Fodor's London 2025
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About this ebook
Whether you want to pose in front of Big Ben's Elizabeth Tower, explore the Tower of London, or visit the royal family at Buckingham Palace, the local Fodor's travel experts in London are here to help! Fodor's London guidebook is packed with maps, carefully curated recommendations, and everything else you need to simplify your trip-planning process and make the most of your time. This new edition has an easy-to-read layout, fresh information, and beautiful color photos.
Fodor's London travel guide includes:
- AN ILLUSTRATED ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES GUIDE to the top things to see and do
- MULTIPLE ITINERARIES to effectively organize your days and maximize your time
- MORE THAN 15 DETAILED MAPS and a FREE PULL-OUT MAP to help you navigate confidently
- COLOR PHOTOS throughout to spark your wanderlust!
- HONEST RECOMMENDATIONS FROM LOCALS on the best sights, restaurants, hotels, nightlife, shopping, performing arts, activities, side-trips, and more
- PHOTO-FILLED “BEST OF” FEATURES on “London's Best Museums”, “London's Best Royal Sites”, “London's Best Historic Pubs”, and more
- TRIP-PLANNING TOOLS AND PRACTICAL TIPS including when to go, getting around, beating the crowds, and saving time and money
- HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL INSIGHTS providing rich context on the local people, politics, art, architecture, cuisine, geography and more
- SPECIAL FEATURES on the British Museum and the Tower of London
- LOCAL WRITERS to help you find the under-the-radar gems
- UP-TO-DATE COVERAGE ON: Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, the Tower of London, St. Paul's Cathedral, the British Museum, the Tate Modern, Shakespeare's Globe, Hyde Park, Houses of Parliament, Kensington Palace, Windsor Castle, Hampton Court, and more.
Planning on visiting the rest of Great Britain? Check out Fodor's Essential England, Fodor's Essential Scotland, and Fodor's Essential Great Britain.
*Important note for digital editions: The digital edition of this guide does not contain all the images or text included in the physical edition.
ABOUT FODOR'S AUTHORS: Each Fodor's Travel Guide is researched and written by local experts. Fodor's has been offering expert advice for all tastes and budgets for over 80 years. For more travel inspiration, you can sign up for our travel newsletter at fodors.com/newsletter/signup, or follow us @FodorsTravel on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. We invite you to join our friendly community of travel experts at fodors.com/community to ask any other questions and share your experience with us!
Fodor's Travel Guides
For over 80 years, Fodor's Travel has been a trusted resource offering expert travel advice for every stage of a traveler's trip. We hire local writers who know their destinations better than anyone else, allowing us to provide the best travel recommendations for all tastes and budgets in over 7,500 worldwide destinations. Our books make it possible for every trip to be a trip of a lifetime.
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Fodor's London 2025 - Fodor's Travel Guides
20 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES
London offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.
1 Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament
The neo-Gothic Houses of Parliament contain the House of Commons and the House of Lords (the legislative bodies of the United Kingdom’s government) and the giant clock tower known as Big Ben (one of London’s most-beloved icons). (Ch. 3)
2 Drinking in Historic Pubs
The history of London’s taverns and pubs is the history of the city itself. Grab a pint or a gin cocktail, and get to know how the locals live. (Ch. 3–14)
3 British Museum
It would take a lifetime to do justice to the extraordinary collection (spanning 8 million artifacts from over 2 million years) at Britain’s most-visited museum. (Ch. 6)
4 Hampton Court Palace
One of Britain’s grandest royal palaces, Hampton Court contains some of the finest Tudor architecture in the world and is imbued with an overwhelming sense of history. (Ch. 14)
5 Gallery-Hopping in East London
With one of the highest concentrations of artists in Europe, East London is fertile ground for some serious contemporary art gallery hopping, from Whitechapel to Hackney. (Ch. 8)
6 Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens
London is famous for its awesome Royal Parks, and contiguous Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens are perfect for escaping the hustle and bustle of the city. (Ch. 10)
7 The Markets
From gourmet food to antiques, you can find nearly everything at London’s most famous street markets: Portobello Road Market in Notting Hill and Borough Market on the South Bank. (Ch. 9, 11)
8 London Eye
For an unrivaled bird’s-eye view of the metropolis and beyond, take a ride on one of the world’s tallest observation wheels. (Ch. 9)
9 Afternoon Tea
For a quintessential English ritual, enjoy a pot of tea served in bone china alongside finger sandwiches, fruit scones, and cakes at one of the city’s fanciest hotels. (Ch. 1)
10 Shakespeare’s Globe
A replica of the original Globe Theatre just yards from where Shakespeare’s Elizabethan playhouse stood, the modern-day Globe still hosts open-air performances of the Bard’s plays. (Ch. 9)
11 Indian Food on Brick Lane
Thanks to successive waves of immigrants, Whitechapel’s Brick Lane is famous for London’s highest concentration of curry houses and some of the best Indian food outside India. (Ch. 8)
12 Victoria and Albert Museum
With a vast collection of 2.8 million objects, the V&A is one of the world’s greatest museums of decorative arts and design. (Ch. 10)
13 Tate Modern
A must-visit for global art lovers, Tate Modern wows with its extensive collection of constantly rotating modern art. (Ch. 9)
14 St. Paul’s Cathedral
With the second-largest cathedral dome in the world, St. Paul’s is a towering masterpiece of English baroque design, both inside and out. (Ch. 7)
15 Covent Garden
Covent Garden is considered the heart of London, thanks to its markets, pubs, restaurants, museums, theaters, boutiques, street entertainers, and more. (Ch. 5)
16 Buckingham Palace
The official residence of the British monarch is opulently filled with priceless tapestries, artwork, and marble and gilt galore. (Ch. 3)
17 Theater in the West End
Thanks to some of the world’s best actors and directors (and the most historic theaters), London’s contributions to the theater world give Broadway a run for its money. (Ch. 5)
18 National Gallery
With more than 2,300 of the world’s masterpieces, this museum is considered Britain’s greatest art collection. (Ch. 3)
19 Tower of London
With a gory 950-year history of beheadings, imprisonments, and torture, myths and legends shroud England’s most perfect medieval fortress and home of the Crown Jewels. (Ch. 7)
20 Westminster Abbey
The site of all but two royal coronations since 1066, the Westminster Abbey is steeped in history—from tombs of monarchs to monuments for nobles, statesmen, and poets. (Ch. 3)
WHAT’S WHERE
dingbat Westminster and St. James’s. This is the place to embrace your inner tourist. Snap pictures of the mounted Horse Guards, watch kids clambering onto the monumental bronze lions in Trafalgar Square, and visit stacks of world-class art in the fantastic national galleries. Brave the crowds to peruse historic Westminster Abbey and its ancient narrative in stone.
