Lonely Planet Germany 11

Germany

Contents

Plan Your Trip

The Journey Begins Here

Germany Map

Our Picks

Regions & Cities

Itineraries

When to Go

Get Prepared

The Food Scene

The Outdoors

The Guide

Berlin

Find Your Way

Plan Your Days

Historic Mitte

Museumsinsel & Alexanderplatz

Hackescher Markt & Scheunenviertel

Prenzlauer Berg

Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten

Schöneberg

Charlottenburg & Western Berlin

Kreuzberg

Neukölln

Friedrichshain & Eastern Berlin

Around Berlin

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Potsdam

Spreewald

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp

Hamburg & the North

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Hamburg

Lübeck

Sylt

Schwerin

Rügen Island

Central Germany

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Weimar

Erfurt

Kassel

Quedlinburg

Halle

Dessau-Rosslau

Saxony

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Leipzig

Ore Mountains

Dresden

Upper Lusatia

Munich

Find Your Way

Plan Your Days

Altstadt

Schwabing

Maxvorstadt

Westend & Ludwigvorstadt

Olympiapark & Around

Nymphenburg

Haidhausen & Lehel

Bavaria

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Nuremberg

Würzburg

The Romantic Road

Augsburg

Füssen

Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Berchtesgaden

Oberammergau

Regensburg

Passau

Bavarian Forest

Bamberg

Eichstätt

Stuttgart & the Black Forest

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Stuttgart

Freiburg

The Black Forest

Baden-Baden

Lake Constance

Ulm

Frankfurt & Southern Rhineland

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Frankfurt am Main

Wiesbaden

Mainz

The Romantic Rhine Valley

Koblenz

Trier

Mannheim

Heidelberg

Cologne & Northern Rhineland

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Cologne

Düsseldorf

Aachen

Essen

Münster

Lower Saxony & Bremen

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Hanover

Celle & Bergen-Belsen Memorial

Hildesheim

Braunschweig

Bremen

East Frisia

East Frisian Islands

Toolkit

Arriving

Nuts & Bolts

Getting Around

German Trains

Money

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

Language

Storybook

A History of Germany in 15 Places

Meet the Germans

Bach

Germany’s Beer Purity Law

Oktoberfest

Autobahn or Bust

This Book

GERMANY

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Rüdesheim am Rhein | HANZOPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

I grew up in Germany, but it wasn’t until I left the country that I truly fell in love with it. Returning after two decades in the UK and the US, I began to understand its strengths and vulnerabilities and the complex narrative of its history. I discovered its striking beauty – from the corrugated dune-fringed coasts to moody forests, romantic river valleys and vineyard-blanketed hills to the off-the-charts splendour of the Alps. Then there are its perplexing contradictions: a land steeped as much in fairy tales as in fast cars, that gave birth both to great thinkers and the horrific spectre of Nazism. Exploring timeless villages seemingly untouched by the march of time fills me with much joy, as do go-go cities like Hamburg, Leipzig and my adopted hometown of Berlin.

Andrea Schulte-Peevers

@aschultepeevers

Born and raised in Bochum, in the western state of North Rhine–Westphalia, Andrea has written for Lonely Planet for over a quarter of a century, contributing to all editions of the Germany and Berlin guides.

My favourite experience is impossible to pick! Contenders include wine tasting along the Romantic Rhine, stumbling upon imaginatively rebooted industrial sites in the Ruhrgebiet and partying till dawn in Berlin.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts chose the places which, for them, define Germany.

JENS GOEPFERT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Stuttgart is a city that grows on you. My three must-dos are to take a ride in the vintage doorless elevator in the Rathaus, check out the ultra-modern library and soak up the romantic views over the vines at the Grabkapelle Rotenberg. And if you time it right, don’t miss the Frühlingsfest beer festival in spring.

Kat Barber

@katbarber_

Kat is an Australian writer who spent three years learning German and exploring the country while living in Stuttgart.

LUKY LANG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

One of the best days out in Bavaria for me is to ride the electric boats of the beautiful Königssee to the south of Berchtesgaden. The witty banter of the captain as he prepares to blow his trumpet at the Echo Wall, the filling food at St Bartholomä, a hike up to the ice caves above the lake and some smoked trout to bring home for later – simply the perfect day trip from start to finish.

