Copyright 2008

Richard Tressler
V2 (9/1808)

Getting Started with Radio Controlled
Model Airplanes

A Beginners Tutorial


Written and Compiled
By
Rick Tressler
Copyright 2008


www.ricktressler.com
[email protected]

Introduction

Introduction
Welcome to Getting Started with Radio Controlled Model Airplanes. I hope you find this
tutorial useful and educational. It is presented in 8 sections and is intended to help
newcomers learn about the fundamental equipment requirements to get started in the
hobby. It is not all-encompassing, but includes a large amount of information.

There are many facets of this hobby. I do not have experience in all of them. Few people
do. I have had an interest in aviation as far back as I can remember, starting off with
those little rubber band powered airplanes and gliders you get in a plastic bag that slide
together. The Guillows Sky Streak was one of my favs. When I was a kid, they were a
quarter. As I got older, I moved into Cox plastic control line models, free flight and
ultimately RC; but not until I was well into adulthood. As a kid, the money for expensive
RC stuff simply wasnt there.

I am also a licensed private pilot, holding single engine land airplane and instrument
ratings. Theres about 600 hours in the logbook; not a lot, but many hours of fun and
learning have been had in light aircraft. If youre ever interested in general aviation,
check out the AOPA and GA Serving America websites.

Guillows Sky Streak
One of my favorites as a kid

I have been playing RC now off and on since 1988 as best as I can recall. Ive built and
flown (and crashed a few) a variety of planes, both kit and prefabricated. There are many
ways to enter the hobby. The one I am going to discuss is a very popular one for first
timers. The airplanes discussed in the tutorial are powered with small 2 stroke motors
known as glow engines. For the beginner, they are intended to be flown with the
assistance of an experienced RC pilot/instructor until the student has progressed to the
point where a solo flight can be conducted. These are trainer type aircraft and as such
have limited aerobatic capability. Their design and construction are such that they can be
assembled by a person fairly capable of working with miniature electromechanical
systems.

This PDF document is loaded with information and web links intended to help direct you
to additional information that exists on the internet. Textual links to other sites are
underlined and in blue. Many graphics illustrations are also linked to their respective
websites through the related caption below it, so click on them to obtain additional
information on that item. Please send email to me to report any bad links. I will try to
keep this document updated. You can also visit my website for information on what I am
doing and what I fly as well as checking in on my blog.


Introduction to RC Modeling Tutorial
3


The Legal Stuff Please Read

Disclaimer
All of the information contained within this tutorial as well as that on the
www.ricktressler.com website is provided for educational use only. By using the
information contained herein, you agree that you will not hold the owner liable for any
event that should happen as a result of you following the information provided within
it. Use the information provided at your own risk. The information within the
www.ricktressler.com website and any downloaded files is provided as-is without
warranty or guarantee of any kind.

Read and follow all equipment manufacturer instructions and heed all warnings
included with all equipment purchased. Wear safety glasses anytime you are working
with any propulsion system including glow engines, electric motors, turbines and
power tools. Get help from experienced modelers. Children should be supervised at all
times while working with any of these systems, equipment, and other potentially unsafe
materials.


Section 1
Training and Getting Help
4
The Importance of Flight Training and Getting Help
You will spend several hundred dollars to get into the RC aviation hobby. Its in your
best interest to obtain assistance not only for flight training, but to also from your
instructor and fellow club members as it relates to equipment selection such as your first
airplane, engine, radio system and flight line support gear. Many people think they can
simply assemble a kit and teach themselves to fly. That may be true, but usually only for
a very few people. Trying to do this hobby entirely on your own usually results in a crash
on the first flight, and a disillusioned owner staring at a pile of wood sticks wondering
where they went wrong. From there, the scenario is either repeated or the new pilot
simply gives up, never achieving success. Get help. Youll be glad you did!

Find and Join a Local Club
Seek out a local club in your area and learn about what is available to assist newcomers
to the hobby. To locate a club in your area, visit the Academy of Model Aeronautics
website or go to Tower Hobbies RC Web website.

Depending on where you live, you may find more than one club in your area. See what
they offer for flight training. Some club programs are very informal. Others have well
documented and more methodical instructional methods that take you through model
selection, construction, setup and flight training. All of this leads you up to the day you
make your first solo flight. Most clubs have members who are willing to help newcomers.

You will need to join the Academy of Model Aeronautics and obtain an AMA license.
The membership is well worth the low annual membership fee. Membership includes
accident insurance that covers you in the event your airplane causes damage to personal
property. This insurance is supplemental to your own primary insurance. Details can be
obtained on the AMA website.

Getting Help Online
There are a number of online forums related to the RC hobby. Membership is generally
required, but the basic entry level type is free. There are many knowledgeable people that
provide good solid guidance to fellow modelers. Then there are those that dont know as
much as they think. Thats the rub I have with forums in general. The problem is you
cant tell the difference between the two in many cases.

Ive read some downright inaccurate advice given by a few folks that just dont know
what they are talking about. Use caution in asking for and taking advice on the web. For
the record, I dont generally use web forums to get advice on subjects I know very little
about. I dont have a problem with the forum websites really. The website operators dont
control the content. Some online forum website links are listed below.

RC Groups
Flying Giants
Down On The Deck
RC Universe

Section 1
Training and Getting Help
5
Heres how I approach things when it comes to obtaining advice over the internet. Go to
the equipment manufacturer first. Call or email them. Thats where I usually start. I also
know several people in my club I trust to give me good solid advice and assistance when
I need it.

Where to Fly Your Model
Because of the size of the RC planes discussed in this tutorial, they should be flown at a
club flying field. There are reasons for this. First, airplanes of this size are too large to be
safely flown in municipal parks and school yards. Additionally, some of these locations
may have regulations that prohibit the flight of ANY aircraft, RC or otherwise, for
liability and safety reasons. Second, the majority of the radio systems in use today
operate in the 72 MHz frequency bands dedicated to RC aircraft operation. You may
unknowingly be flying your plane too close to a sanctioned RC field. Your airplane could
receive interference from another transmitter on the same radio channel. Remember, your
airplane becomes more subject to interference the higher it flies. More discussions will be
presented in the section about radio equipment and systems.

Do NOT fly any model aircraft in the vicinity of power lines, homes, factories, etc. or in
any location where you have not secured permission to do so. Many municipal parks
allow flying park flyer aircraft that meet specific criteria. The aircraft I am discussing
in this tutorial are not park flyers and should be flown at a club field. Keep the hobby
strong and safe and always fly responsibly.

