A Comprehensive Treatise On Perfumery

PEEFUMEET AND KINDRED
A COMPREHENSIVE
AETS.
TEEATISE ON PERFUMERY,
CONTAINING
A HISTORY OF PERFUMES,
A COMPLETE DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE RAW MATERIALS AND APPARATUS USED IN THE PERFUMER'S ART; THOROUGH PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS, CAREFUL FORMULA, AND ADVICE AS TO THE FABRICATION OF ALL THE BEST PREPARATIONS OF THE DAY:
INCLUDING
ESSENCES, TINCTURES, EXTRACTS, SPIRITS, WATERS, VINEGARS, POMADES, POWDERS, PAINTS, OILS, EMULSIONS, COSMETICS, INFUSIONS, PASTILS, TOOTH POWDERS AND WASHES, CACHOUS, HAIR DYES, SACHETS, ESSENTIAL OILS, FLAVORING EXTRACTS, ETC.,
AND FULL DETAILS FOR MAKING AND MANIPULATING FANCY TOILET SOAPS, SHAVING CREAMS, ETC., BY NEW AND IMPROVED METHODS.
WITH AN APPENDIX,
GIVING
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING DOMESTIC WINES, CORDIALS, LIQUORS, CANDIES, JELLIES, SYRUPS, ETC., AND FOR PERFUMING AND FLAVORING SEGARS, SNUFF, AND TOBACCO, AND MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES FOR VARIOUS USEFUL ANALOGOUS ARTICLES.
BY
S.
CRISTIAlSri,
PHIT,A1SEJ.PHI A.
CONSULTING CHEMISV ANI? >^B,yCM3R,
PHILADELPHIA: HENRY CAREY BA1RD &

810
CO.,
INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS, AND IMPORTERS,
WALNUT STREET.
LONDON:
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE & RIVINGTON, CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET.
1877.
COPYRIGHT BY
HENRY CAREY BAIRD

1877.
& CO,
PHILADELPHIA:
COLLINS, PRINTER.
70")
Jayne
Street.
PREFACE.
IN giving to the trade and the public generally the result of his experience of thirty years in the manufacture and sale
of articles appertaining to the perfumer's art, the author does
not claim to have originated every preparation here enumeHe does, however, claim that, with this experience, rated.
combined- with a knowledge of chemistry, both theoretical and practical, he is enabled properly to judge of the materials
of which these articles are composed, as well as of the most
simple and the right
mode
of
compounding them.
Accord-
ingly, he has adopted an original and simplified system in
the arrangement of the subjects and in the preparation of the various compounds, which will enable any one of ordinary
intelligence readily soon
to
fit
himself to produce every
valuable variety of perfume, soap, and cosmetic at present
known.
and formulas given have been carefully revised, and are generally devoid of all substances which can be at
recipes
all
The
injurious
and will be found
to be the
most pleasant and
the most useful for their various purposes possible. While a large body of them are entirely original, the author has for
obvious reasons refrained from adding his name to any but a few. In the Appendix will be found ^many recipes of a
kindred nature, which, while useful, either did not come under any of his special classifications, or were not deemed
of sufficient importance to be placed in the body of the book.
3G5945
IV
PREFACE.
Most of the existing works on perfumery belong to one of two classes: the first filled with old and obsolete, or impossible recipes of no use
whatever at the present time the second written in an ambiguous style and intended to direct attention
;
to the virtues of particular preparations
made and
sold by
the authors of these books, but with no intention whatever

that the reader shall be informed
how such
preparations are
actually made. In this connection, the present author would state that he has no secrets of this character which he has
attempted or desired to withhold from his readers. The climate of the United States is so diversified, and in
many
plants
parts so well adapted to the cultivation of numerous
which are useful to the perfumer, that the author
hopes by this treatise to awaken attention to the practicability of establishing flower farms and orange groves, as well
as to the utilization of
many indigenous plants now neglected, but with odors peculiarly adapted to the uses of this art. In a national point of view the industries of perfumery
toilet soaps are of great
and
importance
and with
us,
while
giving increased
employment
to labor, their
development will
to
add increased wealth

daily
receive from abroad
to the country,
and enable us
become become
a great
more and more independent of the

;
supplies
we now
and
finally, in time, ourselves to
large exporters of such products, for
which there
is
and growing market throughout the world.

PHILADELPHIA, Sept.
15, 1877.
CONTENTS,
CHAPTER
I.
INTRODUCTORY.
CHAPTER
CHAPTER
THE CULTURE OF FLOWERS,
II.
HISTORY OF PERFUMES.
III.
ETC.,
FOR PERFUMES.
CHAPTER
Allspice or
IV.
PAOK
MATERIALS USED IN PERFUMERY.

Pimento
; ;
Almonds
;
.45
Balsam of
46
.
Ambergris Peru
Aniseed
Star Aniseed
Ambrette
Balm
Balsam of Tolu
Bay; Bergamot; Bigarrade; Benzoin

;
Caraway; Cardamon
Cascarilla;
Cassia; Cassie
Cedar; Cedrat; Citronella; Civet; Cloves; Coriander Dill Fennel Elder Eglantine or Sweetbrier Flag
; ;
.... ...
. ;
.47
48 49 50
;
Geranium
Jasmine
Ginger Grass
Heliotrope
;
Honeysuckle
or
Woodbine
.
Hovenia
Iris
Jonquil; Laurel
.51
.
Lavender; Lemon; Lemon Grass

Lilac;
.52
f>3
.
Lily; Limette;
Melissa; Mignonette; Mirbane; Mint; Myrtle;
Mace; Magnolia; Marjoram; Meadow Sweet Myrrh
Musk; Musk Seed; Narcissus; Neroli Nutmeg; Orange; Olibanum; Orris or Iris Palm Oil; Patchouly; Petit-grain; Sweet Pea; Pink Rhodium Rose Rosemary Sage
.
;
.... ....
. .
.
54
55
.
.56 .57
.
58
Santal; Serpolet
Sassafras; Storax
Thyme
Tonquin; Tolu; Tuberose; Vanilla; Verbena Violet Vitivert Wintergreen Ylang Ylang
; ; ;
.59 M
CHAPTER
THE LABORATORY AND
Instruments for Distillation
ITS
V.
REQUIREMENTS.
The Water-Bath
by Steam Glass Alembics and Retorts Furnace with Hot Water to Melt Pomades and Philocomes
Distillation
.....
-67 .69
.
71
VI
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER
VI.
PAOE
TINCTURES.
Tincture of Ambergris ; of Ambrette Tincture of Archil of Alkanet of Benzoin
.
;
.72
73
;
of
Cinnamon
of Cedar
Tincture of Civet; Myrrh of Musk

;
of Cantharidcs
of Cochineal; of
Gamboge
.
of 74
of Patchouly of Styrax of Tonquin Tincture of Turmeric of Tolu Balsam of Peru Balsam of Saffron
;
;
Tincture of Santal
of Vanilla
75
76
.
Tincture of Vitivert
.77
CHAPTER
Extract of Cassie, No.
1
;
VII.
EXTRACTS AND BOUQUETS.

1
;
of Jasmine, No.
1
of Orange-flower, No. 79
of Rose,
No.
of Tuberose, No.
Extract of Violet
Essential Oils
80
Extract
d'
Acacia (Cassie)
d'Amande Amare
d'
.....
Ambrette;
Extract of
80
82
83
Bouquet d'Alhambra; D'Aspasia; Extrait Auberpine

Extrait
Bouquet d' Amour Brazilian Bouquet Extract of Bergamot Essence Bouquet Bosphorous Bouquet Centennial Bouquet Bouquet de Caroline Extract of Cedar of Lebanon Extrait de Chypr6 Caprice de la Mode Cashmere Nosegay
d'Ambre
...
.
84
85
86
87
Bouquet de Cytheria Cosmopolitan Bouq[uet Rose Bouquet des Dames Extract of Eglantine Euosmia
; ; ;
Extract of
Damask
88
.
.89
.
Flowers of Erin; Bouquet d'Imperatrice Extrait de Frangipani Florentine Bouquet Bouquet de Fee Bouquet de Flora
; . . ; ;
90
91
Extrait des Fleurs des
Champs
;
Extrait des Fleurs d' Italic
92
93
Bouquet d'Indes; Extrait de Fleur d' Orange; Extract of Geranium Gypsy Nosegay Hedyosmia Extrait an Heliotrope Extract of Honeysuckle of Hovenia Honeymoon Bouquet Extrait a la Jacinthe au Jasmin a la Jonquille Jockey Club Bou;
...
.
94 95
quet Kiss-Me- Quick
.90
97
Extrait de Lilas
; ;
Extract of Lily of the Valley of Garden Lavender Extrait des Fleurs de Mai ; Bouquet de Mille-fleura
....
of Magnolia
.
98
99
Extract of Meadow-sweet
;
of
Moss Rose
Extrait de
Muse
.
100
101
Bouquet de Marechale Extract of Narcissus; of New-mown Extract of Night-blooming Cereus Extrait d'CEillet Bouquet d' Odalisque Extract of Opoponax Oriental Drops
;
;
Hay
.
.
.102
.
103
Extract of Patchouly
Extrait de la Fleur de Pesche
.104
CONTENTS.
v
vii
PAGE
Extract of Primrose
Lily
Extrait du Pois dc Sontenr
Extract of Pond
105
Bouquet de
la
Reine
;
du Roi
;
106
Extrait de Reseda
;
Extrait a la Rose
Extract of Bendelatia
;
.107 .108 .109 .110 .111 .112 .113

.
Extract of Spring Flowers Extrait du Bois de Santal Sweet Brier of Syringia; Extrait Sauve . Extract of Summer Blossoms of Sweet Clover .
. ; ; ; ;
Extract of
.
.
Extract of Sweet Flag of Tea Rose of Tuberose . Extract of Tulip Bouquet du Turquie Extract of Vanilla Extrait de Verveine Extract of Violet Bouquet de Venus
.
; ; ; ; ;
Extract of Volkameria of Wall-flower of Wisteria West-end Bouquet Yacht Club Bouquet Extract of Ylang Ylang
; . .
; ;
114
CHAPTER
No. No.
1,
;
VIII.
AROMATIC AND TOILET WATERS. Eau de Cologne (J. M. Farina) No. 2, Cologne (French
;
re-
cipe)
4,
No.
3,
Cologne (second quality)

(Cristiani's)
.
.
;
119
Eau de Cologne
.
.
Cologne Oil (Cristiani's Cologne

. .
.
Essence)
121 Eaud'Ange; De Beaut6 de Bouquet de Fleur Eau de Grand Duchesse Florida Wr ater (Cristiani's) Eau de Fee 122 Geranium Water Hedyosmia Water Heliotrope Water .123 Eau de Lavand Lavand Ambr6 Hungary Water .124 Eau dc Miel de Millefleur de Romain 125 Eau de Sultana Eau Hygienique de Mousseline .126 Eau de Violette de Parme Eau Vulneraire Eau de Vanille 127 Verbena Water Bay Rum 128
; ; ;
....
.
.120
Cologne Vinegar Henry's Vinegar; Vinaigre des Quatre Voleurs Vinaigre a la Rose a la Violette
;
Vinaigre Aromatique (De Bully)
....
. .
.129
130
.131
132
133
Ammoniated Cologne Water

Luce
Volatile Essence
Aromatic
..........
CHAPTER
IX.
Spirits of
Ammonia
Eau de
SACHET POWDERS, ETC.

Bouquet Sachet
Sachet a
la
;
Sachet au Cypre
. . ; ;
134 135
136 137
Frangipane Heliotrope Sachet Geranium Sachet Magnolia Sachet Musk Sachet Millefleur Sachet New- mown Hay Sachet Patchouly Sachet Rose Sachet Verbena Sachet Violet Sachet
;
West-end Sachet Pot-Pourri Cassolettes Pastilles Fumantes Santal- wood Pastils

;
138
139
. .
.
Fumigating Pastils Perfumed Leather
Cristiani's
Pyrosmia
.
.140 .141
Vlll
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER
X.
PAGE
PREPARATIONS FOR THE SKIN.

Almond Lotion Amandine Cucumber Lotion Camphor Lotion Elder Flower Emulsion Cosmetic Cream of Lilies (Cristiani's) Balsam of Honey Cold Cream (Cristiani's) Glycerine Balm Lait Virginal Cold Cream of Violets Cucumber Cream Glycerine Cream Camphor Ice, with Glycerine (Cristiani's) Pistuchio Nut Cream
;
14.'5
.144
.
.14")
146
.147
or
Lotion
Aqua Ornatus
;
148
;
Sulphur Lotion Pomade Divine
Eukcsis or Essence of Soap
Emil Blanc
.
Camphor
Balls
luxe Lip Salve
Blanc de Perle
i:or<;E8
.149 .150 .151
AND PAINTS FOR THE FACE.

151
;
Bloom
of Roses (Liquid Rouge) Vinaigre de Rouge Rouge de Theatre Crepon Rouge Rouge; Pink Saucers Lily White or Pearl Powder
; ;
;
Chinese Card
. .
.152
Powder Rose Toilet Powder Poudre de Riz .153 Lycopodium Powder Cosmetic Almond Powder Sulphuretted Toilet Powder 154 Meen Fun Cosmetic Gloves Glove Cosmetic Glycerine Jelly for
Violet Toilet
. ; ;
;
the Skin
155
;
Lip Balm; Fard Bleu
Fard Noir
156
CHAPTER
;
XI.
POMADES AND COSMETICS.

Benzoin Pomade (or body) Tonquin Pomade Vanilla Pomade Yellow Body; Red Body Green Body
; ;
i:>s
.
Pomade d' Acacia Pomade Balsamique Bear's Grease Pomade; Benzoin Pomade Pomade an Beurre de Cacao 161 Castor-oil and Glycerine Pomade Cowslip Pomade Crystalline Pomade .162 Geranium Pomade Heliotrope Pomade 163 Crystal Pomade Pomade a la Jacinthe au Jasmin Jonquille Pomade Lavender Po164 made Limette Pomade Mayflower Pomade Macassar Pomade .165 Marrow Pomade Mille-ileur Pomade Musk Pomade Myrtle Blossom 166 Pomade Narcissus Pomade Neroli Pomade Orange-flower Pomade Oriental
. .
. . . .
.159 .160
167 Cream .168 Palma-Rosa Pomade Philocome Pomade Primrose Pomade Pomade Romaine Pomade Romaine a la Ambrosie 169 Quinine Pomade 1 70 Pomade a la Sultane Rondelatia Pomade Pomade a la Rose
.
CONTENTS.
Tuberose Pomade
Vanilla
IX
PAGE
Pomade
Verbena Pomade
Violet Po171
made, No.
1
;
Violet Pomade, No. 2
White Pond Lily Pomade

. . .
.
White Kose Po.
made
Ursalina
.172
173
Phenolin
Pomade
Pomade Hongroise
(for the
Moustache)
la
Pomade
.
Circ a Moustache
Hongroise (White) Philocome Pomade

;
Philocome a
Mousseline
74
Philocome Moelle de Boeuf

Cosmetics or Stick
Violet Cosmetic
175
.
.
Pomatums
.
.175 .176
CHAPTER
Huile &
1'
XII.
HAIR OILS AND HAIR TONICS.

Ambre
;
Huile Antique & au Millefleur
la
Huile Antique au Bouquet Fleur de Granger & la Heliotrope

. .
;
.178
;
au Jasmine
179
. ; ; ;
Huile Antique & la Rose & la Tuberose & la Vanille & la Violette 180 Huile Philocome Huile Hygienique Bear's Oil .181 Aromatic Oil of Flowers Coral Hair Oil Brazilian Hair Oil Chi. . .
;
;
nese Hair Oils
182
;
Grecian Golden Oil
Glycerine Hair Oil
Florentine Hair Oil
Indian
183
Hair Oil
Japanese Hair Oil; Macassar Oil; Huile de Noisette Rose Hair Oils
Cristiani's
. . .
.184
185
.
Chemical Cathairon; Cristiani's Cococydonia
18G
Eau
Lustral
187
Gloss
;
Brazilian
Amber
;
Glycerine and Lime-juice
Ammoniated Hair
188
.
Tonic
Tonique de The" Glycerine Hair Tonic Quinine Hair Tonic Camphor Lotion Wash; Bay Rum Hair Tonic
;
;
Eau Athenian
for the
.189
.190
Hair
Rosemary Hair
;
Curling Fluid Cristiani's Shampoo Lotion Bandoline & la Rose line

. .
;
Shampoo Liquid
.
Bando-
.191
Quince Seed Fixature or Bandoline
-CHAPTER
Lead Dye
;
XIII.
HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES.

Indian Hair
Dye
;
Egyptian Hair
Silver
Italian
Dye
.
Hair Color Restorer
Bismuth Dye
.
Colornerus (Silver Dye)
Another Silver Dye

.
Vegetable Hair
... Dye Dye German Vegetable Hair Dye Powder Blond Pommade Blonde
Hair
. . .
;
Dyes
Poudre Epilatoire
Depilatory
Poudre Subtile
;
Pomade
Eyebrow
Depilatory Liquid Pencil

;
.194 .195 .196 .197 .198 .199 .200 .201
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER
THE TKKTM,
TIIK (Jr.Ms,
XIV.
AND
TIIK BRKATII.
PAGE
Rose Tooth Powder (Cristismi's) Poudre Dentifrice Allemande Poudre Dentifrice do ]\Ienthe; Detergent Tooth Powder; CamphoChare* >al Tooth Powder rated Dentifrice Coral Tooth Powder Poudre Dentifrice Aromatic Tooth Powder
.
20 4
Ilygieiiique (Cristiani's)
Peruvian Tooth Powder

;
207 Soap Dentifrice Rose Tooth Paste Coral Tooth Paste; Charcoal Tooth Paste 208 Aromatic Pooth Paste Peruvian Tooth Paste Tooth Paste Soap Violet Tooth Paste 209 210 Odentine Paste (Cristiani's) Opiate Tooth Paste 211 EauRotot; Opal Dentiline Camphor Balsam Elixir Odontolgiqoe .212 Detergent Tooth Wash (Cristiani's) Oriental Styptic; Pyrethene Tooth Wash; Opiate Tooth Wash; Violet Tooth Wash 213
;
..... ......
;
. .
'205
206
....
.
.
Dental Pastils (Cristiani's) 214 Chlorine Pastils Pellitory Masticatory Pastils (Cristiani's) .215 Aromatic Opiate Masticatory Pastils Cachou Aromatise (Cristiani's) 21 G
. .
; ;
Arome dn Bonche Cachous des Dames

Lozenges
. .
(Cristiani's)
. .
.......
. . .
217
218
219
CHAPTER XV.
ESSENTIAL OILS AND THEIR TESTS.
Oil of
Almonds
;
226
of Cloves
;
;
Oil of Aniseed
of
Cinnamon
of
Bergamot
of Laven-
der
Oil of
of Hoses
of Sassafras
227
Thyme
.
Quantity of Essential Oils yielded by Various Plants
.228 .228
CHAPTER
CHAPTER
Extract of Almonds
;
XVI.
DISTILLED WATERS AND ESSENCES.
XVII.
Banana
of Black-
FLAVORING EXTRACTS AND FRUIT FLAVORS.

of Apricot
;
of Apple
of
berry Extract of Celery; of Cinnamon; of Cherry; of Cloves; of Cocoa; of Collee

Extract of Ginger; of Jargonelle Pear; of
237
238
239
Lemon;
.
.
of
Xutmegs; of
.
. .
Orange
Rose.
Extract of Orange Flowers; Extract of Raspberry
of Peach; of Pineapple; of
Plums; of
240
.
of Strawberry
of Vanilla
.241
CONTENTS.
XI
CHAPTER
TOILET SOAPS.
XVIII.
IMPLEMENTS AND INGREDIENTS.
CHAPTER
TOILET SOAPS.
White Soap Palm Soap Palm Soap with Rosin
Cocoa-nut Oil Soap
XIX.
PAGE
MANIPULATION.
270
272
273
274
CHAPTER XX.
TOILET SOAPS BY THE COLD PROCESS.
A Fine White
Almond Soap
Soap
.
Yellow Soap ; Half Palm Soap with Rosin

.
.......... ........
.
278 279
279
280
CHAPTER
White
Castile
XXI.
283 284
CASTILE SOAP FROM COTTON-SEED OIL.

Soap
Mottled Castile Soap
CHAPTER XXII. COMPOUNDING TOILET SOAPS.

Honey Soap
;
Glycerine Soap
Marsh-mallow Soap
Rose Soap
White Windsor Soap Brown Windsor Soap

Benzoin Soap
Ambergris or Ambrosial Soap
Lettuce Soap
Millefleur
;
287
288
289
;
Bouquet Soap
. . .
...
.
..
290
Musk Soap
;
Soap (superfine)
Violet Soap (superfine)
.291 .292
CHAPTER
Shaving Cream
Floating Soaps
.
XXIII.
MISCELLANEOUS SOAPS.
293
. .
.
...
^
.
294
295
296
Nymph
Floating Soap
Sapophane
or Oleophane
.
Powdered Soaps Soap Essences

;
Transparent Soaps Wash Balls or Savonettes
..
....
.
.297
299
Xll
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXIV.
MILLING AND Mori. DIM; TOILET
;
Bouquet Soap Rose Soap Marsh-mallow Soap Elder Flower Soap Oatmeal Soap Erasive Soap, for removing Grease Spots from Clothes
; ;
.... .......
.
SOAI->.
PAGE
305
306
.307
307
Soaps by Patent Processes
APPENDIX.
SECTION
SYRUPS, JELLIES, CANDIES
Strawberry Syrup
.
I.
THEIR FLAVORS AND COLORS.

.
.
. .
.312
313
Blackberry, Cherry, Pineapple, Peach, Raspberry, Banana, and
Syrups Orange, Catawba, Coffee, Rose, and Orgeat Syrups Sarsaparilla and Sherbet Syrups
.
.
............
.
Lemon
.
Lemon, Ginger, and Sarsaparilla Syrups Raspberry Syrup Raspberry Vinegar Fruit Jellies Currant and Quince Jellies Fruit Acid. Kissengen, Vichy, and Seidlitz Waters Spa and Saratoga Waters
Vanilla, Cream,
; . ;
.314 .315 .316 .317 .318 .319 .320
SECTION
Blackberry
Raisin
II.
LIQUORS, CORDIALS, DOMESTIC WINES, ETC.
Wine Wine
. ;
323
. .
.324
325
London Sherry Champagne; Burgundy Malaga and Claret Wines Champagne Cider Cider; Ginger Ale Spruce Beer Root Beer
; ; ;
.326
327
Mead; Pineapple Cider

Holland Gin
;
Cognac Brandy
;
Wine
Bitters
Jamaica Rum Aromatic Herb Bitters
Apple Brandy Baume de Vie

;
.328
329
330
LIQUORS AND CORDIALS.

Essence
d'
Absinthe.
Aniseed, Cinnamon, and Clove Cordials
Curagoa, Ginger, Mint, and Orange-flower Cordials Perfect Love, Noyau, Pineapple, Rose, and Strawberry Cordials
Vanilla Cordial
;
....
.
.
.331
332
333
Usquebaugh
Rum
Shrub
Vinegar
334
SECTION
SECTION
SECTION
III.
FLAVORS AND PERFUMES FOR SEGARS AND TOBACCO.

IV.
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

V.
MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS.
PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS.
CHAPTER
I.
INTRODUCTORY.
remarks, "Ointments and perfumes reOf all the five senses the faculty joice the heart." affords the most exquisite pleasure. of smelling Although to many it is the least valued, to the refined
SOLOMON
and cultivated
ciate
"
it is
the most esteemed
for those
fail to
who
neglect to develop this pleasant faculty
appre-
Nature's swift and silent working hand.
The garden grows, and
fills
the
Liberal air with sweetest odors/'
and are often led to breathe vitiated air. Thus poison and malaria enter the system by neglecting the
warning given by the nose, that outpost of the animal All persons using and appreciating percitadel. fumes become most sensitive to the presence of bad
air.
If refinement consists in the knowledge of the best mode of enjoying the higher faculties we possess, we
must learn
melody of perfumes, as well as the harmony of color, form, and sound, and
to distinguish the
enjoy sweet odors equally with all other pleasures so liberally bestowed to gratify our senses.
In a sanitary point of view, the use of perfumes 2
is.
18
in the highest
MEKT 'AK'D KINDRED

degree valuable.
ARTS.
For although we
cannot claim great curative properties for them, yet at the same time we hold that their moderate use is more beneficial than otherwise, and their refreshing
properties have often been storing the invalid to health.
known
to assist in re-
iMany think
the use of perfumes and cosmetics pre-
judicial to health, but in refutation it is only necessary to say, that when the cholera prevailed in Paris and
London,
all
those persons
who worked
its
in the labora;
tories of the
perfumers escaped
ravages
and as
further evidence,
when
the
Dutch on
the island of
Ternate destroyed the clove tree the colony suffered from epidemics and diseases unknown before. The large and increasing consumption of perfumery throughout the civilized world has made it one of the most important of the arts, and as we, in this country, increase in wealth and refinement, the use of perfumery keeps pace with other luxuries. The constantly increasing value of perfumery as an article of commerce, has led to the enrichment of many parts
of the world.
Several districts of France, Italy, India, and Turkey, where the flowers and materials are cultivated exclusively for the purpose, give employment to large and prosperous populations. It may be in vain to expect that the United States will at this time devote much capital and labor to the cultivation of the raw materials of perfumery, yet
cannot be long before we shall see the importance of it. With our varied climate and soil, and our usual enterprise, we may soon hope to rival the old
it
world in
its
present monopoly.
in the
The writer, after an experience of thirty years
manufacture and sale of perfumery and fancy soaps,
INTRODUCTORY.
is
19
led to think that he can usefully apply his knowledge and experience as a guide to the manufacturer
various articles
and dealer, to the proper formulae for preparing the now in use, and as a chemist and
pharmacist in cautioning the purchaser against deleterious and improper compositions. From this long experience he is impelled to the
preparation of this treatise by a knowledge of the many errors of judgment committed by those who
have no proper understanding of the harmony of perfumes, and who, from a want of this knowledge, often use improper odors, or such as are useless and wasted for the purposes intended, and who may, by his assistance, be led to the use of those which
are appropriate to their several manufactures. For, as it may appear to the uninitiated, each singular
to require a perfume properly adapted to its nature or to the use to which it is to be
article
made seems
applied.
Until quite recently, those who followed the art of perfumery endeavored to surround it by a mysterious secrecy. Now, however, all may learn the
secrets of the craft
;
for
although a chemical
art,
and
a knowledge of the elements of that science, and a study of the properties of the materials, will greatly facilitate an operator in it, such are by no means
absolutely essential to skill and success with a person of ordinary intelligence.
The author has
also a desire that his treatise
may
impart to the people of the United States the fact of the adaptability of their country to the cultivation of
much
of the material used by the perfumer. Hitherto our attention has been more particularly devoted to
the more useful arts, and
we have and
still
do import
20
from foreign countries nearly all the finer goods and the most important materials used. Yet there are so many parts of our country which possess the proper
climate for the growth and maturity of the flowers now used in perfumery, and which doubtless have
native plants from which new and pleasant odors may be extracted, that attention may properly be
called to the importance of this subject; so that the
plants
eries
may be
made
cultivated for its use, and new discovwhich will promote it, and thus add to our
wealth and our refinement and pleasure. To France we must yield the palm of being in the first rank in the art of perfumery to it we have
;
to look for the finest material used in its fabrication.
England, by virtue of her moist climate, has attained superiority in the growth of a few plants, whose odors are much prized. India and Turkey also devote much attention to the culture of many fine and To our own country we look indispensable articles. for but few articles now used by the perfumer. In rny history of perfumes I shall try to interest my readers with .a view of the progress of perfumery from the earliest times to the present how the ancients used it in all their sacred rites and how how it was it was gradually adapted to private uses studied and cherished by all the various nations which held in turn the sceptre of intelligence and how it was transmitted from Persia to civilization
; ;
; ;
Egypt, to the Jews, to the Assyrians, the Greeks, the Romans, and the Arabs, and finally to modern
I shall try to trace its course through all these different phases and record its progress down to the present period.
nations.
Who
has not experienced that indescribable cmo-"'
INTRODUCTORY.
tion that invades the
in
21
whole being, the soul melting
rapture,
when nature awakes from her slumbers
and shakes off the trammels of hoary and with her richest perfumes fills the balmy winter, air with refreshing fragrance ? Does it not silently fill each and one of us with homage and gratievery tude to the Creator of the great blessings bestowed upon us, and as Thomson sings
in the spring
"
Soft roll your incense, herbs, and fruits, and flowers, In mingled clouds to Him whose sun exalts, Whose breath perfumes you, and whose pencil paints."
*
"
-X-
*
1
-*
Fair-handed Spring unbosoms every grace. Throws out the snowdrop and the crocus first
The
daisy, primrose, violet darkly blue,
And
And
polyanthus of unnumbered dyes
The yellow
wall-flower, stained with iron
brown,
lavish stock that scents the garden round."
Besides these emotions excited by pleasant odors, they have other and charming influences on the mind.
are associated with our most pleasant enjoyments, and have also the property of refreshing the
They
memory,
recalling scenes in which they held a prominent part, or in which entered for pleasure or sorrow
"
The
smell of violets hidden in the green,
Pours back into my empty soul and frame, The time when I remembered to have been Joyful and free from blame."
people may be affected painfully odors, but it is generally imaginary. by While to some a musky scent would give a headache, Dr. Cathe odors of the citron would afford relief. pelli relates the story ofâ lady who could not bear the
delicate
certain
Some
smell of the rose, and fainted on receiving a visit from a friend' who carried one, and yet the fatal flower was
only
to
showing that the bad effects attributed p.erfumes by some persons are more or less the
artificial,
22

come from mental action
result of imagination, or
through association of previous ideas as to the effects. Desiring to write a practical treatise, I have endeavored to keep in view the capabilities and facilities which the American perfumer may possess for procuring the principal materials he needs in his art, and my experience has caused me to adopt a system of manipulation and terms most easily understood by him. The various terms and numerous systems of the European books result in much confusion to the American perfumer, and while there may appear a certain monotony there will be found in experience a And let me here remark that great variety in eifect. much attention should be bestowed upon the cleanliness and neatness, if not elegance, of putting up the different articles, the additional trouble and expense always being repaid in the enhanced price or In the articles of glassincreased sale of the article. ware this country now rival s Europe in its products, and is constantly improving. So also in the porcelain jars and earthen-ware a great advance has been made, but for many of the finest goods we still go
to Europe.
chapters on soaps, I have also kept to the most practical instructions, for, though a chemical
In
my
art, it is
most easily understood when plain terms
and results are given.

rials at
hand, or
Having all the different matemade ready for our use, there should
be no difficulty to a person of average intelligence in conducting the different branches and processes of
have given my formulas and manipulations, based upon practice, and have commented on new substances to produce new articles, or to improve the methods formerly in use.
the
art.
23
The American mind, open

taking a lively interest in
is
all
to
all
improvements,
that
is
new and
meri-
torious, constantly alive to new methods and the latest results. Let this desire continue, for it is this interest and this desire for improvement that stimulate
the manufacturer to
production of novelties, and
devote attention to the an endeavor to out-
strip his rivals in making something that will excel them, and from this rivalry, the people are benefited
in
having goods constantly improving
in style, ele-
gance, and quality.
CHAPTER
II.
origin of perfumery, like most of the ancient shrouded in obscurity. Arabia has long enjoyed, and still retains the name of the land of perfumes. The first mention of perfumes is of their use
arts, is
THE
man, in first discovering their nature, emotions of pleasure and gratitude, offered up their fragrance in worship to his deity; hence the derivation of the word, per (through) fumum (smoke), clearly indicating that perfumery was first recognized by burning aromatic woods, spices, and gums. Perfumes seem to have been first imported from
in his first
as incense, as
and were very important articles of commerce between that country and Egypt. The caravans
Persia,
that traversed the great deserts carried great quantities of gums and spices, as the Egyptians, the most
PERFUMERY AXD KINDRED ARTS.

civilized and cultivated of ancient nations, used them in great profusion, both in their sacred rites and for
the use of perfumes was transmitted to the Jews, thence to the Assyrians, the Greeks, the Eomans, the Arabs, and the Turks. The Holy Scriptures furnish us with abundant details of the use of perfumes, as Moses was commanded to
the temples should be spices and
oils.
private purposes. From the Egyptians
speak to the Children of Israel that their offerings to gums and anointing
In those' ancient days, the priests alone seem to have possessed the art and mystery of compounding
perfumes for private uses as well as for incense for their altars, and their use became very great, and some that have been excavated with the mummies retain their odor after the lapse of nearly four thousand years.
public or private, perfumes and flowers were used in great profusion, and incense was burned,
At festivals,
and music charmed the ear; showing the great luxuriance and refinement of that period. To the Egyptians is due the invention of the system of baths that was handed down to all Eastern nations, and imitated by Greeks an'd Romans, as also the custom of embalming the dead, which was also pactised by the Jews, as the Gospel mentions that Nicodemus "brought a mixture of myrrh and aloes about an hundred weight, then took they the body of Jesus and
wound
it
in
linen cloths
is
with the spices, as the

1
manner of the Jews

1
to bury."
The "Balm of (Jilead, so often mentioned in Scripture, was from a ridê of mountains running southward from Mount Lebanon, east of the Holy Innd, which was covered with the shrub that yields the gum, and
many
fields in
Palestine were
full
of these balsam trees.
25
The Asiatics acquired the use of perfumes and

practised
tensively
it
in great profusion,
and flowers were ex-
cultivated,
as
we
read of Nineveh and
Babylon among the wonders of the world, and descriptions of their gardens, their altars on high places. And, according to Herodotus, the consumption of perfumes was so great, that besides the production of
own country, they received from Arabia a thousand talents of frankincense, and he tells us of the great consumption of aromatics and perfumes, and of the great cost of many of these scents, and of their
their
universal use.
All these nations paid great attention to the hair and beard, which were usually lavishly perfumed and curled. Many wore wigs instead of their natural hair as a protection
The
after
against the heat of the sun. custom of anointing the whole body with oil
bathing was due, no doubt, to the same cause, as this custom is yet practised by the natives of Africa as a protection against the extreme heat of
the climate.
were as numerous as the stars, almost always associated perfumes with the presence of the gods and goddesses, and attributed skill in the compounding of perfumes to the marvellous, and gave the name of magicians to those who
deities
The Greeks, whose
prepared them. Venus is described as sprinkled with perfumes, and Pallas, the goddess of wisdom, anointed with oil when practising the exercises of
the palastra, and to their use beauty of Helen of Troy.
is
attributed the great
Perfumes were generally supposed to possess great medicinal virtues, so much so as to cause the recipes for many of the most celebrated essences and cos-
26
PERFUMERY
T A!X D
KINDRED ARTS.
metics to be inscribed on marble tablets in some of

their temples. Tbe rose in those no less beneficial than beautiful,
days was considered and formed the basis

in
civilization
of
many remedies. The Romans as they advanced
adopted the luxuries and habits of the nations they conquered, and used perfumes in the same profusion
seem to have acquired same general nature. used them at public festivals, and for private They and religious purposes, and after burning their dead mixed perfumes with the ashes in the funeral vase. So great and universal was this use of perfumes that their generals when going upon a military campaign carried essences and cosmetics to adorn their persons, and among the spoils in the camp of Darius, Alexander found quantities of these substances with
all
as the Greeks, from whom they the use, as they were of the
the luxurious appliances of the toilet. In the ruins of Pompeii have been discovered handbottles with perfumes
and ointments, and all the of the toilet and bath which tend to appurtenances show the refinement of the ancient Romans.
some
The Roman perfumers
called
Unguentari occupied
a certain part of the city in the Velabrum, and in Capua, a city noted for its luxury, they occupied a whole street of the town called Seplasia, and some of
their products are described as exceedingly costly. The custom of using flowers and perfumes at their
feasts
was very common, and no banquet was con-
sidered complete without them, and the decoration with flowers is described as very profuse, and even
their drinking cups were adorned with flowers. Distillation is said to have been discovered
by an
Arabian doctor named Avecinna, who was
also the
first to
27
apply the principles of chemistry so imperto earlier nations.
fectly
known
To him
also is as-
cribed the invention of rose-water, which was considered a great discovery, and was at the same time
used as a remedy for nearly all diseases, as well as a perfume and cosmetic. It was customary to use this perfume to sprinkle the floors of apartments, and bottles were formed for the purpose, which were also used to sprinkle guests when they arrived at a feast.
Mahomet encouraged
his followers, and as a part of the
the use of perfumes
among
makes frequent mention of them
many
attractions of his paradise,
and musk is often named by him. This perfume, so much admired by all orientals, is the strongest and most lasting, and it seems singular that the warmer
the climate the greater fumes, for we read of a
the love of strong permosque with the mortar of
is
which
perfume was mixed, which gave out perfume whenever the sun shone upon it.
this
its
The
oriental ladies use great quantities of c.ostly
perfumes and cosmetics, and the duties of the toilet are their most important occupation, no doubt tending to preserve their personal charms. Living in an atmosphere of fragrance, they are kept in a state of dreamy languor, which to them may be the nearest approach to happiness. They are noted for their skill in retaining their charms by these various means.
"Wortley Montague, who lived many years in eastern lands, gives us many interesting details of the habits and customs of the orientals, of their costumes and mode of dressing the hair, and
Lady Mary
the uses of cosmetics and perfumes. ~Jiv India-perfumes are used in the form of incense
in sacrifices offered in their temples
and upon their
>
altars,
is
and the private use of unguents and perfumes very great among the wealth^, and their priests color their faces with an ointment of saffron, and when the suttee was in vogue, widows pe'rished on
piles of
burning aromatic wood.
To
that country
we
are indebted for
much
of the celebrated otto of
rose, as at
Ghazepore, situated on the Ganges, near
Benares, the flower is cultivated for the manufacture of this universally admired perfume.
the celestials perfumes have been in use from the earliest times, and if it be true as they claim
Among
that their history extends to thousands of years before our own, they may have been in use for countless
and tinsel paper are burned as incense to their gods, and the consumption is very great, as Canton alone is said to have ten thousand manufactories. Morning and evening they burn them
ages.
Joss-sticks
before their idols.
Noted
for
their
many ceremo-
nies, they are also celebrated for their profuse use of perfumes in nearly all their observances of a public
or private nature.
The Chinese have an alkaline earth called "Kee\i," which they use as a substitute for soap, of which
they make but little but they use various cosmetics, and shave their heads except a tuft on the top,
;
giving occupation to a great many barbers, who also combine bleeding and other surgical operations with
their calling.
In Japan the customs are similar to those of China, and their perfumes are much the same, although,
being a more progressive country, they are gradually adopting the products, as well as the manners of foreign countries, and now import from Europe
many
articles of
perfumery and cosmetic.
The
ex-
hibit they
29
great
made
at our Centennial attracted
attention, and helpgd $o demonstrate to our countrymen the great advuflce which they have made in arts and manufactures. The use of perfumes became almost obsolete in
Europe
for
31
after the fall of the
Roman
empire, but only
brief space of time, for after the Crusades it again revived and soon became in general use. The gallant knights brought home to their ally-loves the
1
far-famed perfumes of the East, and specimens of the wonderful cosmetics-by means of which the beauties of
the harems were enabled to preserve their charms. Perfumers came into prominent notice in the
twelfth
century in France when Philip Augustus granted them a charter which continued in force for several centuries, and was renewed and enlarged by
Louis
and the craft became a very and we read of the use of their proimportant one,
in 1658,
XIV.
ducts in vast quantities. The Arabs, when they conquered Spain, introduced their numerous perfumes, and also the general use of their celebrated system of baths.
Alcoholic perfumes and essences do not appear to have been known before the fourteenth century, when Elizabeth, Queen of Hungary, invented the celebrated Hungary water, and is said to have by its use
retained her beauty until she was past seventy years of age.
In Italy, with the revival of the fine arts in the fifteenth century, luxuries were common among the
merchant princes, and perfumes were largely consumed, and were adopted by all people of fashion, and the first book on the subject was written at this Cathetime, which contained many curious recipes.
30
PERFUMERY AND KIXDRED ARTS.
brought with her to France a Florentine named Rene, who established the first perfumery shop in Paris, which was a great resort for the beaux and belles of that period. During the reign of Henry III., the use and abuse of perfumes was denounced by the satirists of the day, and a book published at that time gives many curious recipes for perfuming gloves and various cosmetics, with recipes for a specific perfume against the plague, and a marvellous water warranted to make the ladies who used it beautiful forever. Perfumes' in England were not in general use before : the reign of Queen Elizabeth, when they seem to have been brought from Italy, and .soon became fashionable. During the plague perfumes were exused as a preventive, and the prophylactic tensively property of scents cannot be doubted, for when the cholera prevailed in Paris and London those who worked in the perfumery laboratories were exempt from its ravages ; nor has it been very long since medical practitioners used to carry on the tops of their canes cassolettes filled with aromatics, which they
rinc de Medici s
held to their noses
when
visiting contagions cases.
Perfumes were in great favor in the reign of Charles II., "the merry monarch;" and the fashion of wearing patches on the face was common among the ladies, as it was supposed to give piquancy to the features and the use of hair powder was first introduced about this time, and continued for over two hundred years. Louis XIV. is said to have had a strong dislike to
;
perfumes ; but it may be doubted, for, by some, he is called the sweet-smelling monarch, and they were extensively used by his family and by all his
all
courtiers.
31
In the reign of his successor, Louis XV., were used in great extravagance, as fashion they ordained their use in ever-varying routine, each day
apartment of the palace being one day perfumed with tuberose, and the next with musk and saffron; nor were they confined to
having
its
particular odors, the
the fair sex, for the gallants gloried in all the favorite scents of their mistresses, and thus were often recognized by smelling of the favorite perfumes of the ones who enslaved them.
fair
Italy, in those days, excelled in the fineness of its products, and supplied the rest of Europe with the
best perfumes then in use; and
read of large sums being expended for Italian perfumery and cosmetics by the Court of France.
we
During the sanguinary days of the French Kevolution, the use of perfumes was very much interrupted,
but revived with other luxuries with the advent of Napoleon; and the Empress Josephine is said to have been passionately fond of them. About this time the venders of perfumery also sold various sorts of medicines and cure-alls, and were usually strolling
who addressed
charlatans, in gorgeous apparel, in elegant equipages, a gaping multitude extolling the vir;
tues of their nostrums
ious they were suppressed.
but when they became obnoxThe calling has since

until,
assumed greater consequence and importance,
at present, it is in point of respectability excelled
by none.
The use of perfumes
is
not confined to civilized
and refined countries, but is extensively practised among barbarous and savage nations though of
;
perfumes of sweet scent they

yet to
may know but
little,
them
a rancid smell
may be
the most pleasant.
32

chief anoints his hair and whole
The African
with
oil,
body
often perfumed with herbs; though this practice may be intended as a protection against the rays
of a scorching sun, and his well-polished skin be with him as fashionable as our shining boots.
may
Dr. Livingstone and other African explorers give very interesting accounts of the manners and customs
of that country, and often speak of the use of cosmetics and the fantastical modes of dressing the hair
or wool, to which they and attention.
seem
to devote
much
care
The
natives of Australia, though they have
many
and rare perfumes and flowers, seem to prefer a bad smell to any perfume, which is also said to be the The custom of tattooing, case with the Esquimaux. be called a permanent cosmetic^ is pracwhich may tised by the natives of New Zealand and by the Polynesians, who pride themselves upon the elegant
arabesques that decorate their persons. The Tahitian women, who are generally handsome, devote much care and attention to their hair, which is usually long and beautiful, and use cocoa-nut oil,
The South dressing it. American Indians also decorate their heads and hair with flowers and ribbons, and cut it straight off in
with
various
scents,
in
front,
something like the
custom
now
prevalent
among
the votaries of fashion.
In our country the Indians use a great variety of paints, that may be called cosmetics; and the various colors have a certain symbolism, as red denotes joy,
while black signifies grief. The chief gives much time and trouble to this ornamentation, and endeavors
to
make himself
frightful to his enemies or lovely in
the eyes of his squaw.
FLOWERS,
ETC.,
FOR PERFUMES.
33
the fashions and perfumery of our own time it were needless to write, as they are fresh in the
Of
give an opinion of their merits, as ladies alone are the best judges of what is fashionable and becoming, as well as to what is in good taste as a perfume.
memory
of
all
nor can
we venture
to
the present day perfumes have become a necessity to all civilized nations, and the art of perfumery has, with the aid of chemistry, attained a leading
rank, and the constantly increasing demand for fine odors testifies to their usefulness and efficiency.
At
.CHAPTER
THE CULTURE OF FLOWERS,
III.
ETC.,
FOR "PERFUMES.
to
OUR
readers have seen
how we have endeavored
trace the history of perfumery from the earliest times will now try to porup to the present period.
We
tray its present standing, uses, values, and great importance to commerce and to the world.
Flowers, from whatever point of view we regard them, are replete with interest, and are a source of
and pleasure to all mankind. There is no heart, savage or civilized, that does not feel their influence in some degree they gratify the painter's eye, they charm the poet's fancy, and science finds engrossing interest in studying their structure and
gratification
;
qualities.
That man was not created for toil alone is evident, and among the many pleasures given him for his
3
34

;
enjoyment, flowers are not the least important they delight him in childhood, they interest him in manhood, and they accompany him to the grave. How important then is the art of extracting their
fragrance; forwhile flowers please and gratify the senses while fresh, they soon wither and fade.
Shakspeare says
"But
Lose but
flowers distilled, though with winter meet. their show, their substance still lives sweet,"
Science teaches us the properties of perfumes, and art gives us the manner of their preparation; for
grow and yield their fragrance in all climates, but those that grow in warm latitudes are most proflowers
in odor, while those of colder climes are generally the sweetest. They -owe their fragrance to molecules that require many different modes of exlific
traction,
which we shall describe anon. Though from the East we still obtain many valuable and indispensable perfumes, the south of Europe is now the only reliable source of supply, Cannes, Grasse and lîce being the principal seats of flower culture
for
commerce; though we receive many odorous substances from India, Algeria, Turkey, Italy, and Spain, in fact wherever the plants and flowers grow
the most abundantly, and the extraction of their odor is the most convenient and profitable. From the geographical position of the south of
France and of Italy, this district possesses the most favorable climate peculiarly fitted for bringing to perfection the most odoriferous of flowers, such as
the rose, jasmine, orange, etc. Thus they are cultivated on the largest scale, and there are hundreds of houses engaged in their pro-
FLOWERS,
duction and
sale,
ETC.,
FOR PERFUMES.
35
which give employment to many thousands of people and riches to the State. In these countries each plant seems to have its alloted place, as Cannes excels in the culture of the rose, cassie, jasmine, and tuberose; Jîsmes of rosemary and lavender, so Nice is celebrated for its violet and mignonette, while to Sicily we look for the citron and the orange.
Italy we are chiefly indebted for the citric odors, as lemon, bergamot, cedrat, and limette, with neroli, petit-grain, etc. ; from Turkey we receive the
To
Algeria also is now making some progress in this manufacture, while Spain and Portugal furnish some odors, but not in
indispensable otto of rose.
the quantity that we should look for from their floral wealth. British India gives us cinnamon, cloves, patchouly, santal, ylang-ylang, and many odoriferous
China yields musk, civet, and ambergris, which, though not pleasant in themselves, yet blended with other odors give them piquancy, strength, and durability. England excels in two important perfuming ingredients, viz., lavender and peppermint, for which its moist climate seems peculiarly adapted, as the plants have a mildness of fragrance unknown in other counspices.
tries.
gums and
two or three perfumes that as yet have commercial value, though we may hope that our extensive country and varied climate will soon produce many valuable materials and novelStates has but
ties for the
The United
perfumer's use. The odors of plants exist in different parts of them sometimes in the wood, as in cedar and santal some:
times in the leaves, as
in
patchouly and thyme;
in
36
the seeds, as in caraway and tonquin; in the bark, as in cinnamon and cascarilla and again in the roots,
;
as in orris
and
vitivert.
Some
one odor; the orange, for instance, has from the flowers called neroli, one from called petit-grain, another from the rind called portugal or orange; and on this
plants yield more than three one
the leaves
of the fruit
account
is
perhaps the most valuable plant cultivated for the use of the perfumer.
The fragrance of plants

volatile oil
almost always due to a contained in small vessels in the petals

is
of the flowers and in the leaves, and is extracted by distillation with water or by absorption with grease
or
oil.
By means
of incisions in the tree
we procure
as benzoin and olibanum, and the which are not only valuable to the perfumer, balsams, but form an ingredient in many medicinal preparaIn extracting the odors of plants and flowers, tions.
many gums, such
four processes are
absorption, This latter expression, maceration, and distillation. mode, though thought by many to be the only method employed, is in reality the least so, for we distil
now employed, namely,
plants, barks,
and woods, but very few flowers.
In distilling flowers, plants, etc., they are now put into a sort of wire basket or perforated kettle sus-
pended
in the
still,
the material and carry with
allowing the steam to pass through it the odor of the plant

it
and be condensed with
in the receiver or
worm,
the fragrant molecules are collected either on the surface of the water or at the bottom, as they
when
may be
ment
By this simple improvelighter or heavier. all fear of burning the material is avoided.
is
This water, which
often distilled several times with
FLOWERS,
ETC.,
FOR PERFUMES.
37
fresh material, is sometimes of value, as is the case with rose and orange-flower waters.
The process of expression

oils is
to obtain essences or
confined to those of the citron family, as the lemon, orange, bergamot, etc., and has heretofore
been performed in a very primitive manner, generally by grating the rind and collecting the product with a sponge. But, at the present time, improved machinery for the purpose is made, which produces a greater
These rinds may be quantity of purer essence. distilled, but the result is not of so pleasant an odor. Maceration and absorption, which are the most
interesting processes, are both founded upon affinity the odorous molecules have for fats and
contact.
the
oils,
being readily absorbed by them when brought in
The
finest
flowers
greases, called pomades, and wards extracted by alcohol, which latter material, if placed directly with the flowers, would not extract
yield their aroma to to oils, which is after-
from them. There are two modes adopted for extracting these odors, and making the scented pomades and oils. Maceration is used for flowers of strong odor, such as the rose, orange flower, cassie, jonquil, and violet, and is conducted in this manner: certain quantity of grease is put in a pan, which is placed in a larger one filled with water in which is dissolved a portion of salt, called a marine bath, and, when liquefied, a certain quantity of flowers are thrown in and left to
it
digest for a stated number of hours, being frequently stirred and the temperature regulated, after which the contents are taken out and passed through horsehair bags
body
is
which process is repeated until the fatty sufficiently impregnated with the fragrance
;
38

Oil
is
of the flowers.
treated in just the same
manner, but naturally requires less heat than the
more
solid grease. By absorption, called in
France
enfleurage,
is
meant
the contact of the flowers with the grease and oil, but without heat, which would injure the delicate odor of
such flowers as the jasmin, tuberose, etc. To conduct this process a number of squares of glass framed with wood are provided, the glass being removable ;
is spread upon the glass in a thin layer which ridges are cut, and covered with fresh flowers and placed one frame upon another the next day these flowers are removed, and fresh ones substituted until sufficient odor is absorbed. The operation continues as long as the flowers are in bloom. When the grease has acquired a sufficiently strong odor, it is scraped off the glass, melted with a gentle heat, and strained. Oil is treated in the same manner, except that instead of the glass the frames have a wire bottom, on which are laid thick cotton cloths saturated with olive or benne oil, which, when they
the grease
in
are sufficiently impregnated with odor, are submitted to heavy pressure to extract the perfumed oil. These
frames are so constructed as to fit closely upon each other, and covered so as to exclude the air and
insects.
of enfleurage have lately been view the saving of labor and time, devised, having which, though ingenious, have not yet received any
in
Many new modes
practical application.
M. Millan, a French chemist,
has invented a means of extracting the aroma of flowers, in the form of a concrete substance, but it is
exceedingly costly, too much so to be used with economy ; it has, however, served to interest us and
FLOWERS,
ETC.,
FOR PERFUMES.
39
for,
show the imponderability of odorous molecules,

although at
first
sight it appears as a solid principle of scent, yet if treated several times with alcohol it loses its perfume, but is found not to have lost an
atom of weight. The three towns, Grasse, Cannes, and Nice, all in the south of France, are the places where the processes of maceration and absorption are princiThe latter is the most admirably pally carried on.
situated for procuring the flowers for the purpose; and its violets are superior to any others. By the
following statistics it will be seen what is the quantity of flowers consumed in this locality; the quantities
given are approximate, as are also their values

flowers, 3,000,000 Ibs.
.
.
Orange Rose
Violet
Cassie
Value about $300,000.

75,000.
50,00.0.
1,000,000
Jasmine
250,000
100,000
35,000.
50,000.
150,000
50,000
Tuberose
25,000.
From
this annual product are
manufactured one
million pounds of scented oils and greases, besides quantities of orange-flower and rose water, and about a thousand pounds of oil of neroli. There are also
distilled in these towns, oils of lavender, rosemary,
thyme, geranium, etc. To those who have looked upon flowers as simply ornamental, these figures may give some idea of their commercial importance. The famous otto or attar of rose is not made in these countries, but from Turkey and India is procured nearly all used in commerce. Very extensive
rose farms exist in Adrianople
and
at
Uslak (Turkey
in
(Turkey in Europe), Asia), and at Ghazipoor in
India, where this perfume, so valuable to the per-
40
fumer, is extensively made by means of distillation of the fresh leaves in copper stills, and repeating
with fresh leaves a number of times, collecting the distillate in cool receivers; 500 pounds of leaves yielding about an ounce of the otto.
Perfumes may be divided into classes. Linnaeus, modern botanists, divided them into seven three of which were pleasant odors, viz., the aromatic, the fragrant, and the ambrosial but the
the most learned of
;
;
very arbitrary, as the theories differ with every writer. For, I think, only an expert in the art of perfumery is properly able to give a just classifidivision
is
cation of the odors used in his business, as he might classify the geranium and sweetbrier with the rose,
lilies
with jasmine, jonquil with tuberose or hyacinth, To mignonette and cassie with violet, etc. etc.
all
enumerate
Paris
the odors
that
could be classified,
would occupy too much space.
may be
called the head-quarters of the per-
fumery manufacture, which branch of the art is an important item of the trade of that city and a large amount of capital is invested in it. These manu;
factures consist of scents for the handkerchief, toilet soaps, and innumerable cosmetics, and are exported
London may be ranked all parts of the world. next in importance as a centre of the art and many of their manufactures are of a superior class, especially in the item of scented soaps, which are largely exported to all countries. There are many manufacto
;
turers of perfumery in Germany, Spain, Italy, Russia, and the United States ; but the industry has never
reached the importance of those of the two cities named. In this country we are accused of making our business
in this line
by copying and counterfeiting the
articles
FLOWERS,
ETC.,
FOR PERFUMES.
41
of celebrity of Paris and London, in which accusation am afraid there is too much truth but there have
;
been and
turers
still
exist a
number of legitimate manufac-
not imitate the goods of others, but are content to stand on their own merits, and their
who do
manufactures rival the best products of Paris and London.