dingbat Mayfair and Marylebone. You may not have the wallet for London’s most prestigious shops, but remember, window-shopping in historic Mayfair is free. Meanwhile, chic boutiques in Marylebone are a refreshing change from gaudy Oxford Street a few blocks south.
dingbat Soho and Covent Garden. More sophisticated than seedy these days, the heart of London puts Theatreland, strip joints, Chinatown, and the trendiest of film studios side by side. Hold tight through the hectic hordes in Leicester Square. Covent Garden’s historic paved piazza is one of the most raffishly enjoyable parts of the city.
dingbat Bloomsbury and Holborn. Once the bluestocking and intellectual center of London, elegant 17th- and 18th-century Bloomsbury is now also a mixed business district. The British Museum has enough amazing objets d’art and artifacts to keep you busy for a month; the Law Courts, the University of London, and quaint, trendy Lamb’s Conduit Street are worth a gander.
dingbat The City. London’s Wall Street might be the oldest part of the capital, but thanks to new skyscrapers and a sleek Millennium Bridge, it also looks like the newest. History fans won’t be short-changed, however: head for St. Paul’s Cathedral, Tower Bridge, and the Tower of London.
dingbat East London. Once famed for the 19th-century slums immortalized by Charles Dickens and Jack the Ripper, today the area is a fulcrum of London’s contemporary art scene and a hip party zone. Dive headfirst into the eclectic wares at Spitalfields Market and along Brick Lane, and take in Columbia Road’s much-loved early-morning flower market.
dingbat South of the Thames. The Southbank Centre—including the National Theatre and Royal Festival Hall, plus nearby Shakespeare’s Globe and Tate Modern—showcases the capital’s crowning artistic glories. Or put it all in aerial perspective from the 72nd floor of the Shard.
dingbat Kensington, Chelsea, Knightsbridge, and Belgravia. Although the many boutiques of King’s Road have lost much of their heady ’60s swagger, the free museums are as awe-inspiring as ever. Kensington High Street is slightly more affordable than King’s Road; otherwise, flash your cash at London’s snazziest department stores, Harrods and Harvey Nichols.
dingbat Notting Hill and Bayswater. North of Kensington, around Portobello Road, Notting Hill Gate is a trendsetting couple of square miles of photographers’ galleries, indie bookshops, fashionable boutiques, and hip restaurants. Nearby, Bayswater mixes eclectic fashions, fresh organic food shops, and gaudy Middle Eastern and Chinese restaurants.
dingbat Hampstead, Regent’s Park, and Camden Town. Surrounded by elegant, stucco-fronted terraces
—mansions as big as palaces—designed by 19th-century architect John Nash, Regent’s Park is a Regency extravaganza. The nearby ancient hilltop villages of Hampstead and Primrose Hill attract celebrity residents, while Camden Town provides the area with a much-needed hip, alternative bent.
dingbat Greenwich. The Royal Observatory, Sir Christopher Wren’s architecture, the Old Royal Naval College, British clipper ship Cutty Sark, and the prime meridian all add up to one of the best Thames-side excursions beyond central London.
dingbat Chiswick, Kew, and Richmond. As an idyllic retreat from the city, stroll around London’s historic gardens and enjoy the stately homes of Chiswick, Kew, and Richmond. Better yet, take a gentle river cruise and end up at famous Hampton Court Palace.
London Today
THE DEATH OF THE QUEEN
The passing of Queen Elizabeth II in September 2022 was a seismic event. For most Londoners, the Queen was the only monarch they’d ever known; just six months earlier, she had celebrated her Platinum Jubilee (70 years on the throne). For many, even those with antimonarchical leanings, she was a respected figure, representing continuity and a living link to a nostalgic past—a fact evidenced by the 10-mile-long queues to see her lying in state at Westminster Abbey during the nation’s period of mourning. It’s unlikely that her son and successor, King Charles III (formerly Prince Charles), will garner the same kind of loyalty; a growing antimonarchist sentiment among younger generations—as well as talk of various Commonwealth countries considering independence referendums—suggest that the British Monarchy could be set for some difficult years ahead.