Section 2
Airplane Selection and Construction Supplies
6
Introduction
Since you are going to be at entry level in the hobby, you should start with a trainer
type airplane. The majority of newcomers start with these because they are slow flying,
easy to assemble, mechanically simple and stable flying aircraft. A fast flying, advanced
aerobatic, high performance airplane is not recommended. You will not be able to fly
them. There are many trainer planes on the market at affordable prices. Read on to learn
more.

Kit Types
There are three basic types of kits available on the market today; Built-up, ARF and RTF.
The wingspan of these planes is about 60 inches (5 feet) with a weight of approximately 6
pounds. Significant advancements in kit technology have improved things to the point
where getting a plane together is a fairly straightforward process. Most of these airplanes
are made of balsa and light plywood. With a 60 inch span, the airplane is easy to see from
the ground.

Conventional Balsa Kits
Today, very few kits are made in the U.S. Most are made in China, Taiwan and other
Asian countries. Conventional kits require assembly from die cut or laser cut pieces of
light ply and balsa woods. This type of plane requires the most work to assemble. Quality
kits include a complete hardware kit such as landing gear, control surface hinges, push
rods, fuel tank, propeller spinner, etc. Some people enjoy creating the plane using this
level of assembly. Building at this level also makes it easier to repair the plane in the
event of a crash. You will eventually experience a crash and knowing how the plane is
put together makes the repair process easier and faster. Conventional built-up kits do not
include an engine or radio, so you will need to buy them separately. These planes require
the purchase of covering materials to protect the wood. For many years, airplanes were
covered with a material called silk span and then painted with colored finish called dope.
Today, according to my local hobby shop, dope is becoming very hard to get with the
proliferation of ARF and RTF kits (discussed later), that require little or no covering.


Laser cut balsa and light plywood parts are the norm in todays offshore kit manufacturing industry. The
other kits discussed later are also made using this process.





Section 2
Airplane Selection and Construction Supplies
7

An example of a built-up kit includes the Midwest Aerostar 40, pictured below. This is
among the best built-up kits available today and highly recommended for new pilots.


Midwest Products Aerostar 40
About $135

You will also need to buy a couple rolls of covering material to finish and protect the
airframe. There are several brands on the market. Covering material is made of high
strength plastic sheeting with a temperature sensitive adhesive. A bit of skill is required
to use it, but it is not difficult to learn to apply. A small iron is used to apply the covering
to the airframe. You can also paint it, but preparation and a coat of fuel proof
polyurethane spray is required.


Monokote (about $12-15 per 6 roll) by Top Flite is one of several brands of plastic covering used by many
builders. You need a small iron to apply it to the airframe (right). The iron costs about $20.









Section 2
Airplane Selection and Construction Supplies
8

Your other covering option is silkspan. Silkspan is a fabric-like material that takes more
time and finishing effort than todays modern plasticized heat activated coverings. Its
what was considered to be the standard covering for model airplanes in the early days
and there are people who still use it today. An airplane finished with silkspan is going to
be heavier than one finished with plastic covering. For information on how to apply and
finish a plane with silkspan, click here.

Silkspan is a tissue-like material used to cover model airplanes.

ARF Kits
Almost ready to fly kits, known as ARFsare models that have had much of the
construction completed at the factory. A hardware kit consisting of most of the additional
materials required, such as landing gear, wheels, engine mounts, push rods and other
items is included. There is also a varying degree of quality of these types of kits and its
usually linked to a bargain basement-like price. One of the main advantages of these
planes is a reduction in assembly time. If you prefer not to build, or prefer to build less
and fly more, these kits may be a better choice for you. The airframe is usually pre-built
and covered, wings built and covered as well as the tail section. You need to buy a radio
and engine in addition to the plane. Consult with fellow modelers and see what they like
and have used. The Tower Hobbies Trainer 40 Mark II ARF is an example illustrated
below.


Tower Hobbies Trainer 40 Mark II ARF
About $80, less engine and radio system




Section 2
Airplane Selection and Construction Supplies
9

RTF Kits
Ready to fly kits require the least amount of assembly time and frequently include the
engine and radio system already installed. There is essentially nothing else to buy other
than fuel and field support equipment. This is clearly the fastest way to get in the air, but
at additional cost in some cases.


Hanger 9 Alpha 40 Trainer RTF complete with engine and radio installed
About $280

The design of these airplanes is essentially identical as you can see from the photographs.
Basically the degree of completion of construction is the only thing that changes between
the two products. Some require the use of rubber bands to hold the wing on the fuselage.
Others utilize a wing bolt system which is preferred by some as it eliminates the need to
carry rubber bands. These trainers require at least 8 rubber bands to hold the wing
securely. They are relatively slow flying, stable and forgiving in their flight
characteristics which is why they are ideal for training new RC pilots.

Construction Supplies
This section discusses the additional materials and supplies you will need to complete
your plane. As you become more involved in the hobby, you will undoubtedly acquire
more tools and equipment as you increase your building skills. Select these items
carefully and try to refrain from buying more than you need, as this just increases cost of
getting the plane completed.

The Hobby Knife
This tool is essential in the hobby shop. Razor sharp, youll use it for cutting a variety of
materials such as balsa wood, carving shapes and an almost limitless array of tasks. The
typical hobby knife is made from a shaft of aluminum and is fitted with a very sharp,
replaceable stainless steel blade. Blades are identified by number and not all blades fit the
same shaft. The #11 blade is a very popular blade.

Section 2
Airplane Selection and Construction Supplies
10

X-Acto brand hobby knife with #11 blade installed. At right, the #11 blade only.
The knife and blade is about $5

You can also buy kits with multiple blades and handles if you think you will be doing
more involved building. See the example below.


X-Acto basic knife set that will serve the modeler well
About $18

Exercise caution at all times when working with these knives as the blades are extremely
sharp.

Glue and De-bonding Agents
We have all benefited from technology in many ways over the years and model glue is no
exception. You will need to buy two types of glue for your new hobby shop. They
include epoxy and Cyanoacrylate types. You may also want to buy a small bottle of white
wood glue, such as Elmers. Some applications that call for it. Generally, though, epoxy
and CA should meet most of your needs for glue.

