Article Designation: Refereed JTATM

Volume 7, Issue 3, Spring 2012

1


Volume 7, Issue 3, Spring2012

Dimensional Properties of Single Jersey Knitted Fabrics
Made from New and Regenerated Cellulosic Fibers

J . C. Sakthivel, Assistant Professor
N. Anbumani, Associate Professor
Department of Textile Technology
PSG College of Technology
Peelamedu, Coimbatore, India

ABSTRACT

. In this study, dimensional properties of viscose, modal and lyocell single jersey knitted
fabrics with three level of loop lengths were studied under dry, wet and fully relaxation
conditions. An attempt has been made to investigate the influence of different fiber types such as
viscose, modal and lyocell fibers on the dimensional properties of single jersey knitted fabric. The
three fibers were selected with similar fineness and fiber length as 1.5 d X 38 mm. The 14.8 tex
staple spun yarn made with viscose, modal and lyocell fibers has been knitted with three level of
loop lengths and the knitted fabrics is subjected to dry, wet and fully relaxed states. The effect of
fiber type, loop length and relaxation treatments on the dimensional properties of single jersey
knitted fabrics were statistically analyzed using an analysis of variance. The course and wale
spacing values of lyocell fabrics found lower than that of viscose and modal knitted fabrics.
Lyocell fabrics shows, higher areal density with decreasing loop length. It is also found that, ks
value of the lyocell fabrics is increases proportionally with increase in the value of tightness
factor, compare than viscose and modal fabrics. The fabrics made from lyocell shows maximum
bursting strength and lower spirality as compared with viscose and modal fabrics, due to the
structural characteristics of lyocell fibers. Single jersey knitted fabrics made with lyocell fibers
shows better dimension properties compare than viscose and modal fabrics. .

Keywords: Circular knitting machine, Dimensional properties, Lyocell, Modal, Spun viscose
yarn, Weft knitted fabric

1. INTRODUCTION

In recent years there has been a very
fast growth in the knitting section of the
textile industry. A demand for weft knitted
garments has increased many folds over the
years in the domestic and export markets.
Dimensional stability of knitted fabrics has
been one of the most discussed areas in the
textile industry as well as in research fields
[1]. Because of the dimensional instability
of knitted loop construction, single jersey
knitted fabrics suffers from various forms of
dimensional distortion [2]. Parmer [3]
reported that efforts are being made to make
a knitted fabric more comfortable by
changing the fibers, yarn parameters (twist,
bulk, count and finish), knitting parameters
(courses per inch, wales per inch, loop
length and fabric weight) and post knitting
finishes (enzyme and chemical). The Single
J ersey knitted fabric properties especially

Article Designation: Refereed JTATM
Volume 7, Issue 3, Spring 2012
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the dimensional and physical properties are
mainly influenced by the constituent fibers,
yarn properties, knitting machine variables,
processing and finishing treatments.

Munden [4] and Doyle [5] have
extensively investigated the dimensional
properties of wool and cotton knitted fabrics
and predicted that the length of the yarn in
the knitted loop plays a major role in
determining the dimensions of a knitted
fabrics. Munden [4] carried out a study of
fabric relaxation and fabric geometry with
wool yarns. He firstly defined two relaxed
states, if a fabric after knitting has been
allowed to lie freely for a sufficient length of
time; it eventually reaches a stable state
which is called the dry relaxed states. In the
dry relaxed state, the natural configuration
of yarn is almost straight so that when it is
un rowed, the yarn takes up an
approximately straight form. The state of
equilibrium reached by a fabric after static
relaxation in water and subsequent drying is
called the wet relaxed state. In the wet
relaxed state, yarn is set so that the natural
configuration of yarn is not straight but is set
into a form approximating the loop shape in
the fabric. This implies that the forces which
are necessary to keep the yarn in loop shape
in the dry relaxed state, are reduced in the
wet relaxed state. Knapton [6] has also
studied the dimensional properties of wool
knitted fabrics and concluded the
importance of K values on the dimensional
properties. Sharma [7] has studied the
dimensional properties of acrylic knitted
fabrics and concluded that the fabrics made
from different yarns and counts, the courses
per inch and wales per inch vary inversely
with the length of yarn knitted into the
stitch.