Paris, however, we must yield the palm of being the great centre of the art, for it is said to have a hundred and fifty houses engaged in the
To
employing, directly and indirectly, five thousand men and women, and a capital estimated at fifty millions of francs, with a product valued at seventy millions of francs, and an export of forty millions, which is sent principally to their neighbors in Europe, and to the United States and South America. London, the next in importance in the trade, exports about one hundred and fifty thousand pounds
business,
sterling of its products, principally to India, China, and Australia; but the products of its manufacture
can be found in nearly all parts of the civilized world or wherever her commerce extends. Eau de Cologne is perhaps next to Hungary water
the most ancient of spirituous perfumes, and is It in vogue throughout the civilized world.
still
was
invented about the middle of the last century, and is supposed to be best made at the place of its birth, the city of Cologne. It can, however, be made anywhere,
as its ingredients are mostly extracted from the leaves, flowers, and fruits of the citron species, which are
procured from the south of France, Sicily, and Italy, blended together in certain proportions.
42

Perfumes or extracts and bouquets
for the
hand-
kerchief are
various ways, principally by infusing the scented pomades or oils obtained by the processes already described in alcohol, to which
in
made
they yield their odors, and the product is the pure aroma of the flowers. As, however, the number of flowers cultivated for their odors is few, the skilled
perfumer can imitate nearly all others by a judicious combination of the six or seven he possesses, and in this consists an important branch of the perfumer's art, and may truly be called artistic, for it is done by studying the affinities, and blending the scents as a painter does the shades of color he uses. Toilet soaps, which are so important a branch of
the perfumer's
art, are
made
in
great quantities in
Paris, London, and the United States, and in fact more or less in many other countries. But to Eng-
land must be given the

its
first place for the quality of as there they take especial care to have soaps, the materials pure and devote a great deal of labor to
their proper manipulation. the more they are worked,

toilet use, it
All soaps are improved
in a mill,
and to perfect a soap for should be frequently melted and ground and the oftener this is done the better is the
product.
French soaps may be said to rank next, and are of more costly character, as the finest are made of the flower pomades and oils, which in other countries is seldom done. German soaps are seldom of good
a
quality, for
it
is
customary there
to use a great deal
of cocoa-nut
oil
them
a fetid
which gives odor, which no amount of perfume

in their manufacture,
effectually disguises.
They
are also very deceptive,
FLOWERS,
ETC.,
FOR PERFUMES.
43
as they have the property of retaining more alkali and water than other soaps, which causes them to melt away in a very short time when in use. The United States is constantly gaining the proper knowledge of the art of making fine toilet soaps, and some of our products will compete favorably with any made abroad. We must, however, admit that we have been sorely imposed upon by tallow chandlers and others mixing bone-fat and candle grease with an impure alkali, perfumed with cheap essential oils and called toilet soap, while it is not even fit for use in the laundry. Cosmetics, pomatums, washes, dentifrices, and the
requisites of the toilet are made in large quantities, but are so numerous that to describe them at length or descant on their respective merits would
many
Preparations for the hair are also very numerous, and vary according to the taste or necessity of the consumer ; for while one may
alone
fill
our volume.
need an oil, another may require a pomade, whilst some should use a wash or lotion. So in the selection
of a perfume it is impossible to say which is best, for it is a matter of taste, and you might as well dictate
what others may
eat or drink as to advise
them
as to
the choice of a perfume. But as this choice indicates in some degree the taste and refinement of the user,
so the vulgar will surely betray themselves choice of a common perfume.
by the
perfumes by passing a current concentrated essence, and by that of steam through a

volatilization of
it rapidly through the atmosphere of the apartment, promises to be of great utility, as a theatre or drawing-room may by this means be per-
The
means spreading
44

in a
few minutes, and it tends to purify the air. This process could be usefully employed in hospitals and other public institutions. Glycerine, an article of comparatively recent discovery^ is one of the most useful articles ever discovered for the purposes of the toilet, and its merits are now being fully recognized. And perfumers have not failed to avail themselves of its useful emollient properties, and to combine it with soaps and other cosmetics with the happiest results.
fumed
A word of
caution
may
here be said of the
many
which are often carelessly prepared by ignorant persons who have no proper ideas as to the deleterious substances found in the numerous formula3, for eruptions of the skin, which
lotions for the complexion
latter are usually the effects of diseases or constitutional conditions, and in their treatment should have
a skilled physician. Paii?ts for the face should also be carefully selected, as unprincipled quacks offer many pernicious articles
that they laud to the skies as beautifying and rejuvenating. Let them be avoided as far as possible.
Rouge when made of carmine or safflower is inocuous, and white paint, when made of a proper material, is harmless. The theatrical profession require the use of these cosmetics. To them we advise the utmost care to all others we would say,
;
" Nature paiuts the best color."
MATERIALS USED IX PERFUMERY.
45
CHAPTER
IV.

sketched the history of perfumes, both ancient and modern, we will now proceed to the more practical part of our treatise by describing the principal materials used in the perfumer's art. These
briefly
parts of the world, from the frozen regions of the pole, the milder regions of the temperate zone, to the burning sands of Arabia.
materials are
drawn from
all
To give every article used by the modern profession would require a very large space in our volume. Yet in writing a practical work we must endeavor
the perfumer acquainted with the most important ingredients used in his art, and which are
to
make
indispensable to
it.
The essenAllspice or pimento. Eugenia pimenta. tial oil of this useful spice is procured by distillation
from the unripe fruit, and is of very pleasant odor, and can be usefully employed for scenting toilet soaps in combination with other perfumes. Its odor resembles cloves, and it is a native of the West Indies and South America. Almonds. Amygdalus amara.. The bitter almond is a native of Egypt, and is grown in Algeria and Italy for its fruit, the kernels of which form a very
useful material for the perfumer. The oil expressed from the kernels is very bland, and enters into many
cosmetics.
The
essential oil distilled
from the cake or
residuum
is
much used
in essences, soaps, creams, etc.
46

Ambergris. Secretion of the Physeter macrocephasperm whale. This peculiar substance is found
lus or
floating on the sea on the coasts of China, Japan,
Greenland, and other places, and was long used before its source was determined, and was thought to be of the nature of yellow amber (a fossil), hence
its name (amber-gris) gray amber. It is the result of a diseased state of the animal Ambergris is not
of an agreeable odor in itself, but in combination with other perfumes it imparts a fragrance and a permanence very remarkable.
Aniseed.
Pimpinella anisum.
The seed
by
pod, from
which the
essential oil is procured
distillation,
has a very strong and pleasant odor which can be used for toilet soaps, etc., but it is chiefly used in
flavoring liquors, cordials, etc. Star aniseed. Illicium anisatum.
The
fruit of
an
evergreen tree growing in China and Tartary, the essential oil of which is distilled from the fruit, which
is
formed like a
star,
and
is
like the other aniseed

is
but with a more pleasant flavor, and
used
for the
same purposes.
It is a fragrant obtained by distilling the plant it is frequently mentioned in formula, but is at present old, and seldom used, and yet we think it might be, should it be
;
Ambrette, see Musk-seed. Balm. Lemon Milissa officinalis.
oil
cultivated in sufficient quantities to be made economically, which at present is not the case.
Balsam of Peru.
Myroxylon Peruiferus.
Is
native of the western part of South America, and is procured from incisions made in the tree, or by boil-
ing the leaves and branches in water.
It has a strong
MATERIALS USED
vanilla-like odor,
IN"
PERFUMERY.
47
and is much employed in the form mixed with other perfumes. Balsam of Tolu. Toluiferum balsamum. Is also a native of South America, and is procured in the same manner as the preceding one, and its uses are the same, but its odor is more pleasant. It has the
of tincture
consistency of resin, or when warm of treacle, is very soluble in alcohol, and, like all other balsams, gives permanency to extracts and bouquets.
Bay.
Laurus
nobilis.
An
evergreen
tree,
native of the East, but growing in Southern Europe and in the West Indies, where a pleasant perfume is
made of
water.
to
the leaves by distillation with
rum and with

is
They yield an essential oil, which make the rum or to perfume soap, etc.
used
Citrus bergomia. Bergamot. Growing in the south of France, Calabria, and Sicily, where the essential oil is expressed from the rind of the fruit, and has a well-known pleasant odor. "When fresh it has a green color; air and light soon deteriorate its quality. It should be kept in well-stoppered bottles in a cool dark place. This advice may apply to nearly all perfumes and essential oils except rose, which does not spoil. Bergamot is seldom used alone, but, combined with other essences, adds to their richness,
especially to all spice oils.
Bigarrade.
is
Citrus bigarradia.
its oil,
The Seville orange

distilled
from the flowers. This neroli is much known and used as a prominent ingredient in eau de Cologne, indeed an It can also be used in bouquets. indispensable one.
cultivated for
which
is
Benzoin. Styrax benzoin.

of Siam
Gum benzoin is a native
made
in the tree,
It exudes from wounds and Singapore. and soon hardens into a compact
48

is
mass, has a perfume resembling vanilla, which

fully
use-
and largely employed for tinctures, essences, bouquets, pomades, and toilet powders. Caraway. Car urn carui. Caraway seed grows in all parts of Northern Europe, and yields a very useful essential oil, which is much used for perfuming soap, in combination with lavender, cloves, or bergamot.
The ground seed are valuable for sachet powders. Cardamom. Aplinia cardamomum. Is a native
of the East Indies, growing wild in hilly countries. The seeds have a very pleasant aromatic flavor which
can be utilized
flavor
is
for various
purposes where a spicy
desired.
Cascarilla.
Croton
cascarilla.
wild in various parts of the West and the bark yields a pleasant Hence it cially when burned.
dient in
This shrub grows Indies and Mexico,
musky
is
odor, espea useful ingre-
making fumigating
Lauras
cassia.
pastils or for
perfuming
the East
tobacco.
Cassia.
From China and
Indies
we
of which
is distilled
receive this valuable spice, from the bark a very strong essential oil resemis
not so pleasant. It is used soaps, and in small quantities is blended with other perfumes, is useful in some esbling cinnamon, but
chiefly in toilet
sences, and Cassie.
is
also
used to flavor liquors and cordials.
Acacia Farnesiana.
and Italy for the odor of its a very valuable perfume, resembling
grown in France flowers, which have

Is
violets
but
stronger, which is imparted to pomades or oils by the process of maceration described in our last chapter. The fragrance is used in combination with others in numerous essences or extracts for the hand-
kerchief.

Cedar.
49
Juni perns Virginiana. An evergreen tree found in Syria and the United States, yields an essential oil which is quite pleasant, but not ranch The ground wood is used for sachet powders, used.
and the tincture

Cedrat.
in
some
dentifrices.
This plant is cultivated in the south of France and in Italy for its fruit, whose rind yields, by expression, a very fine oil, used extensively in eau de Cologne. Its odor resembles a
Citras cedrata.
mixture of lemon and bergamot.

Citronella.
Andropogon citratum.
distillation,
A native grass
oil,
is
found which
is
.
in
is
Ceylon, yielding a very strong essential
procured by
and
consumed
but
in quantities for
perfuming common not much liked for anything else.

Civet.
is
toilet soaps,
Secretion of the vivera civetta.
The
civet
found in India and Africa, and yields this well-known odor in a glandular secretion. It is very repulsive in appearance and smell when used alone, but when combined with other scents gives them a more flowery fragrance than any other substance known it resembles musk, but in some bouquets is
cat
;
more
useful.
Cloves.
Caryophillus aromaticus.
Zanzibar fur-
commerce the larger portion of this useful spice. The essential oil abounds in the whole but the unexpanded flower bud is the clove of plant,
nishes to
commerce. The oil is distilled in different countries, and is a very useful ingredient in a number of soaps, essences, pomades, and as a flavoring for cordials, etc. Coriander. Coriandrum sativum. Is a native of Italy, and yields an essential oil in small quantities,
very useful for
many
purposes, particularly to
mouth
pastils and tooth 4
elixirs.
50
Dill.
Anethum
graveolens.
Is
for
grown in England,
medicine as for
its
and
is
there distilled as
much
perfume, which is little known here. Dill- water is used by some as a cosmetic. The oil can be usefully combined with other odors to make a variety. Eglantine or Sweeibrier. This well-known plant
grows a very fragrant leaf, but does not yield its odor readily by the usual processes, and it is consequently imitated by the perfumer. Elder. Sambucus nigra. Grows in Europe and the United States. The odor of the flowers, which
fragrant but rather heavy, can be extracted by distillation. Elder-flower water is thought by many
is
to be a great cure-all, but as a perfume used.
it is
seldom
in
Fennel.
Anethum
foeniculum.
Cultivated
southern Europe for medicinal purposes and for its oil, which is procured from the seeds, and used in
but seldom enters into anything else. The sweet flag yields a Flag. Used as a pleasant-smelling oil from its rizome. for some kinds of liquors and tobacco, but flavoring not often in perfumery. Geranium. Pelargonium odoratissamum. The
toilet soaps,
Acorus calamus.
rose-leaf geranium, whose oil is procured by distillation, has a favorite rosy smell, and is largely cultiIt is used to adulterate otto of vated in France.
rose,
and also
for
and
is
generally
many different forms much admired.
of perfumery,
Ginger Grass. Andropogon nardus. Cultivated in the Moluccas, and often called geranium, but though similar in odor is not so pleasant. It enters into the same substances as the rose-leaf geranium, but in cheaper articles.

Heliotrope.
51
Heliotrope grandiflorum. Is a native of Peru, though not cultivated for its perfume, which is very exquisite, and which the perfumer has to imitate with other essences, but which is not very difficult to do, as the odor resembles a blending of rose
and
vanilla.
The flowers of this Honeysuckle or Woodbine. well-known vine have a very strong and pleasant jasmine-like odor, that might be extracted by enfleurage
and therefore the perfumer makes an imitation, the formula of which is given under
;
but
it is
not,
the proper heading.
Hovenia.
Hovenia unequalis.
Is
a beautiful
flowery shrub, a native of Japan, but the odor is not
remarkably pleasant, and the perfumer has recourse The odor resembles a to his art in its imitation. mixture of rose, lemon, neroli, and cloves in due
proportion.
See Orris. Jasmine. Jasminum

Iris.
odoratissimum.
Largely
cultivated in the south of France, in Italy, Algeria, and Tunis, and is one of the most useful of plants
for the perfumer.
The odor of the

oil
flower
is
extracted
or pomade, from which the by absorption with fragrance is procured by infusion with alcohol as before described, and enters into various bouquets.
in
Narcissus jonquila. Is also cultivated France for its flowers, from which the odor is obtained by enfleurage, but, not being abundant, it
Jonquil.
is
generally imitated, and quite successfully.
(See
Formulas.) Laurel. Laurus cerasus.
Grows
in France, Italy,
and the United States, and its fragrance is extracted from the leaves by distillation to procure laurel water.
52
It is
but seldom used, as its fragrance resembles bitter almonds, but is not so pleasant.
Lavandula vera. Extensively grown France and England for its oil, which is distilled from the plant when in bloom. The English oil is very much more pleasant than the French, and of
Lavender.
in
many times
where
oil is
it is
value. At Mitcham, Surrey, England, cultivated on an extensive scale, the best obtained. There is a still greater quantity made
its
France and Italy, but not so good or so valuable. Lavender water, or essence, has had a great reputation, and deservedly so, as its odor is very refreshing. The oil enters into many formulas, and is particularly
in
well adapted for soaps.
The French
also distil an oil from the lavandula

Its odor is not
spica, spike lavender, or oil of spike. so fine, and it is used for soaps only.
Lemon.
and Sicily
Citrus medica.
all
Calabria, Genoa, Spain,
cultivate this useful fruit for
commerce.
The
rind contains the essence, which is procured by expression, and forms a very important article of commerce, as it is used for so many purposes, as a
flavoring as well as a perfume. Owing to its rapid of oxygen it should be kept in strong well absorption
stoppered bottles and in a dark place. It is an important ingredient in eau de Cologne and some other
preparations. Lemon Grass.
Andropogon schoenanthus.
To
Ceylon, where the grass is distilled for its oil, we are indebted for this product. It grows, also, in many The oil has a very strong odor resemparts of India.
bling verbena, for which
it
is
generally substituted,
and
it is
also used for
perfuming soaps and pomades.

Lilac.
53
Syringa vulgaris. Grows abundantly in Its States, England, and elsewhere. flowers have a very pleasant odor, which could be extracted by maceration but is seldom done, and is
the United
universally imitated. (See Formulas.) Convallaria majalis. The lily of the valley Lily. is a native of Europe, but grows in all temperate climates.
but
is
odor could be extracted by maceration not, so the perfumer has to resort to an imitaIts
tion.
Limette.
(See Formulas.) Citrus limetta.
Grown
principally in
Sicily and the south of France for its fruit, whose rind yields a very fine oil similar to the lemon, though
pleasanter.
It is an ingredient in
good Cologne water

is
and
some
essences, and
its
odor
Is
particularly
refreshing.
Mace.
Myristica
moschata.
the
enveloping
rind of the nutmeg, which grows in Java and Penang. The concrete oil is extracted by expression from the
used in pomade and There is also a limpid oil procured by dissoaps. tillation, and used in combination to make variety by its spicy odor. The ground mace is also used in
refuse
nutmegs and mace, and
is
sachet powders.
Magnolia.
Magnolia glauca.
Is a native of our
own
country. but as it cannot be procured, a very good imitation is made with the materials we have. (See Formulas.)
Its flowers are exceedingly fragrant,
Sweet marMarjoram. Origanum majorana. joram is found in the United States, England, and France which latter country cultivates it for its oil, which is distilled from the herb and used only for
;
toilet soaps.
Meadoiv Sweet. Spirese ulmaria. This very sweet smelling herb is found in England and elsewhere, but
54
is
not cultivated in sufficient quantities for the perfumer's use, and he therefore makes an imitation.
Melissa.
See Balm.
The flowers of this Mignonette. Reseda luteola. in France, and submitted favorite plant are cultivated
to the process of absorption with grease or oil, from which the odor is extracted by means of alcohol.
Mirbane.
Nitro-benzole.
An artificial oil
of bitter
almonds is made chemically with rectified benzole and nitric acid in an apparatus consisting of a large glass tube in the form of a coil, divided in the upper end into two tubes terminating in small funnels. The
in the other.
acid flows slowly in one funnel, while the benzole flows The two substances meeting at the point of union combine with the evolution of heat, and the
product being cooled as

of carbonate of soda.
it
flows
down the worm is

made
is
it
col-
lected at the lower end and
washed
in a dilute solution
When
properly
has a
strong odor like bitter almonds, but used in soaps.
principally
Mint.
Mentha
well-known United States, the former being much used as a flavoring for candies and cord als, while the latter is merely
used in soaps in combination with other oils. It also enters into one or two tooth washes. Both and spearmint may be added to many peppermint
piperita essences are
Mentha viridis. These made in Europe and the

;
compounds.
is
The south of France Myrtle. Myrtus communis. the only place where the plant is grown for its
is
procured by distillation to make myrtle water, which enters into a popular perfume on the continent known as eau d'Ange. Myrrh. Balsamodendron myrrha. This gum resin,
perfume, which
grown
in
Arabia and India, from ancient times to
55
the present day, is now used by the perfumers only in tooth washes and dentifrices, where it is very useful. Moschus moschata. This very useful and Music.
indispensable secretion of the
from Thibet and China, and
deer comes to us found in a small pod attached to the belly of the male deer. The best Musk is an unctquality is received from Tonquin. uous substance, of reddish-brown color which soon turns black by exposure, of a very powerful odor, and
is
musk
although generally disliked in its pure state, mixed with other odors it is very much admired by most people, and often by those who declare that they do
not like musk.
To the perfumer musk is invaluable, and enters into a great many preparations, as essences, powders, pastils, soaps, etc. etc. Musk Seed. Hibiscus abelmoschus. Ambrette, as it is generally called, comes to us from the West
kidney-shaped seeds of a grayish-brown color, with an odor similar to musk and ambergris. In the form of a tincture it combines
Indies,
is
and
in small
usefully in
making low-priced
Narcissus
essences.
Narcissus.
flower,
odorata.
This
favorite
fra-
found
grance
in nearly all climates, is for its cultivated to some extent in Algeria.
Its
delicate lily-like odor is extracted by absorption with pomade, but, as it is rare and expensive, the perfumer
makes an
imitation.
Neroli, PorNeroli, Bigarade ; Citrus bigaradia. Citrus aurantium. Orange-flowers are grown tugal ;
in the south of France, in Italy, Sicily,
and Calabria,
on an extensive
lation
is
scale,
all
and the
oil
extracted by distilcitrus bigaradia
sent to
countries.
The
or bitter orange is the most prized, the essential oil The citrus of its flowers having the finest odor.
56
is
au rant him or edible orange yields a good odor, but it not so delicate. These odors are generally much
admired, and are necessary in the manufacture of good eau de Cologne. There are also made from the same trees two other oils, one from the leaves
called petit-grain, and one from the rind of the fruit called Portugal or orange. The orange-flowers when treated by maceration with oil or pomade yield with
alcohol a finer flavored perfume, and quite distinct from the nerolis.
Nutmeg. !N"ux moschata. The Indian Archipelago furnishes most of the nutmegs of commerce, which are used throughout the world as a flavoring or as a condiment. The essential oil by distillation is used in combination in many articles when a spicy odor
or flavor
is
desired.
The nuts ground
into coarse
powder can also be used in sachet powders. Orange. Citrus aurentium. From Calabria and Sicily we receive most of the oil of orange, which is expressed from the rind of the fruit, and is employed
for
perfumes. Like all of the oils from the citrus family, it absorbs oxygen very rapidly when
many
exposed, and should be kept well stopped and in the In pomade it has the same tendency, and does dark. not suit so well as some other perfumes.
Olibanum. Bos well ia serrata. gum resin found from the earliest times in Arabia and India, and used
as incense,
and
called frankincense.
The Catholic
and Greek churches
it as incense, while still the perfumer uses it in fumigating pastils and sometimes in the form of tincture.
burn
Oms or Iris.
odor of the root
Iris Florentina.
This rhizoma
is
The native of Italy and grows in other countries. is used in the form of a tincture in
57
it is
many essences and
bouquets, and powdered
very
useful in sachet-powders and dentifrices. Palm Oil. Elais Guiniensis. The palm that yields this useful oil grows principally in Africa, whence
it is
received.
and when
It is a fatty oil obtained by expression, fresh has a pleasant violet-like odor, but is It is
not available for perfume.
added to pomades
to give a yellow color; but its principal use is to
make palm
soap,
which
is
justly popular, and which
retains the odor of the
oil.
Patclwuly.
like plant
Plectranthus crassifolius.
in
sage-
China and India having a growing The peculiar strong odor much admired by many. essential oil is distilled from the plant, aud is much used by perfumers in making an extract for the handkerchief with the addition of a
It also enters into
little
rose to soften
it.
some other bouquets and essences.
Petit-grain. Bigarade; Petit-grain. Portugal. This perfume has been partially described under the head of neroli, and is obtained from the leaves of
the
same
plants,
and
in
but
principally
employed in various ways, making eau de Cologne and

is
bouquets, soaps, pomades, etc.
Pea, Sweet. Pois du senteur. The flowers of this well-known garden annual have a pleasant perfume", but as it is not cultivated for its odor the perfumer makes a compound which he calls by that name. Pink. Dianthus caryophillus. Clove pink has a
very popular odor, though its cultivation is so limited that the perfumer could not get together enough of them to make a pint of essence, so from his numerous
ingredients he makes a delightful imitation. To detect the innocent fraud would puzzle the oldest
connoisseur.
58

Rhodium.
Convolvulus scoparius. Called rose it yields an oil somewhat resembling and which was formerly used to adulis
wood because
otto of rose,
terate that valuable article.
from South America, and

powders. Rose. Rosa centifolia.
imported used principally in sachet
The wood
is
This may truly be called the queen of flowers, as it is universally admired for its beauty as well as its fragrance, and, though growing nearly all over the world, is chiefly cultivated for
commercial uses in Turkey, India, and France. In France pomades and oils are scented with it for the perfumer's use, and in India and Turkey it is grown for the manufacture of the otto of rose, which is obtained by distilling the leaves with water, and requires about 600 pounds to make a single ounce of the oil. When pure it is exceeding pleasant, and is also invaluable
to the perfumer for a great
many
it
are few odors with
which
purposes, for there will not harmoniously
combine.
Yet
for the finer extracts for the
handkera finer
chief the alcoholate from the

odor,
for
pomade gives
and one that it is impossible to dispense with, more than half his numerous extracts and bou-
quets.
The
dried leaves also enter into powders,

officinalis.
pastils, and sachets. Rosmarinus Rosmary.
This
useful
plant
is
cultivated in the south of
Europe
for its oil,
which is distilled from the flowers and leaves, and comes to us of several qualities, the best being from In eau de Cologne it is almost inthe flowers alone.
dispensable, for it blends so well with the odors of the citrus species, and it is equally useful in toilet soaps. This plant was formerly Sage. Sal via officinalis.
much employed
in
perfumery, but at the present time

its oil is
59
and the dried leaves enter into some sachet powders, but being used as a condiment it is considered common. tree well known Santalum citrinum. Santal. Its wood is burned in China, India, and Australia. in incense in the former countries, and its consumpsometimes used
in soaps,
tion for that purpose is very great.
The
oil distilled
from the wood is valuable in perfumery in many compounds, and has a lasting property available to the
perfumer in
Serpolet.
many
ways.
T hymns serphilium.
Wild thy me, whose
odor
quite as pleasant as the cultivated herb, is distilled in the south of France, and enters with advantage into perfumes for soaps.
is
Sassafras.
Lauras
sassafras.
A native of North
America, having a very pleasant essential oil obtained from the bark of the root it is exported largely to
;
Europe, and is used extensively to perfume cheap soaps and to flavor various medicinal preparations. Storax. Styrax officinalis. This balsam is obtained in Asiatic Turkey, by incisions in the trunk of the tree ; it is of several kinds and qualities, the best being in yellowish-white tears mixed with a reddish-brown substance. This is scarce, and can
be but seldom obtained.

of storax
The most common form
is a semi-fluid black-and-gray substance, an odor somewhat like vanilla. Soluble in having alcohol, in which form it is sometimes employed in
bouquets.
Thyme. Thymus vulgaris. This herb belongs to a large family, all having a more or less fragrant odor. This species is cultivated in France and Ger-
many
for its oil,
which
is
used combined with other
60

etc.
perfumes to scent soaps,
The herb can
also be
usefully employed in sachet powders. Dipterix odorata. From Tonquin.
Para and
South America, we receive this valuable bean, which contains a volatile oil, a fatty oil, In the form of tincture with and benzoic acid. alcohol they can be used in bouquets and essences in powder they are useful in sachets, giving somewhat the odor of new-mown hay. They are largely used to perfume segars and tobacco.
Angustura,
in
;
Tola.
See Balsam of Tolu.
This exquisite flower is extensively cultivated in the south of France and Italy for the use of perfumers all over the world. Its odor is obtained by enfleurage with grease and
Tuberose.
Polianthus
tuberosa.
oils,
and
its
alcoholate
is in
constant use in numerous
bouquets, and always gives satisfaction when judiciously used. Vanilla. Vanilla planifolia. To Mexico we are indebted for this very valuable drug, which has a not
less favorable fragrance in perfumery flavor in confectionery, and for both
than valuable purposes

it
is
The true vanilla is the bean of a handsome vine, and, made into a tincture, it enters into a great number of fine extracts and bouquets,
largely consumed.
and also
in
powder
into sachets.
Aloysia citriodora. The lemon verbena is a native of Spain, where alone it is cultivated for The volatile oil is distilled from the commerce. Perfumers often leaves, and is generally admired. use the lemon-grass oil for verbena extract, but it has to be modified with other odors to make the imitation equally delicate. It is principally used in handkerchief bouquets.
Verbena.

Violet.
61
Viola odorata. There are violet farms near Nice and Florence, where this delicate flower is submitted to the process of enfleurage with pomade or oil, from which the perfumer extracts the odor with fine alcohol and, when carefully made, it is of This is the most exquisite and delicate fragrance.
;
costly of
all
flower perfumes, for the plant
is
small
and the flowers few, and it requires a great deal of space and labor in its cultivation, and also because
but a short time in bloom. The extract is frequently imitated with cassie, orris, etc. etc. Vitivert. Anatherum muricatum. Viti vert or kuskus is the rhizoma of an Indian grass, which is made into mats and blinds, called tatty, and when sprinkled with water in that hot climate emits a fragrance which is very agreeable. Its essential oil can be obtained by distillation, but it yields but a small In the form of tincture, it enters into some quantity.
it is
essences
para small evergreen plant, native to the tridge berry, United States and Canada, yields a pleasant and
powder, into sachet powders. Wintergreen. Gaultheria procumbens.

;
in
The
powerful volatile oil by distillation; but more used to flavor medicines than as a perfume, though in
combination
it
may
be used in soap.
odoratissima.
Ylang Ylang.
tree
Unona
Called the
flower of flowers, the blossoms of a very
handsome
growing in India and China, and but lately brought to public notice but it has proved a great favorite. The oil from the flower is obtained by distillation, and has an odor somewhat resembling the
;
jasmine. Thus far it has been quite costly, but as the demand increases so will its production, which
will,
no doubt, lead to a reduction
in its price.
62
PERFUMERY AND KINDRED- ARTS.
I have here given the perfumer a sketch of the principal ingredients for perfumery, used in his art
;
but there are very many more, general!}7 however, such substances as are of secondary importance, or such as are in common use or can be found at any drug store, and to describe which would be unnecesWhat I have described are generally used and sary. easily procured, and are, as I believe, sufficient for his purposes but if, in my formulas, I should speak of anything not here described, and with which he is
,
not familiar, he can, by writing to any large wholesale druggist in Philadelphia or New York, easily obtain
it
or information regarding
it.
CHAPTER
THE LABORATORY AND
ITS
Y.
REQUIREMENTS.
ALTHOUGH there are many

cal nature
preparations of a chemi-
which require some degree of knowledge of that science, I shall endeavor to avoid the technical terms used by chemists, so that it may be possible
my recipes to be prepared by others as well as by those familiar with chemistry. When treating of a chemical combination it may be necessary to use the
for
chemical term, but
if
possible I shall give the
common
name.
The books on perfumery, with which I have met, generally adhere to many old and obsolete forms, and
load their recipes with substances at once difficult to
procure and unnecessary. I shall try to give such recipes only that there shall be no such difficulty, and
THE LABORATORY AND

shall
ITS
REQUIREMENTS.
all
63
as
much
as possible simplify
the formulas
and endeavor to give such articles only as are obtainable, and are either the best or the most simple and
economical.
In preparing a laboratory for his use the perfumer should have several rooms, as it is essential that some branches should be separate from others. One is required for the manufacture and keeping of various
tinctures, essences, spirits, waters, etc., in their various bottles and in systematic order one or two
;
for stills, water-baths, displacers, receivers, macerators, filters, etc., in fact for all the necessary para-
phernalia of his art; as well as a room or a closet, cool and dark, as a store-room for essential oils and other substances which are injured by too warm a temperature, such as his finer pomades, etc. etc. If he makes toilet soaps he needs the aid of steam,
which, in the present state of the art, is almost indispensable, as without it he can seldom properly make
which he will need. Soaps should have them one or more rooms, light, airy, and free from dampness. Face, sachet, and rouge powders also require a room in which they can be prepared separately, for their own sakes as well as on account of the dust they convey to other goods, and if there is a store it should be neat and cleanly, so that the goods may be. stored, and the nicer work of finishing completed by the more delicate hands of
many
articles
appropriated to
females.
It may be thought quite unnecessary to give advice as to a proper system in the arrangement of the laboa certain place for his tinctures, infusions, ratory
extracts, essential oils, etc., those most handy that are the oftenest needed ; in fact a place for every-
64

its place.
thing and everything in
This advice
may
seem superfluous, yet a perfect system of the kind

facilitates all operations of this nature; for this is not a trade in which the necessary tools are found ready
to
his hand,
but an art where care and cleanliness
are indispensable.
While giving advice to the perfumer, and particularly to the novice, I must not conclude without a caution to him to avoid all materials that are improper
or dangerous to use ; to guard all his goods against any ingredients that will injure in any manner the person who uses them. The old books of recipes are
filled
with formulas that
if
not silly are pernicious
and do much more harm than good. If I give the usual form of preparations for an article of which I do not approve, I shall give my opinion of its merits or demerits with the proper caution in making and using it. In order properly to classify the different
articles the
perfumer makes, I shall adopt a system and give the recipes for tinctures, then for extracts or alcoholates, waters, oils, vinegars, pomades, powders, rouges, pastes, emulsions, hair dyes, etc. Distillation INSTRUMENTS FOR DISTILLATION.
the most important and interesting branch of the perfumer's art, as, by its assistance, the different
is
essences,
spirituous scents, essential
oils,
fragrant
waters, eau de Cologne, and the vinegars are made. The chief utensil is the alembic or still, a vessel of tin or tinned copper, and sometimes of glass. Among
many arts in which alembics are used, no one more frequently requires those of glass than that of the perfumer. This is owing to the volatility of much of the material to be distilled, and the consequent care and nicety requisite in the operation.
the
THE LABORATORY AND

The alembic (Fig.
separate parts
ITS
REQUIREMENTS.
65
1) consists of three distinct and the lody, the head, and the cooler.
A exhibits
the
first,
which
is
nothing more than a
It kettle in the shape of an inverted truncated cone. is walled up in brick and mortar, the flange rest-
BB
ing on the furnace, and serving to hold the body firmly in its bed. It is generally of equal breadth and depth,
with a bottom inwardly convex, so as to give greater heating surface, and a neck C C converging towards its opening. On this neck are placed a socket Z>, and
the
two handles
E E.
The capital or head (Fig. 2) of the still is made of tinned copper for larger vessels, and of tin or pewter It is cylindrical, terminating for smaller apparatus.
in a spherical
hood or cup.
F G H Us
opening
is
affixed beneath,
the cylindrical part, with a neck a a and so made as to fit nicely into the
C C of
soldered at &
the cylinder. 5
The extreme top still (Fig. 1). a little below the superior edge of &, In the centre of this head is a socket
the
66
.7T,
PERFUMERY
and
AOT)
KINDRED ARTS.
L Jj, called the Iteak of the alembic.
in the side is soldered a slightly conical pipe
The materials for distillation are put into the body, the head placed on, nicely adjusted and well luted, and the fire kindled in the furnace. By the action of
the heat, the volatile parts are disengaged in vapor, and collect in the capital, from whence they pass
through the beak into the cooler or third piece, where they are refrigerated and condensed hence its name. This refrigerator is of various forms sometimes a tube extended to some length then, again, it is spiral, and takes the title of worm ; but this shape
;
renders
its
cleansing
difficult.
Here, below,
is
a con-
densing apparatus, economical, convenient, and simple.

Fig.
3.
It consists of three cylindrical tubes,
A B CD EF,
each three feet long, and soldered one to the other, so as to form a continued connection. The first is conifor the reception of the beak of the still, it is soldered together with which it is luted at to the end of the second tube Z>, forming a nozzle.
cal at
A,
These two joined together are soldered to a cylinGr, having a screw at its extremity, and covered with a stopper H, cut with a corresponding screw, and fixed together with intervening
drical copper ferule
leather washers, so as to insure a hermetical jointure
THE LABORATORY AND
ITS
REQUIREMENTS.
67
and of the two tubes simultaneously. The tubes The whole apparatus is J^-Zâre similarly adjusted. IF, in a bath M, which fixed, at the points
CD
AG
with cold water constantly renewed, during distillation, by the entrance of fresh water at the bottom, which drives off, through a tube, the water which becomes heated, and then always occupying
is filled
The modus operandi the uppermost part of the bath. The vapors of this apparatus is easily explained.
enter into the large tube
A B, and
are there con-
densed and run
slowly in liquid form, into the tube (7, and from that again into slightly-inclined F, and, as they are continually in contact with cold water, the liquid soon cools to the temperature of the
off
atmosphere, and falls into the receiver through the tube F. If six feet of passage-pipe should be insufficient to cool the liquor, the apparatus can be enlarged
by merely increasing the number of tubes.
should be requisite that the breadth of the bath great; for instance, supposing the diameter of the
LM
It is not
tube
then seven or eight inches width are sufficient for the continuous renewal of the
water.
per.
A B at three inches,
This bath
is
The
of wood, lined with zinc or copconnections of the tubes are such as to
allow their cleansing at pleasure, by rubbing the interior with hair brushes and water until all smell
is
removed.
At
the bottom of the bath
is
con-
veniently placed a stopcock, through which to let off the water, after the completion of the distillation. THE WATER-BATH. This most useful fixture for
distilling very volatile substances enables the perfumer to regulate his temperature so as not to exceed
212 F.
It is a
movable cylindrical vessel of
tin,
or tinned
68
of the copper, fitting and sitting in the aperture still (Fig. 1), and resting therein by its collar or
CC
flange JVJV, so that its bottom does not reach that of the cucurbit. It is placed in and taken out by the
Fig. 4.
handles
bath.
0.
The neck a a of the

still,
as to be used to the
capital is made so either with or without the
vessel represented for the materials,
Fig. 5 exhibits a water-bath complete, the inner by dotted lines being the recipient
and the outer jacket, the water-
holder or heating medium. The mode of operating by this latter plan is to place the selected materials in the kettle, lute on its head,
Fig.
5.
and through the socket
D (Fig. 1) pour in
the water.
The top of the

filled
capital, being externally concave, is with a layer of powdered charcoal, which, as a bud conductor of heat, prevents the condensation of
THE LABORATORY AND
ITS
REQUIREMENTS.
69
the vapors in that part of the head, and their consequent falling back into the still.
DISTILLATION BY STEAM.
This mode of
distil-
lation is particularly applicable for
making
distilled
water from leaves, flowers, roots, and similar substances, and the form of apparatus most convenient
for it is
shown by Fig.
6.
It consists of a tinned
Fig.
6.
copper body and head, of the form represented by the drawing, with a perforated false bottom Fig. 7,
Fig.
7.
which serves as a platform
for the support of the
charge of leaves or material. The steam is introduced through the pipe leading beneath the platform, and, over through the beaker into the condenser,
passing
carries along the oil which is taken up during its transit through the still, and deposits it in the Flo-
The beak rentine glass receiver, Fig. 8. justed and luted to the condenser, Fig. 3.
is
ad-
70

Fig.
8.
GLASS ALEMBICS AND EETORTS.
To procure
liquors of a very delicate perfume, recourse is had to rectification, that is, redistillation of the liquid already
distilled,
is
and
for this
purpose the water- or sand-bath
For the preparation of the vinegars, necessary. the acid properties of which are so corrosive of copper,
it is
always better to use glass or stoneware vessels. Glass retorts, as shown by Figs. 9 and 10, when of
is,
large size, are generally tubulated, that

Fig.
9.
provided
Fig. 10.
with a stoppered tube at the top of the arch or bend, so as to render their refilling practicable and easy, without moving them from their beds. The liquid may either be put in all at once through a funnel, or in detached proportions, and gradually, by means of a tube at S (Fig. 11) adapted to the
opening, and, at the same time, serving as a safetytube. To give more length to the beak of the retort,
THE LABORATORY AND

there
is
ITS
REQUIREMENTS.
71
sometimes added and affixed thereto a glass tube, open at both ends, and bulging in the centre, as
shown
at Fig. 11.
Fig. 11.
"We give the description of a furnace which we can recommend to the perfumer.
Furnace with Hot Wetter
to
melt Pomades
and
Pliilo-
comes.
Fig. 12.
AAA
B.
C.
A.
Masonry work.
Hearth, with grate.
Ash-pan.
D.
Chimney.
E.
Box
drical apertures, in each of which
of sheet-iron, containing water, having at the top three cylinis placed a pan containing the pomade or
72
philocome that is to be melted. The diameter of these pans is a little less than that of the apertures, so that they can be easily introduced in the box, and can be taken out after each operation. At two-thirds of their height
they have a strong edge which prevents their going to the bottom of the box. To put this furnace in operation, light the fire on the hearth B. The
flame circulates around the bottom and edges of the box, and rapidly heats into the aperture. the water it contains. Then introduce the pans F G
"When the substances they contain mould in the ordinary way.

different kinds of
are
melted,
This plan enables the perfumer to manufacture pomades at the same time, without the inconveniences that attend heating by a direct
fire.
CHAPTER
YI.
TINCTURES.
Tincture of Ambergris.
Ambergris (gray) Loaf sugar

.
.2 ounces.
.
.
-
"
Rect. alcohol
.8 pints.
the ambergris in an iron mortar with the sugar, adding a small portion of the alcohol at a time, pouring the mixture into the bottle, continuing to
Rub up
add the
spirit
by degrees
taken up.
place for a
Keep
month
until all the ambergris is the tincture in a moderately warm

in order to facilitate solution.
Tincture of Ambrette.
(Musk
seed.)
Ambrette, bruised or ground

Rectified alcohol
.1 gallon.
2 pounds.
Put together and macerate when filter.
for
two or three wee ks,
TINCTURES.
Tincture of Archil.
73
Archil
Alcohol
This tincture
.2 ounces. .1 pint.
is
of a rich, red color, and color hair- and tooth-washes.

is
used to
Tincture of Alkanet.
Alkanet root
Alcohol
.1 ounce.
1 pint.
Alkanet
is
a fine red color
when
fresh,
but being
fugitive will soon fade.
Tincture of Benzoin.
Gum
Mix
benzoin in coarse powder

. .
Eectified alcohol
.4 pints.
filter.
1 pound.
the ingredients
keep
in a
warm
place for a
fortnight with frequent agitation,
when
Tincture of Cinnamon.
Take of cinnamon
Alcohol
This
is
. .
in
.
powder
.
.4 pints.
1 pound.
useful in
mouth-washes and
dentifrices.
Tincture of Cedar.
Take of Spanish cedar

Alcohol
.
.
.4 pints.
1 pound.
A useful
tincture in dentifrices, and sometimes to
color essences.
74

Tincture of Civet.
Civet (good)
...
.
Orris root, ground

Rectified alcohol
.2 ounces. .4 " .8 pints.
the civet with the orris in an iron mortar, adding the spirit by degrees, and macerate for a month before using.
Rub
Tincture of Cantharides.
Spanish Alcohol
flies,
.
in
.
powder
.
4 ounces.
.4 pints.
Used
in hair tonics
and washes.
Tincture of Cochineal.
Cochineal (ground) Alcohol
2 ounces.
1 pint.
Useful as a coloring tincture in some essences.

Tincture of Gamboge.
Gamboge,
Alcohol
in
powder
2 ounces.
1 pint.
Used
to color yellow.
Tincture of Myrrh.
myrrh, in powder Alcohol, 80 Useful in tooth washes.

. .
Gum
2 ounces.
pint,
.1
Tincture of Music.
Tonquin musk Loaf sugar

.
Rectified alcohol
....8
.
.4 ounces.
6
pints.
TINCTURES.
Bruise the cut-up
75
the sugar in an iron mortar, adding small portions of the spirit at a time until all is taken up; macerate for a month before
filtering
musk with
and using.
Tincture of Santal.
Santal wood, ground
8 ounces.
Alcohol
.4 pints.
some
es-
I have often found this tincture useful in
sences and in tooth elixirs.

Tincture of Patcliouly.
Patchouly leaves Alcohol

.
.8 ounces. .4 pints.
the leaves are good, this tincture serves to color essences a greenish tint.
When
Tincture of Sty rax.
Styrax Alcohol
.1
pound. 8 pints.
This tincture can be frequently used to advantage in many kinds of bouquets, etc., but being very strong it requires judgment in order to avoid excess.
Tincture of Tonquin.
Tonka
bean, ground Rectified alcohol .
.8 pints.
2 pounds.
Is a very useful tincture in frequent demand to add to essences, bouquets, etc., which besides the odor
tends to give them permanency.
76

Tincture of Turmeric.
Turmeric, ground Alcohol
.2 ounces.
1 pint.
Tincture of curcuma gives a lemon-yellow color to

essences.
Tincture of Tolu Balsam.
Balsam of Tolu
Rectified alcohol
.8 pints.
1 pound.
Tincture of Tolu
various essences.
is
often a valuable addition to
Tincture of Peru Balsam.
Balsam of Peru
Rectified alcohol
.1 pound. .8 pints.
This tincture Tolu tincture.
is
used for the same purposes as the
Tincture of Saffron.
Saffron (Sativum)
.
Alcohol
.2 ounces. .2 pints.
many preparations.
A fine
and
is
yellow tincture, which has a pleasant odor,
often in request for coloring
Tincture of Vanilla.
Vanilla, chipped
. .
.1 pound.
Sugar-candy
Rectified alcohol
.7 pints.
1
"
"
Water
Beat up the chipped pods with the sugar, adding the water gradually, then the alcohol macerate the whole
;
EXTRACTS
ATCT>
BOUQUETS.
77
together for a fortnight before using. Vanilla is one of the most useful of perfumes, and improves nearly every bouquet it enters into and makes it lasting. Tincture of Vitivert.
"Vitivert root,
ground
8 ounces.
Alcohol
4 pints.
Vitivert can be used in this form in several esto the
sences and bouquets, and has the property of adding perfume and permanency of bouquets.
There are a number of aniline colors that can be usefully employed in coloring many preparations, and of which it may be well to have a supply on hand, for
many goods
the nose
;
are required to please the eye as well as but as far as the extracts and bouquets for
all
the handkerchief are concerned, should be avoided.
color as a rule
CHAPTER
VII.

I
HAVE
in the third chapter explained the
mode of
extracting the odor of flowers by maceration and absorption in the south of France and Italy, and have
remarked that the number of flowers cultivated

the purposes of the perfumer is that number judiciously used
for
somewhat
is
limited, but sufficient, in con-
junction with the numerous tinctures and essential oils, to compound almost all extracts and bouquets
at present in
demand.
78

There
is
quite a difference in the

call essential oils
names given by
essences or ottos.
different writers to the materials
and liquids used,
and some works
I prefer giving those that are the most common and well known, the term oils; not because it is strictly correct, but because it is the best understood, and
usage gives authority extracts, they are and waters. esprits, alcohol at es from the
all
to
it.
And
so with the
oils,
word
the
called
huilles,
essences,
all
oils,
I shall call
extracts
flower
pomades and
and
having a simple composition ; and bouquets, all that are of a compound nature, and intended to per-
fume the handkerchief
and waters,
all
those intended
for the toilet as well as the handkerchief, or for general perfuming, such as eau de Cologne, lavender water,
etc.
When
I have occasion to use waters in a form-
ula I shall so call them, as rose-water, etc. So when I speak of extract of rose, for instance, in the formulas, I shall so call
it,
and allude
first
to the alcoholates
by numbers 1 and 2, being the ing of the pomades.
and second wash-
Of these
a supply
alcoholates,
it is
always necessary to have
compounding the different odors and bouquets, and my system is to wash the pomades or oils with the alcohol twice; hence the numbers one and two, first and second qualities or strengths. Some of the French writers recommend a third washing, but I have never found it necessary, as two operations take out nearly all the odor, and what is left is not sufficient to perfume the pomade when bottled, to which use I always apply it.
ready for

Extract of Cassie, No.
1.
79
Pomade,
or oil of cassie
.
Deodorized alcohol
6 pounds. 8 pints.
the pomade, or oil, into a wide-mouthed bottle, or stone jar (or into a tinned-copper churn made for
Put
the purpose), and add the alcohol ; keep in a warm place, frequently stirring, for a month, when decant
and again subject the pomade to another eight pints of alcohol, and proceed as before
oft'
the extract
to
make
extract
No.
2.
Extract of Jasmine, No.
1.
Jasmine pomade, or Deodorized alcohol
oil
.6 pounds.
.
8 pints.
Proceed as with the extract of
cassie.
1.
Extract of Orange Flower, No.
Pomade, or
oil
of orange flower
. .
Deodorized alcohol
.8 pints.
6 pounds.
Proceed as with the extract of cassie.

Extract of Rose, No.
1.
.
Pomade,
or oil of rose
Deodorized alcohol
6 pounds. 8 pints.
Operate as for the extract of cassie.

Extract of Tuberose, No.
1.
Pomade, or
oil
of tuberose
"
Deodorized alcohol
.8 pints.
6 pounds.
Treat the same as extract of cassie.
80

Extract of Violet
Yiolet pomade, or oil Deodorized alcohol
.4 pounds.
.
8 pints.
Proceed as for extract of
cassie.
There are also pomades and oils of reseda, syringa, hyacinth, and jonquil, but they are seldom imported into the United States for the perfumer. When ordered direct from the seat of manufacture, he may
often get the article that is genuine in
name
only,
easily have made from the materials already on hand, the formulas for which I give in the chapter on pomades.
and which he could as
The perfumer having followed my system thus

and having
tracts
his tinctures prepared
far,
and his simple exan
ready, should now supply himself with assortment of essential oils.

Oil of almonds (bitter). " aniseed. " bay. "
"
Oil of lemon.
"
limette.
" "
"
lemon
grass.
bergamot. caraway.
cassia.
marjoram. mirbane.
"
"
u
" "
nutmeg.
neroli.
cinnamon.
coriander.
citronella.
orange.
petit-grain.
cardamom.
cedrat.
fennel.
"
"
"
peppermint.
pimento. palma-rosa.
rose.
"
"
"
gaultheria.
"
"
geranium. ginger grass.

lavender.
"
"
rosemary.
santal.
"
sage.

Oil of sassafras.
serpolet.
81
Oil of thyme, red. thyme, white.

*
" "
spike-lavender.
"
verbena.
spearmint.
ylang ylang.
nearly all, commerce, there
As
if
is
not
all
of these oils are articles of

difficulty in obtaining
not
much
such quantities as may be required, and those who deal in and import the essential oils have also the distilled waters of rose and orange flowers, with which the perfumer should supply himself. "When he has supplied himself with all these requisite materials, and has them made into the proper
in
them
form, and arranged with proper regard to convenience and to system, he is prepared to compound his extracts,
It
bouquets, and toilet waters. may be necessary here to call the attention of
the novice to the importance of studying the nature of his many ingredients, particularly the different
odors, with regard to the compatibility of their perfumes. For the making of perfumery is not only a trade, but may justly be called an art, for as the artist
blends and contrasts his colors on the canvas, the perfumer can mix and combine his odors so nicely
that he can simulate every known fragrance. over he must study the character of his odors.
are delicate
More-
Some
them he must add some of the many substances he has to give them permanency others are strong and require modifying with a more delicate or different odor good judgment and good taste are very essential to success in
and evanescent,
to
;
one may fill a this art, as they are in all others. bottle and cork it, but how many will be able to tell
Any
the quality of its contents 6
82

While giving the formulas
for the extracts,
and
bouquets for the handkerchief, I shall accompany each odor with suitable remarks, founded on the long experience I have had in their composition, as to their
and desirability perhaps the most important

qualities
as these perfumes are in the business, and most
in request at the present time.
Again, the new beginner may suppose, by a casual glance at the recipes, that there is great sameness but that would be an error, as a smaller or a larger quantity of one or more ingredients may make a
;
great difference in the result.
Extrait d' Acacia.
(Cassie.)
.
Extract of cassie, No. 1

"
.2 pints.
"
.
jasmine, No. 1
tuberose,
f
"
No. 1
.
Tincture of ambergris Orange-flower water (double)

Cassie
is
2 ounces.
8
"
not a favorite perfume by

is
itself,
but com-
bined as above
Extrait
much
liked.
d'Amande Amar.
(Bitter
.
almond
\ pint.
flowers.)
Extract of cassie, No. 1 Tincture of civet Deodorized alcohol

. .
4 ounces.
2 pints. 3 fluidrachms. " 2
\ 1 pint.
bergamot cinnamon Rose-water (double)

This odor to some
is
Oil of bitter almonds "

. .
when the other ingredients give
very agreeable, particularly it a soft, flowery odor.

Bouquet d Alhambra.
j
83
Extract of tuberose, No. 1

cassie,
2 pints.
"
\
No. 1
.
"
orange flower, No. 1

. . . .
"
|
Tincture of civet Oil of rose geranium

Rose-water, triple
" \ 1 drachm. \ pint.
A very pleasant perfume.

Bouquet d'Aspasia.
Extract of violet, No. 1 " rose, No. 2 jasmin, No. 2 Tincture of vanilla
.
.1
. .
pint. "
I
.
" "
"
"
musk
.
Oil of bergamot cloves
....
.
.3
.
I
1
drachms.
Orange-flower water, triple

Extract d'Amlrette.
f pint.
(Purple sweet sultan.)

. .
Extract of rose, No. 2 Tincture of ambrette

"
pint.
4<
ambergris
.
Rose-water, triple
.1
1| %
This formula gives a pleasant variety.

Extract of Auberpine.
Extract of cassie, No. 1 rose, No. 2

tuberose, Tincture of storax
orris
.1
.
1 J pint.
"
No. 2
. .
"
\ "
.5
.
84:
PEKFUZMEKY AXD KIXDKED ARTS.

Oil of cedar " fennel
.
ounce.
\
\
pint.
Rose-water, double
This, of course, is a fancy odor, and quite pleasant.
Extrait cVAmbre.
Extract of rose, No. 2 Tincture of ambergris

vanilla
.
1^ pint.
.
1^
|
" "
"
musk
|
i
"
Rose-water, double
"
Ambergris not having
in itself the
is
odor, the above combination a long while.
most agreeable very fine, and will last
Bouquet
d* Amour.
(Perfect love.)
. .
Extract of rose, No. 1

jasmin, ~No. 1
violet,
.1
.
1J pint,
" i
No. 2
.
"
Tincture of
musk
i
.
"
ounces.
"
ambergris
Eose-water, triple
.
2
C
This has always been a very popular essence, and one that is always safe to recommend; containing ingredients generally admired.
.Brazilian Bouquet.
Extract of
"
"
No. 1 tuberose, No. 2 orange flower, No.

rose,
.
.
.1 .1
2.
pint.
"
"
\
Tincture of Tolu
vanilla
-I" "
.
"
civet
i
4
"
a
Rose-water, double

Extract of Bergamot.
Oil of bergamot rose geranium
.
85
6 ounces.
\
Tincture of
"
musk
orris
" "
4
\
Deodorized alcohol Rose-water, double
3 pints.
"
This compound improves the bergamot, rendering

it softer.
Essence Bouquet.
(Or nosegay.)
1
.
Extract of rose, ]STo. Tincture of orris
.2 pints.
.
1 j
1
"
"
musk
Oil of rose
"
.
1 drachm.
neroli bigarade
"
bergamot lemon
2 ounces,
1 "
Rose-water, double
.8
There
consider
is
it
no perfume more popular than this, and I an improvement on the English, which
contains too
much bergamot.
ff
Bospliorus Bouquet.
Extract of
"
cassie,
To.
\
.
.2 pints.
"
.
jasmin, No. 2
orange flower,
]S o.
.
jfSTo.
2
.
"
|
tuberose, Tincture of civet
2
.
J i
"
Oil of almonds (bitter)
^ drachm.
Orange-flower water
| pint.
86

Centennial Bouquet.
Extract of rose, No.
1
.
jasmin, No. 2
tuberose, No. 2 Tincture of ambrette
.
f |
1 pint, "
"
"
vanilla
i
1
"
-mnoV musk
Oil of
lemon
verbena
santal
....
.
.
4
1 ounce.
"
J
.
. .
Orange-flower water
J 8
"
"
A compound
popular.
odor of
my
own, which has proved
Bouquet de Caroline.
Extract of
"
No. 1 violet, No. 2

rose,
.1 pint.
.
1
I
"
"
" "
tuberose, No. 2
.
Tincture of orris
"
ambergris
.
Oil of bergamot cedrat
...
.
.
J J
^ ounce. "
Rose-water, doable
.8
it
This
favorite,
handkerchief extract
has
and there
is
no reason why
always been a should not con-
tinue to be so.
Extract of the Cedar of Lebanon.
Extract of
"
rose,
No. 1
.
Tincture of ambrette
orris
1 pint. " 1 " A
EXTRACTS AXD BOUQUETS.

Oil of cedar " petit-grain
.
....
.
.
87
1 ounce. " "
Rose-water Deodorized alcohol

.
J 8
.1 pint.
.1 pint.
.
Extrait de Chypre.
(Cypress bouquet.)
.
Extract of rose, No. 1 Tincture of orris
1
i
"
"
Tonquin
"
vanilla
i
.
"
musk
ambergris Rose-water, double
Caprice de la Mode.
I i
i
"
"
"
(Fashion bouquet.)
.
Extract of jasmin, No. 1

tuberose,
cassie,
1 1
1
pint.
No. 2 No. 2
.
1
1 I
Tincture of benzoin
"
civet
.
"
i
^ I
"
Oil of almonds
drachm.
nutmegs
Orange-flower water, double
12 ounces.
Cashmere Nosegay.
Extract of violet, No. 1 " rose, No. 2 Tincture of benzoin
.
pint. a
a a
"
"
civet
Tonquin
.
a
.
Flowers of benzoin
Oil of patchouly santal
ounce. a
u
Rose-water, triple
88

Bouquet de
Extract of
cassie,
Cytlieria.
No. 1 jasmine, No. 2 tuberose, No. 2

T rose, ]S o. 2
.
1 1 I
pint.
1
i
"
musk
Oil of orange " cloves
. .
l
1
ounce.
*
Rose-water, double
i 10
Cosmopolitan Bouquet.
Extract of tuberose, No. 1 jasmin, No. 2

Tincture of orris
"
civet
1 pint. 1 " 1
1
Oil of bergamot
neroli
.
1 ounce,
l 8
ii
Rose-water, triple
Extract of Damask Rose.
"

"
pint.
No. 2 tuberose, No. 2

"
civet
.
"
1
1
.
"
cc
Tincture of orris
Oil of rhodium
J 12
ounce,
Bouquet des Dames.

"
"
(Ladies' bouquet.)
.
Extract of jasmin, No. 1

cassie, No. 2
.1 pint.
" J
.
tuberose,
]STo.
"

Tincture of ambergris
.
.
89
J
}
pint.
musk
Oil of bergamot " verbena
cloves
.
....
.
"
1 ounce. " _L 1 drachmpint.
Deodorized alcohol
Rose-water, triple
.1
Extract of Eglantine.
(Sweetbrier.)
.
Extract of
No. 1 cassie, No. 2

rose,
oris
.
.1 pint,
.
J
|
"
" "

Tincture of
.
.
Tonquin
Oil of verbena " neroli
....
.
J
|
"
drachm.
Deodorized alcohol Rose- water, double
.1
.
\
pint.
"
. .
The sweetbrier
all
is
perfumers try to imitate
a general favorite, and of course This is my idea of it.
the perfume.
Euosmia.
Extract of
" "
(Greek incense.)
.
rose, No. 1 jasmin, No. 1 cassie, No. 2
.1
.
pint.
" " "
musk
"
olibanum
. .
Oil of cedrat " rose " santal
....
.
f i i J
"
"
1 ounce.
| drachm. \ ounce.
90
This
larity
PERFUMERY AND KINDRED

is
ARTS.
which
an original essence, and deserves the popuit has obtained, as its fragrance is soft
and
lasting.
Flowers of Erin.
jasmin, No. 2 Tincture of orris
vanilla
"
.
pint.
Rose-water
Bouquet d'lmperatrice.
tuberose,
violet,
No. No. 2
.
1 pint. " 1 " 1 1
Tincture of vanilla
Tonquin
Oil of santal
! 2 drachms.
1
"
geranium
This
is
Eose-water, triple
8 ounces.
a very pleasant odor, that will always please.
Extrait de Frangipani.
Extract of orange flower, No. rose, No. 2

.
1
.
2 pints.
1
"
"
Tincture of
"
musk
vitivert
orris
i
.
J
J
"
"
Oil of santal
neroli
....
. .
1 drachm, " 1
"
\
rose
Rose-water, triple
.4 ounces.
is
This always popular
extract
named
after
91
Roman
family,
by
whom
it
was invented about a
thousand years ago.

Florentine Bouquet.

"
1^ pint.
J
jasmin, No. 1 cassie, No. 2

.
"
.
.1
Tincture of benzoin
"
civet
.
J I
.
.
" "
Oil of rose "
\ drachm.
\ ounce.
bergamot
Bouquet de Fee.
Extract of
violet,
(Fairy bouquet.)
No. 1 No. 2 rose, jasmin, No. 2

.
.1
.
pint,
1 \
"
"
Tincture of orris
"
"
ambergris
civet
.
i |
.
" "
"
.
Oil of neroli (bigarade) cloves

.
\ ounce.
.
'
I
.
Rose-water, triple
An
original
bouquet of pleasant perfume.
Bouquet de Flora.
(Nosegay of flowers.) 1 pint. Extract of rose, No. 1 " 1 jasmin, No. 2 " " \ orange flower, No. 2
. .
Tincture of orris
" " "
" " "
civet
ambrette
\ \
musk
2 ounces.
92
PERFUMERY
Oil of lavender
A^TD
KINDRED ARTS.
1 drachm, " 2
....
. . .
bergamot
cloves
neroli
" "
Orange-flower water
This
is
.6 ounces.
be
a very fine combination, and should
popular.
Extrait des Fleurs des Champs.
(Wild
flowers.)
Extract of cassie, No. 1 " rose, ]ST o. 2 jasmin, No. 2

Tincture of Tonquiii
civet
. .
.1 pint.
. .
1
1
" "
"
.
|
.
Oil of bergamot
"
...
.
i
1
"
"
2 drachms.
verbena

.
4 ounces.
Extrait des Fleurs d
ltalie.
(Italian nosegay.)
.
Extract of rose, ~No. 1 " orange flower,

"
"
No. 2
. .
jasmin, No. 2 violet, No. 2

.
1 pint. " \ " \ u \
Tincture of orris
i
.
"
"
"
musk
benzoin
I
\
ambergris Rose-water, double
i i
"
"
This is one of the oldest and best known of essences.

