The String Method of Wheel Alignment
The String Method of Wheel Alignment
This method will also give you the toe-in of more complex suspension geometries. However to do any meaningful
alignment on these systems you need the other angle measurements too. To get these you will need more
sophisticated equipment.
Tools:
• Four small standoffs (Lego 2x4 full height works really well)
• A Flashlight
Check that nothing is loose. Loose wheel bearings, ball joints and leading arm rubber
will make the measurements meaningless. Center the steering wheel as much as
you can.
Starting at one tire, pull the string all the way around the four tires. Try to get the
string near the centerpoint of each tire as you go. Tie the ends together making sure
the string is good and taut. At the four corners of the vehicle insert the blocks. The
blocks help to ensure that the string only touches at these four spots. The blocks
should sit near the fattest part of the tire bulge.
The accuracy of this method is all in the setup. Make sure the line crosses exactly at
the center point. Mercedes has graciously provided a point in the exact center of the
wheel, use it. While you are at it, make sure the blocks are roughly in similar
positions on the four wheels.
3) Measure
Using the ruler, measure the distance from the string to the front and back edges of
each rim. The flashlight comes in handy here. You can create a sharp shadow of the
string on the ruler, making it easier to get an accurate reading.
4) Calculating the Results
Write your findings down as you go. A cartoon drawing of the car helps keep the
values in their correct places. It is really easy to transpose the numbers and
positions.
5) Interpretation
Subtract the back measurement from the front measurement on each side. Then add
the left and right sides. The end result is twice the toe-in at the front edge of the
rim. In the example above one can see that the wheels are turned slightly to he left
and that I've got 0.5mm of toe-in. That is within spec, however 0.0mm is ideal for
the G.
Actually changing the toe-in is relatively simple. The catch is that the adjustment
bolts are often stubbornly corroded on. Big wrenches are required. I've found it
easiest to remove the track rod and hold it in a big well anchored bench vise. This
also gives you some more fighting room and lets you use a torch with less risk of
expensive damage.