The dimensional and physical
properties of weft knitted fabrics,
particularly made with cotton, wool and
acrylic has been studied by many
investigators [8-10]. However, not much has
been reported for weft knits made out of
viscose, modal and lyocell fibers. There has
been a growing demand for absorbent fibers
with the need hinging on comfort and
fashion. All regenerated cellulosic fibers
have the same chemical composition, yet
they differ in density, molecular mass,
degree of polymerization, super molecular
arrangement, and above all, their degree of
crystallinity and orientation. The main
differences in structure, and consequently in
fiber properties, originate from variations in
production processes. Regenerated synthetic
fibers, especially modal and lyocell fibers
production has helped in the development of
new apparels and created tremendous
possibilities to achieve improved
dimensional, physical, mechanical and
aesthetic properties of apparel fabrics [11-
14].

In order to study the influence of
fiber type, loop length and relaxation
treatments on dimensional properties of
knitted fabric, three different fibers such as
viscose, modal and lyocell with similar
fineness and fiber lengths were used. This
present study discusses the influence of
viscose, modal and lyocell fibers, loop
length and relaxation treatments on the
dimensional properties of single jersey
knitted fabrics.

2. MATERIALS AND METHODS

The objective was to compare the
dimensional and physical properties of the
single jersey knitted fabrics made from
viscose, modal and lyocell fibers. Viscose,
modal and lyocell fibers with1.5 d fineness
and 38 mm staple length was chosen for this
study. The viscose, modal and lyocell yarns
were spun on a miniature ring frame with
14.8 tex and 866.14 twist per meter. Table 1
shows the properties of viscose, modal and
lyocell spun yarns. The fabrics were knitted
from 14.8 tex (40Ne) viscose, modal and
lyocell yarns on a circular knitting machine
of 24 gauge and 18 inches diameter.1356
needles and 72 number of feeders were used
on a circular knitting machine. The fabrics
were knitted on a clockwise rotating circular
knitting machine. Three different loop
lengths (0.35, 0.40 and 0.45 cm) were

Article Designation: Refereed JTATM
Volume 7, Issue 3, Spring 2012
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chosen to produce a single jersey knitted
fabric samples from a viscose, modal and
lyocell spun yarns and all the fabrics are
subjected to dry, wet and fully relaxation
treatments. The effect of loop length and
relaxation treatments on dimensional and
physical properties of the single jersey
knitted fabrics were analyzed by two way
ANOVA statistical tool at 95% confidence
level.. The methodology followed for this
work is shown below:

2.1 METHODOLOGY

Viscose (V), Modal (M) and Lyocell (L)
fibers (1.5 d X 38 mm)

Production of 100 % viscose, modal and
lyocell ring spun yarns (14.8 tex X 866.14
twist per meter)

Production of viscose, modal and lyocell
single jersey knitted fabrics
(Stitch length 0. 35 (1), 0.40 (2) & 0.45 (3)
cm)

Sample code
(V1,V2,V3,M1,M2,M3,L1,L2,L3)

Dry, wet and fully relaxation treatments

Testing of dimensional and physical
properties of the single jersey knitted fabrics

Table 1. Properties of 100% Viscose, Modal and Lyocell stable spun yarns

S. No Yarn Properties Viscose Modal Lyocell
1 Nominal Count, tex 14.8 14.8 14.8
2 Actual Count, tex 14.91 15.10 14.98
3 Nominal Yarn twist, twist per meter 866.14 866.14 866.14
4 Actual Yarn twist, twist per meter 878.73 849.60 861.02
5 Tenacity ,g/tex 13.33 18.93 19.46
6 Elongation,% 18 12 15


The following relaxation treatments
were applied to viscose, modal and lyocell
single jersey knitted fabrics after knitting.

2.2 DRY RELAXATION

After being knitting, the knitted
fabrics had been taken from the machine and
were laid flat freely to relax for about 24 hr
at standard atmospheric conditions. The dry
relaxed dimensional properties were
measured at this stage.

2.3 WET RELAXATION

Wet relaxation was carried out in
water at room temperature, fabric was
allowed to lay for 8 hours, hydro extracted
and dried naturally for a day. At this stage,
the dimensional properties of the sample
were measured.

2.4 FULL RELAXATION

The fully relaxed condition were
obtained by subjecting the samples into
gentle agitation at 80 C for 2 hours,
tumbles dried at 80 C for 2 hours in a
domestic top loading washing machine, and
finally dried in the standard atmosphere for
24 hours. At this stage, the dimensional
properties of the sample were measured.



