Lonely Planet Philippines

Philippines

CONTENTS

Plan Your Trip

The Journey Begins Here

The Philippines Map

Our Picks

Regions & Cities

Itineraries

When to Go

Get Prepared

Diving in the Philippines

The Food Scene

How to Visit Ethnic Minorities

The Outdoors

The Guide

Manila

City of Manila

Pasay & Parañaque

Makati & BGC

Quezon City & Beyond

Places We Love to Stay

Around Manila

Tagaytay & Lake Taal

Beyond Tagaytay & Lake Taal

Anilao

Clark

Beyond Clark

Places We Love to Stay

North Luzon

Baguio

Beyond Baguio

Vigan City

Beyond Vigan City

Sagada

Beyond Sagada

Pagudpud

Beyond Pagudpud

Baler

Beyond Baler

Places We Love to Stay

Southeast Luzon

Legazpi

Beyond Legazpi

Naga

Beyond Naga

Masbate

Beyond Masbate

Places We Love to Stay

Mindoro

Puerto Galera

Beyond Puerto Galera

San José

Beyond San José

Places We Love to Stay

Boracay & Western Visayas

Boracay

Beyond Boracay

Roxas

Iloilo

Beyond Iloilo

Bacolod

Beyond Bacolod

Dumaguete

Beyond Dumaguete

Siquijor

Romblon

Places We Love to Stay

Cebu & Eastern Visayas

Cebu City

Beyond Cebu City

Moalboal

Bantayan Island

Malapascua Island

Bohol

Leyte

Biliran

Samar

Places We Love to Stay

Mindanao

Siargao

Beyond Siargao

Camiguin

Cagayan de Oro

Beyond Cagayan de Oro

Davao

Beyond Davao

Zamboanga City

Places We Love to Stay

Palawan

El Nido

Coron Town

Beyond Coron Town

Port Barton

Puerto Princesa

Beyond Puerto Princesa

Places We Love to Stay

Toolkit

Arriving

Getting Around

Money

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

Wildlife

Nuts & Bolts

Language

Storybook

A History of the Philippines in 15 Places

Meet the Filipinos

Modern Threads

Modernising Manila

Basketball in the Philippines

Women in Opposition

This Book

THE PHILIPPINES

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Jeepney, Batad | Aleksandar Todorovic/shutterstock ©

I have lived in the Philippines for the better part of 20 years, dividing my time between Manila and Palawan. My three kids were born here, and eventually I will build a house and retire in the mountains south of Manila. Why do I love the Philippines? Of course there’s the raw beauty – I live in El Nido, after all. But as much as I like perfect beaches and idyllic islands, it’s for the subtler things that I love the Philippines. It’s those long rooftop jeepney rides through the mountains of North Luzon, followed by a round of gin shots with indigenous elders in the da-pay (meeting area). It’s that fresh-fish lunch on an all-day bangka journey. It’s the warm, fuzzy feeling of a cold San Miguel at sundown. It’s friends with names like Bing and Bong, and phrases like ‘comfort room’. It’s – dare I say it – karaoke. Now that’s love.

Greg Bloom

@bearcattravel

Greg is a long-time Lonely Planet author and the founder of El Nido-based Bearcat Travel. He wrote the Plan Your Trip chapters and the Manila and Around Manila chapters.

My favourite experience in and around Manila is Masungi Georeserve – a super-fun adventure that contributes to the protection of the vital Sierra Madre range.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers choose the places which, for them, define the Philippines.

Tian Chad/Shutterstock ©

As remote as it is, the idyllic island group of Batanes (pictured) really charmed me, both for its beautiful scenery – it has stunning ocean, dramatic cliffs, rolling hills and a volcano -- and for its sweet, kind, people. It’s a place that is so easy to overlook on a trip to the Philippines but one that anyone who visits will find themselves captivated by. The communal ideals, the calm tranquillity, and the friendliness will woo any traveller who comes here.

Ray Bartlett

@kaisoradotcom

KidapawanSnake/Wikimedia/CC BY-SA 4.0 ©

Agung House (pictured), artist Kublai Millan’s sculptural park and oasis built within view of cloud-covered Mt Apo in southern Mindanao, represents the best of Filipino ambitions and longings for peace. Enormous figures from major ethnic and religious groups grasp hands in a show of harmony. Millan has installed similar monumental scenes all over Mindanao, hoping that artistic forms, whether at traffic circles or atop beautiful mountain scenery, serve as inspiration for reconciliation.