Bouqiiet dllndes.
93
(Indian nosegay.)
1
.
Extract of
"
rose,
No.
1J pint.
"
orange flower,
No. 2
.
Tincture of
musk
Tonquin
ambrette
\
J
patchouly Rose-water, triple

Extract de Fleur
d*
Oil of santal "
k 1 drachm. " 1
.8 ounces.
1 pint. " 1
Orange.
(Orange blossom.)
Extract of orange flower, No. 1

a
No. 2
cassie,
"
No. 2
.
.
" "
"
Tincture of civet
"
orris
i
\
.
Oil of neroli (bigarade)

Extract of Geranium.
v
2 drachms. 4 ounces.
(Rose geranium.)
Extract of
"
cassie,
rose,
No. 2 No. 2
. .
.
.2
. .
pints.
"
\
.
.
Tincture of benzoin
"
orris
"
.
.
"
ambrette
I
.
"
Oil of rose geranium (true)
Rose-water, triple
..
1^ ounce. b
94

Gypsy Nosegay.
Extract of jasmin, No. 1 orange flower, No. 2 " cassie, No. 2 of orris Tincture
.
1 pint. "
"
"
musk
ounce.
Oil verbena
Rose-water, triple
Hedyosmia.
"
orange flower, No. 1 cassie, No. 2
1 pint. " 1
Tincture of
musk
ambrette
.
i
1.
"
Oil of neroli " lavender " cloves

"
4 1 drachm. " 2
1
i
triple
.
"
angelica
Orange flower-water,
This
is
8 ounces.
an English odor and has numerous admirers.

Extrait au Heliotrope.
\f

orange flower, Tincture of vanilla
.
2 pints.
"
No. 2
2 ounces. " 2
1 drachm.
" "
civet
ambergris
.
Oil of almonds
Rose-water, triple
Heliotrope
is
4 ounces.
for
its
not
cultivated
perfume,
EXTRACTS
although very
A1STD
BOUQUETS.
is
95
This formula fine. and I believe a very good one.

Extract of Honeysuckle.
an imitation,
(Woodbine.)
Extract of
"
rose,
No. 1
orange flower,
tuberose,
]STo.
No.
2
.
1 pint. " 1
1
Tincture of Tolu
"
"
"
"
vanilla
!
_L
1<
musk
.
Oil of neroli, petale
almonds Rose-water.
1 drachm. 1
a
8 ounces.
Extract of Hovenia.
Extract of cassie, No. 1 orange flower, Tincture of ambrette

.
"
No.
.
2.1
.
1 J pint, "
"
orris
"
civet
Oil of neroli " rose

"
....
.
drachm.
limette
.^
"'
.
.
cloves
\ 8. ounces.
Orange-flower water,
triple
a native of Japan, but fs not a very but the English perfumers liking the pleasant odor, name have compounded' an odor which resembles that
is
Hovenia
of the above recipe.
Bouquet.
Like Bouquet
d' Amour.
96

Extra it a
la Jacintlie.
(Hyacinth.)
.
Extract of tuberose, No. 1 " rose, No. 2

.
.1
.
pint. "
jasmin, No. 2 Tincture of Tonquin

.
"
"
ambergris
J
.
"
"
Extrait au Jasmin.
Extract of jasmin, No. 1 " No. 2 Tincture of ambrctte

.
.1
.
.
1| pint.
"
J i
"
"
civet
Orange-flower water
"
Jasmin alone
is
somewhat heavy
is
slight modification
made
by a and permanent. pleasant
in odor, but
Extrait a la Jonquille.

,
.1
.
pint.
jasmin, No.
.
" "
"
orange flower, No. Tincture of orris

.
"
1.1
.
vanilla
I
i
"
"
"
civet
.
Rose-water
"
This, of course, is an imitation, but nevertheless a good one3 of pleasant fragrance.
Jockey Club Houquet.
Extract of
" u
rose,
No. 1 cassie, No.
1 pint.
1
^
"
u
.

Tincture of orris
. .
97
\ pint,
ambergris
"
"
musk
Oil of bergamot rose
...
.
. .
.1
ounce,
1 drachm.
.
Orange-flower water
This
is
.8 ounces.
name
of English origin, and has a great and a great sale.
./
Kiss-Me- Quick.
.
Extract of jasmine, No. 1 " violet, No. 2 " rose, No. 2 Tincture of vanilla
.
.1 pint.
"
i
I
.
"
"
" "
"
vitivert
orris
|
i
"
"
musk
.
Oil of bergamot rose

"
....
. .
1 ounce. 1 drachm.
cloves
Rose-water, double
.8 ounces.*,
-j
."
A fancy perfume
still in
vogue.
Extrait de Lilas.
(Lilac jblos'som.)
.
Extract of tuberose, No. 1 " cassie, No. 2

.
orange flower, No. 2 Tincture of orris

.
1 pint. " \ " 1
"
civet
J i
"
"
"
Rose-water, triple
The perfume of the lilac, like that fades; therefore we make an imitation.
7
flower, soon
98

Extract of Lily of the Valley.
Extract of tuberose, No. 1 jasmine, No. 2

Tincture of vanilla benzoin
Oil of almonds
.
.1
.
pint,
1
1
"
"

.
.
J
.
" "
Rose-water, triple
.....8
.
.
1 drachm.
ounces.
This
is
also
an imitation, but, as I think, an imoriginal.

.
provement on the
Extract of Garden Lavender.
Deodorized alcohol Extract of cassie, No. 2 Tincture of ambrette

.
1J pint.
1 | "
"
"
"
orris
^.
Oil of
Eng. lavender
.2 ounces.
.
Rose-water, triple
careful to use the English lavender is not nearly so sweet.
Be
oil,
as the
French
Extract of Magnolia.

"
violet,

rose,
No.
. .
1.1" "
.
.1 pint.
1
|
"
.
No. 2
.
Tincture of musk
Oil of cedrat
almonds
.....1
. .
.
"
1 ounce.
drachm.
Rose-water, triple
.4 ounces.
An
imitation of a delightful fragrance that will be
found excellent.
EXTRACTS AXD BOUQUETS.

JEJxtrait des
90
*
Fleurs de Mai.
cassie,
(May
.
flower's.)
Extract of
"
"
No. 1 tuberose, No. 1 jasmine, No. 2 orange flower, No. 2

.
1 pint. 1
"
vanilla
.
Oil of geranium
neroli
2 drachms.
1 l
2
almonds
Rose-water, triple
8 ounces.
Bouquet de
Mille-fleurs.
(A
thousand flowers.)
1 pint. 1 u
. .

" "
"
tuberose, No. 2 jasmine, No. 2
orange flower, No. 2 cassie, No. 2

"
1
2
Tincture of vanilla
musk
ambergris
Oil of neroli
" "
1 2 ounces. " 2 1 drachm.

2
'
"
bergamot
cloves
*
/
i
i
almonds
Rose-water, triple
"
8 ounces.
A perfume that has always been popular and always

will be.
100

Extract of Meadow-sweet.
Extract of
"
cassie,
r range
No. 1
flower,
No. 2
.
jasmine, No. 2 Tincture of Tonquin

.
1 pint. " 1 " 1
1 I
orris
1
4
1
civet
2 ounces.
"
.
Oil of
bergamot almonds
1 drachm.
8 ounces. Rose-water, triple pleasant perfume of delicate character.
Extract of Moss Rose.
Extract of
rose,
"
No. 1 No. 2
orange flower, No. 2 Tincture of orris

Oil of rose
1 pint. " 1 1 '2 " 1
....
civet
.
.
1
4
drachm.
rhodium
4 ounces. Rose-water, triple This will be found to be a fine perfume that will
improve by age.
Extrait de Muse.
(Musk
extract.)
Extract of rose, No. 2 Tincture of musk

"
civet
2 pints.
1
"
u
1
1
.
" "
ambergris ambrette
storax
Rose-water, triple
.4
i 1 ounce. u
will
a general favorite, though " that 1 hey cannot bear musk."

is
This
many
say

Bouquet de Marecliale.
Extract of rose, No.
"
1
.
101
orange-flower,
.
JN o.
.
Tincture of vitivert
"
"
"
1 pint. " 1 " 1
Tonquin
vanilla
orris
.
J J
"
"
Oil of neroli " vitivert
.1 drachm.
"
. . .
|
\
"
Rose-water, triple
.4 ounces.
;
This odor had at one time a great name

larity
its
was due
to the vitivert.
It is still in
popudemand.
^/
Extract of Narcissus.
Extract of jasmine, No. 1 cassie, No. 2 rose, No. 2 Tincture of vanilla

civet
.
1 pint.
1
\
"
"
i
.
"
"
"
orris
Oil of almonds
....
.
.
drachm
8 ounces.
Extract of Neiv-mown Hay.

"
"
cassie,
1 pint.
No. 2
.
1
\
"

.
" "
.
Tincture of Tonquin
"
vanilla
orris
"
Oil of cedrat
....
.
1 ounce.
\
verbena
102
This
is
PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS,

its
justly a very popular extract, and of the hay will be found, very natural.
odor
Extract of Night-blooming Cereus.
Extract of tuberose, No. 1 rose, No. 2 violet, No. 2

<fc
1 pint. 1
J
.
"
"
"
jasmine, No. 2 Tincture of vanilla

.
"
benzoin
"
.2 ounces.
.
musk
nutmegs
santal
neroli
.
"
Oil of
1 drachm, " 1
1
almonds
"
. . .
.
8 ounces.
sale,
This imitation has had an extensive

yet quite popular.
Extrait d'CEillet.
and
is
(Clove pink.)
.

"
cassie,
No. 2
.
.
1 pint. 1 "
Tincture of vanilla
i
.
"
"
ambrette
orris.
"
Oil of
cinnamon (true)
cloves
petit-grain
.
.....1
. . . .
1 drachm, " 2
Alcohol
\ pint. "
\
The clove pink has a beautiful compound closely imitates.
odor,
which
this

'
103
Bouquet
$ Odalisque.
'

"
"
"
jasmine, ~No. 1
tuberose,
No. 2 orange-flower, No. 2

.
.
1 pint. " 1 " i 1

i
Tincture of Tonquin
2 ounces.
musk
"
"
civet
2
1
1 drachm, " I
ambergris
.
Oil of santal
patch only Rose-water, triple

Extract of Opoponax.
8 ounces.

"
No. 2 No. 2 jasmine,

tuberose,
.
1 pint. " 1
.
Tincture of orris " benzoin

".
" "
Tolu ambrette
musk
2 ounces,
Rose-water
"
Under
this
though the
name there has been a perfume in vogue, name applies to a gum.

Oriental Drops.
Extract of
"
rose,
"
No. 1 tuberose, No. 2 jasmine, No. 2

vanilla
1 pint.
Tincture of orris
"

Tincture of viti vert
"
santal
. . .
J pint.
musk
Oilofneroli
santal
....
. . . . . .
i I
2
1
" "
1 drachm.
patchouly
"
"
"
rose
triple
. .
Eose- water,
This
lasting.
is
.8 ounces.
a good extract, exceedingly fragrant and
Êxtract de Patchouly.
Extract of
"
rose,
No. 2
.
orange flower, Deodorized alcohol

Oil of patchouly " rose
.
No.
.
.1 2.1
.
pint.
" "
.6
1
1J drachms.
Rose-water, triple
.8 ounces.
Patchouly, so long known and fashionable, is not so pleasant in itself, but when modified as above is
very pleasant and permanent.
Extrait de la Fleur de Pesclie.
.
(Peach blossom.)
.
Extract of cassie, No. 2 orange flower, No. Deodorized alcohol Oil of almonds
.
. .
1
1
2.1
.
pint.
"
"
Hose-water, triple
.3 .8
.
dr'ms.
ounces. ounces.
Liq. carmine (to color) Tincture of orris
10 drops.
8

Extract of Primrose.
105
Extract of Kose, No. 2

"
cassie,
.1 pint.
"
.
.
No. 2
.
jasmine, ~No. 2 Tincture of orris "

"
Oil of
"
.
"
.
Tonquin
ambrette
almonds
bergamot
Rectified spirit
.... .... ....

.
I I
2
"
"
1 drachm.
1 pint.
This will be found to have more odor and to be of " pleasanter fragrance than the flower, or an improve-
ment on nature."
Extrait du Pois de Senteur.
(Sweat Pea.)
.

"
.
li pint.
1
i
orange flower, No. 2 rose, No. 2

.
.
"
"
."
Tincture of vanilla
Rose-water, triple
i
\
not the flowers in sufficient quantities from which to make the genuine article, we have recourse to this imitation, which
is fine.
As we have
Extract of Pond Lily.
Extract of orange flower, No. 1 cassie, No. 2 " rose, No. 2

. .
|
1
]
1 pint. " "
Tincture of vanilla
"
civet
orris.
"
.
.
" "
108

Oil of cedrat " "
. . .
.
bergamot
cloves
ounce. " 1
-J'
"
almond
....
.
.
.
i
1 drachm.
8 ounces.
This has proved a very popular essence, and deservedly so, as the combination is very fine.
Bouquet de
la Heine.
(Queen's nosegay.)
.

violet,
1 pint,
No. 1
.
orange flower, No.

tuberose
.
21"
.
.
f
--
"
"
Tincture of orris
"
civet
i
.
"
"
Oil of bergamot
Rose-water, triple
.8 ounces.
.1 pint.
.
Bounce.
Bouquet du Roi.
" "
rose,
(Royal nosegay.)
.
Extract of jasmine, No. 1

violet,
No. 1 No. 2
. .
i
I
"
" " "
Tincture of vanilla
"
vitivert
"
"
musk
ambrette
.
.2 ounces.
.
.
2
1
" "
Oil of bergamot " cloves
...
.
2 drachms. 12 ounces.
EXTEACTS AND BOUQUETS.

Extrait a la Rose.
10T
Extract of rose, No. 1 " " No. 2

Tincture of civet
orris
.
2 pints.
1
"
Oil of rose
drachm.
Triple rose-water
4 ounces.
Extract of jKendelatia.
V Extract
"
of cassie, No. 2
rose,
No. 2
.
.1 .1
1
pint.
"
U
" "
vanilla
1
l
. . .
"
a
musk
.
Oil of lavender, English " cloves "

.
1 ounce. " |
"
bergamot Rose
i
.
"
| drachm.
Rose-water, double
.12
ounces.
This extract owes its great success to the peculiar combination of the two odors of lavender and cloves, which when mixed form a distinct odor that is universally admired.
Extrait de JZeseda.
(Mignonette.)
2 pints.
Extract of mignonette, No. 1 " cassie, No. 2

Tincture of orris
"
benzoin
Ton quin
Rose-water, triple
4 ounces.
8
"
108
PERFUMERY A^D KIXDRED ARTS.

Extract of Spring Flowers.

"
violet, ]STo. 2
.
1 pint. 1 "
.
orange flower, No. 2 Tincture of orris ambrette

.
Oil
Tonquin of bergamot
cedrat
almonds
.... ....
.
1 u 4 1 ounce.
l
2
1 drachm.

Extrait du Bois de Santal.
8 ounces.
No. 2 cassie, No. 2 Deodorized alcohol

Extract of
"
rose,
1 pint. 1 " 1 "
Tincture of orris
Oil of santal
.
i
.
"
1 ounce.
Tincture of santal
Rose-water, triple
J
l
pint.
Santal has a very pleasant odor, though for the handkerchief it is much refined and improved by the
above mixture.
Extract of Sweet Brier.
(See Ex. Eglantine.)
Extract of Syringa. Like Orange-Flower Extract.

Extrait Suave.

"
cassie, No. 2 tuberose, No. 2
pint.
1
.
"

Tincture of orris
.
109
\ pint.
musk
"
Oil of "
Tonquin bergamot
.
* i
"
1 1 ounce.
i
2
cloves
neroli
1
i<
u "
Rose-water, triple
8
Blossoms.
.
Extract of
Summer
Extract of orange flower, No. 1 " cassie, No. 2 Tincture of ambrette

.
1 pint. 1 "
1
2
" "
Ton quin
tolll
orris
musk
Oil of bergamot " cloves "
almonds
.... .... .... ....

.
J_
"
.1
1 ounce. I
i
1 drachm,
Boss-water, triple
Extract of Sweet Clover.
8 ounces.
Extract of
No. 1 cassie, No. 2

rose,
Tincture of orris
....
.
. .
1 pint. 1 " I "
Tonquin
ambrette
musk
Rose-water
....
2 ounces. 10
i
Oil of petit-grain
bergamot
"
cloves
110

Extract of Sweet Flag.
ARTS.

cassie, No. 2 Tincture of orris
.
.1 pint.
.
1 1
"
" "
Tonquin
"
civet
tolu
i J |
J
"
"
"
Sweet
its odor,
flag is another
name
for Florentine iris,
and
which resembles
violet, is
it
much admired by
many.
The
recipe improves
very much.
Extract of Tea Rose.
Extract of rose, No. 1 Tincture of ambergris
.3 pints.
.
musk
Oil of neroli petale " rhodium
.
.1
.
i " J
drachm.
"
"
Rose-water, triple
.8 ounces.
This
dium
a very fine form of rose essence, the rhogiving a pleasant change.

is
Extract of Tuberose.
Extract of tuberose, No. 1 Tincture of orris

.
.3 pints.
i
"
"
vanilla
I
I
" "
Rose-water, triple
These ingredients added to the tuberose softness and permanency.
give
it

Extract of Tulip.
Ill
Extract of tuberose, No. 1 violet, No. 2 " rose, No. 2 Tincture of orris
. .
.1 pint.
.
1
i
" "
musk
Oil of almonds
.
.1 drachm.
.
"
4 ounces.
Bouquet du Turquie.
"
cassie,
(Turkish nosegay.)
.
No. 2
.
1 pint. " 1
1 "
"

.
Tincture of musk
benzoin
i i
" "
"
Tonquin Oil of bergamot

"
...
.
.1
.
i
J J
cloves
ounce. "
lavender (English) Rose-water, triple

.
u
"
A good bouquet of strong and lasting odor.

Extract of Vanilla.
Extract of
rose,
No. 2
.
.1
.
pint.

Tincture of vanilla
"
.
1| J
"
Tonquin
. .
Rose-water, triple
is
is
J
bouquets,
Vanilla, though entering into so
many
seldom used by
of fine odor.
itself.
When desired, this formula
112

Extrait de Verveine.
Extract of orange flower, No. 2 " tuberose, No. 2 rose, No. 2 Tincture of ambrette
. .
1 pint. " 1
1
|
"
"
"
orris
"
. . .
Oil of lemon-grass " limette

.
.1 ounce.
"
.
Orange-flower water
4
and
is
" a very
This
is
a very flne recipe for verbena,
refreshing perfume.
Extract of Violet.
("Wood
.
violet.)
.
Extract of
"
"
violet,
"
No. 1. cassie, No. 2 rose, No. 2 tuberose, No. 2

.
.
1| pint.
"
I
.
"
"
Tincture of orris
i
.
"
ambergris Oil of almonds

Rose-water, triple
.
...
.1 drachm. .4 ounces.
An
extract of exquisite delicacy.
Bouquet de Venus.
Extract of
"
rose,
(Venus nosegay.)
. .
"
"
.
No. 1 jasmine, No. 2 violet, No. 2 cassie, No. 2
1 pint. " 1 "

\
"
.
Tincture of
"
musk
ambrette benzoin
"
. .
.
i i
i
" "
u
Rose-water, triple
113
\/
"
Extract of Volkameria.
Extract of
No. 1 tuberose, No. 1 jasmine, No. 2 rose, No. 2

violet,
.
.1 pint.
. .
1 \
|
"
"
"
Tincture of orris " ambrette
musk
Rose-water, triple
.2 ounces.
.
J i
6
" "
"
This perfume is an imitation of a fine odor, greatly esteemed by the French, the beau-monde being much The plant is a attracted by its euphonious name. native of India, but we have never seen the genuine
perfume.
Extract of Wall-flower.
Extract of orange flower, No. 1 rose, No. 2 cassie, No. 2 Tincture of ambergris
.
.
1 pint, 1 " 1
" "
"
Tonquin
I
.
"
"
musk
Oil of almonds
.
.-
.1
drachm.
Rose-water, triple
.4 ounces.
.
Extract of Wisteria.
Extract of
"
rose,
No. 1
1 pint.
cassie,
violet,
No.2
No. 2
. .
1
1 i
"
"
" " "
civet
orris
|
1
114

Oil of verbena
santal
.
1 drachm. 1
triple
4 ounces.
West-end Bouquet

"
"
jasmine, No. 2 rose, No. 2
1 pint. "
"
i
1
Tincture of cedar
2
.
Ton quin
1
5
"
musk
Oil of limette
"
1 1 ounce.
1 drachm.
triple
verbena
neroli
"
8 ounces.
Yacht Club Bouquet.

rose,
.
No. 1

Tincture of civet
"
orris
.
1 pint. 1 " 1
"
Flowers of benzoin
Oil of neroli (petale)
.
ounce.
2 dr'ms.
Rose-water, triple
4 ounces,
This
is
a very pleasant bouquet, and has had a long-
continued popularity.
Extract of Ylang Ylang.

.
Extract of jasmine, No. 2 " rose, No. 2

Tincture of orris
pint.
EXTRACTS
Tincture of civet
A~NT>
BOUQUETS.
. . .
115
J
|
pint.
Oil of ylang ylang
ounce.
Bectified spirit
(65)
1| pint.
This
is
new and
is
favorite extract of
East Indian
source, and
a distinctive odor.
The formulas given are those of the proper strength

sale; if the perfumer wishes a cheaper he can dilute them with rectified spirit of 65 article, strength, as he may wish, or with rose and orangeflower water, though they would he difficult to make clear, and it would be a loss of perfume to filter very often. The rose and orange-flower waters I use are those imported from France and Italy, and are far
for usual
superior to any
we
in
distil in this
keep and bouquets are intended for the handkerchief, all coloring matter that would make a stain must be avoided. In giving the formulas I have endeavored
cessary to
mind that
country. It is neas these extracts
to avoid all articles having any decided color, but if by chance the compound should have too much, fil-
tering through coarsely ground animal charcoal will
generally remove
It will also
it.
be seen that I have given the formula
for about four pints of extract, as the most convenient, as I thought, for the manipulator or dealer; should
he want a smaller quantity he can easily divide it, or if a larger, multiply it ad infinitum. Few perfumes for the handkerchief should be distilled, for the true delicacy of the flower odor is injured
it.
or lost, for any excess of heat will alter if not destroy I mention this as a precaution, because many
books advise
distillation for
The perfumer
many such preparations. in this country has several disadvan-
116
tages to contend with. His alcohol is generally made from corn spirit, while the alcohol used by the French
is
of brandy
spirit,
the bouquet of which
is
so dif-
from ours, and which no doubt gives the peculiarity to their perfumes, especially to the eau de Cologne, that we cannot hope to rival until such and yet there are some few odors spirit is attainable made from our spirit, when properly deodorized, that have as good if not better fragrance than theirs. But for citrous odors and for lavender theirs is superior.
ferent
;
would suggest,
that,
when the perfumer wishes
to
simulate the brandy spirit, a half ounce of acetic ether to each gallon of alcohol will have the desired effect.
In the preceding formulas for extracts and bouquets the reader will perceive I use a small portion of the This is distilled waters of rose and orange flower. because our alcohol comes to us at 95 in strength,
which
is
too strong for the extracts,
making them
too
pungent and volatile. The French recipes call for Hence the reason spirit fully 10 less in strength. for my formulas having the waters to bring them to
about that strength. If they should not be clear, a few grains of carbonate of magnesia in the filter will make them so. None of these odors should be bottled
or sold until they are three or four weeks old, as all perfumes made of spirit seem to require that length of time to get a proper blending of the odors; and if
well
made they improve with
time.
AHOMATIC AND TOILET WATERS.
117
CHAPTER
VIII.
AROMATIC AND TOILET WATERS.
"WniLE giving so many recipes for making the handkerchief odors, I may apologize for their great number; but they are selected from at least as many
more most
at
my command
demand.
I
in
as being the best, simplest, and have also adopted terms in
general use by druggists in this country to designate the materials used, as also the apothecary's or troy weight. I designate a tincture, such as has alcohol as
the solvent of the drug. Extracts, all the alcoholates of simple odors from the French oils and pomades, and
essential oils I call oils, that term being the best known. I repeat this as a reason for giving simple
terms as far as practicable, as I essay to write a practical work, and use only such terms that the operator may not be misled. I shall now proceed to give the formulas I have
adopted for making the weak or spirituous perfumes which I call toilet or aromatic waters, such as eau de
Cologne, lavender or Hungary water, bay rum, aromatic vinegars, etc. etc. The old books are filled with formulas, the ingredients of which, if not un-
known
uses.
to
modern and improved
tastes,
are useless
except as guides to a better selection suited to present
Cologne water or eau de Cologne, so universally
known and used wherever
civilization exists,
was
invented early in the eighteenth century, although
118
at first

it it
was
lost
nor has
called esprit de vie, or elixir of life; any of its popularity by being classed
only.
among perfumes
Innumerable formulas for eau de Cologne exist and are extolled to the skies by their authors, yet the proper ingredients are very simple, for it owes its well-deserved standing in the world of perfumes to
the fragrance of the
citron
plant.
lemon, orange, cedrat, limette, neroli, are the chief ingredients these odors, in greater or less variety, modified to the taste, enter into all
As bergamot, with rosemary,
genuine Cologne waters. Many writers on perwould persuade us that it is necessary to fumery take the whole range of aromatic substances and all the herbs in a book on botany to compound a true Cologne, but it were worse than useless to use such ingredients, for they give an odor foreign to the true eau de Cologne, and deprive it of the refreshing property for which it is esteemed. Owing to the use of alcohol from the grape spirit by the German and French manufacturers of Cologne, we cannot hope to attain the quality of excellence with our alcohol from the corn spirit, for it would seem that the grape spirit is especially adapted to the citron odors to produce the proper aroma for eau de Cologne. Yet with our spirit properly deodorized, a very good product can be obtained, when good judgment is used in selecting pure and fresh
materials.
The most noted manufacturers of Cologne

citron oils with the spirit
roli
distil
the
and afterward add the neand rosemary. Yet a very good eau de Cologne can be made by merely mixing the ingredients as given by my formulas. As a rule, when the odor is
119
delicate, like jasmine, tuberose, etc., distilling is in-
jurious, destroying its ethereal fragrance ducing a different odor.
and pro-
No.
"
1.
Eau
de Cologne.
.
.
(J.
M. Farina.)
fluidounces. "
Oil of bergamot
4
1J 3
3
| \
lemon
neroli,
bigarade
"
" "
rosemary
cloves
...
.
.
.
" "
"
lavender (best)
Deodorized alcohol
Rectified spirit
2| gallons. " 1|
No.
2.
Eau
de Cologne.
.
(French recipe.)
.
Oil of neroli (petale) "
ounces.
"
bergamot
cedrat
petit-grain
"
.3 .1
.
"
orange (Portugal) rosemary Deodorized spirit, 65

"
.
.3
.
5| gallons.
Mix
well and allow
it
to rest seven
days before
filtering.
No.
3.
Eau
de Cologne.
. .
(Second quality.)
.
Oil of bergamot " lemon.

"
4 ounces.
"
"
orange rosemary
neroli (petale)
.4 .4 .3 .1
.
" "
"
petit-grain
Alcohol, 85
6| gallons.
120

is
Cologne water
favor for
my own
very volatile, and I have found recipes because I have made them
more lasting by adding some fixing ingredient, which also tends to correct the odor of the fusel oil which remains in the corn spirit, and is unpleasant.
No.
4.
Eau
de Cologne.
Oil of bergamot " cedrat "
....
. .
(Cristiani's.)
fl.
"
" "
rosemary (flowers) neroli, bigarade

petit-grain cloves
.
.
.
4 4
2
ounces. "
"
"
.2
.
Extract of orange-flower, (from pomade) Tincture of ambrette

.
.
2sTo.
.
.1
i
.
pint.
"
"
orris
I
1
"
"
Deodorized alcohol, 95
.
6 gallons.
in
Orange-flower water, triple This has given general satisfaction, as odor many of the most celebrated
it
approaches
co-
German
lognes.
Cologne Oil.
(Cristiani's
Cologne Essence.)
.
Oil of rosemary (flowers) " " "

"
bergamot orange (Portugal) lemon

,
.
8 ounces. " 8 6
cedrat
4 4
"
u
"
neroli (petale)
.4
.
"
petit-grain
"
.
.
4
2 2
" " "
lavender (best)
cloves
.
"
Alcohol, 95
....
.
.
5| pints.
AROMATIC AXD TOILET WATERS.
121
Four ounces of this essence in 7 pints of alcohol and 1 pint of orange-flower water, will make a good cologne water suited to the wants of American
buyers.
Eciu cPAnge.
Myrtle flowers Rose leaves
....
.
(Angel water.)
2 pounds.
\
pints.
.
Rectified spirit
Water
Salt
......
JEJau de Beaute.
.
. .
... .8 .....
2|
"
1 pound.
distil off
Digest together for two days, when gallon; the salt to be added just before
one
distilling.
Tincture of benzoin
"
2 ounces.
" \
ambergris
musk
|
.
.
"
Rectified spirit, 65
Orange-flower water
3|
| pint. "
very cooling and refreshing perfume and cosmetic for the skin. Properly made it will retain its
milky appearance, and it is much esteemed removal of freckles, tan, etc.

de Bouquet de Fleur.
for the
Oilofcedrat
rosemary Extract of rose
"
"
fl.
ounce.
" "
violet
.....2
.
4
1
Tincture of ambergris Alcohol, 95 Orange-flower water

.
.1
2i pints.
This
is
a desirable perfume for the handkerchief or
lavatory.
122
Eau
de
Grand Duchesse.
.
. .
.
Oil of Portugal (orange)
rosemary
cloves
neroli
.2 drachms,
i
.
1 ounce, " \
"
Tincture of orris Alcohol

.Rose-water
\ pint. 3 "
J
(Cristiani's.)
"
Florida Water.
Oil of bergamot
"
.
8 ounces.
" " "
orange lavender (best)

cloves
4
3
"
"
..
cinnamon (true)
\ pint.
Tincture of orris
Peru balsam
Alcohol, 95
Water
Mix, and
4 gallons. 6 pints.
let it remain quiet for some days before and bottling. Florida water has a great filtering popularity in the West Indies and South America, whence I have made frequent shipments, and this formula has given general satisfaction.
Eau
de Fee.
Oil of lemon "

"
bergamot rosemary
lavender
cloves
"
"
.... .... .... .... ....

.
(Fairy water.)
1 ounce. " i l
2
"
civet
Alcohol, 95 Oranore-flower water
....
.
i 4 2
" "
"
3 pints.
123
This will be found to be a pleasant and economical toilet water, and can also be used on the handkerchief.
Geranium Water.
Oil of rose geranium, French Tincture of orris " ambrette
fl.
Alcohol, 95
...
.
4 4
ounces. "
3 pints.
Rose-water.
Hedyosmia Water.
Oil of neroli, petale " lavender (best) " cloves " rose
ounce,
l
2
.
....
musk
4 1 drachm.
\ pint.
J,
Tincture of orris
Alcohol, 95 Orange-flower water
...
.
2 ounces. 3 pints.
modification of an
English recipe where the
directions are to distil.
the above and produce
It is only necessary to filter a very fine toilet water.
Heliotrope Water.
Oil of rhodium
"
.
.1 drachm.
1
"
drops.
"
.
rose
"
almonds
.20
.
Tincture of orris
vanilla
\ pint.
"
musk
Alcohol, 95 Rose-water, triple This will be found excellent.

. .
.1 ounce. .3 pints.
.4 ounces.
124
Eau
de Lavand.
(Lavender water.)
.
Oil of lavender (best)
3 ounces,
rhodium
Alcohol, 95 Rose-water
.
.1 drachm. .3 pints.
.
"
favor with
fine.
Lavender water has had and still retains great many people, and when distilled is very
The above formula may be

it
distilled,
but
if fil-
tered only
will prove good.
Eau
de
Lavand Ambre.
(Amber
.
lavender.)
.
Oil of lavender " rose "
(Mitcham)
.
.
2
1
fl.
fl.
ounces.
drachrn.
bergamot
fl.
ounce.
Tincture of
Alcohol, 95
musk
ambergris
.1
.
1
pints.
Rose-water, triple
.3 .1
and
Mix, and let it stand a week, found excellent.
filter,
it
will be
Hungary Water.
Oil of rosemary " lavender (best). " . petit-grain
...
. .
.
.1
.
ounce.
"
.1 drachm.
.
Tincture of Tolu. Alcohol Orange-flower water

.
1 ounce.
1 "
.3 pints.
.
Hungary water owes
its
peculiarity to rosemary,
and was invented several hundred years since, when it was supposed to have the power of causing those
who used
it
as a cosmetic to remain
young
forever.
AROMATIC A^D TOILET WATERS.
125
Eau
de Miel.
(Honey
water.)
1 ounce.
Oil of lemon " cloves " neroli
*
.
"
1 drachm,
Tincture of vanilla
" "
2 ounces.
.
ambrette
2
1
S_
"
"
musk
Alcohol, 95
...
.
.
3 pints.
U
Orange-flower water
A very fine fragrant water.

Eau
neroli
de Millefleur. ounce.
1.
Oil of bergamot
"
cloves
i
.
"
almonds
Tincture of orris
"
1 drachm.
| pint.
4t
.
cedar
ambrette
"
musk
rose, ~No.
cassie,
5 1 ounce.
Extract of
2 2
"
"
.
Alcohol, 95
...
.
.
No. 2
2 pints.
\
Rose-water, triple
be found a favorite fragrance, and a very one for the bath or the handkerchief. permanent
This
will
Eau
"
de JKomain.
(Italian flowers.)
.
.
Oil of orange (Portugal)

neroli, petale
.
1
i
fl.
ounce. "
"
Tincture of benzoin
vanilla
126

Tincture of ambergris Extract of tuberose, No. 2
.
.
fl.
ounce.
" "
2 2
"
cassie,
Alcohol, 95
....
No. 2
.
.
3 pints.
Rose-water, triple
"
from an original Italian recipe, and nothing in this form has had a greater popularity. It is delicate and lasting, and superior to many of the so-called French extracts.
This
is
I ever
made
Eau
Oil of orange " rose
.
de Sultana.
.
1 ounce.
1 drachm,
.
Extract of jasmine, No. 1 Tincture of vanilla Tincture of benzoin Flowers of benzoin Alcohol Orange-flower water
. . .
2 ounces. 2
1
" "
1 drachm.
3 pints.
Eau
Eau bouquet
Hygienique.
.
de fleur
.
2 pints.
1 ounce. 1 pint.
Gum
Used
as a
camphor
.
Alcohol
wash
for the skin.
Eau
Extract of
de Mousselwe.
No. 2 jasmine, No. 2

rose,
2 ounces. 2 "
.

Tincture of vanilla
"
2
1 1
" "
musk
"

Oil of cloves " santal
....
.
127
1 drachm. " \
Alcohol
Orange-flower water
. .
3 pints. " J
Eau
de Violette de Parme.
cassie, ~No. 2
violet,
(Italian violet.)
.
Extract of
.2 ounces.
.
No. 2
.
" "
"
Tincture of orris
" civet
4
1
Oil of almonds "
rhodium
Alcohol, 95
... .....3
. . .
.
\ drachm. 1
pints.
Rose-water, triple
"
Violet water will be found a delicate and pleasant

article for the toijet or the handkerchief.
Eau
Oil of "
"
lemon
...
.
Vulneraire.
.
| ounce.
rosemary peppermint
u
.
. . .
Tincture of benzoin
"
.1 drachm. .4 ounces.
.
musk
Rectified spirit, 65
3| pints.
Eau
Tolu
de Vanille.
. .
.
Tincture of vanilla
|
.
1J pint. "
"
"
Tonquin
ambrette
J
\ 1 \
Alcohol Rose-water
"
"
128

Verbena Water
Oil of "
lemon grass lemon

.
1| ounce. " |
neroli (petit-grain)
Tincture of orris
"
.4
.
.
Tonquin
Alcohol, 95
...
.
2
3 pints.
"
\
Orange-flower water
exceedingly refreshing perfume, and made in this manner will be found better than the generality of verbena water in the market.
An
Bay Hum.
Oil of
bay
Loaf sugar
Alcohol, 95
.....2
.
. .
\ ounce.
1 pint.
Eectified spirit,
60
"
Beat up the sugar with the oil and add the alcohol; Bay rum can be lastly put in the spirit, and filter. made better by using ]ST. E. rum instead of the spirit.
I might continue the list of aromatic waters without limit, as there are many more; but they are but modifications of those given,
and should others be needed
the perfumer can get a very correct idea of their ingredients from those already given. The expert manipulator with the materials at hand
can make almost any desired odor, or can invent one himself and give it any euphonious name he may elect. I must proceed to give formulas for arnmoniated and acetic waters or vinegars. The pungency of vinegar used to be thought a hygienic property, and was naturally used as a pro-
129
phylactic with satisfactory results ; indeed, it is a very valuable form of perfume, as its effects are
beneficial
when
a few drops are added to a bath or
the lavatory.
Vinaigre Aromatique.
Oil of lemon " lavender (Eng.) " rosemary flower " cloves
.
.
....
.
.
(De
Bully.)
1 ounce.
"
\
J
.
"
" u
"
\
1
Gum
"
"
camphor
Tincture of benzoin
orris
2
1
1
storax
"
" "
Tonquin
musk
Alcohol, 95 Acetic acid
....
. . .
.
.
4J pints.
1
Rose- water, triple

Dissolve the
oils
1J
"
and camphor in the alcohol
add
;
the tincture, then the acid, lastly the rose-water it stand a fortnight before filtering.
let
Cologne Vinegar.
Cologne essence (Cristiani's)

Alcohol
2 ounces. 3 pints.
"
Acetic acid
Orange-flower water
"
. .
This can also be made by adding a portion of acetic acid, say one-eighth, to ordinary Cologne,
when acetated Cologne is ordered. I prefer ing as above, as it makes a nicer preparation.
9
operat-
130

Henry's Vinegar.
(English.)
rue,
Dried leaves of rosemary,

sage,
wormwood, mint, and

.
lavender flowers, of each \ ounce. Bruised nutmegs, cloves, an" gelica, and camphor, of each J 4 ounces. Alcohol, 95 " Concentrated acetic acid 16
....
.
The
days,
materials are macerated with the alcohol
two
when add
the acid and macerate in a
warm
place for a fortnight, when press out the liquid, being" careful that it does not come in contact with o
any metal, as the acid be contaminated with

vinaigrettes
will corrode it
it.
and the fluid This vinegar is used in
Vinaigre des Quartre Voleurs.

vinegar.)
(Four thieves'
Take the
sage,
fresh tops of rosemary,
wormwood,
.
.
rue,
.
and
.
mint, of each Lavender flowers
f ounce.
1
"
Calamus, cloves, nutmegs, and cinnamon (bruised), of each

.
1 drachm.
|
Camphor
Alcohol
Strong vinegar
.2 ounces. .1 pint.
The camphor
is
dissolved in the alcohol, added to
the other ingredients, and when they have digested ten days the mixture is strained. Marseilles vinegar has had a great reputation as a cure-all, and no doubt is a good preventive of con-

tagion.
thieves,
It is said to
131
have been invented by four

use escaped the druggist can make as
its
who robbed
the dead at the time of the
plague in Marseilles, and by

effects of the pestilence. effective a preparation
oils in alcohol
Any
by dissolving the and acetic acid.

Vinaigre a la Rose.
essential
Concentrated acetic acid Otto of rose
1 ounce.
^ drachm.
Used
5
like
grettes in the vials in order to retain the vinegar, or fill a pungent with the crystals of sulphate of potash, and
let the
Henry's Vinegar for perfuming vinaiand it is customary to have a little asbestos
of sel
vinegar fill the interstices hence the de vinaigre or salt of vinegar.

;
name
Vinaigre a la
Violette.
(Violet vinegar.)
.

violet,
J pint.
"
rose,
No. 2 No. 2
.
I |
%
"
"
" "
Tincture of orris
"White wine vinegar
This is a very for ten days and filter. form of aromatic vinegar; and we might pleasant give twenty more such recipes, as orange flower, tuberose, etc. etc., but, in view of the instructions
Digest
already given,
it
would seem unnecessary, as well
as
from the fact that we have never found much demand

for this class of goods.
Of ammoniated
limited, and is for lavatory purposes, or stronger combinations for
products, the demand is equally confined to two or three preparations
132
PERFUMEKY AND KINDliED ARTS.
much used
perfuming pungents or smelling salts. The latter is in headaches or to gratify the olfactories.
Ammoniated Cologne Water.

Cologne essence (Cristiani's) Alcohol
.
. .
1 ounce.
.2 pints.
.
Aqua ammonia, FFF.
2 ounces.
A substitute for spirits
of sal volatile.
(Spirits of sal
Aromatic Spirits of Ammonia.

volatile.)
Oil of lemon "

"
fl.
ounce.
"
rosemary
nutmegs Spirits of ammonia
f " J 2 pints.
very grateful stimulant and antacid in sick headache, and much used in medicinal practice to assist the action or cover the nauseous taste of mediIt can be advantageously used in the bath or cine.
lavatory.
Eau
de Luce.
"
(Succinated spirits of ammonia.)

. .
Oil of amber, rectified
drachm.
"
lavender Tincture of benzoin

"
.2 ounces.
.
Peru balsam
Aqua ammonia, FFF.
2 6
"
"
Agitate together in a bottle, but do not filter, as it should retain its milky appearance. This preparation is useful as a stimulant and antispasmodic, and
as a lotion for the sting of insects
and
reptiles.

Volatile Essence.
133
(For perfuming pungents or
smelling salts.)
Oil of lavender "
"
.
. .
bergamot
cloves
.
rhodium
...
.
.1
.
^ ounce. " i " i drachm.

21 ounces.
satis-
Aqua ammonia,
strong
This I have generally found to give entire

faction as a perfume for the carbonate of commonly used in pungents.
ammonia,
CHAPTER
IX.
ETC.
SACHET POWDERS,
form of powders have been traced to the most ancient times, and they were, no doubt, among the earliest forms of perfume; for
in
PERFUMES
the
among the
British
curiosities of the ancient
Egyptians
in the
Museum is a vase taken from the tomb of a mummy, probably four thousand years old, that was
nearly full of a powder of resins, etc., which still had a pleasant odor ; and seems to be such a vase as is
used in many countries to hold a "pot-pourri," a powder of dried flowers and herbs. The Bible also speaks in sundry places of perfumes and gums and frankincense, and of the " "Wise men"
still
presenting to Christ gold, frankincense, and myrrh. Sachet powders are generally put into silk or satin
bags, or into ornamental paper envelopes, and are useful for perfuming clothes, drawers, trunks, desks,
134
letter paper, etc. etc. Under this bead I shall also treat of scent balls and beads, cassolettes, fumigating
pastils,
purfumed
leather, etc. etc.
The variety of these powders is large, with the names of nearly all the extracts or bouquets we have The ingregiven, and some peculiar to themselves. be good and fresh, and contain such dients should substances as have a permanency of odor; otherwise they will lose their perfume very soon after being
exposed to the
air.
Bouquet Sachet.
Ground
"
"
rose leaves
orange flowers lavender

.
1 pound. "
i
.
1 \
"
"
orange peel
"
" "
"
cedar
wood
.
thyme
i \
|
\
"
"
orris root
"
. . .
"
gum
benzoin
.
"
.
vanilla
"
|
.
"
"
rhodium wood
Let these be ground and sieved, but not too fine, as a coarse powder has the advantage of allowing the air to pass through the mass, and of retaining its odor longer. On finishing the powder a few essential oils dissolved in alcohol can be mixed in.
Sachet
ait
Cypre.
(Cypress sachet.)
. .
Ground rhodium wood cedar wood santal wood

.
1 pound,
"
i
"
.
"
rose leaves
J A
"
135
1 pound.
Ground
orris root
gum
benzoin
Oil of rhodium
i ounce.
Sachet a la Frangipane.
Ground
rose leaves
santal
wood
1 pound. " 1
1
'2
vitivert root
"
"
orris root
1
.
"
musk pods
each
1 ounce. 1 drachm.
Oils of neroli, rose, and santal,
...'..
.
This sachet
is
a general favorite.
Heliotrope Sachet.
Ground
rose leaves
orris root
.1 .2
.
pounds.
'
Ton quin beans

" vanilla
..''.'.
.
gum
Oil of rose
"
benzoin
.
| J
&
"
musk pods
almonds
\ ounce.
drachm.
accustomed to have each article ground separately, and then when mixed grinding them again all together, as a better means of blending them
I have been
thoroughly.
Geranium
Sachet.
.
Ground
"
rose geranium leaves orris root

.
.
2
i
1 pound. "
"
"
rhodium wood
gum
benzoin
J
.
**
.
Oil of rose geranium
J ounce.
136

Magnolia Sachet.
Ground
rose leaves
1 pound.
orange flowers orris root

benzoin
Oil of almonds " cedrat
.
orange peel
.
I
1 drachm,
2
Sachet.
Musk
orris root
Ground rhodium wood

vanilla
.
1 pound. " 2
i
2
"
"
musk pods
benzoin
.
2 ounces.
Millefleur Sachet.
Ground
u
orris root
1J pound.
.
lavender flowers
orange flowers
rose leaves
.
1 l
2
benzoin
cloves
vanilla
Ton quin
.
I i i
santal
cinnamon
Extract of millefleur
.
2 ounces.
2
Sachet.
"
New-mown Hay
Ground
" " "
rose leaves
1 pound.
orange flowers orris root

benzoin
.
137
| pound.
Ground Tonquin bean

"
ambrette
.
l 1 drachm.
Oil of almonds "
verbena
Patchouly Sachet.
Ground patchouly herb

"
"
2 pounds.
1
" "
rhodium
orris root
benzoin
Oil of patchouly " rose
.
1 drachm.
20 drops.
Rose Sachet.
Ground
"
rose leaves
orris root
1| pounds.
rhodium wood
santal
.
"
benzoin
Otto of rose
Brazil
wood
Verbena Sachet.
2 drachms. 1 ounce.
Ground lemon thyme

lemon peel
"
orris root
1 pound.
2
1
"
"
Oil of lemon grass "
bergamot
\ ounce. " 1
Violet Sachet.
Ground
" "
orris root
2 pounds.
rhodium wood
rose leaves
138

Ground black currant
benzoin
leaves
\
J_
pound.
"
musk pods
Oil of almonds
.
| ounce.
\ drachm,
West-end Sachet.
Ground
"
rose leaves
1 pound. i i
orange flowers
"
" " "
rhodium wood
orris root
benzoin
Oil of neroli " cedrat
i
2
1 drachm.
Pot-Pourri.
Bruised lavender flowers
1 pound.
lemon thyme
"
sage
" "
rose leaves
orris root
cloves
cinnamon
gum
Salt
benzoin
marjoram
Pot-pourri is a mixture of flowers, herbs, and spices bruised together, and a little salt added under the supposition that it will keep its odor longer.
Cassolettes, sometimes called printaniers, are little scent balls, inclosed in handsome perforated boxes made of ivory, gold, or silver, and worn about the
person or carried in the reticule. Nearly all of the sachet powders can be made into them by mixing with them a mucilage of gum tragacanth, making
139
into balls, and, before they are quite dry, making perforations through them with a large needle.
Perfumed beads
are
much
the
same
as cassolettes,
except that they are colored black with ebony wood or ivory black, and, when dry, polished or carved, and
strung and worn round the neck. they are very durable.
When
well
made
Fumigating pastils are a very useful form of perfume, having the property of emitting their fragrance when burned and they are among the most ancient forms in which perfumes were first used.
;
Pastilles Fumantes.
Powdered charcoal
u
"
.2 pounds.
.
olibanum
Tonquin
benzoin
allspice
. .
...
.
J J
|
cinnamon
" "
5
.
cloves
i
J
"
nitrate of potash
mass with a mucilage of tragacanth, and by means of a mould or with the fingers make them into cones, about an inch long and not quite half an inch at the base. When dry they can be burned on little ornamented bronze stands
into a
to
Mix together and make
perfume the sick-chamber or other apartments.

Santal-wood
Pastils.
.
Ground
"
"
"
santal
wood
.
olibanum
benzoin
saltpetre
...
.
1J pounds. J
1
140

Ground
cassie
.
.
Oil santal "
^ pound. 2 drachms. 2
cloves
In most of the burning pastils in which the aromatic roots, woods, and barks are the principal ingredients, the smoke of them is so great as to be
objectionable, and, when the aromatic odor has evapTo remedy orated, leaves an unpleasant burnt odor.
this defect, I will give what I consider a better form for this useful article, in which the volatile substance
is
evaporated in the
air
and there
is
little
smoke,
and that a pleasant one.
Fumigating Pastils.
Powdered willow charcoal
4 pounds.
"
\ " |
Gum
"
olibanum
benzoin
Oils of lavender, caraway, cloves,
cinnamon, thyme, geranium, santal, rhodium, of each Nitrate of potash

.
2 drachms.
2 ounces.
dissolved in the mucilage of tragacanth, then the whole mixed and beaten into a stiff mass, and moulded into cones or cast into figures
saltpetre
is
The
with tin cutters.

CristianVs
Pyrosmia (Fumigating Wafers)

that
is
Are another form of fumigation
equally con-
venient and pleasant, in fact, more handy, being in a more compact form. Take white blotting card unsized, and moderately thick, and saturate it with a
solution of
two ounces of
saltpetre to one pint of

rose-water
;
141
when dry
with a
coat
it
with the following mixbrush:
ture, applied
soft, flat
Tinctures of olibanum, benzoin, Tolu, vanilla, cascarilla, of each

Oil of rhodium
. . .
2 ounces.
.1 drachm.
After being well dried, the cards are cut into squares of about an inch and packed into small tinboxes, in the lid of each of which is a small opening to admit the corner of the wafer, which, when lighted, burns away rapidly, leaving a very pleasant odor in
the apartment.
Perfumed Leather.
Tincture of benzoin
(Peau d'Espange.)
.
.
musk
"
.2 ounces.
.
\ pint.
ambergris
vanilla
.
Oil of lavender " santal
"
"
neroli
bergamot
is
.... .... .....4 ...

.
.
4
1
"
"
2 drachms.
1
spread upon thick buckskin with a soft flat brush, and when dry is cut into equalsized pieces, and enveloped in silk bags or orna-
This mixture
mental paper. This is a very convenient article for scenting letter paper, clothes, chests, etc. etc., and will retain its perfume a great length of time, and
will not soil.
There are a great many means resorted to for perAlmost every one is familiar fuming apartments.
with the odorators made of a rubber bulb with bent tube attached, one end being placed in a bottle of perfume, which latter is ejected in the form of spray
142
on exhausting and expanding the bulb. There is that is filled with perfumed alcohol, lamp having in the wick a small coil of platinum wire; this lamp is lighted, and allowed to burn until the wire becomes red hot, when it is blown out, when the platinum remains incandescent while there is any alcohol left, and emits the perfume in a slightly
also a
altered condition.
lamp generating steam that passes through tubes properly bent, and carries with it the contents of a bottle of essence, and so
is
There
also a device of a
adding moisture with the perfumes.
This
is
appli-
cable to large audiences at concerts, theatres, etc.
CHAPTER
X.
SKIN.
PREPARATIONS FOR THE
COSMETICS
for the skin are a

art,
very important branch
of the perfumer's
and
in the recipes
given I shall
try and give such ingredients as are harmless, and, at the same time, efficacious. This class of perfumes
is very large, and there are so many nostrums advertised guaranteed to effect the most marvellous results, that a word of caution should be given to careless
people not to use any such preparations, unless they know the ingredients, or have perfect confidence in
the persons who prepare them. Unprincipled quacks advertise nostrums that, through ignorance or worse,
do much more injury than benefit
to that delicate
organ, the skin. To prepare cold cream and the emulsions a consid-
PREPARATIONS FOR THE
SKIN".
143
erable degree of skill is requisite, as without some practice the novice will find it difficult to get the
desired quantity of oil and water to combine with the other ingredients. little experience and care
in the
temperature will soon
produce success.
as they should not be used except
Arsenical and mercurial preparations I will omit, by the advice of a
medical practitioner.
Almond
Lotion.
. .
Bitter almonds, blanched Orange-flower water

,
4 ounces. " 12 4 20 drops.

1 drachm.
Curd soap
Alcohol, 65 Oil of almonds
"
bergamot
.... .... ....
Dissolve the soap in a water-bath with the orangeflower water, beat up the almonds in a clean marble
mortar, gradually adding the soap and water, strain through a clean washed muslin strainer and return
to the mortar, and while stirring gradually add the alcohol in which the oils have been dissolved.
Amandine.
Oil of almonds, sweet
Clarified
.
.
honey
.3 ounces.
.
2 pounds.
1
"White shaving cream Liquor of potassa, U.

.
"
"
S.
P.
.
bergamot Balsam of Peru
Oil of almond (essential) " cloves "

.
...
.
.
\ 1 drachm. "
2
1
"
144
PERFUMERY AND KIXDEED ARTS.

oil
Scent the
of almonds with the essential oils and
balsam, mix the honey with the soap and liquor potassa in a marble mortar, and while stirring add the oil until it assumes a transparent appearance when
put up in China-paste boxes.
Cucumber Lotion.
Blanched almonds Shaving cream Oil of benne
.
4 ounces.
" *
\
pound.
Expressed juice of cucumbers

Alcohol, 65
...
1| pints. 4 ounces.
Manipulate as
for
almond
lotion.
Camphor Lotion.
Spermaceti, white wax, oil of monds (sweet), of each
al-
2 ounces.
1
1 1
Shaving cream Liquor potassa, U.

.
S.
P.
camphor Blanched almonds Rose-water Alcohol

.
Gum
4
1^ pints. 4 ounces,
drachm.
Oil of pimento "
bergamot
lotion.
Make
like
almond
Elder Flower Emulsion.
Blanched almonds
Alcohol, 65
.
ounces,
pints. u
Distilled elder-flower water
Shaving cream, white Oil of sweet almonds
ounce. u
PREPARATIONS FOR THE SKIX.

"White
145
wax
Spermaceti.
\ ounce. " 1
Liquor potassa
2 drachms.
Melt the wax and spermaceti with the oil, soap, and potassa, make the milk as you make that in almond lotion, pouring it into the warm wax, etc., very gradually; lastly add the alcohol, in which are dissolved the camphor and essential oils. If carefully made it will have a uniform milky appearance.
Cosmetic Cream of Lilies.
Bitter almonds, blanched
(Cristiani's.)
.
.
5 ounces.
Orange-flower water, triple Alcohol
1| pint.
" I
White wax,
spermaceti,
oil
of
\ ounce.
|
benne, shaving cream, of each Oil of neroli

" "
drachm.
" "
bergamot
cloves
.
.1
.
Borax
\ ounce.
This beautiful preparation I consider an improvement; for when properly prepared and bottled it will keep sweet for years, and its property of improving
the complexion is unsurpassed. Prepare it as directed in camphor lotion, dissolving the borax in the
orange-flower water slightly warmed.
Balsam of Honey.
Spermaceti
.
(Baume de
.
Miel.)
.3 ounces.
1 u
"
.
White wax
Oil of benne
.
6 2
Shaving cream
" "
Honey
10
146

Tincture of ambergris Oil of pimento
.
.
.1 drachm.
.
\ ounce.
bergamot
"
to-
Melt the sperm, wax,
oil,
and shaving cream
gether in a glazed vessel, and add the honey, stirring until nearly cold, when drop in the essential oil, and
put
in china pots.
Glycerine Balm.
Glycerine, best
Citric acid
....
. . .
.
Rose-water, triple
Oil of almonds
4 ounces. " 12
"
\
lemon
\ drachm, " 1
the essential oils and acid, and while stirring graduall} add the glycerine and rose-water. It should be a clear solution, and is an invaluable pre"
Rub up
paration for whitening and softening the skin, remov-
ing freckles and discolorations.
Lait Virginal.
Tincture of benzoin
u
vanilla
.
.2
.
\ ounce.
drachms.
Rose-water
\\ pint.
the water to the tincture very slowly, to insure a perfect milky emulsion that will not precipitate.
Add
very fine preparation for whitening and
cooling the skin.
Cold Cream.
(Cristiani's.)
. .
Benne
oil
.12
. .
ounces.
"
Rose-water, triple Spermaceti

.
White wax
Otto of rose
. . .
8 4 2
" "
drops.
.20
PREPARATIONS TOR THE SKIN.
147
Melt the wax and sperm with the oil in a porcelain "When vessel, which should not be too shallow. the rose-water where it can run very melted, place
slowly into the paste; keep stirring until it is thoroughly mixed, when add the otto of rose ; then put it into porcelain When well made it jars for sale.
will
keep good
for a
long time.
Violets.
Cold Cream of
Substitute
the benne
oil
oil.
of violets perfumed by enfleurage for Thus you can make the cold cream
etc.,
of orange flowers, jasmine, tuberose, etc. by the difference in perfume.
simply
Cucumber Cream.
Oil of benne
.
.
\ pound.
"White
wax
oil
.'
Spermaceti
2
.
. . .
1 ounce. "
Green
"
"
drops.
juice Oil of neroli
Cucumber
juice of
.30
The
cucumbers can be obtained from
the fruit by expression. When collected it should be heated slightly to coagulate the albumen it con-
impregnated with the flavor of the fruit by several contacts with it. Prepare in the same manner as cold cream.
tains,
and strained.
Green
oil is
olive oil
Glycerine Cream.
Mutton suet
Spermaceti
(clarified)
8 ounces. " 2
Benne
oil
4
2
.
Glycerine Oil of almonds, essential

" "
cedrat
cloves
. .
1 drachm.
2
\
"
"
148
PERFUMERY AXD KIN"DRED ARTS.

oil,
and add the glycerine while cooling, then the perfumes, and put
into the jars intended for sale.
Melt the sperm and suet with the
Camphor
Ice,
with Glycerine.
.
. .
(Cristiani's.)
.
Paraffine
wax
.
8 ounces.
Sparmaceti
Castor
oil
oil
4
2
2
"
" "
Cacao butter
Benne
Camphor
Glycerine Oil of neroli
.
8 2
"
"
....
. . .
.
2
1
|
"
1 drachm.
"
bergamot pimento almonds (essential)

.
"
6<
"
Put the camphor with the benne and castor oils, melt with gentle heat, add the wax, butter, and sperm, and when cooling stir in the glycerine, and lastly the perfumes. This is generally moulded into forms with
a suitable tin mould,
and
is
a very popular article. or Lotion.

lotion,
Pistuchio
Nut Cream
Can be made
in the
same manner as almond
substituting the pistuchio nuts.
Aqua
Ornatus.
(Ornamental water.)
.
Gum
benzoin
J ounce.
Vanilla
lihatany root
Rectified spirits, 60
.1
is
J i
"
"
pint.
Bruise the ingredients and put in the rate for a fortnight, when filter. This
spirit;
mace-
compact
149
few drops are poured upon form of lait virginal. a wetted cloth, and the face bathed with it. It is a beautiful and harmless remedy for tan, freckles,
pimples, etc.
Sulphur Lotion.
Sulphuret of potash (new) Tincture of benzoin
.
2 drachms.
\ ounce. " 1
1 J pint.
Glycerine Rose-water, triple
Dissolve the sulphate of potash with a portion of

rest of the water.
tion, itch,
the rose-water, add the glycerine and gradually the For pimples, freckles, discolora-
black heads,
etc.
Though not
a pleasant
smelling preparation,
it is
yet quite efficacious.
Eulcesis, or
Essence of Soap.
.
Shaving cream Liquor potassa (U.S.P.) Oil of almond (sweet) Alcohol, 60 Oil of almond (essential)
"
"
...
.
.
....
.
.
6 ounces. 2 drachms. | ounce.