Marc Di Duca

A travel author for almost 20 years, Marc has penned over 100 guides for Lonely Planet.

BILDAGENTUR-ONLINE / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

As a writer and travel historian, the Deutsches Romantik-Museum in Frankfurt will forever be my favorite stop in Southern Rhineland. Here we learn why Germany is the home of the fairy tale. Cinderella, Rapunzel, Little Red Riding Hood and so many fables come alive amidst the romantic magic of Germany’s forests, meadows, rivers, and valleys.

Harmony Difo

harmonydifo.com

Harmony is a writer, editor, and historian specialising in lifestyle and culture journalism.

WALTERWEISS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Lower Saxons might talk about that ‘beautiful grey in the north’, but it’s the murky mudflats and shimmering white sands of the North Sea islands that I like. Norderney, one such island, is a hugely popular spa resort. But a walk along its broad sands, washed by the sea and swept by the wind, can also give rise to the illusion of being in a remote corner of the world. And in a way it is, because the elements as much as a location can define distance.

Anthony Haywood

anthonyjhaywood.com

Anthony is an author and editor who has been based in Germany for over two decades. His portfolio includes a cultural history of Siberia, published by OUP/Signal Books.

AQUATARKUS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

After all the splendour of Dresden’s museums, Freiberg’s Terra Mineralia makes one think about the futility of human endeavour to create greater beauty than nature has created already. It’s a humbling experience, like meeting something supranatural and beyond your understanding. You can see how these shiny minerals coming in every shape and form must have served as one of the original sources of inspiration for the ancients when they invented art.

Leonid Ragozin

@leonidragozin

Leonid Ragozin is a Riga-based journalist mostly covering political subjects; he has co-authored a book about the Russo-Ukrainian war.

HECKE61/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Wartburg seems to hold half of German history within its immense walls, atop its stern and rocky prominence. Martin Luther took refuge from papal fury here, finding the time to codify modern German in the process, while the Wartburg Festival of 1817 was an essential milestone on the road to German nationhood. Nearly 1000 years old, it’s recognised by UNESCO as the most ‘ideal’ castle in the country.

Hugh McNaughtan

Hugh is a former English lecturer who swapped grant writing for travel writing. He’s never happier than when on the road with his girls: Maise, Willa and Tina.

DIEGO GRANDI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Despite living in Berlin, some of my fondest memories are in Hamburg – from sipping and writing about the city’s incredible craft beer to my first DJ gig in Germany (a disco party on a houseboat where ‘Germany’s Johnny Cash’ once resided)! Hamburg’s full of surprises, things are changing up fast but the vibe always stays gloriously relaxed. Cool nightlife venues, funky shopping and friendly locals keep me coming back – oh yes, and the fish sandwiches.

Barbara Woolsey

@xo_babxi

Since 2013, Barbara’s been living in Germany and writing about its fascinating food and culture – when not writing guidebooks, find her DJing in Berlin’s best clubs.

MAJESTIC MARVELS

From mighty medieval fortresses and moated castles to dainty baroque pleasure palaces and romantic country mansions, Germany is flecked with over 20,000 former residences of the rich and royal. This abundance is a legacy of the feudal system that fragmented the country into hundreds of fiefdoms, each with its own ruler, until it finally unified in 1871. With their photogenic charm, air of mystery and enchanting surroundings, these historic castles and palaces are a joy to explore.

Schloss Neuschwanstein | PATRYK KOSMIDER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Plan Ahead

Be sure to book tickets in advance for popular palaces like Schloss Neuschwanstein or risk long hours waiting in line or not getting any tickets at all.

TOBIAS MÜLLER/500PX ©

Royal Dreams

Live out your fairy-tale fantasies by staying overnight in a castle converted into a luxe Schlosshotel, including several options along the Romantic Rhine.

SERGEJ PRIL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Culture in the Castle

Many castles and palaces now double as concert halls, event spaces or museums; Kassel’s Schloss Wilhelmshöhe has a grand collection of Old Masters.

BEST CASTLE EXPERIENCES

Soak up the magic of 1 Schloss Neuschwanstein, a fairy-tale vision in stone that inspired Disney’s Sleeping Beauty castle.

Immerse yourself within 1000 years of history at the 2 Wartburg, Eisenach’s famous hilltop castle where Martin Luther took refuge while translating the New Testament into German.