Michael Grosberg

www.linkedin.com/in/michael-grosberg-9912858

Andrea Izzotti/Shutterstock ©

The small patches of sand that comprise Panagsama Beach aren’t much to look at, and are certainly not of the tropical-dream persuasion. Moalboal took a direct hit in 2021 when Typhoon Odette battered the region, and its ravaged shoreline is still wounded. Yet fast forward a few years and the resort is thriving again, as resilient Visayans have rebuilt their businesses and the famous sardine school (pictured) remains as bewitching as ever, and just offshore.

Iain Stewart

@iaintravel

Neil Bussey/Shutterstock ©

Though locals scoff at the moniker ‘gentle people’, Dumaguete residents embody the best of Filipino society. So many people I met were delighted to share a bit of their city with a foreign visitor. Dumaguete also has an impressive food scene (pictured) for a town of its size, and a wealth of attractions nearby, including renowned diving sites, biologically rich forests and one of Negros’ most fascinating islands.

Regis St Louis

@regisstlouis

ISLAND HOPPIN’

It’s the quintessential Philippines experience: board a trusty bangka (boat) and spend days – or weeks – navigating the country’s 7000 islands. Island-hopping tours are ubiquitous in Palawan and the Visayas, which are home to many of the dreamiest islands and most magnificent seascapes. Elsewhere, you might negotiate with local boatmen to take you out to remote fishing villages where the daily catch is grilled for dinner.

El Nido and Cadlao Island | Dmitry Pichugin/shutterstock ©

Riding in Style

Although bangkas (pictured) remain the most popular island-hopping crafts, fancier motorised yachts and sailing boats are gaining steam as more comfortable and safer alternatives.

Pelikh Alexey/shutterstock ©

Overnight Hops

Popular in northern Palawan, multiday island-hopping trips offer an opportunity to bunk down under the stars on remote beaches and leave the modern world behind.

Andrey Danilovich/getty images ©

Weather Watch

Weather is fickle and cancellations happen, especially June–October (the rainy season on the east coast) and December–February (the windy months).

BEST ISLAND-HOPPING EXPERIENCES

Bacuit Archipelago 1 Cruise through this labyrinthine waterworld off El Nido (pictured) in northern Palawan, which should be top of the list for any island nut.

Coron Island 2 Board a bangka or sea kayak to explore the beguiling Calamian Islands, including this masterpiece near Coron town.

Bucas Grande 3 Head out from Siargao to slither around this island’s sensationally scenic lagoons.

Caramoan Peninsula 4 Explore the karsts around this wedge of land in eastern Bicol, which rival those of the Bacuit Archipelago.

Olango Island 5 Take a tour of this wildlife refuge and the reef-studded islets of the surrounding Olango Reef Flat off Cebu.

WALKS ON THE WILD SIDE

Forming part of the Pacific Ring of Fire, the Philippines has scores of mountains over 2000m, many of them active or dormant volcanoes that can be climbed all the way to the summit. Climbs can be anything from short half-hour jaunts to multiday expeditions. Another can’t-miss experience is trekking around the rice terraces of North Luzon. Forays into the exquisitely carved terraces follow ancient trails linking bucolic villages where indigenous customs thrive.

Batad rice terraces | R.M. Nunes/shutterstock ©

Trekking Season

February to May is the best time to climb, as this is when the weather is driest and there are fewer limatik (leeches).

Markie Aungon/shutterstock ©

Mountain Closures

Tempermental volcanoes like Mt Mayon (pictured) and Taal Volcano are often closed to trekking. Check Philvolcs (phivolcs.dost.gov.ph) for the latest.

Maciej Rutkowski/shutterstock ©

Stay Hydrated

Extremely hot and humid conditions are the norm when climbing any Philippine peak, especially at lower altitudes. Hydrate early and often.

BEST TREKKING EXPERIENCES

Banaue and Batad 1 Gawk at the emerald-green rice terraces in and around these villages, hewn out of the hillsides centuries ago by the Ifugao people.

Mt Kanlaon 2 Ascend through forests teeming with birds and wildlife to the summit of this active volcano towering over northern Negros.

Mt Hibok-Hibok 3 Veer into the interior of Camiguin Island to climb this craggy volcano, then cool off in refreshing pools fed by thundering waterfalls.

Mt Apo 4 Launch an assault on the country’s highest peak, which lords over southern Mindanao, tempting climbers to set out from nearby Davao.

Mt Halcon 5 Accept the Philippines’ ultimate climbing challenge – a three-day expedition up Mindoro’s highest mountain.

BEACH LIFE

Those looking for the perfect beach may finally find it in the Philippines: there is one made-to-order on each of the country’s 7000-plus islands. Whether you want to be far away from everybody, dancing to techno beats in the sand, kite-surfing the day away or watching the sun drop with a fruity cocktail in your hand, you have come to the right place.

Nacpan Beach | AerialPhilippines/Alamy Stock Photo ©

Beach Seasons

Know the weather patterns for best beach results. The east coast is rainiest from June to September, the west coast from December to March.