1 pint.
1 drachm.
*2
bergamot pimento
"
"
. .
very pleasant and convenient preparation for shaving, and is usually put in tubes of tinfoil, and when wanted a portion is squeezed out on the face, and a lather is easily made with the brush.
This
is a
JEJmil
Blanc.
Lavigated talc Glycerine Rose-water, triple
....
.
(White enamel.)
3 ounces. " 2
1 J pint.
150

talc should
The
be exceedingly
fine,
and be
tritu-
rated with the glycerine in a wedgewood mortar, and the rose-water gradually added. This is a pleasant and harmless article. Similar preparations are made
with the oxide of bismuth, zinc, or lead, that are not so innocent, and as it is the object of this work not to give pernicious recipes, all formulas given can be
employed with confidence.
Lard
......
Divine.
oil
.
.
Pomade
Almond
1
i
.
pound. "
" "
Spermaceti
Gum
"
benzoin, powdered . Oil of bergamot

cloves
. .
.1
.
\
I
drachm.
"
Melt
in a water-bath
and add the benzoin
in fine
powder and the perfume before it stiffen s. This preparation has had a great name, and is pleasant, safe, and healing.
Camphor
Mutton suet
"White
.
Balls.
. .
.12
4 2
wax Camphor
Oil of lavender
ounces. "
....
"
2 drachms.
;
Melt the camphor in a small portion of the suet add the wax and balance of suet. It is moulded into cakes, and used for softening the skin, chafes, chapped
hands, etc. etc.

Rose Lip Salve.
Spermaceti
. .
.
151
.4 ounces.
.
White wax
Oil of beniie
. .
.
Castor
oil
Otto of rose Vermilion

.
...
.
.
2 6 2
"
"
Rouge
Melt
vegetal
\ drachm. " 1 " 2
carefully,
and when creamy put into small
metal, porcelain, or rose-wood boxes.
Blanc de Perle (Pearl white) Is levigated talc mixed with a little almond oil and mucilage of gum tragacanth, and spread upon porcelain disks for convenient use.
ROUGES AND PAINTS FOR THE FACE.

Rouges and paints for the face and eyebrows, etc., come under the head of cosmetics, and are usually harmless when made of carmine or safflowers, but not so when the aniline colors are used, as they are apt to
contain mineral poisons.
Bloom of Roses.
Carmine, No. 40
Alcohol, 60
(Liquid Rouge.)
...
. . .
. . .
2 drachms.
| ounce.
Aqua ammonia, FFF.
Gum
....
.
2
|
" "
Arabic
drops. the aqua ammonia Rub gum with in a porcelain mortar, and a portion of the rose-water, when dissolved add the alcohol slowly and the bal. .
Rose-water, triple Otto of roses

the carmine and
.1 pint.
.10
152

The perfume
strain.
ance of the rose-water.

in the alcohol.
to be dissolved
Lastly
Vinaigre de Rouge.
Carmine, No. 40
| ounce.
Aqua ammonia
" "
"
Extract of rose, No. 2 Acetic acid Rose-water

.
2
1
.4 pints.
a mortar
;
Mix the carmine with
the
ammonia in
add
the extract, then the acid; lastly, and by degrees, the rose-water.
Rouge de Theatre
Is the carthamus rouge (rouge vegetal) mixed with a few drops of almond oil, and with mucilage of gum
tragacanth, and spread upon porcelain disks, convenient for use.
Crepon Rouge
Is
cotton saturated with solution
of
carmine or
carthamus and dried.

CJiinese
Card Rouge
which
Is an unsized paper saturated with carthamus, when dried assumes a bronze hue.
Pink Saucers,
So long used, consist of the same solution of carthaor carmine evaporated to a creamy consistence and spread upon saucers.
mus
Lily White or Pearl Powder.,
So much used in this country, is generally a mixture of Paris white and kaolin, and formed into cakes and
153
finer article is made with a put in fancy boxes. mixture of powdered talc and corn starch held together with mucilage. The name of pearl powder has heretofore been applied to the oxide of bismuth, but it is not much used at the present time.
Violet Toilet
Powder.
.
Corn starch Ambrette seed
.10 pounds.
.
1 1
" "
Orris root in powder Tincture of musk
.2
;
drachms.
This is a favorite and perfectly harmless powder, much used for the chafing of infants it is prepared by keeping the starch in contact with the ambrettc seed for about a month, sieving the latter out and adding the orris and tincture.
Rose
Toilet Powder.
.
Corn or potato starch Powdered orris root

Oil of santal " rose
.
.12 pounds.
"
.
.1
.
drachm.
"
"
Tincture of civet
| 1
This
is
simply mixed and sieved and put into boxes
or wrappers. Starch powders are the safest and most useful of all toilet powders, as they absorb all excess
of moisture, and remedy redness and gloss on the face, besides being indispensable for chafes in infants.
Poudre de Eiz.
Rice powder
is
now much used and
is
perfumed
in
the same manner as the starch powders.
154

Lycopodium Powder.
Lycopodium Rose or violet
toilet
.....2
powder
.
(Club-moss powder.)
1 pound. "
Club-moss powder is- invaluable as an absorbent, and for excoriated surfaces in infants, etc.
Cosmetic
Almond Powder.
.
Sweet almonds, blanched Potato starch

.
1 pound. "
Powdered orris root White curd soap

Carbonate of soda
Oil of bergamot
"
.
.
.1 ounce. .2 drachms.
.
"
almonds, essential
"
cloves
.
.
"
"
First grind the almonds ; add the starch, then the soap (previously dried and powdered), and the soda; re-sieve to blend the whole together ; lastly, add the
perfume.
in
Used
whitening and softening the
as a soap powder, and has a fine effect skin.
Sulphuretted Toilet Powder.
Lac sulphur Powdered talc Corn starch

Paris white
....
.
.
4 ounces.
3 3
"
"
4
1
\
;
"
u "
Benne
oil
.2 ounces.
.
Tincture of orris " ambrette
Mix thoroughly by sieving

a ma*ss with suited to the box
all
together
make
into
pure water, and mould into a tablet it is intended for. Sulphur is the safest of all mineral substances intended for the skin. Be careful not to use the ordinary flower of sulphur,

as
it is
155
will injure
apt to have some free sulphuric acid in it, and and irritate the skin. This powder will
all
be found useful in almost
cutaneous eruptions.
Meen Fun (Chinese skin powder)

in impalpable powder, very absorbent to all the secretions of the skin.
Is a sort of
magnesian earth
Cosmetic Gloves.
Cosmetic gloves are sometimes wanted as a remedy for rough and chapped hands gloves of cheap leather are coated with some such cosmetic creams as we have given the recipes for, but I will add a French formula for chaps and chilblains, etc., as follows
;
:
Glove Cosmetic.
Mutton suet
.
....
.
.
2 ounces.
1
\
Spermaceti Powdered benzoin

.
" "
Yolk of two eggs. Peru balsam

.
1 drachm.
\ ounce. "
"White curd soap

Olive
oil
. .
2|
.
Otto of roses
If this mixture
is
.20
drops.
spread upon the inside of the glove, and worn several nights, the hands will be found to be soft and white.
Glycerine Jelly for the Skin.
Almond
oil
....
. .
8 ounces.
1
"
"
White curd soap Pure glycerine

1 drachm,
"
I
thyme
"
156
Dissolve the soap in the oil in a water-bath, and add the glycerine and perfumes. Used as a cosmetic
for softening the hands, and is applied in small quantities after washing the hands, and while they are still
moist.
Lip Balm.
Mutton snet Cacoa hutter
. .
.2 ounces.
.
"
" "
Almond
oil
.
2
1.
Glycerine
Powdered borax
Oil of pimento " neroli
...
.
2 drachms.
.20
.
20
drops. "
Powdered benzoin
Color the
oil
.1
drachm.
with a
little
alkanet-root, and
mix by
melting
cold.
all
together, adding the perfume before quite
Fard
Starch
.
Bleu.
.
.
.2 ounces.
1
Talc
Oil
"
2 drachms.
.
. .
.
Mucilage Ultramarine blue
.3
q. s.
drachms.
into small tablets, for on the temples or elsewhere.
Make
marking the blue veins
flard Noir.
Make
and
as above, using a little soap and ivory black, Used to darken the rolling into spills or pencils.
eyebrows.
TOMADES AND COSMETICS.
157
CHAPTER
XI.

IN the preparation of pomades and cosmetics great must be exercised in selecting and compounding the ingredients, which should be fresh and decare
impurities or disagreeable smells, or they will be unfit for the purpose. The perfumer uses for pomades tallow, suet, veal fat, lard, and wax.
all
prived of
All of these greases contain albumen and membrane, which should he removed before using, as they tend
turn rancid in a very short time. The process of washing greases in a small way is performed in this manner. About fifty pounds of lard
to
make them
or suet are put into a clean vessel, which is put inside a larger vessel of water, in which a pound or two of salt is dissolved (a marine bath), or a steam jacket if
melted with two ounces of powdered alum, and then three ounces of table salt, and the heat is continued until all scum has risen, and is skimmed off, when it is allowed to cool. The grease has then to be washed with water to remove all alum and salt. This is done in two ways: first, the grease is again melted, and two quarts of pure water are added, and allowed to boil slowly, when the steam carries off all the smell the alum and salt being deposited at the bottom with the water. In the second process the grease is put in portions on a slab of slate a little inclined, and rubbed with a stone muller, while a stream of clean water pours
at hand.
is
;
The grease
158
ARTS.
gently over the grease while being rubbed, just as a

painter grinds his colors.
"When
finished
it
is
re-
melted to deposit all remaining water. This is rather a tedious process, and, when the material is wanted in quantity, the perfumer can avail himself of machinery invented for the purpose.
For the purpose of having system, perfumers divide and soft body. The first is generally two parts of lard and one of suet or tallow, the latter is five parts of lard and one of tallow, and
their grease into hard
may
be improved' by the addition to each five pounds of an ounce of powdered gum benzoin. In the flower-
growing countries of France and Italy, whence we procure the fine pomades of flowers, the purification
of grease bodies is of sufficient importance to be made a separate trade, and if the perfumer here has a large demand for pomades, a stock of those prepared greases should be kept on hand, as they enter
in different proportions into all of them.
not complete without an assortment of the prepared greases or bodies of benzoin, vanilla, balsams of Tolu and Peru, etc. etc. ; ready for mixing with the different pomades for the hair.
The stock of pomades
is
Benzoin Pomade (or body).
Hard body Powdered gum benzoin

Melt in a water-bath
10 pounds.
.
"
strain.
for twelve hours
and
Tonquin Pomade.
Hard body
.10 pounds.
1
Tonquin beans in coarse powder
"
Let them macerate some days, melting occasionally, and then strain.

Vanilla Pomade.
159
Vanilla beans, cut very fine
Hard body
Melt and
stir
10
\ pound. "
once a day for ten days, when strain.
thus you can make ambrette pomade, using 2 pounds of musk-seed to 10 pounds of body; or musk pomade, using 2 ounces to the 10 pounds ; and orris pomade, taking 2 pounds to the 10 of grease amber;
And
pomade, 2 ounces to the 10 pounds etc. etc. They must all be melted several times before all the perfume will be extracted from the substance. It is also necessary to have on hand coloring body
gris
;
for the different
pomades, as
red, yellow, green, etc.
Yellow Body.
Roco or anatto-seed Hard body
.1
6
pound.
"
Although the coloring matter is on the surface of the seed, it penetrates somewhat below, and therefore
it
best to have the seed coarsely ground ; keep melted several -hours in a water-bath, when strain
it is
and keep in a cool place
for use.
Bed Body.
Carmine
Vermilion
.
.2 ounces.
.
Hard body
Green Body.
Spinach leaves
.
" 4 4 pounds.
*
Hard body
2 pounds. " 4
160
PERFUMERY AXD KIXDRED ARTS.

in a water-bath
and macerate until the leaves After straining again melt and have set aside quietly, that the water of the leaves may go to the bottom. Green of an inferior color can be made with powdered gum guaiacum melted with the
lost their color.
Put
grease. I have
made frequent mention of the flower pomades which we have to procure from the south of
France and other neighboring places, and also the manner of their preparation. They are, of course,
indispensable for making the finest goods. Although all the pomades from which most of the odors have
been extracted by means of alcohol can be used, the alcohol, however, tends to hasten rancidity, but can be extracted by pressing through leather, or by melting with a small portion of water the alcohol, having
;
a greater affinity for the water, will join it and fall to the bottom when the melted pomade is set quietly by.
Pomade
d? Acacia.
.
(Cassie pomade.)
Cassie pomade Hard body
...
.
.
Green
"
Oil of cedrat " almonds (essential) cloves

.
f " | J ounce. 1 drachm,

1 "
1 pound. "
This
is
a pleasant
pomade of greenish-yellow
hue.
It may be necessary to mention that the perfumes are not added until the pomade is nearly cold, and also
that
it
should not be
filled into bottles until it is

;
chilled into a thick
creamy consistence
and again,
that the bottles be not too cold, as they cool the pomade too suddenly, and cause it to shrink from the
glass and have an uneven appearance.
POMADES AXD COSMETICS.
161
Pomade
Benzoin pomade
Vanilla
" "
.
Balsamiqiie.
or
body
"
.
1 pound. "
Tuberose
Hard body
| 1J
"
<<
This pomade can be colored a light-brown with a few drops of caramel.

Bear's Grease Pomade.
Soft body Jasmine pomade
.
.
1| pound.
"
...
.
"
1 drachm..
The genuine
reputation for
is still
had so great a promoting the growth of the hair, and

bear's grease that has
is difficult
much
favored,
and if gotten would for use, and we, therefore, prepare a substitute which is rather an improvement on the genuine article.
ties,
to procure in quantisoon get rancid and unfit
Benzoin Pomade.
Benzoin body Oil of pimento " orange

neroli
... ...
.
2 pounds.
drachm. " 2
|
"
. .
. .
Pomade au Beurre
Soft
de Cacao.
1\
body
. .
pounds.
"
Cocoa-butter
Oil of bergamot "
thyme
"
...
. . .
\ ounce.
1 drachm.
"
\
cassia
Color with gamboge. 11
162

Castor-oil
Hard body
Castor
oil
....
.
and Qlycerine Pomade.

1| pounds,
Vanilla
.
oil

"
neroli
ounce.
1 drachm.
Grum gamboge
to color.
Cowslip) Pomade.
Hard body Jasmine pomade
....
.
1| pound.
i "
Oil of bergamot " cloves " petit-grain Tincture of ambergris

.
2 drachms.
1 drachm. 1 '2 " 1
Crystalline
Pomade.
1 J pound. u
Benne
Castor
oil
oil
.
.
.*
.
i
.
Paraffine
"
wax
"
Oil of bergamot
| ounce.
thyme
cloves
"
1 drachm. "
Color with gamboge.

I will here take occasion to say that the
hard re-
fined paraffine wax is for the uses of the perfumer superior to all other waxes, especially when a semi-trans-
This pomade is of a very pleasing transparent appearance, and a good hair

parent appearance
is
wanted.
dressing.

Crystal Pomade.
103
Castor
oil
Alcohol, 95
....
2 pounds.
1 i
"
Curd soap
"
the soap, first reducing it to shavings, when into a clean tin vessel with the alcohol, and disput solve by the heat of a water-bath ; warm the oil to
Dry
about the same heat, and add to the soap and alcohol, and it is finished. Perfume with oil bergamot, lemonsee also that the bottles it is put grass, and cloves
;
into are
warm.
The
result is a perfectly transparent
pomade.
Geranium Pomade.
body Tolu body or pomade Oil of rose geranium
Color with yellow body.
Heliotrope
Soft
1J pounds.
"
. .
\ ounce.
Pomade.
i
Hard body
Rose pomade
Orris
.
.
pound.
"
pomade Vanilla pomade Tuberose pomade

.
i
.
"
"
Oil neroli "
.1 drachm.
"
.
i
J
"
almonds
Color light brown, if it is not of the proper shade. This is, of course, an imitation, but quite as delicate
and pleasant as
flowers.
if it
were made from the genuine
164
Pomade a
la Jacinth.
. .
(Hyacinth pomade.)
. .
Hard body Tuberose pomade

Jasmine
"
.1 pound.
"
.
Oil of cedrat " cloves " almonds
....
.
.
"
2 drachms.
1 1
"
"
Color with tincture of archil a light purple.
Pomade au Jasmin.
Jasmine pomade Hard body "Vanilla body Oil of rhodium
Color light yellow.
Jonquille
....
.
1 pound.
3
4-
"
1 drachm.
Pomade.
\ pound.
Jonquille pomade
Jasmine
Hard body
'
Tolu
"
....
.
Oil bergamot
2 drachms,
Color yellow with yellow body.
Lavender Pomade.
Hard body Cassie pomade
....
. .
pound.
1 ounce. i
2
(
Oil of lavender (best)
rosemary
"
cloves
1 drachm,
Color light green.
165
As
a matter of course
make an
imitation of a flower
flowers could readily apparatus to conduct the enfleurage, but not having such means, we have to use the best we have, and to
would not be necessary to pomade if the fresh be procured, and we had all the
it
exercise our skill in an imitation.
Limette Pomade.

Oil of limette u
a
....
\\ pound.
1
2
lemon-grass
cloves
| ounce. " 4 1 drachm.
Color green.
Mayflower Pomade.

Eose
Cassie
"
....
1 pound,
Tonquin
Color yellow.
Macassar Pomade.
Hard body
Castor
oil
....
.
. . .
1J pound. " i l
Ambergris pomade Oil of nutmegs cinnamon

"
"
drachm.
u
rosemary
thyme
rose
....
I 30 drops.
Color light red with red body.
166

Marrow Pomade.
body Mace body or pomade Benzoin body Oil bergamot " lemon
. .
Soft
1J pound.
i J
i
"
"
"
"
.'
" cloves
| i
"
Color deep yellow.
This pomade is generally stirred very briskly while cooling with a stirrer like an egg-beater to fill it with This particles of air, making it light and spongy. operation gives a peculiar appearance to pomades, and can be done to all such as may be thought proper.
Mille-fleur
Pomade.
.
Rose pomade
Violet
.
.
.
\ pound. "
J
\
Orange-flower pomade " Benzoin
"
I
.
"
"
Musk
Color brown with caramel.
Musk Pomade.
Rose pomade Hard body Ambergris pomade
'
pound.
"
f J
Musk
"
.
.
.
"
Color brown with caramel.
Myrtle Blossom Pomadb.
Hard body Jasmine pomade Orange-flower pomade

.
.1 pound.
"
i
.
Vanilla Color light yellow.
J i
" "

.[/ Narcissus
167
Hard body Jasmine pomade

Cassie
....
"
Pomade.
f pound.
Rose
Vanilla
Oil of almonds (essential)
.
drachm
Color light yellow.
Hard body
Ambrette
....
"
Neroli Pomade.
1J pound.
Orange-flower pomade
Oil of neroli (bigarade)
petit-grain
2 drachms.
1 "
Color light yellow.

Orange-flower Pomade.
Hard body
Tolu
....
"
.
1J pound.
I
'2
Oil of Portugal " cloves
i i
"
1 ounce. "
Color yellow.
Soft bod/ Rose pomade
....
^.
.
Oriental Cream.
1 pound. "
Benzoin "
Toiiquin
Musk
... ... "...

"
i i
"
Oil of santal " rose
1 drachm,
168
Palma-Rosa Pomade.
Soft body Rose pomade
....
.
.
pound
Cassie
"
Benzoin "
Mace
"
... ...
1
.
Oil of ginger-grass " cloves
2 drachms.
1
Color yellowish-green.
PJiilocome
Pomade.
1 pound.
Purified lard
Beeswax
Cassie
oil
....
.
(from flowers)
"
oil
Rose
oil
"
"
ounces. u
Tuberose
"
Mace pomade
Color pink or yellow.
Primrose Pomade.
body Cassie pomade Eose

Vanilla
Soft
Benzoin
.... "... "... "...

.
1 pound.
Oil of petit-grain
lemon
almonds, (essential)
Color bright yellow.
2
1
1 drachm. "

Quinine Pomade.
Soft
.Rose
169
(Tonic pomade.)
.
.
body
pomade
oil..
...
.
.
1| pound. J
Vanilla
"
Sulphate of quinine Oil of bergamot

.
\ ounce. " J
"
cloves
"
Color light yellow.
Rub up
the quinine in a
wedge wood mortar with
a few drops of aromatic sulphuric acid ; add the vanilla oil, and put into the pomade melted by means
of water-bath, and
stir till cold.
Pomade Romaine.
are of softer bodies than pomades between pomades and oils are much liked by many people, and are easily made by a judicious mixture of the pomades and antique oils, and can be made of any odor of the preceding kinds. I will give an example.
in general, or
;
Roman pomades
Pomade Romaine a
Soft
la Ambrosie.
.
body
oil
oil
oil
.1 pound.
"
Vanilla
Musk
Cassie
|
(from flowers)
.
.
"
"

roses
1 ounce.
....
. .
"
| drachm.
brown, and you have a very pleasant hair-dressing of delicate fragrance.
Mix with the
least possible heat, color light
170

JZondelatia

Rose
Tonquin
"... "...
.
....
.
Pomade.
J pound.
i
\ ounce.
Oil of lavender (best) "
"
bergamot
cloves
"
Color pale yellow.
Pomade
Soft body
....
.
a la
jftose.
Yanilla body Rose pomade Tuberose pomade

Oil of santal " rhodium
1 pound. "
1 drachm, 1
"
Color deep red.
Pomade
Soft
body
....
" "
.
a la Sultane. 1 pound.
Heliotrope pomade
Tuberose Jasmine
i
1 drachm.
1 \ ounce.
Ton quin
Tincture of musk Oil of pimento cedrat
Color light brown.

Tuberose Pomade.
Soft
1
171
body
Tuberose pomade
1 pound. " i
Rose
Benzoin
"
1
4
Oil of cedrat " almonds (essential)
2 drachms.
.
Color bright yellow.

Vanilla Pomade.
Soft
body
Vanilla body
1 pound. " l
Rose pomade Ambergris body Oil of rhodium

Color deep yellow.
1
4
.
"
2 drachms.
Verbena Pomade.

.
J pound,
.
Benzoin
"...
Pomade.
No.
1.
.
4
j,
i
| ounce,
Oil of lemon-grass " lemon

"
cloves
1 drachm,
Color light green.

Violet
Soft
body
f pound.
5.
.
Violet pomade " Cassie " Civet

Oil of rose . " almonds
4<
J.
<t
i
.
"
drachm,
Color light green.
172

Violet
Pomade.
No.
2.
Soft
body
.
.
1 pound.
Cassie pomade " Orris
1
4
1
.
a
'
Peru balsam pomade Oil of almonds

.
"
1 drachm,
Color green.
White Pond Lily Pomade.
body Jasmine pomade

Orange-flower pomade Vanilla pomade
.
Soft
pound,
i
i
.
" "
Oil of almonds, essential
1 drachm,
No
color.
White Rose Pomade.
body Rose pomade Jasmine "

Vanilla
"
Soft
f pound.
.
4
1
Oil of rhodium u rose
drachm, "
No
color.
Ursalina.
(Crystalline bear's grease.)

. . . .
Oil of benne
1J pound.
I
i
Castor
oil
Paraffine
wax
. .
"
Oil of bergamot
2 drachms,
1 1
pimento
" "
santal
cloves

Color with a
of the
oil.
173
little
is
gamboge rubbed with
This
a portion a very pretty looking pomade,
and
is
good
hair dressing.
PJienolin
Pomade.
.
.
Benne
Oil of u
oil
1| pound.
\ | ounce. "
Paraffine
wax
bergamot lemon
cloves
little
...
.
"
....
.
.
1 drachm.
Color with a
tion of the
oil.
carmine, rubbed up with a porpleasant semi-transparent pink
pomade. The paraffin wax, as I have observed, makes a handsome pomade, and is made use of in various new pomades with fancy names, such as vasaline, cosmoline, etc. etc., and is often made with impure
paraffine containing
will not cover.
some of the benzole, which causes an unpleasant smell that a great amount of perfume
Pomade Hongroise.
Diachylon plaster
(For the Moustache.)
Rose pomatum Oil of bergamot ... cinnamon rhodium

.
...
.
.
.1 pound. .2 ounces. .2 drachms,

.
\
\
Put
into small bottles or metal boxes.
Pomade Hongroise. White wax

.
(White.)
.
.
| pound.
Jasmine pomade Canada balsam

Oil of cloves "
...
.
"
.2 ounces.
. .
bergamot.
1 drachm. " 2
174
PERFUMERY AND KIN-DRED ARTS.

Cire a Moustache.
(Moustache wax.)
.
.
"White
wax
| pound.
Oil soap
!
.
Rose pomade
Oil of cloves
...
. .
2 ounces.
1 drachm. " 2
lemon
into small sticks, and color black or brown, remain white, and perfume with the different flavored pomades, in order to give a variety of odors.
Mould
it
or let
Pliilocome
Pomades
Are similar to Roman pomades, except that they are made somewhat harder by the use of lard instead of
body (one In their composition suet to five parts lard). part the perfumer 'can follow any of the formulas given
oil,
or about the consistence of the soft
for pomades. Keeping in view that philocomes must be somewhat softer, and for winter use they are more desirable, I have recommended the infused pomades of amber, benzoin, tolu, etc., to be made of hard body, because they keep better, and if wanted for a softer
pomade
it
is
kind needed.
very easy to dilute according to the I here give a formula or two as an ex-
ample of philocome pomades.

Pliilocome a la Mousseline.
Soft body Lard Rose pomade

. .
.2 pounds.
.
1
|
"
Musk
Benzoin
Vanilla Color yellow.
"
.
"
"
"
"
.
"
.
J
|

Pliilocome Moelle de Bceuf.
175
Soft
body
.2 pounds.
2
J
" 1 ounce. "
Washed
flower
pomade
of any
odor Oil of bergamot

"
....
.
. .
lemon
cloves
"
"
Color deep yellow.
Thus the perfumer can make any

with the materials at hand.
desired philocome
Cosmetics or Stick Pomatums.
Cosmetics are a still harder product than those we have thus far treated of, and should be made of tallow from which the oil has been pressed at about the temperature of 70 Fahr., for otherwise in our warm summers the oil exudes, and soils the label, making it unsalable. This tallow can be procured of steam candle manufacturers, who are obliged to press out the oil as a preparatory process but if the perfumer is making soap he had better press it him;
self,
as the tallow oil
is
very useful in soap-making
softer soap than the tallow
having less stearine in it. This pressed tallow or suet is melted in about the " proportion of four pounds to one of wax. As these pomatums are intended for the beard, hardness is of value. They are moulded into batons or sticks with
tin
moulds of
oval, round, or square form.
They
are
open at each end, the upper end being attached to a tin pan, and secured below by strips of tin to prevent them moving, and below there is a similar pan in which a layer of grease is first poured, and the lower ends of moulds placed, and when this grease
176
hardens

it
prevents the -melted grease that you now moulds from passing through. "When all becomes solid the lower pan is removed, and the batons are pushed out, when they can easily be cut to the desired uniform length. The paraffine wax I have found a most useful substitute for beeswax, as it is
fill
in the
of that peculiar consistence that causes the sticks to be smooth and slide from the mould as well as to have
I have envelop with foil. made in this manner thousands of grosses of lower priced cosmetics perfumed with essential oils, and a smoother surface to
sent
them
to the hottest climates,
and they have
given entire satisfaction.
For the finer cosmetics, perfumed with the flowers, the French flower pomades are used in such proportions as to insure their remaining solid. For example
Violet Cosmetic.
Yiolet pomade "White wax
....
1 pound. " \
It requires this amount of wax to make it sufficiently solid to keep hard during our summer months.
of flowers, when washed with alcohol and bouquets, can be used with advantage in cosmetics by pressing out the alcohol and some of the oil through leather or canvas bags, when they can be hardened with wax and a portion of essential oils added to give more fragrance; and moulded en baton.
The pomades
for the extracts
HAIR OILS AND HAIR TOXICS.
CHAPTER
XII.

ages, in barbarous as well as in civilized countries, the hair has been the subject of great care
all
IN
and attention, and ointments, unguents, and oils, have from time immemorial been in use for anointing and dressing it. In my history of perfumes these unguents have been mentioned as among the most important of perfumes, and in fact were used long ages before spirituous essences and perfumes were known. Having given a detailed account of the pomades, etc., most in vogue, and selected with care from hundreds of recipes at my command, I shall now give instructions for the preparation of oils and tonics for dressing, fixing, and promoting the growth of the hair, such as antique and hygienic oils, tonics,
restoratives, washes, fixatures, depilatories, etc. The French flower oils, as I have frequently
men-
tioned, are
made
in a similar
manner
;
to the
pomades
by maceration and absorption have, or should have, the same amount of odor that the pomade contains,
and can be treated in precisely the same manner and in the same proportions with alcohol to extract the odors from them. By some operators they are thought best, as they are certainly most convenient
to use.
In compounding the antique and hygienic oils, an assortment of the oils of benzoin, ambergris, musk, and orris, Tolu and Peru balsams, called ambrosial
12
178
oils,
can be prepared in about the same proportions as the recipes call for when pomades are used; for example I will give
Huile a VAmbre.
Ambergris Benne oil
.2 pints.
\ ounce.
Rub up
the
oil.
If
the ambergris in a mortar with a portion of it adhere to the mortar, a little clean
sand can be added with advantage to cause a division

in a bottle, and keep in a warm place, frequently agitating, for a fortnight, or even a month, as it takes a long while for the oil to dissolve
of the particles.
Put
it;
and
in this
manner you can prepare
all
the other
oils, in proportion suited to the amount of contain, or with an eye to their cost.
aroma they
Antique
oil.
oils are all
the oils of flowers or their

is
combinations, and the base
either fine olive or benne
first is well known to every one, and the which is equally good for the purposes, is oblatter, tained from the seeds of the sesame plant, Moringa It is white, free from odor, and has the aptera.
The
property of keeping sweet a long time. I will give the compound antique oils most in vogue.
Huile Antique au Bouquet.
Benne
Cassie
oil
oil
oil
.
.
.
,f
pound.
"
Jasmine Rose oil

Yanilla
"
i
|.
" " "
oil
Oil of bergamot
neroli
...
. .
1 drachm. " i

Huile Antique a la Fleur de Granger.
179
Benne
oil
Orange-flower
oil
.
1 pound. "
.
.
Jasmine Benzoin
"
. .
i J
.
"
"
1 drachm.
Huile Antique a
la Heliotrope.
Benne oil Rose oil

Tuberose
oil
.
. .
f pound.
|
"
Vanilla oil Oil of almonds, essential
" | 1 drachm.
"
Huile Antique au Jasmine.
Benne
Cassie
oil oil
.
.
1.
.
pound.
"
"
Jasmine
Civet
oil
i
.
oil
"
Huile Antique au Millefleur.
Benne oil Rose oil

Tuberose
oil
oil
. .
f pound.
"
Jasmine
Cassie
Or. flower
oil
oil
oil
.....2
.
"
a
ounces.
"
Vanilla
2 2
.
. .
.
"
"*
Styrax
oil
2
J
Oil of neroli
"
bergamot
cloves
...
drachm.
"

Huile Antique a la Rose.
Benne oil Eose oil

Or. flower
f pound. " f
oil
1
J
.
"
" "
Musk
oil
.
Otto of roses
Huile Antique a la Tuberose.
Benne
oil
1 pound.
J " |
Tuberose oil Jasmine oil

Orris
oil
Benzoin
oil
.....2
.
. .
ounces.
u
2
\
drachm.
Huile Antique a
la Vanilla.
. .
Benne
Eose
oil
oil
.1
.
pound.
"
"
Vanilla
oil
Ambergris Tolu oil
oil
.2 ounces.
2
"
Huile Antique a
la Violette.
.
Benne
Violet
Orris
oil
oil
.1 pound.
"
\
oil
Cassie
oil
oil
.2 ounces.
.
"
Benzoin
2.
"
1 drachm.
oils are usually colored only by the flowers the process of enfleurage, and the perfumer is satisfied with the natural yellow, green, or brownish tinge so imparted. If he desires a color for them, it is easy
in
These
HAIK OILS AXD HAIR TOXICS.

to
I
181
impregnate the oils with the different colors needed. have always kept on hand yellow oils colored with gamboge or roco, red oil with alkanet or carmine, green oils with gum gnaiacum or with leaves, which were sufficient for all purposes.
Huile Philocome
Is really another name for the antique oils, although the term is sometimes applied to the soft pomades
already noticed.
Huile Hygienique
name applied to the antique oils I have the formulas for, and the perfumer can, already given if he has the stock of oils I have recommended, comIs yet another
pound and invent almost any demands.
oils
which the market
Bear's Oil.
so long and favorably known as beneficial in promoting the growth of the hair, and as im-
Bear's
oil,
proving its appearance, is now very seldom genuine, as all kinds of bland oils, vegetable and animal, have been used under that name, and generally with benefit to the user, as the genuine oil is scarce, and soon be-
comes rancid in spite of all efforts to prevent it, no doubt because of the large amount of albuminous
matter
it
contains.
I usually prepared
Oil of benne " "

"
"
....
.
.
it
thus
2 pounds. \ ounce.
bergamot lemon
cloves
thyme
.1
.
\
1
"
drachm.
"
Color a light yellow.
182

Aromatic Oil of Flowers.
oil,
colored red
HAIR OILS AND HAIR TOXICS.

Grecian Golden
Oil.
183
Benne
Cassie
oil
"
. . .
3 pints. " 1
Oil of bergamot " cloves " cassie
....
.
.
f ounce. " I 1 drachm.
Color a deep yellow with the roco
oil.
Glycerine
Hair
.
Oil.
.
.
Pure glycerine
Alcohol
Oil of lemon
neroli
..
1J pint.
i
J ounce.
.1
. .
drachm.
"
almonds
Tincture of saffron
Dissolve the oils with the alcohol and tincture, and agitate with the glycerine, which will become clear in
the course of a few hours.
Florentine Hair Oil.
Benne
Orris
oil
2| pints.
i "
|
\ 1 ounce.
oil
oil
oil
. .
.
Cassie
Benzoin
Oil of Portugal (orange) " cloves
...
.
.1 drachm.
Color yellow.
Indian Hair
Oil.
.
Benne
Styrax
Orris
oil oil
.3 pints.
.
\ pint.
"
oil
184:

Oil of orange
^ ounce. 1 drachm,
cinnamon
sassafras
Color yellow.
Japanese Hair
Oil.
Benne oil Rose oil

Tolu
oil
oil
3 pints.
l 5
....
.
Musk
"
Oil of geranium " santal
| ounce.
4 1 drachm,
pimento
Color yellow.
Macassar
Oil.
Benne
Castor
oil oil
3 pints.
1 "
1 drachm,
.
Oil of rosemary " rhodium
2
1
" "
" "
nutmegs bergamot thyme cinnamon
2
1 1
"
Color deep red with alkanet.
Huile de Noisette.
(Hazelnut
oil.)
Hazelnut
oil
Oil of bergamot "
lemon
"
pints. \ ounce. "
cloves
neroli
1 drachm,
Color light yellow.

Hazelnut
oil is
185
made
for the use of the perfumer,

is
imported from France, where it is and when sweet
and pure
very pleasant.
Rose Hair
Oil of benne
Castor
oil
Oil of bergamot
neroli
"
... .3 ...
.
Oil.
pints.
"
\ ounce. 1 drachm.
rhodium
geranium
2
2
"
"
Color red with alkanet

JKose
oil.
Hair
Oil.
(Common.)
. .
Cotton-seed oil (refined) Oil of rosemary
pints.
orange
"
thyme
\ ounce. " 1 " J
Color red with alkanet.
and properly refined (not bleached), is a very sweet', bland oil, and for low priced hair oils is very suitable. There are great quantities of it bottled and sold as olive oil, but while it has none of the flavor of olive oil,, it is yet quite For making cheap hair oils it is only harmless.
Cotton-seed
oil,
when
fresh
necessary to select the refined oil of a light bright yellow color, taking care to avoid the oil bleached
with sulphuric acid, as the acid oxidizes the gives it a rancid smell.
if well
oil
and
Hair tonics are a useful class of preparations, that made, and with some medicinal properties for
improving the growth or beautifying the appearance
186
of the hair, command a ready sale. But the perfumer must be careful that nothing injurious is put into
them, in fact nothing that he does not

of.
know the
effect
It is necessary for
me
to the operator, to
make himself acquainted with
to give frequent cautions the
properties and effects of the most important chemical substances. I am aware that many books of formulas
and recipes contain improper combinations, hence the occasion of frequent warning.
Cristianfs Chemical Cathairon.
(Hair restorative.)
.
Castor
oil
Alcohol, 95 Tincture of cantharides

.
1| pints. " 6 2 ounces.

1
"
Borax
Water
Oil of lavender "
cloves
.
. .
4
.
" "
"
bergamot
.
i
.
"
.
.
The borax
is
dissolved in the water
by
heat,
and
added by slow degrees to the other ingredients already mixed, and if the alcohol is strong it will not be milky. It is colored slightly with a little caramel. This cathairon has been in the market for twenty-five years, and has been very popular, for it is a useful combination, and a very suitable hair dressing for
ladies, as
it
does not grease the dress.
CristianVs Cococydonia.
(Cocoanut
oil
and quince
seed.)
Cocoanut
Castor Alcohol
oil
J pint.
"
.
I
6
"
"

Slippery elm bark
. .
187
Water
Oil of bergamot
.
. .
1 ounce. " 4
1 \
"
lemon
" "
"
.
pimento almonds
...
.
.
"
1 drachm.
oil is mixed with the castor oil, and mixed slowly with them at a slight heat. The elm bark in coarse powder is dissolved in the water and strained, and mixed by agitation with the rest. Lastly it is filtered, perfumed, and colored
The cocoanut
the alcohol
with a
little
tincture of gamboge.
popular hair
dressing.
Eau
Lustral.
.
(Hair restorative.)
Castor oil Linseed oil Tincture of cantharides Alcohol, 95

. .
.
.....1
.
pint.
2 ounces.
6| pints.
1 ounce. "
Oil of bergamot " lemon " cloves

"
neroli
.1
"
drachm.
The two oils are mixed together, and dissolved in the spirit by agitation. "When combined add the tincture of cantharides and perfumes, and color red with tincture of archil. This has been a standard
preparation for many years, and I think a valuable one, as it stimulates the scalp, and gives great softness and glossiness to the hair.
188

Brazilian Amber Gloss.
Castor
oil
Alcohol, 80 Oil of geranium

cloves
....
.
.
1 pint.
"
| ounce,
thyme
I I
" "
Color with caramel and tincture of roco.

Glycerine and Lime-juice.
(Hair tonic.)
.
Glycerine
.2 ounces. .2 ounces.
8
"
The
juice of 6 lemons.
.
Castor oil Alcohol
Liquor potassa, U. S. P. Orange-flower water Oil of lemon

.
.
"
. .
"
2 drachms.
Mix
oil
the
oil
and
alcohol, then the liquor potassa
and
of lemon, then
mix the
lemon-juice, orange-flower
water and glycerine, and add to the rest by portions at a time, and agitate frequently. There are no means
of
making it a perfectly homogeneous compound except by agitation, but it is a beautiful article for the
keeping the scalp clean and
cool.
hair,
Ammoniated Hair
Alcohol, 95 Castor oil
....
.
Tonic.
Aqua ammonia
Rose-water
4 ounces. " 4 " 2

6
1
" "
.1 drachm.
This
lar.
is
also a
good tonic that has been very popu-

Tonique de The.
189
Black
tea,
strong
.
.
.1 pint.
i
i
Bay rum
Spirits of
u
"
rosemary
Glycerine
"
Black tea is supposed by some persons to be a promoter of the growth of the hair. However that may be, my formula, if the tea have or have not any effect,
will
make
good hair wash.

Glycerine Hair Tonic.
Glycerine, pure
Borax
Rose-water Alcohol
..
Oil of petit-grain
rosemary
cloves
.2 pints. .2 ounces. .1 drachm, .2

.
1 pint. \ ounce.
This very pleasant hair tonic is prepared by dissolving the borax in the water, the perfume in the It should be clear, alcohol, and mixing all together.
and
fron.
if
colored let
it
be yellow with tincture of safAthenian.
Eau
Sassafras bark
Water
Alcohol
Oil of cloves "
... ...
.
.
.2 quarts.
.1
.
J pound.
4 ounces. drachm.
2
"
bergamot
This hair tonic has a great reputation, and an extensive sale in Continental Europe, where the sassafras is considered a great cure-all.
190

Quinine Hair Tonic.
Glycerine Alcohol
.
. . .
\ pint.
J
. . . . .
.
"
Orange-flower water Quinine Oil of rhodium

.
.1
.
1J drachm.
"
"
"
1 1
geranium
cloves
"
Color a light red with tincture of archil.

Dissolve the quinine with a few drops of aromatic sulphuric acid, then the orange-flower water, "then the glycerine, lastly add the alcohol in which the oils
are dissolved.
Camphor Lotion for

Spirits of camphor,
the
Hair.
U.
.
S.
P.
.
.2 ounces.
" i 1 drachm.
pints.
Oil of rosemary cloves
Rose-water
.....2 ...
.
.
Rosemary Hair Wash.

Spirits of rosemary
.1 pint.
1
"
Rose-water Carbonate of potash
.2 drachms.
1 pint,
Bay Rum Hair

Bay rum
Borax
Rose-water
.
Tonic.
.1 pint.
\ ounce.
HAIR OILS AND HAIR TOPICS.

Curling Fluid.
191
Mucilage of
Rose-water
gum
. .
Arabic
.
2 ounces.
1
"
Salts of tartar
1| pint.
(from flowers) Orange-flower Color with liquid carmine.
oil
4 ounces.
New
Bay
Shampoo England rum

.
Cristiani's
Lotion.
.
.1
.
pint.
f
2 ounces.
1
Glycerine Carbonate of ammonia
Borax
Shampoo Liquid.
Salts of tartar
. .
.2 ounces.
.
Bay rum
Rose-water
"Water
...
.
.
2
1 "
"
.1 pint.
amere.)
Bandoline.
(PAmande
.
Gum
tragacanth Orange-flower water
.2 ounces. .1 pint.
.
Water
Essential
oil
of almonds
7 2 drachms.
"
Alcohol
4 ounces.
Bandoline a
la Hose.
The same, but perfumed with rose-water
or otto of
rose, and colored pink with liquid carmine. The gum is dissolved for a day or two in the water, stirred well and strained, and the alcohol with the
perfume added.
102
ARTS.
Quince Seed Fixature or Bandoline.
Quince seed
Glycerine
...
red.
| ounce.
Rose-water Color if desired yellow or

It will be seen that I
....
make
"
1 pint.
frequent use of glycerine (the sweet principle of fat), which I consider one of the most useful substances ever discovered for the
use of the perfumer. When pure it is perfectly odorless,, and has a specific gravity of 1.28, and its proIt mixes in all proportions perties are remarkable.
to the skin
with alcohol and water; is very emollient, softening and hair without greasing undergoes no change in the air, and dissolves some substances not
;
soluble in
It
is
is
or syrup. used in medicine as a vehicle for

oil
many
drugs,
added to poultices to prevent their hardening, beAs a cosmetic it sides being soothing in its effects.
invaluable, either in lotions or in soaps, gives clearness to the skin, is softening, cooling, and refreshing, and is a remedy for all chafing, chapping, ringworms,
is
hardness, and excoriations of the skin. I have given a variety of formulas for hair restoratives,
and such as
know
to be harmless
from a
long experience in the manufacture of all such preparations, and refrain from giving hundreds that I deem worthless, or of such a nature that in careless hands
might do much injury for they call for caustic alkali, corrosive' acids, or dangerous poisonous substances, calculated to do more harm than good, and to bring much dishonor on the perfumer's art. To judge from the numerous substances that the old and obsolete books recommend as remedies and
;
'
193
restoratives for the hair, one would feel that they had gone to both the vegetable and the animal kingdoms,
searched heaven and earth, and gone under the earth to find them.
CHAPTER
XIII.

I
KNOW
full
well the difficulties of
my
position
while trying to give formulas that will be effective and at the same time harmless, particularly when it
comes to dyeing living hair, for the art of dyeing is a chemical one, and to dye silk and wool there is the experience of hundreds to consult, but the caustic and corrosive substances so used could not be applied to anything attached to the living out destroying or injuring the skin.
body with-
Dyeing the hair has been practised from very early times, as we read of its being universal among the
women
nations
it
of
Egypt
use
powder called
still
to blacken the eyelids with a black Indeed they and all eastern kohl.
many dyes
or stains.
Among some
is
the custom to ornament the face with blue
patches or spots, to blacken the eyelashes, eyebrows, and eyelids; to stain the nails and palms of the
hands and soles of the feet an orange-color with the leaves of the henna, and the cheeks they paint red. So in our own time and country the custom of dyeing the
effects
mostly by those who hope to conceal the of time and age in turning it gray, is very 13
hair,
194
common, and they use great quantities of advertised nostrums that are often deleterious in their effects.
basis of nearly all hair dye is either lead or and they are susceptible of but few modificasilver, Bismuth and pyrogallic acid can be used, but tions. their action is not so certain. Copper and iron are used as auxiliaries in some of the formulas.
The
Lead Dye.
Litharge
.
.
.2 ounces.
.
Fresh slaked lime
Bicarbonate of potash
4 2
"
Mix thoroughly, and keep in well-corked bottles. This powder is mixed with water into a creamy consistence and applied to the hair, with something put over it to keep in the moisture, as it acts only when In about four hours' time it is supposed to dry, wet. and is rubbed out of the hair, when the hair is
washed in warm water, oiled, and arranged. Care must be taken to have the hair perfectly clean and
free
from grease, or it will not dye. and I think a better preparation.
I give another,
Indian Hair Dye.
Sugar of lead, powdered " Quicklime

:Starch "
2 ounces.
4
2
Applied as the last, and time. I submit another

convenient.
will
dye
in a
much
shorter
in liquid form,
and more

Egyptian Hair Dye.
Litharge Carbonate of lead Hydrated oxide of bismuth Fresh slaked lime
. .
.
195
.1 ounce.
.
1
\
"
" "
pint.
Distilled water
.1
This
is
allowed to stand after being well mixed,
and the larger portion of the water poured off; the sediment is the dye, and is very active, dyeing the hair in about half an hour brown or black, according to the length of time it is on it. Another lead dye, very much used at the present time, is made in this
manner.
Hair Color
Acetate of lead
.
Restorer.
.
Lac sulphur
Glycerine Rose-water
.
...
.
.2 drachms. .3 .4 ounces.
.
12
"
Perfume
This
is
to taste.
applied daily until the hair changes to the desired shade. This preparation is the usual form of
almost
all
of the advertised nostrums for the purpose,

care, as its effects
and must be used with

people are injurious.
on some
Bismuth Lye.
(Two
No.
1.
preparations.)
Hydrosulphate of ammonia
Distilled rose-water
fl.
ounces. "
196

No.
Nitrate of bismuth
2.
.
.1
.
ounce.
s.
Aqua ammonia, FFF.

.
.4 ounces.
is
q.
For No. 2 the bismuth is put into a glass, and the aqua ammonia added, drop by drop, while rubbing
until dissolved,
when
the balance of the water
use this dye, the hair is thoroughly washed till wet with the first solution, left to dry, and agam wetted and dried when the No. 2 is applied
added.
;
To
with a soft brush, carefully dividing the hair that This is a much safer dye all parts may receive it. than lead, and with care and skill the hair can be
made
hue.
to look
more natural, as
Colornerus.
it
gives a brownish
(Silver dye.)
.
.
Nitrate of silver
Nitrate of copper
.1 ounce. .1 drachm. .8 ounces.

.
Aqua ammonia
The
silver
q. s.
and copper are triturated in a glass mortar, and aqua ammonia added until the liquid becomes of a clear blue color. This dye is applied to the clean hair, and exposed to the light some time, when a black or brown color comes according to the
strength
;
for
brown
it is
usual to dilute
it.
Another Silver Dye.
Oxide of
silver
...
.
.1
.
ounce.
Aqua ammonia
Sap green
.
.
.6 ounces.
.10
grains.
^q. s.
197
Triturate the oxide of silver with the sap green, dropping in the aqna ammonia till dissolved, when
add the
last
of the water.
This
is
similar in
its effects
to the last, and used in the
same manner.
preparations.)
Silver Dye.
(Two
1.
No.
Mordant.
Sulphuret of potassium Distilled water Liquor potassa, U. S. P.
....
.
1| ounces. 8
\
To be kept
well stopped, and free from the light.
No.
titrate of silver
2.
.
.6 drachms. .8 ounces.
is
This
is
the most popular form of dye, and with a

called in-
little skill is
very effective. I give another form of silver dye that

it
stantaneous, as
dyes at once.
Another Silver Dye.
(Two
preparations.)
No.
Pyrogallic acid Distilled water
Rectified spirit
1.
.
Mordant.
...
. . . .
.
.2"
1 ounce. " 6
Mix and
filter.
No.
Nitrate of silver
Pistilled rose-water
2.
.
.1 ounce. .1
.10
grains.
Indigo
If not clear let
it
stand a day or two.
198
This is an instantaneous dye, and makes a very black color. If wanted brown, the mordant and the dye should both be diluted with one part of rosewater to two of the mixture. These dyes, being of lunar caustic, dye the skin as well as the hair, and care should be taken to keep them off the hands, etc. If they should so stain, it
can be removed with a strong solution of iodide of Should the finger-nails get potassium in water. it will be necessary to use a sharp penknife stained,
to scrape
them
off.
Italian
Hair Dye.
(Two
1.
preparations.)
No.
Hydrosulphuret of ammonia Liquor potassa Distilled water

.
.
7 drachms.
.3
.
10
"
No.
Nitrate of silver Nitrate of iron
Distilled water
2.
.
.
-Is
.
drachm.
...
2 ounces.
This,
when
skilfully applied, dies a fine black.
The Turks dye their beards a very fine rich brown or black by means of a metal found in the East, said
I think it is to be iron pyrites, but that is doubtful. an alloy of iron and copper in a state of oxide. They
use for a mordant roasted Aleppo galls with some henna, and mixed with starch. In dying the beard
they
first
mix up the
gall
powder into a paste with

it
water, and thoroughly rub
into the beard, letting it dry, and if wanted jet black it is necessary to repeat this application, taking care not to get it on the
HAIR DYES. AND DEPILATORIES.

skin.
199
After the lapse of some hours the metal dye treated in the same way, and gently rubbed into the beard, when a fine color is produced, according to the quantity used or the length of time used in its application. After this operation henna is sometimes applied to give a richer hue and soften the
is
beard.
Vegetable
Hair Dye.
.
Pyrogallic acid "Warm water
1 ounce.
"
This dye is applied daily for about a week, and turns the hair a brownish or reddish hue.
German
Vegetable
Hair Dye
Is a strong tincture of the green walnut hulls scented, and will stain some hair a rich brown hue.
the most of these dyes are chemical, it is necessary to give a word of caution to those who prepare and to those who use them. I have given the most
As
formulas contain cyanides, etc. The frequent use of the litharge dye injures the hair, the lime acts upon the hair bulbs and destroys
harmless, for
many
liquid lead dye, if used a great length of time, will produce the painter's colic or other and worse afflictions. The silver dyes are not so danger-
them.
The
ous, though we read of many bad effects produced by their constant use. Yet I have never observed any,
if
I may except an effect upon the eyesight by a constant dyeing of the beard for a number of years. The recent rage among fashionable ladies for blonde hair has caused many nostrums to be advertised for
changing the hair to that desired shade, but this is a more difficult operation than that of making it black
200

Caustic alkali has a partial
effect in de-
or brown.
stroying the natural color of the hair, but unfortunately a few applications will take out all the hair. And then again dyeing red and yellow is recommended in the manner of dyeing cloths those colors, but they
very unnatural colors. The only harmless method I can recommend, is to use some powder or pomade, holding some blond pigment, but
are, if successful,
a temporary expedient and quite troublesome. will, however, give some formulas.
it is
Powder Blond.
(Yellow powder
Levigated talc
....
. .
.
.
for the hair.)

1
pound.
Yellow lake
Perfume
as required.
q. s.
Pommade
Blonde.
. .
(Yellow powder.)
.
Soft body Yellow lake
.1 pound.
.
q.
s.
Perfume
as desired.
is
In preparing them, it thorough combination. o
only necessary to
make
The
Circassian beauties of the Sultan's harem are
said to dye their hair an orange-red with henna, and from what I know of this plant, it may be possible to do so, but it would be to our eye an unpleasant hue.
In early times the ladies of
Rome
used to repair to
their house tops and expose their hair to the influence of the sun's rays after wetting it with an alkali. This would appear to be the most feasible expedient
known.
Depilatory powders for removing superfluous hair are in demand by ladies having such disfigurement

upon
their arms, neck,
;
201
and lips these are chemical and sometimes very poisonous, yet with preparations, care and properly used are effective.
Ponder
Epilatoire.
(Depilatory powder.)
.
Hydrosulphuret of sodium
Quicklime
Starch
.5
1| ounce.
"
Keep
in well-stoppered vials.
used, a small portion and sufficient only for the time, is made into a paste with water, applied and kept on until the smarting is painful, when it is
When
washed
cerine
off
with
warm
water, and cold cream or gly-
is
applied to the part.
Poudre
Orpiment Quicklime
Starch
.
.
Subtile.
.
.
| ounce. " 5
"
very poisonous, and should be used with care, and on but a small portion of the surface at a time, to avoid absorbing the sulphuret of arsenic. Used as the other, being careful not to blister the
This
is
skin.
Depilatory Liquid. Sulphuret of barium

. .
.3 ounces.
12
Water
A little powdered
paration.
starch
is
wetted with this solu-
tion, and immediately applied, and when dry it can be removed and takes the hair with it. A safe pre-
202

Depilatory Pomade.
Quicklime Soda ash

Soft
.2 ounces.
2
body
in a mortar.
Rubbed together
This
is
not so rapid
in its action, but safer for tender skins. Oriental rasma is a similar preparation in the second recipe
given, and
much used by
the Turkish
women, and
its use.
again I call attention to the danger attending
Suet
......
Eyebrow
Pencil.
.
Curd soap
Ivory black
.
. .
1 pound. "
\
q. s.
about the size of a lead pencil, covered with colored foil, or put in a metal
This
is
rolled into spills
case.
Perhaps some of the numerous dyes for yellow might be applied to giving a blonde shade to the hair, as I see a formula for the purpose that first gives the acetate of lead for a mordant, and afterwards a solution of chlorate of potash. This -would give a bright yellow that might be toned down with
Goulard's extract of lead. And another in which sulphate of iron is used as a mordant, and when dry the hair is washed with lime-water; this gives a more natural hue or a yellowish brown. But as I have remarked, it may be easy to dye wool and hair when off the head, but extremely difficult when on the person.
a
little
THE TEETH, THE GUMS, AND THE BREATH.
203
CHAPTER
XIY.

I
SHALL now return
to a
more agreeable
class
of articles, and in giving
my
formulas for the nume-
rous powders and washes for the teeth, I cannot forbear some remarks on these most useful preparations, for by a careful and prudent use of them, the
many
vented.
causes of early decay and loss may be preThe accumulation of tartar, the softening
and swelling of the gums, and the undue acidity of the saliva are the general causes of their injury and In view, therefore, to overcome these destruction. In causes, we study to have the proper ingredients.
powder we require something sufficiently insoluble and gritty to remove the tartar some substance of
;
harden the gums, and, when there is much acidity of the mouth, an alkaline substance must be used to neutralize it. In the mouth washes we can only, of course, endeavor to overcome the two last causes. Regarding the choice of the proper kind of toothbrush to assist the cleansing power of the powder, there is but little to say, as each person should be a judge of the kind which he himself requires. Of the substances used in tooth-powders, charcoal and pumice-stone, bath brick, cuttle-fish bone are, for constant use, almost too resisting and hard, and are
an astringent nature
to
apt to injure the enamel. I think prepared or precipitated chalk is the best basis for the powders,
unless
the
teeth
have been very much neglected,
204
when some substance of a more gritty nature should be used, for which I recommend powdered cuttle-fish
bone.
Rose Tooth Powder.

Precipitated chalk Powdered white sugar " orris root
. .
(Cristiani's.)
. .
1| pound.
"
.5 .5
. .
cuttle-fish
bone
.
2 ounces.
"
\
|
Carmine
Oil of rose "
.....
.
drachm.
"
bergamot
Tincture of
musk
"
The
chalk, orris, sugar,
and
cuttle-fish
are
all
mixed together. The carmine is mixed in a mortar with a few drops of aqua ammonia to bring out the color, and the mixed powder is added by degrees. Lastly the perfumes are added, and the whole sieved
to effect a thorough combination.
This
is
a very
handsome appearance, and fine flavor, generally liked, though it lacks any astringent property, but is well suited to keep good teeth in good order.
pleasant powder, of
and
is
Poudre Dentifrice Allemande.
Sugar of milk Levigated pumice

.
.....2
.
1 pound.
ounces.
ounces.
Sulphate of quinia Prepared chalk
.2 drachms.
.12
2 drachms.
Carmine lake
Oil of lavender
.....1 ...
. .
drachm,
"
"
lemon
cloves
2
|
Mix and
sieve.
THE TEETH, THE GUMS, AT^D THE BREATH.

