on Red Lake at the height of
in production. New gold deposits are still being found in Timmins the Gold Rush of 1926. By 2006, about 23-million ounces of gold had been
today, which is experiencing a booming economy, unaffected by the dug out of the rich greenstone belts of the Red Lake district. Goldcorp’s Red
recent recession. Lake Gold mine is Canada’s largest and lowest-cost-producing gold mine.
The next major gold discovery occurred at Kirkland Lake, north of Without a doubt, the enormous wealth dug out of the ground at Cobalt,
Cobalt. In 1911, prospectors William Wright and Ed Hargreaves Timmins, Kirkland Lake and Red Lake is disproportionately larger than
became separated while hunting for rabbits. Hargreaves fired his rifle the legendary Klondike gold fields. And except for Cobalt, Ontario’s gold
to attract Wright’s attention. While rushing through the bush towards mining centres are still in production, creating enormous wealth for the
the rifle shot, Wright stumbled across a quartz outcrop with gold. They provincial economy. [CJ]
staked their claims on the main ore-bearing fault of the Kirkland Lake
gold camp, which later became the nucleus of three large mines – the Stan Sudol is a Toronto-based communications consultant and executive speech writer.
Sylvanite, Wright-Hargreaves and Lakeshore. Wright quickly bought www.republicofmining.com
030-032.CJ_Mining.indd 32 12/16/10 1:34:32 PM

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CJ.Jan11_PH Design.indd 1 1 12/15/10
10-12-06
12:42:58
7:42 PM
In a Pickle
Jewellers treat soldered and heated objects with dilute acid solutions to remove oxides
produced from heating and soldering silver, gold and other alloys as well as glassy flux
residues. This process is called pickling.
By Charles Lewton-Brain
I
believe the term pickling comes from the chemical that jewellers to store, handle and mix up. It also wants to concentrate itself to a
once used to do the job: traditionally alum is used for making 49% solution, which means it evaporates water until it reaches this
pickles. Many jewellers today are not aware that they can use alum dangerously corrosive proportion. With the introduction of safety and
for cleaning oxides and flux off their soldered objects. (maybe litigation) pressures in the 1950s, jewellers began to turn to dry
salts, which dissociate in water to form steady, constant low dilutions
Here is what I think happened: jewellers once used alum (and salts) to of acid.
pickle with, then in the 19th century, mineral acids became cheaper
and more available, which along with the rise in industrialization The most common one used by jewellers has various brand names
and the increasing need for speed, caused sulfuric acid to become (sometimes called a “safety pickle”). It is normally sodium bisulfate,
the standard pickling solution. Sulfuric acid, however, is dangerous which is used in industry for pickling metals of all kinds (especially
034-036.CJ_Bench_RE.indd 34 12/16/10 2:52:23 PM

benchcolumn
steel), in tanning leather, in toilet bowl cleaners and, most importantly, an alum pickle without causing the copper plating reaction onto your
for jewellers. It is also used to reduce the pH of water in swimming work, familiar to those jewellers who have done this with a standard
pools or hot tubs. This most easily available source is called “swimming pickle. A fairly dilute solution is used for pickling, a small bottle of
pool acid” or “pH reducer,” and is found at your local hardware or alum to a whole crockpot of water.
grocery store. It is essentially the same material as dry Safety Pickle
and is mixed in the same manner, perhaps half a cup of the granules Alum also has a wonderful use: removing embedded drill bits that
to four litres (one gallon) of water. This is significantly cheaper than have broken off in work. It can be difficult to otherwise remove a drill
what you get from the jeweller’s supply store. An even larger user of bit end without damaging the piece. Make a concentrated solution of
this chemical is the cleaning industry, and great drums of the material alum, almost a saturated mixture or alum and water. Use a Pyrex® or
are apparently used by industrial cleaners for cleaning toilets – which similar non-metal pot for this. Then simmer the work in it and in about
has interesting implications in terms of disposal. The copper sulfate 20 minutes the drill bit turns to black dust and falls out.
formed during the pickling process (the blue colour) is not appropriate
to put into the waste water stream, as the copper sulfate kills aquatic Citric Acid
life. This is why copper sulfate is available from agricultural suppliers, Some jewellers use citric acid as a pickle. This is a powdered industrial
as it is used by farmers to kill off algae blooms in roadside ditches baking supply material which can also be found in Asian Indian grocery
and ponds. stores. It takes a fair bit of powder, a number of cups (I have heard 5-8
cups) to a crock pot of water to make a pickle. It works more slowly
After all these changes people forgot about using alum as a pickle. It than sodium bisulfate, and rumour has it that if you leave it alone,
works and is simple to use. cold, for a week or two, it can serve as a growth medium for interesting
brightly coloured molds. Phil Poirier of Taos, N. M., feels that citric
Alum acid pickle has the advantage of not adding sulfur compounds (and
Alum has an advantage over Safety Pickles. It does not appear to outgas hence producing sulfur dioxide gas when melted) to cast sprue buttons
as much. Tools placed near a Safety Pickle will rust, but tools next to an being cleaned for remelting. He says that he has reduced porosity in
alum pickle do not. As well, you can place steel tweezers or wire into cast re-used metals by using citric acid instead of sodium bisulfate.
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benchcolumn
“a powdered
Some jewellers use citric acid as a pickle. This is
industrial baking supply material which
can also be found in Asian Indian grocery stores.
”
Other pickles the drug store. This strips off copper flashing in about two minutes. If
Vinegar and salt makes a very good safe home pickle; about one cup you leave brass in the solution for longer, it turns an interesting yellow
vinegar to one teaspoon salt or more. An emergency pickle is to sprinkle colour and then etches the metal exposing the crystal structure. A
salt on a cut lemon and rub it over the metal to be pickled. I’ve even stronger version of this solution is used by metallurgists to etch crystals
tried ketchup and cola drinks with salt for this, with fair success. in order to examine them.
So what do I use on an everyday basis? Swimming pool acid (sodium The mixture may be returned to the pickle pot after use, as the peroxide
bisulfate) does me fine. I prefer to separate my chemical activity from breaks down to make water. Avoid using industrial-strength peroxide
the bench workspace and to set up a pickle area close to the sink and solutions for this process, as they can be quite dangerous.
rinse water. This restricts chemical residues to an easily wet-wiped area.
Pickle free fluxes
A covered crock pot works very well for containing a pickle. One must When one works in high-karat golds, then self pickling fluxes like
take care not to splash the acid around, and to keep the outside clean, Batterns and Pripps can be used, as the metal does not oxidize easily.
as the crock pot will tend to corrode if not cared for. Some goldsmiths In an 18k gold with such a flux, one simply needs to use hot water
who solder at their benches use a small electric coffee-cup warmer to to remove residues and then keep on working. Silver alloys and base
keep a Pyrex® beaker of pickle warm near at hand. For pickling odd metals, however, do not work well, as these thinner fluxes burn out
shapes, use a suitably shaped container, for instance. For long and tall and stop absorbing with 18k, 22k and above. Firescoff´® is a new anti-
objects, use a long and tall container such as a bottle to pickle in. oxidant that can work very well to protect metal when soldering and
heating, and if applied correctly onto the hot metal, can work like a
A pickle solution can last for months, replenished with water when self-pickling flux. Hot water and the ultrasonic can be used to remove
necessary, kept clean and so on. In a shared shop, I suggest caulking all its residues. [CJ]
seams of a crock pot with silicone, caulking the heat control fixed onto
the low setting and regularly wiping it down. This prevents boiling
the pickle dry accidentally on high (which can result in a choking, Pripps Flux recipe:
smoking chemical fire), and slows corrosion damage to the crock pot. • Borax (Sodium diborate) 30g
• Trisodium Phosphate (di-Sodium Hydrogen Phosphate)
Copper Flashing Removal Pickle (Na2HPO4) 30g (found at the supermarket/hardware store
If you accidentally get copper flashing on your metal from steel but read the label to make sure)
contamination in a pickle, or when heating brass or nickel silver, • Boric Acid 44g (Boric acid can be found in drug stores
chemical copper plating may be quickly stripped from the metal with but also as anti cockroach powder – read the label)
a specific pickle. Take a scoop full of pickle solution from the pickle • Distilled water to the 500ml mark
pot and mix it with an equal quantity of 3% hydrogen peroxide from

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038-043.CJ_CoverStory.indd 38 12/16/10 3:27:59 PM

coverstory
Dedicated to
the Bench
Custom design and collaboration with fellow artists
and local celebrities keeps 18Karat Goldsmiths
relevant and original.
B Y CAROL BESLER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEAN SANDERSON
Y
ou might say custom jewellers Dino and Massimo Giannetti of 18Karat Goldsmiths
in Toronto have the artisan’s touch in their blood. Before emigrating to Canada
from Rome in 1950, their father, Tullio, was being groomed for a career as an art
restorer for the Vatican, specifically in the area of al-stucco design. “This was hardly an in-
demand vocation in 1950s Toronto,” says Massimo. Nevertheless, after a few years working
in construction – like many emigrants to Canada in the 1950s – Tullio was able to explore
his other passion, jewellery making, and turn it into a profession.
Dino and Massimo Giannetti of

18Karat Goldsmiths in Toronto taken
in 2010; Polaroid image taken in 1979.

