Fodor's Kauai
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About this ebook
Whether you want to take a helicopter tour over the Napali Coast, hike through Waimea Canyon, or relax on Poipu Beach, the local Fodor‘s travel experts in Hawaii are here to help! Fodor‘s Kauaiguidebook is packed with maps, carefully curated recommendations, and everything else you need to simplify your trip-planning process and make the most of your time. This new edition has been fully-redesigned with an easy-to-read layout, fresh information, and beautiful color photos.
Fodor‘s Kauai travel guide includes:
- AN ILLUSTRATED ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES GUIDE to the top things to see and do
- MULTIPLE ITINERARIES to effectively organize your days and maximize your time
- DETAILED MAPS and a FREE PULL-OUT MAP to help you navigate confidently
- COLOR PHOTOS throughout to spark your wanderlust!
- HONEST RECOMMENDATIONS FROM LOCALS on the best sights, restaurants, hotels, nightlife, shopping, performing arts, activities, and more
- PHOTO-FILLED “BEST OF” FEATURES on “Kauai's Best Beaches,” “Kauai's Natural Wonders,” “What to Eat and Drink in Hawaii,” and more
- TRIP-PLANNING TOOLS AND PRACTICAL TIPS including when to go, getting around, beating the crowds, and saving time and money
- HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL INSIGHTS providing rich context on the local people, politics, art, architecture, cuisine, music, geography and more
- SPECIAL FEATURES on “Flora and Fauna in Hawaii,” “What to Read and Watch Before You Visit,” and “What to Buy in Hawaii”
- LOCAL WRITERS to help you find the under-the-radar gems
- UP-TO-DATE COVERAGE ON: The Napali Coast, Hanalei Bay, the Waimea Canyon, Lihue, Kapaa, Wailua, Poipu Beach, Kee Beach, Koloa, the Kalalau Trail, Hawaiian resorts, snorkeling in Hawaii, helicopter tours, and more
Planning on visiting other destinations in Hawaii? Check out Fodor‘s Big Island of Hawaii, Fodor's Oahu, and Fodor's Maui.
*Important note for digital editions: The digital edition of this guide does not contain all the images or text included in the physical edition.
ABOUT FODOR'S AUTHORS: Each Fodor's Travel Guide is researched and written by local experts. Fodor‘s has been offering expert advice for all tastes and budgets for over 80 years. For more travel inspiration, you can sign up for our travel newsletter at fodors.com/newsletter/signup, or follow us @FodorsTravel on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. We invite you to join our friendly community of travel experts at fodors.com/community to ask any other questions and share your experience with us!
Fodor’s Travel Guides
For over 80 years, Fodor's Travel has been a trusted resource offering expert travel advice for every stage of a traveler's trip. We hire local writers who know their destinations better than anyone else, allowing us to provide the best travel recommendations for all tastes and budgets in over 7,500 worldwide destinations. Our books make it possible for every trip to be a trip of a lifetime.
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Fodor's Kauai - Fodor’s Travel Guides
24 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES
Kauai offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.