Poudre Dentifrice de Menthe.
Precipitated chalk
.
205
Powdered sugar
"
orris root
Oil of rosemary
peppermint
.....3
.
1^ pound. " J i 2 drachms.
Mix and
sieve.
Detergent Tooth Powder.
Precipitated chalk
1^ pounds.
2 ounces.
Powdered myrrh
"
borax
sugar of milk
orris root
"
"
Oil of cloves " cinnamon. " coriander
...
. .
,
4 4
"
"
1 drachm.
Camphorated Dentifrice.
Precipitated chalk Powdered orris root
.1 pound.
"
.
sugar
" "
camphor
Rub up
the camphor in a mortar with a few drops
of alcohol and add the other powders.
Charcoal Tooth Powder.
Powdered charcoal
Prepared chalk Powdered catechu
.
1^ pound.
'
i 2 ounces.
.
"
orris root
(4
4
1
1
"
"
cassie
cloves
Mix and
sieve.
206

Coral Tooth Powder.
Prepared chalk
Powdered
"
cuttle-fish
1J pound. 2 ounces.
| pound. 2 ounces.
red coral
Bole Armenia
Oil of cloves " cassia
"
.
1 drachm. u 1
1
'2
fennel
"
Tincture of vanilla
musk
Mix and
sieve.
Aromatic Tooth Powder.

Prepared chalk Cuttle-fish bone
.
1 pound. 2 ounces
Carmine lake Powdered sugar " calamus

"
cloves
cassia
ambrette seed cinchona

"
bicarbonate of soda
2
ti
Poudre Dentifrice Hyjienique.
( Cri s
an
's. )

Oil of rose "
.
.
207
cloves
coriander
"
fennel
"
Tincture of vanilla
musk
30 drops. " 10 " 20 " 10 " 30 " 20
This powder is deservedly popular, as it contains every requisite of a good tooth powder, and its flavor is very pleasant.
Peruvian Tooth Powder
Powdered yellow bark

"
orris root
.
pound.
2 ounces.
1 pound. 2 ounces. 1 drachm.
myrrh
Precipitated chalk Bole Armenia Oil of cloves
caraway
Soap
Dentifrice.
1
Precipitated chalk
pound.
Powdered
orris
1
4
myrrh
white soap
"
saffron
,
2 ounces.
3
1
"
"
Oil of lavender
2 drachms.
As a matter of course, every druggist thinks he can make the best tooth powder, though he may indiscriminately put into it bath-brick, pumice-stone, and charcoal, which, if the purchaser will use perwear out all the teeth that nature him and so in tooth pastes I will give only gave such as meet my approval.
severingly, will
;
208

Rose Tooth Paste.
Prepared chalk Rose pink
.
.
Powdered rose leaves
1J pound. " J i
q. s.
Honey
Otto of rose
....
.
Carmine liquid
Tincture of
| drachm. " i
musk
.20
drops.
The powders
into a soft
are all put together and then made mass with the honey, and put into China
hoxes.
Coral Tooth Paste.
Powdered red
coral
Cuttle-fish bone
.2 ounces.
.
J pound.
Prepared chalk Cochineal
Cream of tartar
Honey of roses
Oil of cloves
Alum
Make
honey of roses.
..... .....2
. .
1 pound. 2 ounces.
2
s.
"
q.
| drachm.
ounces.
into a fine powder,
and into a mass with the
Charcoal Tooth Paste.
Powdered willow charcoal

orris root
.
.
myrrh
Prepared chalk Oil of peppermint
.2 ounces.
.
1 pound, "
\ pound.
\
q.
drachm.
s.
Honey

Aromatic Tooth Paste.
Precipitated chalk
209
1 pound.
Bole Armenia
Powdered
"
orris root
cloves
! 2 ounces.
"
"
cinnamon
coriander
cuttle-fish
2
2 2
q.
s.
bone
Honey
of roses
Peruvian Tooth Paste.

Prepared chalk
.
Powdered
"
"
orris
and myrrh, each

.
1J pound, 2 ounces.
yellow bark cuttle-fish bone
4
2
q.
s.
" "
Honey
Soap Tooth Paste.
Powdered white Powdered

"
castile soap
.
.
Precipitated chalk
cuttle-fish
J pound. " 1
aquilla bark
.
2 ounces. " 2
Oil of coriander "

"
.30
. .
pimento
lavender
50 20
q.
drops. "
"
s.
Honey
Violet Tooth Paste.
Prepared chalk
1J pound.
J
"
"
Powdered
orris
sugar of milk
cuttle-fish
J
"
\
2 ounces.
Extract of violet 14
210

\ drachm.
q. s.
Honey
Tincture of archil Odontine Paste.
Precipitated chalk
ounce.
(Cristiani's.)
1J pound.
"
Powdered
"
orris
i
.
cuttle-fish
castile
soap
2 ounces. " 2
1 drachm, " 2
Benzoic acid
Carmine lake
Oil of coriander " cloves
rose
Clarified
1
J.
"
....
. . . . .
1
2
q. s.
honey
Opiate Tooth Paste.
Prepared chalk
Powdered
"
orris
myrrh
rose leaves
.
Sulphate of morphia Brazil lake

Oil of cloves
1J pound " i 2 ounces. " 2 \ drachm.

1 ounce.
nutmegs rhodium
Honey
....
.
20 drops. 20 " 30 "

q. s.
Tooth pastes are a very pleasant mode of cleansing the teeth, and nearly as efficacious as powders. They are always put up in earthen, glass, or porcelain jars
or pots, and neatly labelled. They are used by rubbing the moistened tooth-brush over the surface of
the paste until sufficient adheres.
We will
now
give

some formulas
for teeth
211
and mouth washes, a form of
dentifrice particularly adapted to strengthening the gums and arresting decay, besides sweetening the
breath.
Eau
Tincture of cedar
"
Botot.
.
wood
.
.
| pint.
cinchona
rhatany Oil of spearmint
of 60.
"
"
.
i
.
myrrh
"
....
. . .
J 20 drops.
"
These tinctures should be made of
rectified spirits
Opal Dentiline.
Tincture of myrrh
"
.
.2 ounces.
Tolu,
rhatany each
and
.
.1
ounce.
Orange-flower water
-If pint.
gradually adding the water to the tincwith frequent agitation, so that when made it ture, presents a uniform milky appearance without precipitate.
Made by
Camphor Balsam for
the Teeth.
. .
Camphor
"
Tincture of myrrh
Rectified spirit Oil of spearmint
.
\ ounce. "
Peru balsam
.
"
1 pint. drops.
.10
an excellent and convenient wash for cleansing the teeth and scenting the breath.
This
is
212

Detergent Tooth Wash.
(Cristiani's.)
.
Tincture of pyrethra " rhatany

" " "
"
.4 ounces.
. .
.
myrrh
benzoin
vanilla
aquillabark
.
Extract of millefleur Tincture of cochineal

I have
4 4 4 4 8 2
1
" "
" " "
"
made
this dentifrice for the past twenty-five
years, and it has met the approval of all who have used it. Like all the rest of these tooth washes, a few drops are sprinkled on the wet tooth-brush and the teeth rubbed briskly, using water to rinse out the mouth. I would advise a metal sprinkler put into
the perforated cork for convenience in using the washes, and also one of larger orifice for the tooth powder, as being the latest improvement for this
class of goods.
Elixir Odontalgique.
Tincture of rhatany " cinchona.

" "
vanilla
.4 ounces.
.
"
"
cedar wood
.
8 2
2 2 2 2 2
"
"
"
myrrh
cloves
cinnamon
cochineal
" "
Extract of
rose, ISTo. 2
a preparation has had a great sale in England and on the continent. I give this formula as my idea of its component parts.
this
Under
name

Oriental Styptic.
213
Tincture of rhatany, myrrh, pyrethra, cloves, of each

.
.
4 ounces.
or bleeding
Particularly
recommended
for
soft
gums.
Pyreihene Tooth Wash.
Tincture of pyrethra
" " " "
.4 ounces.
.
myrrh cinnamon
coriander
cloves
saffron
4
2 2
"
" u " "
cochineal
2 2 2
1
"
"
"
Borax
Rose-water
Rectified spirits
.
. .
"
Dissolve the borax in the rose-water and add to the mixture, agitating frequently.
Opiate Tooth Wash.
Tincture of myrrh " rhatany

"
.4 ounces.
.
.
opium camphor
8 2
1
"
"
"
.1
.
Extract of milleneur
Very
useful for toothache and neuralgia.

Violet Tooth
Wash.
.
Tincture of orris
"
.8 ounces.
. .
myrrh
aquilla bark
4 8
"
"

Tincture of archil Extract of violet
" rose
.
.1
.
2 2
ounce. "
Oil of almonds
.10
drops.
This formula gives a wash leaving a pleasant taste in the mouth, and giving a perfume to the breath. The formulas given for compounding all these powders and washes are original, and can all be safely
recommended
for the
purposes intended.
Pastilles for cleaning the teeth have been somewhat in vogue, and I think might be still more used, as they possess some advantage over all other forms
not the least one is their cleanliness, ; as each lozenge is of the size to cleanse the teeth when dissolved in the mouth, and there is no waste
or soiling, as there
is
of dentifrices
likely to be with
unless
styles,
much
and
care be exercised.
powder or paste I have made several
will give a
few forms.
Any
person
may
readily modify them.
Dental Pastils.
Precipitated chalk
.
(Oistiani's.)
. .
Powdered
"
orris
1J pound. " J
\ "
sugar
cuttle-fish
bone
.
2 ounces.
1 drachm.
s. s.
Carmine
Aqua ammonia
Mucilage of Oil of ro.ê
.
q.
q.
gum
.
.
tragacanth
.
.20
.
cloves
coriander
"
nutmegs
10 10 10
drops, "
" "

These
pastils are
215
made by combining
the powders,
intimately rubbing the carmine in a large mortar with a few drops of aqua ammonia to bring out the color,
mixed powders, and with the mucilage of tragacanth (fresh), making into a stiff mass, rolling out into thin sheets, and cutting out the forms with a tin mould in any device desired. Each
and stirring
in the
lozenge should weigh about half a drachm.

Chlorine Pastils.
Powdered white sugar

Chlorate of potassa
Oil of cloves
. .
.3
.
1 pound. ounces.
Powdered gum tragacanth

.
. .
2
drops.
.20
.
Kose-water, triple q. s. The powders should be thoroughly mixed and sieved, and made into a mass with the rose-water, and into lozenges. Exceedingly useful as an anti.
scorbutic,
and
for sore
mouths and
foul breath.
Masticatories are those substances taken into the

as tobacco, opium, In view of this habit, common to so many people and countries, the perfumer has made use of this means to introduce substances that are
betal-nut, etc.
efficacious as remedies for
mouth and slowly chewed, such
bad teeth and breath, sore
mouth and
throat
and they can be so made as to be
a very useful article for a masticatory for sore mouth and soft gums, or bad breath. I make one in this
manner
Pellitory Masticatory Pastils.
(Cristiani's.)
mastic, powdered " Pellitory root,
Gum
.2 ounces.
.
2
1 " "
Balsam Tolu
Paraffine
wax
11
216
Melt the wax and the balsam together, and, while cooling, stir in the mixed powders, and before it is quite cold cut into dice about \ inch square.
Aromatic Opiate Masticatory Pastils.
Powdered gum mastic

orris
.
.
1 ounce. " 1
1 i
"
pellitory
.
"
"
"
opium
vanilla
.
"
wax Tincture of musk

Paraffine
.1 pound. .1 drachm.
.
"
ambergris
"
"
Carmine
1
is
blended with the powders and wax when perfume, and cut into squares each weighing 10 grains troy. Aromatic cachous for perfuming the breath are a
stirred into the melted
;
The carmine
very useful
article,
much
grance to the breath when destroy any unpleasant taste from whatever cause. I have for many years made a specialty of these articles, and can speak knowingly of their great usefulness.
used, and impart a fradissolved in the mouth, and
They
small
size,
and usually coated with
are generally spherical granules of silver-leaf, or
colored pink with carmine, made into a small lozenge, colored to suit the ingredient.
Cachou Aromatise.
(Cristiani's.)
.
Powdered catechu
"
.1 pound.
.
extract of liquorice liquorice root

.
"
" " "
"
gum Arabic
white sugar
6 2
8
217
in a
These powders being mixed, and with syrup made mass and into granules not weighing over half
:
a grain, perfume with the following
Oil of cloves " coriander

"
"
" "
" "
caraway peppermint nutmegs lemon

.
.
.1 .1 .1
.
1J ounce.
"
"
"
....
. .
" \ 1
\ | "
"
allspice
rose
Tincture of
musk
.1
"
When made
in this
they are coated with pure silver-leaf

:
globes are provided, screwing together at the centre. In one the pills are coated with some of the cachous, dissolved in
rose-water, and highly perfumed, and poured out upon trays to dry. This must be repeated until the
manner
Two wooden
surface
is
smooth.
When
glazed in this
way they
are put into the second globe, filling it about onethird full, and shaken with a portion of the glazing
to get them slightly wet, when the silver-leaf is put in with layers of cachous and well rolled around.
Sufficient silver
must be put
roughly coated. This describe than to perform, and it requires some practice to give dexterity in the manipulation.
in until they are thoprocess is more difficult to
Arome du Bouche.
"
(Mouth aromatic.)
.
.
11 pounds.
1
gum
tragacanth
Made
into a
mass with syrup and perfumed with
the cachou perfume, and colored with carmine and
218
formed into star-shaped lozenges not over a quarter of an inch in diameter. They are a very nice article for perfuming the breath, and can also be made with the
appropriate perfume into
Cachous du muse,
a la rose.
"
& Tamber.
a Pceillet.
a la violet, etc. a la canella.
of cardamom,
de
giroffle.
of rhatany, etc. etc.
Colored to suit the material used.
Cachous des Dames.
(Crist iani's ladies' cachous.)

.

Chlorate of potash
"
.
8| pounds.
\
Powdered gum Arabic

tragacanth
.
.
.
2
1
q. s.
"
Carmine
Flavored with
Oil of rose " coriander " cloves
...
.
.
4 drachms.
2
"
4
2
1
1
"
"
"
nutmegs
neroli
"
Tincture of
musk
ambergris
.2
.
These are made into very small diamond-shaped lozenges, and are exceedingly pleasant and useful
keeping the mouth healthy.
THE TEETH, THE GUMS, AXD THE BREATH.
219
somewhat out of the line of the perBut in Europe, the better class of druggists and apothecaries have a great many different kinds prepared, for which they find ready sale and they could be made a feature in all
are
LOZENGES
fumer in
this country.
in this country with but little trouble, for they are exceedingly useful. I will make
first-class
drug stores
a few suggestions. .The quantity of medicinal substance in each, every druggist should know.
Alum
lozenges, astringent.
Bark lozenges, tonic astringent. Rhatany lozenges, tonic astringent. Borax lozenges, healing and antacid.
Camphor
lozenges, anodyne.
Catechu lozenges, astringent.

Black-currant lozenges, pectoral.
Chalk lozenges, acidity and
diarrhoea.
Charcoal lozenges, heartburn, etc. Chlorate of potash lozenges, antiscorbutic. Lavender lozenges, stomachic. Magnesia lozenges, heartburn and dyspepsia.
Myrrh lozenges, astringent and
for the
gums.
Nitrate of potash lozenges, for scurvy, etc. Opium lozenges, toothache and anodyne. Pellitory lozenges, toothache and neuralgia.
Quinia lozenges, tonic and for foul gums. Soda lozenges, for acidity of mouth and stomach. Peppermint lozenges, for flatulency and nausea. Ginger, etc., lozenges, for flatulency and nausea.
suggest to the enterprising perfumer to give some study and attention to the class of inlet
Here
me
gredients that enter into
mouth and
teeth, for,
preparations for the while there are a great many

all
220
useful substances, there are also a number that should not be used, and require close attention lest he may
use something that would cause injury to these delicate organs.
CHAPTER XV.
essential oils are perhaps the most important used in perfumery, I think it necessary to devote a chapter to them, and endeavor to give the per-
As
articles
fumer an insight into their several qualities as well as advice in their selection, and tests for their quality and purity, for without this knowledge he may often
be imposed upon when purchasing of some one equally ignorant of their quality or unscrupulous or fraudulent enough to adulterate these valuable substances.
occurs in every part of odorous plants, whose aroma they diffuse by exhalation, but in different parts or organs of different species. In herbaceVolatile
oil
ous plants, such as thyme and lavender, it is distributed throughout all parts of them, but in others it may be only in the blossom, the seeds, the leaves, the
tube, or the root;
and it sometimes happens that different parts of the same plant produce different the orange, for instance, has three one in the oils flowers, one in the leaves, and another in the rind of
;
:
the fruit.
The quantity of
cies,
oil varies, not only with the spebut also in the same plant, with the soil, and
ESSENTIAL OILS
AND THEIR
TESTS.
221
it
especially with the climate, as in

is
warm
countries
generally the most profuse. In several plants the odor is contained in peculiar orders of vessels that contain it so closely that it does
not escape in the drying, nor
lost in keeping the and particularly in plant for many flowers, it is formed continuously on the surface, and
is it
years; in others,
flies off
almost or quite at the
moment
of
its
forma-
tion.
For
is
Volatile oils are usually obtained by distillation. this purpose the plant is put into a still water
;
and the heat applied, when the oil is volatilized by the aid of the watery vapor at the temperature of boiling water, and carried over with the steam, which is condensed in the worm, and as it cools the oil separates and rises to the top, or sinks to the bottom, and is received in an appropriate
poured upon
it
vessel.
employed are extracted from the dried plants, but a few, such as the rose and orange-flower, are obtained from the fresh or salted
the essential oils
flowers.
Most of
Some
oils of a less volatile
nature require
a higher heat than 212
Fahr. to raise them in vapor,
and
must be developed by adding common salt to the water, thereby raising the heat some 15 more, when they readily come over. When too much water is used, no oil will be obtained, as it may be partially soluble in water, and
it
thus produce only an aromatic water. If, on the other hand, too little water is used, the plant may adhere to the bottom of the still, get partially charred, and impart a burnt odor to the product. Thus the
best
mode of conducting
is
these distillations, in
my
it
opinion,
to
fill
a perforated cylinder, and suspend
222
in the
stills
ARTS.
The still, and let the steam pass through it. and cylinder should be made of strong tinned
copper.
Some plants yield so little oil by the ordinary process that the same water is re-distilled several times
with a fresh portion of the plants ; repeating until a certain quantity of the oil is obtained, which being taken off, the saturated water is kept for a future like
distillation.
Some
oils, like
aniseed and fennel that
become concrete at low temperatures, should not have the water of the refrigerator lower than 45 Fahr. These oils are condensed and received at the end of
worm, and collected in what is called a Florentine receiver (see fig. 8), which is a conical vessel standing
the
base, with a bent pipe rising out of the side close to the bottom, and curved a little above the
its
on
middle like the spout of a teapot. The oil and the water collected in this vessel soon separate according to their specific gravities ; if the water be the denser it occupies the bottom, and overflows from the spout, while the lighter oil is left in the receiver.
be the heavier, the receiver should be a large inverted cone with a stopcock at the apex to run off the heavier oil that has settled by repose. In
oil
Should the
some cases
for the
it is necessary to use ice in the condenser, water will thus part with more of the oil with
obtained by lemon, bergamot, and The pellicle of the ripe fruit is submitted to orange. pressure, and the oil comes out with the water of the peel, and is collected from the surface.
oils that are
which it is impregnated. There are some essential

the
oils
expression, as
of
The odors
or oils of odoriferous flowers are confined
so loosely that they speedily exhale, and, therefore,
ESSENTIAL OILS
AND THEIR
TESTS.
223
another process has to be resorted to for their extraction. I speak of such flowers as the jasmine, etc. These flowers are placed in contact with violet,
oil or
grease, and the operation is repeated with fresh flowers until they are sufficiently perfumed, when by
putting strong spirits with the oil or grease we extract its fragrance, the alcohol having a greater solvent
power
odor than the grease. This process of or enfleurage has been more particularly absorption described in another chapter, as also the process of
for the
maceration of other flowers as the rose and orangeflower, which is done by thus infusing with oil or grease at a moderate heat. The physical properties of essential oils differ very much from each other; some are colorless, others yellow, brown, or red, some are green, and a few blue. They have a more or less powerful and agreeable odor,
and when quite fresh are sometimes a little rank. Very few are as agreeable as their respective plants. They have a hot acrid taste, but generally agreeable when largely diluted with water or other substances. They have not the unctuous properties of fatty oils,
but generally make the skin feel rough. They are nearly all lighter than water, some few having more
The tension density, although called volatile oils. of their vapor, as well as its specific heat, is much Their boiling point differs less than that of water.
with the different kinds, but is generally about 320 Fahr. When distilled by themselves they are partially
decomposed, and the gaseous products decomposed always carry off a little of the oil. They distil readily with water, because the aqueous vapor formed on the surface of the boiling fluid carries along with
224
it
the vapor of the oil produced, in virtue of the tension which it possesses at the 212 Fahr.
oils burn with a shining which deposits a great deal of soot, and their flame, congealing point varies greatly some do not solidify until cooled to below 32 Fahr., while some are con-
In the open air volatile
crete at the ordinary temperature of the atmosphere. When exposed to the air they absorb oxygen, and
become darker
in color.
This absorption continues
until their fragrance also is changed from a pleasant to an offensive one. Light also contributes to this
effect;
the
oil
turns
gradually thicker, loses
its
pleasant smell, and is formed into a resin which, by continued exposure, becomes solid. Oil of lavender,
recently distilled, has been found to absorb in four winter months, fifty-two times its volume of oxygen,
and had disengaged twice its volume of carbonic acid gas and oil of aniseed in a year had absorbed seventyeight times its volume of oxygen gas, and exhaled thirteen times its volume of carbonic acid gas. When an oil has begun to experience such an oxidation, a resin is formed, and the oil can be separated by distilling with water. So it is to avoid these
;
changes that
essential
oil,
it is necessary to fill the bottle full of cork and seal or have close fitting glass
stoppers, and keep in a cool dark place. Volatile oils are little soluble in water, yet enough so to impart to it their smell and taste when agi-
tated with
it,
while the water distilled with
it is
gene-
Such waters are used in medicine and perfumery as distilled water, and are
rally a saturated solution.
exceedingly useful. They often contain other volatile substances of the plant from which they are distilled, and are apt to putrefy when close stopped in
ESSENTIAL OILS
bottles,
AND THEIR
TESTS.
air these
225
sub-
but
if left slightly
open to the
stances exhale, and they will remain sweet. Those waters that are made simply by agitation with the essence will not spoil by being so confined.
Essential oils are soluble in alcohol, and the more
Some that are devoid so the stronger the spirit is. of oxygen, as the oils of turpentine and citron, are but sparingly soluble in dilute alcohol, while others,
as lavender, etc., are considerably so. Thus we infer that they are more soluble in alcohol the more oxy-
gen they contain. In their combination with alcohol to form the odoriferous spirits, which are incorrectly
called waters, as eau de Cologne, etc., when water is added to them they turn milky, as the alcohol has a
greater affinity for the water, which combines and liberates the volatile oils.
"With the salifiable bases these oils do not combine, except oil of cloves and pimento. Some will partially combine with .caustic alkali, for, when oil of turpentine is triturated in a mortar with fused caustic soda, the oil being added slowly to the alkali, it forms a
sort of soap. They will generally absorb about six times their bulk of ammoniacal gas ; and lavender
absorbs 47 times
in
resins.
bulk of it. They will combine with all the fatty oils, gums, and any proportion
its
Commercial
ôme
essential oils are often adulterated, and knowledge of the tests for ascertaining these
adulterations
sins, or
may be
useful.
When
fatty oils, re-
balsams are present, they may be detected by putting a drop or two of the oil on white paper, and exposing it to heat. If pure, the essential oil will evaporate and leave no stain but, if any of these substances be present, there will be a transparent 15
;
226
stain

fat oil
alcohol, say 1 part to 3 of alcohol of specific gravity 0.840, when it will remain
upon the paper. If detected by mixing with
be present
it
can be
Resins can be easily detected by disOil tillation, when the resin will be left in the still. adulterated with alcohol will form a milky solution on the addition of water, the alcohol being absorbed
undissolved.
by the water, and the

surface
;
oil
afterwards forming on the
a graduated glass tube will show the quantity of adulteration. When essential oils are adulterated with cheaper
oils,
the difficulties of detection are
much
greater.
Then the smell and the taste are our principal guides. "We put a few drops of the suspected oil upon a piece
of paper or muslin, and smell In this way we may be able to
it
from time to time.

the difference of
tell
the smell from the beginning from that which exhales a method that is sure to detect such oils at the end
as turpentine or fixed oils
suspected oil is mixed gravity of 0.840, most of the turpentine will remain undissolved. If two oils be mixed, one of which is heavier and the other lighter than water, by adding
that fluid
and, again, when the with alcohol of the specific

;
when
in a vial they will separate the mixture is allowed to rest.
and agitating
necessary for the perfumer to be able to test the different essential oils which he uses, I will give some tests for nearly all such as are likely
it
As
may be
to be adulterated, or
Oil of almonds has
which he has occasion to use. many peculiarities by which its
test is sulphuric may be easily shown. a few drops of which on a watch-glass will acid; color it red, but cause but little decomposition,
purity
My
which would ensue
if
any adulteration were present.
227
Oil of aniseed, with the same test, congeals into a solid mass with increase of heat; if any other oil be
present, this latter oil will separate from the genuine
oil.
Oil of cloves, when dissolved in an alcoholic solution of caustic potash, congeals into a crystalline mass, losing its clove odor. If any other oil be present, it will separate.
Oil of cinnamon is not often adulterated, except with the cheaper Chinese oil (oil of cassia). When
sulphuric acid
added to the Ceylon oil, it forms a solid mass, changing to a deep black. With the Chinese oil the substance is softer, and of an oliveis
green color. Oil of bergamot

teration
oils
by its whose elements are the same. If alcohol be present, water will absorb and separate it. Alcohol is the usual article of its Oil of lavender. adulteration, and can be detected by water and the test-tube. Iodine causes a quick and violent fulmination with the pure fulminate.
oil.
generally protected from adulfine odor, except with the other citron
is
The
inferior oil will not
Oil of roses is principally adulterated with geranium oil or spermaceti. The first can be detected
by putting a few drops on a watch-crystal, with as many of sulphuric acid, and stirring with a glass
rod.
If pure
it
suffers
no change, but,
if there is
any geranium or other oil in it, the color will become dark and acquire a strong, disagreeable odor. Spermaceti can be detected by alcohol, which will not
dissolve
it.
Oil of sassafras can be considered pure
when
it
228

;
remains clear with iodine and sulphuric acid forms with it a green color not produced by any other oil. Oil of thyme. Iodine has but a slight reaction upon this oil, but if any other be present it is violent.
serve a good purpose, and would be necessary when the quantity was great and a strict examination would be justified ; but the extests
These
may
perienced perfumer, who has handled and used many fine oils, scarcely ever requires any other test than
his nose, his eyes,
and
his tongue.
oils
The quantity of essential

plants
is
yielded by the various here given, derived from the best authority.
Cake of bitter almonds, 100 pounds yield 7 ounces.
229
Rose
leaves,
Rhodium wood,
Santal wood,
Vitivert root,
Ylang Ylang
This table
flowers,
"Wintergreen leaves,
100 pounds yield 2 drachms. " 100 6 ounces. " 100 30 " " 100 10 " " 100 4 " " 100 25
be useful to get an idea of the what margin of profit would oil, result from distilling it should the opportunity offer. As the manufacture of most of these essential oils is
may
value of an
or to see
now
confined to Europe or other countries of the growth of the plants, it might be well to call the
attention of our countrymen to the culture of some of these plants ; for with our varied climate and soil
and with experience prove profitable. Besides which we have such a variety of indigenous plants, many of which are profuse in flowers and fragrance, that we might with but little trouble be able to obtain some new perfumes that would rank with those so generally esteemed, and which we now have to import from
it
would seem to be quite
feasible,
In Florida, for instance, we are constantly increasing the culture of the orange and other tropical fruits would it be more than a short
distant countries.
;
step to cultivate the plants for their flowers, and another to distil their oil, or, by maceration and absorption with grease or oil, give to commerce
another source of the supply of these useful articles ? California, whose climate is suited to so many
fruits
and flowers, has same climate as Italy.
in
some
Why
?
districts almost the cannot we then give
attention to the culture of flowering plants that may prove a source of pleasure, health, and wealth to
thousands of our people
230
I give these hints to a population constantly on the look-out for novelties and ever trying to invent something new, so that, when they have exhausted
all
other fields without the anticipated success, they may venture into this.
CHAPTER
DISTILLED
XYI.
WATERS AND ESSENCES.
all aromatic plants impart to waters disfrom them their peculiar fragrance, their volatile oil rising with the aqueous vapor, which is condensed with it in the receiver. Many of the plants
NEARLY
tilled
of the volatile principle that the first feeble in odor, it is, therefore, necesvery product to redistil the same water with a fresh portion sary
little
is
contain so
of the plant a second or a third time. In the distillation of leaves and flowers
rally preferred to
it is
gene-
though rose leaves can be preserved by mixing them with one-third their weight of common salt before they dry, as in drying they lose a great portion of their fragrance. In fact
fresh,
have them
this mode of preservation is preferred by many, as the water distilled from the leaves so preserved is free
from a certain rankness, that the product from the recent leaves always retains, but which is in a great measure lost when the water is kept. Many vegetable substances, on the other hand, yield their fragrance much better when dried, and in some,
indeed,
it
is
not developed until they are perfectly
DISTILLED WATERS
dry,
AND
ESSENCES.
231
if
and are then only
fit
for distillation,
and
the
oil is
The
required, yield much more and of better qualijty. stills or alembics are too well known to need a
description here (we have given several cuts of them elsewhere), except to notice that late improvements
made in having a perforated cylinder or wire basket suspended in the still to hold the substance to be distilled in such a manner as to cause the steam to
are
and carry over with it the aromatic principle, as otherwise, when put immediately into the still, it sinks to the bottom, and adhering becomes charred, and imparts an empyreumatic odor to the product, which it retains a great length of time. A still better mode is to have a steam pipe or coil inserted in the still, and reaching nearly to the bottom, and causing a flow of steam to pass gently through the water and substance, and in that manner avoid all
pass through
it
danger of scorching. It is necessary to observe that the greatest care must be taken to have the still, the head, and the worm or receiver perfectly clean, and free from all foreign odor, to clean it perfectly before and after use, that the article distilled may not be contaminated with any other odor; and to observe not to have too
large a quantity of the material for the capacity of the still, as the water may overflow into the receiver.
the substance be hard and dry, to have it previously bruised or ground and macerated in the
Also
if
water,
all is
some hours previous

fire
to the operation.
"When
should be brisk, so that the water may quickly be brought to a state of ebullition, and so remain until the end of the process, and to
ready, the
reject the first waters that come over, and to leave sufficient in the still to avoid contaminating the
232

last.
whole with the burnt odor of the
For
if car-
ried too far the product is apt to get slimy or to adhere to the sides of the alembic and be exposed to
decomposition.
difficult to
But
as careful as
you may
be, it is
from plants free from all empyreumatic odor, though by exposing them to the air for a few hours they are generally freed from it. "When these distilled waters are bottled and closely
distillations
have
stopped, they are apt to
become
full
of ropy rancid
matter, which decomposing produces acidity ; there are many remedies proposed to prevent this con-
tamination, such as the addition of spirit before or after distillations, but I have preferred to distil
the water a second time to free
from such substances, and have found such waters to keep for
it
years.
Should any volatile
oil
come over and form on the
surface of the water, it can be removed with the It is also recommended that these waters pipette.
cans completely full and perfectly stopped to exclude the air, and kept in a cool, dark place and that copper, lead, and zinc should not come in contact with them, as they oxidize those
be
filled into bottles or
metals and the waters become unfit for use.
waters of rose and orange-flower imported from France and Italy are very superior to any we can make, as they are made on the spot where the flowers grow, and the last is distilled for
distilled
The
the extraction of the essential
oil,
while the rose
is
principally for the water alone, for the otto of rose is

India, they having for a long time devoted much space and time to its manufacture. These distilled waters are imported
in tinned
made almost exclusively
in
Turkey and
copper cans, or in bottles inclosed in wicker,
DISTILLED WATERS
AND
ESSENCES.
233
and are called double or triple according to the number of times they have been distilled with the flowers, for, as I have remarked, it is necessary to redistil the water with fresh flowers that it may be saturated with the perfume. In distilling for the oil of neroli, the water from which the oil has been taken is called
usually requires that number of The flower, though distillations to set the oil free.
triple,
because
it
somewhat strong in odor, does not and besides, a large portion of the
yield
oil
is
it
readily,
soluble in
oil
the water, so that after these operations the

to separate. The rose-water, though it that number of distillations, seldom has
it,
begins
receive
may
any oil upon I so much of the aroma does the water absorb.
use these waters extensively in my manufactures, as they contain two of the most important odors used
by the perfumer.
Distilled waters for medicinal purposes, that used in former times to be recommended by the different
pharmacopoeias, are now made by means of the essenIn fact the United tial oils of the plants needed. States Pharmacopoeia discards almost altogether the
process of distillation, and directs the essential oil to be triturated with carbonate of magnesia and
filtered.
But the perfumer
will find
it difficult
to
obtain a water of sufficient strength for his purpose by this process, and besides in the two most important ones for him, the rose and the orange-flower, the
perfume from them is quite different and inferior to the distilled water made as already mentioned. There are but few distilled waters needed by the perfumer at the present day, though there might be
some that he might especially need for some original compound or bouquet of his own invention that
234

;
might please the fancy of his customers hence I give these instructions as a guide. If he had the facilities
for procuring the flowers of roses or of elder it might be sensible and profitable to distil, for of the former
nearly every druggist wants a supply, and if he has any judgment he will not use the water made from
the
he can get a good distilled one. eau de Cologne and lavender water, and in fact nearly all the aromatic toilet waters and vinegars I have given in my chapter on
oil if
The
distillations of
that subject, would be exceedingly useful, and would produce a better product. Yet there are many odors
that distillation does not improve, such as the jasmine, tuberose, violet, etc and, therefore, for the ex,
tracts
and bouquets the heat requisite
for distillation
injures them. I, therefore, use the strongest alcohol as a solvent for the proper material, and when the formula is compounded, I add of the rose or
orange-flower water sufficient to bring the extract to a proper strength.
Yet when the
toilet
water admits of
distillation,
the process tends to make a better blending of the aroma that is much more pleasant than by other
means.
Yet again where

or cooking, the
still
the extract
may be
for flavoring
could be used to great advan-
tage in extracting with spirit the flavor of the plant, in a much more pleasant form than the mere admixture of the
oil
with the
spirit.
I shall speak further

still in
of this
when I come to extracts for flavoring. The druggist has frequent recourse to the
preparations in which alcohol is the solvent, yet has to be used in the form of a weaker spirit, or of a syrup, when he distils it to recover the alcohol,
many
235
which would otherwise be lost, and which can again be used in manufacturing some other article. There are some substances rich in oil that the perfumer might distil with profit, such as cloves and
other spices, provided he had
ratus, but this
have, cheap, distilled them in a steam alembic, driving steam through the spices, and with a large yield of the essential oil ; in fact I obtained nearly every atom of the essence by this
must be left when such spices were
the necessary appaI to his own judgment.

all
means.
The
reader
is
referred for illustrations of the dif-
ferent apparatuses for conducting distillation to Figs.

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,
and
11.
CHAPTER
XVII.

IT has long been thought that chemistry in its constant researches would finally discover and make
odors necessary for the perfumer; but thus far few substances have been discovered, with all the experiments of chemists, that can properly bear the name of perfumes. It is true that we can make from oil of amber a substance having somewhat the odor of musk, and from the oil of
artificially all the
gaultheria an oil somewhat like the rose in smell, yet none of these organic chemical substances come near to the original article for practical purposes, if we may except the artificial oil of bitter almonds,
the
oil
of mirbane or nitro-benzole
but
it
is
so
236

genuine
oil
inferior to the
that
it is
only used in the
cheapest soaps.
Yet from organic substances
pared many of fruits in a remarkable degree, and are used for
there have been preethers that have the smell and the taste
making nearly
all
constant use for in such minute quantities as to be harmless. "While as yet there are but few of these substances that can be properly called perfumes, it would be hazardous to declare that such discoveries are impossible and cannot be, as of all sciences chemistry is the most progressive, and hundreds of able minds
are constantly discovering
and are flavoring candies and syrups, and

flavors of the fruits
;
in
new methods and new

some principle
in the
substances, or, by experiment, old not before thought of.

It is well
known
that fruit essences are ethers
from organic substances, as we have the apple oil and several liquor flavors made from the disagreeable
of grain, fusel oil, the pineapple oil from putrid cheese, the quince essence from the oil of rue ; in
oil
fact, all these peculiar flavors are the result of chemical experiments on organic matters, to give details of the exact manufacture of which would require too
much
space, for, unless the reader were a chemist, he could not understand or practise these chemical pro-
cesses.
But
if
subject fully, I
would
he should wish to investigate the refer him to some good author
on organic chemistry.
Heretofore these fruit essences have been made best in Germany, from whence we still get them,
and I have always found them the most reliable, and usually of such uniform strength that the formulas I give will
be graded to their employment in
237
preference to those made in this country, many of which I have found carelessly made or else very
dilute.
Extract of Almonds.
Purified
oil
of bitter almonds
.
.
Alcohol, 80
Oil of bitter almonds
.1 pint.
J ounce.
redistilled is apt to have a portion of prussic acid in it, and it is necessary to use an oil known to be free from it. The
artificial oil
when not
known
it
as oil of mirbane is sometimes
recommended, but
the true
oil.
has not the pleasant flavor of
Extract of Apricot.
(The same as almonds.)
Extract of Apple.
Apple essence
Citric acid
(full
strength)
Alcohol, 72
...
.
1 ounce. "
\ 1 pint.
Extract of Banana.
Banana essence
Citric acid
1 ounce.
I
2
Alcohol, 70
...
.
1 pint.
Extract of Blackberry.
Apple
oil
oil
ounce.
Quince
Tincture of orris
Tartaric acid
Alcohol, 70
...
"
i 1 pint.
238

Extract of Celery. Celery seed Acetic acid
.
.
Alcohol, 70
.... ....
.
. .
. .
2 ounces.
" \ 1 pint.
Extract of Cinnamon.
Oil of Ceylon
cinnamon
.
Alcohol, 75
.1 pint.
\ ounce.
Caramel
Extract of Cherry.
. .
20 drops.
1 drachm.
Apple
oil
.
| ounce.
Citric acid
Alcohol, 70
....
.
"
1 pint.
Extract of Cloves.
Oil of cloves (fresh)
. .
Alcohol, 80 Caramel
.1 ounce. .1 pint.
.10
drops.
Extract of Cocoa.
Take half a pound of chocolate, dissolve in a pint of boiling water, set it aside to cool; remove the cocoa butter, add 2 ounces of glycerine, and bottle
;
to flavor ice-cream, etc.
Extract of
Coffee.
Take half a pound of the best fresh-roasted coffee, pour upon it 1 pint of cold water, let it macerate at a gentle heat for J hour, bring to a boil, when take from the fire let it cool gently for two hours, when
;
strain
and add 2 ounces of glycerine

etc.
to flavor ice-
cream,

Extract of Ginger.
239
Take four ounces of unbleached Jamaica ginger, bruise and add 8 ounces of strong alcohol, put in a displacer, and pour on by degrees 10 ounces of diluted alcohol
;
properly made, you will have a pint
of very strong extract.
Extract of Jargonelle Pear.
Pear essence
Citric acid
.1
.
ounce.
Alcohol, 80
.1 pint. .1
.
Extract of Lemon.
Oil of lemon (new) . Tincture of lemon-peel
.
ounce.
1 pint.
Grate the outer rind from a dozen fresh lemons and put with a pint of alcohol, 95, and you have
tincture of lemon-peel.
Extract of Nutmegs.
Oil of u
nutmegs mace concrete

oil
Alcohol, 95
Triturate the concrete
the alcohol, and add the
.1 .1 pint.
J ounce.
in a marble mortar with
oil
of nutmegs and
filter.
Extract of Orange.
fresh Yalentia oranges and grate the outer rind from them, and put into 18 ounces of
Take a dozen
95, and
alcohol,
filter after
macerating for 10 days.
The orange
oil is
so seldom
new and good
that
it
is
not reliable for flavoring.
240

Extract of Orange Flowers.
Oil of neroli petale Acetic ether .
.
.
2 drachms.
i
Alcohol, 85
1 pint.
oil is
This will not be good unless the

if so, it is a delightful flavor; a
very fresh;
tablespoonful will
flavor two quarts of pudding.
Extract of Peacli.
Oil of almonds
. .
2 drachms. 2 2
1 pint. "
Pineapple
oil
Tartaric acid
Alcohol, 80
...
Extract of Pineapple.
Pineapple essence
Citric acid
Alcohol, 80
...
1 ounce. " \ 1 pint.
Extract of Plums.
Apple
oil
2 2
1 drachm, "
Tartaric acid
Alcohol, 80
Extract of Hose.
1 pint.
Otto of roses Alcohol, 95

Liq. carmine
...
triple
.
1 drachm,
14 ounces.
2
"
French rose-water,
10 drops.

Extract of Raspberry.
241
Raspberry essence
.6 drachms.
.
Tincture of orris Extract of rose, No. 1 (from

. .
Bounce.
\ J
pomade)
Citric acid
Alcohol, 85
Liq. carmine
.
.1 pint.
.30 drops.
Extract of Strawberry.
Pineapple oil Tincture of orris

Tartaric acid
.1 ounce.
.
Alcohol, 80
.1 pint.
Extract of Vanilla.
and cut it up mortar with an ounce of loaf sugar; fine; put take four ounces of rose-water and twelve of alcohol, mix and add a portion to the vanilla and sugar 95 and put in a displacer, and pour on the balance of the diluted alcohol till all is through if not dark add a few drops of caramel. These extracts for flavoring are used for ice-cream, jellies, puddings, cakes, candies, and syrups, and with a few exceptions are as good as the natural fruit a tablespoonful or half an ounce is sufficient for two quarts of cream or syrup. As I have previously remarked, distillation might be advantageously employed in making some of these
vanilla bean \ an ounce
in a
;
Take of
useful extracts, particularly the spice flavors.
The
product would
stronger and more intimately blended, consequently more pleasant. 16
be
242
CHAPTER
XVIII.
TOILET SOAPS. IMPLEMENTS
AND INGREDIENTS.
TOILET soap
for
is
comparatively a modern product,

century
it
even in the
last
was
little
known
until
the latter half, and then of such a quality and in such quantities that it is scarce worthy of notice, while
soap may be said to have been known from the middle ages, though previous to that time it
common
seems to have been but
little
known.
Yet
in the ex-
cavations of the ruins of Pompeii a soap boiling factory or room was disclosed with some of the soap
still
preserved.
in
it
The Bible
but I think
earth
known
to
two instances uses the word soap, modern translation for the alkaline Arabia and Egypt, and which the
Egyptians with their usual luxury perfumed for use

in their baths.
Marseilles, in France, has been from its first settle-
ment by the Phoceans the great centre of the soapmaking art, being naturally so situated as to have the alkali from the barilla and sea-weed, and in close proximity to the home of the olive tree, or at least where it was most cultivated for its oil. It still reretains the
name
of
making the
best soap in the
world, as they have always tried to maintain superiority
and integrity
Paris
fifty
in its manufacture.
Of
superior
toilet soaps,
more than
may be called the centre, and for years has excelled in the art, though
scientific
England now manufactures them upon true
TOILET SOAPS.
243
principles, yet for the finest quality we still go to Paris. Germany makes a great deal of fancy soap,
but by the use of an excess of cocoa-nut
oil
its
quality is inferior. Toilet soaps form a very important item in the list of articles now made by the perfumer, and being chemical compounds have kept pace, if not excelled
all
article
the other branches of his art, for upon no other can be founded a better reputation then by
this useful
producing a superior class of
and
too
indis-
pensable article of goods, nor can he give care and attention.

Heretofore
it
it
much
has been the custom for the perfumer
made by the large manufacturers, and re-melt and manipulate them to his wants, and under certain circumstances this might be the best plan, but by making his soap by what is called the
to purchase soaps
cold process, he has the advantage of making it in small or large quantities to suit his business. He does not then require the large amount of space, nor the
expensive machinery necessary to conduct the business where soap is made in large quantities by boiling, though that process I think the only proper and correct one; and the only one that produces a perfect
combination of the materials. Soap is manufactured on an extensive scale, forming an important article of commerce in all civilized countries, and is a compound resulting from the combination of oils and greases, both vegetable and animal, with the salifiable bases of potassa and soda. Soaps made with soda are hard, those made with potash are soft, the degree of hardness depending upon
that of the fats with which they are made ; thus the hardest is made of stearine and soda, and the softest

with
cal
oils
and potash
the
first is
use, while the latter is well as many other things that the soap has to consider.
too hard for practitoo soft, and it is this as
maker of
toilet
Oils and fats chiefly consist of oleine and stearine, as in tallow, suet, and several vegetable oils of marga;
rine, that occurs in
many
other animal and vegetable
greases and oils; of palmitine, found in palm oil and other substances; there are still other principles,
according to the nature of the material used by the soap-maker. The fats and oils are seldom composed
of any one of those principles, but of several in varying proportions, oleine being constantly found in all of them.
Chemically considered, fats and oils are really salts, and may be called "glyceryles," oleine being the oleate of the oxide of glyceryle, and stearine the stearate of the oxide of glyceryle
etc. etc.
;
that
is
to say, they are
combinations of acids, oleine, stearine, margarine,
Glycerine is a combination of oxide of glyceryle with water, which in that case acts the part of an acid to form a hydrate of oxide of glyceryle. So
mixed with solutions of caustic alkali, their constituents react upon each other, and combine and form a gelatinous mass, which is nothing more nor less than an aqueous solution of soap mixed with glycerine, which is set free by the process.
neutral fats are
when
My space will not permit me to give a thorough chemical description of every article used in making
soap, nor of every change that takes place in the process, yet while giving practical instruction in the
art it will be almost impossible to
do so without
using some chemical terms.
TOILET SOAPS.
245
The manufacturer of
for his use;
toilet soaps at the present
time can have nearly all his material prepared ready he can buy his lard, tallow, and oils in quantity and quality suited to his needs, and so with his alkalies, they being prepared by the chemist in a
concentrated state, ready for his use. So that unless he wants to manufacture upon a large scale he has little occasion to understand all the procaustic and
Yet it is cesses of the preparation of his material. well for him to know how and what methods are used
to
make them suitable for his use. The use of steam in the manufacture
of toilet
soaps is at this time almost indispensable, for without he has very much more labor, and his product is not so uniform in quality as he should desire, nor can he hope to compete with others who have that adit
vantageous aid. The laboratory for making soaps should be divided into two rooms, one where the soap is made, containing the lye tanks and kettles or steam jacket, engine and boiler, etc.; another where it can be placed on racks to dry, and be milled, plaited, moulded, etc., and where he has room to use all modern appliances, for without them he will find it
next to impossible to make
toilet
soap of good quality
The that will yield him a good profit for his labor. at the end of this chapter illustrate most of the cuts
implements and machinery needed. Having his laboratory supplied with all the requisite machinery and in working order, he will proceed
to get a supply of the materials, viz., alkalies, tallow, lard, veal fat, olive oil, cocoa-nut oil, palm oil, cotton-
seed
oil,
tallow
oil,
perfumes, colors,
etc. etc.
Should he decide to make his own alkalies (for his facilities may be such that he may economize by it),
246
he
PERFUMERY
A!NT>
KIXDRED ARTS.
will need to have an iron vat, square or cylindrical, of the capacity of about 150 gallons, or sufficient to dissolve a drum of caustic soda of about 500 pounds,
which is broken up into as small lumps as possible, and put in the vat with about 75 gallons of water, when steam is let on through a pipe reaching to within a few inches of the bottom, and the contents frequently stirred, and when in the course of a few hours the alkali is melted, put in 50 pounds of fresh-burnt lime in as small pieces as possible, and by degrees. Continue the steam some time longer, while the lime is dissolving and being thoroughly incorporated, when turn off the steam, cover the tank, and allow it to rest a day or more to let the lime precipitate to the bottom.
the lye has become clear proceed to test the strength of the solution, which is done by a Baume hydrometer (see Fig. 13). If you want it for cold soap
will have to evaporate it by steam or fire in another vessel, to 36 Baume ; while for boiled soap you Potash require weaker lyes of various strengths.
When
you
lye is prepared in very much the same manner, but as the manufacturer will not be likely to want it in the same quantities that he does the soda, a small
pan can be used, say 50 gallons capacity, suffitwo hundred pounds of the alkali, which is treated in the same manner, a little more lime being needed, as commercial potash, or still As it is better, pearl-ash has more carbonic acid.
iron
cient for one or
impossible to procure alkalies in a state of purity, it will be necessary to study some of the elements of alkalimetry, and have suitable instruments for test-
ing the amount of
caustic lye
his salts contain.

alkali of a well-
Though generally if he procures his known brand or maker, the quality is
likely to be uni-
TOILET SOAPS.
247
form, and with the hydrometer and thermometer he can arrive at a sufficient knowledge of its strength and purity by simple tests and calculations.
Having his alkalies provided, and deciding make his soaps by boiling, it will be necessary
to
to
have a large kettle set in masonry, with furnace underneath, or a steam jacket, which is a double kettle with space between for the steam to circulate
(see Fig. 17). are generally
Frames to put the finished soap into made of wood, in sections placed one
;
upon the other, and fastened with an iron clamp, the whole forming a sort of oblong square well when the soap sets or becomes hard, a section is lifted off and cut off with fine brass wire, which section is
again
cut transversely in bars or wedges.
(See
illustrations of tools for
soap, pp. 253 et seq.) The different oils and greases used seem to require almost as man^ different modes of working, as tallow
making
make a certain kind of soap and olive oil another, the process may be considered the same slightly yet modified to suit the several conditions, and in this
will
lies
the art of
making soaps
properly, for, as I have
already remarked, soap is a chemical compound, and the more scientifically it is prepared the better should
be the product.
writers on toilet soaps seem to have had more theory than practice in their ar.t, for they tell you to make a soap of tallow and soda, called curd soap, or
The
a soap from lard, etc. etc.
white when new, losing its age, and becoming so hard as to be almost insoluble o o in water. Many of you have no doubt found in travelling, a small waxy mass on the washstands of
/
tallow or curd soap is white color as it acquires

;
the hotels, that was so hard and stubborn that the
248

5
utmost coaxing could not raise a lather and it was no doubt economical, as it lasted a long time, each
traveller in turn doing his best to make it of service. This was curd or tallow soap, and a soap made en-
though not so hard, yet has very little lathering property. It seems singular that there is no one oil or grease used in soap that makes as good a soap as when modified with some other substance having a slightly different property, and is not very
tirely of lard,
much improved
thereby.
So with the soaps made of olive oil, the celebrated castile soaps, they are found to acquire great hard-
when made of the pure oil, and, therefore, they have at least ten per cent, of rape-seed oil comnow bined with them to qualify that tendency. The rapeness
being a drying oil, makes a softer soap, like drying oils, and tends to keep the castile soap of a more plastic consistence. In some ^districts where
seed
oil,
all
barilla is used, the soap is plastic without the addition of rape-seed oil, which is due to having a por-
tion of potash in it, which has the desired property of making a softer and more soluble soap.
Cocoa-nut oil makes a peculiar soap, very much esteemed in Europe, though the effect of saponifying it is to produce a very unpleasant rancid smell, which does not leave it in spite of all perfumes added to cover it. This soap has the property of holding in suspension a large quantity of water, 60 or 70 per it also has cent., and which causes a copious lather the property of washing with sea-water, which gains it the name of marine soap. This oil enters into all the German recipes for toilet soap, but does not im;
prove their quality, though it gives them a semitransparent, waxy appearance, very pleasing to the
TOILET SOAPS.
249
The French also use it, but sparingly, in many eye. of their soaps, but chiefly for its emollient property,
very advantageous, particularly in shaving soap. Cocoa-nut oil, though perfectly pure and sweet when used, acquires this disagreeable odor upon
is
which
saponification
when not
by the formation of caprylic acid, which in great quantity can be partially disguised
by strong perfumes.
Resin or rosin, so largely used in soaps, will not by itself form a soap, through its insolubility in alkali,
but requires the addition of greases, or rather, as it is the least in quantity, it may be said to be added
is
to the fats, or, correctly speaking, to the soap, for it generally put in with the last lye, after the soap
has been well boiled and nearly complete, and then put in but a small proportion to the amount of fats used
a quarter or at most a third of the amount. Rosin is not much used for soaps for the toilet ; in fact, it is difficult to introduce it into soaps made by the cold
process, as
it
many
of these soaps are

it
made
is
required, as
sometimes
is, it is
and when combined by

;
means of the mill, by using a part of boiled soap and other soaps made cold. Palm oil is one of the most useful fats for
rosin
toilet
soap, its constituents being oleine and palmitine ; its natural pleasant smell is an advantage, as it resembles the smell of violets
;
it
has a great deal of yel-
low coloring matter, which is sometimes available, though it has to be in a great measure destroyed This bleaching is before or during saponification. done in several ways, either by exposure to the air or by means of chemicals in the first method, the melted oil has pipes inserted into it and air blown through it. "Whatever unpleasant odors arise are carried into
;
250
the chimney above the pan by means of a funnel inverted over the pan. Of the chemical processes for
bleaching, several methods are employed, though I think that the use of chromate of potash is the simplest.
To each 100 pounds
of the
oil
half a
pound
of chromate of potash, dissolved in a quart of warm water, is stirred into the melted oil for an hour, using a crutch or paddle filled with holes for the better
means of rapid mixing, when the oil is allowed to rest; and the coloring matter is deposited, or at least sufficient of it to render the soap made of it a natural fawn color, and avoid the disagreeable yellow color; this when in excess is very objectionable to
the soap.
Lard, as I have said, makes a very beautiful soap, oil, the constituents being identical, though derived from such different sources. Castor
similar to olive
oil
also
makes a
fine
soap; as also does benne
oil
and ground-nut oil is also a very good soap material, though by itself it is almost too soft for general use. Cotton-seed oil, now used for a great many purposes, has few equals as an article for soap. great deal of this oil is now made in the Southern and "Western
States, useful.
it
and,
when properly refined, is exceedingly Combined with lard, tallow, palm oil, etc.,
fine basis
forms a
for toilet soaps,
and has the
great advantage of economy, as the price is usually much lower than any other material. Veal fat is
exceedingly useful to the perfumer; the toilet soap made of it has great whiteness and fine emollient
Mutton fat, being rich in stearine, is a properties. useful addition to many soaps, supplying a hardness
often needed in other materials, though by itself
and
TOILET SOAPS.
with soda
age.
it
251
becomes too hard, and turns yellow with
From my
oils
or
experience, it seems that there are few greases that will by themselves give as
good a soap as when other oils or greases are combined with them to alter or improve their qualities. There are other fats and oils that can be used in
though often difficult to procure, as hemp-seed oil, poppy oil, mustard oil, sunflower-seed oil, rapeseed oil, butter of cocoa, etc. etc., all of which could be used with advantage, provided they could be purchased at a price that would make an economical soap, or that by experiment would yield a soap of
soap,
superior quality. Besides the alkalies and oils and greases the toiletsoap maker requires a number of other chemicals, drugs, etc., such as sulphuric, nitric, and muriatic
acids, sulphate of iron,
chromate of potash, oxide of
manganese, sulphate
common
;
soda, chloride of soda or salt, etc., besides a supply of materials for
of
coloring for red he requires vermilion, cudbear, and some kinds of aniline red ; for yellow, anatto, gamboge, and aniline; for blue, ultramarine and indigo;
brown, umber, cutch, sienna, caramel, etc. The other shades can all be made by an admixture of these, as green is yellow and blue, purple is red and But generally the least coloring matblue, etc. etc. ter in a soap the better your customers will like it, though to please the eye, and to assimilate the soap to its name, a certain portion of color seems necessary, but people of intelligence avoid all soaps known to contain color, for they imagine that color is added
1
and
for
to cover
some sophistication. Therefore, let the maker of good toilet soaps endeavor to get the purest
252

and observe much neatness and cleanliness
materials,
be, as
in the details, so that his products
may
be
known
to
they appear, perfectly pure. the perfumes required for scenting soaps, it is needless to speak here, as they have nearly all been
Of
described, being the same as are used in the other branches of the perfumery business, though many
can be used in soaps that are almost useless for other This will be seen when I give the differpurposes.
ent formulas, though I might here remark that nearly all the spice and herb oils can be used as soap per-
fumes, while the citron oils are not so economical, the alkali somewhat impairing their fragrance. The
French manufacturer makes the finest soaps from the flo\ver pomades, that they may have the delicate odor
of the flowers, but of course such soaps have to be made by the cold process, as the greater heat of boil-
ing would destroy all their delicate odors; they also resort to the use of the mucilage of gum tragacanth
impart emolliency and solubility to their soap, is a great benefit to fine soaps for toilet purposes. Gum tragacanth is a very useful article in many trades, and is often used by the perto
which addition
fumer in several preparations. For soap, a few ounces are soaked overnight in water or perfumed water, stirred until dissolved, strained and added to the soap before finishing, or combined with the soap and colors in milling.
hardly necessary to speak of the many substances that are used and can be used in the adulterIt
is
ation of soap, for it is not well for the toilet soapmaker to employ such sophistication in his soaps, for he must endeavor to make the best article possible, and try to excel all others in quality and style,
TOILET SOAPS.
253
and avoid all adulterations that would injure his products and his reputation. On the contrary, let him take such pride in his art as to emulate the highest in it, and not by the use of adulterations destroy the character of this product, and bring all perfumed soaps into disrepute, but let him persevere in the good qualities of his manufactures, and he will eventually
profit by it. I will here illustrate the
most important implements and machinery needed in the art of making

lead pipe, and
for
toilet soap.
The siphon should be of half-inch may be made after Coffee's pattern,

volumes of
moderate
liquid, as it possesses many advantages over the usual forms in delivering the liquid without any inconvenience to the operator. It is shown by
Fig. 14.
Fig. 13.
Bailing's
hydrometer
alkalies.
for
Siphon
for lye, etc.
Fig. 14, and consists of a bent tube, one leg of which is longer than the other, and a smaller lateral tube B,
254:
large, hollow India rubber ball A. The long leg has also a stopcock near its lower end. It is put in operation by closing the cock, compress-
capped with a
ing the bag, and quickly immersing the short leg in the clear lye, to within an inch or less of the subsident carbonate of lime, as represented in the drawing-
The
act of compressing the ball produces diminution of the elastic force of the internal air by expelling
the most of
it,
so that as soon as the
hand
is
removed
ball, the outward pressure of the air drives the liquid up to the highest point of the bend, whence it drops" by the force of gravitation, on the opening
from the
of the cock, and flows out in a continuous stream, as long as the mouth of the short leg is covered by it. Large tuns lined with sheet lead, and with cul-
lendered false bottoms, Fig. 15, are perhaps the best

Fig. 15.
Vat
for lye.
and most durable fixture of this kind that could be put up. In this case there is a cock fitted near the bottom of each tun, and through it the clear lye collecting in the lower part of the vat, between the
TOILET SOAPS.
255
off into
diaphragm and the bottom, can be drawn
tubs below, for use as may be wanted. Close by these vats there must be a pump or hydrant, with its outlet spout conveniently arranged for a supply of
water, in quantity as required. Fig. 16 shows a kettle. Should there be several, they are placed on a line with each other, and over
Fie. 16.
Soap kettle with
fire
hole.
a furnace beneath.
To
the caldron a tube of about
two inches diameter
is
adapted, which serves as
an outlet for the waste lye which remains under the boiled paste. At the mouth of the furnace is an
arcade; and at the bottom of this vault iron bars are placed as supports for the fuel which is to heat
the caldron.
is
The arrangement of
the
of the bricklayer.
generally, however, left to the skill These soap pans or caldrons are
masonry work and ingenuity
cast with a flange at their top, so that, when necessary, an adjunct cylinder of wood, in the shape of a
cone,
the interior of the cast-iron kettle, is the outer cast-iron surrounded by brickwork. caldron, which should fit to the inner kettle tightly,
may
be fastened to them.
is
(Fig. 17)
so as to prevent
any escape of steam.
D D is the tube
256
leading from the steam boiler, and conveying the steam to the kettles. It is fitted with a cock, which is opened or shut, according as the steam is to be let
Fig. 17.
..I.
1
T~M
TIT
i
..
'
>^r5"
t
.
TTVto.
i
i
I
Steam
kettle or jacket.
on or
vapor
off,
for accelerating or retarding the boiling of
the soap.
is
the tube by which the condensed discharged. The cock in this tube can be
is
CC
left slightly
open so as to operate as a safety-valve,
when one of these necessary appendages is not affixed to the apparatus. The tube E is the discharge-pipe
of the caldron.
In this countiy, frames are made of pine wood, for The iron frames need light-colored and fine soaps. not exceed half an inch in thickness; but those of
wood should be made of two-inch stuff. The shape is that of a parallelogram, as shown by the drawings
;
and the dimensions of the opposite sides and ends are respectively 36 and 12 to 15 inches. They should be about 36 inches deep, and smoothly
jointed, so that when they are placed on top of each other in piles of three, four, or five (Fig. 18), they
TOILET SOAPS.
257
may form
paste without leaking.
a water-tight well, which will hold the hot The iron are of the same
Fig. 18.
form as the wooden frames
hut
differ in size.
The
sides are of wrought-iron plate, and the remaining portions of cast iron. Fig. 18 presents a side view,
Fig. 20 the bottom, and Fig. 19 a top view of them;

Fig. 19.
Fijr. 20.
on the ends, and which holds them together, is shown by a. They are drawn to a scale of three-eighths of an inch to a foot. Being mounted on wheels, these frames can The good readily be moved from place to place.
fits
and the clamp, which
17
258
PERFUMERY AXD KIXDRED ARTS.
conducting power of the metal promotes the cooling and solidifying of the soap paste. The wooden frames are lifted off, one at a time,
Fig. 21.
and the soap remains upon the movable bottom ready to be divided into bars, as shown by Fig. 21. Fig. shows the well of five frames, ready for receiv22, 1, ing the soap paste. The bottom of the well and a
single frame are severally presented in Fig. 22, 3
and
2.
Fig. 22.
Frames
for soap.
frames, like those of this country, are also constructed so that they may easily be separated into pieces, being set up by nuts and screws, as shown
in Figs. 23
The German
and
24.
Their floor
is
also
movable
and
TOILET SOAPS.
Fig. 23. Fig. 24.
259
is
shown
breadth by Fig. 26.
in longitudinal section by Fig. 25, and in It consists of two layers of deal
boards, in the upper of which are four grooves, fitThe two ting with the projections in the sides.
Fig. 25.
Fig. 26.
narrow sides are also supported on the inside by All the sides are strengthened by cross-pieces. "When the several parts are put together, supports. the bolts, screw cut at the other end, have only to
be inserted through the projecting parts of the longer sides, and made fast by the nuts at the ends, to form the whole into a solid box. cloth spread over the bottom prevents any soap from passing the holes,
Fig. 27.
frame with its through which the lye drains off. and ends down is shown by Fig. 27. By the sides
260
side of

it is
parts in position
the clamp used for holding the diiferent when the frame is set up.
Minor Implements.
The minor implements of the
soap laboratory are, a crutch, Fig. 28, composed of a long wooden handle adjusted, at the end, to a board,
Fig. 28.
Soap crutch.
and used
for stirring the soap paste in the operation
of "mottling ;" large, cullendered, iron ladles, with long, wooden handles (Fig. 29), for dipping out the
Fig. 29. Fig. 30.
Ladles and Imcket.
hot paste from the kettles, and copper buckets (Fig. 30) for conveying it to the frames. Every manufactory of soaps should also be supplied
with presses, for compressing the tablets of soap.
One
suitable for toilet soaps is shown by Fig. 34, which It has two spiral clearly exhibits its construction. and B, by which the cake of soap is imsprings,
mediately expelled from the box
as soon as
it
is
The workman knocks it off with the tablet pressed. that is to take its place ; and so the pressing goes on
TOILET SOAPS.
without any delay
fast as finished.
in
261
removing the tablets of soap as is a rope suspending a wooden rod,

Fig. 32.
Fig. 31.
Soap
press.
262
E, which serves as a support to the bottom of the die during the pressure. The box C is movable, being merely fastened by screws ; and, when necessary, may be replaced by others of different sizes. This is
a great convenience, for the size and form of the tablets may be varied by merely changing the box. The die from which the tablet is to receive a device, or the impress of the manufacturer's name, is screwed to the top of the box C, and may also be changed, as
fashion, caprice, or taste shall dictate.
Fig. 35.
Soap press with
spring.
Screw Press.
"When the soaps pressed
in the first
are entirely dried, they are slightly scraped at the surface and dipped into alcohol; they receive their definitive shape by means of a second mould
mould
which
is
placed under a screw press.
TOILET SOAPS.
Figure 36 represents
this press.
Fig. 36.
263
Screw press
for toilet soaps.
A A.
B C
posts supporting the press. B. Strong oak board used to receive the press. C. Frame of the press.
at the
Oak
D. Iron screw provided
end with a groove
to receive the upper shell of the mould. E. Fly. It is surmounted with a ball at each
end.
F F. Cast-iron matrix used to receive the copper mould. G. Copper mould formed of two pieces. H. Rods of wrought iron adapted by means of screws to a horizontal bar below E E these rods pass under the cast-iron matrix F F, and raise the movable rod L, after each pressure; then this raises the mould G, fixed in the cast-iron matrix. In this way, after the pressure has been given by the screw, the
soap can be taken from the mould and another substituted.
2G4
other accessories which complete the establishment of a toilet soap factory are the drying-room:
1.
The
2.
3.
weigh the bars of soap. Another scale to weigh small quantities. Several large wooden boxes lined with lead, to mix the shavings of soap with the colors and
scale to
the
4.
oils.
Several tables covered with marble for balling the soap.
5.
Several marble mortars to grind and pound the

soap. Several fine
sieves to pass the colors to be incorporated into the soap.
for
6.
drum
7.
Boards
8.
drying the soap. Scrapers and knives: the former for cleansing the surface of the bars of soap, the latter for
dividing the soap into small cakes. Slatwork frames, made of wooden uprights and
cross-pieces, as
shown by Fig.
Fig. 37.
37.
The openings
be-
Soap
rack.
permit the free access of the thus promote the drying.

slats
tween the
air,
and
TOILET SOAPS.
265
Figure 38 shows a kettle for cold soaps. Figure 39 represents a kettle or jacket with a double bottom, heated by steam. This kettle is of
Fig-
38.
Fig. 39.
Kettles for soaps by the cold process.
tinned copper, and
may
be used also to purify tallow

Fig. 40.
and greases.
Kettle for floating soaps.
AA
B
is
(Fig. 40) is a cucurbit. a tinned copper water-bath.
266

is
a beater or stirrer, to which a

is
movement of
rotation
given.
for
The capacity of the water-bath
twenty pounds
of soap must be twenty-five gallons. The soap is put into the water-bath B, with the necessary quanis tity of water, and when it is melted, the beater in motion. For the operation to succeed well, put
the temperature of the mixture
must be between
158 and 176.