Fancy yourself a knight or damsel as you explore the 3 Marksburg, a medieval robber-baron hangout and a star among the castles along the fabled Romantic Rhine.

Mirror, mirror on the wall, which castle is the prettiest of them all? Let yourself be enchanted by 4 Burg Eltz, a forest-framed top contender near the Moselle.

Elevate your spirits in Potsdam’s exquisite 5 Sanssouci Park & Palace, where Frederick the Great sought respite from city life and state affairs.

SMALL TOWN CHARMERS

Tourist trail faves like Heidelberg, Rothenburg ob der Tauber and Oberammergau exude charm and quaintness from every crooked lane, cobblestone and medieval facade. Alas, all too often they are deluged with visitors. If you yearn for beauty paired with (relative) serenity, consider folding much lesser-known but equally lovely small towns into your itinerary.

Marburg | EMSON/ISTOCK ©

Easy Access

Most of Germany’s under-the-radar towns are nevertheless well-connected by public transport, making them easy to include in your itinerary.

Smart Footwear

Trade heels for sneakers as you trot around cobbledstone lanes worn smooth by centuries of horses' hooves, wagon wheels and shoe leather.

BEST SMALL-TOWN EXPERIENCES

Soak up the magic of 1 Schwerin, with its turreted fairy-tale palace.

Lose yourself in photogenic 2 Celle on the fringe of the Lüneburg Heath.

Immerse yourself in pristinely preserved 3 Görlitz, a popular film location.

Explore the cascading cobbled centre of 4 Marburg.

Drift around 5 Quedlinburg, a medieval warren of crooked lanes and half-timbered buildings.

FLORAL SANCTUARIES

Whether you’re a botanical enthusiast or simply seeking a leafy sightseeing respite, you’re rarely far from a public park or garden in Germany. From ornate baroque masterpieces and charming English-style landscapes to encyclopedic botanical gardens, these spaces are a testament to centuries of horticultural brilliance. The finest among them have even earned an entry on UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

Prime Seasons

Germany’s parks and gardens are at their most redolent between April and September before the foliage erupts in a golden autumn glow in October.

MATEJ KASTELIC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

How Much?

Admission to public and municipal gardens is usually free, while those attached to palaces or historical sites often – but not always – charge a modest entrance fee.

MATEUSZ SUSKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Enhance Your Visit

Check websites for special events, festivals and exhibitions happening during your visit to add another layer of enjoyment to your garden experience.

BEST GARDEN EXPERIENCES

Sniff thousands of roses, meander among ancient trees and visit the baroque castle on 1 Mainau Island.

Frolic around Hanover’s sprawling 2 Herrenhäuser Gärten, home to synchronised fountains and a whimsical grotto by Niki de Saint Phalle.

Experience the vision of Prince Pückler, a genius of landscape design, on a spin around 3 Muskau Park.

Discover the enchanting 4 Gartenreich Dessau-Wörlitz, teeming with peacocks and palaces and hugging the Elbe River.

Blend in with locals on the paths, lawns and beer gardens of Munich’s 5 English Garden.

INTO THE HEARTS OF DARKNESS

The many years of terror, war and unspeakable genocide inflicted upon the world by Hitler and the Nazi regime will forever put a stain on Germany’s history. Rather than attempting to erase the memory of this harrowing period, the country has confronted its historical sins in schools and by turning original sites associated with the Third Reich into memorials and poignant warnings to future generations.

Buchenwald | IURII BURIAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Quiet Reverence

Be extra-respectful when visiting Third Reich sites, especially memorials dedicated to Nazi victims – no talking loudly, drinking, eating or taking smiley selfies.

MARIO FAJT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

History Brush-Up

Consider refreshing your knowledge about the Nazis by listening to historical podcasts like the BBC's 'Nazis: The Rise to Power' or by reading William Shirer’s seminal The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich.

PUBLISHER: SIMON & SCHUSTER ©

Travel with Children

Most sites and exhibits are quite disturbing. If you’re traveling with children, check a location’s website first to assess if it’s appropriate for their age.

THIRD REICH EXPERIENCES

Honour the souls of those tortured and murdered in concentration camps like 1 Buchenwald, Dachau and Bergen-Belsen.