Tullio set out to learn the art of ornamental hand engraving, working location at Village By The Grange, on Dundas Street West in Toronto.
with Anson Forstner, a leading jewellery manufacturer of the day, The duo hired a top interior designer and an Italian fi ne cabinetmaker
and before long, he was doing goldsmith fi nishing for major jewellery to create a look that communicated the handmade, workshop ambience
companies, operating out of a workshop in his home. “I remember how that “expressed our vision of what a jewellery shop should look like,”
proud I was the fi rst time I saw his work on display in a shop in Niagara- says Massimo. “Centre stage is our workshop, where the performance
on-the-Lake,” says Massimo. In 1969, the Giannettis and their son of designing and creating each piece of jewellery is completely open to
Massimo, then 23, founded Dino’s Credit Jewellers, named after their view, surrounded by unique handmade showcases.”
second son, Dino, who at the age of 14, was already demonstrating his
talent as a master goldsmith. They bought the building that housed The brothers began to focus on rare and unusual gemstones as well
their store, and “ran our family business in a very family way,” says as original designs, all the while making an effort to keep the pieces
Massimo. “We had a kitchen in the back where customers, family and accessible, offering a wide range of pieces, from $20-$20,000. In keeping
friends would drop in for a snack, a glass of homemade wine, a chat, with the philosophy of remaining accessible and approachable, there is
maybe a game of cards, and then pick up a bobble on the way out. The no buzzer on the door.
local parish priest made it a regular part of his weekly walkabout. He
enjoyed the wine, and we never talked about religion.” “Doing custom work means our clients can take ownership of the fi nal
product,” says Dino. “Th is involvement attaches a sentiment to the
Ten years later, the name was changed to 18Karat Goldsmiths, and in item that I don’t think exists when selecting a ready-made item. What
1979, the business moved from Woodbridge to its present, street-front I believe attracts people to jewellery is the way it can exist as more

coverstory
than an accessory – it can become a relic or an heirloom, something

imbued with a history. Being involved in the creation of a jewellery
piece greatly adds to that story for our clients.”
This dedication to working closely with clients is sometimes taken

to the extreme. A few years ago, a customer requested a custom
engagement ring in time for Christmas Eve, less than two weeks away.
“Knowing that we sometimes work best under pressure, we accepted “noticed
In the last few years, we have
a sharp increase in the
the challenge, and created a beautiful diamond ring,” says Dino. The
ring was finished on time, but the customer called to say he would be number of people coming in who
unable to come in to pick it up. Dino therefore offered to deliver the
have viewed our gallery of custom
ring. After closing up shop on Christmas Eve, he headed north to the
small town where the client lives. An hour later, he found himself in work online and the incredible variety
the middle of a blizzard on a dark, rural road. Amidst heavy snow and
high winds, Dino’s car became stuck in the snow at the bottom of a
of work we have created
”
hill. Luckily, a couple who lived nearby spotted him in the distance,
and came out to help the stranded driver. When they arrived, Dino
recognized his customer, the one he was on his way to meet! After
realizing it was Dino, the customer spontaneously turned to his
girlfriend, got down on one knee, and proposed. After she accepted, he
got up, and they proceeded to help pull Dino’s car out of the ditch.
Malaphyre and
18k gold pendant

In keeping with 18Karat’s custom, handcrafted sensibility, the store coming in who have viewed our gallery of custom work online and
has recently begun to carry jewellery created by other goldsmiths, the incredible variety of work we have created,” says Dino. Events and
silversmiths and designers from across Canada, with a focus on competitions are another great means of marketing. The Giannettis
Toronto. Th is endeavor, along with marketing and promotions, is hold regular exhibitions in the store throughout the year, focusing
coordinated by the brothers’ trusted colleague, Vanessa Laurin, a visual predominately on up-and-coming designers. Th is involves an ongoing
artist and fashion designer with an eye for jewellery design. “When we partnership with George Brown College, whereby 18Karat features
began to introduce new work into the shop about two years ago, we some of the work of recent graduates and hosts juried jewellery arts
did so in order to offer our clients a greater variety of work and a wider shows.
range of price points, without sacrificing our commitment to quality,”
explains Laurin. “More and more people want to know where their The store’s largest event is a charity auction 18Karat is now hosting for
jewellery comes from, who made it, and, more importantly, why they the second year in a row. Last year’s auction, “Uniti,” brought together
made it and what it means to them. The advantage of carrying locally 13 jewellery designers who teamed up with celebrities to create pieces
produced artisan jewellery over big brand names is that people want to inspired by the themes of family and community. Gordon Pinsent, for
buy into the story of the work just as much, if not more than they want example, teamed up with designer Meghan Schnarr to create a pendant
to buy that piece of jewellery. Every piece in our shop is attached to the to commemorate his wife, who passed away recently. In a modern take
person who made it, and the philosophy behind the work they create.” on the cameo, the piece, a pendant, represents her silhouette, crafted
The designers’ work is carried on consignment. in silver, copper, jade and 18k gold. Elvis Stojko worked with Vanessa
Laurin to create an unusual pendant made of rose quartz – because
The majority of 18Karat’s client base is gained through referrals, but it symbolizes love – and onyx, in the celtic claddagh-ring style, with
many also contact the store after visiting the web site. “In the last stylized hands cradling and protecting a heart. Dina Pugliese, star of
few years, we have noticed a sharp increase in the number of people CityTV’s Breakfast Television, worked with Dino to create a heart-

coverstory
Custom earrings by
18Karat Goldsmiths
shaped pendant with a bale in the style of a door. A black jade was used As for inspiration, the Giannetti’s look to unorthodox sources.
to signify strength, and the door represents coming home to a safe Although they attend the Milan and Vicenza Fair in Italy, as well as
and secure place. The pieces were auctioned off at Waddington’s, with Toronto and New York JCK shows, they are also interested in attending
proceeds benefiting the Red Door Family Shelter. This year, 18Karat is shows such as the One of a Kind Show and Toronto’s Outdoor Art
hosting “Boldly,” a charity auction and design competition to benefit Show. “But most of our ideas come from discussions with our clients
the Assaulted Women’s Helpline. Boldly will present pieces created by – assessing what their needs and interests are,” says Dino. “It is also
a team of 10 designers, according to the theme of strength and courage. incredibly important to maintain relationships with other goldsmiths
The pieces will be judged by a panel of Toronto’s fashion elite, and then and artists within our community, and to network with shops similar
auctioned off during an evening event in April – with all the proceeds to ours. We like to meet artists who are in the same unique position as
going to the charity. we are – artisans who deal directly with the public – in order to keep a
pulse on what is going on and to stay relevant.”
“Our philosophy,” says Massimo, “is that only when a community is
strong can the individuals within it grow. Our family business is made It is not surprising, then, that the advice Massimo would give to
stronger when we work with other jewellers, others members of our someone just starting out in the business today would be: “Network,
industry, and the greater public, rather then viewing everyone and network, network. Not only is it important to foster a public image
everything as competition.” And how does that build business for the and a brand when launching a retail business, it is also important to
store? Massimo believes that people, “not only potential clients but also meet people within the industry who possess the skills and knowledge
the media, are more interested in what you are doing than what you that someone starting out may not possess. No one can be successful
are selling.” The Uniti auction was covered by the CBC and Breakfast without the support of others, and it is important to invest in those
Television – “we are still reaping the benefits,” he says. relationships.” [CJ]

D i a m o nd
w i n n ers
Stuller sterling-silver and
Adjustable
diamond
gemstone
necklace,
butterflkey
fleur-de-lis
withring from
y
diamonds. Quality diamonds in both medium- and high-end
Fufoo Fine Jewelry
for Girls. merchandise are the key to healthy diamond sales
say Canadian jewellers.
Stuller sterling-silver BY CAROL BESLER
and diamond scroll key
B
necklace, with diamonds.
ack-to-basics, micro-pavé and diamonds in silver are set to
be the strongest drivers in diamond jewellery sales in the
coming year, according to Canadian retailers, manufacturers
and wholesalers.
“So far it is a year of basics, says Brent Trepel, CEO of national chain
Ben Moss Jewellers. “Until we see a strong market recovery, I think
the focus will continue to be on basics and therefore a strong holiday
season for diamond solitaire jewellery. I think there is mixed reaction
in the marketplace towards diamond brands.” Mo Charania of
Jubilee Fine Jewellers in Ottawa concurs: “Diamond studs followed
by diamond bracelets are leading the way again. Basics seem to be the
operative word.”
The holiday season was expected to be strong, [Canadian Jeweller went

to press before the season was over] with bridal – especially princess cuts
and larger diamonds – leading the way in diamond jewellery. “I thought
for awhile that princess cuts were dying off, but the last four enquiries
we had were for approximately one-carat princess cuts,” says Greg Bird
Black and white diamond of Gregory’s Jewellers in Vernon, B.C. Bird also reports the good news
flower ring, in 18k gold, that “young people still want a large diamond or expensive ring,” though
by Nova Diamonds. he adds, “even though they have no idea how they will pay for it.” Ernie
Epp, of Independent Jewellers in Winnipeg, confirms, “our bridal sales