Epoxy glue is a two part system that must be mixed in equal parts by the user. The curing
time varies based on the type of epoxy. Typically, they are sold with 5, 15 and 30 minute
curing times and are used in building where very high strength is required. Examples
include joining wing halves, installing horizontal and vertical stabilizers to the fuselage
(also called the fuse) engine mount rails, landing gear mounts and so on.
Section 2
Airplane Selection and Construction Supplies
11
Epoxy is soluble with alcohol, so you can clean up uncured amounts that may be dripped
onto unwanted areas easily with a towel or rag.


All epoxy is a strong 2 part glue consisting of resin and hardener.
The epoxy shown above will fully cure in about 30 minutes after mixing.
About $8

The other type of glue you will be using is Cyanoacrylate glue, also known as CA. You
may also know this is Superglue. These are high quality glues that are available in 3
viscosities; thin, medium and thick. They are used in areas of building and repair such as
airframe assembly. It is an extremely strong, fast curing adhesive that works on the basis
of molecular bonding. When you buy it, be sure to also buy a bottle of CA debonder
which will allow you to remove unwanted CA from work areas. It is also use to remove
glue from skin. Keep the containers tightly capped. Moisture in the air plays a part in the
curing process, so leaving the cap off will result in accelerated dry-up of glue due to
curing inside the bottle and clogged nozzles; a problem with most glue that have a poor
capping system.

Caution Use all CA glues with caution. Do not breathe the fumes and avoid contact
with skin. Keep debonder close by to remove it from inadvertent contact with skin. Read
and follow all warnings on the packaging.


Zap brand CA glue is one of many CA glues on the market today
About $6 for a 2 oz. bottle

Section 2
Airplane Selection and Construction Supplies
12

Zap Z-7 CA glue debonder
About $6 for a 2 oz. bottle

Thread Locker
This is great stuff and should be in all modelers tool boxes. Model airplanes vibrate. Its
a fact of life. Thread locker is a liquid that is applied to the threads of screws prior to
assembly to keep them tight. Its use is recommended to keep engine mounting screws,
wheel collars and other hardware from vibrating loose. It comes in several strengths and
temperature ranges. I use blue Loctite brand #242. It is a medium strength product that
allows removal of hardware assemblies unlike the Loctite red which is considered to be a
more permanent product. Dont use the red unless an application calls for it.


Loctite #242 blue is a good item to have in the tool box and in the shop. Avoid #268 and #271.
About $5

Pacer Technology makes a medium strength thread locker as well. It is red in color and
acceptable for use on models.


Pacer Z-42. About $4 for a .2 oz. bottle


Section 2
Airplane Selection and Construction Supplies
13
Sandpaper and Other Abrasives
Anything you build will ultimately require a bit of sanding and finishing; some to a larger
degree than others depending on the type of kit you select. You will, therefore, need to
purchase some fine to medium sheets of sandpaper and several basic sanding and shaping
tools including sanding sticks, contoured sanding blocks, etc. Your local hobby shop can
help you with selection.




Sanding Sticks Sanding Blocks Sanding T-Bar
About $7 About $9 About $6

Additional Tools and Materials
Briefly listed below are additional tools and supplies you may need.
T-pins
Pin vise and drills set
Small battery powered drill
Covering iron
Assorted small flat blade and Phillips screwdrivers
Set of small SAE and metric Allen wrenches
Standard pliers
Needle nose pliers
Scissors
Square and triangle
Ruler
Paper towels

Section 3
Engine Selection and Fuels
14
Introduction
The purpose of Section 3 is to introduce you to the glow engines commonly used for
trainer airplanes, the common types available, relative cost and fuel selection. Safety is
also discussed. Safety is number one!

Caution Model engines can be dangerous if proper safety precautions are not
followed. A spinning propeller can easily produce serious cuts which result in the loss
of fingers or injury to other body parts. You should wear proper eye protection any
time you are operating the engine. Never stand in front of an engine except to start it,
always adjusting the needle vale from behind. Never stand, or allow others to stand
next to the propeller while the engine is running. Propellers can break, sending blade
parts flying. Only persons required for the flight operations should be allowed in the pit
area of the flight; a common rule at flying fields. Engines develop considerable heat
once started and stay hot for some time after shut down, Never touch a hot engine with
your bare hands and refrain from trying to repair or disassemble an engine until is has
fully cooled down. Second degree burns can be experienced.

Wear your safety glasses!

Zurich Sport Sunglasses Polycarbonate lens and impact resistant with side shields. Low cost insurance for
your eyes! About $60

The Basic 2 Stroke Glow Engine
Based on the type and size of airplane discussed in the previous section, you will need to
buy a small 2 stroke engine to power it. These engines are called glow engines because
they employ a small spark plug-like device installed in the top of the cylinder head called
a glow plug. The continuous glowing produced by the plug that sustains combustion in
these engines is catalytic in nature. As you might expect, the engines run on glow fuel
consisting of a mixture of nitromethane, methanol and castor oil. Castor oil can be
organic or synthetic. Additives are also used to reduce rust and corrosion.

Two stroke glow engines are fairly simple mechanically. Fundamentally, fuel is brought
into the engine from the tank through a needle valve mounted in the carburetor, then
metered across a spray bar that introduces the fuel to the incoming air. The needle valve
controls the amount of fuel being delivered to the engine. The fuel/air mixture then enters
the combustion chamber inside the engine and the glow plug ignites the mixture and the
process repeats.

Section 3
Engine Selection and Fuels
15
For a more in-depth discussion on 2 stroke glow engine operation, go to the RC Advisor
website. Another good site for engine information is Hooked ON RC Airplanes.com.


Cutaway of a typical 2 stroke glow engine

4 Stroke Engines
The 2 stroke engine discussed above is among the most common for the beginner. The
other type of engine utilized in the hobby is the 4 stroke engine which also runs on glow
fuel. These engines cost more and have more moving parts than their 2 stroke
counterparts. They have a more realistic sound but a larger engine is required to achieve
the same horsepower compared to the 2 stroke engine. This is because the 4 stroke engine
fires every two revolutions compared to the 2 stroke type that fires every revolution. As a
beginner, you can use either engine in your trainer. If you want to learn more about 4
stroke glow engines, click here. You can also go to Hooked ON RC Airplanes.com for
information on the 4 stroke engine.


A 4 stroke glow engine

If you want to learn more about engines of all types, click here.







Section 3
Engine Selection and Fuels
16
Engine Size for a Typical Trainer Plane
Based on the airplanes I have described in Section 2, you need a fairly small engine.
Model engine sizes are expressed in cubic inches (cu. in.), with larger, gas powered
engines sized in cubic centimeters (cc) or cu. in.

