Step Into Crochet: Crocheted Sock Techniques--from Basic to Beyond!
By Rohn Strong
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About this ebook
Step into Crochet is the most comprehensive guide to creating crocheted socks. Author Rohn Strong shares 18 patterns for cozy socks, along with a wide variety of techniques, in this must-have reference and pattern book.
The first section of Step into Crochet focuses on construction methods: you'll learn basic toe-up and cuff-down construction, while being introduced to a variety of heel and toe treatments. Plus, you'll find out what makes a certain heel/toe combination perfect for socks!
The pattern section includes 18 socks ranging from basic ribbed and simple socks (great for customizing) to more technique-based pieces, focusing on colorwork, lace, cables, and motifs.
Whether you're ready to jump into crocheting socks feet first, or just dipping your toe in to try out a few fun patterns, Step into Crochet is your go-to resource.
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Step Into Crochet - Rohn Strong
INTRODUCTION
Ask most crocheters if they’ve ever crocheted a sock and most of them will tell you one of two things:
1. Yes, but they never fit, so I gave up.
or…
2. No, but I’ve always wanted to!
These answers inspired me to write this book. While crocheters have loved crocheting socks for years, and many have done so successfully, an equal number have found the process challenging and frustrating. I was one of those people.
The very first pair of crochet socks I whipped up didn’t fit. I didn’t know what I did. I bought the exact yarn, worked the pattern just as written, even made a gauge swatch. The problem?
The pattern wasn’t written with someone with thick ankles in mind. It was written for the average crocheter.
I’m anything but average —which meant I needed to adjust the pattern to fit me.
But I just didn’t find what I needed anywhere. So, I made it up. Tried a few things, and they worked. The result was my very first published sock pattern, called Dowding Socks, which is still popular to this day.
Step into Crochet was born out of this ingenuity. It is written to help you crochet socks that fit you by teaching you all there is to know about crocheted socks. From proper measurement and stitch construction to yarn and customization options, I’ve taken the guesswork out of the equation.
This book includes 18 patterns, each designed to be unique and interesting while including room for modification. I didn’t skimp on the details, either. You’ll find cables, colorwork, and lace!
I also wrote four basic patterns that use the two recommended stitches for well-fitting socks, two toe-up patterns and two cuff-down patterns. These are perfect for getting your feet wet and customizing to your heart’s content.
I wrote Step into Crochet for one reason: I want you to be able to create custom socks that fit your feet and are comfortable. The information in this book will make sure you can do that.
Crochet on!
CHAPTER 1
CROCHETING SOCKS THAT FIT
Crocheting socks is simple once you know the secrets to well-fitting socks. From measuring your foot to choosing your yarn, many factors go into creating custom-fit crochet socks.
NOT TOO LOOSE, NOT TOO TIGHT—SOCKS THAT ARE JUST RIGHT
The number one question asked by new sock crocheters is
How can I make my socks fit?
The answer to that question is long and varied. To understand how to make a sock fit, you need to know the different parts of a crocheted sock, the many measurements of your foot, and how to adjust a sock pattern to accommodate your actual feet.
MEASURING FOR THE PERFECT SIZE
When reading sock patterns, you’ll notice that almost always give two finished values: the foot circumference and the ankle circumference. Although an average fit can be achieved using these measurements, a custom fit can in no way be guaranteed. Other patterns completely reject the finished measurements and include only the standard small, medium, large, and extra large labels. If no final measurements are given, you should approach these patterns with caution.
Some designers may have a different view as to what these standard sizes are. If a pattern is written to crochet to fit
and doesn’t give you the actual finished measurements of the sock, you should skip it. These measurements are given for you to correctly choose the perfect size for your feet.
The best way to determine your sock size is to measure your foot. You need specific measurements if you want the sock to fit your foot perfectly. Socks should be worked with negative ease—they should be crocheted a bit smaller than your actual foot size.
Most designers use four standard measurements to determine size: the circumferences of the foot, ankle, and gusset plus the length of the foot. They also include three more measurements for people with shapely legs or non-average feet: the circumference of the calf, the heel diagonal, and the length of the toes.