d
productfocus
“As formicro
diamond fashion jewellery trends, tennis bracelets,
pavé styles and black-and-white diamond
combinations are topping the charts.
”
are definitely featuring larger diamonds – I can't remember the last time Micro-pavé rings, with
we sold a quarter-carat diamond.” Michele Bankowski of Diamonds of large diamonds, from Tacori.
Detroit, in Humboldt, Sask., concurs. “We have been experiencing good
success with Bridal rings set with 0.75ct - 1.00ct centres,” she says. As for Canadian brands, they are still strong, but, for some, on the wane.
The main attraction to Canadian diamonds is their conflict-free status
Prototype programs are also emerging as a great way to maximize and, if they are ideals, the cut factor. “We've noticed that fewer and fewer
bridal sales, many of them comprised of CZ and base metals instead people have been asking for Canadian diamonds,” says Grandis. “But we
of diamonds and gold, helping retailers to keep inventory costs down. still stock a range of triple-excellent CanadaMarks.” Bird, of Gregory’s
Stuller, for example, recently introduced The Merchandising Solution, Jewellers, adds, “People want nice diamonds and want to be assured that
a program of highly finished prototypes that allows retailers to show the diamond they are buying is not a conflict diamond. Some also want
US$280,000 worth of inventory for an investment of only US$8,500. a Canadian because they are Canadian. But the next words out of their
The main focus of the program is bridal. Art Carved also has a new mouths after saying ‘Canadian diamond,’ are ‘Oh, aren't they a lot more
prototype program, which Bankowski says has garnered “very positive money?’ Too bad that is the impression of the consumer.”
response,” so far.
Marketing support, then, remains the key to a successful diamond
Stocking loose diamonds is another way to optimize diamond sales. “We brand. “Brands are generally successful, but this is due to the marketing
have been buying diamonds direct, primarily in Antwerp, for a number behind them – at the store level or in the media – or because they
of years now and it has really made a difference to our sales,” says Reg have a unique feature or product,” says Charania, who carries Lazare
Grandis of Grandis Jewellers in Petrolia, Ont. “In order to make the big Diamonds. “Brands do offer margin, and generally give the consumer
sales you have to commit to the inventory. We keep a loose inventory of some confidence and trust in what they are buying,” he adds.
several hundred diamonds all the way up to three carats, so we seldom
miss a sale. We tend to stock by price point, so we always have something As for diamond fashion jewellery trends, tennis bracelets, micro pavé
to offer. If someone is asking for a one-carat round, for instance, we can styles and black-and-white diamond combinations are topping the
show as many as 20 different stones. The one thing that I’m very strict charts. “We've not seen too much action on diamond bracelets in
on is stocking diamonds with good light performance, no matter what previous years,” says Epp, “So we are showing more this Christmas.
the price range.” Hopefully we are guessing right.” Bankowski and others believe micro
pavé, particularly with black and white diamonds, will lead the fashion
This attention to light performance has become an important category in the coming year. “Micro-pavé techniques are still in demand
consideration over the past decade, constituting the main added-value but there is a move to 0.01ct sizes seen in round cut shoulder diamonds,”
for diamond brands with superior cut. Grandis has done exceptionally says Michael Clarke, vice-president of finished jewellery for Stuller.
well with Firemark brand princess cuts, “purely because of their superior “Micro-pavé settings were previously holding diamonds much smaller
brilliance. They are also priced very well, and we are getting excellent than we see today – 200 per carat and 300 per carat were the standard,
markups.” Others, including Epp, have success with brands such as but today, we are seeing more of the 150 per carat to 200 per carat. The
Hearts-on-Fire, Scott Kay and Mark Schneider. setting is more reliable with the slight increase in size.”

productfocus
Diamond heart
pendant, by JSN.
Champagne and white

diamond flower ring in 18k
gold, by Nova Diamonds.
The Crown Setting engagement

ring from Scott Kay.
The Tiffany Lucida: branded

diamond cuts demonstrate
Michael Sapir of Nova Diamonds, Toronto, says large domed rings
added value.
surrounded by micro-pavé diamonds are a hot look. “We are getting a
lot of orders for rings with clusters of diamonds,” he says, “particularly
in floral motifs, and a lot of black-and-white combinations,” says Sapir.
“This has been a huge trend in Europe for the past three years, and has
come to Canada.” Sapir adds that combinations of champagne and
white diamonds are also growing in popularity, not just for rings but for
bracelets. “The tennis bracelet never fails,” he comments. Diamond Advertisers in this issue
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Ultimately, the notion of enduring quality remains high on the list Karat Imports PH Design
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Lega Jewellery Siffari
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“Why She Shops,” Bain reported that quality is a key driver, more Malo Creations Stuller
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am willing to pay more for clothing and accessories that will last more w: www.maloinc.ca w: www.stuller.com
than one season.” [CJ]

Mirage Creations Inc.
221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4
Finished Jewellery & Loose Diamonds Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677
Nova Diamonds Inc. www.miragecreations.com e-mail: [email protected]
221 Victoria St. Lower Level
Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4
Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666
CJ.Jan11_Mirage.indd 1 12/15/10 12:47:45 PM

diamonddirectory
Canadian Diamond Directory

A CCUDIAM INC. C ORONA JEWELLERY J UBILEE FINE JEWELLERS
55 Queen St E, Ste 708, Toronto, ON, 16 Ripley Ave., Toronto, ON, M6S 3N9, Canada 50 Rideau street, Ottawa, Ontario, K1N 9J7
M5C 1R6, Canada (416) 762-2222x5511 (613) 238-1886
(416) 367-0070 (416) 762-2445 (613) 238-7329
(416) 367-0071 Jon Phillips Mo Charania
Ajay Jariwala [email protected] [email protected]
[email protected] www.coronajewellery.com
J.S.N. J EWELLERY INC.
AMADENA LLC DIAMOND GALLERY 64 Jardin Drive, Ste.7, Concord, Ont., L4K 3P3,
576 5th Avenue, 12th Floor, New York, NY, 1735 Corydon Avenue, Winnipeg, Canada
10036, USA Manitoba, R3N 0K4 (905) 660-3277
(212) 382-1122 ext.223 Allan Malbranck Steve Reale
(212) 354-2886 [email protected] [email protected]
Deepak Sheth www.diamond-gallery.com www.canadianicediamonds.ca
[email protected]
D IAROUGH CANADA MOR BROTHERS DIAMONDS
A RCTIC FOX DIAMONDS NORTHAM DIAMONDS 2225 Sheppard Ave. East, Suite 1015, Toronto, Diamond Exchange, 1 Jabotinsky St., Maccabi
27 Queen St. E., Suite 1004, Toronto, ON, M5C ON, M2J 5C2, Canada Building, Suite 1131,
2M6, Canada (416) 490-8490*23 Ramat-Gan, 52520, Israel
(416) 861-1414 (416) 490-0454 Yohanan Mor
(416) 861-1581 Gail Goldberg 972-575-5362
Jonathan Jacobson [email protected] www.mor-brothers.com
[email protected]
www.northamdiamonds.com ESKIMO A RCTIC ICE MDL DIAMONDS VANDAN ASSOCIATES
55 Queen St. East, Suite 601, Toronto, ON, M5C 55 Queen St. East, Suite 407, Toronto, ON, M5C
C ANADIAN DIAMONDS BY COLUMBIA 2M6, Canada 1R6, Canada
L IBMAN & CO (416) 864-1392 (416) 499-5005*23
250 Carnarctic Drive, Downsview, ON, M3J 2P4, (416) 864-1010 (888) 297-1542
Canada George Mimar (416) 499-2334
(416) 661-2661*141 [email protected] Umesh Shah
(416) 667-8830 www.eskimodiamonds.com [email protected]
Howard Shanfield www.vandan.ca
[email protected] FLANDERS COLLECTION - TRUST MARK OF C ANADA
P OLE STAR DIAMONDS BOTH BY GEE N’ G EE Every effort has been made to publish accurate
THE CAPRICE B & S (CANADA) INC. I MPORTERS information and contact all companies
27 Queen St. East, Suite 804, Toronto, ON, M5C producing Canadian diamonds. If you would
736 Granville Street, Suite 400, Vancouver, BC,
like to be added to future listings, please contact
2M6, Canada V6Z 1G3, Canada
[email protected]
(416) 368-0440 (604) 684-1131
(416) 368-6659 (604) 684-6503
Adom A Knadjian Gill Bishouri
[email protected] [email protected]
www.groupbs.com; www.geengee.com
www.capricecanadiandiamonds.ca
H ALLMARK OF Q UALITY
CARAT SMART DIAMONDS REGAL IMPORTS LTD.
O’N EILL DIAMONDS INC. 650 West 41st Avenue, Suite 630, North Tower,
Unit 622 - 736 Granville Street, Vancouver, BC, Vancouver, BC, V5Z 2M9, Canada
V6Z 1G3, Canada (604) 263-2621
(604) 909-0818 (604) 263-4008
Eran Gini Melvin Moss, Trish Arato
www.caratsmart.ca www.regalimportsltd.com
www.hallmarkofquality.ca
048.CJ_Diamonds.indd 48 12/16/10 2:19:01 PM

COLLECTION
This information is confidential and may be legally privileged. It is intended solely for the client. Use of this information by anyone else is unauthorized. If you are not the inte
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HEAD OFFICE:
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CONTACT OUR AGENTS AT:

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CJ_BG_Name.indd 1 12/15/10 1:00:47 PM

Fancy Penny Preville: Necklaces
in 18k white gold with mix
of black and colorless melee from
“The Black Diamond Collection.”
Experts predict a bright future for sales

of natural coloured diamond jewellery.
Waldman Diamonds
B Y LORRAINE DEPASQUE Complete: From the “Arctic
Sun Collection”: engagement
ring, featuring fancy yellow
C
an yellow, pink and grey put jewellers in the black this year? radiant diamond center
When it comes to fancy coloured diamond jewellery, industry stones accented with round
colorless stones.
insiders are very optimistic. Robert May, executive director of
the Natural Color Diamond Association (NCDIA), points to three recent
simultaneous occurrences as significant: record-breaking coloured-
diamond auction prices worldwide; a major marketing initiative by a
highly visible brand; and consistent increases in consumer purchasing.
The take-away? If you haven’t already committed to the category, 2011
may be the year to do it. And if you have, investing in it more heavily
should be a key consideration in your business plan.
Activity at Auction
Certainly not to be trivialized, rare natural coloured diamonds
consistently broke auction records throughout 2009 and 2010. One Christian Tse: Pear-shaped
of the most newsworthy was in November, when a rare, emerald- pink diamond engagement
cut 24.78-carat diamond set in a platinum ring sold at Sotheby’s in ring in platinum.
Geneva for US$46.16-million – much higher than its pre-sale estimate
of US$27.38-million.
Still, will superlative sales at auction on rare coloured diamonds

necessarily impact mainstream consumer purchasing of more accessible
stones? Toronto-based jewellery designer Reena Ahluwalia says, “Most
050-053.CJ_ColouredDiamonds.indd 50 12/16/10 4:13:51 PM

coloureddiamonds
definitely. In the last 18 months, with the highly publicized auctions,