You will need a .40 to .46 cu. in. 2 stroke engine for your 60 inch trainer. The price range
for these engines is $80 to $120. If you decide to go with a 4 stroke engine, you will need
a .60 to .70 cu. in. engine that will cost about $160+. I recommend you start with a 2
stroke engine as they are easier to maintain, operate and repair costs are lower.

Within the ranges of the 2 stroke engines, the primary cost separator is bushing supported
crankshaft engines (less cost) versus bearing supported crankshafts (more cost). Bushing
engines do not always last as long as a bearing engine. Some think that bearing engines
are better performers and might make more power. Ive had both and think the overall
better choice is the bearing engine for quality, value and longevity. Ive used an O.S.
Max .46 for years and never had a moments problem. Typically, the more you pay for a
given size engine, the better the overall quality.












O.S. Max .46 ABL engine
About $130

Fuel
Glow fuel is available from your local hobby shop as well as through the internet. The
downside of mail order purchases is the shipping cost and limited methods of
transportation because of the nature of the product. I always buy my fuel from my local
hobby shop

Fuel is sold based on the nitromethane content, expressed as a percentage. The higher the
nitro content, the more power you can get from your engine. The down side is, that as
nitro content increases, so does the price. I recommend a quality fuel such as Wildcat
with 15% nitro content. This fuel contains about 18% oil and is a good overall fuel for
sport use. Buying fuel with more than 15% nitro is a waste of your money in my opinion,
unless youre into racing. Remember, youre getting into the hobby, not racing your
trainer.

Section 3
Engine Selection and Fuels
17

Wildcat 15% nitro is a good sport fuel
About $17 a gallon as of summer 2008

Fuel is generally sold in gallon plastic jugs and by the case with 4 gallons per case. It is
also sold by the quart, but the cost is higher. You will be able to get a better price on the
case. With everything going up due to materials costs and transportation surcharges, the
case price is probably your best bet. You will get about thirteen 10-15 minute flights on a
gallon of fuel; about $1.30 per flight.

Caution ALL model engine fuels are highly flammable and as such must be used and
stored with care in accordance with the fuel maker label instructions.

The major enemy of fuel is water. When fuel sits too long, it absorbs moisture in the air.
The moisture content increases and causes the fuel to go bad. Using this fuel in your
engine will result in operational problems which usually manifest themselves in the form
of rough running and generally unreliable operation. The water content in the fuel also is
left behind, causes rust, corrosion and early demise of your engine. Even when fuel is
used and stored properly, any fuel left behind inside the engine after a flying session will
attract moisture, thus causing rust and corrosion. That is also why after-run oil, discussed
next, should be used in a 2 or 4 stroke engine.

After-Run Oil and the Importance of Using It
To mitigate the effects of rust and corrosion as much as possible, use after-run oil in your
engine. Marvel Mystery Oil is one of the best and I have used it for years. Most after run
oils are fine though. After a flying session, drain the tank of all fuel. Start the engine and
run at full throttle until the engine dies, then start again until the engine no longer fires.
Leave the throttle open and squirt a few drops of oil into the carburetor opening. Spin the
prop with the starter motor for a few seconds. Thats it.

For extended periods of storage, such as through the winter months, I use Marvel air tool
oil. It is applied the same way I described above.

Section 3
Engine Selection and Fuels
18

After run oil reduces rust and corrosion
About $2.50 for a 2 oz. bottle

Section 4
Propellers
19
Introduction
Know by modelers, as props, the sole purpose of this import and often overlooked
piece of equipment is to pull (and sometimes push) the airplane through the air. This
section presents important information relating to propeller types, safety, and selection,
maintenance and balance requirements for your engine. Safety spinners will also be
discussed.

Propeller Safety
Caution Model engines can be dangerous if proper safety precautions are not
followed. A spinning propeller can easily produce serious cuts which result in the loss
of fingers or injury to other body parts. You should wear proper eye protection any
time you are operating the engine. Never stand in front of an engine except to start it,
always adjusting the needle valve from behind the engine. Never stand, or allow others
to stand next to (in-line with) the propeller while the engine is running. Propellers can
break, sending blade parts flying. Only persons required for the flight operations
should be allowed in the pit area of the flight; a common rule at flying fields.

Key Points of Safe Prop Operation
Always wear safety glasses while operating any engine
Balance all propellers before their first use
Check security of the prop nut and safety spinner before the first flight of
the day
Inspect the propeller before each flight
Replace any propeller if you observe any damage

Types of Propellers
There are several types of propellers in use on model airplanes. They include 2, 3, and 4
blade types. By far, the most popular propeller for a trainer plane is a 2 blade type made
of wood or plastic. Most use plastic propellers.

Prop Sizing
Propellers are sized using two numbers; diameter and blade pitch. A very common prop
size for a 40 to 46 trainer engine is a 10-7. The first number is the diameter of the prop in
inches. The second is the blade pitch expressed as a number representing the theoretical
distance the airplane travels forward for each revolution of the prop. In the example prop,
the 10-7 indicates a 10 inch propeller that moves the airplane forward 7 inches per
revolution. Model engine propellers range in overall diameter from 5 inches up through
and including

Plastic or Wood Propellers?
The choice of plastic or wood is yours. The main advantage of plastic over wood
primarily is the increased durability of plastic. Chances are good you will break a wood
prop more easily during your initial flight training.
Section 4
Propellers
20

A 2 blade plastic propeller by APC and among the most common in use
About $3


A 2 blade wood propeller by Zinger
About $3



3 blade plastic propeller by Master Airscrew
About $9


4 blade plastic propeller by APC

Section 4
Propellers
21
Carbon Fiber Propellers
This type of propeller is usually reserved for use for larger airplanes and racers. These are
very lightweight, rigid high performance designs and are much more costly than any
wood or plastic propeller. They are not used on trainer airplanes largely due to their cost.

Safety Spinners and Spinner Nuts
Use of a safety spinner or spinner nut is strongly recommended and is a suggestion by the
AMA. The spinner puts a smooth, usually tapered cone between you and the spinning
propeller. Use of sharply pointed spinners is discouraged. Without a spinner, the prop
hub, attachment nut and the remaining threads of the propeller shaft are exposed.

Spinners come in a variety of materials and designs. The most common type used on
trainer planes is the plastic spinner. Other types include spinner nuts or prop nuts and
aluminum spinners.