Article Designation: Refereed JTATM
Volume 7, Issue 3, Spring 2012
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3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

The dimensional properties of single
jersey weft knitted fabrics made from 14.8
tex viscose, modal and lyocell spun yarns
with three different loop lengths has been
investigated under three different conditions
such as dry, wet and fully relaxation. The
process of dry, wet and fully relaxation for a
knitted fabric involves change in the internal
force situation for the structure so as to bring
about an equilibrium state of minimal
internal energy.

3.1 EFFECT OF COURSE AND WALE
SPACING

Course and wale spacing are
directly related to stitch densities which
represent the changes in loop shape during
relaxation treatments. Figure 1. shows the
relationship between course spacing and
loop length of viscose, modal and lyocell
single jersey fabrics and Figure 2. shows the
relationship between wale spacing and loop
length of viscose, modal and lyocell single
jersey fabrics. The values of course and wale
spacing are plotted against the loop length
for viscose, modal and lyocell single jersey
fabrics. It is noticed that for the different
stage of relaxation, course and wale spacing
and the loop length are linearly related. It is
also noticed that, course spacing variations
of viscose, modal and lyocell structures
gradually decreased under dry and wet
relaxation treatments and comparatively
increases in fully relaxed states. The lower
course and wales spacing values were
reported with lyocell fabrics than viscose
and modal fabrics. A possible reason is that,
due to lower wet elongation of lyocell fibers
in the lyocell yarns, loop shape
comparatively stable state in the lyocell knit
structures compare than modal and lyocell
structures. Effect of loop length on course
and wale spacing of the viscose, modal and
lyocell single jersey knitted fabrics have
significant at 95 % confidence level.


Figure 1. Relationship between course spacing and loop length of viscose, modal and lyocell
single jersey knitted fabrics



Article Designation: Refereed JTATM
Volume 7, Issue 3, Spring 2012
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Figure 2. Relationship between wale spacing and loop length of viscose, modal and lyocell
single jersey knitted fabrics

3.2 EFFECT OF STITCH DENSITY

The use of stitch density or number
of loops per unit area of fabric is preferred,
since it is less affected by distortion. It is
observed that for the viscose, modal and
lyocell structures, the stitch density varies
linearly with the reciprocal of loop length.
Figure 3. Shows the relationship between
stitch density and reciprocal of loop length
for viscose, modal and lyocell single jersey
fabrics. Course and wale spacing are
directly related to the stitch densities of the
knitted fabrics. The lower values of course
and wale spacing in lyocell fabrics is
responsible for higher stitch densities in the
fabrics compare than viscose and modal
fabrics. Stitch density is directly responsible
for determining the dimensional stability of
the knitted fabrics. The influence of loop
length on stitch density of the viscose,
modal and lyocell single jersey knitted
fabrics have significant at 95 % confidence
level.


Figure 3. Relationship between stitch density and reciprocal of loop length of viscose, modal
and lyocell single jersey knitted fabrics

Article Designation: Refereed JTATM
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3.3 EFFECT OF FABRIC WEIGHT PER
UNIT AREA

Figure 4. Shows the relationship
between fabric weight and reciprocal of loop
length for viscose, modal and lyocell single
jersey fabrics. Fabric weight is plotted
against the reciprocal of loop length for the
viscose, modal and lyocell fabrics under dry,
wet and fully relaxed states. It is observed
that areal density of the viscose, modal and
lyocell fabrics is linearly related to the loop
length. However, lyocell fabrics shows,
higher areal density with decreasing loop
length compare than viscose and modal
fabrics. A possible reason is that, due to
more stitches per unit area compare than
viscose and modal fabrics. The influence of
loop length and relaxation states on the
weight of the viscose, modal and lyocell
single jersey knitted fabrics have found to be
significant.


Figure 4. Relationship between fabric weight and reciprocal of loop length of viscose,
modal and lyocell single jersey knitted fabrics

3.4 EFFECT OF RELAXATION
TREATMENTS ON Kc, Kw AND Ks

Kc, Kw and Ks are the geometrical
constants of the single jersey knitted fabrics
and depend on the actual configuration of
the knitted loop. The length and width
dimensions of the viscose, modal and lyocell
knitted fabrics are dependent on the
tightness factor. Figure 5. Shows the
relationship between Kc and tightness factor
for viscose, modal and lyocell single jersey
fabrics. The values of Kc, Kw and Ks are
plotted against tightness factor of viscose,
modal and lyocell knitted fabrics. Figure 6.
Shows the relationship between Kw and
tightness factor for viscose, modal and
lyocell single jersey fabrics. It is observed
that the difference in the values of kc, kw of
all the fabric is noticeable but small. It is
also found that, ks value of the lyocell
fabrics is increases proportionally with
increase in the value of tightness factor,
compare than viscose and modal fabrics as
shown in figure 7. The effect of tightness
factor and relaxation state on dimensional
constants such as Kc, Kw and Ks were also
studied for three different fabrics. It was
observed that, the tightness factor has no
influence on dimensional constants of the
fabrics. But, Kc and Ks were influenced by
relaxation treatments.


