How can you promote inclusivity in the fashion industry?

Unknown to most people, the fashion industry is the fourth most polluting industry and caters mostly for certain stereotypes ( think about A-list celebrities, runway models). In Malaysia, there’s an initiative known as the Malaysian Fashion Creative Awards which aims to embed sustainability thinking into the whole lifecycle of fashion (from the design stage-thinking about who your audience is including marginalised communities, the disabled all the way to the end of life of these clothes-how do collect and upcycle them). There are also groups that are working on preserving culture through fashion. Certain traditional clothes made by artisans have been identified as a ‘dying trait’ and a lot of work needs to be done for their revival.

Do something which different Adopt Blue Ocean Strategy to achieve inclusivity in Fashion industry Do what the best fashion set ups are doing and then do something extra and different so that your product stands out Make the competition irrelevant by pursuing the market not exploited so far Instead of competing in Red Ocean fish in the blue ocean

The fashion landscape is undergoing a profound transformation: our methods of consumption, modes of expression, and means of self-identification are all evolving significantly. It is imperative, therefore, to cast our gaze beyond the present moment and anticipate the forthcoming waves of innovators and consumers. The Next Generation plays a pivotal role in shaping the future values of the fashion industry. Simultaneously, individual identities are in a state of flux, as we increasingly prioritize novel avenues for self-expression and a sense of belonging.

First thing, leadership can do is to start listening to those from marginalised communities as we are continuously pointing out ways to increase DEI. Then finally grasp what DEI actually means and implement it in a that adds value and meaning. It shouldn’t be about promotion, it should be the standard.

Fashion comes from a 12C Latin word “factionem” which means - ‘making, doing or preparing’ And it also means “a group of people acting/doing (stuff) together” It’s unique individual expression but it’s also ‘combined’ - a larger expression of a larger community - it’s inherent in the spirit of the word - and that’s exactly what we are witnessing now! The dictatorships in “fasoun/factionem/facets/fashion” are about to be a thing of past as the expression of a community takes over empowered by Technological Revolution. More and more new voices are coming up, from hitherto hidden nooks and corners of Blue Planet and it’s showing in the never before “creations.” The creations of minds untethered to the idea of ‘worshipping’ a Fashion God!

Fashion industry can play essential role to ensure that people from diverse backgrounds, body types, abilities, and identities feel represented and valued. It is a continuous process that requires ongoing learning, being creative, adaptation and introspection to make fashion as a representative platform for all. Though today there is increasing awareness about 'beauty in all sizes' but one aspect is not much talked about i.e promoting accessibility in design to accommodate individuals with disabilities. This can include features like adjustable waistbands, magnetic closures, or easy-to-wear designs for people with mobility challenges.

By not selling online and prioritising a cathartic experience in my showroom through bespoke tailoring, I have realised that knowing your audience goes beyond market research: it is about hearing the person you have in front of you in order to co-design the garments that make the invisible visible. As example, when you come to Maison IAGU, you come to be heard, not to be told, to co-design, not to wear a collection, to heal, not to hide, to learn about the cost of the fashion industry, not to shop and go, to dress your emotions, not to cater to those of others, to fit in your clothes metaphorically and physically, not to fit in a box. To show up for your life, not to others’. It’s about buying better, living better.

Despite the fashion industry communicating its bold commitments to inclusion, its impact has been limited. Inclusion is applied to race, gender, sexuality, age, size, and religion, but rarely to one’s abilities. In my almost-decade of working on social and environmental sustainability dimensions of the industry, I’ve never heard a designer mention how their collection might appeal to someone with limited use of their arms or how a new trouser would work for someone with a prosthetic.

Dare to go against the trends and micro trends by intentionally creating consumer experiences for those not being currently targeted by these trends. Study shows that marketing engagement neglects groups such as over 50s and disabled consumer groups, leaving over £500 Million on the table each year, in the UK alone. I once challenged an industry leader in fashion retail about this and his response was not very encouraging.

An example of challenging the norms is my collaboration with Artist, Film-maker and Climate Educator Amy Lauren who went to the Arctic. Together, we merged Climate Science, Technology, Sustainable practices in fashion and Education in order to build environments of peace. Indeed, we need to feel about things first, in order to have a place to put the things that we think about. If scientists use instruments to expand the scope of human perception to measure things we cannot directly perceive, then artists can expand the spectrum of feelings associated with climate change to include the beauty all there is still left to save. What better way to stay with the trouble and challenge the norms?

The industry needs to reimagine its core values and missions. It needs to think beyond the usual focus on increasing revenue by selling out fast and more garments. It needs to challenge the concept of fast fashion and focus on classic designs and durable clothes.

Engaging diverse contibutors in the process from the beginning is key to accountability. What does the company look like internally? Who is involved in decision-making? How are is the company ensuring accountability and fair working standards in the supply chain? Considering these questions will take accountability beyond disclosure and begin to integrate inclusivity at the core business.

Amplifying what Amber has said below on involving diverse decision-making in internal processes. Inclusivity in fashion should permeate the entire design process. Representation goes beyond disclosure by involving a spectrum of voices from the outset, becoming an intrinsic part of the business model. Decisions on product design and development have 80% impact on all phases of the supply chain in fashion production. As far as sustainable innovation goes, this extends beyond traditional players and can encompass more creatively inclined thinkers especially when working in a highly technical sphere.