1 Hike the Kalalau Trail
Winding 11 roller-coaster miles along rugged Napali Coast, this is one of the world’s most outrageous hikes. The first 2 miles to Hanakapiai Beach are fairly moderate; the two- to three-day round-trip hike includes camping along the way (permit required). (Ch. 7)
2 Sail the Sunset
Kauai sunsets are sublime, and perhaps the best way to experience that magical hour of the day is by boat, facing Niihau and stunning Napali Coast. (Ch. 7)
3 Relax on Poipu Beach
Popular with tourists and locals, Poipu Beach has calm waters ideal for snorkeling, and you might just spot an endangered Hawaiian monk seal. (Ch. 5)
4 Go Mountain Tubing
A century ago, Lihue Plantation dug ditches to irrigate its fields. Now you can take a tubing tour via these waterways for a glimpse of Kauai’s hidden interior. (Ch. 7)
5 Watch the Sunrise on the Royal Coconut Coast
Kauai’s Royal Coconut Coast is the perfect place to watch the sunrise—Lydgate State Park and the Ke Ala Hele Makalae biking/walking path are great vantage points. (Ch. 4, 7)
6 Seek Out the Menehune
The mythical Menehune are said to be descendants of the island’s first settlers. Their work
is found throughout Kauai, including Alekoko Fishpond near Lihue. (Ch. 4)
7 Learn Island History
The island’s most important receptacle of island culture and history, the Kauai Museum covers topics like geological formation and Hawaiian kings. (Ch. 4)
8 Admire Spouting Horn
Shooting water as high as 50 feet, Kauai’s version of Old Faithful was once guarded by a legendary lizard. Today, you can still hear her roar. (Ch. 5)
9 Go Deep-Sea Fishing
The deep Pacific waters surrounding Kauai are teeming with fish. Charters, which depart from Lihue or Port Allen, visit the best spots and provide all the gear. (Ch. 7)
10 Capture Hanalei Valley Views
In a land of stellar vistas, the North Shore’s Hanalei Valley stands out; head to the viewpoint on Route 56 just outside Princeville for a postcard scene. (Ch. 3)
11 Experience Helicopter Vistas
Kauai’s interior is best seen via helicopter. Tours give access to breathtaking scenery like Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon. (Ch. 7)
12 Visit Sacred Heiau
Remains of sacred structures of the Kauai kingdom are found in Wailua along Route 580, between the mouth of the Wailua River and Mt. Waialeale. (Ch. 4)
13 Roam Kapaa Town
Meander through Kapaa Town the first Saturday evening of each month as merchants show off their wares, food trucks sizzle, bands play, and locals talk story.
(Ch. 4)
14 Eat Shave Ice
The Hawaiian version of a snow cone—shave (never shaved
) ice topped with a sugary syrup and condensed milk—is found across the island.
15 Buy Fruit at Farmers’ Markets
Known as the Garden Isle, Kauai boasts numerous farmers’ markets with the freshest tropical fruits.
16 Sip Cocktails Overlooking Bali Hai
Order a tropical cocktail at Happy Talk Lounge and enjoy an enchanting sunset over Hanalei Bay. (Ch. 3)
17 Go Bird- and Whale-Watching
The northernmost point of the inhabited Hawaiian Isles, Kilauea Point has stunning ocean and coast views and amazing opportunities for seabird- and whale-watching. (Ch. 3, 7)
18 Explore Waimea Canyon
A vast canyon on the island’s West Side, this geologic wonder measures a mile wide, more than 14 miles long, and 3,600 feet deep. (Ch. 6, 7)
19 Attend a Luau
At a traditional luau guests are treated to more than a heaping buffet, including Hawaiian-style storytelling, hula, knife dancing, and poi fire ball throwing. (Ch. 4, 5)
20 Walk Through Old Koloa Town
In 1835, Koloa’s first sugar mill ushered in Hawaii’s era of sugar production. Today, most of the historic buildings are shops and restaurants. (Ch. 5)
21 See Art in Hanapepe
Established over a century ago, Hanapepe is filled with bougainvillea-draped, plantation-style buildings that house cafés, boutiques, and arts-and-crafts galleries. (Ch. 6)
22 Go Golfing
Breathtaking beauty, quality, and a vast number of thrilling heart-stopping holes help make Kauai a top golf destination. (Ch. 7)
23 Kayak to Secret Falls
Only Kauai has navigable rivers. Kayaking up the Wailua River leads you into a mystical realm of lush rain forests, velvety green mountains, and secret crystal-clear waterfalls. (Ch. 4, 7)
24 Snorkel at Kee Beach
Kauai has many snorkeling beaches, but Kee (reservation needed) is one of the best, especially for beginners and kids. Spot parrotfish and green sea turtles. (Ch. 3, 7)
WHAT’S WHERE
dingbat North Shore. Dreamy beaches, verdant mountains, breathtaking scenery, and abundant rain, waterfalls, and rainbows characterize the North Shore, which includes Kilauea, Princeville, Hanalei, and Haena.
