Chapter XX

GENTLEMENS GARMENTS
TROUSERS MAKING
By PHILLIP DELLAFERA
(Principal of the Tailor and Cutter Academy)

IRST of all put in mark-stitches to indicate the inlays that are usually added at leg and
side seams of undersides also seat-seam and sometimes at the pocket mouths of topsides.
For permanent turn-ups it is desirable to leave on 4 to 5, but when the necessary length
of material is not available a smaller amount will have to suffice.

Diagram 75 (1) illustrates the

topsides. Two pleats are marked at
top ; a pocket facing is added from
waist to about 7 down, whilst the
turn-up is located by parallel lines at
bottom. The dress has been taken
out at fork by the cutter, and tack
position is indicated by notches.
Hip-line, knee and leg length are
also notched.
Diagram 75 (2) shows the
undersides with inlays at leg-seam,
side-seam, and seat-seam ; waist
dart is cut out. Notches are made at
hip, knee, and bottom ; whilst turnup is also marked.
Diagram 75 (3) represents the
waistband.
This is a perfectly
straight piece of material about 2
wide and long enough to make up
the waist size plus 4 for extension,
if required. The width of band is
arranged by the cutter, who makes
the necessary allowance at top of
trousers.
Diagram 75 (4) is the fly. This is
shaped in harmony With the outline
of fork at topside. There are two
sections, one for the button-holes
and the other for the buttons. The
fly itself is attached to the left topside
and the button-catch is sewn on to
the right topside.
DIAGRAM 75.
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Gentlemens Garments

Before starting the actual making-up. It is necessary

to cut out certain pieces of lining and linen for various
purposes. First of all there is the crutch stay. This
consists of a square piece of linen (Diagram 76 (1)) about
3 each way. It is folded over cornerwise and slightly
stretched at the crease edge, producing a doubled over
triangular stay as shown by Diagram 76 (2). Then a
piece of linen, the same shape as the fly, is required for
button-hole stay. Two pieces of lining, artificial silk or
silesia, the same shape as the fly, are wanted for making
up the fly ; two strips of linen for each pocket mouth ;
a piece of canvas for button-catch stay. Strips of canvas
are also needed for tops, or waistband. The pockets
themselves are simply squares of 27 pocketing cut to
shape. Now take the fork stays and baste or fasten them
firmly at the fork of both topsides, placing the straight
edges at leg and fork seams. The stays must be arranged
so that they go well above the fly notches.

Diagram 76 (5) portrays the inside view of the left

topside, with fly lining stitched on and turned out. A
strip of linen is attached at pocket mouth, whilst the
pleats have been basted in position. When putting on
the pocket stays the linen must be kept fairly tight, as
shown on the Diagram, and all loose material must be
carefully pressed away. The pleats should be arranged
facing towards the front ; therefore they will appear
to be facing towards the side-seam when seen on the
wrong side of material.
Having got so far, the fly (which should have had
buttonholes made) is placed on the inside of left topside,
as shown on Diagram 76 (6). The fly is basted back
from the edge so that it does not show on the outside,
and a row of stitching is made about 1 away from edge
and takes the some run as the fly tapering off nicely at
the bottom where tack IS finally made.

Diagram 76 (7) shows the inside of right topside. Pleats

and pocket mouth are treated in the same manner as left
side, but, of course, the button-catch is added instead
of the fly. The hollow-seam of button-catch is sewn to
the fly-seam ; this will throw a fair amount of fullness
at bottom ; but it is necessary to produce a clean-fitting
fork. The catch must have a lining of some description,
These parts are cut the same, but are illustrated larger and canvas or linen included for button-stay. I suggest
than each other so that they are easily distinguished. that this stay should be cut on the bias, so that it will
These pieces of material are joined together by a seam at take the desired shape at bottom of button-catch.
the hollow edge, then they are turned out with right side
At this stage the pockets may be prepared, although
of cloth uppermost, as shown by Diagram 76 (4). This they will not be required until side-seams have been
is the actual fly where holes are made. If an inspection sewn. Trouser pocketing is usually 27 wide, and is
of the fly is made, it will be seen that the top layer is folded over, making 13 ; therefore cut off a length
cloth ; next is the linen stay or interlining ; whilst the corresponding to the width, but not less than 12.
bottom is the lining which is used to face the fly. Now
Diagram 76 (8) shows the outline of pocket opened
take the corresponding piece of fly lining and sew in on
out and ready for stitching ; the various quantities are
the fly-seam of left topside, placing it on the right side of
illustrated in inches, both lengthwise and in width. First
material so that it can be turned over to the inside after
of all, separate the two layers of pocketing and fold each
it has been stitched at the edge.
one with right sides of material facing each other. Now
seam round each pocket to the point indicated by 7 ;
then turn out carefully and finally stitch on the outside,
as shown on Diagram 76 (9). The two edges of pocket
must be turned in, both facing the same direction ; the
bottom layer being fastened to the topside of trouser,
whilst the top layer is attached to the underside.
Diagram 76 (3) illustrates the preparation for making
the fly. It will be observed there are three sections
the bottom, which is shown as the largest, is linen ; the
intermediate portion is lining with right side uppermost
; whilst the third section is the cloth fly with right side
facing downwards towards the right side of lining.

Trousers Making

DIAGRAM 76.

181

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Diagram 77 (I) shows the left
topside joined at side-seam of
corresponding underside, the seam
extending for about 1 from the top,
leaving a pocket opening of 6,
and continuing straight through
to bottom. The fullness at pocket
mouth has been pressed away, and
the side-seam is taken through the
linen at top and bottom. Now press
open the side-seams and sew on the
waistbands.