Plastic spinner for use with a 2 blade propeller
About $5


Solid aluminum spinner nut
About $7







Section 4
Propellers
22
Balancing a Propeller
ALL propellers should be balanced before use. Unbalanced propellers present an
increased amount of unwanted vibration to the airframe and radio equipment.
Additionally, an unbalanced prop can fail prematurely. You should also visually examine
any propeller you buy or one someone gives you before you put it on the balancer.
Theres not point in balancing a damaged or defective propeller.

Supposedly, carbon fiber propellers are supplied factory balanced. It would behoove the
owner to verify and, if necessary, balance before use. Some people think all props come
from the manufacturer perfectly balanced. That is not the case.

In order to properly check and balance your prop, you will need a prop balancer. These
are not expensive tools and are a valuable addition in your shop. Balancing takes a few
minutes and the investment is well worth the expense.

The Dubro Products Tru-Spin Balancer my personal favorite
About $28


Section 4
Propellers
23

Top Flite Power Point Balancer I own this one as well. Good for smaller props.
About $20

Basics of Balancing a Propeller
Propellers should be balanced before use. Smaller propellers such as those used on .40
size engines need only be balanced tip-to-tip. Hub balancing is performed on larger
props. The balancing procedure should be conducted indoors where the wind cannot
affect blade movement while youre trying to determine which blade is heavy.

Tip Balance
Your goal is to balance the propeller such that the tips are in perfect balance. Install the
prop on the balancer. The heavy tip will fall toward the 6 oclock position. This is the
blade from which you need to remove material. Using a piece of sandpaper or sanding
block, remove some prop material from the BACK of the heavy blade. Re-install the prop
on the balancer and check the balance. When the prop is properly balanced, it will
maintain its position with the tips at the 9 oclock and 3 oclock positions.

Propeller Reamers
A prop reamer is one of those necessary accessories, also called by my local hobby shop
owner as a necessory. A prop reamer is a tool that enlarges the hole in the center of the
prop hub, allowing proper fit on the engine shaft. Use the reamer to obtain the smallest
hole that allows the prop to easily fit onto the engine shaft. The one shown will ream a
prop hole to 3/16, , 5/16 and 3/8. It should be noted that a conventional tapered
reamer is not acceptable for this task.

Section 4
Propellers
24

Great Planes 4 step SAE propeller reamer
About $11


Painting Your Propeller
Most plastic and wood propellers come from the factory unpainted. While not an AMA
safety rule, as a safety measure, its a good idea to paint the tips of the prop white and/or
yellow to better define the disc area of the prop while it is turning. One way to do it is
described here. Its not a difficult task and actually makes your airplane look better.


Painted propeller tips increase safety





Section 5
Radio Equipment
25
Introduction
This section of the tutorial will present some information relating to the basics of radio
equipment suited for use with trainer aircraft. Selection, price, features, and technologies
will be discussed. There are a number of considerations to be made before buying a radio
system for your airplane.

The radio system selected must be appropriate for the type of airplane you will fly.
Trainer aircraft generally require a 4 channel system; one channel for each function. In
the case of the trainer plane, you will need one channel for each of the following
functions; 1) rudder, 2) elevator, 3) ailerons, 4) throttle. I recommend you buy at least a 6
channel radio system. Ill assume here youre going to enjoy this hobby so much, youll
want to build another airplane and that airplane may require more than 4 channels.
Additional channels give you more flexibility with more advanced models like flaps,
retractable landing gear, lights and so on.

The control systems used in RC planes are proportional. That is, the amount of control
stick movement made on the transmitter is directly proportional to the amount of control
surface deflection on the aircraft.

Radio systems are battery powered, utilizing rechargeable battery packs with 4.8 volts
typical for the receiver and 9.6 volts for the transmitter. The batteries are either Nickel
Cadmium (NiCad) or Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) types. See the Battery Packs
discussion below for details.

Radios operate on one of two available frequency bands authorized for radio controlled
aircraft. These frequencies are 72 Megahertz (MHz) and the newer systems utilize 2.4
Gigahertz (GHz) (2400 MHz). RC cars operate on 75 MHz.

The 72 MHz Operating Band
The 72 MHz band operation consists of 50 discrete frequencies in a channelized format.
Channels are spaced 20 KHz apart and are known as narrow band systems. The previous
channel based system consisted of half the number of channels in use today and were 40
KHz on the channel spacing, called wide band systems. Narrow band systems replaced
wide band types in the 1980s. Operation of radio systems with wide band transmitters
and receivers is no longer authorized. The transmitted signal is modulated via AM, FM or
pulse coded modulation systems (PCM). There are numerous variants of PCM. AM
systems are no longer made, but you may see a narrow band AM system at the flying
field. They work fine.

Section 5
Radio Equipment
26

72 MHz Aircraft Band Frequency Allocation as of September 2008
50 channels are allocated with 20 KHz spacing. There is no channel 1 10.

Selecting an Operating Channel on 72 MHz
Most channels are free from interference, but you can never be guaranteed of that. Before
you buy a radio system for your airplane, check with the local club where youre going to
be flying and find out what channels, if any are prohibited from use. At my club, channel
20 gets so much interference, it is not authorized for use. If you show up with a radio on a
prohibited frequency, you cannot fly. You have to replace the transmit and receive
crystals in your equipment to another channel. Crystals are plug-in components that set
the operating frequency of the radio system and are generally user replaceable.

Section 5
Radio Equipment
27

The transmitter and receiver have crystals that determine the channel of operation. They can be replaced
with other crystals to change the operating frequency. Prices range from a few dollars each to about $10
depending on brand and type of transmitter.

Only one person may operate their radio system on a given channel at the same time.
That is, if you are operating on channel 34, then no one else may fly their airplane on that
channel until the that pilot lands and turns off their transmitter. Should two transmitters
be on the air at the same time, the airborne craft can be shot down as the second
transmitter is effectively jamming the receiver on the airborne airplane. For this reason,
most clubs utilize a frequency control system, or frequency board whereby the pilot
obtains and attaches a clip for his transmitter for the channel on which will be operated.
The channel clip is returned to the board when the pilot is finished with the channel.


Example of a frequency control board. They can be easily built by a club member for low cost.