Fig. 41.
Still
and water-bath
for
transparent soaps.
(Fig. 41). brick furnace.

B.
bit
AA
Cucurbit of copper fixed on a
Water-bath which exactly fits into the cucurthe solution of the soap is operated in the vase. ; C. Cover of the water-bath. It has two apertures,
D, E.
closed by a large cock, the other gives passage to the stirrer X, F. F. Stirrer.
first
is
The
g.
Worm
of copper or
tin,
destined to condense
the alcoholic vapors.
TOILET SOAPS.
h.
267
Copper pipe, serving to make the connection between the alembic and the worm.
Fig. 42.
Moulds
for transparent
soap
balls.
Copper dippers, with handles of two

Fig. 43.
Fig. 43.
feet length,
Figure 44 represents the cutting or stripping machine.

Fig. 44.
Soap cutter or
stripper.
(Fig. 44). Cutter. Iron shaft which traverses the centre of the cutter and carries a handle C, at one of its ends this
B.
handle
used to give motion to the machine. D. Frame of wood or cast iron, on which the
is
shaft of the cutter rests.
2G8
E. Inclined plane of wood, on which the soap is placed to be cut into shavings F, is the cake of soap. G. Large wooden box to receive the shavings of
;
soap.
The method of using this machine is very simple. The cake of soap to be cut being laid on the inclined plane E, and touching the cutter at one end, a movement of rotation is given to the machine by the
handle C. During the rotation, each time the blades of the cutter touch the cake of soap, they take off a shaving which falls into the box. The first cake being cut, substitute a second, and so on. This machine renders immense service in the
manufacture of toilet soaps. man with it can duce 200 pounds of soap to shavings in one hour.
Fipr. 45.
re-
Soap
mill.
It consoap-mill is represented in Fig. 45. of three cylinders of porphyry, from five to six inches in diameter, by twelve or fourteen inches in length. They are separated from each other; the distance between them is regulated by screws, at will.
sists
The
by a system of gearing, the dimensions of which, produce also an uneunequal
They
are set in motion
TOILET SOAPS.
269
qual rotation for each cylinder. "We give the indication of the principal pieces which compose it.
A A.
Frame
of cast iron which supports the cylin-
ders.
Cylinders to grind the shavings. fixed on the axis of the first cylinder used to put the machine in motion.
C.
B B B.
Crank
D. Scraper.
It is
formed of a large
steel blade,
fixed horizontally against the last cylinder, which it traverses in all its length. The use of this blade is to scrape off the soap adhering to the cylinder.
E. Large wooden box lined with lead. This box receives the soap which has been crushed between
the cylinders. F. Movable hopper of wood lined with zinc. Its object is to receive the shavings of soap and trans-
mit them to the cylinders.
CHAPTER
XIX.
TOILET SOAPS. MANIPULATION.

exact causes of the saponification of oils and greases with alkalies are yet obscure; and, no mat-
THE
what may be the experience of the operator, he will find at all times something to learn that will either improve his goods or facilitate his methods. Thus we hear people say that no soap can be properly
ter
made without
"While I admit that boiling is as yet the best known means of making a proper chemical combination of the ingredients, I am not
boiling.
prepared to say there
may
not be discovered other
270

that, if the
means to produce a better article, so maker of toilet soap is progressive and
attentive, he
may discover such improved process that fit himself and those who may follow him.
To know how
to
may
bene-
a good soap is very necessary, and, as boiled soap is the best, we must try and give the proper mode of making it. Being assured
make
by proper
tests of the purity
and causticity of
his
alkalies, let
him have ready lyes of the different strengths required some to mark 10, 15, 21, and
27
Baume
or an average of about
21; and
to
make
a good white soap for stock, take
Tallow or veal
Lard, refined Cotton-seed oil
fat
.
.30 pounds.
.
45
"
.25
"
In
all
100 pounds.
Let them be put into a kettle of about 40 gallons' capacity, heated by furnace or by steam. The heat is applied, and, when the fats are melted, about 50 pounds of soda lye
in,
at 12
Baume
are poured gently
when 20 pounds of
with constant stirring and boiling for some hours, lye at 18 are added, and, after
boiling about an hour, it is allowed to rest, the steam turned off or the fire withdrawn this is called the
;
parting operation or empatage, and requires constant stirring to form into a perfect homogeneous mass, and forms a perfect mixture having no grease at the top or alkali at the bottom.
After some hours'
rest,
you proceed
to the second
operation or separation, which is done

alkalies,
by means of
having pure common salt in solution, and 20 to 25 Baume, and the object is to sepamarking rate the soap formed from its excess of water you
TOILET SOAPS.
271
turn on the heat gently and pour in gradually 25 pounds of the salted lye. Keep stirring until the
soap separates in grains or curds, when, after this separation appears complete, turn off the heat and allow it to rest for some 6 hours, when remove the
lye from the bottom,
causticity, but
it
which lye may not have much

be useful to use again for the
lye to
may
same operation by adding a little caustic mark the requisite strength.
make
third operation or coction is conducted by pouring into the soap about 30 pounds of caustic lye at 25, and bringing to a boil, constantly stirring to
The
keep down the scum that will form, and will appear After less as the soap boils and is near completion. some three or four hours turn off the heat, boiling and in two or three hours draw off the lye.
liquidation or cleansing is the fourth operation, and is done by pouring into the melted soap
The
30 or 40 pounds of lye marking 6, and boiling gently for a few hours until the soap is dissolved into a paste of a grayish shade and is neutral ;" when the fire is withdrawn, and the soap stirred briskly for some time and allowed to rest until the next day, when the lye is drawn off and the scum removed, and ladled into the frames, being careful not to stir up the darker soap that forms at the bottom, which with the scum soap can be used for another operation, or for soaps that have color, as the palm,
rosin, etc.
When
up
in the frames
it
or allowed to cool in its
can be colored, perfumed, natural white state, and cut

for stock to
mill, or
and kept soaps by means of the

into bars
make various
by remelting with
272
other kinds of soap to form the different varieties

desired.
To make
good palm soap,

oil
I take
Palm
(purified
oil
and bleached)
. .
Tallow oil Cocoa-nut

100 pounds
in
all.
60 pounds. " 20
"
.20
process, called parting, with about 15 gallons of caustic lye at 12 or 15, keeping it stirred, but not boiled too violently, as it might
Begin with the
first
cause the cocoa-nut oil to separate, which, if it did occur, can be combined again by adding a gallon or two of cold, weak lye. Boil for three or four hours, adding by degrees stronger lyes of about 20. Keep stirring until towards the end of the boiling, add 2
when remove the heat and stir briskly until thoroughly mixed, when let it rest. After resting some hours, proceed to the second process of separation, which is rendered somewhat
gallons of lye at 25,
more
'difficult in all
we now pour in little by little and when by boiling we see
soaps containing cocoa-nut oil ; salted lye of about 25, the soap forming into
grains and floating in the lye the heat is turned off and the stirring is stopped, and, after letting it rest to separate, the lye is drawn off.
operation, or coction, add about 8 of lye at 27, and when it begins to boil a gallons great deal of froth will form, which must be beaten down, and it will disappear as the boiling continues
;
For the third
and when after some hours' boiling the soaps begin to form into a curdled mass, a portion taken out forms, when pressed between the fingers, a hard scale the heat and stirring are stopped and the soap
;
TOILET SOAPS.
273
allowed to rest, when it will form upon the top, and the lye can be withdrawn from the bottom.
In finishing, or what some call fitting, the soap in the kettle is then diluted with about 10 gallons of
when, after a thorough mixing, if it should separate, weak lye at 2 is added, and it again becomes pasty, and the darker soap at the bottom begins to rise to the surface, when it
lye at
stirred
;
weak
5, and boiled and
maybe considered finished. "When the heat is removed

covered up and allowed to rest five hours; is then removed and the soap is ladled into frames, taking care not to take the dark soap from the bottom. This operation should yield about 160 pounds of soap of a handsome yellow color, which can be employed as a body for many colored toilet
the pan
is
the
scum
soaps.
Another useful soap
as an ingredient or
body
for
is
cheaper, yet very good, toilet soaps of 2d quality,
Palm Soap
Palm
oil
.
with
.
Jftosin.
.
Cocoa-nut Tallow oil Eosin
oil
.30 pounds^ .20

35
"
.15
by gentle heat, pouring slowly in 8 gallons of caustic lye of 12, stirring and gently boiling for three hours, when add 5 gallons of stronger
oils
Melt the
17, and boil three hours longer, or until it bea perfect pasty mass, when put in 3 gallons of lye at 21, stirring well and removing the heat, when let the paste rest.
lye of
come
To separate with the salted lye at 25, pour in while stirring another 6 gallons until it forms into
18
274:

and the lye separates, when
let it
grains,
rest
five
hours and draw off the lye. In the third operation lye of 25, amounting to about 6 gallons, and the rosin previously melted and
strained, are
now poured
in,
keeping down the froth by
occasional beating, stirring
when the scum

;
disappears,
and after boiling about six hours the grains look hard, and crumble between the fingers draw the heat and let it rest, and after some time draw off the lye. This soap will still have to be finished by a fourth operation, which is divided in two: 1st, add 6 or 7 gallons of lye at 7, stirring and boiling for five or six hours, and if it has any tendency to grain add a gallon or two of cold water to give it consistency. Yet it is necessary that the soap should separate, which can be seen by the lye running off separately on the 2d, as the stirrer, when stop the heat and cover up. soap will still be too caustic, it can be neutralized by adding (after drawing
off the lye of the first opera-
tion) 3 gallons of solution of sal soda, marking 5, and boiling and stirring to a smooth, syrupy fluid, until the soap from the bottom appears to rise somewhat discolored, when turn off the heat, having added
a portion of water to supply the evaporation. After a day's rest the scum is taken off, and the soap dipped into frames, when the gray soap at the bottom is mixed with the scum, and can be kept for the next operation, or boiled together with weak lyes for an
inferior soap.
Cocoa-nut Oil Soap.
have remarked that this soap has peculiar properties, and that of washing in sea-water is a great advantage, and gives it the name of marine soap.
I
TOILET SOAPS.
275
prepare this soap a little potash lye added to the soda lye is an advantage, for when about 12 per
To
mixed with the soda, it not only makes the soap more plastic, but improves
cent, of the potash lye is
purposes. This potash can be added to the soda before it is made caustic, or (which
its qualities for all
the better plan) they can be separately prepared and mixed before beginning the operation of saponiThis potash lye is so useful that, even if fication.
is
the toilet soap-maker did not make soft toilet soaps, he would find it essential in imparting an emolliency to his best soaps by their greater solubility. To saponify 100 pounds of cocoa-nut oil, take 90 pounds of soda lye at 30, and 10 pounds of potash lye at 30, and mix, and after the oil has been well purified, let it be melted, raising the heat gradually
while adding the alkali, and bringing to a boil. The soap, which at first appears to granulate, gradually
becomes syrupy and perfectly united.

during the process, the soap separates into grains, a few pints of water added while stirring will
If,
generally correct it and supply evaporation ; when the paste is perfectly homogeneous and transparent, it may be considered finished, and when the heat has
it can be put into the frames. This soap, being of a brilliant whiteness, and of a translucent, waxy aspect, takes the colors very nicely. To color red take vermilion or orange mineral in the
somewhat subsided
proportion of a drachm to the pound, mixing in a small mortar with a portion of the soap, and stirring in the
frame.
It can also be mottled or
marbled with the
different colors, red, yellow, and blue, and by a little practice very handsome effects are produced.
The
aniline colors can be used for this soap to
276
great advantage, but they are added cold by the milling process, when the perfumes are added, and they
make very
attractive colors.
This process of milling, which will be more fully described in another chapter, permits of the mixing of the different kinds of soaps, and, as cocoa-nut oil soap is not much favored in our country, and yet has some in combination with the others, they can advantages be combined in all proportions to make an endless
variety of kinds and colors, and of various perfumes suitable to their names. This addition of cocoa-nut
has the advantage of giving great emolliency and a profuse lather to all the other soaps, and should when well perfumed make them acceptable to almost every
oil
one.
CHAPTER XX.
though rarely so perfect in boiling, yet, properly and carefully made, give good satisfaction, and in some respects they have an advantage, especially when soaps are wanted to have the fine fragrance of the flowers, the delicate odors of which would be dequality as those
SOAPS of
this class,
made by
stroyed by boiling. Though these odors could be added to the boiled soap by milling, it would have to be in the form of extract or alcoholate, which would be in many ways objectionable, causing the cakes to shrink and warp in the process of drying.
Again, a great many objections have been made to these soaps becoming very hard and insoluble, and as
277
soon losing their perfume, and being caustic and irritating to the skin, leaving an unpleasant roughness after using. Nearly all these objections can be
overcome, for when they exist it is because of the carelessness or ignorance of the manufacturer; for if he knows his business properly he can by this process make a soap that has none of these faults.
The proper
tic
soda
lye for most of these soaps is the causlye, with about ten per cent, of potash lye
of the same strength and causticity. Making soaps by this process would be more economical than boiling, if the lyes did not require as much fuel and
them as is experienced in the of the soap, yet, as I have said, these lyes can boiling be purchased of the manufacturing chemist already prepared, and of the strength of 36, the strength
trouble to concentrate
usually employed and prepared especially for this purpose. But, if the manufacturer has not the convenience of procuring them, or the cost of trans-
porting is too great, he will have to make them for himself by concentrating the soda lye prepared as directed in my last chapter, and the potash lye in the same manner as heretofore described; and, as he will
require to make soft soaps as well as hard, it would be well to prepare stocks of each of these alkalies of the requisite strength, and keep them on hand ready
they must mark 36 ture of 60 Fahr. These soaps have borne the
for his use
;
Baume
name
at a
tempera-
of "little pan" soaps, because they can be manufactured in small pans with as much facility as large ones, or in fact more conveniently, for one person can manage a kettle
with from 100 to 300 pounds with ease. Figure 38 represents a portable kettle, the heat for which
278
is
communicated by a small charcoal furnace, which
can be withdrawn at any moment to regulate the heat. In a kettle of this description, holding about 50 gallons, a person can easily make 200 to 300 pounds of soap in two or three hours, so that if his materials be
ready to his hands, he can easily turn out 1000 pounds of soap in a working day.
said in speaking of boiled soaps, the toilet-soapmaker, who wishes to make soaps in variety and of
As
good quality, will provide himself with a stock of each of the kinds requisite for a good white soap, palm soap, half palm soap, cocoa-nut oil soap, etc. so that by a judicious combination he can make all the different kinds needed.
;
To make
a fine white soap suitable for
most of his
in
colored soaps by the cold process, about the following proportions

:
mix the greases

.
Lard, purified
.30 pounds.
.
Veal fat, purified Cocoa-nut oil

Cotton-seed
oil
.
40
"
."
.10 .20
"
100 pounds in
all.
Having seen that all are of good quality and clean, melt them together, and bring them to a heat of about 112 F. and, if convenient, warm the alkali, consisting of 45 pounds of caustic soda and 5 pounds of caustic potash, both at 36 Baume, to about 90 F., and place in such a manner as to cause it to run slowly into the melted grease, while a person is con;
stantly stirring, stopping occasionally to see that the heat does not get above the point named or the lye does not run too fast, as either event would cause the
contents to separate.
Continue the
stirring,
after
TOILET SOAPS BY THE COLD PKOCESS.

all
279
the lye
two
too thick to work, and the substances are completely united, when turn into
is in, until it is
a frame, which had better be lined with a soft, clean cotton cloth, large enough to bring over the top of the frame and cover the soap. The perfume can be
put in before the soap hardens in the pan; and, for almond soap, should be
Oil of bitter almonds Oil of lemon
....
..
12 ounces. " 4
In a few hours after the soap is in the frame, a singular spontaneous reaction takes place with these soaps their particles seem to react and cause the
;
temperature to rise to about 180 F. But this phenomenon does not impair their quality, but, on the contrary, is a means of a more intimate combination
of the particles, and the soap is thereby improved. In a day or two, according to the quantity and size of the frame, the soap can be cut up and platted and racked, and in a week it is ready to be pressed. This soap should be of a beautiful clear white, and
but slightly caustic, and give a fine lather. If made into almond soap, each cake should be wrapped in foil. But it would be well to have a stock of this white soap
in bars to use for
making soaps of
etc.
;
:
other colors and

also a yellow
perfumes, such as rose soap,

soap,
and
made
as follows
Yellow Soap.
Palm
oil
(best)
.40 pounds.
30
" "
"
.Tallow
oil
.
.
Cocoa-nut oil Cotton-seed oil
.10 .20
100
280
Manipulate as for the white soap, with 50 pounds of the mixed lyes at 36 5 or 6 pounds of it being and color with about an ounce of anatto potash lye This soap, if caredissolved in a pint of weak lye.
of good material, will be of a clear orangeyellow color, and can be used for the marsh-mallow and other yellow soaps, or in combination with the
fully
made
white or cocoa-nut oil soaps, to make a variety. For a soap of second quality, notably the honey and glycerine, the manufacturer can make a soap that may be called half-palm soap with rosin, which latter
more trouble in its manipulation by the cold process. For, as I have remarked, rosin is not saponifiable with alkali, and is, in fact,
material will cause a
little
for
an adulteration, though of a nature to improve it some purposes, causing a more copious lather, and
making the soap that contains it more soluble. For a half-palm soap with rosin, take
Tallow or suet
Palm
Rosin
oil
40 pounds. " 30
. .
Cotton-seed
oil
.20
10
"
"
100 pounds in
all.
Soda
lye,
36, 50 pounds.
lye to dissolve with
Take out about 6 pounds of the
the rosin separately, which is not to be added until the soap by its thickness and evenness shows it is nearly complete ; when if on adding the rosin it thickens too soon, a little warm water is added, say about a quart at a time, to facilitate complete combination.
This soap,
if
properly made,
is
of a pale yellow or
fawn
color, of a plastic consistence, which it will retain for a long time, and is exceedingly useful to
281
use in conjunction with the other soaps. I have given various styles, colors, and perfumes under as many different names.
soap, I have, in my last chapter, given the proper formula with suitable instructions, remarking that, if made like the hoiled soaps
oil
Of the
cocoa-nut
given, it would be apt to retain too much of the salt of separation ; so I advise a sort of modified cold process, where the lye is somewhat weaker, admitting
sufficient water to allow a slight boiling to form a better combination of its parts. This soap should also be kept in stock with the others given, and will
be sufficient for all practical purposes; and, by the aid of remelting or with the mill, nearly all kinds can be made.
CHAPTER
XXI.
OIL.
CASTILE SOAP FROM COTTON-SEED
IN our Southern
States,
where cotton
is
grown
in
the greatest quantity and of the best quality in the world, the seed has long been known to have an
abundance of
difficult
oil,
the extraction of which was very

fibre.
on account of the adhering
From
this
cause the seed was allowed to rot, and was used for manure. When, however, machinery was invented for hulling the seed, the oil could be extracted with The large amount of hull and adhering fibre facility. these seeds possess will be understood when it is known that it sometimes takes five bushels of seed The hull and to make one bushel ready for the mill.
282
fibre are

used for paper stock, and
the}?'
are,
of course, very
valuable.
were able to remove the hull and make the oil, another difficulty arose in the large amount of objectionable color the crude oil contained, and which was due to dark resinous spots contained in the seed the color, however, has been overcome, for it is now refined by means of chemicals, caustic lye, etc., and bleached with sulphuric acid, and pressed to remove a large amount of stearine it contains, and which, with the oils, is used for a great many purposes, this latter being sometimes sold and bottled as salad oil from its sweet nutty taste when fresh and
|
;
When
pure.
Cotton-seed
oil,
when
almond oil, bright yellowish oil, it has some of the of a drying oil, though properties but taking a very long time to dry. This drying
property does not seem to deter the maker of cheap
well refined, very similar to
is
bland,
perfumery from bottling large quantities for common hair oil, or from buying it for that purpose under the name of salad oil, often not knowing from what source
it is
obtained.
the soap-maker
it
possesses very valuable properties, for nothing has yet been discovered that is so good and economical a substitute for olive oil and when a portion of lard and bleached palm oil is mixed
;
To
with
or Castile soap, it is difficult to distinguish the imitation from the O genuine O The importance of this oil in the manufacture soap.
it,
for
making Marseilles
of soap is, to me, so great that I deem it necessary to devote some space to its description, and particularly as few soap-makers have as yet availed themselves of
its benefits,
and to try and give them some hints
for
CASTILE SOAP PROM COTTON-SEED OIL.

its
283
manufacture into a soap that may be called castile soap, from its close resemblance. In saponifying cotton-seed oil, there is no peculiar difficulty more than in making a good castile soap from olive oil, though the soap is made somewhat sooner if the stearine is left in it, which stearine is generally pressed out to permit the oleine to remain fluid in our c6ldest weather. To make a white castile soap, take
Cotton-seed
oil
. . .
.80 pounds.
.
Lard, good quality Olive oil
10 10
"
"
And prepare the lye by close calculation in this manner: 50 pounds to mark 15 Baume, 50 pounds at 21, and 50 pounds at 27, making 150 pounds for
lye to be made of the English caustic soda, and rendered clear and caustic with one-fourth of lime.
this quantity of grease.
The
To the melted grease in the kettle pour the first 50 pounds of lye at 15, keeping it stirred as the heat is raised to boiling, and as it froths beating it down
quickly to prevent
four hours,
lye at
when
overflowing; boil for three or add by degrees the 50 pounds of

its
21, and
boil for five or six
hours longer, keep-
ing up the stirring, and, when it becomes a perfectly smooth mass, turn off the heat and let it rest for the
lye to separate. After some hours' rest the spent lye is drawn off, the heat is raised, and the last 50 pounds of lye at 27 are poured in, and allowed to boil briskly
for four or five hours,
and appear flakey
when the soap ought to grain when pressed between the fingers
;
when again turn

separate,
off the heat off after
and draw
and allow the lye to some hours' rest.
284
In finishing or fitting a lye of carbonate of potash of 6 or 8, say 25 pounds are stirred in with a gentle heat until the soap presents a perfectly homogeneous
syrupy mass, when it can be left to divide the scum to the top and the gray soap to the bottom, with the fine soap between, which is dipped into the frames, and the scum and dark soap kept to make the mottled soap. The result should be about
150 pounds of the best soap having a fine white appearance, and 30 to 40 pounds of inferior soaps that can be mixed with the mottled castile soap. To make a mottled castile soap, take of
Cotton-seed
oil
.
.80 pounds.
.
Lard, good Palm oil, bleached
10 10
" "
the odor, causing a greater resemblance to the Marseilles soap, and is cheaper than the olive oil. Sulphuretted soda lyes
are preferred
The bleached palm improves
by the French soap-makers
for their
soft lye
mottled soap; but, as

or artificial lyes,
we are using the English
have to adopt a modified process. The sulphuretted crude soda forms the colored mottling, the sulphur combines with the iron of the kettle and other impurities, and forms the oxide giving the blue color, which turns red on all those parts
will
we
exposed to the
a'r
To make
white soap.
this soap, proceed very
much
as for the
To
the melted grease pour on the 50
pounds of the weaker lye at 15, gently raising the heat while they are mixing, which should be done
by gently stirring, and keeping down the froth by beating, and regulating the heat to prevent too rapid

boiling.
285
After three or four hours, pour in the 50 pounds of lye at 21, and continue the stirring, and
as the froth subsides bring to a
tion,
more rapid
ebulli-
granulates shut oif the heat and let it rest for four or five hours. Now draw off the and proceed to the enlargage or coction, by putlyes
it
and when
ting into the melted soap the third 50 pounds of lye

at
27, which
stirring.
added while constantly beating and Stir in also about 5 pounds of common salt,
is
and continue the boiling
for six or eight hours, as
may
be required, or until the grains separate', as can be seen by taking out a portion with a knife or pressing
between the
fingers, when a little experience will show a flakey scale free from the lye ; let the heat be stopped and the soap allowed to settle until next day, when after drawing off the salted lye it can be finished.
The soap
is
finished with
weak
sal-soda
lye,, or,
if
the soap is neutral, with water having a little salt in solution, for if it needs water the grains will appear
hard and dry, when the so:ip will have to be boiled The soap is again until it forms a smooth mass. allowed to rest, and the next day again thoroughly
ready for the This is done by putting into a small mottling. watering-pot with a rose-spout about 4 ounces of sulphate of iron, dissolved in a pint of warm water, and pouring it from the rose on the top of the soap in the frame, while the crutch is plunged up and
stirred
it is
and put
in the frame,
when
down
Of to give the streaky marbled appearance. course this requires some practice, as it should present a uniformity throughout the entire mass, but is
little experience.If this soap is carefully made, it will be as good as most of the mottled castile soaps we import, and
not difficult to accomplish with a
286
should be made so economically as to yield a good profit while being sold at a less price than the imported
article.
I devote some space to the description of the manufacture of these soaps from the cotton-seed oil, believ-
ing that the cheapness and other advantages of the raw material will induce soap-makers to give it the
consideration it seems to deserve for making a good and cheap soap, and that they may see a source of While it is not supposed profit in its manufacture. that the perfumer or toilet soap-maker can give much time to this class of soaps, I yet deem the subject of sufficient importance to endeavor to draw the attention thereto of those engaged in the manufacture of soaps
alone.
CHAPTER
XXII.
COMPOUNDING TOILET SOAPS.
BY
toilet
compounding soaps I mean the making of soaps of different names, colors, and perfumes
from the different kinds of soap, boiled or cold, for making which I have given the many details. Thus we suppose the maker of toilet soap has in stock white soap, palm soap, yellow or half palm and cocoanut oil soap, and with them he can proceed to make have shown how the almond any kind needed. soap is made from the white cold soap by perfuming in the pan with the oil of bitter almonds or oil of mirbane.
We
287
palm soap with rosin, by putting in the pan just before turning into the frame 8 ounces of citronella oil and 2 ounces of lemon-grass oil to each 100 pounds. Glycerine soap can be perfumed in the same way for each 100 pounds take
Honey
soap can be
made
also of the half
Oil of cassia "
caraway
lavender
" "
mirbane
.....1 ... .....1 ...
2 ounces.
Let both of these soaps be a bright yellow, the
last
of a somewhat darker shade to distinguish it. Marsh-mallow soap can be made by an admixture
of the palm and the half palm soap, and perfumed to each 100 pounds
Oil of lavender
.
.
6 ounces,
lemon grass peppermint

"
petit-grain
.4
.
\ \
good rose soap take equal parts of the white and cocoa-nut oil soap, and color 100 pounds with 12 ounces of French vermilion, and perfume
a
To make
with
Oil of rose geranium " rose
.
.
.4 ounces.
1
cinnamon
bergamot.
...
. .
.1
2
White Windsor Soap.
To 50 pounds
oil
each of the white soap and cocoa-nut soap, mix in the mill this perfume
288

Oil of lavender
. .
ARTS.
.4 ounces.
.
rosemary
"
4
2
"
"
"
thyme
cloves
1
1
"
"
caraway
Brown Windsor
:
Soap.
This popular soap, when properly prepared, is made Take of boiled palm soap in the following manner and half-palm soap each 50 pounds ; put in the
stripper,
and make into thin shavings, and spread

to dry
;
upon sheets of strong paper
when
dry, melt
in a marine bath with a small portion of an aromatic water, and when it is again hard enough proceed to
mill it as before, drying it again and and adding caramel to color and after the remelting third operation add the following perfume to the 100 pounds
cut
it
up and
Oil of bergamot "
.4 ounces.
.
.
caraway
cassia
2 2 8 1
"
"
" "
" "
lavender
cloves
"
petit-grain
.1
Mould or cut into small square cakes, and wrap them in a neat paper wrapper. Brown Windsor soap owes its fine emollient properties to the amount of labor employed in its manufacture, for it is almost needless to say that the more soap is worked and handled, and melted and remelted,
becomes. This soap is, in large estaboften made of the scraps of all other lishments, kinds of soaps that accumulate from moulding and
the better
it

manipulating, but
it
289
is
better to color
and mould
them from good
soap, for the toilet
soap-maker should
endeavor to keep up the standard excellence of the well-known old Brown Windsor Soap. To the good taste and good judgment, and to the
enterprise of the toilet soap manufacturer, I must leave the formulas for the numerous soaps to be
found in all the markets with his stock and colors and perfumes he cannot have any trouble in making
;
any or
all
of them.
I will now give the formulas for making some of the superfine soaps by the cold process, for about 75 pounds of soap.
Benzoin Soap.
Cocoa-nut oil Cotton-seed oil
(Savon au Benzoin.)
.
.
Hard body with benzoin

.
.
.9
.1
.25
30 pounds.
.10
Yellow wax
Mixed
caustic lye, 36
Saponify in the manner directed for the soap by the cold process, and add of perfume
Flowers of benzoin
Oil of bergamot
lavender
"
geranium
.... ...
.
.4 ounces. .3
2
1
Tincture of benzoin
.8
2
dissolving
Gum
tragacanth (in mucilage)

is
The mucilage of tragacanth

the 2 ounces of
made by
water by maceragum tion for about twenty-four hours, stirring and strainalkali is in. ing, and is added to the soap after all the 19
in 2 pints of
290

make
the soap more
soluble, adds to to the skin, and
It helps to
its
emolliency, and is softening should be used in all superfine soaps. The benzoin soap should be colored a light brown to resemble the
gum.
Ambergris or Ambrosial Soap.
(Savon d'Ambre Surfm.)
Hard body with ambergris musk

"
15 pounds.
5
"
ambrette
10
10
\
"
"
Jasmine pomade, No. 24 Eose
.10
.
.
" "
Beeswax
tragacanth Caustic lye of soda, 36

.
Gum
.2 ounces.
.
25 pounds.
Saponify
in the usual
manner
care to keep the heat under 150
for cold soaps, taking F., and when finished
perfume with
Oil of lavender
....
.
.
2 ounces.
Color
lilac or light purple.
"
Bouquet Soap.
Soft
(Savon au Bouquet.)
30 pounds.
body
oil
. . .
Cotton-seed
.10
.
" "
"
Cocoa-nut
"White
oil
.
9
1
wax
Gum
Make
tragacanth 1^ ounces. Caustic lye, 10 per cent, of potash 25 pounds.

. . .
this soap as directed for cold soap,
and per-
fume with

Oil of bergamot " cedrat " cloves
.
291
.4 ounces.
.
4 2
1
"
"
"
"
"
thyme
neroli
"
Color a light yellow.

Lettuce Soap.
(Savon au Sue de Laitue.)
Lard with
lettuce-juice
.
Spermaceti Cocoa-nut oil Cotton-seed oil
...
.
.
30 pounds.
1
.10
.9
2 ounces.
Gum
tragacanth,
lettuce-juice
....
dissolved in
.
Caustic
lye,
36
.25 pounds.
Saponify and perfume with

Oil of bitter almond "
.
bergamot
"
cloves
Powdered
orris root
.4 .....4
.
.
1| ounces.
Color light green.
Musk
Soap.
(Savon au Muse.)
.
Hard body of musk Eose pomade, No. 24

Cotton-seed
oil
.
.5
.15 pounds.
"
Cocoa-nut
oil
.20 .10
Gum
tragacanth Caustic lye, 36
.
. .
.2 ounces.
.25 pounds.
292
Saponify and color brown, and perfume with

Oil of bergamot u rose " cloves
.
.4 ounces.
.
.
Tincture of
musk
"
Millefleur Soap.
(Superfine.)
.
.
Hard
body of ambrette
"
vanilla
10 pounds. " 10
5 5
" "
Cassie pomade, No. 24 " " Rose
Cocoa-nut oil Cocoa butter Yellow wax

Caustic
lye,
15
"
"
4
1
"
"
mixed, 36
.
25
Gum
tragacanth
.2 ounces.
.
Color light brown, saponify, and perfume with

Oil of lavender "
.
.
1 ounce.
bergamot geranium
cloves
.
2
\
"
"
Tincture of
"
musk
ambergris
.2 .1
"
"
"
Violet Soap.
(Superfine.)
.
Violet pomade, No. 24 " Oil of jasmine, " "

cassie,
.10 pounds.
.
.
Palm
oil
..
(bleached)
10 10 20
1
"
" " "
Wax
'Gum tragacanth
Caustic soda
lye,
..
.2 ounces.
.
36
25 pounds.
293
Saponify by the cold process, and perfume with
Extract of
"
violet, !N"o.
.8 ounces.
.
rose,
"
.
.
" "
Color yellowish-green.
In this manner can the maker of

all
toilet
soaps
make
would
varieties of superfine soaps, be unnecessary to give further recipes.
the
known
and
it
CHAPTER
XXIII.
this chapter I must give varieties of soap that may be
IN
proper assortment, or rent demands of the trade.
some details of other demanded to make a be required to meet the cur-
Soft soaps, as I have said, are made with potash lye, and, owing to the limited quantity sold, they are usually made in a
small
way by
the cold process, as described in
making
the hard soda soaps. The old formulas for making the soft white soap, or shaving cream, directed it to be made with lard, which does not by itself make a
satisfactory soap, as it does not produce a sufficiently copious lather, so necessary for shaving.
Shaving Cream.
(White potash
soap.)
Yeal suet Lard

Cocoa-nut oil Potash lye, 36
.
60 pounds. 20
.
.
.20 .50
"
294:

in a pan, of the
Melt the grease
kind described
before and illustrated
by
steam jacket, as seen by

into
it
Fig. 38, or by means of a Fig. 39 ; divide the alkali

to
two parts, and dilute one with water mark about 21, and place it so that it
make
run
is
will
gently into the melted grease.

;
When
;
the grease
about 112 F. turn on the lye keep stirring and regin about two hours ulate the temperature below 200 the soap will begin to form and will separate in grains ;
then add the other portion of lye at 36, and continue the constant stirring until it becomes too stiff to work, when remove the fire, and beat it, while cooling, into
smooth a mass as possible, when cover the pan or remove into any suitable wooden vessel. The pearly appearance has yet to be given by means of beating in small portions in a marble mortar, or by running it To rapidly through the stone rollers of the mill. make almond cream, perfume with oil of bitter almonds and a little bergamot. To make the rose shaving cream, color with fine French vermilion, of the proportion of a drachm to the pound of cream, and perfume with oil of rose and rhodium. To make ambrosial, color with tincture of archil and perfume with tinctures of ambergris and musk, oils of cloves and bergamot. The colors and perfumes are mixed at
as
the time of milling or rubbing in the mortar.
Floating Soaps.
These soaps have many admirers, and when made

of the proper materials are excellent, as the particles of air with which they are filled cause them to lather
freely.
They should only be made of vegetable
oil
soaps, as soap with tallow or lard will not float.
To
prepare
Nympli Floating Soap,
295
Take Palm
oil
soap
oil
Cocoa-nut
soap
30 pounds. " 20
Let them be stripped or milled and put in a marine bath with a gallon of water, and when perfectly disbe rapidly stirred with a churn-like contrivance to about twice its capacity, when it can be The accompanying turned into shallow frames. figure will give an idea of a suitable apparatus.
solved let
it
Fig. 46.
Kettle
for floating soaps.
Powdered Soaps
Are
a very convenient form for using soap for shavmade ing or lavatory purposes, and are when well
very neutral.
milled
it
soap, and, having on sheets of clean, strips, put from dust, strong paper, in a warm, dry place, free and when perfectly hard and dry grind it in the mill
into
it
To make them Take the best boiled white
296
to
it
it
an impalpable powder, using a drum sieve to make uniform. If the soap is to remain white, perfume with oil of bitter almonds. If red, color with a
fine vermilion to
each pound of powder, and perfume like rose soap. If yellow, color with
drachm of
powdered gamboge, and perfume as desired. rule, the color should be added before sieving.
Sap02}hane or Oleophane.
As
This transparent soft soap
some people, and is usually dissolved in strong alcohol.

Alcohol, 95
.
much patronized by made from good soaps

is
Take of soap of tallow and

.
rosin
.8 pints.
;
6 pounds.
The soap
is
is
to be well milled
and dried and put

stirred until all
;
into a water-bath with the alcohol
dissolved
colored with tincture of saffron
and
perfumed with
Oil of cinnamon " cloves
.
i
.
^ ounce. "
1 1
lavender Tincture of styrax

.
"
for
And
immediately put into the bottle intended vending.
Soap Essences
Are made by the solution of soap in alcohol and to make them, soaps made with vegetable oils must only
;
be used, as on cooling.
all
others
would
solidify or
become opaque
Take
.
.
"White castile soap Alcohol, 85
.12
.
ounces.
.4 pints.
J ounce.
Liquor potassa, U.
S.
P.
297
Let the soap be cut up into fine shavings and dissolved in a water-bath with the alcohol and liquor
potassa, and into bottles.
when
it
is
dissolved perfume and put
the alkali
Alcohol of 85 is about the proper strength, and is added to keep it liquid. The usual peris
fume
Oil of geranium
"
3 drachms.
1 "
lemon grass
cloves
.
.4
.
This essence will retain a little glycerine in solution, and is a delightful and convenient article for
shaving, cleaning the teeth, etc. and I would suggest to the perfumer that he could prepare many other similar preparations that would be pleasant to
;
use and might become popular.
Transparent Soaps.
These salable soaps are made with alcohol and curd

soap; the curd soap must be a soap made of tallow or suet, as there have not been discovered any others
The soap is stripped that will remain transparent. and milled and dried perfectly dry; and the alcohol
should be 95, or the process may fail. The curd soap is reduced to shavings and perfectly dried and mixed with twice its weight of alcohol of 95, and put into an alembic, Fig. 47, fitted with a
stirrer,
when
after a day's rest it is put into a water-
bath, and, by means of a condenser, the most of the alcohol is distilled off and recovered to use again, or
for
something else when but little comes over, stop the heat, and when it has become somewhat cool pour it into moulds, which are usually spherical and much
;
298

is
larger than the soap
intended to be, Fig. 42, as
it
requires some drying and exposure to the air to make it transparent, when it is turned into balls or pressed
into cakes in moulds.
The perfume
previous to pouring from the still. tincture of archil yellow with tincture of saffron.
;
added just Color red with

is
making a transparent soap by the cold process, which results in a great saving of time over the old method. Take
is
There
a recipe for
Tallow or suet (refined) Caustic lye, 36, 10 per

potash
20 pounds.
cent, of
10
.
.
"
Alcohol, 95
.2 gallons.
Saponify the tallow with 5 pounds of the lye (in the manner described for cold soaps), stirring for about two hours ; add the other 5 pounds to the
alcohol, with the heat under 140
F.,
and add very
stirring; and when the soap begins and is thoroughly mixed, turn into a thicken, frame, which should be surrounded with a cotton cloth to keep the heat in, and cool as gradually as This soap attains its transparency by possible. about a week's exposure to the air. The color and
gradually,
to
still
perfume should be put

the frame.
in previously to
pouring into
cheaper kind of transparent soap is made with tallow and rosin soap dissolved in alcohol, and can be made in two ways first, by the process already
:
given for transparent soap, by distillation of the excess of alcohol ; second, by having the soap of tallow and rosin; which should be a boiled soap, cut, milled
and dried, and
to each
pound, put into a vessel with
299
cover and insert into a water-bath, adding 1 pint of strong alcohol, and when dissolved put into a frame
and allow to remain
for a
few days
to harden.
Fig. 47.
Still
and water-bath
for
transparent soaps.
Wash Balls
or Savonettes..
These spherical lumps of soap have been long in use, and have had a large sale, and are still in demand. Nearly all the second quality soaps of which we have given the formulas can be moulded into that form, though they are usually made from the mottled or marbled or the transparent soap. They are made by a very simple instrument of glass or metal, being
a cup of suitable size, with sharp cutting rim, which, being held in the right hand, while the lump of soap is in the palm of the left, is passed over the surface
of the lump, cutting the uneven surface in all directions, leaving a perfectly round lump in the hand. Of course it may require some practice to be expert
300
at
it,

for
is
process
they have to be of uniform simple and soon acquired.
size,
but the
or marbled soap in red and blue veins has the handsomest appearance in these globes
The variegated
of soap, and these veins are usually given to the soap while in the frame, as previously described, red being made with vermilion and blue with ultramarine. The
perfume is generally a mixture of sassafras, thyme, and cloves, though, of course, the toilet soap-maker can have them of any color and perfume he desires but fine soaps are seldom seen in this form.
;
CHAPTER XXIV.
MILLING AND MOULDING TOILET SOAPS.
TOILET soaps
this
are
much improved by
of labor bestowed upon their is due much of the superiority they have over the common soaps, the ingredients being much the
amount manufacture, and to

the
same
and as
have remarked of the old brown
Windsor, so generally admired, its good qualities lie in the frequency of its melting and drying, and the labor in its manufacture; so that when the maker of toilet soaps has supplied himself with a stock of white, palm, half-palm, and cocoa-nut oil soaps, he may produce by means of labor, color, and perfume any soap he requires. Besides the machinery and implements already given, it will be necessary to have a stripper to shave up the soap into thin shreds, and a mill to grind it and thoroughly mix all the colors and perfumes.

iff.
301
48.
Soap cutter or
stripper.
stripping machine (Fig. 48) consists of

cutter.
A. The
B. Iron shaft which traverses the centre of the

cutter, with a handle, C, to give
it
motion.
Frame upon which the cutter rests. E. Inclined plane of wood on which the bar of soap,
F,
is slid
Gr.
D D.
towards the cutter.

to receive the cut soap.
Box
The bar of soap, being put upon

as the cutter revolves, is and falls into the box below,
the inclined plane, shaved into small shavings
and being mixed with
the color or perfume
is
put into the hopper of the
mill to be" thoroughly combined.
A milling machine (Fig. 49) consists of A A. Frame of iron which supports the machine.
BB
B.
Cylinders of granite or iron to grind the
fly-wheel, to give motion to the
soap.
C.
Crank and
machine; with power, a pulley is put in its stead. D. scraper formed of a large blade of steel, and
fixed against the last cylinder to scrape the soap
from
it.
302

Fig. 49.
(Soap mill.
E. Large wooden box (zinc lined) to receive the crushed soap.

F. Hopper to receive the shavings of soap and give them to the cylinders. These machines save a great deal of labor, as before their use it was customary to shave up the soap with a plane or knife, and remelt it with the colors and perfumes to efiect a combination of the ingredients.
up and ground in the proportions required of white soap, palm soap, halfpalm soap, or cocoa-nut oil soap, as the formula calls for, can, when in the boxes, be mixed with the suitable color and perfume, and put into the hopper of the mill and run through a sufficient number of times
soap, being shaved to form a perfectly When the soap
paste. to suit, it is next formed into rough pieces of suitable weight for the mould, and of somewhat similar form to the intended cake.
is
The
homogeneous
made
This is usually done by hand, and is called plotting, and in large laboratories it is usual to have a machine for the purpose. These plotting machines are of
303
various forms, and are used for pushing out the soap through an orifice of suitable size and cutting off the cake of soap as it exudes, which falling on an endless belt is carried into a receiver. When the
cakes are plotted into some shape suitable for the mould, and weighing about 20 per cent, more to alfor drying, they are placed on the racks to dry ; these racks are made of strips of poplar or beach-
low
wood, and so arranged that the air can reach all parts of the soap. Fig. 37 gives an idea of a suitable rack.
After the pieces of soap have dried a few days they can be moulded, which is done in several kinds
Figure 34 shows a lever press which, most expeditious. Figure 50 shows a screw press that has great power, and is
of forms.
for small cakes, is the
suitable for
moulding the largest cakes.

Fig. 50.
Screw press
for toilet soaps.
A A.
B B.
C
C.
Platform to support the press. Strong oak board used to receive the press.
Frame
of the press.
304

to receive the
D. Screw provided with groove

upper
shell of the
is
mould.
EE
F F.
the
fly,
surmounted with
balls at each end.
Cast-iron matrix to receive the two dies. G. Brass mould of two pieces. H. Rods adapted by means of screws to a horizontal bar below E E, which passes under the matrix and raises the rod L after each pressure, and raises the lower shell of the mould, when the cake can be taken from the mould and another substituted to be
pressed into form.
There are
still
:
other implements needed to com-
pair or two of scales to weigh plete the list, as the soap in bulk and in small cakes of different sizes.
Several tables to hold the different tools and to
work
or
upon.
A marble mortar
of good capacity.
Two
three other mortars of
wedgwood and glass.
Sieves,
pallet-knives, trays to hold the
moulded soap, gradu-
ated measures for measuring liquids, etc. etc. In moulding the plotted cakes into the required
form, they are taken after they have become sufficiently dry, and with the hands dipped into alcohol
for the mould,
and rubbed to take off the white spots and clean them and prevent their sticking to the dies and if the cakes are too soft, salt and water are used
;
to prevent their sticking in the moulds.
If the soap
sary to let
it
of fine quality it may still be necesdry a few days more after moulding,
is
again rubbed with a piece of soft rag and and put into neat boxes or into wrappers. alcohol, The soaps that can be made by this process of milling are innumerable, and it would be impossible to give them all, so I shall only give the most popular and best known, as
it is
when

Bouquet Soap.
305
White soap
Half-palm soap
.50 pounds. .50

color,
10 ounces of powdered gamboge to to perfume it

Oil of bergamot " cloves "
and add
....
.
.
thyme
8 ounces. " 2 " 4
rosemary
neroli
4
2
"
stripped, then milled, and then the color and perfume are mixed in the box, when it is run through the mill several times until perfectly
is first
The soap
uniform in color, when it is plotted, dried, and moulded as directed and these directions apply to all the following formulas
;
:
Rose Soap.
White soap
Cacoa-nut
(cold or boiled)
.
.
50 pounds.
oil
.50
To
color take 12 ounces of
French vermilion.
To
perfume take
Oil of rose "
bergamot.
cloves
neroli
.
....
.
3 ounces. " 4
1 1 1
"
"
cinnamon (true)
Marshmallow Soap.
Palm soap White "

20
(boiled or cold soap) "* "
50 pounds. " 50
306
Color with tincture of armotto.