The new horizons of fashion intersect with critical ESG concerns and foster creative openness, inclusion, and co-creation. Inclusivity now permeates corporate strategies, involving creators, consumers, and the collective voices that champion particular brands. Particularly in the realm of digital experiences and e-commerce, we witness a burgeoning trend in co-created collections, user-centered experiences, and community building at the core of brand activations today. Transparency extends beyond financial and resource aspects, encompassing coherent storytelling, inclusivity, and ESG considerations.

This step is an ongoing and open dialogue. Transparency leads to accountability, but it also can lead to building trust and credibility. When properly implemented, it supports the development of strong, constructive, and responsive relationships with stakeholders. Information disclosure should be based on the dissemination of meaningful and easily accessible information in a timeframe that enables consultations with stakeholders in a culturally appropriate format, in relevant local language(s), and is understandable. Therefore, this step should be accompanied by a mechanism that provides stakeholders with accessible and inclusive means to raise questions and concerns, so that companies can respond and manage them appropriately.

Inorder to validate credibility in accountability and transparency consideration also needs to include ensuring that visibility is awarded to those that are less likely to have access to usual platforms, accountability extends beyond the "usual audience" , a simple step can be ensuring your information platforms are accessible to all, for example wider reporting format that is accessible in different languages so that all stakeholders not just those closest to are able to access disclosures and reports.

It is easy to exclaim from the top of the fashion week podiums how a brand is committing to sustainability and social impact. It is tough to transparently disclose where the money is being put and what are the returns from these investments - not just financial returns, but environmental and social returns too.

There was once a time when secrecy shrouded the fashion industry. We are now awakening to the realization that we must collaboratively construct meaningful experiences and products that embody collective values. I introduced the concept of the "open source heritage" in my PhD thesis to explore how we create communal experiences, and this principle can readily be applied to the world of fashion. Empowerment through the dissemination of knowledge, the harnessing of skill sets, and the cultivation of networks of talent offer a means for brands to share power with the upcoming generation of consumers. This approach opens up the sourcing of their products and ideas, ushering in a new era of transparency and inclusivity in the industry.

Another way of educating and empowering is to build bridges between individuals, people and communities. To do so, I have found that asking question remains the best tool, allbeit obvious, yet so often forgotten about. Through the example of Maison IAGU, education and empowerment must be embedded in every company's business model. It is Paramount to note that the fashion industry has historically split the definition of gender and pronouns and destroyed the bridges between individual expression and its collective acceptance. To educate and empower, brands must recognise their operations from the supply chain to the customers, and integrate in their architecture a cathartic and educational system.

From my personal experiences and how my career in the fashion industry has shifted, one of the biggest “aha” moments I had and where I learned the most was understanding the psychology behind fashion and it’s impact on people. If you can educate & empower yourself in understanding what makes any consumer choose and buy and follow your brand then you can understand how and why being inclusive then falls into the whole aspect of celebration, really knowing your audience, etc.

The importance of promoting education is highlighted through the introduction of programs focused on sustainable, ethical and conscious fashion, targeting fashion professionals and consumers. Also, the inclusion of the indigenous and marginalized communities, respecting and preserving their knowledge and ancestral wisdom, through training for designers and other stakeholders interested in collaborating with these communities.

The introduction of new sustainable innovation processes and introduction of technologies in fashion is a bright light to facilitate progress towards inclusion within the sector. These innovation and experimentation processes include inclusive design for greater representation of body sizes and disabilities; traceability in the supply chain to ensure the proper inclusion of women in the sector, respecting and guaranteeing their human and labor rights; among others.

Celebrate and support by hiring people from diverse perspectives. The fashion industry must further develop pathways to positions of influence for communities that typically are not represented.

I am probably out on a limb here but while many of the previous posts have included great information on diversity and inclusion from the manufacturing workforce to the designers, models, chosen supply chains & materials no one has questioned the concept of the fashion industry. Does anyone remember the Beauty Myth by Naiomi Wolf? We can fix things around the edges but mainstream fashion changes to keep people consuming. Jean Jackets are back in and long denim skirts (after denim, apart from jeans was out) short boots are in one year long the next. Today’s youth are more savvy (well some) there is a big trend for teens & young adults to shop at op shops for second hand clothes. Fashion is not sustainable. You only have to look to Africa.

If you are a non diverse employer, manager, designer,… yourself: hire people of diverse backgrounds, give them a shot at your next assignment, include them in your platforms, surround yourself with people with different backgrounds and view on life, just do it. Because once you have more voices inside your company or around you, you are able to shift faster and better. You will learn by doing. And even learn things you didn’t even realize you needed to be aware of. Don’t try to figure it all out for them, they know best, empower them, trust the process but start today.

On the introduction of new technologies in the processes, it is important to highlight that we are in a crucial time for innovation in creative and sustainable processes within fashion, where technology is our main support to promote inclusion within fashion, as long as it is used in an ethical and conscious way.

As the Founder and Designer of Maison IAGU, I can see that, as much as there is no one size-fits-all design wise, there is no one size-fits-all in promoting inclusivity in the fashion industry. Fashion is a phenomenological interface between our internal and external experiences. Getting dressed is a daily ritual, and consciously or not, we all make decisions about how we want the world to perceive us. Clothes are a boundary that regulate exchanges between ourselves and the world. Indeed, trauma fundamentally is a disconnection from the self, and if we want to build peace in the world we need to build peace within ourselves first. What if fashion facilitated internal dialogues of peace every morning? What if that was inclusivity.