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
Despite being horribly expensive, you’ll notice that the public transport in London is generally nicer and more reliable than mass transit in other major cities. The much-delayed, £19-billion high-speed Crossrail underground railway—known as the Elizabeth line, after Queen Elizabeth II—is an epic feat of engineering that shortens the journey time for east to west trips. With 10 new stations and quick trips linking Paddington Station with Heathrow Airport and Canary Wharf in the east, even the notorious overcongestion eased when it finally opened in 2022. In addition, the Night Tube now runs around-the-clock on weekends on five key Underground lines.
While London’s popular bike-sharing program, Santander Cycles, which has more than 11,000 bikes at some 700-odd docking stations, is the original London bike scheme, it is the sight of the ubiquitous white-and-green Lime bikes that now dominate the city’s streets. Love them or loathe them (and there’s plenty of support for both sides), the electric bikes are here to stay—for now—and the presence of an electric motor and pricing plans for regular users (you’ll need the app) make them a helpful way to navigate the city.
POLITICS
With its heady mix of modernity, migrants, and money, London is historically a pretty liberal city. It elected its first Muslim mayor in 2016, Sadiq Khan, a former London MP, human rights lawyer, and son of a London bus driver, but the city keeps adjusting to the fallout from the 2016 Brexit vote. The majority of Londoners voted to remain in the European Union, and many of the city’s EU-origin residents, students, and workers have been affected by the changes to their legal rights to live, work, and study in the United Kingdom post-Brexit. Many Londoners take issue with the pro-Brexit, anti-immigration leanings of the current Conservative leadership (led by Prime Minister Rishi Sunak, the first person of color to hold the office). But whatever the ongoing fallout from the United Kingdom’s departure from the EU, London carries on as ever—vibrant, vital, diverse, and open for business.
NEW UPGRADES AND EXHIBITS
Some of London’s top cultural attractions are investing heavily in new galleries, exhibits, and extensions, plus assorted shiny new bells and whistles. Although COVID-19 pushed back the Victoria and Albert Museum’s ambitious new project, V&A East is now set to open in 2025 in Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. After a three-year renovation, the National Portrait Gallery reopened in summer 2023, delivering a new wing, increased accessibility, careful renovation of its antique spaces, and a fresh presentation of its exquisite collection.
Elsewhere, the major £56-million revamp of the eminent Royal Academy of Arts in Piccadilly remains a sight to behold, especially the slick new bridge, which is something of an exhibit in itself. After a three-year, top-down renovation, the Museum of the Home (formerly the Geffrye Museum) returned with a slew of new spaces that tackle the evolution of home interiors along with a new program of events that takes in everything from community-focused talks to weekend yard sales.
For a dose of London goriness not quite as family-friendly as the London Dungeon, visit the Hunterian Museum, which reopened in 2023 after a six-year redevelopment. The museum is named after the 18th-century anatomist and surgeon John Hunter, whose huge collection of specimens are on display here. Think preserved body parts, dissected animals, antique surgical instruments, and ephemera in a museum that is really much more fun than it sounds.
Another grand reopening that is firmly child-friendly is the Young V&A in Bethnal Green, a pure celebration of creativity and imagination, back after a £13-million revamp. Formerly the Museum of Childhood, the Young V&A hosts a huge collection of children’s toys from through the ages and curates an excellent program of events and exhibitions.
PRIVATE TRANSPORT
While most tourists don’t rent cars when visiting London, anyone planning to drive should be aware of the Ultra Low Emission Zone (ULEZ), a daily tax that was extended to all boroughs of Greater London in 2023 in an effort to remove higher polluting vehicles from the roads. Most hired cars should comply with emissions levels and be exempt but make sure to check (further information can be found at wtfl.gov.uk). The controversial scheme, launched by Mayor Sadiq Khan, has its detractors, but ULEZ is an integral part of London’s commitment to addressing the global air pollution crisis.
INFLATION AND BREXIT
A combination of geopolitical events around the globe and a chaotic government that saw three Prime Ministers in as many years has had a harsh effect on the U.K. economy, fueling inflation and creating a cost of living crisis. The one bright spot in that is for American tourists who will find that the American dollar has gained strength against the British pound, making it slightly more affordable to visit London than in recent years.
The one place spending money may not stretch quite so far is hotels. The country’s withdrawal from the EU and its freedom of movement means that the Brexit drain is still keenly felt in the hospitality industry, with many hotels yet to bounce back to full capacity postpandemic, due in part to an inability to fill positions. Along with other factors, this has caused a noticeable jump in the cost of hotel rooms across the capital.
What to Eat and Drink in London
FULL ENGLISH BREAKFAST
Consisting of eggs (usually fried or scrambled), sausages, bacon, fried tomatoes, black pudding, baked beans, mushrooms, and toast, the classic Full English breakfast is best enjoyed with a classic builder’s tea on the side to cut through the greasy, calorific mass.
FISH-AND-CHIPS
England’s most famous dish is available throughout the city and comes in many shapes and sizes. Best enjoyed out of a hot paper wrap from a typical fish-and-chips shop, aka a chippy (and generally takeaway only), the meal should be eaten with a miniature wooden fork for extra authenticity. The fish is usually cod (but haddock, skate, and rock are not uncommon), covered in a crispy deep-fried batter. Chips are thick-cut fried potatoes, and sides can include anything from pickles and pickled eggs to mushy peas and curry sauce.