I have seen a tremendous interest in coloured diamond jewellery in
my own business.” Ahluwalia’s customers are typically luxury. As are
consumers who shop at Oster Jewelers in Denver, Colo., whose owner,
Melissa Oster, says, “Auctions have been positively affecting purchasing,
especially auctions like the Graff Pink diamond” (the name its
purchaser, renowned London jeweller and supplier Laurence Graff, gave
the diamond he bought in November in Geneva for $46.16 million.) Sethi Couture: “Enchanted
Garden” chandelier earrings
Going forward, such unexpected events at auction will likely also affect mix various hues of natural color
pricing on coloured diamonds, Oster believes. “I advise my customers diamonds with colorless.
to buy them now at the current prices before they go up,” she says.
“Yesterday, when I showed one of my customers an incredible yellow
diamond, I explained that to her.”
Whether Oster’s customer buys the precious yellow gem now or later,
she and her husband and co-owner, Jeremy Oster, will continue to invest
in coloured diamonds, which have potentially greater margins than
colourless, and which have consistently doubled in value every ten years
since the 1970s.
A Sign of the Times: NCDIA’S “Product Sourcing Network”

Speaking of the ’70s, what a difference three decades can make. Today, as
opposed to back then, locating natural coloured diamonds and getting
proper prices is much easier.
While margins are significantly greater than those in colourless

diamonds, some retailers may be hesitant to jump in, fearful of the lack
of a price list (as exists in colourless) or fear of their unknown availability.
“That’s why we introduced The Product Sourcing Network as a member
service,” says May. “It takes the mysticism out of pricing and availability.”
NCDIA launched the service about 18 months ago –coincidentally
around the same time natural coloured diamond jewellery started to
break auction records and show intensified retail sales.
“The Product Sourcing Network gives you, as a retailer, a direct source,”

says May. “We can find out within 24 hours of a request, for example,
where you can get a particular diamond that your customer wants. We
send out a retailer request – but we don’t say which retailer is asking.
In response to our request, we’ll get information on what’s available, Todd Reed: Necklace in 18k yellow gold, hand-forged
then you can comfortably tell your customer, for example, “Okay—here and fabricated, with rough multi-hued diamonds
are seven diamonds we’ve located for you. It really shows your special (221.58ctw) and brilliant-cut diamonds (6.96 ctw).
customer service.”
050-053.CJ_ColouredDiamonds.indd 51 12/20/10 9:59:08 AM

Be Prepared with Pinks
“For us, yellow and pink are both popular,” says Ahluwalia, “but you
should see how consumers love the pinks, especially when done in a
By Toronto-based designer
unique collection. Ahluwalia designs exclusive rings for her Stars of
Reena Ahluwalia for Diaco Inc:
Platinum/18k gold ring, featuring Africa by Royal Asscher Collection, featuring floating pink diamonds
cushion-cut 4-carat yellow encased in a fluid-fi lled sapphire dome.
diamond center stone and 2.21
carats colorless diamonds. Arizona retailer Chris Boillot, co-owner of Michael’s Creative Jewellery
in Phoenix and Scottsdale, says, “When showing a customer coloured
diamonds, I show them pinks fi rst.” Why? “Because almost every store
has yellow or black diamonds. So I try to show them something right
away that maybe they’ve never seen before. I also like to show them
some greens, even though they can get pricy – because they’re so rare
and beautiful.”
The Return of “Yellow Fever”

May says the NCDIA Product Sourcing Network will research any
diamond colour a member wants information on – “and we get requests
on all of them,” he adds. Of late, he’s been seeing many requests for
yellow diamonds to be used as centre stones.
While yellow diamond engagement ring centres were all the rage not
even six years ago, especially in major metropolitan cities like New
York and Chicago, the demand is already back – quicker than the
usual cyclical nature of things in jewellery. “Yes, there’s defi nitely a
resurgence,” says Melissa Oster. “In the last six months, we’ve seen
much more interest again. About 2-1/2 years ago, it stopped, but
now it’s back. Just today, I sold a three-carat patented Starburst cut,
a modified radiant, for an engagement ring in brushed platinum. It’s
elegant, sophisticated, not flashy.”
While the recovering economy is certainly helping natural coloured

diamond jewellery sales, one major marketing initiative has definitely
done its part, as well, says May. Last year, the world-renowned Tiffany &
Co. began heavily promoting its new Tiffany Yellow Diamond jewellery
Neda Benham: 18k rose gold ring with 3.80-carat emerald-
collection, touting the stone’s rarity and developing a complete collection
shaped, rough-cut pink diamond; accented with .88tcw rounds;
of fashion and bridal. May says that when Tiffany did that, consumer chosen as The 2011 Spectrum Award winner of “Manufacturing
interest definitely picked up, and he believes that, as a result, he’s seen a Honors,” entered in Bridal Wear category; photo courtesy of
lot of smaller companies springing up in yellow diamond bridal. AGTA; photography by Robert and Orasa Weldon.

coloureddiamonds
Katie Diamond: “Layla” necklace in

14k gold with black diamond slice;
Ashleigh Branstetter:
18k white gold earrings,
featuring mossy-green
diamond slices (11.23 tcw),
white diamond slices (2.32
ctcw) and chalcedony
briolettes (40.61tcw).
Black, White — and Grey, Too

Nevertheless, Boillot admits that the more affordable and available black
diamond pieces are very popular. “For the past three years, jewellery
in the black-and-white diamond combination has been selling great.
Women like the contrast of the black and white melee looks. Right-hand
rings are the number-one buy, followed by pendants, usually in a $1,000
to $2,000 range for self-purchase.”
Black/white melee jewellery seems to be somewhere at the top of a Rose Cuts, Roughs, and Slices
coloured diamond fashion trend list, but large black diamond centres In addition to the varied shades of natural coloured diamonds that
are starting to show strength, too. For Mystique Fine Jewellery Designs are capturing consumer fancy, so, too, are the various non-traditional
in Alexandria, Virginia, sales of engagement rings with checkerboard- cuts: particularly rose cuts, slices, and roughs. Why now, as opposed
cut black and grey diamonds are what her customers get excited over. to a decade earlier? “Over the past ten years or so, many techniques
“Especially younger brides-to-be who don’t want to see their special ring have been developed for cutting, especially for the smaller natural color
on everyone else.” diamonds,” says NCDIA’s May. “Before lasers, rose cuts and slices were
impossible to cut. Also, with the new polishing techniques, the stones
“The whole black/white/grey look has been trending in fashion," won’t shatter.” He adds that there is demand for coloured diamond
says Helena Krodel of the Jewelry Information Center. “But black melee now, he says, “and designers, excited by the newness, are doing
and white together is not just trend – it’s timeless, too.” Subsequent more playful things with them.”
to its popularity, many contemporary designers are responding with
interesting looks using these more neutral coloured diamonds. In Of course, at the end of the day, consumers are excited by the newness.
the American Gem Trade Association’s annual Spectrum Awards As Melissa Oster sees it, “As they slowly emerge from the difficult
for 2011, a palladium cuff by Todd Reed with an aquamarine centre, economy, we’re seeing that they are clearly becoming braver. Part of the
sprinkled with 6.90 carats of grey diamonds, won “Best in Show.” new reality is that they no longer want to invest in mass-oriented, mass-
Adam Graham, marketing director of AGTA, says, “The piece really produced jewellery. And when they choose natural coloured diamond
impressed our judges, who felt that, going forward, from a fashion pieces, that’s a good first step in assuring they’ll get more special, more
standpoint, everything about the piece shows important trends and one-of-a-kind. And it’s our responsibility as retailers to be prepared to
will ultimately have vast mainstream appeal.” meet that demand.” [CJ]

The Golden Touch Midas Jewelry is about a lot
more than just a band of gold.
B y Donna Jean Mac Kinnnon
T
he most important event in every lady’s life is the day she decides Victor Petrovski describes Midas (named for the King of Greek
to get married, according to wedding band manufacturer Victor mythology, who turned everything he touched to gold) as a family
Petrovski. “Brides always want their rings immediately, so we can’t business. The company has seven factory employees, including a stone-
be late. We’re always on deadline with an order,” says Petrovski, president setter, and two more workers at a downtown Toronto distribution and
and co-owner of Midas Jewelry. sales office. He jokes he’s the janitor and makes the coffee.
Midas manufactures thousands of wedding bands annually, and each one The Petrovski brothers started the company in Toronto in 1988. Neither
is made to order. Everything is done in-house, starting with the gold bars. owner had a background in the jewellery industry. They learned the
From there, Midas mixes its own alloys and makes the raw tubing that is business, on their own, the hard and expensive way, according to Victor
later milled and produced into bands. Midas’s original designs are created Petrovski. The Petrovskis were initially attracted to the field because it is
mainly by Tom Petrovski, co-owner of Midas. “clean” and they wanted to be involved in something creative that gave
pleasure. In 1995, when commercial rents shot up in Toronto, Midas’s
“Ideas just come to me in the middle of the night – like a writer who jots manufacturing arm moved to Mississauga. Since then, the company
down notes,” he says. “Several companies mimic my designs, something I has occupied a 4,000-square-foot factory, outfitted with over $1-million
find flattering,” says Tom. worth of heavy equipment.
054-056.CJ_Company.indd 54 12/16/10 2:59:07 PM

