The document discusses the process of lasting in shoe making. Lasting involves shaping a flat upper material into the 3D form of a human foot using a last. It describes the different types of lasts used and the traditional and modern materials used to make lasts. The key steps of lasting include assembling components like toe puffs and stiffeners, attaching the upper to the insole, shaping it to the last using hand pulls, and heat setting to maintain the shape. Quality control tests and different construction methods to attach the sole are also summarized.
The document discusses the process of lasting in shoe making. Lasting involves shaping a flat upper material into the 3D form of a human foot using a last. It describes the different types of lasts used and the traditional and modern materials used to make lasts. The key steps of lasting include assembling components like toe puffs and stiffeners, attaching the upper to the insole, shaping it to the last using hand pulls, and heat setting to maintain the shape. Quality control tests and different construction methods to attach the sole are also summarized.
The document discusses the process of lasting in shoe making. Lasting involves shaping a flat upper material into the 3D form of a human foot using a last. It describes the different types of lasts used and the traditional and modern materials used to make lasts. The key steps of lasting include assembling components like toe puffs and stiffeners, attaching the upper to the insole, shaping it to the last using hand pulls, and heat setting to maintain the shape. Quality control tests and different construction methods to attach the sole are also summarized.
The document discusses the process of lasting in shoe making. Lasting involves shaping a flat upper material into the 3D form of a human foot using a last. It describes the different types of lasts used and the traditional and modern materials used to make lasts. The key steps of lasting include assembling components like toe puffs and stiffeners, attaching the upper to the insole, shaping it to the last using hand pulls, and heat setting to maintain the shape. Quality control tests and different construction methods to attach the sole are also summarized.
Download as PPT, PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
Download as ppt, pdf, or txt
You are on page 1/ 40
INTRODUCTION
Lasting is a major operation of shoe making
process. It changes a flat upper to a 3-dimensional shape. This operation is further divided into 3 parts :
Lasting
Assembly
Lasting
Bottoming
LAST
Replica of human foot.
A foot model with almost same dimensions and shape as that of foot. Some extra material may be added to suit the current style. E.g. - Pointed toe
TYPES OF LAST SOLID BLOCK LAST STANDARD HINGED LAST SLIDE-O-MATIC LAST SCOOP LAST
TRADITIONAL LAST Made of hardwoods. Used to swell or shrink acc. to temperature. Shoe was difficult to delast. Once distorted cannot be used again. Handmade without distinction for left and right.
MODERN LAST Made of plastics. Durable with respect to the temperature. Waxy finish, shoe can be easily delasted. 100% recyclable high density plastic. Clearly distinguished left and right foot last.
LASTING The process of stretching upper over the last and securing it to the insole with the help of adhesive is called lasting.
LASTING
DIRECT ATTACHMENT Stuck-on construction Moulded construction
INDIRECT ATTACHMENT Goodyear welted Stitched down
TYPES OF LASTING LASTING UP LASTING DOWN FORCE LASTING STRING LASTING
COMPONENTS
1. 2. 3. 4.
They play a major role in the proper
lasting of shoe. Components include: Grinderies Adhesives Toe puffs Counter stiffeners.
METHODS OF LASTING
BY GRINDERIES
BY ADHESIVE
BY STRING
Grinderies -Tacks , nails and
staples
ADHESIVES
Pressure sensitive - neoprene
Hot melt adhesive - polyamide Heat activated adhesive - polyurethane
TOE PUFFS AND STIFFNERS
A stiff material used to give shape to the forepart and
back part of the shoe. Inserted between lining and upper. Retains the shape of the last even after delasting. May be flat or moulded. Can be solvent based or thermoplastic. Enhance the appearance of the shoe.
HAND LASTING PULLS
12 basic pulls to contour upper to the last. Also known as drafting. Done with the help of 13mm and 8 mm tacks.