AFTERNOON TEA
Typically enjoyed between an early lunch and late dinner, afternoon tea is a very British way to spend your midday. A true afternoon tea consists of cakes, pastries, finger sandwiches sans crusts, and scones with jam and clotted cream displayed on a tiered stand and served with pots of loose-leaf tea. In many establishments, you can expect a tea menu (and the fanciest might even have a tea sommelier) where you can consider the likes of Earl Grey and Assam (the favorite teas of the late Queen Elizabeth II), Darjeeling, and Ceylon.
CURRY
The 1970s saw a wave of Bangladeshi immigrants arriving in London and setting up restaurants along Brick Lane and in the surrounding area; competition clearly (and luckily for London diners) bred success. These days, there’s a mix of Indian, Bangladeshi, and Pakistani restaurants, all serving some of the finest curry anywhere outside Asia. Aside from classics like vindaloo (super-hot), madras, and tandoori meats, the range of sweet, salty, spicy, and sour curries makes it one of London’s best-loved cuisines.
CRAFT BEER
Although real ale (which is relatively flat and warm) still has its fans, the craft beer revolution has been the heart of London’s beer scene for the last decade. Inspiration from American IPAs and their heady hops awakened London’s senses, leading to a mass of new breweries supplying the demand for eclectic brews.
SUNDAY ROAST
Roast potatoes, roasted meat (chicken, beef, pork, or lamb), assorted vegetables, cauliflower cheese, Yorkshire pudding, and assorted condiments, like mint sauce, bread sauce, English mustard, horseradish, and cranberry jelly, make up some of the most important elements of a traditional Sunday roast, a meal that should leave you ready to sleep within 30 minutes of eating it. Every pub in London serves a Sunday roast—and if it doesn’t, then it can hardly call itself a pub—and the quality ranges dramatically depending on the establishment.
PIMM’S CUP
Best enjoyed while outside in the sun, Pimm’s is a gin-based liqueur typically mixed with lemonade and ice, then filled with sliced strawberries, cucumber, and mint (and orange if you’re feeling fancy). Popular at weddings, regattas, Wimbledon, horse-racing tracks, and cricket matches, it is the British version of the Aperol Spritz and even more refreshing than water.
SRI LANKAN HOPPERS
When the craze for hoppers hit London sometime around 2015, it cast a spotlight on the capital’s already semi-established Sri Lankan food scene. Today, the concept of a rice-and-coconut pancake filled with curry, relish, and fried eggs is a beloved London dish. Find them in any of Hoppers’s three locations or at Paradise, a hip restaurant in the heart of Soho.
GIN
Historically London’s most popular spirit, gin has been rejuvenated over the last decade thanks to a range of small-batch distilleries joining the likes of established London brands like Hendrick’s, Tanqueray, and Sipsmith. The ginaissance
is very much in vogue, and visitors can expect to find full-on gin menus and a variety of tonics.
SALT BEEF BEIGELS
Cured in brine and slow-boiled for hours, the delicacy of salt beef belongs sandwiched between two beigel (yes, that’s bagel to you Americans) halves, slathered in hot English mustard, and topped with pickles. The sandwich is available throughout the city in locations like the famous Brass Rail in Selfridges department store or at Brick Lane’s historic 24-hour Beigel Bake, where every beigel comes with a dollop of East London charm.
PASTA FROM PADELLA
Although pasta in London is well regarded, it’s unusual to see huge crowds lining up for the chance to sample well-crafted ravioli. But that’s the story at Padella, the Borough Market restaurant whose legendary pasta has inspired levels of hysteria not seen in the city in several years. After trying the beef shin pappardelle and simple tagliarini with garlic and chili, you’ll be ready and willing to line up to try out the rest of the menu in no time. And if the line is too long at the Borough Market location, then try the not-too-distant Shoreditch branch.
TURKISH FOOD
London’s huge Turkish community is responsible for gifting the city one of its favorite dishes—the döner kebab, a huge hunk of meat roasted on a revolving spit. Although Londoners love stopping off for late-night döner after a night of drinking, that’s just one way to consume Turkish food. For those with more sophisticated palates, head to one of the city’s many excellent Turkish ocakbasi (grill restaurants) and opt for shish (large cubes of chicken or lamb cooked on the grill), beyti (ground lamb or beef wrapped in lavash bread and topped with yogurt), and plenty of roasted red onions and pomegranate.
DIM SUM DUMPLINGS
Although Soho has lost much of its independent dining scene, next-door Chinatown is much the same as it has always been, aside from the odd new bubble tea shop or hip Sichuan joint. That means reliably good dim sum can be found throughout the neighborhood in any one of Gerard Street’s litany of restaurants; look out for the ubiquitous all-day dumpling menu.
What to Buy in London
BESPOKE SUITS
Arguably the most famous road in men’s fashion, Savile Row in Mayfair is the classic destination for all your bespoke suiting needs. A made-to-measure suit from the likes of Gieves & Hawkes or Ozwald Boateng might be quite the investment, but the quality and craftsmanship ensure a purchase that will stand the test of time.