Go behind the scenes of the Nazi leadership’s Alpine retreat near Berchtesgaden at the 2 Dokumentation Obersalzberg exhibit and the Eagle’s Nest.

Flash back to the Nazi mass rallies held at the 3 Reichsparteitagsgelände in Nuremberg, then visit the Nuremberg Trials courtroom.

Dissect the power apparatus of the Gestapo and the SS central command at Berlin’s 4 Topography of Terror exhibit.

Visit the research centre where the deadly V2 rocket was developed, now the 5 Historical & Technological Museum on Usedom.

BAUHAUS & BEYOND

The bombs of WWII may have devastated much of Germany’s architectural heritage, but thanks to painstaking post-war reconstruction and lucky sites that survived with nary a shrapnel wound, the country is still a veritable architectural wonderland. As the birthplace of the Bauhaus movement, Germany played a pivotal role in shaping modern architectural principles worldwide. More recently, renowned international architects such as Chipperfield, Hadid, Gehry and Pei have left their marks on both cities and the countryside.

Bauhausgebäude | CINEMATOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Take a Tour

The tourist offices in many cities offer guided architectural tours to give visitors a deeper understanding and appreciation of styles, buildings and their historical context.

STEFANO ZACCARIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Honoured by UNESCO

UNESCO’s World Heritage List includes the Bauhaus sites in Dessau-Rosslau and Weimar, the Weissenhof Estate in Stuttgart and cathedrals in Aachen and Cologne.

DIETMAR RAUSCHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Roman Germany

Germany’s oldest buildings were built by the Romans. Those in Trier are the best preserved, while Xanten’s origins were convincingly recreated in an Archäologischer Park (Archaeological Park).

BEST ARCHITECTURAL EXPERIENCES

Wander around Hamburg’s edgy 1 HafenCity, a long-derelict port area reborn as a postmodern inner-city district with arty subway stations.

Marvel at Stuttgart’s 2 Weissenhofsiedlung (Weissenhof Estate), a prototype for affordable housing created in 1927 by such top architects as Le Corbusier.

Check out the 3 Bauhausgebäude and the private homes of Gropius, Klee and other teachers in Dessau-Rosslau.

Study progressive city planning in Freiburg’s sustainable 4 Vauban community with plus-energy buildings that generate more energy than they consume.

Pose with postmodernist icons by Gehry and Chipperfield in Düsseldorf’s 5 Medienhafen, an old port turned high-tech creative hub.

GRAPE TO GLASS

Germany has produced wine since Roman times and now has over 100,000 hectares of vineyards in 13 growing regions. Although quality has skyrocketed, German wines still don’t get nearly enough credit. But if you worship at the altar of Bacchus, sampling Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Silvaner and other varietals should quickly make you a convert.

Grabkapelle Rotenberg | MARKUS MAINKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Wine Primer

For a comprehensive rundown of all German winegrowing regions, grape varieties and winemaking news, visit http://germanwines.de.

Riesling Rules

Germany’s most famous grape is the Riesling, while the top winegrowing region is the Moselle, which is home to Europe’s steepest vineyards.

BEST WINE EXPERIENCES

Traipse around the grape-covered hills of 1 Stuttgart on the Weinwanderweg.

Get tipsy on the dry sparkling wine that is the hallmark of the 2 Saale-Unstrut region.

Follow the 85km-long 3 Deutsche Weinstrasse, Germany’s oldest wine touring route.

Enjoy a glass of crisp Silvaner, the flagship grape of Franconia, in a cosy tavern in 4 Würzburg.

Raise a toast in Rüdesheim or any of the wine villages along the castle-studded 5 Romantic Rhine.

WATERY PLEASURES

Swimming, sailing, kayaking or kicking back on the deck of a boat – with two coasts and a lake- and river-filled interior, water rats have plenty of tempting options when planning an aquatic-themed German holiday. Options abound for having safe fun in and around the water, no matter your age or fitness level.

Swimming Season

Germany’s swimming season only runs from June to September and even then water temperatures rarely climb above 21°C.

THOMBAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Swimming in Nature

Wild swimming in lakes or rivers is a big trend among nature lovers. Just jump in – no tickets, changing rooms or sunbathing lawns required.