MDV Edwards/shutterstock ©

Little Nuisances

Nearly invisible sandflies – or nikniks – are an issue on more remote beaches in Palawan and elsewhere. Locally available bug sprays offer moderate protection.

myboys.me/shutterstock ©

Safe Sun Worshipping

That tropical sun is intense! Invest in a good rashguard to prevent severe sunburn and protect against jellyfish and various stinging microorganisms.

BEST BEACH EXPERIENCES

White Beach 1 Dig your feet into the powdered-sugary sand of this Boracay icon and gape in awe at yet another five-star sunset.

Nacpan Beach 2 Enjoy long walks along this insanely beautiful stretch of sand – one of many postcard-perfect beaches in and around El Nido.

San Vicente 3 Long Beach Ride a motorbike along 14km of nearly uninterrupted sand that grace the coastline north of Port Barton.

Pagudpud’s Beaches 4 Make the long slog up to the tip of Luzon to gallivant on the white sand of the country’s northernmost beaches.

Paliton Beach 5 Drive around Siquijor’s 72km, nearly-traffic-free ring road, with stops to laze on isolated beaches such as this beauty.

INTO THE DEEP

Plunge into nature’s washing machine, the Philippine Sea, world-renowned for its diverse marine life. The country occupies the heart of the so-called Coral Triangle, and its reefs explode with colour and kooky-looking critters – a delight for seasoned scuba divers and casual snorkellers alike. If you’re in the right place at the right time you might spy whale sharks, dugongs (sea cows) or sea turtles passing by.

Scubadiving with sardines, Moalboal | Jukkis/shutterstock ©

Whale Sharks

Ecofriendly (ie, non-hand-fed) whale-shark (pictured) spotting programmes are run out of Donsol in Southeast Luzon and Puerto Princesa in Palawan.

oo23/shutterstock ©

Don’t Eat Me

The sharks (including whale sharks and thresher sharks; pictured) and other sea creatures you typically encounter under Philippine seas are by and large harmless.

Damir Zurub/shutterstock ©

Snorkel or Dive

Not a diver? Not a problem. The best dive spots, including those listed here, tend to be the best snorkelling spots too.

BEST UNDERWATER EXPERIENCES

Balicasag and Pamilacan Islands 1 Snorkel with turtles and spot dolphins and whales frolicking in the Bohol Sea around these reef-fringed islands.

Malapascua Island 2 Head to the north tip of Cebu for close encounters with thresher sharks, joined on occasion by manta rays.

Apo Reef 3 Observe sharks, rays, wrasses and other pelagic life on a trip out to this glorious, mostly sunken atoll two hours off Mindoro.

Southern Leyte 4 Swim among sea turtles to investigate the rich coral reefs off Padre Burgos, or go whale-shark spotting in Pintuyan.

Moalboal 5 Use the scuba equipment or freedive to observe schooling sardines shimmying in a giant blob just metres from shore.

GOING GREEN

As one of the most biodiverse places on the planet, the Philippines has plenty to protect. There are several laudable ecotourism initiatives and places where green tourism thrives. But you’ll need to do your homework to find them. Start by travelling independently as many domestic tour operators don’t give a hoot about conservation, although there are notable exceptions.

Philippine eagle | Edwin Verin/shutterstock ©

Ecofriendly Travel Basics

Avoid single-use plastics, carry your own cutlery and refillable water bottle, favour kayaks and bicycles to motorised transport, use reef-friendly sunscreen.

Anirut Thailand/shutterstock ©

Food for Thought

Eat healthy and eat local to reduce your ecological footprint. Prefer the family-run inn or (preferably vegan) burger joint over multinational chains.

Damsie/shutterstock ©

Conscious Company

Enlist a responsible travel aggregator such as Eco Explorations (ecoexplorationsph.com). They vet tours for sustainability and work with the best of them.

BEST ECOFRIENDLY EXPERIENCES

Batanes 1 Fly to the Philippines’ most northerly island chain, where traditional customs endure and basic homestays and cycling sum up the environmental ethos.

Tao Philippines 2 Embark on a dreamy multiday expedition or visit the farm-based El Nido HQ of this socially responsible cruise company.

Masungi Georeserve 3 Navigate unique rope courses built into the karst at this award-winning sustainable travel initiative that helps protect the Sierra Madre Mountains.

Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary 4 View Bohol’s cuddly fist-sized primates in their natural forest habitat, with proceeds going to protect the species.

Philippine Eagle Center 5 Visit this sanctuary which is dedicated to the conservation of the Philippines’ national bird – the world’s largest eagle.