VINTAGE SHOPPING
The booming London vintage scene is proof that one person’s trash is another’s treasure, with plenty of shops, markets, and warehouses around the city selling pre-loved clothing, shoes, and accessories. Head to Camden Market, Spitalfields Market, and best of all, Brick Lane and adjoining Cheshire Street, for the finest vintage finds in the city.
BOROUGH MARKET
Borough Market in London is like nowhere else, and the most important thing to remember before visiting is to arrive on an empty stomach. Between the coffee, deli meats, exotic vegetables, fresh bread, oysters, and cheese stands, you can almost fill up on samples alone. There are also plenty of condiments, jams, spices, and snacks to bring home with you.
TOYS FROM BENJAMIN POLLOCK’S TOYSHOP
Though no child can say no to a visit to toy megastore Hamleys, adults will prefer the vintage appeal of Benjamin Pollock’s Toyshop. This boutique is all about beautiful pop-up books, wooden yo-yos, and classic games.
UMBRELLAS FROM JAMES SMITH & SONS
Although stories of relentless London rainfall are exaggerated, it’s fair to say an umbrella will still come in handy on a trip here. If you’d rather skip the flimsy hotel parasol for a refined brolly, perhaps with a chic polished-elm handle and a sturdy steel frame, you’ll find the emblematic James Smith & Sons a dream come true. The Smith family has been keeping Londoners dry since 1830.
ANTIQUE BOOKS
The famous bookshop Foyles might have once used its old books in place of sandbags to protect its roof during the Blitz, but today the city has nothing but respect for the treasures found in its many rare and used-book shops. Still an exceptional store, Foyles has left antiquarian titles behind, but bibliophiles can source rare treasures in the likes of Hatchards, Maggs Bros. Ltd., and Peter Harrington.
PORTOBELLO ROAD MARKET
Portobello Road Market is a hodgepodge street sale selling everything from vintage clothes to fruits and vegetables, but the glue that holds it all together is the always interesting antiques section that commands big crowds. Every Saturday, a parade of stalls lines up to sell antique goods with a sometimes dramatic range in quality—the fun is finding the best bits and engaging in a little haggling.
TEA FROM FORTNUM & MASON
If it was good enough for the late Queen Elizabeth II, then the tea selection at Fortnum & Mason should suffice for everyone else. The range of loose-leaf teas at this gourmet department store can seem endless, but you won’t go wrong by starting with the Earl Grey, known to have the Royal seal of approval. Available in tin boxes, hampers, and selection packs, tea from Fortnum & Mason makes the perfect gift.
Best Museums in London
THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
Undoubtedly the museum to have inspired more future paleontologists than any other, the Natural History Museum is the spiritual home of dinosaurs in London. The star attractions among the dino collection include a full fossil of a Tyrannosaurus rex and the skull of a Triceratops.
THE V&A MUSEUM
As the largest museum of art and design in the world, the Victoria and Albert Museum will greet you with intricate ceramic staircases, marble vaulted ceilings, and frescoed walls, all before you even begin thinking about the museum’s collection of decorative arts.
TATE BRITAIN
All regal grandeur and impressive portico architecture, the classy—not to mention super-old—Tate Britain was opened in 1897 and owns a collection spanning 500 years, with some works dating back to 1500.
THE BRITISH MUSEUM
The biggest museum in London, the British Museum is also the most popular thanks to its eclectic collection of art, curiosities, and artifacts from around the world. Covering nearly 19 acres, the space contains everything from the riches of the Roman Empire to the largest collection of Egyptian artifacts outside Egypt—and yes, that includes a 5,000-year-old mummy.
TATE MODERN
Housed in a vast former power station on the south bank of the Thames, the towering structure of Tate Modern dominates its particular section of riverfront real estate. On top of the impressive collection of modern and contemporary artists—like Picasso, Francis Bacon, David Hockney, and Duchamp—on display in the main gallery, there’s the imposing Turbine Hall and its interactive installations.
THE NATIONAL GALLERY
Instantly recognizable by its portico pillars overlooking Trafalgar Square, the National Gallery is probably the square’s second most popular cultural attraction—placing close behind its handsome lions, of course. A grand gallery that shuns contemporary art in favor of masterpieces dating from the 1300s to the 1900s, the museum’s permanent collection includes paintings by da Vinci, Caravaggio, Titian, Michelangelo, Raphael, and van Gogh.
THE NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
It may reside in the physical shadow of the larger National Gallery just around the corner, but the National Portrait Gallery is no less of a draw. Start in the Tudor and Stuart rooms, where you’ll find a lineup of all the kings and queens of England and Scotland. Don’t miss Graham Sutherland’s Churchill, the Darnley portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, and the only portrait of Shakespeare ever painted from life.
SIR JOHN SOANE’S MUSEUM
A cult institution that has gained mainstream popularity in recent years, Sir John Soane’s Museum is a museum with a difference, in that it’s a loving memorial to the late, great British architect in the shape of the perfect preservation of his former home in the heart of Holborn. A four-story town house, the home has been left untouched in accordance with Soane’s wishes upon his death in 1837.
THE SCIENCE MUSEUM
Between learning about the amazing intricacies of super-viruses, embarking on a journey into space via VR, and tracing back the history of flight, there’s not a lot left uncovered by the Science Museum.
IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUMS
Consisting of Churchill’s War Rooms; the decommissioned HMS Belfast battleship on the Thames; and the original Imperial War Museum (now IWM London), with exhibits featuring everything from Holocaust remembrance tours to war photography, the city’s outposts of the national IWM collection create a comprehensive and thoughtful take on the theme of modern conflict without necessarily celebrating war.