IOANA CATALINA E/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Time for Spas

Soothe achy bones or simply relax in a sumptuous day spa, often fed by thermal mineral water like the famous ones in Baden-Baden and Aachen.

BEST WATER EXPERIENCES

Take to the forest-rimmed lakes of the 1 Müritz National Park to canoe, camp and enjoy silence and birdwatching.

Relax on the sandy beaches of the 2 Baltic Sea, in delightful seaside resorts and on offshore islands like Rügen and Usedom.

Marvel at 3 Lake Constance, a huge, glacier-gouged bulge in the Rhine, backed by the stunning panorama of the Swiss Alps.

‘Walk on water’ during low tide in 4 Wadden Sea National Park, a mosaic of salt marshes, beaches and dunes.

Commune with nature on the romantic waterways threading through the 5 Spreewald, a timeless forest near Berlin.

BEWITCHING OUTDOORS

There’s something undeniably artistic in the way Germany’s scenery unfolds: the corrugated, dune-fringed coasts of the north; the moody forests, romantic river valleys and vast vineyards of the centre; and the off-the-charts splendour of the Alps, carved into rugged glory by glaciers and the elements. Get off the highway and into the great outdoors to soak up the epic landscapes that make each slow and winding mile so precious.

Black Forest | MARAKO85/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Local Helpers

Local tourist offices can help you find a route to match your fitness and time frame as well as supply you with maps and insider tips.

HEINEMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Tips from the Pros

The Deutscher Alpenverein (alpenverein.de) climbing association is a goldmine of information. It also maintains hundreds of Alpine huts providing lodging and meals.

CANADASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Saving Money

For skiing on a budget, skip the famous resorts in the Bavarian Alps and check out resorts in the Black Forest or Bavarian Forest.

BEST OUTDOOR EXPERIENCES

Explore pine-scented trails in the fabled 1 Black Forest, weaving through mist-enshrouded valleys, fir-cloaked hills and half-timbered villages.

Clamber along the magical 2 Partnachklamm, a narrow gorge with walls rising to 80m high, easily reached from Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

Plunge into the sandstone wonderland of 3 Saxon Switzerland near Dresden, a soul-moving rockscape of pinnacles, buttresses and spires.

Pedal along the 4 Altmühltal Radweg, a multifaceted bike ride taking in river bends, dense forest, ragged limestone cliffs and castle-topped villages.

Walk, cycle or cruise through the romantic 5 Rhine Valley, past steep vineyards, massive medieval castles and charismatic half-timbered wine villages.

REGIONS & CITIES

Find the places that tick all your boxes.

ITINERARIES

Romans, Rivers & Riesling

Festung Ehrenbreitstein, Koblenz | TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Allow: 7–8 days Distance: 535km

This eclectic journey folds grand architecture, absorbing history and fine wine into one enticing package. It takes in key historic cities before slowing down for a sensuous meander along two of Germany’s most storied rivers. Except for in the Moselle Valley, travel can easily be done by car or by train.

1 Cologne 1 DAY

Start in Cologne to marvel at the spellbinding stained-glass interior of its famous cathedral, then climb up the tower for unparalleled city and Rhine views. Match your interests to myriad museums dedicated to everything from chocolate and contemporary art to Roman history. Spend the evening filling up on hearty Rhenish fare and cold Kölsch beer in a traditional Altstadt tavern.

JORISVO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 Aachen 1 DAY

Pay your respects to Charlemagne, whose gilded shrine has lured pilgrims to the magnificent cathedral in Aachen since the Middle Ages. Drop by the modern Centre Charlemagne to bone up on the man and his role in European history, then sample Printen, the local speciality cookie, in a trad cafe. Set aside time to unwind in the thermal mineral waters of the exquisite Carolus Thermen spa.

ART_PICTURES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Trier 1 DAY

Travel back a few more centuries to storied Trier. Nowhere else has Germany's Roman legacy survived as beautifully and tangibly as in this charming town with its ancient amphitheatre, thermal baths and Porta Nigra city gate. Today Germany's oldest city is as unhurried as the Moselle River it sits on, within a grape toss of the country's finest – and steepest – vineyards.