2.4 GHz Systems
The newest type of radio system to enter the market is the 2.4 GHz spread spectrum
systems. These are truly state of the art systems and operate on a frequency much higher
than the 72 MHz; more than 33 times higher. The most unique feature of the new breed
of radio control system is that you do not have to be concerned with a channel system and
interfering with other modelers like you do with 72 MHz systems. Frequency of
operation at the transmitter is automatically selected and the airplane receiver is bound
to the transmitter. Only the transmitter originally bound to the receiver can control it and
only the bound receiver listens to that transmitter. The system employs state of the art
frequency hopping technology that actually changes several hundred times a second. It
is beyond the scope of this tutorial (and my knowledge) to present more than an overview
of this type of system.
Section 5
Radio Equipment
28
There are other brands that have developed their own spread spectrum systems or
licensed one for their products. Other spread spectrum transmitters cannot cause
interference to an operating system. This is the major attraction to this operating band.
These are generally more expensive, but eliminate the concern of interference by an
inadvertent turn-on by another transmitter. The airborne receivers are also less likely to
be affected by interference from outside sources of radio frequencies.

For an in-depth discussion on spread spectrum technology, check out the Spektrum RC
website.

With these basic concepts in mind, lets examine the components that make up a basic
system.

Components of the RC System
A typical radio system consists of...

Transmitter
Receiver
Airborne Battery Pack
Servos
Accessories Pack
Servo mounting hardware
Switch harness
Battery charger
Owner manual

Transmitter
The transmitter controls all aircraft operation. Most are equipped with a 9.6 volt NiCad or
NiMH battery and two control sticks which are the primary user interface devices to
control the airplane. There are several transmitter brands on the market and along with
them, many functions, additional channels and extra features. Generally, the more
channels, bells and whistles on the transmitter, the more expensive the systems become.

Brands include Futaba, JR, Airtronics, Spectrum and Hitec to name a few.

The Buddy Box System
When you are learning to fly, most instructional programs at clubs incorporate the use of
a buddy box to accelerate the learning process. Use of the buddy box also greatly
reduces the likelihood that you will crash the airplane at times when the instructor needs
to take control of the airplane. More than one airplane has been lost without the use of
this system. The buddy box works like this; you and the instructor both have a transmitter
between which a control cable is connected. The instructor uses your transmitter as the
master which is equipped with a trainer switch that gives control to you. When necessary,
the instructor will release the switch, returning control back the master transmitter. The
slave transmitter, which remains off at all times, may be provided by the club, or you can
buy your own. The slave does not have to be the same model as your master.
Section 5
Radio Equipment
29
It could be a simple 4 channel unit. As long as it is compatible with your brand and has
sufficient channels, you can use it.


A 4 channel FM transmitter at left and buddy box (trainer) cords

Receiver
The receiver is among the airborne components. It is powered by the included
rechargeable battery pack. Power to the receiver is controlled through the use of a wiring
harness and switch assembly which is included with the radio system. The harness also
provides a charging jack which can be fitted with a panel adapter for easy charging of the
battery at the flying field without the need to remove the wing.

A typical 8 channel FM receiver on the left and switch harness. These are part of the items included with a
complete radio system. The wire coming out of the receiver is the antenna. The cost of a receiver by itself
ranges from $40 to $200+ with cost dependent on the number of channels and modulation type.

Servos
Servos control the airplanes control surfaces and throttle. A servo is a small DC motor
contained in a plastic box with the required control circuit inside the box. The servos are
connected to the appropriate output channel on the receiver. The motor is connected to a
splined output shaft, onto which a servo control arm is attached. Linkages from the servo
to the appropriate control surface or other function such as the throttle are made to
facilitate control of that part of the airplane. The basic trainer airplane requires 4 servos
for operation.
Section 5
Radio Equipment
30

Example of a standard size analog servo
About $11

Servo prices start at about $10 and go up from there depending upon the amount of
torque developed at the output shaft, motor type employed and the internal gear systems
used. The internal gear reduction train can be nylon, super hard plastics or titanium. Ball
bearings may be used as well as bushings to add durability and reliability to the system; a
must for large, high powered airplanes.

Transmitter and Airborne Battery Packs
All RC systems use rechargeable battery packs to power the receiver, servos and
transmitter. They can be NiCad or NiMH types. Individual cell are made up into packs to
meet the voltage requirements for the application. NiCad and NiMH cells are 1.2 volts
nominally. The battery generally supplied with a radio system includes a 4 cell, 4.8 volt
pack for the receiver and an 8 cell, 9.6 volt pack for the transmitter. You can also use a 5
cell, 6 volt pack for the receiver as an option.


A 4 cell, 4.8 volt receiver battery pack on the left and an 8 cell, 9.6 volt pack at right. These are typical of
batteries used in RC radio systems today. Replacement cost is about $35 per pack.








Section 5
Radio Equipment
31
Battery Pack Care
Proper charging and maintenance of your battery packs is very important to reliable
operation and long life. Battery packs used in RC systems are low maintenance and will
last for several years. A quality pack should provide several hundred discharge/recharge
cycles. A cycle is defined (in my book) as discharge of the battery followed by a
recharge. A full cycle is one that results in a fully charged battery being discharged to 1.1
volts per cell at a specific discharge rate (current). Periodically, battery packs in both the
transmitters and receivers should undergo a complete charge followed by a discharge
using a specific current and shut down voltage.

This practice is known as cycling and is an accepted method to determine pack capacity.
Once demonstrated capacity reaches 70% of rated capacity, the pack should be removed
from service, recycled and replaced with a new one. End of life at 70% capacity comes
from the battery manufacturers I contacted for this tutorial.

Many people look for bargain basement prices on a battery pack. Think about this for a
moment. Why try to save $10 on a $40 battery that is installed in a $400 airplane? Ill
never understand that. Buy quality replacement packs, test them occasionally and replace
when test result indicate the need to do so. Simple!

Recommended equipment to properly cycle battery packs will be discussed later in this
tutorial in the Field Support Equipment section.

Radio System Costs
There is a broad range of prices for radio systems. You can get an entry-level 4 channel
system with very little options for about $100. From there, you can go as high as $3000
and anywhere in between. Expect to pay about $180 to $350 for a good radio system with
6 channels.

Section 6
Field Support Equipment
32
Introduction
So far, I have discussed airplanes, radios and engines. These are the fundamental things
needed to fly an RC model. With that behind you now, its very important to become
familiar with some of the basic equipment and tools you will need once youre out of the
shop and have carted all this gear to the flying field. The equipment discussed here is not
a complete list, but I consider it required as well as a few things I think are nice to have
that can make your experience more enjoyable and easier. In Section 6, I will discuss
starters, batteries, fuel pumps, tote boxes, power panels, volt meters and some tool items.