Best Royal Sights in London
THE TOWER OF LONDON
A royal residence, longtime vault for the Crown Jewels, and gory location of more beheadings than you could count, the Tower of London has been a little bit of everything over the years.
BUCKINGHAM PALACE
Originally built in 1703, the palace has had significant upgrades over the last 300 years to make it fit for lavish royal living. Synonymous with both Queen Victoria (the first monarch to live here) and the late Queen Elizabeth II, Buckingham Palace remains a working palace, although visitors can book guided tours of the state rooms in summer.
HAMPTON COURT PALACE
One of only two surviving palaces owned by Henry VIII, Hampton Court Palace was the home of Tudor royalty. The palace’s serene location on the Thames, amazing gardens (including the famous maze), and dramatic interiors (be sure to see the famous Great Hall) make the short trip to Hampton well worth taking.
WESTMINSTER ABBEY
Royals never have to worry about securing a wedding venue because Westminster Abbey is always ready and waiting. Since the first in 1100, 16 royal weddings have taken place amidst the stained-glass windows, weathered oil paintings, and incredible Gothic stonework of the interior. The abbey has also been the site of all but two royal coronations since 1066.
THE HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY MUSEUM
If you miss the Changing the Guard ceremony, the next best thing is a visit to the Household Cavalry Museum. Here you can see the living, working routines of the Household Cavalry—the commissioned soldiers in full ceremonial regalia that you see at the Changing the Guard ceremony—as they go about their day.
KENSINGTON PALACE
Kensington Palace has had some of the Royal Family’s biggest names as residents, with the Prince and Princess of Wales and their children continuing to call it home today. You can explore the Sunken Garden, the Queen’s State Apartments, and the King’s State Apartments on a visit.
ST. JAMES’S PALACE
While no king or queen has lived in St. James’s Palace since King William IV in the 1830s, the Tudor palace is older than Buckingham Palace and represents the most senior royal residence in the country.
KEW PALACE
Once home to King George III and Queen Charlotte, Kew Palace has been restored to its former glory and the private redbrick retreat makes for a picturesque sight surrounded by the manicured hedges and bucolic gardens of Kew. It may be the smallest of the royal palaces, but the English country house interiors are nothing short of charming.
THE QUEEN’S GALLERY
Housed within Buckingham Palace, the Queen’s Gallery displays the Royal Family’s downright huge and important collection of art, held in trust for the nation. The gallery is an amassed assortment of paintings, photography, antique furniture, and decorative arts that span the ages.
CLARENCE HOUSE
Built by John Nash, Clarence House is today home to King Charles III and the Queen Consort, Camilla, who will continue to utilize the home for the foreseeable future. The impressive whitewashed facade of the aristocratic town house mansion stands out from the crowd in its picturesque location beside St. James’s Palace and The Mall.
Best Parks and Gardens in London
ST. JAMES’S PARK
Bordered by Buckingham Palace, The Mall, and Horse Guards, St. James’s Park is London’s most whimsical royal green space. Roam the gardens, tour the lakes, and observe their own lively pod of pelicans (residents here for more than 400 years).
KEW GARDENS
Home to some of the world’s rarest threatened species and most elusive plants, the Royal Botanic Gardens are more than just an attraction, they are a sanctuary, with a historic Victorian glasshouse at their heart. The range of exhibitions, installations, theme gardens, tropical greenhouses, and treetop walkways are way more than you can fit into a day, so start your explorations early.
RICHMOND PARK
Once a favorite hunting ground of Henry VIII, Richmond Park covers close to 2,500 acres of grasslands and forest, making it the biggest of London’s Royal Parks. Any given weekend sees a rush of cyclists pushing themselves around the undulating 6.7-mile road that circles the park’s perimeter, while others enjoy walking, running, and all manner of group activities across the meadows.
HAMPSTEAD HEATH
It’s the sign of a good London summer day when the bathing ponds of Hampstead Heath are packed with fair-weather locals and tourists alike, mixing it up with the ducks. But the real allure of Hampstead Heath is its wild, roaming grassland, wooded copses, and stunning views of the city, which combine to lend the heath an unmistakable literary quality.
KENSINGTON GARDENS
Annexed to Hyde Park by the Serpentine Lake, Kensington Gardens have a quieter, more intimate appeal than their larger neighbors. Here you’ll find the Diana Memorial Playground, the famous bronze statue of Peter Pan, and, of course, the historic royal residence of Kensington Palace.
HYDE PARK
London’s most popular park, Hyde Park is home to the Serpentine Galleries and the annual Pavilion art installation, plus boating lakes, the Albert Memorial, and Speakers’ Corner.
REGENT’S PARK
On top of the gorgeous gardens, the picturesque lake and its pedalo boats, and an impressive collection of fountains and statues, Regent’s Park is also home to London Zoo.
GREENWICH PARK
There’s no park in London like Greenwich Park—after all, this is the only one of the city’s green spaces that gives visitors the chance to pose with legs astride the prime meridian line. Located outside the Royal Observatory and its planetarium, the prime meridian establishes the reference for Greenwich Mean Time and the area’s maritime history. In addition, there are green fields, orchards, stunning gardens, and some truly spectacular views of London and its Docklands.