dingbat East Side. This is Kauai’s commercial and residential hub, dominated by the island’s largest town, Kapaa. The airport, main harbor, and government offices are found in the county seat of Lihue. It can be a convenient base for travelers, too.
dingbat South Shore. Peaceful landscapes, sunny weather, and beaches that rank among the best in the world make the South Shore the vacation capital of Kauai. The Poipu resort area is here, along with the main towns of Koloa and Lawai.
dingbat West Side. Dry, sunny, and slower, the West Side includes the historic towns of Hanapepe, Waimea, and Kekaha. The area is ideal for outdoor adventurers because it’s the entryway to Waimea Canyon and Kokee state parks, as well as the departure point for most Napali Coast boat trips.
Kauai Today
Hawaii’s worldwide fame came with a price. Kauai has never quite been prepared for what’s happened to it—from early Polynesian voyagers bringing new plants and animals, to Europeans introducing livestock and diseases, to missionaries changing traditional ways, to barons of agriculture altering the land. Population growth and tourism have burdened the island’s limited infrastructure and resources.
Hawaiian culture and tradition are resilient, however, and have experienced a renaissance over the past half century. There’s a real effort to revive traditions and to respect history as the Islands go through major changes. Resorts often have a Hawaiian cultural expert on staff to ensure cultural sensitivity and educate newcomers. Kauai’s schools and community college offer courses in the Hawaiian language.
Nonetheless, development remains a huge issue for all Islanders—land prices still skyrocket, putting most areas out of reach for locals. At the time of this writing, the median home price was $1.8 million, with almost half of new housing purchased by off-island buyers, often as second homes. Traffic is also a major problem on aging Kauai roads.
SUSTAINABILITY
Although sustainability is an effective buzzword and an authentic direction for the Islands’ dining establishments, the reality is that 90% of Hawaii’s food and energy is imported. However, solar power is making a major inroad in power production: on some sunny days, for a few hours, the Kauai electrical grid is 100% powered by alternative energy sources. In fact, Kauai leads the state in alternative energy solutions, including hydro.
For many years, most of Kauai’s land was used for monocropping of pineapple or sugarcane. Sugarcane is now a memory, and only small-scale production of specialty pineapple remains on Kauai. The largest coffee plantation in the United States spreads from the flanks of Kukuiolono to the shore near Eleele on the west side. If possible, make time for a tour and tasting.
When visiting, remember you’re on a remote island chain—use, reuse, and protect resources mindfully.
BACK-TO-BASICS AGRICULTURE
Emulating the way Hawaiian ancestors lived and returning to their ways of growing and sharing a wide variety of foods have become statewide initiatives. Many Kauai locals buy all their fruit and produce from the numerous farmers’ markets, which often feature in-season crops at reasonable prices. From home-cooked meals and casual plate lunches to fine-dining cuisine and food trucks, sustainability trailblazers in Kauai’s kitchens are enriching the island’s culinary scene.
TOURISM AND THE ECONOMY
In 2019, the almost $18 billion tourism industry represented more than a third of Hawaii’s state income. Naturally, this dependency caused economic hardship following the coronavirus outbreak in 2020. Some restaurants, hotels, shops, and even cultural institutions were forced to close. When tourism resumed, hotel rates skyrocketed and a rental car shortage ensued. By 2023, visitor numbers on Kauai had rebounded, and then some. Changes continue, and it’s still a good idea to verify that a property is open.
Kauaians enjoyed the calm during the travel bans and resolved to revive tourism in a more thoughtful, sustainable, and sensitive way. Beaches, parks, and scenic lookouts increasingly charge nonresidents admission or parking fees to manage impact. Companies employ cultural advisers and airlines show videos about nature protocols, with the hope of educating visitors that Hawaii is more than just a pretty picture. The focus now is on natural resource conservation, Hawaiian culture, community enrichment, and teaching residents and visitors alike to care for the land and respect each other—to always be pono (proper, righteous) and to malama Kauai, or take care of Kauai. The concept of kuleana, a word denoting both privilege and responsibility, is a traditional Hawaiian value. The privilege of visiting or living in such a sublime place comes with the responsibility to protect it.