The Tote Box
Also called a Field Tote, this holds a number of things I will discuss further. Basically,
the tote box is made of light plywood or plastic and holds items such as starter battery,
fuel jug, starter motor, fuel pump, assorted tools and other flying sundries. You dont
need to buy a hobby-specific unit. I see a number of fellow flyers using commercially
available tool boxes, some even on wheels that you can pick up at the local home and
garden stores like Lowes or Home Depot. Thats fine too. The basic difference between
the two is the field tote is task-specific. Some have converted the plastic tool boxes to
some neat little tote boxes.


Wood field tote box. Accessories shown can be purchased separately or as a complete package.
The basic tote costs about $25.

The Power Panel
If you decide to go with a field tote, the power panel is one of those accessories that
many use. Its function is to serve as a mini electrical distribution system, providing power
and control to an electric fuel pump, engine starter and glow plug igniter. It is powered by
a small 12 volt battery enclosed inside the tote box pictured above.


A basic power panel. It requires a 12 volt 7.5 amp-hour battery. About $18 and up.
Section 6
Field Support Equipment
33
Glow Driver
Also called a glow heater, a glow driver is a single cell NiCad battery fitted with a spring
loaded glow plug clip. The purpose of this handy device is to allow you to get the glow
plug hot so you can start the engine. Once the engine is running, the glow driver is
removed. These devices are very nice and usually come with their own charger. Some are
equipped with a built-in charge indicator which I find very useful.


The DuraTrax rechargeable glow driver at left uses a sub-c NiCad battery and comes with its own charger.
It costs about $15. The Ni Starter by McDaniel RC (right) also has a supplied charger and a meter built into
the unit. It costs about $34.

Heres an alternative to the glow driver. The power panel discussed just a bit earlier in
Section 7 has an adjustable glow driver output which is easily tapped with a corded glow
plug clip pictured below. The glow plug clip should lock on to the glow plug securely so
it doesnt fall off during starting operations.



This panel-ready locking glow clip costs $10 and is an alternative to the more expensive battery powered
glow driver discussed in the previous paragraph.










Section 6
Field Support Equipment
34

Starter/Panel Battery
Field support equipment requires a source of portable power. Enter the starter/panel
battery, which also serves the other related functions. This is generally a 12 volt, 7 amp
hour lead-acid battery that is installed inside the field tote under the power panel.


A 12 volt battery suitable for power panel and starter applications
About $20

Starter
While not a necessity, a portable 12 volt starter is highly recommended whether youre a
beginner or not. If you choose not to use one, youll have to resort to manual starting of
the motor; something we old hands at the hobby didnt have a choice in years ago.
Engines are then started manually by simply flipping the prop until the engines comes
to life. A properly maintained and adjusted engine will start in one to two flips. Winter
time starting takes a bit more effort sometimes. Youll use your finger or the trusty
chicken stick in lieu of your finger to make all this happen without a starter motor.


The Sullivan Hi-Tork 12 volt starter
About $45


The Davis Model Products Start-R-Stik
About $7 Low cost insurance against injury





Section 6
Field Support Equipment
35
Fuel Pump and Delivery System
You need be to get fuel from the fuel jug into your airplane. There are two ways to get
that accomplished. You can use a manual hand cranked pump or a small electric one you
add to your field tote.




You need to pump the fuel safely from the jug into the airplane. Using a pump system such as those
illustrated below is recommended.




Hobbico hand crank fuel pump at left and Sullivan 12 volt electric fuel pump
The hand crank pump costs about $11. The Sullivan pump, about $15. Both are highly effective.

Regardless of the system you choose, youll need to get a set of fuel can/jug fittings to
install in the top of the cap. As youve read, you can go low cost or high cost, relatively
speaking. A basic kit consists of 2 brass fittings that require you to drill a couple holes in
the cap, a length of fuel tubing to go into the jug/can and a clunk/filter that attaches to the
end of the internal fuel pickup line. Other more expensive products achieve the same
result and can be less prone to leakage. I use the method below on the left and experience
some leakage which requires periodic cleanup around the top of the jug. You should
always filter your fuel before it is pumped into the airplane.



Great Planes fuel station can fitting set at left and the Dubro Kwik Fill fuel can fitting.
About $5 and $8 respectively
Section 6
Field Support Equipment
36

Glow Plug/Prop Nut Wrench
Occasionally you will need to change a glow plug at the field and you should always
check the security of your prop nut before each flying session. The tool to have for this is
a multi-use item called the glow plug & prop nut wrench. This minimizes the number of
tools you need in your field tote.


The glow plug/prop nut wrench by HPI fits several metric and SAE and metric sizes
About $7

Assorted Small Hand Tools
Here are a few suggestions for you to toss into your field tote before heading out to the
field. If you forget something, most fellow fliers are happy to help you in a pinch. Dont
make it a habit of borrowing tools though. You should have the necessary tools and
equipment to be self supporting in your efforts.

Here a few things to toss into that field tote; some of which you may already have.

Small needle nose pliers
Small Phillips screwdriver
Small regular screwdriver
Modelers knife
Regular pliers
Small assorted SAE and/or metric Allen wrenches

The longer you stay in the hobby, the more stuff you collect such as nuts bolts, screws,
tools, miscellaneous supplies, etc. I have a dedicated tool and parts tote I carry to the
field, but rarely need much from it.

Section 7
Battery Maintenance Equipment
37
Introduction
I am going to talk about a few battery maintenance items you should consider for your
equipment list. These items are the expanded scale volt meter, field charger and battery
cycler.

Expanded Scale Volt Meter
You should have an expanded scale volt meter, also called an ESV, to check the state of
charge of your flight pack and transmitter batteries while youre at the flying field. With
this little device, you have no idea what the state of charge of the batteries is. If you take
off with a transmitter or receiver battery pack that is extremely low on charge, the pack
could fail while youre flying. Clearly the outcome of such an event is going to be
obvious and youll be taking your plane home in a shopping bag.

Heres how this thing works. The ESV has a calibrated voltage scale that displays the
measured voltage of the battery pack. It also has a small load resistor inside that simulates
the battery under a loaded condition which is a great way to determine whether you can
keep flying or charge your pack. An ESV can check both transmitter and receiver (flight)
packs.














Hobbicos ESV will check the condition of 4, 5, and 8 cell batteries with ease. It costs about $10

In addition to this unit, you will need connectors to connect the ESV to your transmitter
and receiver batteries. Be sure you get the ones for your specific radio brand, such as JR,
Futaba, Airtronics, etc. Some transmitters require you remove the transmitter battery
from the transmitter to test it because the radio is built with a blocking diode to prevent
reverse polarity charging.