companyprofile
“decided
With changing trends in the jewellery industry, the Petrovskis
to concentrate on the wedding band market – a niche that
has served them well. Midas is a now the number-one wedding
band wholesaler in Canada.
”
Before entering the Canadian market, Midas shipped only to the U.S. heavy machinery since the early 1990s,” Petrovski says. Because Midas
– New York and Los Angeles. When they set up shop, over 20 years ago, is in the wedding band business, the company buys a lot of gold. It
the Canadian dollar was low. Therefore, it was economical for American requires 1,000 grams of gold to manufacture 500 grams of finished
retailers to buy from a Canadian source. When the Petrovskis launched product – a loss of 50 per cent.
Midas, they manufactured a wide range of jewellery, including bracelets.
With changing trends in the jewellery industry, the Petrovskis decided to “So now we are part owners in a company that refines gold. We send
concentrate on the wedding band market – a niche that has served them the scrap back to them and this decreases our loss. This is a saving we
well. Midas is a now the number-one wedding band wholesaler in Canada. can pass on to the customer,” Victor says.
“Everyone needs a wedding band – even if it’s made of steel – no matter Midas also invested in an automated machine that monitors
what country or religion,” Victor Petrovski says. and analyses gold quality and content in the rings the company
manufactures.
The Petrovskis believe their success is due to their cutting-edge
production methods and investment in research, product development As far as competition goes, Victor is not impressed with his competitors’
and computerized machinery. All these factors have added up to end product. He believes that many people order blanks from a
superior products, according to Petrovski. Midas’s computerized set-up manufacturer and then put their own trademark on them. “We’re
is specifically geared to making wedding bands. For example, at Midas, the primary source from start to finish, so we have quality control at
gold tubing is made by a computerized machine. This is an entirely each step. This is a big plus. Also, we are owners and operate our own
different process than the traditional lost wax method. The machine- machinery, so our rings do not go through three or four outside people.
cast tubing is very malleable and porosity-free, while wax-casting results At each step of the manufacturing process, we check again and again to
in porous imperfections that prevent gold from shining as brilliantly ensure a high-quality product. In fact, we live quality day and night.”
as it could. The metal that comes off Midas’s assembly line is already
shiny before the stones are set, according to Petrovski. He adds during Because Midas specializes in the bridal sector, demographically,
the computerized process, white gold doesn’t crack when stretched, as it deals with younger adults. The young brides-to-be like to email
sometimes happens during the lost wax method. pictures of what they want in a wedding ring. Although designs vary,
from region-to-region, 98 per cent of Midas customers want a white
“There’s not a dozen of these machines in Canada. We have focused on gold band (14, 18 or 19-karat), set with diamonds.

companyprofile
Both in Canada and the U.S., solitaire engagement rings are out. The catalogs, mailers, advertising and on its web site. Business also comes
current fashion is for a narrow band with a centre diamond and small from referrals. The company’s catalog, its main marketing tool, features
stones around it, and more diamonds running along a white gold shank, 650 bands, but in reality, Midas has over 1,000 different designs to
according to Victor. choose from.
Midas makes thousands of rings a year and receives no more than ten “We don’t warehouse any stock and we don’t have salesmen, so these are
orders for a sapphire in any given year. other savings that allow us to offer customers a better price,” Victor says.
“We tried pink gold. Maybe a dozen sold, along with a few yellow gold When custom orders are complete, they are shipped or picked up at the
rings to people in rural areas,” Victor says. “Brides are traditional and Toronto office at 27 Queen St. E. in Toronto, where there are samples
conservative. They want what everyone else has.” on display for the trade. As for customer service, Midas guarantees
delivery within two weeks, everywhere including L.A., New York,
For the record, Midas ships 50 per cent of its output to the U.S., where Miami and Detroit.
Victor says men will wear a diamond. “U.S. customers tend to like more
bling and big flashy stones than Canadians.” “We always provide quick service because we have to keep our brides
happy,” Victor says.
The Petrovskis have noted that brooches, bracelets and big necklaces
are no longer big sellers. Young women are content with a pair of stud The Petrovskis, who describe themselves as “hands-on” managers,
earrings, a watch and maybe a simple tennis bracelet. This means they actually go out and visit customers, and Victor prides himself in being
have more money to spend on the most important jewellery in their available on his mobile phone any time of day.
lives: their engagement and wedding rings.
Tom Petrovski offers some sales advice for Canadian retailers. “In
“Today it’s the bridal market that keeps the industry going,” says Victor, Canada, many jewellery stores concentrate on engagement rings and
who laughs when asked if he thinks cameos will ever come back into forget about the wedding bands. Jewellers could increase their bridal
fashion. Recently Midas added 10k white gold bands to their assortment. business by selling two additional rings instead of only an engagement
“We didn’t make 10k, but gold has doubled in price in the past five years, ring,” he says.
so we decided to manufacture 10k rings. It’s an economical reality that
many people, especially in the U.S., don’t have the money they used to The Petrovskis also believe each merchant should work on establishing
have for luxuries,” Victor says. long-term customers, so these clients will send their friends and children
back to his store when they want something special.
Midas is making a white metal alloy that is suitable for people with a
nickel allergy. The company uses palladium, an extremely white precious In January, Midas launched a new website (midasjewelryinc.ca), which
metal that is non-allergenic. (Palladium is often used for dental alloys.) allows the wholesale customer to view thousands of products. The site
Victor explains that white gold bands have nickel and everyone has some will feature a computer program that instantly generates an online
degree of intolerance to nickel; some have a serious allergy to it. Midas, price, for a ring (based on the price of gold), while the retailer stands at
makes a 14k alloy with palladium, as well as 18k and 19k alloys. Midas his counter with a customer. The new site also enables consumers to log
also works with 95 per cent palladium. At this level, the metal is so soft, on and see 30 or 40 ring designs.
it requires a special hardener.
“We’re not cutting out the retailer. The site directs customers to their
The Petrovskis rarely go to trade shows. Midas woos customers with nearest jeweller,” Victor says. [CJ]

“Learning is a treasure which
accompanies its owner everywhere.”
-An c i e n t ch i n e se Pro v e rb
Providing Jewellers
With the Foundation
to Succeed
For more than 23 years, Jewellers vigilance
canada has served as a source of support and
education for jewellers throughout canada.
A non-profit overseen by leading industry

professionals, we’ve made it our mission
to provide our members with the education
needed to prevent crime, serve as a key
resource for government agencies, and
set industry standards that aid in building
consumer confidence in the jewellery
products they buy.
Sign up now at
www.jewellerycrimecanada.ca
or call 1-800-636-9536
Jewellers Vigilance Canada

An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the canadian jewellery industry.
crime Prevention • resource Protection • sAFety AwAreness
cjJuneJuly10_JVC_Ad.indd 1 1
JEWVIG May Ad 042710F.indd 12/15/10
4/27/10 12:49:23 PM
3:44:16 PM
Hunt
Trésor “Soie” necklace
On the
in 18k white gold.
Puja Bordia is passionate for Tresor.

BY BONNIE SIEGLER
T
resor is a perfume, a wine and also a jewellery collection that
symbolizes a fresh and contemporary approach to opulent
luxuries. Puja Bordia, the creative spirit behind Tresor jewellery,
was born in the Pink city of Jaipur, India. Her family served as jewellers
to the royal family of India’s Jaipur kingdom for 18 generations.
Bordia began her creative endeavors in fashion and design, receiving

her Bachelor in Fine Arts degree in fashion design from the prestigious
Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. She was awarded Best
Debut Designer in 2001. Upon graduation, Bordia pursued fashion
design, working for some of America’s most recognized fashion houses,
including Kenneth Cole, Bill Blass, Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. Puja Bordia.
Within this circle of fashion, Bordia was constantly being complimented
on her handmade jewellery. Ultimately, she left her work to learn more
about the gems and jewellery she so loved. Eventually she earned her Trésor "Logo" cuff in 18k yellow
Graduate Degree from the Gemological Institute of America, where she gold with diamonds.
gained a deep knowledge of diamond grading, gemstones and welding.
She has since traveled the world, attending jewellery shows in Milan,
Hong Kong, Las Vegas, New York and other locales, seeking the most
exquisite gems for the Tresor Collection. Making her home in New
Jersey with her husband and four-year old son, Puja speaks to Canadian
Jeweller exclusively about the Tresor collections, now numbering seven
different groups.
CJ: I understand you were making simple jewellery designs as a very

young child. Can you remember your first creation and the inspiration
behind it?
058-061.CJ_Designer.indd 58 12/16/10 2:51:31 PM

designerprofile
“We are planning to do JCK Toronto this year,

where we’ll be bringing the brand in front of
thousands of Canadian retailers.”
Trésor “Dazzle” ring in

18k yellow gold with
tanzanite and diamond.
Trésor “Dazzle” bracelet in

18k yellow gold with
tanzanite and diamonds.
PB: I was about seven years old when I designed my very first turquoise CJ: You are sold at Gallery Gemma in Alton, Ont., Do you plan on
ball ring. I told my dad what I wanted, and how I wanted it and then expanding your Canadian business in the coming years?
got my very first piece made. I loved and enjoyed that ring a lot. Stone
colours and different shapes have always been my inspiration. PB: Yes, we are planning to expand and branch out in the Canadian
market. We are planning to do JCK Toronto this year, where we’ll be
CJ: How do you think your extensive fashion background has helped bringing the brand in front of thousands of Canadian retailers. I don’t
you further your jewellery design career? think there is a major difference between Canadian consumers and
the rest of the world, as long as you are providing a good brand. At the
PB: Fashion and jewellery go hand in hand. Fashion dictates what moment, we have a high-end Canadian retailer who has a couple of retail
colours will be popular. Having the knowledge of all the upcoming locations across Canada interested in the line. We are looking forward
fashion forecasts really helps me picking my colours and stones to closing that deal.
for my next collection. I think designing fashion and designing
jewellery only compliment each other. Jewellery is like icing on the CJ: Will you be showcasing a different collection for Canadian
fashion cake. retailers?
CJ: Working for such famous designers, including Lauren, which is a PB: We will be launching the Uomo Collection of men’s cufflinks
more conservative line, and Kenneth Cole, a sophisticated, chic designer, line in mid 2011. I noticed that Canadians do prefer more of a softer
how would you say each one inspired your future designs, and how have colour palette with diamond pieces and of course, simple and dainty
you integrated each into your collections? pendants. I’m definitely looking forward to making our big move to
Canadian markets.
PB: Yes, all the designers I have worked with had different design
aesthetics and I learned there is a huge clientele for all kinds of styles. CJ: Do you like to work in gold or silver, or both?
I have incorporated my experience by making various collections
that are all classic, yet chic and contemporary at the same time, PB: I love working in both metals, but I must agree that I am more
giving the wearer the option from everyday luxury to one-of-a-kind partial to 18k gold. I just simply love the gold, its aura and the different
couture pieces. colours it comes in these days. It’s simply universal.