HISTORIC HOUSES

The Philippines presents a fascinating mix of architectural styles. There are centuries-old stone churches, wooden houses that combine native and European elements and heritage mansions that have been turned into museums or lovely hotels. Many hill tribe families in North Luzon and Mindanao still live in remarkably sturdy hardwood huts constructed without nails. Those who prefer more contemporary designs can ogle the modern, gleaming skyscrapers of BGC in Manila.

Kalesa, Vigan | Akarat Phasura/shutterstock ©

Living Museum

Serious architecture nuts should head to Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar (pictured), where mansions from around the country have been faithfully reconstructed.

hijodeponggol/shutterstock ©

Beauty in Simplicity

The simple, utilitarian nipa hut (pictured) has defined Filipino architecture for centuries. It is typically made of wood and bamboo, with a thatch roof.

kosa mayor/shutterstock ©

Hidden Treasures

Although much of the country’s Spanish colonial architecture is gradually being torn down, you will sometimes stumble across fine examples in the most remote barangays.

BEST ARCHITECTURAL EXPERIENCES

Vigan 1 Walk or hire a kalesa (horse-drawn carriage) to navigate cobbled Calle Crisologo, lined with heritage houses exhibiting Mexican, Chinese, Filipino and Spanish influences.

Silay 2 Tour this northern Negros town’s beautiful, century-old sugar mansions, a few of which are now museums.

Taal Town 3 Take in well-preserved 19th-century ancestral homes and one of the largest basilicas in Southeast Asia in this underrated township.

Escolta St 4 Admire American-era art deco and beaux arts edifices along this once-grand Manila avenue, which is experiencing a revival.

Jaro Cathedral 5 Use this iconic church as your starting point for a stroll around Iloilo’s Jaro district, full of faded mansions from a bygone era.

CHASING WATERFALLS

There’s nothing quite like the sight (and sound) of a torrent of whitewater exploding into an idyllic pool, especially after a steamy, sweaty hike through the jungle. A combination of lots of rain and extremely mountainous topography across the Philippines’ major islands leads to an abundance of waterfalls. Many yield truly spectacular, break-the-internet-quality photos. Yes, they can be hard to reach, but getting there is half the fun.

Bomod-ok Falls, Sagada | aviseller/shutterstock ©

Drying Up

Many smaller waterfalls slow to a trickle or dry up completely during the driest months (generally April to early June). Know the seasons to avoid disappointment.

ToinkzDoinkz/shutterstock ©

Making the Leap

Cliff jumping opportunities abound, but use common sense. Don’t go leaping into uncharted waters; test the depth personally before launch; when in doubt, don’t jump.

Lukman Haryanto/shutterstock ©

Proper Footwear

Many of the best falls require long slogs, often along unkempt trails deep in the forest. Proper hiking shoes are highly recommended (although guides wear flip-flops).

BEST WATERFALL EXPERIENCES

Sagada 1 Cut through idyllic villages and rice terraces to impressive Bomod-ok (‘Big’) Falls and a host of other cascades within range of this laid-back mountain town.

Pagsanjan Falls 2 Board a longboat propelled upstream by manpower in one of the Philippines’ quirkiest, most quintessential adventures.

Kawasan Falls 3 Head beyond the busy main pool (as gorgeous as it is) and enjoy more secluded falls and swimming holes.

Bugtong Bato Falls 4 Head out from Boracay on a day trip for the mild adventure to these multi-tiered falls with picturesque pools.

Anuplig Falls 5 Two paths diverge on a mountain road near Pagudpud – take the longer route to this crowd-free waterfall feeding a frigid swimming hole.

SWELL SURF

Stick 7000 islands in the middle of the Pacific and some decent-sized swell is going to make landfall somewhere. The typhoon season – roughly July to November – occasionally sees giant barrels lash the entire length of the eastern seaboard. On the west coast, the offshore-blowing amihan (northeast monsoon) shapes consistent, tasty waves from December to March. Feeling really adventurous? Hire a private yacht to seek out undiscovered breaks on a multiday surf safari.

San Juan, La Union | Stephen Green-Price/shutterstock ©

Board Rental

Boards for all levels are available at the main areas. Of course you’ll look cooler travelling with your own board; just be ready to back it up.

Photo by TanMan/getty images ©

Competitive Spirit

Surf competitions are a fun time to visit surf towns – join if you got game. The biggest are in Siargao (pictured), San Juan and Calicoan Island.

Nathan Allen/Alamy Stock Photo ©

Crowds

Although locals dub Siargao’s signature wave ‘Crowd Nine’, surfing remains fairly niche and serious crowds are rare – even at Cloud Nine.

BEST SURFING EXPERIENCES

Cloud Nine 1 The name of this legendary right-hander says it all, but it’s just one of many near-perfect waves off surf capital Siargao.