SOVEREIGNTY
Political issues of sovereignty continue to divide Native Hawaiians, who have formed myriad organizations around the issue, each operating with a separate agenda and lacking one collectively defined plan. Ranging from achieving complete independence to solidifying a nation within a nation, existing sovereignty models remain fractured and their future unresolved.
The introduction of the Native Hawaiian Government Reorganization Act of 2009 attempts to set up a legal framework in which Native Hawaiians can attain federal recognition and coexist as a self-governed entity, similar to Native American status. Also known as the Akaka Bill, after former senator Daniel Akaka of Hawaii, this bill progressed in Congress but is still pending.
RISE OF HAWAIIAN PRIDE
After the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893, a process of Americanization began. Traditions were silenced in the name of citizenship. Teaching the Hawaiian language was banned from schools, and children were distanced from traditional customs. With the rise of the Civil Rights Movement in the 1960s, though, Hawaiians began to reflect on their own national identity, bringing an astonishing renaissance of the Hawaiian culture. The people of Hawaii—indigenous or not—have rediscovered language, hula, chanting, and even the traditional Polynesian arts of canoe building and wayfinding (navigation by the stars). This cultural resurrection is now firmly established in today’s Hawaiian culture, with a palpable pride that exudes from residents young and old.
CHANGES ON THE NORTH SHORE
Kauai’s North Shore experienced epic rainfall in 2018, with Hanalei receiving 50 inches of rain in one 24-hour period. Flooding and landslides cut off the only road beyond Princeville for long periods, and residents were forced to make many daily adjustments. The silver lining? With many areas forced to close, there was time to improve parks, roads, and other infrastructure. Haena State Park, Kee Beach, and the Kalalau Trail are now cleaner and calmer, in part due to new entry fees, a shuttle, and permit requirements.
THE ARTS
The Hawaiian Islands have inspired artistic expression from the time they were first inhabited. From traditional kapa cloth–making and ancient hula to digital filmmaking, the arts are alive and well. On Kauai, the community college’s Performing Arts Center and the state-run War Memorial Convention Hall hold stage performances, and a handful of community theater groups perform around the island. Live music abounds at hotels, eateries, and beach parks where locals gather. Hanapepe and Kapaa are hubs of visual art galleries, and the Kauai Society of Artists (KSA) runs an exhibit space in Kukui Grove Center in Lihue.
Kauai’s Best Beaches
HANALEI PAVILION BEACH PARK
One of the most legendary beaches on Kauai, amid the largest bay on the island’s North Shore, this 2-mile family-friendly chain of beaches features a long pier with exceptional views. It’s great for water activities, such as stand-up paddling, snorkeling, and swimming. (Ch. 3)
MAHAULEPU BEACH
This isolated beach is pristine and wild, from its windswept cliffs to the waves crashing on the shore. There are no lifeguards and the surf can be dangerous, so trek along the Mahaulepu Heritage Trail instead, spotting blowholes, lava tubes, and tide pools along the rocky coastline. (Ch. 5)
KEALIA BEACH PARK
East-facing Kealia is the spot to catch a sunrise on Kauai and a good lookout point for spotting whales during the winter. With strong waves, wind swell, and rough currents during most of the year, it’s best for surfing and bodyboarding or for biking along the coastal path. (Ch. 4)
ANINI BEACH PARK
Although there are no lifeguards on this 3-mile golden-sand beach, Anini is considered one of the safest places to swim on the island’s North Shore during summer. Naturally protected by an expansive coral reef—the largest in all of Hawaii—it offers exceptional snorkeling, too. Windsurfers and campers also love this beach. (Ch. 3)
POLIHALE STATE PARK