Gentlemens Garments
Diagram 77 (2) portrays the right
Take the right pocket (Diagram
leg with waistband seamed on and 76 (9)) and place it on Diagram 77
pressed open ; the waist dart is also (2), with point A falling at the waistsewn and pressed.
seam and point B just below the
Diagram 77 (3) is the inside view bottom of pocket mouth. Now baste
of left leg with band attached ; it has down the edge very firmly, making
an extension. The pocket opening sure that each end is securely
is clearly indicated, whilst the fly fastened. Next, take the underside
is also included and is carried just inlay at the pocket mouth, and pass
above the waist-seam. It is rather It forward so that it goes between the
difficult to show how pockets are two layers of pocket. It will now be
put in, but a few brief hints may help found that a snip will be necessary
to make the pocket lie smoothly.
to simplify this operation.
The snipping must not be too
long, but only just enough to allow
the pocket to set nicely between the
layers of material.

DIAGRAM 77.

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Trousers Making
Diagram 78 (1) illustrates the right pocket in position.
It is basted along the top ; a linen stay has been included
for strength, and the turning over of the underside
inlay is clearly shown. What really happens is that the
inlay is taken inside the pocket to form a facing, which
is fastened With a side-stitch as indicated at A, B, and
C. The top edge of waistband is turned in, canvas is
included, and button-stay is also basted on the catch.

underside which can be used for pocket facings, thus

avoiding the sewing of extra strips which make the
edges thick and clumsy.

DIAGRAM 78.

DIAGRAM 79.

Diagram 79 (1) shows the outside view of the left

leg. Waistband, with extension, pleats, pocket mouth,
and fly-stitching are all plainly illustrated and need no
further explanation.

Diagram 79 (2) is the outside of right leg. Waistband

Diagram 78 (1) is a section of left leg with extension goes as far as button-catch, whilst pleats and pocket
band put on and pocket inserted. This is the same as mouth are clearly illustrated.
Diagram 78 (2) but, of course, in reverse.
Having finished the tops, the leg-seams should be
Pockets are not easy to make, but I feel certain that stitched and pressed open ; these should be sewn by
with a little patience and plenty of practice good results hand, if possible, because it is a stronger process and
should be obtained. Machine pockets do not appeal to has more elasticity.
me, therefore I shall not try to explain the procedure.
Whenever possible, leave an inlay on both top and

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Gentlemens Garments

Diagram 80 (1) depicts the right leg sewn and pressed

open ; the balance notches being kept even at knee and
bottom. To mark off the length of leg, measure from
crutch to line AA, making it longer than the length
required ; then draw another line BB, 1 below AA ;
and finally another line CC, 1 below BB. This leaves
DD, to be used for the inside turn-up ; it is about
or 1 in depth. Now bring line CC up to AA, making
a fold at line BB.

Diagram 80 (5) shows the inside of the lower section

of a plain-bottom trouser leg, with turn-up basted ready
for felling or cross-stitching, the front edges being
raised slightly whilst the back has just a small dip. The
turning up of bottom facing may present some difficulty
at the front crease position, where it will need a small
vee inserted in order to get the extra length.

(See Diagram 80 (6).) If the legs are wider than usual,

it may not be necessary to put in this vee ; but this will
Diagram 80 (2) illustrates the inside view of trouser be seen quite plainly when basting up the facing.
bottom ; it is turned up, as indicated on the previous
Diagram 80 (7) illustrates the outside appearance of
Diagram, at line BB. The trouser leg will now be 2 the bottom, turned up. Note the raised front and dipped
longer than the required measurement.
back portion.
Diagram 80 (3) portrays the same leg section, with
the actual turn-up inside and only the facing showing
on the outside. In other words, this is the trouser leg
turned inside out with turn-up and facing basted at the
correct length.

When both legs are completed, the seat-seam should

be joined ; this must be done with double-twisted
thread, and by hand. There is always a great strain on
the seat-seam ; therefore back-stitching by hand and
strong thread are advisable. A small vent is made at
Diagram 80 (4) shows the finished bottom with a 1 top of seat-seam, about 1 in length ; this will give the
Turn-up basted in position. Both legs are finished in necessary spring at centre back. After the seat-seam
the same way, the tailor making sure that both turn-ups has been finished, the bottom of fly should be firmly
are the same width.
tacked, and finally curtains and waistbands put in.
Plain-bottom trousers require different treatment ; These are usually made from striped silesia or sleeve
only a couple of inches are allowed for turning up. The lining, the curtains being placed below waist-seam
front portion needs hollowing, and the back must be and waistbands at the top.
slightly longer, with a little round added. Although
there is only one operation in turning up the bottom,
this method is really more difficult because the felling,
or cross-stitching, must be done more carefully in order
to ensure that the stitches do not show on the outside.
The shaping of such a bottom requires more skill than
is needed for the permanent turn-up, which is perfectly
straight.

Trousers Making

DIAGRAM 80.

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Gentlemens Garments

Diagram 81 (1) portrays the finished trousers with

Diagram 81 (2) shows the trousers without extension
waistbands, buttons, and extension band ; this latter item band and with a fob pocket on the right side, fastening
being fastened with a special flat hook and eye, or with with bole and button.
hole and button. The under portion of the waistband
Diagram 81 (3) illustrates what is called the tunnel
may have a small button and bole for extra support.
finish ; this is simply a slot made to take a normal belt
which is fastened with a buckle. It is often used in
flannel trousers for leisure wear.

DIAGRAM 81.