San Juan (La Union) 2 The best surf spot on North Luzon’s west coast, with consistent three- to five-footers during the amihan.

Catanduanes 3 Majestics is the top wave in Bicol, a region known for adventure sports and typhoons. Its remoteness ensures no crowds.

Baler 4 The point break made famous in Apocalypse Now (‘Charlie don’t surf’) is famously fickle. But when it’s on, it’s surfing bliss.

Calicoan Island 5 Far-flung outpost in Samar which is home to four reef breaks collectively known as ABCD, with excellent both right and left breaks.

STEP INTO HISTORY

Few countries endured more pain, suffering and damage than the Philippines in WWII and sombre memorials across the archipelago commemorate battles, landings and death marches. Although very few of these memorials remember the 100,000-plus civilians who perished in the Battle of Manila in early 1945, there is a growing body of literature on the capital’s darkest hour.

Grim Fact

Manila is widely considered by historians to have suffered more devastation than any Allied capital besides Warsaw in WWII.

Hit1912/shutterstock ©

Underwater Museum

For a unique WWII history experience, wreck diving in Coron Bay (pictured) brings you up close and personal with 10 Japanese ships sunk in 1944.

Baseline Photos/shutterstock ©

Must Read

Retribution: The Battle for Japan by Max Hastings provides riveting accounts of epic naval battles and skewers MacArthur’s hubris-driven campaign to retake the Philippines.

BEST WWII HISTORY EXPERIENCES

Bataan Peninsula 1 Retrace the laboured steps of the 70,000 Filipino and American prisoners who suffered through the Bataan Death March.

Leyte Landing Memorial 2 Make like MacArthur and waltz ashore on Red Beach, where an iconic statue recreates his ‘return’ during history’s biggest naval battle.

Corregidor Island 3 Hire a boat out of Manila or Mariveles, Bataan, to access this notorious island where MacArthur made his ‘I shall return’ pledge.

Manila American Cemetery 4 Visit this peaceful and moving cemetery as a starting point to understanding Manila’s darkest period.

Puerto Princesa 5 Wade through museums and thoughtful testaments to understand the strategic role of the Palawan capital in the Pacific theatre.

PARTY PEOPLE

Whether you’re looking to dance the night away in a megacity that never sleeps, dig your toes into the sand at a groovy sunset cocktail bar or gyrate to thumping beats on a distant island under a full moon, you’ve come to the right place. Quite simply, Filipinos have few rivals when it comes to throwing a party.

Cebu City | Richard R Handley/Alamy Stock Photo ©

Dress Code

Dress to impress in the clubs of Manila and Cebu. Flip-flops are abhorred even at some of the fancier bars. On the beach, anything goes.

Cover Charge

Cover charges of P300 to P1000 are common at popular clubs and live music bars in the big cities, although some clubs offer free entry.

BEST NIGHTLIFE EXPERIENCES

Manila 1 Enjoy the capital’s sultry nightlife, from the bongo-infused hipster hang-outs of Quezon City to the sizzling bars and chichi nightclubs of Makati and BGC.

Siargao 2 Rock up to the country’s premier beach party destination, where every night a different bar assumes the mantle of party HQ.

Cebu 3 Spend a night on the prowl in the Philippines’ electric second city, with its craft beer houses, music bars and lively nightclubs.

El Nido 4 Slurp sunset cocktails beachside with incredible Bacuit Bay as a backdrop, then spill into the town for evening-and-beyond shenanigans.

Boracay 5 Enjoy two-for-one sunset cocktails off legendary White Beach. Once tops on this list, party-unfriendly rules have brought it down a notch.

REGIONS & CITIES

Find the places that tick all your boxes.

ITINERARIES

Quick Hitter

Allow: 4-5 days Distance: 1250km

With so many islands to choose from and with lengthy point-to-point travel times, tailoring a four- to five-day itinerary is challenging but doable if you hop on a plane. This one gives you a day to enjoy Manila’s urban delights then whisks you off to islands and mountains.

Mt Hibok-Hibok, Camiguin Island | Greg Bloom/Lonely Planet ©

1 Manila 1 DAY

Kick things off in the Philippines’ energetic capital, which remains the best hub for getting to the islands and is well worth a stopover. Take a specialised tour of Intramuros – or Chinatown if you’re a foodie – then hit one of the national museums (pictured) around Rizal Park for some cultural context. Spill into Makati and BGC for some fine dining and to assess the city’s nightlife.

Tagaytay: 1hr

Greg Bloom/Lonely Planet ©

2 TAGAYTAY 1 DAY

This is both the easiest and the most photogenic day trip out of the capital. Tagaytay snakes along a ridge with spectacular views of Lake Taal and smouldering Taal Volcano hundreds of metres below (pictured). There are some wonderful restaurants that take full advantage of those views. Get an early start and hire a car so you can be back in Manila for an afternoon flight.