Hawaii’s longest stretch of sandy beach is situated on the westernmost point of Kauai and is well known for its spectacular sunset views. If you’re seeking privacy, this 2-mile white-sand beach has high dunes and plenty of shade, an ideal getaway for the afternoon. Keep in mind this remote area is for the adventurous only: it has a 5-mile-long access road that’s bumpy, dusty, or muddy, and best navigated with a four-wheel drive vehicle. (Ch. 6)
LYDGATE BEACH PARK
This laid-back, family-friendly East Side beach is popular and offers an easy and relaxing beach experience. It’s especially fun for children because it features amazing play equipment and an adjacent pool area that’s protected from the larger waves by a rock wall. Lifeguards watch over the snorkelers who flock to this top spot to view tropical fish and other marine life. (Ch. 4)
TUNNELS BEACH (MAKUA)
Earning its nickname from the underwater lava tunnels offshore, this beach with calm turquoise waters has ideal conditions for snorkeling and is teeming with marine life. Just around the bend is a scenic stretch of pale-yellow sand. (Ch. 3)
ANAHOLA BEACH PARK
Situated on Kauai’s eastern shore, this sugar-white beach is a hot spot for the local crowd on weekends and offers plenty of shade as well as gorgeous mountain views of Kalalea. Anahola is also a draw for those who enjoy camping and picnics. (Ch. 3)
KALAPAKI BEACH
This lively beautiful beach in Lihue, in front of a sprawling resort, provides protected swimming with an abundance of options and plenty of convenient amenities. Featuring smaller forgiving waves and a sandy ocean floor, the area is ideal for most water activities, including beginner surfing and stand-up paddleboarding lessons. There’s beach volleyball, too. Steps away from the sand, a number of shops sell standard beach supplies and local products, and there are cafés to grab lunch or a quick snack. (Ch. 4)
POIPU BEACH PARK
Popular Poipu on the South Shore has a prime location in front of several major hotels. The wide, often noisy beach is optimal for snorkeling and swimming. It’s also a fun spot for beginner surf lessons. (Ch. 5)
Kauai’s Natural Wonders
HANALEI VALLEY
With cascading waterfalls, gleaming taro patches, and the island’s famous Hanalei River, the valley’s beauty stretches for nearly 1,000 acres. Get a panoramic view from the Hanalei Valley Lookout or a close-up by kayak. (Ch. 3)
TREE TUNNEL
This dramatic arching canopy along Maluhia Road began with a rancher’s gift of 500 eucalyptus trees in 1911. The towering trees have survived two hurricanes and are nature’s grand entry to the resort area of Poipu. (Ch. 5)
KILAUEA POINT NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
Bird-watchers adore this scenic reserve (reservations required) on a dormant volcano, as it’s home to diverse seabirds and plenty of other wildlife. Visitors can tour the nearby lighthouse and spot turtles, whales, and monk seals. (Ch. 3)
SPOUTING HORN
A popular island landmark on Kauai’s South Shore, Spouting Horn is a blowhole that shoots ocean water into the air (often to an impressive 50 feet high) à la Old Faithful. This natural wonder is created from the pressure of ocean water being forced into an undersea lava tube. If you’re lucky, you might spot a sea turtle or a whale during winter. (Ch. 5)
KALALAU TRAIL
This rugged hike (permit required) winds through about 11 miles of the magnificent Napali Coast State Wilderness Park, offering stunning views of the Pacific Ocean. Suited for experienced hikers only, the challenging path traverses rocky mountain streams, crosses five valleys, and passes majestic waterfalls. Twisting along precarious cliffs, the trail ends at Kalalau Beach. (Ch. 3, 7)
WAILUA RIVER AND FALLS
Flowing past ancient temples, this meandering 20-mile-long river ends in two spectacular and awe-inspiring waterfalls: Opaekaa Falls and Wailua Falls. You can drive to the Wailua Falls and Opaekaa Falls overlooks and take a river cruise. (Ch. 4, 7)
WAIMEA CANYON STATE PARK
Considered the Grand Canyon of the Pacific,