Oil of lavender "
.
...
.
Perfume with
4 ounces.
2
"
lemon
lemon-grass
peppermint
"
petit-grain
.2 .2
.
"
Elder Flower Soap.
100 pounds. Half-palm soap Color with tincture of annotto
....
.
.
and ultramarine
q.
s.
Perfume with
Oil of bergamot " cassia " lavender
"
It is quite
.
.
.4 ounces.
.
petit-grain
.1
.
1| 3|
1
"
"
almonds
such as
common now
to
add to soap an emol-
lient substance,
rice-flour, corn-meal, or oat-
meal, from the softness these meals give to the skin,

.and especially to the hands.
Oatmeal
Socyi.
.
.
White soap
.50 pounds.
.
Half-palm soap Cocoa-nut oil soap Oatmeal (coarse ground)

. .
20
12
"
.13
.
After stripping the soap the meal is sieved in and moistened with water, to allow for the dryness of the
meal.
For cleaning
.and
the, dirt
is
from the hands of mechanics

also
others, sand
incorporated into soap;

;
307
powdered pumice-stone, making poncine soap and These ingredients are best also sawdust, etc. etc. added to the melted soap, for they would be likely to They can be added to the finished injure the mill. in the frame, sufficient water being added to soap
give a proper consistency to
it.
Erasive $oop, for removing Grease Spots from

Clothes.
Cocoa-nut
oil
soap
Melt and add 1 quart of water to when 10 pounds of dried and powdered fuller's earth are stirred in, and when mixed allowed to cool in the
frame.
if desired, such as oil of sassaor thyme. fras, cloves, lavender, The honey and glycerine soaps are, as I have be-
.20 pounds. make it fluid,
Add
perfume
fore said, usually
made
solid in the frame.
SOAPS BY PATENT PROCESSES.
New
processes for
making soaps
are being con-
stantly invented, involving the use of new patented machinery the products being more or less perfect.
;
That of Messrs. Hodgson and Hoi den is very ingenious, and causes a combination of the materials by means of steam injected into a cylinder of iron, the steam-pipe passing through its centre, which is perforated with holes for the escape of the steam while The action of the steam the cylinder revolves.
during the revolution of the cylinder produces a complete combination and saponification of the materials, and is said to produce a very satisfactory result; though I cannot see how the degree of moisture injected with the steam can be regulated, and the
308
soap made with this apparatus must, therefore, be of a very uncertain consistence. much better invention is that of Messrs. Bennet
and Gibbs, in which carbonated alkali is made to combine with the oils or greases in a similar iron cylinder under the influence of heat and high steam pressure, with agitation to cause a thorough mixture of the ingredients, and produces a very fair soap,
the glycerine. The oils or greases, in the proportion of 100 pounds to about 34 pounds of carbonate of soda or soda ash, and 100 pounds of
containing
all
water, are put into an iron cylinder of great strength, and the heat is raised sufficiently to cause a pressure
of 350 to 400 pounds to the square inch. revolving shaft like that of a churn is kept in motion for about
an hour, the heat being kept as regular as possible,

or at least the pressure uniform. By this means the combination will be very complete; and in the pre-
paration of toilet soaps,

oils,
and water
is
when the proportion of alkali, very accurately calculated, this mode
of manipulation should be very effective, and, like the soap made by the cold process, would contain all the
glycerine.
This apparatus might also be effectively used in making soaps to simulate Marseilles soaps from the
cotton-seed
oil,
as
shown
in
Chapter
XXI.
APPENDIX.
SECTION
I.
SYRUPS, JELLIES, CANDIES THEIR FLAVORS COLORS.
AND
"WiTH our rapid march in the arts of civilization and wealth we naturally look for all our surroundings to improve in an equal ratio. "While in our earlier we may have been satisfied with the ordinary days kinds of candies and confectionery, not knowing there were better to be had, or finer qualities made, but when in going abroad w.e see and taste the products of other countries
;
we
naturally ask
why
our
own
people, having equal advantages, do not endeavor to improve their productions, and if not excel at least rival the Europeans in this useful business?
For while we have access to all the different ingredients they use, it would seem to be nothing but
carelessness or indifference, or a dread of innovation upon established methods to prevent this necessary
improvement
others
in this art or trade, as in
almost
all
we endeavor
to rival
and often do excel our
foreign instructors. In the matter of color for candies, bon-bons, and other confections, the makers are often criminally
careless,
unprincipled enough, or perhaps through ignorance, use many
as
there are
some who
are
310
APPENDIX.
colors that are mineral
and often very
deleterious.
Many
a mother grieves over a sick child, wondering
disgust of wholesome food, when a little observation would discover the evil to originate in the apparently innoit the day before which have had lead, tin, mercury, or even arsecandy may nic or copper in the handsome color that attracted her at the time of purchasing it. It is not my desire to cause needless alarm, but to
at the cause of its
nausea and fever, and
its
cent stick of candy given
call
the proper attention of intelligent people to a subject that has called forth much attention in Eng-
land and on the continent, where penal laws have been enacted to prohibit the use of poisonous ingredients
in candies, and other articles used as food and drink, as we often read of alum and other drugs being put in bread,
and litharge, sugar of lead, and red precipitate in wine, arsenic and mix vomica in beer, etc. It is certainly criminal to sell poison to the innocent
purchaser who thinks he is getting wholesome food, and it is but just that a proper punishment should be meted out to the offender.
This offence in the confectioner is particularly criminal, as in coloring and flavoring his candies he can procure all the colors that he needs, and generally of vegetable origin, and entirely free from any deleterious influence whatever, and which would cost
but
more than his pernicious ingredients. Confining myself to a limited space in treating
little
this subject, I will not be able to give full details for any one to manufacture these colors, for it requires a knowledge of chemistry, and costly apparatus to
do
but knowing from my own experiments the perfect feasibility of making all necessary colors from
so,
SYRUPS, JELLIES, CANDIES.

harmless substances, I have thought
it
311
proper to com-
ment upon
it here, and more particularly as I perceive that Mr. Otto Luthy, an experienced chemist of Philadelphia, is now manufacturing a complete
line of these vegetable colors and carmines especially prepared for the use of confectioners, liquor dealers,
which are submitted to full analytical test to prove them perfectly harmless. Although I think this subject of such importance, I cannot dw ell longer upon it, but shall take every opportunity to call the attention of my readers and the public to the abuse referred to, and also to secure
etc.,
T
if
The
ing in
possible proper legislation object of this chapter

jellies
upon
is
it.
to give formulas for
syrups and
my
fruit flavors, and I am digressso much space on the colors, but occupying readers will see the occasion for it.
and
syrups and candies I do not consider dangerous or unwholsome, for they have been used for twenty odd years in candy and
artificial fruit flavors for
The
syrup without ever having any ill effects. Although they are not so pleasant as the natural fruit, yet they can be used where the fruit could not be obtained, and are an excellent substitute, and are often identically analogous in their chemical constituents, although compounded from such divers substances.
I do not suppose the perfumer or apothecary will care to make these artificial flavors, as they are
made much
;
better and cheaper
by the manufacturing
chemist therefore, it is unnecessary to give the formulas for their preparation, for they are intricate, and they require appropriate chemical apparatus.
Apple essence
is
chemically the solution of valeri-
anate of ethyloxide.
312
APPENDIX.
is
Quince essence
a spiritous solution of the pelar-
ginate of ethyloxide. Pear oil is the alcoholic solution of the acetate of
amyloxide.
Pineapple oil is the spiritous solution of the butyrate of ethyloxide. All of these so-called oils are merely ethers derived from organic substances by the chemical action of acids and salts, and to give instructions for their
manufacture would occupy much space, nor do I

think
it would be profitable to make them in a small and it would be more economical to purchase way,
the assortment properly prepared for the purposes of the maker of syrups and flavors.
There are also prepared by many chemists what are called pure fruit juices, but which are seldom genuine, and when pure, have undergone some process by heat or otherwise that impairs their pleasantness of flavor; so whenever the pharmacist has the opportunity of procuring the fresh fruit it is immeasurably superior in delicacy of taste to any artificial
or so-called pure fruit juices which are often only a dilute syrup artificially flavored, with a little glycerine added to preserve them from spoiling.
Therefore let him make genuine fruit syrups from the fresh fruits, which can be prepared in concentrated form in this manner, say
Strawberry Syrup.
Fresh strawberries
Sugar (crushed)
.12 quarts. .20 pounds.
Water
Put
.4 pints.
the strawberries in some, convenient earthen
vessel in layers with 10
pounds of the sugar;
let
313
rest until the next day, when they will be found melted by the absorption of their juice by the sugar;
them
and strain through a coarse strong cloth, reserving the mark, into which stir the 4 pints of water and strain again mix the liquids put into a kettle, and as the mixture becomes warm add the remaining 10 pounds of sugar, when boil gently, take off the scum that rises and strain through a fine
stir well
;
This will make about a gallon of concentrated syrup, which will bear diluting with an equal measure of simple syrup, made in the proportion of 2 pounds of crushed sugar to a pint of water. In this manner can be made all other needed fruit syrups, such as
cloth.
Blackberry syrup. Cherry syrup. Pineapple syrup.
Peach syrup.
Raspberry syrup,
etc. etc.
The syrup of banana

artificial
have to be made with the flavor similar to that given with the flavorwill
ing extracts.
Simple syrup Extract of banana

Citric acid
.....1
.
1 gallon.
ounce. "
Lemon Syrup.
Extract of lemon
Citric acid
.
1| ounce. 2
Simple syrup
.1 gallon.
314
APPENDIX.
Orange Syrup.
Extract of orange
Citric acid
.
.
2 ounces. " 1
i
Tincture of saffron
Simple syrup
...
.
1 gallon.
Catawla Syrup. Catawba wine

. .
Citric acid
Simple syrup
..
.
1 quart. 1 ounce.
1 gallon.
Coffee
Syrup.
.
Extract of coffee
Simple syrup
.
..
. . .
4 ounces.
1 gallon.
Rose Syrup.
Extract of rose Liq. carmine
.
2 ounces.
q.
s.
Simple syrup
...
.
1 gallon.
Orgeat Syrup.
Blanched sweet almonds Crushed sugar

.
Water
....
.
.
2 pounds. 2
1| pint.
"
Simple syrup Extract of bitter almonds Orange-flower water
6J
2
\ ounce.
"
Beat the almonds to a pulp with the water; strain

the milk thus made, and add the other ingredients,
and
strain.

Sarsaparilla Syrup.
315
Simple syrup
Oil of sassafras " aniseed
....
. .
.1
.
ganltheria
...
. .
.
gallon. 1 drachm. " \ 1

q.
s.
Caramel to color Syrup of gum Arabic to make

froth
.
.
it
.
q. s.
sarsaparilla syrups for drinking and soda waters are so only in name and flavor, none of the
The
medicine entering into them; though if the syrup slightly medicated be needed, it may be made as
follows
:
Sarsaparilla Syrup.
Sarsaparilla root, bruised " "
.
.1
.
pound.
"
Liquorice
1
\
Sassafras bark,
"
.
Water
Sugar
.2 gallons.
.20 pounds.
make
into
Boil gently and strain off 12 pints, and

syrup,
when
flavor with
Oil of sassafras
.....
. .
| ounce.
aniseed
"
.5
.
gaultheria
Sherbet Syrup.
Banana essence
Sherry wine Simple syrup
or extract
...
. . . .
1 ounce.
pint.
.1
.
"
316
APPENDIX.
Vanilla Syrup.
Extract of vanilla
Simple syrup
....
.
Bounces.
1 gallon.
Cream Syrup
of fresh cream, in the proportion of 1J of sugar to 1 pint of cream or, if the cream pounds cannot be had, a syrup can be made of the almond
;
Can be made
milk, as directed in orgeat syrup. The bottlers of soda-water cannot well afford syrups so concentrated. They are accustomed to use a syrup
of water
with less sugar, say 12 pounds of sugar to 1 gallon and the three most used are lemon, ginger,
;
and
sarsaparilla.
Lemon Syrup.
(For bottlers of soda-water.) Essence of lemon pint.
Tartaric acid
...
. . . . .
.1 .1 pound.
gallons.
Simple syrup
Ginger Syrup.
.15
(For bottlers of soda-water.)
Essence of ginger Simple syrup

.
.1 pint.
.10
gallons.
Sarsaparilla Syrup.
(For bottlers of soda-water.)
Syrup Caramel
Oil of sassafras
....
. .
.1
J
10 gallons.
pint.
aniseed
gaultheria
1 ounce, " J
"
317
Raspberry Syrup.
Extract of raspberry
Tartaric acid
(For bottlers
(artificial)
...
1 pint.
.1
.
Syrup
Liq. carmine to color
.
pound. 25 gallons.
q.
s.
And
in this
manner can the
bottler of soda-water
make any artificial fruit syrups, or any other syrup, from the formulas given.
Raspberry Vinegar.
Fresh raspberries Acetic acid (from sugar)
.
Water
Crushed sugar
.12 quarts. .10 ounces. .10 pints. .25 pounds.
Mix
the acetic acid with the water and stir with

;
twenty-four hours ; strain through hair sieve or coarse cloth, and boil with the This sugar; skim and strain; let it boil gently. process yields a very superior article, which will
the fruit
let it rest for
keep well and retain its natural flavor. For an ordinary syrup for the soda fountain, add a pint of white wine vinegar to a gallon of raspberry syrup,
natural or
artificial.
Fruit
Jellies.
The making
ties
that
may
of jelly from fruit has some peculiariwell be mentioned, as in unskilful
hands the product is not very good, either to the palate or the eye, from the fact of the improper boiling of the fruit juices with sugar, as a chemical
change often takes place in the conversion of cane sugar into grape sugar by contact with the acid and the aid of heat. In making, as an example,
318
APPENDIX.
Currant Jelly
Let the juice be extracted from the fruit by pressure, and to each pint of juice add two pounds of crushed sugar; and when the sugar is dissolved, and it has come to a gentle boil, it is finished, and can be strained through flannel and put up in jars or glasses. And so with nearly all fruits of an acid nature, long boiling or insufficient sugar will injure them and alter their flavor. There are now many of these jellies used for medicinal purposes, and they call for the attention
of the pharmacist. In making the fruit jellies from the
it is
artificial flavors
necessary for the manufacturer to have recourse to gelatine, to supply the mucilage usual in all fruits.
Therefore, to 'each quart of jelly, an ounce of Cooper's or other good gelatine is first dissolved in the water
and strained, and then the sugar added in the proportion of 2 pounds to the pint of liquid, when the flavor and required color can be added. For instance
Quince Jelly.
Sugar Quince essence

.
.8 pounds.
.
ounce.
Water
Gelatine
.4 pints. .2 ounces.
**
Liq. carmine Citric acid
J
.
"
let it
To
the 4 pints of water add the gelatine
stand twelve hours, then heat to dissolve, and strain; boil the sugar with the water to see if perfectly clear,
when remove from

the acid in
it
the
fire,
and as
it
cools dissolve
and put in the quince essence, and can be put up in jars. In coloring be color, careful to give one appropriate to the name of the jelly.
when
it

Fruit Acid.
Citric acid
.
319
Pure water
8 ounces. 8
In frequent use for flavoring and for syrups.
Kissengen Water
Chloride of sodium
.
8 ounces.
Bicarbonate of soda Sulphate of soda Phosphate of soda Muriate of ammonia

Sulphate of magnesia
2 drachms, 2 15 grains.
5
"
\ ounce. "
Carbonate of magnesia
.
Water
2| pints.
pint to 10 gallons C.
A.
water,
Vichy Water.
Sulphate of potash Chloride^ of soda
.
3 drachms.
Sulphate Carbonate
"
.
ounces.
| drachm.
Phosphate Carbonate of ammonia
"
10 grains.
3 pints.
Water
pint to 10 gallons C.
A. water
Seidlitz Water.
Chloride of soda
3 ounces.
1
Carbonate
"
Sulphate Chloride of lime
"
"
1 drachm.
Water
2 pints.
pint in 10 gallons C.
A. water.
320
APPENDIX.
Spa Water.
Chloride of soda
.
.2 ounces.
.
Carbonate
"
.
.
"
"
Sulphate of magnesia Sulphate of iron
.30
grains.
Water
| pint to 10 gallons C.
2 pints.
A. water.
Saratoga Water.
Chloride of soda
.
.4 ounces.
.
Bicarbonate Iodide
"
. .
"
grains. "
.20
.
Bromide of potash Carbonate of magnesia

.
10
2 ounces.
grains.
Carbonate of iron
"Water
.30
2| pints.
\ pinjt to 10 gallons C. A. water.
These imitations of the spring waters are usually put into a 10-gallon fountain, and* charged in the usual manner with the carbonic acid gas.
SECTION"
II.
THIS subject should be treated scientifically, and some extent must be to enable a practical person
to
to
understand the nature of the ingredients needed to manipulate the many pleasant and useful articles in
the catalogue of a complete apothecary store
;
arti-

cles
321
looked for and generally kept in all wellconducted establishments, and they should be of better quality and character than those lower class of liquor dealers.
now
found among the
the subject of fermentation and distillation a large volume might be written without exhausting it, for it has occupied the minds of men for many cen-
On
among the Egyptians, Bacchus among Noah among the Jews, according to tradition, taught man the art of cultivating the grape, and the making of wine, but they knew nothing of
turies.
Osiris
the Greeks, and
for it is scarcely
the science or the causes of alcoholic fermentation, more than a century since chemistry
discovered
its
true causes under the genius and labor
of Lavoisier, who was the first to establish the fact that sugar, or substances capable of being formed into sugar, were alone capable of entering into spirit-
ous fermentation. If sugar be dissolved in an excess of water, and excluded from the air, it will remain without change, but if air be admitted it is decomposed, becoming brown and sour as aceteous fermentation ensues. If, however, any organic substance be brought into contact with it, being in a state of change, the sugar will participate in the process blood, glue, white of
:
begun to putrefy, will excite fermentation, but yeast is the most remarkable vegetable albumen, gluten, liquorice, and substances that
;
egg, or flesh that has
exist in all fruits, contain large quantities of nitrogen.
Thus, when fruit is crushed, the sugar of the juice in contact with the albumen or gluten and exposed to the air absorbs oxygen rapidly, and the sugar passes into fermentation actively, and alcohol is
formed.
21
322
APPENDIX.
is
necessary at the commencement of the decomposition, which, once begun, extends throughout the mass without requiring an}7 further action from the air. This is what may be called a natural
Oxygen
fermentation.
called
The fermentation of yeast may be an artificial fermentation. The starch of the
grain is converted into sugar by the action of heat and moisture, and the malt thus made is infused in water, and allowed to ferment, when the yeast is pre-
be found to be a grayishsubstance without taste or smell, inyellow granular soluble in water or alcohol, though the former when
cipited,
if purified will
and
warm
solution of pure sugar which has been made to ferment by the addition of yeast furnishes no new yeast, but there remains, after the process, a portion
takes. up about
^th
of
it.
an altered inoperative condition, should the quantity be exactly adequate to the decomposition of the sugar, or in an operative state should the quantity have been originally excesof that originally
in
sive.
mixed
the fermentative liquor contain vegetable albumen or gluten or both, as is usually the case with
if
But
the sweet juices of fruits, these substances become changed into ferments in the course of the fermenta-
by the yeast, and being superfluous, so to speak, they remain entire at the end, and can be collected and used in another operation. On this principle is founded the increased production of yeast, which can be done artificially in this manner: Take two parts of barley malt and one of wheat flour, and stir into six parts of water until thoroughly mixed, put upon a slow fire until the temperature is at 160 Fahr., when sugar will form, then
tion induced
323
pour into a flat dish, and when cooled down to 60 Fahr. stir in a gill of good beer yeast, which will soon cause brisk fermentation. This makes a good yeast for bakers' or family use, and which, if kept in a cool place, will keep good and active for ten days
or more.
There are so many fruits grown in our country, which are frequently abundant and cheap, and nearly all of which will make good wines if properly gathered and manipulated, that it is very desirable to
know something about the

I
have made most
processes for making them. excellent wines from blackberries,
strawberries, raspberries, currants, elderberries, pieplant or rhubarb, and many native grapes of different It would occupy too much space to give the kinds. processes for all of them, but when I describe one it
will serve as a guide to
all.
Blackberry Wine.
quart of blackberries put a half pound of pure sugar, and let it stand a day, when strain through a hair sieve, and for each pint of juice take a pint of
To each
warm
water, and pour over the marc from the first straining, when strain again to get all the substance
of the berries
or keg, and
mix the juices and put into a barrel when it begins to ferment, put into the
;
which should be about 66 Fahr. Let the keg be nearly full, so that the froth may run from the bung, which will carry let it also be kept off a great deal of the impurities If there be any tendency to become perfectly quiet. add a little strong syrup. When the fermentasour, tion has ceased, bung it up tight, or if possible rack it off from the lees into another keg, and stop it percellar for equality of temperature,
;
324
fectly tight,
APPENDIX.
and keep it until mid-winter, when it can be bottled or drunk as desired. Should the wine be sound and of good flavor, it is advisable to put into each bottle an ounce of syrup,
unless
it
be already sweet. grapes are used let them be gathered when perfectly ripe, and in clear weather, and all the unripe and imperfect berries be picked from them.
When
Press out the juice, and put into a keg or barrel completely full, and keep in a cool, quiet place with the
bung
out, so that as the fermentation proceeds the froth will exude, and can be kept full by adding syrup or more juice when the fermentation ceases,
and keep it some months before bottling. It is always best to rack it off if it be convenient, and in bottling to add
and
if
the wine be not sour
bung
it
up,
little
syrup to each
bottle.
JKaisin Wine.
can be made of raisins, and in much of the port that they so much affect England and is made of them, flavored with elderberries To 50 pounds of good raisins to suit. colored
dirt, cut or crushed, but not 12 gallons of soft water, keep it washed, put about about the temperature of 70 Fahr. ; in about two weeks let the wine be separated by straining into a keg with 1 gallon of syrup, and half a pound of cream of tartar. After a month's rest let it be racked If wanted to imitate port off and put in the cellar. wine put into it about 4 pints of elderberry or prune
A very good wine
cleaned from stalks and
juice.
Should
it
not ferment promptly, add a
gill
of good

yeast,
325
and should there be a tendency

rectified spirit.
to sour
add
some
Raisins also
make
good
London Sherry.
Raisins
.
.
Water
Cider
.
.50 pounds. .10 gallons.

.
Syrup Argols Wild-cherry bark

.
.
......
.
5
\
"
Rectified spirit
| pound. " \ 1 pint.
The process
raisin wine.
is
much
the same as above given for
Champagne Wine.
Cider (sound and good)
Sugar
......
.
10 gallons. 5 pounds.
J
"
Argols, white Tincture of orris

Rectified spirit
.
J 4 pints.
4<
Acetic ether
...
.
1 ounce.
This is bottled before fermentation ceases with an ounce of simple syrup to each bottle, and well corked and tied with wire.
To
imitate
Burgundy Wine.
Raisins, crushed (good)
Cider
......
.
.
5 pounds.
Red
tartar
Tincture of rhatany
'
10 gallons. ^ pound. J
3
"
Sugar
Let
it fill
perature of about 70
the keg and be kept at a moderate temwith a rag over the bung hole
326
to
APPEXDIX.
keep out insects. "When the fermentation has let it be racked off, bunged up, and add one ounce of essence of bitter almonds, and put away for some weeks or months if convenient.
ceased
To
imitate
Malaga Wine.
Good
raisins (crushed)
.
.
10 pounds.
gallons.
|
Cider (good)
Rectified spirit
.10
.
Syrup
Elder flowers Acetic ether
.
...
.1 ounce.
\ pound.
Proceed as
caramel.
for
Burgundy, and color with a
little
To
imitate
Claret Wine.
Cider (good and sound)

Rectified spirit Tincture of rhatany
. . .
10 gallons. " 1
\ pint. " \
orris root
Tartaric acid
....
. .
2 ounces.
Proceed as
for the
Burgundy
wine.
Champagne
good and sound Syrup.
Cider,
Cider.
.
.
10 gallons.
l
Rectified spirit
.2 pints.
2 ounces.
Argols
Let
it
to each bottle a
stand twenty-four hours, and bottle, adding drachm of bicarbonate of potash ;
cork well and wire.
327
To
imitate
Apple essence Sugar

"Water
.
.... ......
Cider.
. .
2 ounces. 6 pounds.
gallons.
gill.
.10
1
Yeast
Put
Do
keg with bung out, and in a warm place. not put the bung in till fermentation ceases.
into a
Syrup
......
Ginger Ale.
.
. .
Extract of Jamaica ginger "Water

.
2 gallons. 8 ounces.
.4 gallons.
.
Tartaric acid
4 ounces.
1
gill.
Yeast
Let
it
ferment a few days, and bottle after fermen-
tation ceases.
Spruce Beer.
Molasses
Water
Essence of spruce (heavy) Yeast
.
'5
1
before bottling.
1 gallon. "
4 ounces.
gill.
Let
it
ferment a
little
Hoot Beer.
Lignum
root (bruised) Sassafras bark
....
.
.
2 pounds.
1 1 gallon.
Molasses
Water
Yeast
......
;
5
1
gill-
Boil the root and bark in the water, strain, and add the molasses let it ferment, and add a little oil of wintergreen.
328
APPENDIX.
Mead.
Honey
Light-brown sugar
.
l
.
Water
.4 pounds. .6 gallons.
.
gallon.
Essence of lemon Essence of almonds Yeast
\ ounce.
"
.
\ 1 gill.
Let the flavors be rubbed up with a portion of the sugar, when mix and ferment as for the spruce beer.
Pineapple Cider
Can be made
like the imitation cider,
using the pine-
apple essence instead of the apple.
To make an
imitation of
Cognac Brandy.
French
Rectified spirits (proof) oil of cognac

.
10 gallons. 1 drachm.
2
1
q. s.
Tincture of orris Acetic ether Tincture of vanilla

.
.4 ounces.
"
.
"
Caramel, to color
Let the
the
a
oil
spirit
be pure and thoroughly rectified, and
of cognac dissolved in a little strong alcohol before mixing with the spirit. Let the whole stand
month
before using.
To
imitate
Apple Brandy.
Rectified spirits
.
.10
.
Glycerine
.4 ounces.
2
1
"
gallons.
Tartaric acid
Apple essence Syrup

.
"
.1 pint.
LIQUORS, CORDIALS, DOMESTIC WIXES, ETC.
329
To
imitate
Holland Gin.
Rectified spirits
Spirit
. .
.
.10
.
gallons.
2 pints.
"
.
.
.
Glycerine Spirits of nitrous ether

.
i
.
"
Oil of juniper (fresh and pure)
1 ounce. 1 pint.
Alcohol
Dissolve the
oil
in the alcohol,
;
and add
it
to the
other mixed ingredients

using.
let it rest a
month
before
To
imitate
Jamaica Bum.
Rum
essence (ether)
.
.1 ounce.
8
"
gallons.
Glycerine
Rectified spirits Caramel, to color
.
.10
.
q. s.
Baume
Rhubarb
Aloes Gentian
Saffron
^
de Vie.
root
....
.
(Balsam of
Life.)
2 ounces.
1
1
|
" " " "
Agaric Zedory
Rectified spirit
....
2 gallons.
Let the ingredients be bruised, and macerate with the spirit two or three weeks, when filter. An excellent tonic aperient, given in a dose of a wineglassful.
330
APPENDIX.
a good
.
To make
Wine
Bitters.
. .
Bruised gentian root

orange-peel
.8 ounces, .4 "
.
cardamom seed
grains of paradise
1
1
1 1
"
"
cinnamon
"
sp. saffron
" "
cloves
Rectified spirits
...
.
u
"
5 gallons.
\
Simple syrup
Macerate the
or three weeks,
spirits
filter,
with the ingredients for two and add the syrup.
Aromatic Herb
Lemon-peel
Orange-peel Angelica-peel
Orris-peel
.
...
.
Bitters.
.4 ounces.
.
2
|
J i
" "
" "
Aniseed
Cardamom
Allspice Cloves
seed
.
\
\
" " "

"
i i i
2
.
.
Cinnamon
Sage & Marjoram Ger. camomile
.
. .
" " "
i
.
\
q. s.
Caramel, to color
Rectified spirits
.
4| gallons.
i
Syrup
Let the whole macerate together
filter.
"
for a
month, when
LIQUORS, CORDIALS, DOMESTIC WIXES, ETC.
331
LIQUORS AND CORDIALS.

Essence cPAbsintlie.
Wormwood
Oil of
herb
.1 pound.
.
wormwood
.
J ounce.
Simple syrup
Eectified spirits
.
2|
\ gallon. "
finely divided herb with the spirits for two weeks, filter, and add the oil dissolved in \ pint of alcohol ; add the syrup, and color green with a few
Put the
currant leaves.
Aniseed Cordial.
Oil of star aniseed
(Huile
.
d' Anisette.)
.
.
Syrup
Eectified spirits Tr. saffron

.
.......2
.
.
J ounce. 1 gallon.
.1 drachm.
.
Cinnamon
Cordial.
(Huile de Cannella.)
.
Oil of Ceylon cinnamon Extract of rose

.
35 drops.
\ ounce.
gallon.
Syrup
Eectified spirits Caramel, to color
.....1
.
q. s.
Clove Cordial.
(Huile
.
.
d' QEilett.)
.
Oil of cloves "
.20
.
Ceylon cinnamon
5 2
q.
drops. "
Syrup
Eectified spirits Caramel, to color
....
.
. .
3 quarts.
s.
332
APPENDIX.
Curagoa Cordial.
Oil of bitter orange
neroli
.
...
.
\ ounce.
|
drachm.
Ceylon cinnamon
5 drops.
1 gallon.
Syrup
Rectified spirits Tincture of saifron
.
.2
.
| ounce.
Ginger Cordial.
Extract of ginger
Syrup
.......2
. .
ounces.
"
| gallon.
Rectified spirits Caramel, to color
1|
q. s.
Mint
Cordial.
(Huile de Minthe.)
.
.
Oil of peppermint Alcohol

.
.
.1 pint.
.
.
\ ounce.
Syrup
Rectified spirits
5 10
"
"
Color light-green.
Orange- Flower Cordial.

Oil of neroli petals
bitter
.
.
.1
.
drachm.
"
orange
.
Alcohol
Syrup
Tincture of saifron
Rectified spirits
.
.
1 pint. 1 gallon.
| ounce.
1| gallons.

Perfect Lone Cordial.
333
Extract of cloves
| ounce.
lemon
rose
.
2
JL
"
"
nutmegs
.
.1
.
"
Syrup
Rectified spirits
1 gallon.
Noyau
Cordial.
(Huile de 2foyau.)
.

neroli petals bitter orange
.1 drachm.
i
2
Alcohol
Syrup
.... ....
. .
1
2
1 pint. 1 gallon.
Rectified spirits
Pineapple Cordial.
Pineapple, extract Extract of lemon
2 ounces.
l
" 1 gallon.
Syrup
Rectified spirits
.
Rose Cordial.
Extract of rose
.
2 ounces.
1 gallon.
Syrup
Rectified spirits
.
Color with liquid carmine light red.
Strawberry Cordial.
(Ratafia de Frambois.)
.
Juice of fresh strawberries
1 pint. \ gallon.
Syrup
Rectified spirits
.
\
q. s.
Color with liquid carmine
334
APPENDIX.
Vanilla Cordial.
Extract of vanilla
.2 ounces.
1 gallon.
.
Syrup
Rectified spirits
.
1J
q. s.
"
Color with caramel
Usquebaugh.
Oil of cloves " aniseed " coriander
(Aromatic
.
.
cordial.)
.
.....1
. . .
2 drachms.
1
u "
Extract of ginger Alcohol

. .
.1 ounce. .1 pint.
.
Rectified spirits
1| gallon.
1 "
s.
Syrup Caramel to
color
q.
Mum
Extract of orange
"
Citric acid
Shrub.
. .
.1 ounce.
.
lemon
.
1 1
"
"
Syrup Jamaica rum

.Caramel to color
.1 quart.
.
2| gallons.
q.
s.
Vinegar.
Vinegar can be made from so many things that economy can be practised in having a simple apparaIn a keg or barrel arrange a false tus to make it. bottom with a number of holes bored in it. Place it
three or four inches from the bottom, tapping it at that part for spigot. Break up charcoal about the
size
of walnuts, fill the keg or barrel half full, bore small holes of about a quarter of an inch all around
PERFUMES FOR SEGARS AOT) TOBACCO.
335
the sides above and within a few inches of the false
bottom, slanting them downwards. Break up more charcoal about the size of peas, and nearly fill the vessel, then place a perforated board upon it and a
piece of canvas over that so that the liquid can pass slowly and evenly through the charcoal ; lastly fit on
a cover over the top.
First pass through the barrel a few gallons of good, strong vinegar, then mix 1 pint of whiskey with 12
slowly through, and it will be converted into vinegar by the time it reaches the bottom. The juice of fruit, cider, tomatoes, etc.
pints of water,
and pass
it
etc.,
can
all
be used for the purpose.
The
action of the air
upon the liquid
finely di-
vided by the porous substance, and in a warm atmosphere will soon convert the liquid into vinegar the temperature should be about 100 Fahr. Sugar and water, the settlings of molasses barrels,
;
diluted with water, can be used to make this vinegar. Let them stand a few hours, adding a little yeast for
pass through your percolator or generator, and they will make excellent vinegar.
fermentation,
when
SECTION
III.
FLAVORS AND PERFUMES FOR SEGARS AND TOBACCO.
TOBACCO, so universally used by savage and
civil-
ized, from the time of Sir "Walter Ealeigh, in the sixteenth century, is said to have been introduced into Great Britain by him on his return from Virginia.
Since that time
it
seems to have rapidly increased
336
APPENDIX.
it is
in use, for at the present time articles of commerce, as the
one of the greatest
United States and the
"West Indies produce annually nearly 500,000,000 of pounds, and it is estimated that the consumption of that amount of vegetable material by combustion
would produce 5,000,000,000 pounds of carbonic acid

gas
;
upon
a large contribution to the constant demand the atmosphere for that valuable gas by the
vegetation of the world. In the analysis of tobacco leaves there are found nicotine, gum, malic acid, resin, albumen, malate of
ammonia, sulphate of potassa, chloride of potassa,

Nicotine is an exceedingly powerful substance, only one part being in a thousand parts of the leaf, but that one part gives the quality to tobacco that causes so much pleasure in its use. Segars, snuffs, and tobacco are generally perfumed and flavored, and particularly the tobaccos that are grown in our Southern States that have a strong narcotic flavor when smoked or chewed. The tobacco-
phosphate of lime, starch,
silica, etc.
is
the peculiar active principle, and
nist uses a
number of perfumes
for his flavoring, the
most prominent are

Ambergris, Ambrette,
Benzoin,
Calamus
root,
Orris root,
Tonquin beans,
Valerian root,
Cascarilla bark,
Cedar-wood, Rhodium wood, Santal wood,
Musk,
Civet, Oil of bergamot,
Vanilla beans, Tolu,

Storax, Oil of roses, "
cassie,
lemon,
PERFUMES FOB SEGARS AND TOBACCO.

Oil of lavender,
Oil of cloves,
"
337
verbena,
"
rhodium,
rose geranium, etc.
for snuffs
nutmeg,
The perfumes
vary according to
taste,
and
are usually a combination of several of these ingredients, either in powder, in tincture, or the essential In perfuming a quantity of snuff the perfumes oil.
mixed with a small portion of the snuff, and then incorporated into the mass by sieving or other means. The tinctures I have given of almost all of these drugs can be used for this purpose, and are
are generally
about a suitable strength. Many tobacconists keep a supply of mixed essences to perfume their snuffs to the taste of their customers. Some of them are made
by the following formulas Oil of lemon

.
.1 ounce.
.
cloves
"
"
nutmegs Tincture of Tonquin

.
i
.
"
1 pint.
Or
Oil of "
"
bergamot
lavender
cloves
2 ounces.
1
l
"
Tincture of orris
1 pint.
1 ounce.
Or
Oil of bergamot " cassia
rose
.
.
1 drachm.
| ounce.
geranium Tincture of Tolu
1 pint.
Or
Oil of calamus
. .
\ ounce.
1 pint.
cinnamon
Tincture of Tonquin 22
.
338
APPENDIX.
Or
Oil of rose
. .
| ounce.
Tincture of
musk
"
"
ambergris ambrette.
Tonquin
10 2
" "
any of these essences will perfume a pound of snuff, and from the ingredients given can also be made a powder that can be used in the same manner, though I do not think it so desirable, as it
adulterates the snuff
A few drops of
more
or less.
For segars and smoking-tobacco many of these ingredients can be used, and usually in the form of But when the desire is to improve the essence. flavor of a strong tobacco, and that is the usual object of a perfume, some other preparation may be
useful.
Virginia tobacco and tobacco classed with it contain the most nicotine, and are on that account very strong, it is advisable to steam them by injectleaves.
As
ing steam into a barrel containing the loosely packed Or it is soaked over night in salted water to
extract some of the rank flavor and dark color, and when dry enough to make into segars it can be per-
fumed with an essence something

Tincture of cascarilla
"
.
like this
.
Tonquin Tolu
orris
6 ounces. " 4 " 2

2 2
\
"
"
"
valerian
.
"
"
Oil of nutmegs " cloves " rhodium
1 drachm.
PERFUMES FOR SEG-ARS AXD TOBACCO.
339
There are a number of flavors sold called Yara, Havana, or Spanish flavors, that are generally made by procuring the tobacco of fine quality, and making a strong fluid extract or tincture with diluted alcohol, and perfuming with some of the odors I have enumerated.
For chewing-tobacco the use of perfumes is very limited, as many that would be pleasant to the nose and to the palate when burned, are not agreeable in the mouth so that the flavor has to be such as is of pleasant taste, such as liquorice and other pleasant drugs. Of the manner of curing and manufacturing
;
tobacco for chewing, I cannot pretend to give particulars, as they vary with each manufacturer; each
endeavoring to make it of a flavor original or peculiar to himself, or he has a variety, each with its particular name and flavor, by mixing different growths of
tobacco and varying the flavor. And here I cannot forbear giving my strong disapproval of the use of this narcotic herb in any and every form, for although the practice of smoking has
become so general among
all
nations,
it
really does
great harm. Some seek in tobacco-smoke an agreeable narcotism, others imagine it beneficial to their health
;
but to most people smoking is merely a dreamy recourse against ennui, which ere long becomes an indispensable stimulant. The filthiness of the habit, the offensive odor which persons under its influence emit from their mouths and clothes, the stupor it often
occasions, as well as the sallow complexions, black and carious teeth, and impaired digestion, all prove the great consumption of tobacco to have a most
evil influence
upon mankind, akin
to the dreadful evil
of the excessive use of ardent spirits.
340
APPENDIX.
SECTION
IV.

measuring liquids, an instrument called an hydrometer is used, which is usually a graduated glass tube, having a hollow bulb towards its lower end, terminating in a smaller bulb weighted with mercury the instrument sinks or rises according as the fluid is heavier or lighter than distilled water, which is marked as a standard. That for alkalies has been frequently referred to, and illustrated elsewhere, and gives the approximate
;
FOR
strength of the solution of alkalies at the standard temperature of 60 Fahrenheit, and is generally sufficiently correct.
alcoholometer, or hydrometer for spirits, is very much the same, except that alcohol, being much lighter than water, the instrument sinks the deeper
as the spirit increases in strength. Spirits in the United States are sold
gallon,
The
by the proof
which contains 50 pe"r cent, of alcohol, and is reckoned from that point, but called 100, but which is really double the strength. Thus, alcohol marked 95 is 90 over proof. The 90 is added to the 100, making 190, and divided in half makes the 95
the proof
per cent.
There are other and more correct instruments for ascertaining the strength of spirits than the glass hydrometer, but which are much more expensive. That of Gender's is made of silver, and has an accom-
341
panying thermometer, graduated with three scales, and graded from the standard of 60 Fahr., showing, as the temperature of the liquid rises or falls from that point, how much to add or to subtract from the degree marked on the hydrometer.
For example, suppose the
spirit to
mark 32 with
the hydrometer, and the temperature to mark by the thermometer 6 above the 60 or standard, then the
is
to be deducted from the 32
indicated by the
hydrometer, and shows the spirit to be 26 above If, on the other hand, the thermometer shows proof. 6 below the 60, then the 6 is added to the 32, and
the spirit will be 38 above proof. Thus, in the formulas of this work, spirits and alcohol have been given the degrees mentioned as
thus above proof, according to these calculations
rectified spirits are called for, proof spirit is intended, and if not at hand can be made of 95
and when
alcohol, in the proportion of 9 parts of alcohol to 7 parts of pure water, using the rectified or Cologne
spirits.
The terms used

to those used
for
dry measure or weights allude
by the apothecary, or a modified Troy
weight, as per table.

APOTHECARIES' WEIGHT.
Pounds.
Ounces.
Drachms.
Scruples.
Grains.
gr.
3
1
3
96
8
1
B
288 24
3
1
12
1
5760 480
60 20
342
APPENDIX.
APOTHECARIES' MEASURE.
Gallon.
Pint.
Fluidounce.
Fluidrachm.
Minim.
Cong:
1
m
128
16
1
1024
128
8
1
61440
7680 480
60
FRENCH DECIMAL WEIGHTS.
343
SECTION V.
As
a secondary part of this
work
it
may
be useful
to give the recipes, formulas, and character of many articles for the pharmacist or perfumer ; that though
they may not be actually essential, may yet prove very useful. In this department it is not intended to give general recipes, but only such as are likely to be of service in his business and applicable to the numerous
uses contingent thereto.
Almond Powder for

ed)
the
Hands.
1 pound.
Almonds (blanched and powderWhite

Castile soap (dried and
powdered)
....
. . . .
.
Orris root (powdered) Pumice stone (fine powdered)
8 ounces. 2
6 2 drachms.
Essential
oil
of almonds
Sieved
hands.
all
together into a fine powder.
Useful for cleansing, softening, and whitening the
Alum
Soap.
(Detersive Toilet Soap.)

cold process)
.
.
White soap (by Powdered alum

Olive
oil
5 pounds.
J
2 ounces.
cut into shavings and dissolved by
This soap
is
344
heat,
APPENDIX.
and the
to suit.
oil
fume
skin.
and powdered alum stirred in. PerIt has the property of whitening the
Aromatic Candles for Perfuming Apartments.

Melt camphor and balsam of Peru with the stearine may be made or impregnate the wicks with perfume, by steeping them in some aromatic tincture and drying them.
or with whatever material the candles
;
Antiseptic
Soap for Preserving Birds, Animals, Anatomical Preparations, etc.
Curd Soap Carbonate of potash Arsenic

. .
...
.
.2 pounds.
.
J
"
|
Camphor
a marine bath,
"
Dissolve the soap with a small portion of water in when add the other ingredients pre-
viously powdered and mixed together.
Areca Nut Tooth Paste.

Charcoal of the betel nut
. .
8 ounces.
1
1
Powdered
"
cloves
" "
cinnamon
orris
.
"
Made
teeth.
into a paste with honey.
This paste has fine properties as a whitener of the
Ambergris Wine.
10 drops of tincture of ambergris added to 1 gallon of claret or Burgundy wine improves the bouquet very much.
Arrack (Imitation}. half drachm of benzole acid added
345
of
An New
England Rum,
to a quart of good age, will imitate this
favorite tipple.
Annealing Glass
Vessels.
In order to guard against any imperfection in the annealing of glass retorts and other apparatus used
by the perfumer and chemist, it were well

in a vessel
to put them and raise the heat to the boiling oil, when, after being boiled for a quarter of an point, hour, and suffered to cool very gradually, they will be found well tempered.
with
Augia
Sinensis.
(Chinese Varnish.)
like consistence,
This very useful balsam, of a greenish, turpentineused by the Chinese as a varnish or lacker, is perhaps one of the best and most durable known, and might be imported and used in this country with great advantage, as it can be colored
any
color,
and
is
susceptible of a very fine polish.
Japan Lacker.
The
lacker or varnish used
by the Japanese
is
pro-
cured from the rhus vernix or swamp sumach, cultivated in Japan and growing wild in this country.
The trunk
of the tree
is
wounded, when the juice
which flows soon blackens in the air; when purified and colored it affords this celebrated varnish.
Amalgams for
One
Filling Teeth.
part of grain gold or silver is treated in a crucible with two parts of mercury, and stirred with
346
APPENDIX.
an iron rod until combined.
When
cold enough to
handle, the excess of mercury can be pressed out by These straining through a piece of chamois leather. are a durable stopping for cavities in teeth.
Anotta Coloring for Butter.
Roco seed
Carbonate of potash "Water

. .
.1 pound. .2 ounces. .2 pints.

;
Let the seed be ground to a coarse powder, and boiled with the water for half an hour add the salt of tartar; when strain and bottle. Owing to the imbe made of
purities of the anotta of commerce, this article can much better quality by using the seed.
AROMATIC AND MEDICATED BATHS.

Aromatic Bath.
Lavender, thyme, and rosemary, of each Cloves and peppermint, of each
.
.8 ounces.
"
.
\
;
Macerate in warm water add to an ordinary bath.
for
two hours
strain
and
Alkaline Bath.
Carbonate of soda (crystal)
6 ounces.
1
Borax
"
Dissolve in a quart of hot water. This is the proper quantity for an ordinary bath of
30 gallons.
Sea 'Water Bath.

Muriate of soda Sulphate of soda Chloride of lime
"
.
.1
.
2 pounds. i
\
u
"
"
magnesia
347
Dissolve in about 2 gallons of warm water, and add to an ordinary bath of 30 gallons.
Camphor ated Bath.

Tincture of camphor " " benzoin
.
.1 ounce.
"
.
Cologne water
into an ordinary bath, and it will be found very refreshing, as it is a fragrant tonic and cosmetic.
Drop slowly
Emollient Bath.
Barley meal
.
...
.
pound.
"
Bran Borax
2
.
.
.1
ounce.
Dissolve in two quarts of warm water, and add to an ordinary bath. "Well adapted to soften the skin.
Perfumed Bath.
Cologne water " Rose
.... ....
.
3 ounces.
1 pint. J ounce.
Tincture of vanilla
Mix the Cologne and tincture, and add to the rosewater by degrees, and put into an ordinary bath.
Milk Bath.
Marshmallow flowers
J pound.
.
Hyssop herb
Bran
flour
.
.4
This mixture added to an ordinary bath will be found a good substitute for a milk bath, which is
very expensive.
348
APPENDIX.
Sulphuretted Bath.
Sulphuret of potash
.2 ounces.
Dissolved in a quart of an ordinary bath.
warm
water, and added to
Blonde Liquid for Bleaching

Muriatic acid
.
.
the
.
Hair.
2 ounces.
" \ 1 pint.
Aqua ammonia
Rose-water
....
. . .
This mixture applied to dark hair

it
said to change to a flaxen hue, as will also a solution of sulphide

is
of cadmium.
Blacking for Shoes (Liquid}.

Ivory black Cod-liver oil
Oil of vitriol
.
.
.
.1 gallon.
.
.50 pounds.
.10 pounds.
1
Powdered gum Senegal

Molasses
. . .
"
4 gallons.
.
.
Vinegar Grind the ivory black and gum and oil with a portion of the vinegar; add the molasses, and pour in
very slowly the oil of vitriol while stirring, and, when combined, add the balance of the vinegar.
15
"
Blacking for Shoes (Paste).

Ivory black Molasses
Cod-liver
.
. .
Oil of vitriol
oil
.
.....4
.
.2 gallons.
.25 pounds.
4 pounds.
gallons.
"Vinegar
.6
.
Powdered gum Arabic
| pound.
Let
the
oil all
349
the ingredients be mixed together (except of vitriol) and ground into a paste, when the
vitriol is slowly stirred in,
and
let it
be stirred every
day
for a
week before using
or boxing, to insure a
perfect combination.
Brushes of JRoot for
the Teeth.
prepared from of about half an inch liquorice root, selecting pieces in thickness, scraping off the outer bark and slitting
for
Eoot brushes
the
teeth are
one end, for about half or three-quarters of an inch, with repeated slits, to form a brush, and then immersing them in a solution of liquid carmine or a decoction of Brazil
wood
to color them.
Bronzing Liquid (for Iron).
Blue
vitriol
....
.
1 ounce. \
Spirits of nitre
Tincture of chloride of iron
"
.
Aqua
fortis
\
1
"
"
"Water
Dissolve the blue vitriol in the water, and add the other ingredients separately. In using, the iron articles should be made bright
and this liquid should remain on them for about a day, and be then wiped off, and a coat of lacker put on them while warm the appearance can be improved by a little color in the lacker.
and
clean,
Bougies and Catheters.
These useful surgical appliances are made of a cylindrical web of cotton and saturated several times with the following varnish, each time drying by moderate heat, when they can be polished with tripoli and oil.
350
APPENDIX.
India-rubber Varnisli for Catheters.
Caoutchouc
....
.
8 ounces.
Amber
Linseed
oil
4
(boiled)
.
.
"
12
Spirits of turpentine
.4
The India-rubber
solved in the hot
tine while cooling.
is
oil,
cut into small pieces, and disadding the amber and turpen-
Bunion and Corn
Plasters.
These plasters are made of various substances, as leather, felt, amadou, etc. the white felt being the most common. In preparing these the felt is stretched upon a frame or a partition, and first coated with a solution of dextrine, and when dry with four or five coats of fine isinglass in solution of 6 ounces
;
to 1 quart of water.
Those of chamois leather or of amadou are prepared in the same manner. They are cut with a hole
in the centre to allow the
head of the corn or bunion
to be free
from the pressure of the shoe.

or
Hungarian Corn
Diachylon plaster
Bunion
.
.
Plaster.
.4 ounces.
2
"
.
Beeswax
Gum
Olive
galbanum
oil
1 1
u
"
Verdigris, in powder
.1
verdigris is stirred into the other ingredients previously dissolved together by heat. This is usually formed into sticks, and applied to soft
leather of proper size for the corn or bunion.
The powdered
351
German Corn
Plaster.
.
Galbanum
Sal
Stir the
plaster
.
.4 ounces.
.
Black pitch
ammoniac
powdered
...
.
2
J
"
sal
ammoniac
into the melted
plaster
this is also
used for warts.
Corn Solvent.
Salts of tartar (desiccated)
.
1 ounce. \
Bole Armenia Resin ointment
.1
This is spread upon kid, the exact size of the corn or bunion, and after some hours the feet are put into warm water, and the corn will be found soft enough
to pick out with the fingers.
Care must be taken to

it is
keep the solvent

quite caustic.
off the
surrounding skin, as
Alum
......
juice
Chilblain Lotion.
Camphor Cucumber
Chilblain Ointment.
Powdered
galls
.... ....
. .
| ounce. 1 drachm.
2 ounces.
1 ounce.
Resin ointment
Another
Spermaceti ointment
Sugar of lead
Glycerine
....
.2 ounces.
1 drachm. \ ounce.
352
APPENDIX.
Lotion for Chapped Hands.
Borax
......
.
.
Glycerine
Honey
Rose-water
Cerate for
...
.
2 drachms. " 2 " 2 4 ounces.
Chapped Hands.
.
Spermaceti Glycerine
Sal
.2 ounces.
"
.
ammoniac
.1
.
drachm.
Calledermic Powder for Whitening the
SMn.
Powdered marshmallow
Carbonate of soda Barley meal
.
.
.
root
.
2 ounces. " 2
12
"
Used
as a soap powder.
Lotion for Scurf on Infants' Heads.
Borax
Glycerine Rose- water
.
.
J ounce.
u
. . .
"
it
will
Applied once a day it will soften the scurf, and come off, and also prevent its forming again.
Brilliantine for the Hair.
Veal
fat
.
4 ounces.
.
.
Spermaceti Castor oil
.2
2
.
"
Oil of almonds "

."
bergamot
cloves
2
1
\ drachm. "
"
Ointment for Barbels
Spermaceti ointment Lac sulphur Vermilion Rose-water
.
353
Itch.
... .....
.
.2 ounces.
2 drachms.
1 u \ ounce.
.
Liquid for Bleaching Sponges.

Muriatic acid
Sulphuric
"
.
Water
.... .....2
1
.
2 ounces.
pounds.
Let the sponges be well washed, and freed from sand and stones, and while wet put into this liquid, and after three or four hours taken out and washed in clean water until they are free from acid lastly, dry in the shade. If not white enough the process can
;
be repeated.
Cement for China, Glass,

Isinglass (finest)
.
.
etc.
.2 ounces.
.
Gum
"
ammoniac
mastic
.
.
\ 1
1
Alcohol
I'-
Let the isinglass swell in 8 ounces of water for about six hours pour off the water, when apply heat to dissolve it. Rub up the gum ammoniac with the
;
dissolved isinglass until mixed, then strain. Dissolve the gum mastic in the alcohol by aid of heat, strain, and mix the two liquids. To be kept in well-corked
bottles.
wanted cement in hot water, and also be warmed.

23
When
for use,
warm
the bottle of
let the articles to
be mended
354
APPENDIX.
Collodion Cement.
Powdered
nitrate of potash Concentrated sulphuric acid
2 drachms.
3
"
grains.
Carded cotton
.10
the nitrate of potash with the acid in a porcelain capsule, and gradually add the cotton, and stir
for a
Mix
few minutes
all acid,
wash
pull
it
from
when
it
thoroughly in water free apart and dry by moderate
heat, taking care not to come too near the fire, as it is a species of gun-cotton ; dissolve it in a little rectified
sulphuric ether and a portion of alcohol, and it will form a strong adhesive cement, perfectly transparent and colorless.
India-rubier Cement for Leather,
India-rubber
....
. . .
.
.
etc.
2 drachms.
Chloroform Gum mastic
fl.
ozs.
\ ounce.
Shred the rubber and dissolve in the chloroform, the mastic in powder. Useful to join leather or rubber to leather, etc., and it will make
when add
leather water-proof.
Cement for Meerschaum, Marble, Alabaster,

"White of
.
. .
etc.
.4 eggs.
2 ounces.
Quicklime
Makes a
useful luting
etc.
when spread on muslin and
applied to joints,
Cement for Stone, "White sand

.
etc.
.
.4 ounces.
.
Litharge Linseed oil
i
q. s.
"
355
joints,
Made
becomes
into a soft putty, hard.
and put in the
soon
Cloux-Fumantis.
Under
sticks,
this
name aromatics
.
are
made
into small
and burnt to perfume apartments.
Powdered benzoin
santal
"
.2 ounces.
.
2 1|
1
" "
[olibanum
cascarilla
"
"
"
"
charcoal
nitre,
7
1
cinnamon, and cloves, each

.
Made
into three-inch sticks, with mucilage of
gum
tragacanth.
Carmine.
Cochineal (ground)
Salts of tartar
.1 pound.
.
.
'
Powdered alum
Fish glue
.
1J
\
\ ounce. u "
Water
.8 gallons.
Boil the cochineal with the salts of tartar for about twenty minutes, remove from the fire, and stir in the
After standing about an hour, the clear liquor is decanted into another boiler, and the isinglass added after being dissolved in about a quart of warm water; and when it boils, and the carmine
powdered alum.
coagulum, it is removed from the fire and stirred for about fifteen minutes, when the carmine will precipitate; when the liquor is decanted off, and The liquor still the precipitate dried on a filter. a good deal of color, and can be used to make retains rouge by coloring talc, or can be made into vinaigre rouge, and bottled.
rises in
356
APPENDIX.
Carthamus, or Rouge Vegetal.
which this fine rouge is obtained, two coloring principles. The yellow matter contains is first washed out by putting it into a bag and kneading it under water until no more color can be The flowers are then put into a cullender, extracted. and water in which carbonate of soda is dissolved poured slowly through them, until they become
Safflower, from
The liquor is then acidulated with citric when the fine coloring matter is precipitated acid, upon some finely levigated talc placed in the bottom of the copper. The color will be more or less brilliant according to the amount of talc used.
yellow.
Crinogen,
to
promote
.
the
Growth of the Beard.

.
Veal
fat
.1 pound.
.
.
Tincture of cantharides
vanilla
.
1 ounce. " 1
Oil of petit-grain
J drachm.
Chlorine Tooth-wash.
Chlorate of potash Tincture of myrrh

"
orris
.1 ounce.
.
1
\ 1
"
"
aquillabark
.
"
Orange-flower water
.12
An
excellent dentifrice
and mouth-wash.
Castillian Tooth-paste.
"White Castile soap (powdered) " Cuttle-fish bone

Precipitated chalk
"
2 ounces.
1 " "
5
q. s.
Honey
MISCELLANEOUS FOKMULAS.
Perfume with
oils
357
of lavender and cloves, and color red with liquid carmine.
Creme Neige.
Spermaceti "White wax Oil of benne Rose-water
Glycerine Extract of rose
.
.
(Snow Cream.)
. .
4 ounces.
2
2
"
.10
.
(ISTo.
.1 .1 drachm.
all irritations
A very pleasant
of the skin.
cosmetic cream for
Capuchin Powder,
to
destroy Lice on
.
Head
or
Body.
Powdered
"
cevadilla seed
.1
.
ounce.
" "
parsley tobacco
starch
1 1 1
"
.
. .
Compound Cliamomile Powder, to destroy Bedbugs. Powdered Persian or red chamomile

. .
.2 ounces,
.
black pepper Flowers of sulphur

.
.1
1 ounce.
Detersive Lotion for Cleansing the Hair.
Borax
Bicarbonate of soda
Camphor
Glycerine
.
.....
. . . .
1 drachm.
\ ounce. 1 quart. 2 ounces.
Rose-water Alcohol
Dissolve the camphor in the alcohol, and add to
358
APPENDIX.
the other ingredients previously mixed. and useful wash for the hair.
pleasant
Diamond Dust for
the
Hair.
"White smalts are well washed and rubbed into a

coarse powder in an iron mortar, and put into neat paper boxes holding about a quarter of an ounce.
Gold Dust for
the
Hair.
Florem leaf, such as is used in common gilding, is rubbed to a coarse powder in a Wedgwood mortar, and put into small paper boxes, and neatly labelled.
Silver
Dust for
the
is
Hair.
rubbed in a mortar, and finely divided, and put up in neat boxes holding about a drachm.
leaf or
White
Dutch metal
Disinfecting Segars.
the segars are filled, is saturated with an aromatic tincture similar to that
The tobacco with which
given for perfuming and flavoring segars in a former

chapter.
Liquid Drier for Varnish, Paints,

Sulphate of zinc Black oxide of manganese
.
etc.
.4 ounces.
.
.
Linseed
oil
.3 quarts. .1 gallon.
1 pound.
The
oil for
first two ingredients are to be boiled with the two hours, when the oil is poured oif clear, and
turpentine added.
Drier in Powder for Painty
Sulphate of zinc (desiccated)
etc.
.
359
Sugar of lead
Litharge
.
.
"
.
. .
4 ounces. " 4
and
.2 pounds.
it
Mixed and ground
into a fine powder,
dries
hardens paint very well.

JEJssence
of Soap or Shaving Liquid.

.
White shaving cream

Alcohol, 80
.
.4 ounces.
.
"
Liquor potassa, Rose-water

Oil of cassia "
TJ. S.
...
.
P.
.2 drachms. .8 ounces.
.10
.
drops.
bergamot
20
"
lye,
Dissolve the soap in the rose-water and potash
and add the alcohol in which the
oils are dissolved.
Evaporating Lotion for Headache.

Solution of acetate of
ammonia
1 ounce.
\
1
Sulphuric ether
Cologne water Orange-flower water

.
...
.
.
1|
"
Another Aromatic vinegar Tincture of camphor

Sulphuric ether Rose-water
.
.2 ounces.
.
\ J
.3
Elaidic Acid.
When
tained
;
oil
or oleic acid is treated with hyponitric
acid, a beautiful
white crystalline substance is obthat being well washed to free it from all
360
acid,
it
APPENDIX.
could be used by the perfumer in cerates, cold
etc.,
cream, cosmetics,
to great advantage.
Eye
Paint, or Koliol.
"When camphor is burnt, and the smoke condensed and collected, it can be formed into a paste, and used
as the Eastern ladies do, by applying to give a brilliant effect to the eyes.
it
to the eyelids
Eye
Citrine ointment
.
Salve.
1 drachm.
.
Spermaceti ointment
2 ounces.
Used
for all diseases of the eyelids.
Eye-water.
Acetate of zinc Acetic acid Camphor- water Rose-water

.
20 grains.
5 drops. 2 ounces. " 8
in the ophthal-
useful wash for inflamed eyes, and mia of infants or adults.
Eau
de Cologne.
(Cheap.)
Oil of bergamot, lemon, orange, rosemary, of each

.
.
Oil of cloves
Tincture of Alcohol
orris
.
... ....
.
.1 ounce.
1 drachm.
4 ounces.
3 pints.
.1 gallon.
Water
v
361
Elixir of Rose for the Teeth.
Tincture of rhatany
camphor
cochineal
.2 drachms, " .1 .2 "

.10
Otto of roses
Rose-water, triple
.6 ounces.
drops.
English Tooth Powder.
Prepared chalk Pumice, finely powdered

.
.4 ounces.
.
"
Camphor
J
\ drachm.
Oil of spearmint
Ethereal Aromatic Tincture.
(Stomachic and Anti-Spasmodic.)
Cinnamon, nutmegs, and cloves,

of each
. . . .
.2 drachms.
1
Yanilla Castor Alcohol

Sulphuric ether
"
I
....
.
12 ounces. 4
Macerate
for ten days.
Dose, a teaspoonful.
Essential Salt of Lemons for Removing Fruit Stains, Iron- Mold, etc., from Linen.
Oxalic acid
Cream of
tartar
| ounce. 1
Powder
is
separately and mix. To use, a small portion dissolved in warm water and applied, and the part
well
is
washed
in pure water.
362
APPENDIX.
*
Freckle Wash.
Sal
ammoniac
.
...
.
1 drachm. 1 ounce. " 15
Glycerine Rose-water
Apply night and morning with

Fly-powder
to
a fine sponge.
Destroy Flies.
Cobalt, black pepper, and sugar, of each

.
...
brown
1 ounce.
Fly-paper
Coarse paper is and sugar, and dried.
Destroy Flies. saturated with a solution of cobalt

to
Frcfoikincense.
Gum
"
olibanum benzoin
...
.
2 ounces.
\
\
"
"
"
myrrh
Prepared charcoal
"
Powdered together;
used
in the churches.
this is the formula for that
Ferruginous
Pomade for Darkening

.
the
Hair.
Veal fat Yellow wax Oil of benne

Sulphate of iron Pyrogallic acid
...
. .
1 pound. 4 ounces. " 8
Rose-water
Oil of cloves "
lavender
.....1 ... ....

.
.6
drachms.
u
ounce.
"
2 drachms.
Melt the
fat,
wax, and
oil
together,
and rub up the
sulphate of iron with a portion of the water and stir in; dissolve the pyrogallic acid with the rest of the water, and add lastly the perfumes.
363
To Cool the Frigorific or Freezing Mixture. Receivers in Distillation, etc. etc.