Siargao: 3hrs

N8Allen/Shutterstock ©

3 Siargao 2 DAYS

Fly straight to the Philippines’ rising starlet for the Instagram generation. Until recently a niche destination for in-the-know surfers, it has exploded into a cosmopolitan beach resort, with Bali-esque boutique hotels and a nightlife to match.

Camiguin: 10hrs

Detour: Two island-hopping days trips are possible, either of which will wow your friends on social media.

Bucas Grande Island has a beautiful coastline plus hidden caves and lagoons to explore. 2+hrs

Or opt for the boat trip through mangroves to Sugba Lagoon, where you can snorkel and kayak in emerald-green waters among towering limestone cliffs.

1hr ½hr

John Seaton Callahan/getty images ©

4 Camiguin 1 DAY

It’s a long bus-and-ferry journey from Siargao to Camiguin Island. Do the bus leg at night to maximise your time. With seven volcanoes, various waterfalls, hot springs, cold springs (pictured), deserted islands offshore and underwater diversions aplenty, Camiguin is a top adventure-tourism destination. The dramatic landscape makes it a great place to strike out on your own and explore, preferably by motorbike, and there are photo opportunities galore.

Detour: If you have an extra day, consider detouring to nearby Bukidnon for year-round whitewater rafting on the Cagayan de Oro River. Three-hour or more challenging six-hour trips are run out of Cagayan de Oro city.

1hr to Balingoan + 2½ hrs to CDO.

Joemill Veloso Flordelis/getty images ©

ITINERARIES

Cordillera Cruise

Allow: 10 days Distance: 740km

Not a beach person? The mountains of the Philippines’ main island, Luzon, delight inland explorers with rice terraces, trekking and hill tribes. Schedule some time in the sun as well by bookending your trip with stops at two of Luzon’s most famous beaches, both of which are prime surf spots.

Baguio | Z. Jacobs/Shutterstock ©

1 Clark – 1 DAY

Fly into Central Luzon’s rising business hub in Pampanga Province to start this sojourn. Sample a genuine Kapampangan dinner then get up before dawn the next morning to ascend moonlike Mt Pinatubo, whose eruption shook the world in 1991. It’s a half-day expedition involving an exciting 4WD ride (pictured) followed by a 45-minute climb to the volcano’s spectacular, ice-blue crater lake surrounded by craggy peaks.

San Juan: 4½hrs

Kim David/Shutterstock ©

2 San Juan (La Union) 2 DAYS

This unassuming beach town (pictured) has a laid-back surf scene with hostels and food courts catering to shoestring surfers. Barangay Urbiztondo is centre of the action. Beginners are very much welcome, with instruction widely available. Baguio: 2 hrs

Detour: A couple of hours up the coast is Vigan, one of the oldest towns in the Philippines and a must for architecture buffs or anyone interested in Spanish colonial history.

2½hrs

Walter Eric Sy/Shutterstock ©

3 Baguio 1 DAY

Just 60km straight up the hill from San Juan, Baguio is the gateway to the Cordillera Mountains. A few of the city’s museums (pictured) provide worthwhile introductions to the region’s fascinating ethnographic make-up. Sagada: 2 hrs

Detour: Regular buses out of Baguio head 50km north to picturesque Kabayan, the site of several caves containing eerie mummies entombed centuries ago by the indigenous Ibaloi people. full day

Baguio: 3hrs

Charrie Anne Nacor/Wikimedia/CC BY-SA 4.0 ©

4 Sagada 2 DAYS

The epitome of mountain cool, Sagada is the place to escape from civilisation for a couple of days. Caves, peaks, waterfalls and hanging coffins beckon the active traveller, while more sedate types can just kick back with a hot drink and a book and revel in Sagada’s delightfully earthy ambience and chilly weather. Try to time your visit for a begnas (traditional indigenous Kankanay community celebration, pictured).

Banaue: 2hrs

Razvan Ciuca/getty images ©

5 Banaue & Batad 2 DAYS

Banaue is the gateway to the UNESCO-recognised rice terraces (pictured) of Ifugao Province. The amphitheatre-like, stone-walled rice terraces of Batad, a barangay of Banaue, are widely considered the area’s most striking. From Banaue or Batad, you can hike through stunning terraces to roaring waterfalls and bucolic villages where inhabitants still practise animal sacrifice and other traditional Ifugao customs.