Section 7
Battery Maintenance Equipment
38
The digital version of the ESV described above does essentially the same job, but with a
digital display. You still need the radio-specific connectors.

Hobbicos digital ESV MKIII gets the job done with a digital display. Its function is that of the analog
meter MKII unit previous illustrated. The advantage? No mechanical meter movement to break. But it costs
more about $25.

To check the condition of your flight battery, youll need to gain access to the charging
lead on the switch harness I discussed earlier in Section 6. To do this with relative ease, I
highly recommend you fit the airplane with a charge jack mount when assembling the
plane. They are low cost and take a couple minutes to install.


This charge jack mount made by Ernst is a low cost way to gain easy access to your receiver battery to
check its condition with an ESV. It costs about $2.50.













Section 7
Battery Maintenance Equipment
39
Field Charger
A field charger is a piece of equipment used at the flying field to quick charge your
transmitter and receiver battery packs at the same time. This is not a required item on
your initial purchase of RC goodies, but at some point, you may want to get one if you do
a lot of flying or have a day where you forget to charge your packs the night before you
go fly. It is powered from your all important panel battery and power is taken from the
front of panel where you plug in the starter.


This Hobbico 12 volt field charger will charge up your transmitter and receiver batteries using your power
panel battery. It will charge a variety of battery types including 1 to 8 cell NiCad and NiMH packs. If you
ever get into electric flight, it will charge up to a 3 cell Lithium Ion pack. It costs about $55.

Charge times vary depending on the state of charge of the battery before you begin
charging and the rate of charge you put into the battery. On average, you recharge a pair
of packs in about 1- 1 hours. When you go shopping for a field charger think about the
type(s) of batteries you want to charge, their cell counts and milliamp hour ratings. You
want a unit that will do what you expect. Never misapply a battery charger and attempt
to charge packs it is not designed to charge.

Battery Cycling System
Known in the hobby as a cycler, this piece of gear is used to charge, discharge and
recharge your batteries in an automated fashion. There is a LOT of battery cyclers out on
the market and its easy to become confused about what to buy. Of course, the same can
be said of most of subjects Ive discussed in this tutorial. Thats one of the primary
reasons I wrote this; to help educate the beginner and clear some of the smoke away from
the seemingly limitless array of products offered to the RC enthusiast.

So, why do you need a cycler? I covered that topic back in Section 5, Radio Equipment.
Please review the paragraph titled Battery Pack Care. The discussion here in Section 8
will address what they look like, how they work, their approximate cost and how to
specify one for your particular needs.





Section 7
Battery Maintenance Equipment
40

The unit pictured is designed to cycle transmitter and receiver battery packs. It is a
microprocessor controlled charger and discharger. The sequence of operation starts with a
15 hour charge followed by an automatic switchover to a low rate trickle charge. The unit
then discharges the batteries to 1.05 volts per cell, and then automatically starts
recharging. Battery capacity is displayed on the LCD panel. This particular unit can cycle
NiCad and NiMH packs of 6-8 cells for the transmitter and 1, 4, or 5 cell receiver packs.
Up to 2 packs, 1 transmitter and 1 receiver can be cycled at the same time. The unit is
operated from standard house power, 115 VAC, 60 Hz.

You will need to use the same test leads you used for your ESV to connect the cycler to
the packs. You might want to consider buying a spare set.

The Hobbico Accu-Cycle Tx/Rx Battery Cycler will handle the cycling needs of the average RC flier. It
costs about $70. This is an entry-level unit and more capable units will cost more.

Section 8
Where You Can Buy Your Gear
41
Introduction
I am going to give you some insight on the possibilities of where you can buy the gear
Ive been discussing throughout the tutorial. As you might expect, the internet is a
seemingly unlimited source of low-cost mail order goodies. At the same time, there is
still an industry of locally owned and operated hobby shops in the U.S.

There are pros and cons of dealing over the internet as well as with local businesses, so
heres the proverbial comparison between the two.

On Line Commerce
Clearly the internet has made buying stuff easier and sometimes items can be purchased
at lower cost than brick and mortar retail stores. Keeping that in mind, not all internet
sores are created equal, nor does the notion of online purchasing make these less
expensive places to shop. Here are the pros and cons of internet buying RC gear.

Pros
No need to go out and burn gas in the car
Lower prices (sometimes)
No sales tax (most of the time)
Internet-only specials
Consistent good results with well known companies

Cons
Returns are a pain you pay the return freight most of the time
Poor, sometimes no tech support by knowledgeable staff
The best price can and does result in long backorders no deal there
What you order is not always you get

Local Hobby Shop
If you havent done so already, you need to seek out your local hobby shop. Hopefully,
youre fortunate and have one in your neighborhood. I am in Columbus, Ohio and have a
good one about 20 minutes away Ive been using. If you have to drive 30 minutes or
more to get to yours, a planning session in the shop will save time, gas and money. These
days, unnecessary trips to the hobby shop can get expensive.

Heres one thing I recommend you do not do; buy equipment on the internet, then when a
problem comes up, take it to the local shop for help. You might get away with this a time
or two. The hobby shop gets a big fat zero from this and theres really no incentive for
them to spend time with you unless you buy from them. Thats a great benefit of buying
locally. Some may not agree with this view, but its my opinion and many people agree
with me on it.





Section 8
Where You Can Buy Your Gear
42
Here are the pros and cons of buying from a hobby shop.

Pros
Locally owned businesses usually staffed with knowledgeable people
Returns are generally an easier task than mail order
Prices are competitive with internet sites (at my hobby shop anyway)

Cons
Some hobby shops dont stock a wide range of RC gear
You may be unfortunate and not even have a shop near your home

Personally, I make most of my purchases at my local shop. Once in a while I will order
something on an internet site.

If youre going to buy on the web, heres a listing of some websites Ive done business
with and have been very satisfied. Click the link to go there. You will need an internet
connection for these.

Tower Hobbies all things model aviation
Desert Aircraft high performance giant scale airplane engines and accessories
Extreme Flight RC Airplanes, accessories and engines
Horizon Hobby all things model aviation
Abell RC accessories, radios and much more

Model Aviation Organizations
Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA)
International Miniature Airplane Club (IMAC)
International Miniature Aircraft Association (IMAA)

Find an RC Club on the RC Web

My personal RC website - ricktressler.com