A. Foot circumference: the circumference around the ball of the foot.
B. Ankle circumference: the circumference around the narrowest part of the ankle.
C. Gusset circumference: the circumference around the arch of the foot, just in front of the heel.
D. Foot length: the length of the foot, from the tip of the longest toe to the back of the heel.
E. Low calf circumference: the circumference of the leg, measured 6 inches (15 cm) up from the ground.
F. Heel diagonal: the circumference of the diagonal from the top of the foot at the front of the ankle to the back of the heel, at the floor.
G. Toe length: the length of the longest toe.
STRETCH FOR FIT
Socks are meant to stretch. If you were to grab your favorite pair of store-bought socks from your sock drawer, you would undoubtedly discover that these socks are quite a bit smaller around than your actual foot circumference. Manufactured socks are usually composed of a cotton/polyester blend with a stretch material such as latex rubber or elastic. This allows the sock to stretch to fit a wide variety of feet, enabling manufacturers to make a limited number of sizes that work for nearly all customers.
Choosing a sock pattern based on such a sock will often, if not always, lead you to crocheting a sock that neither fits nor feels good. So, our socks must be crocheted to a size that is closer to our actual foot measurements. While commercial socks may have negative ease around 30 percent—that is, 30 percent smaller than your foot measurement—crocheted socks need to stay within 5 percent negative ease, or 5 percent smaller than your foot measurement.
For the optimal fit, feel, and function, a sock needs to measure 5 percent, or ¹⁄2 (1.3 cm), less than the finished foot circumference. The foot length should measure 10 percent, or 1
(2.5 cm), less than the finished foot length. This is due to crochet's tendency to stretch vertically but not horizontally. This is also assuming that the sole of the sock is constructed out of a solid fabric.
TAKING MEASUREMENTS
Because your foot is unique, you need to take your own measurements. Use the chart below to record your actual foot measurements.
The measuring process takes less than five minutes. All you need is a simple, flexible cloth tape measure, a new or rarely used one preferably. This will help ensure that your measurements are accurate.
FOOT CIRCUMFERENCE
Find the widest part of your foot (avoiding any bunions or corns) and measure the circumference of your foot. This is usually the area right behind the toes often referred to as the ball
of the foot.
When choosing a size, you will need to look for a finished sock circumference that is ¹⁄2 to 1
(1.3 to 2.5 cm) smaller, depending on the pattern. While the rule I stated above says about 5 percent, this isn't always an option. If you reside outside of that 5 percent, choosing a size within the 5 to 10 percent range will result in a sock that fits well but isn’t too tight.
ANKLE CIRCUMFERENCE
Locate your anklebone (the rounded bones on either side of your foot) and wrap the tape measuring around your ankle. This measurement is needed to ensure a fit that keeps the sock up. Crochet socks often tend to bag around the ankle because many crochet patterns assume the ankle-to-foot circumference ratio is the same; this is not always the case, however.
Your ankle circumference tends to be larger than your foot circumference. This is where crocheters have issues getting their socks to fit. If your ankle and foot circumferences are similar, you can simply choose a size that is 5 percent smaller than the larger measurement. However, if either of the measurements is more than ¹⁄2" (1.3 cm) wide, plan to customize the sock when you crochet it.
For example, if your ankle is 9¹⁄2 (24 cm) around and your foot is 8¹⁄2
(21.5 cm) around, you could work the leg following the directions for a sock one size larger and the foot one size smaller, decreasing the stitches at the gusset. Or, if your foot measures more than your ankle, simply work a foot from a size larger and the leg a size smaller. This will ensure the finished sock fits your measurements perfectly.
GUSSET CIRCUMFERENCE
Locate the area just in front of your heel. Measure the circumference around the arch of the foot. This measurement is taken to ensure the gusset will fit correctly. The gusset is already a tricky part of the sock, and by adding a bit of fabric on either side of the foot by picking up stitches, you change the fit of the sock. This can either create a baggy area in the sock or an area that is too tight. By staggering or rushing the decreases/increases, you can alter the fit of the sock.
I recommend working the sock to the gusset and trying the sock on after the gusset is complete. Although a small amount of bagginess or pull is fine, a significant amount needs to be dealt with immediately.
FOOT LENGTH
Standing with your feet flat on the ground, measure from the back of your heel to the tip of your longest toe.
Foot length is one of the two main sizes a pattern offers at the beginning. Most of the time, though, this measurement is completely controlled by you. You can choose to work the sock