Baler: 7½hrs

Frolova_Elena/Shutterstock ©

6 Baler 2 DAYS

Charlie does surf. Return to the lowlands and set your sights on Baler (pictured), a remote beach town best known as the location of the surfing scene in Apocalypse Now. The surfboards that were left here, post-filming, kick-started a lively surfing scene, although the waves can be fickle. Baler is also the jump-off point for jungle hikes in the surrounding Northern Sierra Madre National Park.

MDV Edwards/Shutterstock ©

ITINERARIES

Visayan Odyssey

Allow: 10 days Distance: 570km

If it’s white sand, rum and coconuts you’re after, look no further than the jigsaw puzzle of central islands known as the Visayas. Hopping among palm-fringed paradises, you might just decide to give it all up and go on doing this forever. No advance planning required here – just board that first ferry and follow your nose.

Boracay | Artyooran/Shutterstock ©

1 Bohol 2 DAYS

The perfect introduction to the Visayas, Bohol offers travellers a wealth of options both on and off the beaten track. Attractions include endearing little primates, the quirky Chocolate Hills, world-class diving and snorkelling, and river (pictured) and jungle escapades. Panglao Island, site of the newish airport, makes a convenient and fun base with a wealth of accommodation options and a decent nightlife.

Siquijor: 1½hrs

Matyas Rehak/Shutterstock ©

2 Siquijor 2 DAYS

Renowned for its witches and healers, Siquijor has blossomed into a backpacker haven with its mix of lovely scenery and excellent-value beachfront accommodation. With your own motorbike, you can travel around the island’s 72km coastal ring road in a day and explore beaches, colonial-era relics, waterfalls (pictured), caves and charming villages. Don’t forget your snorkelling gear, as there are myriad reefs to explore.

Dumaguete: 1 hrs

Wirestock/getty images ©

3 Dumaguete 2 DAY

Dumaguete is the base for exploring the adventure wonderland of Southern Negros. Fan out to marvellous hiking, beaches and diving within a few clicks of the city. Apo Island, with a few lonely resorts on an utterly isolated stretch of sand, is a top dive and snorkelling site (pictured) that teems with sea turtles. North of town, Bais beckons with dolphin- and whale-watching in the Tañon Strait.

Moalboal: 2½hrs

slavadubrovin/getty images ©

4 Moalboal 1 DAY

Heading over to the island of Cebu and driving north, your first stop is at this small but lively coastal resort. More adventure awaits here in the form of canyoning among the many rivers and waterfalls outside of town. For snorkellers and scuba divers, a stupendous coral wall directly offshore attracts turtles and the famous sardine run of Panagsama Beach (pictured).

Cebu City: 2½hrs

Keikoh/Shutterstock ©

5 Cebu City 1 DAY

The capital of the Visayas, Cebu City is a bustling metropolis, a three-million-strong conurbation. It has a fascinating history – it was on nearby Mactan Island that Magellan was slain by the mighty Chief Lapu-Lapu. Explore that history through museums (pictured) and fortresses, or go island hopping in the Bohol Sea off Mactan. Come evening, sample regional delicacies and check out the many bars and clubs.

Boracay: 2½hrs

Richie Chan/Shutterstock ©

6 Boracay 2 DAYS

Divine, endless White Beach plays second fiddle to none – yes, there are crowds, but solace can be found at the north and south ends of Boracay’s signature attraction. Around the diminutive island, quieter beaches lure those willing to explore a bit. The crown jewel of Philippine beach resorts is also a haven for sporty types, with kite-surfing, golf, diving and plenty of beach sports available.

Flora Tio Borci/Shutterstock ©

ITINERARIES

Palawan or Bust

Alllow: 7 days Distance: 530km

Palawan is a mini highlight reel of the best the Philippines has to offer. The country’s star attraction lends itself to easy north–south exploration: from the wrecks, islands and lakes of Coron and the towering limestone cliffs of El Nido and Bacuit Bay, to laid-back Port Barton and the Subterranean River beyond.

Coron Island | Maria Swärd/getty images ©

1 Coron 2 DAYS

Fly into Coron town, on Busuanga Island, the main jumping-off point for the Calamian Islands – a bona fide adventurer’s paradise, with wreck diving (pictured), kayaking, boat cruises and motorbiking leading the way. It’s a bountiful archipelago filled with white-sand beaches, coral reefs, dense rainforests, mangrove swamps and the crystal-clear lakes of its trophy piece, Coron Island.

El Nido: 3½hrs

unterwegs/Shutterstock ©

2 El Nido 2 DAYS

El Nido is the primary base for exploring Palawan’s crown jewel, the stunning Bacuit Archipelago. Limiting yourself to island-hopping would be a mistake, however. The El Nido area is a hotbed for adventure sports, with burgeoning surf, kitesurfing and sea kayaking scenes, plus diving with manta rays. The beauty of El Nido’s beaches is unmatched in the Philippines, while the nightlife is fun and frivolous.