Article Designation: Refereed JTATM
Volume 7, Issue 3, Spring 2012
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Figure 5. Relationship between Kc and tightness factor of viscose, modal and lyocell single
jersey knitted fabrics


Figure 6. Relationship between Kw and tightness factor of viscose, modal and lyocell single
jersey knitted fabrics



Article Designation: Refereed JTATM
Volume 7, Issue 3, Spring 2012
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Figure 7. Relationship between Ks and tightness factor of viscose, modal and lyocell single
jersey knitted fabrics

3.5 EFFECT OF VISCOSE, MODAL
AND LYOCELL FIBERS ON THE
FABRIC PROPERTIES

Table 2. Gives the properties of
viscose, modal and lyocell fully relaxed
knitted fabrics. The changes in loop shape
factor of the fully relaxed fabrics made from
viscose, modal and lyocell is noticeable but
small. Loop shape factor is measure of the
ratio of the loop width to the loop length.
The fully relaxed fabric is made from lyocell
shows lower spirality compare than other
fabrics. It shows that, lyocell single jersey
knitted fabrics have minimum distortion.
Loop length significantly affects the
spirality in the fabrics at 95% confidence
level. It is also found that skewness of the
viscose, modal and lyocell fabrics decreases
with increases in loop length.

The thickness of the viscose, modal
and lyocell fabric is influenced by loop
length and fiber type. The loop length and
fiber type has significant effect on bursting
strength of the knitted fabrics. The fabrics
made from lyocell shows maximum bursting
strength compare than modal and viscose
fabrics, it is due to the structural
characteristics of lyocell fibers, reveal their
good mechanical properties. The special
properties of lyocell fibers is higher
strength, high degree of crystalline and
molecular orientation in comparison with
viscose fibers.



Article Designation: Refereed JTATM
Volume 7, Issue 3, Spring 2012
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Table 2. Properties of viscose, modal and lyocell fully relaxed knitted fabrics

Sample
code
Loop
shape
factor
Spriality
(degree)
Skweness
(%)
Thickness
(mm)
Bursting
strength
(Kg/cm
2
)
V1 1.18 9 20.46 0.440 0.647
V2 1.10 7
.
.5 16.51 0.438 0.443
V3 1.18 7 15.17 0.435 0.352
M1 1.11 8 20.02 0.441 0.844
M2 1.12 6.2 17.27 0.440 0.562
M3 1.15 6 15.29 0.436 0.422
L1 1.20 6 18.83 0.443 1.406
L2 1.10 5.5 16.27 0.440 1.055
L3 1.17 4.8 14.65 0.438 0.914

4. CONCLUSIONS

The dimensional properties of
viscose, modal and lyocell single jersey
knitted fabrics made with similar fiber
fineness and fiber length has been
investigated. The effect of the loop length
and dry, wet and fully relaxation treatments
on these properties was also investigated. It
was noticed that for the different stage of
relaxation, course and wale spacing and the
loop length are linearly related. Effect of
loop length on course and wale spacing of
viscose, modal and lyocell single jersey
knitted fabrics has significant. Lyocell
fabrics show higher areal density as
compared with viscose and modal fabrics.

It is also observed that the
difference in the values of kc, kw of all the
fabric is noticeable but small. However, ks
value of the lyocell fabrics is increases
proportionally with increase in the value of
tightness factor, compare than viscose and
modal fabrics. The loop length and fiber
type has significant effect on the thickness,
bursting strength and spirality of the viscose,
modal and lyocell single jersey knitted
fabrics. The fabrics made from lyocell
shows maximum bursting strength and
lower spirality as compared with modal and
viscose fabric.

The lyocell yarn knitted fabric has
shown greater advantages over viscose and
modal yarn knitted fabrics. Single jersey
knitted fabrics made with lyocell fibers
shows better dimensional properties
compare than viscose and modal fabrics.

REFERENCES

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shrinkage of plain knitted cotton fabric
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[2]. J iang Tao et al, (1997). Effects of yarn
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[3].Parmar M S and Srivastava S K, (1999).
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[7]. Sharma I C et al (1984).Dimensional
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