Muriate of ammonia.
Water of
Sulphate of soda.
These substances in coarse powder are kept separate, and when wanted equal parts are thrown separately into the refrigerator or
upon the
ice
in the
ice-cream freezer.
French Tooth Powder.
Sugar of milk Carbonate of magnesia
....
.
4 ounces.
1
J
Powdered pumice
Sulphate of quinine
Powdered
orris-root
J 2
Oil of peppermint cassia .
.1 drachm,
.
Furniture Polish.
Gum
"
shellac
....
.
1 ounce.
\
copal
Wood
naphtha Strong alcohol
4 12
"
This is for light-colored woods. If wanted for dark woods add a drachm of dragon's blood polish with an oiled rag.
;
Another for Varnished Furniture.
Beeswax
Linseed Alcohol
Dissolve the
oil
.1 ounce. .4 .5
heat.
wax
in the oil
by aid of
364
APPENDIX.
Furniture
Boiled linseed
oil
.
Oil.
.
.4 ounces.
.
Oil of lavender
Acetic acid Alcohol, 95
"
"
1|
If wanted dark, color with alkanet root.
Another for Renewing Furniture. Pale linseed oil ounces. " 4 Shellac varnish " 4 Wood naphtha Put on the furniture, and after an hour it is well rubbed to restore the polish, remove scratches, etc.
. .
.8
.
.
Furniture Cream.
Linseed
oil (pale)
.
.4 ounces.
.
Strong vinegar
alcohol
2
2
"
"
Gelee Cosmetique or Curling Fluid.
Carrageen moss Eau de Cologne Extract of millefleur

.
\ ounce. " 1 " 1 1 pint.
Water
The moss
is
swelled over night in the water, heated to dissolve, strained and perfumed, and colored red with liquid carmine, or yellow with tincture of saffron.
A very good
mixture for the
hair.
Glycerine Jelly for Chapped Hands.

St.
Vincent arrow-root
.
Water
.....
.
2 drachms.
J ounce. ^
\
Glycerine Tincture of saffron

.
drachm.
"
Eau de Cologne
Let the arrow-root be mixed with the water
fied
365
clari-
heat, when stir in the glycerine, color and perfume. It should be transparent, and is a very pleasant form for using glycerine.
by
Glove Cleaner.
Rectified benzine
Oil of lavender
.
.
.4 ounces.
i
"
A pleasant and
Gum
good
cleaner.
Glove Cleaner.
(French.)
.
tragacanth
Castile soap
.
White
| ounce. " 1 1 pint.
Rose-water
Tincture of
musk
.10
drops.
Dissolve the soap in the water, put the gurn in, and when swelled stir well to thoroughly mix, when strain and perfume. valuable cleaner, as the remain soft. gloves
Ginger Beer. Concentrated

essence
.
of
.
Jamaica ginger
2 ounces.
The juice and White sugar Water

.
rind of
. .
4 lemons.
1| gallons. 1 tablespoonful.
.2 pounds.
.
Yeast
....
.
.
To
when
be kept in a
it is
warm
strained
and bottled
place for about two days, if not wanted for pre-
sent use.
Green or Elder-leaf Ointment.
Lard
Suet
2 pounds.
1
. .
" "
Fresh elder leaves
360
APPENDIX.
Let the leaves be added to the melted grease, and stewed until they lose their color. Keep up the heat to evaporate the moisture, but do not let it boil. This
is
considered a cooling emollient for chafes, burns,
etc.
Glue from Rice Flour.
Mix rice flour with cold water, and boil gently till clear, when it will be found a very useful cement for
joining fine articles, pasting,
etc.
Liquid Glue.
Good glue
Muriatic acid
.
.
.
4 ounces.
i
.
"
Sulphate of zinc "Water
\ J pint.
Break up the glue, put it in the water, let it swell few hours, heat to dissolve, when add the acid and sulphate of zinc; keep it hot for some hours, frequently stirring, and it will remain liquid when cold.
for a
Mouth Glue.
Glue (best) Sugar
.
.
1 pound. "
Let the glue swell in about a pint of water for some hours, pour off the excess of water, heat to dissolve, add the sugar, and when sufficiently evaporated pour on a marble slab and cut into squares.
This
is a very handy article, mouth when wanted for use.
for
it is
dissolved in the
Gutta-percha Dressing.
Gutta-percha Chloroform
....
1 drachm. 1
fl.
ounce.
Spread upon muslin and applied to a wound form a water-proof dressing.
Gold-beater's SJcin for Plaster.
it
367
will
The finest baudrouches are stretched upon a board, and one side coated with a solution of Russia isinglass, and when dry cut into squares, and enveloped.
*
Hand Powder,
for Whitening
"
tlie
Hands.
4 ounces.
"White Castile soap (powdered)

Cuttle-fish bone
4
8 2
"
"
"
Blanched almonds
Orris-root
.
"
.
"
.
Oil of cloves "
lavender
J drachm. " 1
Used
as a soap powder,
it
has a great detersive and
softening effect.
Hair Powder.
Starch, in fine Orris-root
powder
.
1 pound. 1 ounce. drops.
Oil of rhodium
.10
Hair Cream.
(Creme de Noisettes.)
Oil of hazelnuts
....
. .
Spermaceti
1 pound. 4 ounces. 1
Jasmine
oil
from flowers
Drying Hair Wash for Moist Hair.

Cologne or lavender water Borax Rose- water
.
4 ounces.
J
.3
"
.
Tincture of cochineal
368
APPENDIX.
Horse- Radish Mouth Wash.
Horse-radish root
Boiling water Tincture of rhatany
.....1 .2
.
ounce.
1 pint.
drachms.
for
Horse-radish
sore
is
said to be a valuable
etc.
remedy
gums, toothache,
Horse-Radish Lotion for

Horse-radish root
Boiling water
.
the
.
Skin,
etc.
Borax
....2
. .
.1 ounce.
1 pint.
drachms.
In this form horse-radish can be used to advantage

for freckles, tan, etc.
Herbs and Flowers
(to Preserve).
Recent and fresh flowers and herbs, intended

distillation, can be
for
preserved for
a long
time,
by
packing them in a tight keg or barrel, with about one-fourth their weight of salt (well dried), placing a heavy cover on them to exclude the air, and keeping
them
in the cellar or other cool place.
Honey Water.
Rectified spirit 70 Extract of rose ]STo. 2
.
.
.5 pints.
.
" "
jasmine
Oil of lavender "
.
"
...
.
"
"
bergamot rosemary
cloves
.
2 drachms. " 2
1
1
"
"
"
thyme
Tincture of musk
"
.
.
369
.4 ounces.
.
Peru balsam
orris-root
2 8
" "
"
very fragrant toilet water or perfume for the handkerchief.
Honey of Roses.
.
(Confection.)
Eed-rose leaves (dried and powdered)

.
.4 ounces.
.
Clarified
honey
f pint.
Useful as a vehicle for
many
articles.
Honey Mouth Wash.

Eed-rose leaves (dried) Rose-water
.
.
Clarified
honey
...
.2 ounces. .8 .6
Immerse the rose-leaves in the water, and heat gently for two hours, when strain and add the honey. A very pleasant and useful wash for the mouth, gargle
for sore throat, etc.
Hungarian Hair Dye (in two Preparations'). No. 1, Mordant.

Hydrosulphate of ammonia Liquor of potassa, U. S. P. Eose-water
. .
. .
10
fl.
drachms.
"
.2
.
"
12 "
No.
2,
Dye.
.
Nitrate of silver (crystals).
2 drachms.
q. s.
Aqua ammonia
Eose-water 24
2J ounces.
370
This
is
APPENDIX.
a valuable hair dye, and gives a reliable and natural black or brown color ; if a brown color is
wanted, dilute No. 2 one-half.
Hair
Cotton-seed
oil
Oil.
.
(Cheap.)
.
Oil of bergamot " lemon
....
.
.
1 gallon.
4 drachms. " 2
1 1
"
"
cloves
"
"
In this hair oils are now made. This formula can be used for bear's oil or antique oil. Colored red with alkanet it can be called
rose hair
oil,
thyme manner most of the cheap

.
making some change
in the perfume.
etc.
lodinated Oil for Scalp Sores,
Iodine
1 drachm.
oil
.
Benne
Oil of
"
"
lemon almonds
fennel
.....1
.
pint.
2 drachms.
\
\
"
Carbolic acid
...
.
"
5 grains.
This will be found a very healing preparation for

all
diseases of the scalp.
Iodine Lotion.
Iodine
.
(Cosmetic.)
.
.
.10
.
grains.
Iodide of potash
20
"
Rose-water (triple)
etc. etc.
.1 pint.
A very serviceable lotion for pimples, pustules, itch,
Itch Ointment.
371
Spermaceti ointment
,2 ounces.
.
Almond
Salt
oil
.
.
.
"
Lac sulphur
......
.
"
J 1 drachm.
Oil of lemon, oil of almonds, and oil of neroli, of each .
10 drops.
A pleasant and effective remedy.

Isinglass Plaster.
(Court Plaster.)
This very useful article is made out by water-proofing the silk on one side with a solution of India rubber, in chloroform and tincture of benzoin, and then
coating the other side with a solution of the best isinglass, of two ounces to a pint of water ; two or three
coats of which are put on with a flat camel's-hair brush, letting each coat dry before the next is applied. The silk is of three colors white, pink, and black.
Indelible
Ink for Marking Linen.

. .
Nitrate of silver (crystal)
1 drachm.
grains.
Gum Arabic
Pyrogallic acid
,20 .10
Indigo
Distilled water
....
.
" 5 2 ounces.
Another that
will not corrode the

.
pen
\ drachm. 10 grains. 10 5 10 drachms.
Chloride of platinum
Sugar
Gum
Salts of tartar
.
...
Distilled water
372
APPENDIX.
Another
Gluten of wheat Acetic acid
Indigo Lamp black
| ounce.
5 grains.
" 10 4 ounces. 10 drops.
Water
Oil of cloves
English Black.
.
Aleppo
galls (bruised) Sulphate of iron
Arabic, powdered "Water
Gum
....
8 ounces. " 4 2
1
Creasote
10 drops.
This makes
Let the
galls be steeped in the water for about a
day before the iron and gum are added. a reliable black ink that will not fade.
Ink, Blue-black Fluid.
galls (good) Sulphate of iron
Aleppo
10 ounces.
3
"
"
Gum
Senegal Cloves (bruised)
2
.
Sulphate of indigo
Sugar
....
drachm.
1 ounce.
Water
Put the bruised
stir
1 gallon.
frequently for
the liquid,
galls and cloves in the water, and two days, strain, and press out all next put in the sulphate of iron, gum, and
sugar, stir frequently until all is dissolved, strain again and add the sulphate of indigo. This is a good,
permanent ink which
will also
copy
well.
MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS.Invisible Ink.
373
Chloride of cobalt
"
.5 grains.
.
nickle
.
Distilled water
...
.
"
1 pint.
This solution written on white paper will not be visible, but when heated will turn green, and again
disappear
when
cool.
Ink Powder.
Bruised galls Ground logwood Copperas White sugar Gum Arabic, powdered
.
...
. . .
.
2 pounds.
" \ 1
.2 ounces.
.
Mix
well together.
Two
ounces will make a pint
of good ink.
Juniper Tar Pomade.
Juniper tar (limpid)
.2 ounces.
8
.
Hard body Pomade of Peru balsam

Oil of lavender " lemon grass Tincture of musk
.
.....1
. .
1 drachm.
Juniper tar is a remedy for rheum, etc., of the scalp, and this of applying it.
all
is
eruptions, salt a pleasant mode
Italy dor for the Skin.
Glycerine
1 ounce.
\
.
Borax
Orange-flower water
.
.
1| pint.
374
APPENDIX.
Kaolin Cosmetic or White.
Kaolin
Corn starch
Honey-water
....
.
1 pound. " J 1 ounce.
The powder is made into a mass with water and moulded to suit the box intended for it, and when dry is smoothed off and packed with colored cotton.
f
Lavender Vinegar.
Oil of garden lavender (good) Acetic acid (from sugar) .
.
1 drachm.
1 ounce.
Rose-water
1 pint.
Agitate the oil with the acid several times for about a day, gradually add the rose-water and filter. Thus can be made the vinegar of almost all perfumes.
Lime
Juice Lotion.
.
Lemon
juice (fresh)
.4 ounces.
2 2
" " "
.
Glycerine Alcohol Rose- water, triple
1|
A very pleasant preparation for acne, freckles, itching,
and
irritation of the skin.
Lisbon Water.
Oil of Portugal " lemon
rose
.
...
.
.
1 ounce. "
\
J drachm.
"
neroli, petale
.
"
.
Alcohol, 80
.2 pints.
it is
Once a very celebrated perfume, and

ingly pleasant.
exceed-
MISCELLANEOUS FOKMULAS.
Extract of Oil of cedar Alcohol
the
375
Cedar of Lebanon.
.
Tincture of vanilla
Rose-water, triple
12 2
J ounce. "
" "
Laudanum
Pastils.
.
Gum
"
labdanum
benzoin
2| cones with mucilage of gum tragacanth, dried and burnt to perfume apartments.
.
Powdered
charcoal
1 ounce. " \ "
Made into
Lettuce Water.
(Cosmetic.)
.
.
Lettuce leaves, fresh Warm water

.
.
.4 pounds. .1 gallon.
Bruise the lettuce, and keep at a gentle heat for about three hours, when strain and add four ounces of alcohol to keep it. Used as a cosmetic and to
allay irritation.
Lip
Salve.
Butter of coco Oil of benne "White wax
.... ....
(Italian.)
.
2 ounces.
1
"
\
|
Powdered alum
Vermilion
1 drachm.
Lycopodium Powder. Lycopodium Oxide of zinc

.
...
.
1 ounce.
\
Starch
3
skin, to
For excoriations of the

sores, etc.
make new skin on
376
APPENDIX.
Lutes for Joints of Apparatuses,
etc.
useful lute for chemical apparatuses and distillation is made by mixing the white of egg with an
equal quantity of water and thickening with slaked lime it should be spread upon strips of muslin. It
;
soon hardens, and will stand a great heat.
Another
Liquid glue mixed with whiting and spread upon muslin is also a good luting for joints of stills, etc.
Another Linseed meal mixed with lime-water to the consistence of putty or thick paste
is
a useful lute.
May -dew
Eed
Borax
Milk for
.
the
.
rose leaves
Complexion. ounces. "

.
.2
.
.
Glycerine Tincture of benzoin

. .
\ 1
"
"
Rose-water, triple
1| pints.
Milk of Roses.
White
soft soap
.
Blanched almonds
Rose-water, triple Liquid carmine
.
.2 .1 pint.
.10
\ ounce. "
drops.
Mole
Diachylon plaster
Tartar emetic
.
Salve.
.
.
.1 drachm.
5 drops.
J ounce.
Croton
oil
This plaster should be spread the exact size of the mole, and kept on until it suppurates, then remove and let heal ; it may leave a slight scar.
MISCELLANEOUS FOIIMULAS.
Mosquito Lotion for Mosquito Bites,
etc.
377
Aqua ammonia
Glycerine Kose-water
.
...
.
1 ounce.
\
"
Musk Root
is
or Samlul.
This root, which is imported from the East Indies, often used as a perfume in essences and sachet
;
powders
degree.
in the latter it is particularly useful, as it supplies bulk, and has the odor of musk in a great
Mustard Essence.
Black mustard seed Acetic acid
Spirits of camphor Oil of rosemary
.....8
.
.
.2 ounces.
2
.1
for
Let the seeds macerate with the acid
two or
three days ; strain and add the other ingredients. useful embrocation in rheumatism, sprains, etc.
Myrrh Water.
Gum
"
myrrh Arabic Alcohol
....
Mouth Wash.
2 drachms.
l'
\ ounce.
Water
7J
"
A mouth wash and gargle.

Marine Cement, Water-proof.
India-rubber
Shellac
.
.
.....2
.
.
1 ounce.
Naphtha
"
378
APPENDIX.
Myrtle Pomade.
Lard
Suet
(purified)
Oil of pimento
"
bergamot
neroli
Lacquer for Foil, Metal,
Gum
"
"
shellac
elemi
3 pints. By having the alcoholic solutions of the different aniline colors, this lacquer can be colored any color
desired.
sandarach Alcohol, 90
.... .... ....

. . . .
... .3 .... ....6

1
.
pounds. "
"
2 drachms.
u
etc.
3 ounces. "
|
1
"
and
It is put on with a flat camel's hair brush, the article warmed sufficiently to set it.
Palma-Eosa Pomade.
Lard
Suet
(purified)
"
.... ....
.
3 pounds.
1 a
\ ounce.
Oil of ginger grass
lemon
geranium
"
.2 drachms, .2
.
cloves
"
Color light green.
Nipple Wash.
Nitrate of lead
.
J drachm.
Nitrous ether
.
"
.
.
.
\ \ \
Glycerine Tincture of rhatany Eose-water .

.
3|
"
off the
Care should be taken to thoroughly wash

nipples before nursing.
Peach Water.
Alcohol, 80 Tincture of Tolu
379
.....2
.
2 pints. ounces.
Extract of jasmine,
Oil of
ISTo.
.4
4
1 drachm.
orange-flower, 'No. 2.
almonds (essential)
...
A very pleasant toilet water.

Pearls of JRoses, or Perfumed Beads.
Red
rose leaves, powdered
Carmine
Tincture of
musk
.1
.
4 ounces. 20 grains. drachm.

q.
s.
Mucilage of
gum
tragacanth
Made
as beads
into spheres, perforated

;
and
dried,
and strung
carefully pretty and of nice perfume any other odor desired.
when
made and
;
polished they are they can also be made of
Polish for Shoes and Leather.
Gum
Beer
tragacanth
.
.
.2 ounces.
.
Isinglass
......
.
Glycerine Extract of logwood
Powdered
Copperas
galls
.
.2 .....2
.
.
1 gallon. 1 pound.
ounces.
Steep the logwood, galls, and copperas in the beer for some days; add the glycerine to prevent its getting too sour; strain and dissolve the gum and isinglass in the mixture, and if necessary strain again.
380
APPENDIX.
Perfume (cheap) for Pomade or Hair
Oil of bergamot
. .
Oil.
lemon
" " cloves
4 ounces. 2
1
"
thyme
4 ounces.
.
Another
Oil of orange
"
rosemary pimento
2
1
"
"
petit-grain
Another
Oil of lemon
4 ounces.
1
thyme lemon grass

"
"
2
i
2
cloves
Another
Oil of orange
4 ounces.
.
caraway
"
cassia
ginger grass
2
1
Another
Oil of bergamot
4 ounces.
2
1
"
lavender
" "
cloves
neroli
" "
Populeum Pomade,
Poplar buds
.
or Ointment for Piles.

.
Lard
" Honey
4 ounces. " 12
2
"
Suet
4
orris
" "
Powdered
381
Powder for
Powdered alum
"
rice
.
Perspiring Feet.
.
1 ounce.
orris-root
.
.2
.
"
Powder for Fumigation. Powdered olibanum, cascarilla,

benzoin, cloves, cinnamon, of
each
.1 ounce.
or hot shovel to
Mixed together and burnt on stove

perfume apartments.
Parchment Paper.
Take heavy white printing paper and immerse a

few seconds in a solution of sulphuric acid 6 ounces, water 1 ounce, and wash it in running water to free it from acid. Useful for tying over bottles and jars.
Preventive Lotion.
Carbonate of potash
.2 drachms.
.15
grains.
Tannin Eose-water Liquid carmine

.
....
.
. .
1 pint.
drops.
.10
Pliosphated Tooth Powder.
Phosphate of soda Prepared chalk

.
.1 ounce.
.12
2
J
.
Powdered
"
orris
...
.
. .
myrrh Bole Armenia
1J
"
382
APPENDIX.
Rliatany Tooth Paste.
Powdered rhatany myrrh

"
orris
.
.2 ounces.
"
.
"
.
i
.
Prepared chalk
3
q. s.
"
Honey
Razor
Paste.
Levigated emery, jewellers' rouge, spermaceti ointment, of each

.
1 ounce.
Rubbed
into the leather of the strop.
Ratafia of Fruit.
Fruit syrup (any kind)
.
Aromatic syrup
Rectified spirit
.2 pints. .1
.
Color to
suit.
Rasma, Turkish.
Orpiment Quicklime
Starch
.
1 ounce. " "
A very quick
used with care.
depilatory but poisonous, and to be
Rancid
Butter, to
Remedy.
with fresh milk for some time, and then in cold water butter is sometimes wanted as a vehicle for perfumes and drugs.
it
;
Knead
Sealing-wax, JRed.
Shellac
383
No.
1.
Venice turpentine (true)

Vermilion
Another.
.
1 pound. 8 ounces. " 8
Bed, No. 2
yellow
1 pound.
.Rosin, fine
Shellac
"
i
.
Venice turpentine Vermilion

Another.
3 ounces.
Black
Colophony Venice turpentine

Shellac
.....
. . .
. .
4 ounces.
1 pound. 3 U
q. s.
Lampblack
Shampoo Liquor. Carbonate of ammonia

soda
. .
J ounce,
"
.
J | pint. a 1
Rum
"Water
.....
Stye Lotion.
.
Camphor water
Muriate of morphia
Styptic
to
.....2
.
1 ounce.
grains,
etc.
Stop
the
Bleeding of Wounds,
Powdered alum,
tannin, charcoal . . in fine powder, of each
1 ounce.
384
APPENDIX.
Tetter Ointment.
Citrine ointment
Spermaceti ointment
Carbolic acid
2 drachms. 2 ounces. 5 grains.

\ drachm. 10 drops.
Balsam of Peru Oil of lemon
Toothache Drops.
Hoffmann's anodyne Oil of peppermint Sulphate of morphia
ounce. "
.
10 grains.
Tricophalon Pomade.
Lard Yeal
fat
....
.
1 pound.
"
White wax
Oil of benne "
4 ounces. " 4
1
1
1
geranium verbena
cloves
"
u
Varnish for Artists.
Gum
"
mastic, in
powder
.
4 ounces.
2 4
8
.
copal (selected)
glass Pale linseed oil
Ground
"
"
Rectified spirits of turpentine
\\ pint.
and glass in a glass flask or copper vessel, heated by sand-bath, and stirred till dissolved. The turpentine is added while cooling the glass is used to facilitate the solution of the gums, and prevent them adhering to the bottom.
are put with the oil
;
The gums
r
385
*
Varnish for Maps, Prints,
etc.
.
Gum
"
"
mastic
2^ ounces.
1
sandrac
"
camphor
Alcohol, 95
....
.
.
i 8
"
Another
for (ditto)
. .
Balsam of Canada
.1 ounce. .2
is
The paper should be

glass,
sized with a solution of isinapplied.
and dried before the varnish
Varnish or Lacquer for Gilt Wares.
Gum
"
shellac
2 ounces.
1
1 "
gamboge
.
Dragon's blood
Saffron
.1
etc.
drachm.
Alcohol
.1 pint.
Varnish for Waxed Tables,
Beeswax
Colophony Gum demar
.
.2 ounces.
.
..
.1 .1 pint.
copal
it
This takes a fine polish with rubbing.
To
facilitate the solution of

fire
gum
can be
in a cullender, and suffered to drop into water, whence it is so finely divided that it will easily dissolve in turpentine, etc.
melted before a hot
Gum
shellac
will
also dissolve
in spirits
much
easier if suffered to swell in ether a few hours.
25
386
APPENDIX.
Wart Pomade.
Soap cerate
1 ounce.
.
.
Powdered savin
Spread on leather the
verdigris
1 drachm. " 1
size of the wart,

if
and keep on
over night, and repeated
necessary.
Wig
Paste
to
.
Fasten
.
the
.
Wig
.
.
to the
Head.
Isinglass
Rose-water
Tincture of benzoin
"White turpentine Alcohol
.1 ounce. .8 .2
.
2 4
"
"
The
isinglass
is
turpentine in the alcohol

solutions are mixed.
dissolved in the rose-water, the and tincture, when the two
Vegetable Tincture for
Barkening
. .
.
the
Hair.
"
Green walnut hulls Claret wine

.
.4 ounces.
.
This tincture has been long -in use as a dye for the
hair, and, if carefully used, it is
good.
Omitted on page 77
Tincture of Orris.
Orris root in coarse powder
.
Alcohol
"Water
2 pounds. 7 pints.
1
"
alcohol
Put the
root with the water and
two pints
in a displacer,
and pour
in
by degrees the balance of
the alcohol.
INDEX.
Absinthe, 331 Absorption and maceration, 37 Acacia, extrait d', 82
d', 160 perfumery in, 32 Alembic, 64, 65 Alembics, glass, 70
pomade
Anotta coloring for butter, 346 Antique oils, 177, 178 coloring of, 180 Antiseptic soap, 344
Apartments, perfuming, 141 Apple brandy, 328 extract of, 237 Apricot, extract of, 237 Aqua ornatus, 148 Arabia, perfumery in, 23, 24 Arabs in Spain, 29
Archil, tincture of, 73 Areca nut tooth paste, 344
Africa,
Algeria, otto of rose
of,
Alhambra, bouquet Alkaline bath, 346
d',
35 83
Alkanet, tincture of, 73 Allspice, 45 Almond lotion, 143 powder for the hands, 343
soap, perfume for, 279
Almonds, 45
extract
oil of,
of,
bitter,
237 83
226
Alum
soap, 343
Amalgams for filling teeth, 345 Amande amar, extrait, 82

amere, 191
Aromatic and medicated baths, 346348 bath, 346 candles, 344 cordial, 334 herb bitters, 330 oil of flowers, 182 opiate masticatory pastils, 216 spirits of ammonia, 132
tincture, 361
Amandine, 143
tooth paste, 209
Amber
gloss, Brazilian, 188 lavender water, 124 Ambergris, 46 or ambrosial soap, 290 tincture of, 72
powder, 206
Arome du bouche, 217

Arrack, imitation, 345 Aspasia, bouquet d', 83 Assyrians, use of perfumery by, 24 Auberpine, extract of, 83 Augia sinensis, 345 Australia, perfumery in, 32
wine, 344
Ambre, extrait
huile &
1',
d',
84
178
Ambrette, 46
extrait d', 83 tincture of, 72
Balm, 46
Balsam of honey, 145

of,
Ambrosial soap, 290 Ammonia, aromatic spirits

succinated spirits
of,
132
132
Ammoniated Cologne water, 132

toilet waters, 117-133 hair tonic, 188
and
Amour, bouquet
cordial, 331
oil of,
d',
84
Aniline colors for soap, 275 Aniseed, 46
"
of life, 329 of Peru, 46 tincture of, 76 of Tolu, 47, 60 tincture of, 76 Balsamique, pomade, 161 Banana, extract of, 237
226
syrup, 313 Bandoline, 191, 192 a la rose, 191 Baths, aromatic and medicated, 346-
Anisette, huile
d', 331 Annealing glass vessels, 345
348
Baume
de miel, 145
388
Baume
de
vie,
INDEX.
Cachous
329
des dames, Cristiani's, 218
of, for perfumes and 229 Calledermic powder for whitening the skin, 352 Camphor balls, 150 balsam for the teeth, 211
Baume's hydrometer, 253

Bay, 47
California, climate
oils,
rum, 128
hair tonic, 190 Beads, perfumed, 139 Bear's grease, crystalline, 172 pomade, 161 oil, l&l Bedbug poison, 357 Benzoin, 47
ice,
with glycerine, 148
lotion, 144 for the hair, 190
Camphorated bath, 347

dentifrice, 2U5
pomade, 158, 161 soap, 289

tincture
of,
73
Bergamot, 47
extract
oil of,
of,
85
220
Beurre de cacao, pomade, 161 Bigarrade, 47 Birds and animals for preserving, 344 Bismuth dye, 195, 196 Bitter almonds, extract of, 82
Bitters, herb.
Candies, colors for, 309 Candles, aromatic, 344 Caunella, huile de, 331 Cannes, perfumes of, 34, 35 Cantharides, tincture of, 74 Caprice de la mode, 87
Capuchin powder, 357 Caraway, 48
Cardamom, 48
Carmine, 355 Caroline, bouquet de, 86 Carthamus, 3oo Cascarilla, 48 Cashmere nosegay, 87 Cassia, 48 Cassie, 48 extract of, 79, 82 pomade, 160 Cassolettes, 138 Castile soap, 248 from cotton- seed oil, 281-280 Castillian tooth paste, 356 Castor oil and glycerine pomade, 102 Catawba syrup, 314 Cathairon, Cristiani's, 186 Catharine de Mediuis, 29 Catheters, 349 Cedar, 49 of Lebanon, extract of, 86
tincture of, 73 Cedrat, 49 Celery, extract of, 238
330
of,
wine, 330 Blackberry, extract syrup, 313 wine, 323
237
Blacking, 348 Blanc de perle, 151 Blonde hair dyes, 199, 200 liquid for bleaching the hair, 348 Bloom of roses, 151 Body, green, 159
red, 159
yellow, 159 Bois de santal, extrait du, 108 Bosphorus bouquet, 85 \ Bougies, 349
Bouquets, 77-116 Bouquet sachet, 135 soap, 290-305 Brandy, apple, 328 cognac, 328
Brazilian
+#
188
amber
gloss,
bouquet, 84 hair oil, 182

Breath, 203-220 Brilliantine for the hair, 352
Cement, collodion, 354 India-rubber, 354

for china, glass, etc.,
for
meerschaum,
354
etc.,
353 354
Bronzing liquid lor iron, 349 Brown Windsor soap, 289 Brushes of root for the teeth, 349
Bully (De), vinaigre aromatique, 129 arid corn plasters, 350, 351 Burgundy wine, 325
for stone,
Centennial bouquet, 86 Cerate for chapped hands, 352 Chamomile powder, 357
Bunion
Champagne, 325
cider,
326
Cacao, pomade au beurre de, 161 Oachou aromntisd, Cristiani'H, 216 Cachous, aromatic, for the breath, 216-
218
lotion for, 352 Charcoal tooth paste, 208 powder, 205, 206 Chemicals used in soap manufacture, 251
Chapped hands,
INDEX.
Cherry, extract syrup, 313
of,
389
238
Chilblain lotion, 851 ointment, 351 China, odors of, 35
Chinese card rouge, 152 hair oil, 182 skin powder, 155
use of perfumery by, 28 varnish, 345
Chlorine pastils, 205 tooth wash, 356 Chypre*. extrait de, 87 Cider, 327
champagne, 320 Cinnamon, extract of, 238

cordial, 331
oil of,
22G
tincture of, 73 Cire a moustache, 174

Citronella, 49 Civet, 49 tincture of, 74
Claret wine, 326 Cloux-fumantis, 355 Clove cordial, 331 pink, extract of, 102
Cloves, 49 extract
oil of, of,
Corn solvent, 351 Cosmetic almond powder, 154 cream of lilies, 145 gloves, 155 Cosmetics, 142 or stick pomatums, 175 preparation of, 157 Cosmopolitan bouquet, 88 Cotton-seed oil, 185, 250 Castile soap from, 281-286 Cowslip pomade, 162 Cream syrup, 316 Creme neige, 357 Crepon rouge, 152 Crinogen for the beard, 356 Cristiani's cachou aromatise. 216 camphor ice with glycerine, 148 chemical cathairon, 186 cococydonia, 186 cold cream, 146 Cologne essence, 120 cosmetic cream of lilies, 145 dental pastils, 214 detergent tooth-wash, 212 eau de Cologne, 120
'
238
Florida water, 121 ladies' cachous, 218 masticatory pastils, 215 odontine paste, 210
226
Club-moss powder, 154

Cochineal, tincture of, 74 Cocoa, extract of, 238
poudre dentifrice hygienique, 206 pyrosmia, 140 rose tooth powder. 204
shampoo
lotion, 191
Cocoa-nut
248 soap, 274

oil,
to saponify, 275 Cococydonia, Cristiaui's, 186 Coction, 271, 272
Crystal pomade, 163 Crystalline bear's grease, 172 pomade, 162 Cucumber cream, 147
lotion,
144
Coffee, extract of,
238
syrup, 314 Cognac brandy, 328
Culture of flowers for perfumes, 33 Curacoa cordial, 332
Cold cream, 146

of violets, 147 process, toilet soaps by, 276-281 Collodion cement, 354
Curling Currant
fluid, 191,
364
318 Cutter, soap, 267

jelly,
Cologne, eau de, 41 oil, 120 vinegar, 129

water, 117, 119, 120
Cypre, sachet au, 134 Cypress, bouquet. 87 Cypress, sachet, 134 Cytheria, bouquet, 88
Damask
rose, extract of,
88
ammoniated, 132 cheap, 360

Coloring of antique oils, 180 Colornerus, 196 Colors for candies, 309
toilet soaps, -286-293 Coral hair oil, 182 tooth paste, 208
Dames, bouquet
des,
88
Dental pastils, Cri^tiani's, 214

Dentifrices, 203, 214 Depilatories, 193-202 Depilatory liquid, 201
Compounding
Cordials, 331-335
Coriander, 49
Corn plasters, 350, 351
pomade, 202 Detergent tooth powder, 205 tooth-wash, 212 Detersive lotion, 357 toilet soap, 343 Diamond dust for the hair, 358
390
Dill,
INDEX.
50
Essential oils
Disinfecting segars, 358 Distillation, 821
by steam, 69
discovery of, 26 instruments for 64 Distilled waters and essences, 230-235 of rose and orange-flower from
Distilling flowers
commercial adulterations of, 225 extracting, 221 'odors of, 222 physical properties of, 223
quantities yielded by various plants, 228 Eukesis, or essence of soap, 149
Drier in
France and Italy, 232 and plants, 36 powder, for paint, etc., 359
Euosmia, 89
Expression, process of, 37 Extract, cedar of Lebanon, 375 of almonds, 237
apple, 237 apricot, 237
liquid for varnish, paints, etc.,
358
Eau Athenian, 189

botot, 211
banana, 237
blackberry, 237
celery,
fleur, 121
d'ange, 121 de beaute, 121
238
de de de de de
de de de de de de de de
bouquet de
cherry, 238
Cologne, 117, 119, 120 fee, 122
grand duchesse, 122 lavand, 124

nmbre, 124 132 miel, 125 millefleur, 125 mousseliue, 126
luce,
cinnamon, 238 cloves, 238 cocoa, 238 coffee, 238 ginger, 239
jargonelle pear, 239
lemon, 239 nutmegs, 239 orange, 239

flowers,
Komnin, 125
sultana, 126
vanilla, 127 violette de Panne,
240
127
hygienique, 126 lustrul, 187 vulneraire, 127

Eglantine, 50 extract of, 89
peach, 240 pineapple, 240 plums, 240 raspberry, 241

rose,
240
strawberry, 241 vanilla, 241

Extracts, 77-116
Egypt, perfumery in, 23, 24 Egyptian hair-dye, 195 Elaidic acid, 359 Elder, 50 flowers emulsion, 144 soap, 306
Eyebrow
pencil,
202
Eye-paint, 360
-salve,
360
-water, 360
365 Elixir odontalgique, 212

-leaf ointment,
Fairy bouquet, 91 water, 122
of rose, 361 Emil blanc, 149
Emollient bath, 347 Enamel, white, 149

Eufleurage, 38 England, odors
Fard bleu, 156 noir, 156 Fashion bouquet, 87 Fats and oils, 244
Fde, bouquet de, 91 Fennel, 50
35 30 Epilatoire, poudre, 201 Erasive soap for grease spots, 307 Erin, flowers of, 90 Essence bouquet, H5
of,
perfumery
in,
Fermentation, 321 Ferruginous pomade, 362 Fixature or bandoline, 192 Flag, 50

Flavoring extracts and fruit flavors,
235-241
Flavors and perfumes for segars and tobacco, 335-339 Fleur d'Orange, extrait de, 93 de Pesche, extrait de la, 104
d'absinthe, 831 of soap, 149, 359 Essential oils, 80 and their tests, 220-230
INDEX.
Fleurs de Mai, extrait des, 99
d'ltalie, extrait des,
331
92
Glycerine, 44, 192, 244 and lime-juice hair tonic, 188
des champs, extrait des, 92 Floating soaps, 294, 295 Flora, bouquet de, 91 Florentine bouquet, 91 Florentine hair oil, 183 Florida, climate of, for perfumes and
balm, 146 cream, 147 hair oil, 183 hair tonic, 189 jelly, 364
jelly for the skin,
155
229 water, 122 Flower pomade, 160 Flowers, 33 aromatic oil" of, 182
oils,
pomade, 162 soap, 287 Glyceryle, 244

Gold-beater's skin, 367 dust for the hair, 358 Golden oil, 183
for perfumery, culture of, 33 of Erin, 90 statistics of the south of France, 39
Grasse, Cannes, and'Nice, flower statistics of,
39
for
Fly powder and paper, 362 Fragrance of plants, what due Frambois, ratafia de, 333
to,
36
perfumes of, 34 Grease from clothes, erasive soap

removing, 307 Grecian golden oil,' 183 Greek incense, 89 Greeks, use of perfumery by, 24, 25 Green body, 159
Frames
for soaps,
256-259
France, perfumery in, 20, 29, 31 perfumes of, 34 Frangipane, sachet a la, 135
extrait de, 90
Gums, 203-220
Gutta-percha dressing, 366
Frankincense, 362 Freckle wash, 362 Freezing mixture, 363 French flower oils, 177 flower pomade, 160 Revolution, 31 Fruit acid, 319
flavors,
jellies,
Gypsy nosegay, 94
Hair color restorer, 195 cream, 367 dye, Hungarian, 369
dyeing, 193 dyes and depilatories, 193-202 liquid for bleaching, 348 lotion for, 357 oil, 370 oils and hair tonics, 177-193 powder, 367 tonics, 185-192 wash, 367 Hazelnut oil, 184 Headache, lotion for, 359 Hedyosmia, 94 water, 123 Heliotrope, 51 extrait au, 94 pomade, 163 sachet, 135 water, 123 Henry's vinegar, 130 Herbs and flowers, to preserve, 368 History of perfumes, 23 Holland gin, 329 Honey balsam, 145 moon bouquet, 95 mouth wash, 369 of roses, 369 sonp, 287 water, 125, 368
235-241 317, 318

pastils, 139,
Fumigating
140
to
wafers, 140
Furnace with hot water mades, etc., 71 Furniture cream, 364 oil, 364 polish, 363
melt po-
Gamboge, tincture of, 74 Garden lavender, extract

Geranium, 50
extract
of,
of,
98
93
pomade, 163
sachet, 135 water, 123
German vegetable
Ginger
327 beer, 365 cordial, 332
ale,
hair dye, 199
extract
of,
239
grass, 50
syrup, 316 Gin, Holland, 329 Glass alembics, 70
Glove cleaner, 305 cosmetic, 155 Glue, 366
Honeysuckle, 51 extract of, 95
392
INDEX.
Japan lacker, 345 perfumery in, 29
Jasmine, 51
extract
of,
Hongroise, pomade, 173 Horse-radish lotion, 868 mouth wash, 368 Hot water furnace, 71 Hovenia, 51 extract of, 95 Huile a 1'ambre, 178 antique a la fleur d'oranger, 179 a la heliotrope, 179 a la rose, 180 a la tuberose, 1 80 a la violette, 180
79
extrait au, 96 pomade au, 164 Jellies, fruit, 317, 318 Jews, use of perfumer} by, 24
7
Jockey club bouquet, 96

Jonquil, 51 extrait a
la,
96
au bouquet, 178 au jasmine, 179 au mille-fleur, 179

d'auisette, 331
pomade, 164 Juniper tar pomade, 373

Kaolin cosmetic, 374 Kalyder, 373
Kettles for soap, 265 Kissengen water, 319
de de de de
cannella, 331 mintbe, 332 noisettes, 184
noyau, 333 d'oeilett, 331 de the", 182 hygienique, 181

philocome, 181
Kiss-me-quick, 97 Kohal, 360
Labdanum
pastils,
375
Laboratories, 62 Lacker, Japan, 345
Hungarian bair dye, 369 Hungary water, 41, 124 Hyacinth, extract of, 96 pomade, 164 Hydrometer, Baume"'s, 253
Hygienic
oils,
Lacquer for
Lard, 250 Laurel, 51
foil,
378
Lait virginal, 146
Lavender, 52
of, 98 226 pomade, 164 vinegar, 374 water, 124 Lead dye, 194
177
d',
extract
oil of,
Imperatrice, bouquet Indelible inks, 371

Indes, bouquet d', 93 India, odors of, 35
90
perfumes in, 27 rubber cement, 354

varnish, 3-30
Indian hair dye, 194 oil, 183
Leather, perfumed, 141 Lemon, 52 extract of, 239 grassy 52

syrup, 313 Lemons, essential
salt of, 361
nosegay, 93 Indians, American, 32 Ink, invisible, 373 Inks, 372, 373 Instruments for distillation, 64 lodinated oil, 370 Iodine lotions, 370
Iris, 51,
Lettuce soap, 291 water, 375 Lilac, 53
56
Isinglass plaster, 371 Italian hair dye, 198
97 cosmetic cream of, 145 Lily, 53 of the valley, extract of, 98 white or pearl powder, 152 white pond, pomade, 172
Lilas, extrait de,
Lilies,
nosegay, 92
violet water,
Italy,
Lime juice
127
Limette, 53
lotion,
1
374
perfumes of, 34, 35 perfumery in, 29, 31 Itch, ointment for, 353, 371
Jaciuthe, extrait a
la,
pomade,
65
of
Linn9eus, division classes by, 40 Lip balm, 156

salve,
perfumes
into
96
375
pomade a
la,
164
Jamaica rum, 329 Japanese hair oil, 184
Liquid rouge, 151 Liquidation or cleaning of soap, 271 Liquors and cordials, 331-335
INDEX.
Liquors
cordials, domestic wines,
393
for soap,
Minor implements
320-335
Mint, 54
260
Lisbon water, 374

Livingstone) Dr., 32
London, perfumery manufacture

41
of, 40,
Lotion for chapped hands, 352 for headache, 359

for scurf, 352
preventive, 381 Louis XIV., 30 Lozenges, 219 Lustral. eau, 187 Lutes for joints of apparatus, 376 Lycopodium powder, 154 water, 375 Lyes, 246
Macassar oil, 184 pomade, 165 Mace, 53 Machinery for milling and moulding soaps, 301-304
Magnolia, 53
extract
of,
98
sachet, 136
Mahomet, 27 Malaga wine, 326

Manipulation of toilet sonps, 269-27H Marechale, bouquet de, 101 Margarine, 244 Marine cement, 377 Marjoram, 53 Marrow pomade, 166 Marseilles soaps, 242 Marshmallow soap, 287, 305 Masceration and absorption, 37 and absorption in Grasse, Cannes, and Nice, 39 Masticatory pastils, Cristiani's, 215 Materials used in perfumery, 45 May-dew milk, 376 Mayflower, extract of, 99 pomade, 165 Mead, 328 Meadow-sweet, 53 extract of, 100 Medicated and aromatic baths, 346-348 Meen fun, 155 Melissa, 54 Mignonette, 54 extract of, 107 Milk bath, 347 of roses, 376 Mille-fleur pomade, 166 sachet, 136 soap, 292 Mille-fleurs, bouquet de, 99 Milling and moulding toilet soaps, 300308
cordial, 332 Minthe, huile de, 332 Mirbane, 54 Moelle de bcenf, philocome, 175 Mole salve, 376 Montague, Lady Mary W., 27 Mosquito lotion, 377 Moss rose, extract of, 100 Mottled Castile soap, 284 Moulding and milling toilet soaps, 300308 Moulds, soap, 267 Mousseline, philocome a la, 174 Moustache, pomade for, 173 wax, 174 Mouth aromatic, 217 Muse, extrait de, 100 Musk, 55 extract, 100 pomade, 166 root, 377 sachet, 136 seed, 55 soap, 291 tincture of, 74 Mustard essence, 377 Myrrh, 54 tincture of/ 74 water, 377 Myrtle, 54 blossom pomade, 166 pomade, 378
Narcissus, 55 extract of, 101
pomade, 167
Neroli, 55
pomade, 167
New-mown
hay, extract
of,
101
sachet, 136 Nice, perfumes of, 34, 35 Night-blooming cereus, extract
of,
102
Nineveh and Babylon, 25 Nipple wash, 378 Nismes, perfumery of, 35 Noyau cordial, 333 huile de, 333 Nutmeg, 56 extract of, 239 Nymph floating soap, 295
Oatmeal soap, 306 Odalisque, bouquet d', 103 Odontine paste, 210
Odors, different countries from which
derived, 34, 35 extracting, 36 of essential oils, 222
394
Odors
of plants, 35 (Eillet, extrait d', 102 huile d', 331 Oil of almonds, 226 of aniseed, 226 of bergamot, 226
INDEX.
Paris, perfumery, manufacture of, 40, 41
Pastilles, 139 for the teeth,
of cinnamon, 226 of cloves, 226

of of of of of of of
flowers, aromatic, 182
lavender, 226
palm, 57
roses,
tea,
226
226 182 thyme, 228 Oils and fats, 244 and greases, advantages of combisassafrass,
mode
essential,
nation of different, 2-31 of working, 247
214 fumantes, 139, 140 masticatory, 215, 216 Patchouly, 57 extract of, 104 sachet, 137 tincture of, 75 Pea, sweet, 57 Peach blossom, extract of, 104 extract of, 240 syrup, 313 water, 379 Pear, extract of jargonelle, 239 Pearl powder, 152 white, 151 Pearls of roses, 379 Peau d'Espagne, 141
masticatory 215 Pencil, eyebrow, 252 Perfect love cordial, 333 Perfumed bath, 347 beads, 379 beds, 139
tinni's,
Pelletory
pastils,
Cris-
80
their tests,
of,
220-230 225 quantity yielded by various plants, 228 volatile, solubility of. 224 Ointment for barber's itch, 353 Oleine, 244 Oleophane, 296 Olibanum, 56 Olive oil, soaps of, 248 Opal dentaline, 211 yiat* totk-pst, 210 tooth-wash, 213
combinations
and
leather, 141
Perfumer's
art,
19
growth of the industry, 18 materials used in, 45

Perfumes, division of into classes, 40 for pomade or hair oil, cheap, 380 for segars and tobacco, 335-339 for soaps, 252 history of, 23 not injurious to health, 18 properties of, 34 use of, 17 Perfuming apartments, 141 Persia, perfumery in, 23 Peru, balsam of, 46 tincture of, 76 Peruvian tooth paste, 209 powder, 207 Petit-grain, 57 Phenolin pomade, 173 Philocome a la mousseline, 174 moelle de boeuf, 175 pomades, 168, 174 Phosplmtic tooth powder, 381 Piles, ointment for, 380 Pimento, 45 Pineapple, extract of, 240 cider, 328 eordial, 333 syrup, 313 Pink, 57 saucers, 152 Pistachio nut cream or lotion, 148
ppfttx,
xtratt
tf,
It3
Orange, 56 blossom extract, 93 extract of, 239 -flower cordial, 332 extract, 79 pomade, 167
flowers, extract of,
240
syrup, 314 Oriental cream, 167

drops, 103
styptic,
213
water, 148
Orris, 56 tincture of, 386 Otto of rose, 35, 39
Paints for the face, 151
Palm Palm
oil, 57, 249 soap, 272
half,
280
with rosin, 273
Palma-rosa pomade, 108, 378 L'almatine, 244 Parchment paper, 381
INDEX.
Plants, fragrance of, what due to, 36 Plums, extract of, 240 Pois de senteur, extrait du, 108 Polish for shoes, 379 Pomade a la rose, 170
395
Rene, 30 Reseda, extrait de, 107 Restorer, hair color, 195 Retorts, 70
blonde, 200
divine, 150 for moustache, 173
Rhatany tooth Rhodium, 58
paste,
382
Roi, bouquet du, 106 Romaine, pomade, 169
Hongroise, 173
Roman
perfumes, 26
24, 26
Romaine, 169
a la ambrosie, 169
sultana,
170
cosmetics, 157-176
of,
Romans, use of perfumes by, Rondelatia pomade, 170 Root beer, 327
Rose, 58
cordial, 333 damask, extract of, 88 extract of, 79, 240 of moss, 100 extrait a la. 107 hair oil, 185
lip salve,
Pomades and
Pomatums,
preparation
stick,
157 175
of,
Pompeii, perfumery in ruins Pond lily pomade, 172 extract of, 105
26
Populeum pomade, 380

Portugal, odors of, 35 Pot-pourri, 138 Poudre, blonde, 200 dentifrice allemande, 204 de menthe, 205
151
la,
pomade a
170
sachet, 137
soap, 287, 305

toilet
powder, 153
hygienique, Cristiani's, 206 de riz, 153 epilatoire, 201 subtile, 201 Powder for fumigation, 381 for perspiring feet, 381
tooth pastes, 208
powder, 204
vinaigre a la, 131 white, pomade, 172 Rosemary hair wash, 190
Powdered soaps, 295

Preparations for the skin, 142-156 Primrose, extract of, 105 pomade, 168 Printaniers, 138 Purple sweet sultana, 83 Pyrethene tooth wash, 213
Roses, oil of, 226 Rosin, 249
Rosmary, 58
theatre, 152 vegetal, 355 Rouges and paints for the face, 151
Rouge de
Pyrosmia, Cristiani's, 140
Royal nosegay, 106 Rum, Jamaica, 329 shrub, 334

Sachet powders, 133-142 Saffron, tincture of, 70 Sage, 58 Sal volatile, spirits of, 132 Santal, 59 tincture of, 75 -wood pastils, 139 Sapophane, 296 Saratoga water, 320 Sarsaparilla syrups, 315, 316 Sassafras, 59 oil of, 226 + Savon au benzoin, 289 au bouquet, 290 au muse, 291 nu sue de laitue, 291 d'ambr6 surfin, 290 Savonettes, 299 Scurf, lotion for, 352 Sealing wax, 383 Sea-water bath, 346
Quatre voleurs, vinaigre des, 130 Queen's nosegay, 106 Quince jelley, 318 Quince seed fixature or bandoline, 192 Quinine hair tonic, 190 Quiniue pomade, 169
Rack, soap, 264

Raisin wine, 324
Rancid butter,
to
remedy, 382
Rasma, Turkish, 382

Raspberry, extract of, 241 syrup, 313, 317 vinegar, 317 Ratafia de frambois, 333 of fruit, 382 Razor paste, 382 Red body, 159 Refrigerator, 66 Reine, bouquet de la, 106 Rendelatia, extract of, 107
396
Segars, disinfecting, 358 Seidlitz water, 319
Serpolet, 59
INDEX.
Soaps
miscellaneous, 293-300
Shampoo
liquor,
383
perfumes for, 252 powdered, 295

toilet.
liquid, 191 lotion, Cristiani's, 191
42
by the cold process, 276-281

implements and ingredients, 242-269 milling and moulding, 300-308 transparent, 297-299 Spa water, 320 Spain, odors of, 35 Spirits of sal volatile, 132 Sponges, liquid, for bleaching, 353 Spring flowers, extract of, 108 Spruce beer, 327 Stains, to remove, 361 Star aniseed, 46
Statistics of flower culture of Grasse,
Shaving cream, 293 Sherbet syrup, 315 Sherry, 325

Silver dust for the hair, 358 hair dyes, 196, 197 Siphon for lye, 253
Snow cream, 357

Soap, almond. 279 alum, 343 ambergris, 290
antiseptic,
344
Cannes, and Nice, 39 Steam, distillation by, 69 kettle, 255, 256 detersive toilet, 343 Stearine, 244 Stick pomatums, 175 elder-flower, 306 erasive, 307 Still, 64, 65 essence of, 359 and water bath for transparent essences, 296 soaps, 266 Stock, white soap, 270 half-palm, 280 Storax, 59 honey, 287 kettle, 255 Strawberry cordial, 333 extract of, 241 lettuce, 291 marshmallow, 287, 305 syrup, 312 mill, 268 Stye lotion, 382 millefleur, 292 Styptic, 383 minor implements for manufacture Styrax, tincture of, 75 Suave, extrait, 108 of, 260 musk, 291 Subtile, poudre, 201 Succinated spirits of ammonia, 132 oatmeal, 306 palm, 272 Sulphur lotion, 149 palm with rosin. 273 Sulphuretted bath, 348 toilet powder, 154 presses, 261-263 Sultana, pomade a la, 170 rack, 264 Summer blossoms, extract of, 109 rose, 287, 305 Sweetbrier, 50 separation, 270 extract of, 89 toilet, compounding, 286-293 tooth paste, 209 Sweet clover, extract of, 109 violet, 292 flag, extract of, 110 white, for colored soaps by cold pea, 57 extract of, 105 process, 278 white, for stock, 270 Syringa, extract of, 108 Windsor, 287, 288 Syrup of banana, 313 yellow, 279 Syrups, jellies, candies, their flavors and colors, 309-320 Soaps, American, 43 by patent processes, 307, 308 Tallow, working, 247 English, 42 floating, 294, 295 Tea, oil of, 182 frames for, 256-259 rose, extract of, 110 French, 42 Teeth, gums, and breath, 203-220 Tests of essential oils, 220-230 glycerine, 287
cutter, 267 dentifr'ce, 207
benzoin, 289 bouquet, 290, 305 cocoa-nut oil, 274
INDEX.
Tetter ointment, 384 Thd, toniquede, 189
397
tincture for hair
Vegetable
of,
Thousand flowers, bouquet Thyme, 59

oil of,
99
228
Venus, bouquet de, 112 nosegay, 112 Verbena, 60
Tincture of orris, 386 Tinctures, 12-77
pomade, 171
sachet, 137
Tobacco and segars, flavors and perfumes for, 335-339

Toilet powders, 152 soups, 42 by the cold process, 276-281
compounding, 286293 implements and ingredients, 242-269 manipulation of 269-276 milling and moulding, 300-308 waters, 117-133 Tolu, balsam of, 47, 60
tincture
of,
water, 128 Verveine, extrait de, 112 Vichy water, 319 Vinaigre a la rose, 131 violette, 131 aromatique, 129
de rouge, 152 des quatre voleurs, 130 Vinegar, Henry's, 130
manufacture
Violet, 61
of,
334, 335
76
cosmetic, 176 extract of, 80, 112
Tonique de the", 189 Tonquin, 60 pomade, 158 tincture of, 75 Tooth paste, areca nut, 344 rhatany, 382
pastes,
pomade, 171, 172

sachet, 137 soap, 292
toilet
powder, 153
tooth paste, 209
wash, 213
Violets, cold
208-210
cream
of,
la,
powder, French, 363 phosphated, 381 powders, 204-207, 361 washes, 211-214 Toothache drops, 384 Transparent soap:?, 297-299 Tricophalon pomade, 384 Tuberose, 60 extract of, 79, 110
Violette, vinaigre a Vitivert, 61
147 131
tincture of, 77 Volatile essence, 133 Volatile oils in plants, 36 Volatilization of perfumes, 43
Voleurs, vinaigre des quatre, 130 Volkameria, extract of, 113

Wall- flower, extract
of,
pomade, 171
Tulip, extract of, 111 Turkey, otto of rose of, 35
113
Wart pomade, 386
Wash
Turkish nosegay, 11 Turmeric, tincture of, 76 Turquie, bouquet de, 111

1
balls, 299 Water bath, 67
of Italian flowers, 125
Waxed
United States, odors of, 35 perfumery manufacture UrsaHna, 172 Usquebaugh, 334
Vanilla, 60
cordial, 334
tables, varnish for, 385 Weights and measures, 340-342 West-end bouquet, 114
in,
40
sachet, 138
White Castile soap, 283

enamel,
1-J9
extract
of, 111,241 pomade, 159, 171 syrup, 316
pomade, 172 rose pomade, 172 soap for colored soaps by cold process, 2; 8
pond
lily
tincture of, 76 Varnish, Chinese, 345

for artists,
384
Varnishes, 385
Vat
for lye, 254 Vegetable hair dyes, 199
for stock, 270 White Windsor soap, 287 Wig paste, 386 Wild flowers, extract of, 92 Windsor soap, 287, 288 Wine, ambergris, 344 bitters, 330 blackberry, 323
398
Wine
324 Wines, 323-326 Wintergreen, 61
raisin,
INDEX.
Woodbine, extract
of,
95
Wisteria, extract of, 113 Wood violet, extract of, 112 Woodbine, 51
Yacht club bouquet, 114 Yellow body, 159 Yellow soap, 279
Ylang ylang, 61
extract
of,
114

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PEEFUMEET AND KINDRED

CONSULTING CHEMISV ANI? >^B,yCM3R,

PHILADELPHIA: HENRY CAREY BA1RD &

INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS, AND IMPORTERS,

HENRY CAREY BAIRD

simple and the right

ingly, he has adopted an original and simplified system in

himself to produce every

valuable variety of perfume, soap, and cosmetic at present

and will be found

most pleasant and

to the virtues of particular preparations

the authors of these books, but with no intention whatever

parts so well adapted to the cultivation of numerous

which are useful to the perfumer, that the author

add increased wealth

more and more independent of the

finally, in time, ourselves to

large exporters of such products, for

and growing market throughout the world.

MATERIALS USED IN PERFUMERY.

Bay; Bergamot; Bigarrade; Benzoin

Lavender; Lemon; Lemon Grass

Melissa; Mignonette; Mirbane; Mint; Myrtle;

Mace; Magnolia; Marjoram; Meadow Sweet Myrrh

Tincture of Civet; Myrrh of Musk

EXTRACTS AND BOUQUETS.

Bouquet d'Alhambra; D'Aspasia; Extrait Auberpine

Extrait des Fleurs des

Extrait des Fleurs d' Italic

quet Kiss-Me- Quick

Extrait de la Fleur de Pesche

Extrait du Pois dc Sontenr

.107 .108 .109 .110 .111 .112 .113

Cologne (second quality)

Cologne Oil (Cristiani's Cologne

Vinaigre Aromatique (De Bully)

Ammoniated Cologne Water

SACHET POWDERS, ETC.

West-end Sachet Pot-Pourri Cassolettes Pastilles Fumantes Santal- wood Pastils

Fumigating Pastils Perfumed Leather

PREPARATIONS FOR THE SKIN.

Sulphur Lotion Pomade Divine

Eukcsis or Essence of Soap

luxe Lip Salve

.149 .150 .151

AND PAINTS FOR THE FACE.

Lip Balm; Fard Bleu

POMADES AND COSMETICS.

Violet Pomade, No. 2

White Pond Lily Pomade

White Kose Po.

Hongroise (White) Philocome Pomade

Philocome Moelle de Boeuf

HAIR OILS AND HAIR TONICS.