Lasting principles Topline should be reasonably tight and snappy. Outer quarter should be 2-3mm below the height of the inside quarter. Back height should be proper. Upper should be centrally aligned. No wrinkles on the forepart or back part should be visible.
FAULTS
TOOLS
TOOLS
CONSTRUCTIONS Some specific operations done in order to attach the sole to the lasted upper. May be simple sticking or use of some immediate components like welt,etc.
CONSTRUCTIONS
CEMENTED STUCK ON
STITCHED SAN CRISPINO GOODYEAR WELTED
MACKAY MOCCASIN
MOULDED DIP DVP
CONSTRUCTIONS
INSOLE ATTACHING Properly moulded insole is attached to the bottom of last, by the mean of tacks or latex. Insole should be so placed that it comes in level with last bottom ,just under the featheredge.
UPPER PREPARATION Insole attachment Placing of toe puff Placing of counter stiffener Pasting of lining to the upper, leaving no wrinkles or air pockets open. Stitching of toe puff along with lining +upper. (machine lasting)
SCOURING Removes the grain surface of the upper revealing the flesh portion, for adhesive penetration. Removes the excess leather from forepart and back part. Also done to shape the heels. Abrasives are used for scouring.
TYPES OF ABRASIVES
Aluminium oxide Reddish-brown
Silicon carbide Black
GROUPS OF ABRASIVES
Course grit No. 24 60)
Leaves a rough finish. Pleats in toe lasting
Medium grit No. 80 - 120)
Leaves a rough finish. Shaping of heels.
Fine grit No. 150 240)
Leaves a very smooth finish. Sole preparation prior to inking.
ABRASIVES Made Up Of: Backing material Adhesive bonding agent Grit (abrasive particles) Sizing agent (to hold grit in place)
ROUGHING Raise the fibers of the scoured upper for proper adhesion and solid bonding. Wire brush is used for roughing.
TYPES OF SPIKE
STEEL
BRASS
Medium to heavier leather
Corrected grain leather
Soft and delicate leather
sheep/goat leather
Sole preparation
WIPING To clean sole from dirt for better adhesion. Can be done with MEK. E.g.. PU , PVC soles
PRIMING To chemically activate the surface for proper bonding. Can be done only by specific primers. Egg.- TPR soles.
Plasticity and Elasticity are inherent properties of
leather which helps it to convert from a flat skin to 3-D shoe. To smoothly work on this property HEAT SETTING is done.
Leather. Suede, nubuck,pu coated.
Temperature. Dry air at 120 130C
split, most grain leather.
PU patent, PVC coated. Fabrics.
Dry air at 100C
HEAT SETTING Done to relax the various lasting strains. Helps upper to retain the shape of the last. TYPES OF HEAT SETTER Infra red setter High velocity air setter Dry heat setter
INFRA RED SETTER
Infra red heat elements were used. Disadvantage very directional form of heat, certain parts did not receive proper heat treatment. DRY HEAT SETTER Used only for synthetic material. No moisture to soften the upper.
HIGH VELOCITY AIR SETTER
High air speed typically 12 14mt/sec. 2 sections in 1 cabinet. 1st section- hot moist air to soften upper. 2nd section- hot dry air to remove moisture and set the shoe to last. Over all flow of air.
SOLE PRESS
Traditional type Enveloping bag Of presses presses Dwell time 12 -15 sec. Pressure - 5 bars depending on the sole material . Less for softer material TPR More for harder material Leather
CARBON PAPER TEST
Lasted upper + sole is prepared excluding adhesive. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Sole Dotted rubber sheet White paper Carbon paper White paper Lasted upper
A Classic Guide to Making and Repairing Vintage Shoes and Boots - Including Instructions for Hand-Sewn Boots, Riveted Boots and Sporting Boots and Shoes
A Classic Guide to Making and Repairing Vintage Shoes and Boots - Including Instructions for Hand-Sewn Boots, Riveted Boots and Sporting Boots and Shoes