HOLLAND PARK
A grand expanse of manicured lawns, nature trails, paths, and woodland surround the proud remains of a Jacobean mansion at the heart of Holland Park. The building suffered bomb damage during World War II, but the remaining front terrace provides a spectacular backdrop to the summertime open-air plays staged in the park. Be sure to check out the stunning Kyoto Garden, where Japanese maple trees, dahlias, and a tiered waterfall with a koi pond are some of the highlights.
Best Historic Pubs in London
THE DOG AND DUCK, SOHO
Elbow room is scant at this cramped Soho pub, but it’s well worth pushing inside to take a look around. The beautiful Victorian tiles, plush red-leather banquets, imposing double-decker bar, polished chessboard floor, and vintage mirrors will appeal to literary history hunters looking for the spirit of George Orwell’s down and out in London.
THE GEORGE INN, BOROUGH
The only pub in London owned by the National Trust, The George Inn is a fully functioning historic relic, dating back to somewhere around 1543. Not only is it one of the oldest pubs in London, but The George Inn is also the only original galleried coach house left in the city.
YE OLDE CHESHIRE CHEESE, THE CITY
Rebuilt after the 1666 Great Fire of London, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese is so old that it actually deserves its moniker. And with age comes beauty in this pub that attracted a literary crowd centuries before it became a home away from home to Fleet Street’s journalists.
THE SPANIARDS INN, HAMPSTEAD
Hampstead Heath has a smattering of pubs surrounding its boundaries, but none carry the history of The Spaniards Inn, where poets Byron and Keats were once locals. There’s also a resident ghost.
THE LAMB, BLOOMSBURY
Close enough to the West End that it can form a part of any day trip around the major sites of central London, The Lamb on Lamb’s Conduit Street is one of Bloomsbury’s finest. Walking through the door here is like entering a time warp that transports you to a simpler time when the cell phone was but a twinkle in the eye of its inventor and the art of conversation ruled.
THE HARP, COVENT GARDEN
A traditional West End pub that has changed with the times is The Harp, which supplements its physical charms with a range of about 20 real ales and craft beers on tap. There is an upstairs lounge here, but the cramped bar space below is way more fun.
THE DOVE, HAMMERSMITH
London’s oldest riverside pub north of the Thames is one of the city’s finest and perfect for a whimsical wander along the river path west of central London. With low-beamed ceilings, grand brick fireplaces, and secret rooms, The Dove couldn’t be cozier if it tried.
LAMB & FLAG, COVENT GARDEN
Tucked away in a hidden courtyard in the heart of Covent Garden, The Lamb & Flag is a beautiful old pub established in 1772 and once nicknamed The Bucket of Blood
on account of the bare-knuckle fights it hosted in its upstairs room.
THE BLACKFRIAR, THE CITY
This is a quirky wedge of a local pub filled with religious iconography, art nouveau flourishes, and a roaring fire. A touch Bavarian in theme, it dates back to 1875 and sits on the site of a former friary, hence the name.
Under-the-Radar Things to Do in London
THE MUSEUM OF THE HOME
A museum of many facets, the Museum of the Home (formerly the Geffrye Museum) in Hoxton is a nostalgic exploration of home life through the ages, from 1600 to the present day. Preserved rooms fill the quaint building and include a 1745 parlor, a re-created living room from 1935, an 1890 drawing room, and a 1630 hallway.
BERMONDSEY BEER MILE
Around 15 independent craft breweries and bottle shops are housed in the old brick railway arches of Bermondsey, and their close proximity and the decision to synchronize opening times on Saturday has led to the birth of the Bermondsey Beer Mile. Start at Brew by Numbers Tasting Room on Enid Street.
PRINCE CHARLES CINEMA
Surrounded by the multiplexes of Leicester Square, the Prince Charles caters to cinephiles who pine for the old, the odd, and the celebrated, showing classic double-billings, quote-along screenings, all-night movie marathons, and cult movies in their original 35 mm formats.
CONTEMPORARY THEATER
While the city’s West End hosts the biggest theaters with the most famous plays, there are plenty of spaces in London to see contemporary performances at a fraction of the price. The intimate Donmar Warehouse is a nonprofit performance space in the heart of Covent Garden that produces some of the city’s finest and freshest work, with subsidized tickets available to encourage a young and diverse audience. South of the river, the Young Vic is another space dedicated to appealing to younger audiences with relevant stories that play out in the stylish theater on The Cut.
REGENT’S CANAL
Dotted with stylish cafés, pubs, breweries, and one whimsical floating bookshop, the length of Regent’s Canal between Angel and Hackney Wick is an ideal way to explore the East End.
HIGHGATE CEMETERY
Highgate is the most famous of London’s Victorian cemeteries, and locals love exploring its flora and fauna and finding an appealingly atmospheric—not to mention beautiful—place to wander. It’s the final resting place for the likes of Karl Marx, Malcolm McLaren, and George Eliot.
BARBICAN CENTRE
Having recently enjoyed something of a renaissance, it’s now acceptable to enjoy the bold, rigid lines of this brutalist masterpiece, which houses Europe’s largest performing arts center. With a cinema, theater, library, and exhibition spaces, the Barbican Centre is a haven of creativity and artistic expression.
VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM AFTER-HOURS
The Victoria and Albert Museum was one of the first in London to host regular after-hours events. The Friday Late series runs on the last Friday of every month, when DJs, pop-up cocktail bars, artists, and designers help create one of the best free nights out in town.