designerprofile
“Being a 19th generation

jeweller, the
passion of colourful gems
and jewellery runs
in my veins.”
Trésor “Fin” earrings
in 18k yellow gold with
watermelon tourmaline.
Trésor “Interchangeable” earring

with tsavorite pave top and
labradorite briolette in 18k gold.
CJ: You are partial to using colourful gemstones. Which ones do you our interchangeable tsavorite and turquoise earrings to The Artist’s
prefer, and what do you think the qualities of each represent in order to Museum Happening in Los Angeles.
make your designs unique?
CJ: How do you bring your rich heritage in jewellery making into your
PB: I love colourful gemstones. Multicolour tourmaline, morganite and unique designs?
aquamarine are particular favorites. Our Dazzle Collection has some
gorgeous one-of-a-kind couture pieces in multicolour tourmaline. Our PB: Being a 19th generation jeweller, the passion of colourful gems
favorite and best seller is multicolour tourmaline bracelets and cuffs. These and jewellery runs in my veins. I have a great eye to choose just the
are the key pieces that made us stand out in front of many high-end key finest quality gemstones for my various collections. I travel across the
retailers. I just love the soft colours, luminosity and scintillating beauty. world with my dad to source the finest quality rough, unique and fine
gemstones which are the key part of my creations.
CJ: What is the feedback you are receiving from the places that carry
your designs and from the general public? CJ: You have been with the Tresor collection for two years. How have you
seen jewellery trends evolve and disappear within this short period of time?
PB: We are getting extremely positive responses from all our retailers
and their customers, both to our 18k as well as silver line. I believe PB: Yes, trends do come and go but there are a few trends that are classic
designing beautiful jewellery is just the beginning; the most exciting and stay forever. Big, bold, colourful statement pieces, layered and bib
part is receiving the positive compliments from our customers. necklaces, huge cocktail rings, bug cuffs, jewellery in mixed metals,
personalized jewellery are all the few trends for this season. Long station
CJ: Usually, when accessories or fashion are seen on celebrities, the line necklaces, big chandelier earrings, blackened sterling silver jewellery are
becomes more popular instantly. Have any celebrities worn your pieces? some of the trends that are making their way out.
If so, which ones?
CJ: Why did you put the name “Tresor” to your designs?
PB: Recently Katy Perry wore our Tanzanite and diamond stud earrings
at the MTV Europe Music Awards at La Caja, Magica, in Spain, and also PB: Tresor means something precious. The pieces are more than just
at the launch of her perfume in New York. Also Rose McGowan wore pieces of jewellery; they are an ensemble of art and imagination. [CJ]

Excellence In Design_NEW:Layout 1 11/24/10 4:04 PM Page 1
The Annual E XCELLENCE iN
design
Award Ceremony & Reception
To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contact
Olivier Felicio at [email protected] or call 416-203-7900 X 6107.
For complete details on how to enter your designs, contact

Melanie Seth at [email protected] or 416-203-7900 X 6114.
Entry deadline is June 3rd, 2011, 5 p.m.

Blue
Ribbons
Winners of the 2011 AGTA
Spectrum Awards.
Compiled By L ihn P ham
I
t’s that time of year again. The American Gem Trade Association
celebrated a remarkable 27 years of the Spectrum Awards last fall in
New York. Judges for the 2011 competition included a style editor of
Elite Traveler Magazine; Tanya Dukes, co-owner of Greenwich Jewelers;
Jennifer Gandia, owner of Lehrer Designs; Glenn Lehrer, owner of
Mallary Marks Ltd.; and owner of Rotenier Ltd., Robin Rotenier. Take a
peek at the winners in each category.
Best of Show
Also the Business/
Day Wear winner
Todd Reed, Todd Reed, Inc.

Palladium cuff bracelet featuring a 22.40 ct.
Aquamarine accented with grey diamonds
(6.90 ctw.) and white diamonds (2.20 ctw.).
062-065.CJ_AGTA.indd 62 12/16/10 2:55:42 PM

spectrumawards
1st Place
Fashion Forward
Classical
Samuel Getz, Samuel Getz Designs
Platinum and 18k yellow gold necklace
featuring yellow sapphires (68.77 ctw.), blue
sapphires (24.34 ctw.), red spinels (24.20
ctw.) and diamonds (22.38 ctw.).
Gregore Morin, Gregore Joailliers

18k white and yellow gold earrings featuring
lemon chrysoprase (22.0 ctw.) accented with
garnets (2.38 ctw.).
1st Place Men's Wear

Mark Lauer, Mark Michael Designs
18k yellow gold cufflinks featuring jasper agate
and lapis lazuli composite accented with 2mm
spessartite garnets and sapphires.
062-065.CJ_AGTA.indd 63 12/16/10 1:49:33 PM

Best Use 1st Place
of Colour Evening Wear
Cynthia Renee Zava, Cynthia Renee, Inc.
Martin Key, Martin Key Co.
Palladium necklace featuring a suite
22k yellow gold "Frame" ring featuring a 1.50 ct.
of green tourmalines (75.89 ctw.).
blue tourmaline accented with four Mexican fire
opal baguettes (1.82 ctw.)
Best Use of Platinum

& Colour
Judy Evans, Omi Gems, Inc.

Platinum “Princess of Ratnapura” bracelet featuring nine
round sapphires (14.0 ctw.) and round diamonds (8.48 ctw.).
062-065.CJ_AGTA.indd 64 12/16/10 2:42:34 PM

spectrumawards
Editor’s Choice
Katey Brunini, K. Brunini Jewels
18k rose gold and silver ring featuring white
opal accented with blue sapphires (3.26 ctw.),
diamonds (0.13 ctw.) and rubies (0.06 ctw.).
Best Use of Pearls

Llyn L. Strelau, Jewels by Design
Sculpture titled “Who Are You” featuring two-tone
gold and silver with freshwater baroque pearls, 1st Place
South Sea keshi pearls, akoya seed pearls,
demantoid garnets (0.25 ctw.), 0.20 ct. ruby and Bridal Wear
cognac diamonds (0.03ctw.) on a crystal quartz
base (242 ctw.).
Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems, Inc.

Platinum and 18k yellow gold ring featuring
a 5.55 ct. oval tsavorite garnet accented
with fancy yellow diamonds (.71 ctw.).
062-065.CJ_AGTA.indd 65 12/16/10 1:51:26 PM

The HST Update
For small businesses: So far, so good.
By Chris Davey
S
taying on top of issues that impact Canadian small business comply with the new tax and were worried about its perceived negative
owners is in Intuit Canada’s DNA. We not only endeavour to business consequences, such as inducing customer price sensitivity or
understand the variety of pain-points facing entrepreneurs, but driving customers away altogether.
we are committed to providing tools and knowledge that address those
issues to the benefit of small business owners. A case in point is the Four months later, and with tax season drawing closer, Intuit teamed
Harmonized Sales Tax (HST). Long before it became a top-of-mind with the Certified General Accountants of Ontario (CGA Ontario) to
issue, Intuit began watching HST and how it affected the lifeblood of get a read on whether entrepreneurs were flourishing or floundering.
the Canadian economy: small business owners. The results confirmed what we’ve always known: small business owners
are resilient and resourceful. Our survey revealed that 90 per cent of
Twice this year, Intuit polled small business owners on how they were those polled are confident in their ability to keep business transactions
coping with the tax. In late June, just days before the HST deadline, we compliant with HST, which represents nearly a 40 per cent leap from
learned that a startling 54 per cent of respondents did not feel ready to late June.
066-067.CJ_Finance.indd 66 12/16/10 2:57:07 PM

financefeature
Small business owners are highly adaptable, using all the tools and such as CGA Ontario and the Canadian Federation of Independent
resources at their disposal to get the job done. In fact, of those who Business (CFIB) that provide additional support. Earlier this year, the
were prepared on or before the HST deadline, 67 per cent said they used CFIB produced a checklist to help small business owners maintain
financial management software, such as QuickBooks, and more than financial health of their company through the HST transition. It
half (55 percent) said they conferred with an accounting professional included everything from considering how HST will affect cash flow
for assistance. All of these tactics combined seem to have contributed and pointers on training staff on HST compliancy. Similarly, CGA
to a general state of preparedness, not to mention a strong degree Ontario offers a number of resources to help address business issues.
of confidence.
Managing Finances
What else contributed to this transition to preparedness? Time and Small business owners work long hours, and the prospect of spending
government publications appear to have played a big role in helping even more time managing the books and wondering if they’re accurate
many get over the hump. More than one-third (34 per cent) said they is not why people choose to start a small business. With the right tools
spent one to three months getting everything in order, and 39 per cent and advice, businesses can save time and money (HST is no exception),
consulted government or business publications for information on while concentrating on doing more of what they love. Filing with HST
how to properly make the transition. could prove to be easier than you think. [CJ]
Concerns Mount As Tax Deadlines Approach To locate a CGA, businesses can reference CGA Ontario’s
Results of the recent joint survey show that while some concerns have accountant referral service at: www.cga-ontario.org
subsided, new anxieties about accurately filing year-end taxes have Additional HST resources include:
cropped up. Indeed, 40 per cent of respondents said they were very or • CGA Ontario, HST information booklet:
somewhat concerned about filing incorrectly and facing fines, which is http://www.cga-ontario.org/assets/file/HST.pdf.
to say that owners are confident in managing the HST transition, but • Ontario Chamber of Commerce and Smart Taxation Alliance:
filing taxes under this new regime for the first time is causing some www.taxharmonization.on.ca.
trepidation. Understandably so, since failing to collect the proper • Ontario Ministry of Revenue: http://www.rev.gov.on.ca/en/.
amount of HST can put entrepreneurs on the hook for the difference. • Ontario HST Information line: 1-800-337-7222
• Canada Revenue Agency: 1-800-959-5525
So, What To Do Now? • CFIB HST Checklist:
It is important for small business owners to know that tools and http://www.cfib-fcei.ca/cfib-documents/DIN0739.pdf
resources are available to help with financial management. While
Intuit has always maintained that when it comes to HST, we’ve got Chris Davey is a senior marketing manager in Intuit Canada’s Accounting
the backs of small businesses owners, there are other organizations Professionals Division.
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066-067.CJ_Finance.indd 67 12/16/10 2:20:30 PM