this spectacular natural wonder is over 3,600 feet deep and stretches for 14 miles. Take in its brilliant dark pink, rust, and emerald hues at lookout points offering the ultimate backdrops for vacation selfies. (Ch. 6)
NAPALI COAST
This iconic stretch of Kauai’s dramatic coastline features cliffs that soar nearly 4,000 feet above the Pacific Ocean. The breathtaking natural wonder is best admired at a distance, either from the water (ideally by catamaran or sailboat) or from the air by helicopter. (Ch. 3, 7)
KOKEE STATE PARK
Located north of Waimea Canyon, Kokee State Park offers breathtaking views along verdant pathways that ascend over 4,000 feet. With 45 miles of hiking trails and diverse terrain, this peaceful area is popular with campers. The park offers something for everyone, so day-trippers can choose an easy trail, visit the little museum, or get a picnic from Kokee Lodge. (Ch. 6)
SLEEPING GIANT (NOUNOU MOUNTAIN)
Resembling a man resting on his back, this magnificent mountain range has several trails to choose from, but the East Trail is considered the most moderate, with parking close by. You can hike the 2-mile ascent to the top (across the giant’s body to the area that would be his forehead
) and soak up some unobstructed island vistas. (Ch. 4, 7)
Flora and Fauna in Hawaii
PLUMERIA
Also known as frangipani, this fragrant flower is named after Charles Plumier, the noted French botanist who discovered it in Central America in the late 1600s. Plumeria come in shades of white, yellow, pink, red, and orange. The hearty, plentiful blossoms are frequently used in lei.
GARDENIA
The gardenia is a favorite for lei makers because of its sweet smell. The plant is native to tropical regions throughout China and Africa, but there are also endemic gardenias in Hawaii. The nanu gardenia is found only in the Islands and has petite white blossoms.
HONU
The honu, or Hawaiian green sea turtle, is a magical sight. The graceful reptile is an endangered and protected species in Hawaii. It’s easier to encounter honu during a snorkeling or scuba-diving excursion, but they occasionally can be spotted basking on beaches.
KUKUI
The kukui, or candlenut, is Hawaii’s state tree, and Hawaiians have had many uses for it. Oil was extracted from its nuts and burned as a light source and also rubbed on fishing nets to preserve them. The juice from the husk’s fruit was used as a dye. The small kukui blossoms and nuts also have medicinal purposes.
HUMPBACK WHALES
Each year, North Pacific humpback whales make the long journey to Hawaii from Alaska. With its warm, protected waters, Hawaii provides the ideal place for the marine mammals to mate and to birth and to nurse their young. They arrive between November and May, and their presence is an anticipated event. You can see them up close during whale-watching boat tours.
MONK SEAL
Known as the ilio holo i ka uaua, meaning dog that runs in rough water,
monk seals are endemic to Hawaii and critically endangered. The majority of these mammals, which can grow to more than 7 feet long, live in the remote, uninhabited Northwestern Hawaiian Islands.
TROPICAL FISH
Approximately 25% of the fish species in the Islands are endemic. Snorkeling in Hawaii is a unique, fun opportunity to see colorful fish found nowhere else on Earth. Interestingly, Hawaii’s state fish, the humuhumunukunukuapuaa, or reef trigger, is not endemic to the state.
NENE GOOSE
Pronounced nay-nay, the endemic nene goose (Hawaii’s state bird) is one of the world’s rarest. A descendant of the Canada goose, it has been bred back from the edge of extinction and reintroduced into the wild. Use caution driving in national and state parks, which they frequent.
HIBISCUS
In 1923, the Territory of Hawaii passed a law designating hibiscus as Hawaii’s official flower. While there are more than 30 introduced species of the large, colorful flowers throughout the Islands, there are five endemic types. The endemic hibiscus has yellow blossoms and is known in Hawaiian as mao hau hele, which means the traveling green tree.
PIKAKE
These small, delicate blossoms are