London’s Royal Legacy
THE ROCKY MONARCHY
From medieval castles and keeps to Royal Parks, palaces, pageants, ceremonies, and processions, London has had a tumultuous and sometimes bloody royal history, which can still be encountered at practically every turn. London has been the royal capital of England since 1066 when the Norman king William the Conqueror began the tradition of royal coronations at Westminster Abbey. All but two reigning monarchs since then—from Richard I (the Coeur de Lion
) in 1189 to King Charles III in 2023—have been crowned at the Abbey.
Many of England’s illustrious—and sometimes downright notorious—kings and queens have left a legacy or their majestic mark on the city. You’ll find many of the finest places have royal associations: William I subjugated London with the imposing Tower of London, Henry VIII hunted deer at Hampton Court, Elizabeth I enjoyed bear-baiting in Southwark, and Charles I was publicly executed on Whitehall. Tyrannical but weak monarchs like King John (1199–1216) granted the City of London extra power under the Magna Carta, while the first Parliament
sat at the Royal Palace of Westminster in 1265 under Henry III. The late medieval Tudors, however, rarely brooked dissent: Elizabeth I’s half-sister, Bloody
Mary I (1553–58), burned heretic Protestant bishops at the stake, and traitors were hung, drawn, and quartered, with their heads stuck on pikes on London Bridge.
A CULTURAL RENAISSANCE
From 1558 to 1601, peace under Elizabeth I (the Virgin Queen
) led to a cultural renaissance and the great flowering of English theater, poetry, letters, music, and drama, centered on Shakespeare’s Globe and the open-air playhouses of Southwark. Charles I was later captured by the formidable Puritan Oliver Cromwell during the English Civil War and beheaded on a freezing day outside the Banqueting House in Westminster in 1649.
Although the Interregnum lasted only 16 years (outlawing simple pleasures, such as dancing and theater), the Restoration of Charles II in 1660 and subsequent monarchs saw London grow and transform into a teeming metropolis. These monarchs included the Dutch Protestant William III and Mary II—who moved into Kensington Palace, now the part-time London home of the Prince and Princess of Wales—and the House of Hanover’s four Georgian kings and later Queen Victoria.
THE MODERN ROYALS
Prior to the Queen’s death in 2022, there was a rich calendar of royal ceremonies, including the color, pageantry, and marching bands of the Changing the Guard ceremony at Buckingham Palace. It’s likely that King Charles III will continue with these traditions. The Ceremony of the Keys to lock up the Tower of London has taken place at 9:53 pm each night for more than 700 years (bar the odd bombing during the Blitz), and you can see the monarch take the Royal Salute from the Household Division at the annual Trooping the Colour march from Horse Guards Parade to St. James’s Park. The monarch is also drawn by four horses in the dazzling Irish State Coach from Buckingham Palace to the Palace of Westminster in a huge royal procession for the State Opening of Parliament each autumn, and also pays homage to the war dead at the Cenotaph on Remembrance Sunday.
Sports in London
Sports in the capital are probably best watched rather than participated in. If you’re lucky enough to score a ticket for a Premier League football match, you’ll experience a seething mass of jeering, mockery, and tribal chanting. Rugby, tennis, horseracing, and cricket also impinge on Londoners’ horizons at crucial times of the year, but you’re unlikely to see grown men crying at the outcome of the Wimbledon Men’s Final.
CRICKET
At its best, cricket can be a slow build of smoldering tension and unexpected high-wire excitement. At its worst, it can be too slow and uneventful for the casual observer, as five-day games crawl toward a draw or as rain stops play. But try to visit Lord’s—known as the home of cricket—on match days, just to hear the thwack of leather on willow and to see the English aristocracy and upper-middle class on full display.
Lord’s. Lord’s Cricket Ground—home of the venerable Marylebone Cricket Club, founded in 1787 and whose rules codified the game—has been hallowed cricketing turf since 1814. Tickets for major test matches are hard to come by: obtain an application form online and enter the ballot (lottery) to purchase them. EMarylebone Cricket Club, Lord’s Cricket Ground, St. John’s Wood Rd., St. John’s Wood P020/7432–1000 wwww.lords.org mSt. John’s Wood.
FOOTBALL
London’s top soccer teams—Chelsea, Tottenham Hotspur, Arsenal, Crystal Palace, Fulham, and West Ham—are world-class outfits and the first three often progress in the Europe-wide Champions League. It’s unlikely you’ll get tickets for anything except the least popular Premier League games during the August–May season, despite the high ticket prices—£60 for a walk-up match-day seat at Chelsea, and £136 for the most expensive tickets at Arsenal.
ROWING
The Boat Race. Join more than a quarter of a million merry devotees along the banks of the River Thames between Putney and Mortlake for a glimpse of the annual Oxford and Cambridge Boat Races, held on the last Saturday of March or the first Saturday of April. Sink a few pints and soak up the tweed-cap-and-Barbour-clad atmosphere as these heavyweight eight-man university crews clash oars and tussle head-to-head for supremacy. First raced in 1829, the 4-mile route is a picturesque stretch between Putney and Chiswick bridges. The Men’s and Women’s Boat Races are held on the same day. EPutney Bridge, Putney wwww.theboatrace.org.
RUNNING
TCS London Marathon. The London Marathon starts at 9:30