Get Together B y John Lamont, director of Crime Prevention, JVC
068-069.CJ_JVC.indd 68 12/16/10 3:58:56 PM

jvccolumn
JVC’s mandate is to educate industry on crime prevention. We are now competitive, but not when it comes to crime prevention. We should all
entering the second decade of JVC’s Crime Prevention Program. One of our be members of the same team.
biggest frustrations in the past 10 years is convincing YOU that crime can
happen to YOU! John Lamont has been our director of Crime Prevention There are many situations when criminal activity is committed by
from the very beginning. As you will read, he shares in this frustration. opportunity thieves. These are incidents that take place when a thief
- Phyllis Richard, executive director, JVC sees an opportunity such as when a ring is left carelessly on a showcase,
and he takes advantage of that opportunity by grabbing the ring and
In Burlington, Ont., a jewellery vendor was recently beaten as he left his running. However, the vast majority of the bigger crimes are well
motel room, and his line of merchandise was stolen. Was he followed planned, as indicated above by the York Regional Police. Jewellers are
and watched prior to this robbery? No doubt. watched (cased) before the criminal strikes.
In Vancouver, B.C., a jewellery retailer was robbed by four armed men. Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) has found there has been a great deal
Shots were fired inside the store and again outside the mall. Did the of success in preventing theft and in the apprehension of criminals by
robbers case other jewellers before picking on this particular store? NETWORKING: the sharing of information and suspicious activity.
No doubt. JVC has set up a large network of members
throughout Canada, which has been very
If you are a jewellery retailer, manufacturer,
wholesaler or even a repair house, you are being “ Jewellery retailers are being
targeted daily by criminals with
successful in spreading criminal information, but
in order to develop a closer relationship with local
watched every day you are open for business and police, it is also important to have a network of
sometimes even when you are closed. A large the intent to commit snatch-and- local jewellers. It is important that the local police
number of the people watching you have criminal grab and and break-and-enter are part of the network.
intentions. If you feel this only happens to other
people, you are naive. It can happen to anyone, robberies. What can jewellers do Recently, the local police contacted JVC and
anywhere. to protect themselves?
” provided a picture of two criminals who had
targeted a local jeweller and stolen a large, very
Recently, the York Regional Police conducted a large valuable ring. At the request of the police, JVC
investigation on an organized criminal gang that was targeting jewellery distributed the pictures to its network. Almost immediately, jewellers
suppliers. One of the detectives says police conducted surveillance on a throughout the area started reporting that these men had been in their
well-organized gang on a daily basis, and followed these criminals into locations. Within a day of the alert, the police received a call from a
the downtown Toronto area where these individuals spent several hours local jeweller who told police these two men had just been in his store.
every day for months, watching suppliers come and go from an office As a result of receiving this information from the JVC network, they
building. This building contains many jewellery supply businesses. were not only very cautious in dealing with these two men, but also
obtained the license number of their car, which they turned over to
These criminals also followed the suppliers while they visited many police. This information resulted in the arrest of these two men and to
customers throughout the city. York Regional Police subsequently the identification of a major jewellery fencing ring. This networking not
arrested members of this group. only prevented losses but resulted in arrests.
Within months of the arrests, another group struck at a similar office Local area networks are very strong and well-supported south of the
building in the city and pepper-sprayed a supplier before stealing his border. Jewelers Security Alliance in the U.S., along with Jewelers
line of merchandise. That case is still under investigation, but with Mutual Insurance, has produced a booklet on setting up a local area
Police budgets being cut and the increase in crime, police resources are network. JVC will work to assist jewellers in Canada to set up their own
stretched to the limit. local networks. If you are in any area of the jewellery business, it is very
important that you belong to a network, which can help you protect
Jewellery retailers are being targeted daily by criminals with the intent to your staff and assets. Contact JVC today and obtain information and
commit snatch-and-grab and and break-and-enter robberies. What can assistance on setting up your own local area network.
jewellers do to protect themselves? One of the most important things
a jeweller should have is insurance. The jewellery industry can be very Knowledge can provide power and protection. IT’S UP TO YOU. [CJ}
068-069.CJ_JVC.indd 69 12/16/10 2:15:05 PM

What’s
in a
Name?
How branding creates cachet –
and a premium price.
B y Duncan Parker
T
The Tiffany “Blue Box”
he branding of the world is under way; we see countries and is just as much a part of the
cities hiring marketers to help develop brands for things that we brand as the jewellery.
don’t usually think of as being a brand. The brands that are Gaga
or Bieber have, I’m sure, been given serious consideration. The brand of with a bag from a notable jeweller (everyone will exclaim that here is a
Toronto, Vancouver, London or Montreal is real and is likely set out in connected and sensitive man, buying something of beauty for a loved
planning documents. one). Sadly, this outward packaging is often concealed due to fear of
theft, fear of discovery of a surprise gift, but the brand is important to
The name of an item is held in our memories, and its visual identity is the buyer and the recipient.
maintained to the market. Just as young Mr. Bieber will have difficulty
shedding his hairstyle, even if he wants to, and Gaga must keep How, then, does the brand convey itself once the box is opened, and the
developing ever more interesting personas, it is the identity of each jewel is being worn? The wearer is still very proud and pleased to have
brand to have a certain image. a beautiful jewel, but does it say “I found this at…”, or “ This is a design
by…”. Some jewellers are great at showcasing their particular style or
In the jewellery world, the identity of a brand has been under discussion designs, or the work of a particular designer.
for years. How is a brand built for a thing so small as a ring or earrings,
or even a diamond? The watch industry has been successful. A Rolex can Many jewellers feature their designers on their web sites, and the work
be spotted from across a crowded room. of those designers will be given prominent space in showcases. The
designer becomes a brand within a brand. Elsa Peretti is synonymous
The packaging for jewellery is a very important platform for conveying with Tiffany, and Peretti designs are distinctive enough to be identified
brand identity. Who can miss the distinctive blue box of Tiffany or by a casual observer. Some designers are the brands themselves; JAR, of
the red box of Cartier? Most men are proud to walk down the street Paris, has such distinctive style that there is little mistaking his work.
070-071.CJ_FaceValue.indd 70 12/16/10 2:38:46 PM

facevalue
“How, isthen, does the brand convey itself once the box
opened, and the jewel is being worn?
”
The new direction is to create a jewellery brand by including the name The jewel was mounted on a board that was actually signed by this
on its surface. Big names in jewellery have started placing the name on respected leader. The autograph of an elderly and renowned leader was
the outside as a label. Bulgari is a name we often see on the outside of only one of the brands associated with the jewel. The item was also
jewellery, but we are increasingly seeing names like Tiffany, Cartier, signed by the internationally-known designer, and was donated to an
Fred, and other major names integrated as part of the outward visible international foundation bearing the name of another international
design of the jewellery. leader. Three brands in one item!
Fashion and accessory design houses — companies that have excelled in A well-marketed brand captivates the imagination of the consumer. If
marketing their non-jewellery brands — are embarking on the journey you are competing purely for price, with no brand differentiation, there
of jewellery marketing. They are coming to jewellery from the outside, is one place for you in the industry. If you have a brand, it’s your job to
and come with no preconceived notions of how to market these items. make the buyers want it. There is no competing with brand; ideally, no
Montblanc is known for pens, Louis Vuitton is known for travel; they one else should have that brand in your market.
are known worldwide, and almost everyone would recognize their
logos and names. They already make things that we carry around all Cartier is in the process of taking over the distribution of its brand and
day, why not a ring or bracelet, too? removing it from most licensed vendors. This creates a stronger brand
value; you can only get it from one place, making it harder to get and
The jewellery industry doesn’t price goods the same way as the fashion therefore more valuable in the mind of the consumer.
industry. I recently appraised a Louis Vuitton-branded diamond
ring. The only real way to appraise a recognizable, signed item is to DeBeers used to market diamonds around the world. When was the last
contact the producer, and ask what the price would be for another. I time you saw one of their general “Diamonds Are Forever” ads? DeBeers
called the office of the company, and the store where it was sold, and now focuses on its own brand, and lets every other diamond brand do
it was interesting to find that this ring, with a sizable (over two-carat) its own marketing.
diamond, was sold at a price that was consistent for every ring of that
model all around the world. The price of a specific Vuitton purse In this market, it is clear that we all need to differentiate our businesses
is a price, and Vuitton rings are priced the same way. There was no from the next. Developing a brand allows us to do this.
dickering about the diamond weight, a few points up or down was of
no consequence, the clarity and colour were of a minimum grade, but As consumers, we all want to feel special and that, when we shop, we have
outside of that, the price was not affected by a clarity or colour grade. purchased something unique. Part of the brand’s cachet is the ability to
The ring was simply a price. This also applies to other jewellers too, of build this sense of the exceptional, something distinct from the usual.
course, but not often with major diamonds. Part of this relates the goods, but an important part is the presentation.
Packaging, brochures, atmosphere, ambience, are all part of the brand.
Watches are similarly priced. An identifiable Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Personality is also part of the brand. Many brands have a face. Most were
Chanel or Montblanc item that proclaims its name is serious branding, started by someone: a founder. This may be the individual who is most
with a clearly established price and a known quality. If you want to buy closely associated with the idea, the design, the product, the adventure
it, there’s a price. of discovery or the transaction at hand.
A little while ago, I was asked to value an item designed and made Consumers will feel attached to a brand because of a personal connection
by a European goldsmith and bearing a signature of a major world they develop; they have become part of a select community, and can
leader. The designer/goldsmith was able to tell me what the cost to purchase with the confidence that they made the right decision to buy
reproduce the item would have been, but we did have some difficulty something and to work with a brand. This affiliation will bring them
establishing what the value and reproducibility of a world leader’s back again and again. The successful brand is strong, and encompasses
autograph would be. the whole product as a complete package. [CJ]
070-071.CJ_FaceValue.indd 71 12/16/10 2:17:19 PM