ART4STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 Moselle Valley 2 DAYS

Take your sweet time for the twisty drive down the Moselle River, which zigzags past steep vineyards to meet the Rhine at Koblenz after 195km. Stop to sip crisp Riesling in Bernkastel-Kues with its higgledy-piggledy half-timbered houses and in elegant Traben-Trabach, known for its playful Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) villas. Don’t miss picture-perfect Burg Eltz, one of Germany’s most romantic medieval castles.

ILENE GREENLAW/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5 Romantic Rhine 2 DAYS

Between Koblenz and Bingen, the Rhine has carved a magical valley where vineyards surge skyward in golden, columned symmetry. Half-timbered villages like Boppard, St Goar and Bacharach huddle below medieval castles, some well-preserved like the Marksburg, others evocatively ruined like the Burg Rheinfels. A landmark is the Loreley rock named for a mythical maiden.

KITTYFLY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

6 Mainz 1 DAY

Wrap up in Mainz, whose attractive old town is punctuated by a massive Dom that blends Romanesque, Gothic and baroque architecture. Sample local wines in an Altstadt tavern and view the Marc Chagall–designed windows in the St-Stephan-Kirche and the first printed Bible in the Gutenberg Museum, which honours local boy and moveable-type inventor Johannes Gutenberg.

ALIAKSANDR ANTANOVICH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ITINERARIES

Castle-Hopping Adventure

Altes Schloss, Bayreuth | PECOLD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Allow: 6 days Distance: 450km

This romantic trip will take you across 450km of southern Germany and through a thousand years of the country's history. It's a castle-a-day on this route but when palace fatigue sets in, you'll have no trouble escaping to contemporary art galleries, enlightening museums or traditional taverns serving local sausages and delicious beer.

1 Heidelberg 1 DAY

Start in Heidelberg, Germany’s oldest university town, whose romantically ruined Renaissance castle looms above the Neckar River. Hop on the funicular for fabulous views. Descend back down into the Altstadt, crossing the Alte Brücke and hit the Philosophenweg for an even more impressive panorama back across the river. For the most photogenic experience, time your visit for sunset.

S.BORISOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 Rothenburg ob der Tauber 1 DAY

Drift around the neatly restored half-timbered houses enclosed by sturdy ramparts in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a charming town that lays on the medieval cuteness with a trowel. The ambience is at its most magical early or late in the day when the last coaches have hit the road and you can savour the romance in solitude on unhurried strolls along moonlit cobbled lanes.

OLENA ZNAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Nuremberg 1 DAY

Plunge into historic Nuremberg, birthplace of Albrecht Dürer and home to a celebrated Christmas market. The Nazis held massive party rallies here and later found themselves prosecuted for war crimes at the Nuremberg Trials; both the rally grounds and the courtroom can be visited. Dark history aside, Nuremberg is a sprightly town known for its dark beer and delicious finger-sized bratwurst.

ESB PROFESSIONAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 Bamberg 1 DAY

Don’t miss disarmingly beautiful Bamberg, an architectural masterpiece. Crisscrossed by rivers and canals, it was built on seven hills; one hill has sprouted a gorgeous dome and a fanciful episcopal palace. The entire Altstadt is a UNESCO World Heritage Site teeming with atmospheric taverns that dispense the local Rauchbier, a smokey beer with a faint taste of bacon.

SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5 Coburg 1 DAY

Get your royalty fix in Coburg, famous for its ties to the British royals – Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha married his cousin Queen Victoria in 1857. Albert spent his childhood at the lavish Schloss Ehrenburg, but even more impressive is the Veste Coburg, a medieval fortress towering over the Altstadt. Every July, some 200,000 visitors descend for Europe’s largest samba festival.

MANFREDXY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

6 Bayreuth 1 DAY

If you’re fan of Wagner operas, a pilgrimage to Bayreuth is a must. Hosting the world’s most famous Wagner festival, the city has also honoured the composer by converting his former home into a museum dedicated to his life and work. Take delight in the rococo elegance of the Altes Schloss and Neues Schloss, both one-time residences of Margrave Friedrich and his art-loving wife Wilhelmine.

PECOLD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ITINERARIES

The Northern Stars

Schloss Schwerin | PANI GARMYDER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Allow: 6 days Distance: 335km

Head to Germany’s north because you love the water. From the metropolis of Hamburg, the itinerary hops around delightful cities like Lübeck, Schwerin and Wismar, all boasting a mercantile heritage rooted in the medieval Hanseatic League. The route hugs the Baltic Sea, giving you ample access to lovely stretches of wave-tossed sandy beaches.