Port Barton: 3½hrs

Matteo Colombo/getty images ©

3 Port Barton 1 DAY

Careful about visiting Port Barton, lest you remain longer than planned. Set on a small, attractive cove, the down-to-earth backpacker haven has some fine islands in the bay and good snorkelling. Several places along the beach rent out sea kayaks and stand-up paddleboards for DIY explorers. A new coastal road makes it easy to explore neighbouring San Vicente’s aptly named Long Beach (pictured).

Sabang: 3½hrs

N8Allen/Shutterstock ©

4 Sabang 1 DAY

Tiny Sabang, a barangay of distant Puerto Princesa, has a beautiful beach, huge tracts of pristine jungle and the navigable Subterranean River, which winds through an awesome cave before emptying into the sea. To deepen the well-hyped experience, hike at least one way to the national park entrance through old growth rainforest, spotting monkeys (pictured) and huge monitor lizards.

Puerto Princesa: 1½hrs

Photoestetica/Shutterstock ©

5 Puerto Princesa 1 DAY

The island-hopping out of Palawan’s busy capital may not interest you after a week spent north, but Puerto Princesa nonetheless presents an agreeable finishing line, with a decent food scene, some nightlife along main drag Rizal Ave and relaxing boutique hotels. There are several worthwhile diversions in and around town, including historical sights and, if you time it right, dolphin and whale-shark spotting in Honda Bay.

Patrickroque01/Wikimedia/CC BY-SA 4.0 ©

WHEN TO GO

Dry season works best – that’s November to May in the west, April to October in the east (barring a typhoon).

November to April is the high season and is also the dry season on the western seaboard, including Manila, Boracay and Palawan. The central Visayas have less-defined seasons, but like the rest of the country are coolest and most pleasant during winter. Siargao and the east coast get showers from December to mid-March.

Rising temperatures through April and May herald the onset of the rains on the west coast as the dry season begins on the east coast. But be on the lookout for typhoons from June to December – dozens of them swoop in from the east, often causing days of torrential rain throughout the country, even if they don’t make landfall. Remain flexible during this time and prepare to reroute.

No matter which coast you are on, accommodation prices drop 30% in resort areas from June to October, while many resorts triple rates around New Year’s and before Easter.

Monsoon, Moalboal | Neil Bussey/shutterstock ©

I LIVE HERE

RAINBOW WARRIOR

Ramon Manotok heads Kingfisher Resort, ground zero for kitesurfers and windsurfers in Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte. @kingfisher.ph

Located on the tip of Luzon, Pagudpud has a distinct microclimate. During the amihan (northeast monsoon), it can be bright and sunny on Saud Beach, but if you drive just 10km east to Blue Lagoon, it’s pouring rain and blowing 30 knots. During habagat (southwest monsoon), Saud Beach gets a lot more rain than points east. One result of the crazy mix of sun and rain is lots and lots of rainbows! Pagudpud probably gets more rainbows than anywhere else in the Philippines.

MONSOONS

Climate in the Philippines is driven by the monsoons – specifically the amihan (northeast monsoon), which prevails from November to April, and the habagat (southwest monsoon) of May to October. The amihan’s northeast winds bring cooler, drier air while the habagat brings higher temps and off-the-charts humidity.

Weather Through the Year (Boracay)

JANUARY

Ave daytime max: 25-28°C

Days of rainfall: 11-12

MARCH

Ave daytime max: 27-30°C

Days of rainfall: 6-7

MAY

Ave daytime max: 31-33°C

Days of rainfall: 12-13

JULY

Ave daytime max: 29-31°C

Days of rainfall: 23-24

SEPTEMBER

Ave daytime max: 29-31°C

Days of rainfall: 23-24

NOVEMBER

Ave daytime max: 28-30°C

Days of rainfall: 18-19

MICROCLIMATES

Larger and/or mountainous islands such as Mindoro have distinct microclimates driven by the interplay of the amihan and habagat. Mindoro’s west coast sees heavy rains during the southwesterly habagat while the east coast, protected by mountains, is much drier. The pattern is reversed during the amihan.

The Main Events

Ati-Atihan Festival The granddaddy of all Philippine fiestas is a raucous, weeklong street party in Kalibo dubbed the Philippines’ ‘Mardi Gras’ (with which it coincides). January

Holy Week Everything shuts down and resort prices hit ‘superpeak’ levels during the ‘Holy Week’ leading up to Easter Sunday. Sinakulo (passion plays) are staged throughout the country while in San Fernando (Luzon) the Good Friday crucifixion ceremony sees devotees nailed to wooden crosses. March or April

All Saints’ Day Families laden with food gather at local cemeteries across the country to spend the night remembering their departed loved ones. It’s