John de Jong Celebrates 15 Years
November 30, 2010.
P hotography by Patrick Jandak
Top to bottom, left to right: John de Jong, designer of JdJ Jewellery + Natalie Castillo,
JdJ Jewellery; Madeleine Pollard, JdJ Jewellery + Ann de Jong (John’s mother); a model
wears the new collection; the venue at the Gardiner Museum.
072-73.CJ_Industry Buzz.indd 72 12/16/10 11:44:31 AM

industrybuzz
Iconic jeweller, retailer and designer (and former CJ cover feature) John de Jong
celebrated his 15-year career with a lavish unveiling of his newest collection at the
Gardiner Museum in Toronto. He also collaborated with Canadian fashion designer
David Dixon – who is also celebrating the same milestone in his business – for an
informal runway presentation consisting of models circling the room wearing Dixon’s
creations and jewels from de Jong’s anniversary line. From all of us at Canadian Jeweller,
congratulations to JdJ Jewellery and here’s to another 15 years!
Top to bottom, left to right: Matthew Meisner, graphic designer, Town Shoes + Crissi
Giamos, director of PR, Town Shoes + Philip Sparks, fashion designer + Andrew
Sardone, writer; Suzanne Cohon, principal, ASC PR + J. Patrick Gibson, principal
- jpg design, + Cawthra Burns, VP, marketing and brand development - CCI
Entertainmnt; Andrea Bolley, Artist.
072-73.CJ_Industry Buzz.indd 73 12/16/10 11:45:35 AM

showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]
or Karolann Cassman 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, [email protected]
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00
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www.fsenterprise.com 888.699.8947
1059Findco_DZ 1 3/16/10 1:49:00 PM
072-079.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd 74 12/16/10 1:31:25 PM

3/4/09 1:41 PM Page 1
showcase
Luxury Care Since 1895

www.hagertycanada.ca
pure beauty The Jewellers Choice

has a name... For over 100 years, Hagerty
has carried on a tradition
of excellence.
Today, Hagerty is a world
Exclusively available in Canada through
leader in the care of precious
J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS LTD. metals and the popular choice
Vancouver, B.C. among Canadian Jewellers.
1-800-663-1458
Hagerty Distributors
Online inventory
H&W Perrin Burney Giftware
www.jwdiamonds.ca 416-422-4600 416-736-9990
Reliable Watch / Jean Michel Prestige Pak Inc. Habsons Jewellery Supply
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T: 416.955.9415 Toll Free: 800.216.0899 F: 416.955.9621
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Web:www.refinegold.ca E-mail: [email protected]
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H & W PERRIN Co. Ltd

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PAGE GET FREE INFORMATION! on any product advertised in this issue
sectionhead
080 SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…
2. Use this quick

1. See product you 3. Write the 4. Mail or fax us at 5. Receive free info
BY FAX want info on
reference list
number(s) on 1-888-849-0155 direct from as
below to find its
OR MAIL free info number the attached free or 416-703-6392 many advertisers
(it’s also on the ad) info card as you like
CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write #

Siffari 2 101 Nova/Mirage 47 120
Stuller 3 102 Malo 49 121
Midas Jewelry 4-5 103 JVC 57 122
JVC (Diamond Code) 6 104 Smokecloak 43 123
Gee N’ Gee 7 105 Noble Gift 81 124
Karat Imports 8 106 Pandora 83 125
Metalsmiths Sterling 9 107 Mirage 84 126
Jewellers Mutual 11 108 Metalsmiths Sterling 16 130
Crown Ring 13 109 GIA 16 131
GIA 15 110 Nova Diamonds 16 132
Best Bargains 17 111 Stuller 18 133
O’Neil Diamonds 19 112 Crown Ring 18 134
Bulova 21 113 PH Design 18 135
Image Fifth Ave 25 114 Pandora 20 136
Rousseau 27 115 Image Fifth Ave 20 137
Nova 29 116 Bulova 20 138
PH Design 33 117 Midas Jewelry 20 139
Smart Jewelry Show 35 118
Lega Jewellery 37 119
FREE
Info Card & Subscription
To receive free information you must print clearly and fill out form completely.
 Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine  No, don’t send
STEP 1 STEP 2 To qualify, check circles: Selling area of your store
 under 1,000 sq.ft.  1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.
Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________ Which category best describes your  3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft.  over 5,000 sq.ft.
business classification?
Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________  Education
Approximate annual sales volume
 under $500,000
 Retailer
Company Name: ___________________________________________________________  Manufacturer
 $500,000 - $1 million
 $1 million - $5 million
 Wholesaler
Address: _________________________________________________________________  Importer
 Designer
City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________  over $20 million
 Services (repair, appraisals, etc.)
 Other: ________________________________ Categories you personally manage
Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________
 Retailer  Designer
Number of employees at your location
Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________  1-3  4-8  9-12  over 13  Gemologist  Supplier
 Manufacturer
Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________ Number of locations: ______________________  Other _________________________________
STEP 3 Reserved exclusively for retailers

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2011
WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR
EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE Example
DETAILED INFORMATION ON
USE QUICK REFERENCE LIST AT TOP OF PAGE

101
STEP 4
Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8
080.CJ_FaxBack.indd 80 12/16/10 3:16:17 PM

Noble Tools ad 12-2010 13/12/2010 15:37 Page 1
CJ.Jan11.Noble.indd 1 12/15/10 12:53:20 PM

lastword
defines reinvention
A merican Rock Singer H enry Rollins said :
“ I believe that one oneself by .
yourself stone”
To not be like your parents. To not be like your friends.
To be . To cut yourself out of .
The Concord C1 Big Date Radar clocks in the new year by redefining the way we tell time. The multi-level dial is like a city-scape, with elevated hour markers, recessed small-
seconds track and a textured runway-style inner bezel. A perlé-finished inner dial and raised hands complete the 3D look. This ultra-modern time-scape is priced at $8,900.
082.CJ_LastWord.indd 82 12/16/10 11:32:32 AM

YOUR COMBINATION OF MOMENTS IS A
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CJ_Pandora_Feb2011.indd 1 12/7/2010 2:12:42 PM
CJ.Jan11_Pandora.indd 1 12/15/10 12:54:44 PM

PRM215
PRM294
BKR251
PR774EM
Mirage Creations Inc.

221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4
Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677
www.miragecreations.com e-mail: [email protected]
CJ.Jan11_Mirage.indd 1 12/15/10 12:56:31 PM

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J A N U A RY / F E B R U A RY 2 0 1 1

for the business of retailing jewellery

Branding: reign supreme

The HST Update Dino and Massimo Giannetti of

001.CJ_Cover.indd 2 12/16/10 3:37:07 PM

W e’re celebrating our seventieth successful year.

And you’ve rewarded us with success.

The Siffari family thanks you, our valued customers,

as we continue our tradition of quality, integrity and dedication.

Canada’s leading ring and

CJ_Jan11_Siffari.indd 1 12/15/10 11:08:48 AM

And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.

styles, as well as unique selling tools like our comprehensive prototype

solutions, call 800-877-7777, or visit us at stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.

For Details, write #102 on Free Info Page, page 80

CJ_Stuller.indd 1 12/15/10 11:11:43 AM

CJ.Jan11_Midas.indd 2 12/15/10 11:14:02 AM

New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back Programs

CJ.Jan11_Midas.indd 3 12/15/10 11:14:23 AM

CJ.Jan11_Gee&Gee.indd 1 12/15/10 11:29:24 AM

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | [email protected]

CONTRIBUTORS Chris Davey, Lorraine DePasque, Martin Irving,

Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING Sales

Karolann Cassman ADVERTISING Sales

CIRCULATION PUBLICATION PARTNERS

Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106

Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507

Check our Website for

Monthly Specials! email: [email protected] telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 12/16/10 11:28:53 AM

14.48 ct blue topaz

now partnering with

9.25 ctw blue topaz

OPPORTUNITY FOR SALES PROFESSIONALS

For Details, write #107 on Free Info Page, page 80

CJ.Jan11_Metalsmiths.indd 1 12/15/10 11:37:54 AM

48 Canadian Diamond Directory

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 10 12/20/10 9:58:17 AM

PERSONAL JEWELRY INSURANCE

CJ_JewelersMutual.indd 1 12/15/10 11:39:02 AM

34 Bench Feature 72 Industry Buzz

54 Company Profile 74 Showcase

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 12 12/16/10 11:30:16 AM

CJ_CrownRing.indd 1 12/15/10 11:41:11 AM

The Giannettis of 18Karat Goldsmiths are one such family.

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CARLSBAD NEW YORK LONDON ANTWERP FLORENCE GABORONE JOHANNESBURG

GIA_LAB_CJA0610.indd 1 6/9/10 8:47 AM

GIA Reports and Grading Systems

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CJ.Jan_BestBargains.indd 1 12/15/10 12:07:05 PM

New Bridal Styles from Stuller

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O’Neill Diamonds Inc.

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IN PURSUIT OF THE ULTIMATE ACCURACY IN TIMEKEEPING,

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CJ.Dec_Image Fifth Ave.indd 1 12/15/10 12:37:46 PM

A Fendi a boutique opening hosted by Chloe