1 Hamburg 2 DAYS

This tour kicks off with a bang in maritime Hamburg, a vivacious metropolis that never fails to enchant and entertain. It’s famous for its raucous nightlife centred on and around the Reeperbahn red-light district. Hamburg's naughty side is juxtaposed with such high-brow delights as world-class museums and the Elbphilharmonie.

DIETMAR RAUSCHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 Lübeck 1 DAY

Fall in love with Lübeck, the Queen of the Hanse, whose scene-stealing Holstentor gives way to an Altstadt with origins in the 12th century. Narrow streets lined with medieval merchants’ homes lead you to the Gothic Marienkirche, the gorgeous town hall and the famous Niederegger marzipan flagship store. To get the full low-down on the remarkable story of the Hanseatic League, visit the Europäisches Hansemuseum.

MAREN WINTER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Schwerin 1 DAY

Next up is pastoral Schwerin, a cultural hub hemmed in by crystalline lakes, including the Pfaffenteich created from a dam in the 12th century. Sitting pretty on an island in one of the lakes, Schloss Schwerin is a harmonious mishmash of architectural styles, crowned by a gleaming golden dome. Exploring the surrounding gardens is a joy, as is a stroll around the cafe- and shop-filled Altstadt.

POWELL’SPOINT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 Wismar 1 DAY

Your next stop is Wismar, a small, photogenic town with gabled facades and cobbled streets. Despite its Hanseatic demeanour, it spent most of the 16th and 17th centuries as part of Sweden. There are numerous reminders of this era all over town. The entire Altstadt was UNESCO-listed in 2002. Check out the grand St-Nikolai-Kirche and the 12-sided well on the market square.

FOOTTOO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5 Darss-Zingst Peninsula 1 DAY

Steer off the beaten track to the raw and bracing Darss-Zingst Peninsula. Go for walks along the coast or plop into a Strandkorb (traditional wicker chair) for a day at the beach. The artists’ village of Ahrenshoop has strikingly painted reed-thatched houses, while Prerow is renowned for its model-ship-filled seafarers' church and lighthouse.

SINA ETTMER PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

6 Stralsund 1 DAY

The route wraps up in Stralsund, which during the Hanse days was eclipsed in importance only by Lübeck. Its square gables interspersed with turrets, ornate portals and vaulted arches make it a hub of northern German Gothic red-brick architecture. Have a fish sandwich in the harbour, then get to know underwater creatures from the Baltic and North Seas and the Atlantic Ocean in the Ozeaneum.

SINA ETTMER PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ITINERARIES

Top of the Alpine Pops

Allow: 5–6 days Distance: 375km

This adventurous drive meanders along the foothills of the Bavarian Alps, taking in King Ludwig II’s romantic castles, lakes of crystalline beauty, traditional villages and towering peaks whose mantle of snow remains year-round. It follows the Deutsche Alpenstrasse (German Alpine Road), created in the 1930s and considered Germany's first touring route.

1 Lindau 1 DAY

The route launches in lovely Lindau, cradled in the southern crook of Lake Constance. It's a handsome, outgoing little town with a candy-coloured postcard of an Altstadt, Alpine views (on clear days) and a signature lighthouse that can be climbed. Strolling along the palm-fringed lakeside promenade, past bobbing boats and folk sunning themselves in charming cafes, is an unmissable part of the experience.

JULIA FAERBER SUMMER 23/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 Füssen 1 DAY

Snuggling into the foot of the Alps, Füssen is the gateway to the castles of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau associated with Bavarian king Ludwig II. Ludwig grew up in the latter but it’s the former's fairy-tale vision turned stone that’s a magnet for tourists from around the planet. Plan ahead to avoid sold-out tickets or long wait times and escape the crowds by venturing onto a hiking trail.

FOOTTOO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Oberammergau 2 HOURS

Pull off the road briefly in Oberammergau to check out its traditional houses. Facades are painted with trompe l’oeil frescoes called Lüftlmalerei that typically depict religious themes, historical events or scenes from local folklore. Set in a wide valley surrounded by the Ammergauer Alps, Oberammergau is also famous for its woodcarving workshops and the world-famous Passion Play performed every 10 years since 1633.