A Splash and a Drizzle...: Getting the most out of oil and vinegar in your kitchen
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About this ebook
Just as with any ingredient, the flavours in oils and vinegars must complement the foods they are paired with in order to bring out their subtleties. In this sublime recipe collection for the oil and vinegar aficionado you'll discover which types (and flavours) to use to make classic appetizers like Beef Carpaccio with Gorgonzola and Walnuts, refreshing salads, such as 'Dama Bianca', and exceptional pasta dishes, like Orecchiette with Chickpeas. You'll learn how to make delicate, refined fish dishes, such as Poached Turbot with Watercress Oil and aromatic meat dishes, including Pork Roast Braised with Milk and Fresh Herbs. You'll also be able to put your baking skills to the test with Potato and Gorgonzola Focaccia before tucking into one of the sublime desserts, including an incomparable Olive Oil Ice Cream. Finally, you'll discover the secrets of divine dressings, magnificent marinades and classic cocktails, which you could always make with your wonderful new homemade vinegar.
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A Splash and a Drizzle... - Ursula Ferrigno
A SPLASH &
A DRIZZLE
Ursula Ferrigno
A SPLASH &
A DRIZZLE
GETTING THE MOST OUT OF OIL & VINEGAR IN YOUR KITCHEN
WITH PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAN BALDWIN
Senior Designer Megan Smith
Senior Editor Abi Waters
Production Manager Gordana Simakovic
Creative Director Leslie Harrington
Editorial Director Julia Charles
Food Stylist Emma Marsden
Prop Stylist Jo Harris
Indexer Vanessa Bird
Published in 2024 by Ryland Peters & Small
20–21 Jockey’s Fields
London WC1R 4BW
and
341 E 116th St
New York NY 10029
www.rylandpeters.com
Recipes in this book were previously published in A Gourmet Guide to Oil & Vinegar and Cucina Siciliana.
Text © Ursula Ferrigno 2014, 2016, 2024. Design and commissioned photography © Ryland Peters & Small 2014, 2016, 2024 (see page 176 for full image credits).
ISBN: 978-1-78879-609-5
E-ISBN: 978-1-78879-658-3
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.
A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.
US Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication data has been applied for.
Printed and bound in China.
NOTES
• Both American (Imperial ounces plus US cups) and British (Metric) are included in these recipes for your convenience; however, it is important to work with one set of measurements only and not alternate between the two within a recipe.
• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.
• All eggs are large (US) or medium (UK), unless specified as large, in which case US extra-large should be used. Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems.
• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer. If using a fan-assisted oven, adjust temperatures according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
• When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.
• To sterilize preserving jars, wash them in hot, soapy water and rinse in boiling water. Place in a large saucepan and cover with hot water. With the saucepan lid on, bring the water to a boil and continue boiling for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the hot water until just before they are to be filled. Invert the jars onto a clean kitchen cloth to dry. Sterilize the lids for 5 minutes, by boiling or according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Jars should be filled and sealed while they are still hot.
CONTENTS
Introduction
Introducing oils
Types of oil
Introducing vinegar
Types of vinegar
Soups & salads
Fish & seafood
Meat & poultry
Vegetarian dishes & sides
Breads
Preserves, marinades & dressings
Baking & sweet things
Index
Acknowledgements & credits
INTRODUCTION
Both oils and vinegars are ancient ingredients, known and used variously in many cultures and cuisines for millennia. Oils are mostly pure, with nothing added – especially olive oil – and vinegar is produced by a natural process, the natural souring of wine or beer when exposed to air. Oils, along with other fats, are used in cooking to add richness, variety and smoothness to foods that might otherwise be too dry to eat. Vinegars act as preservatives, and wonderful flavour enhancers.
Olive oil is the oldest food known to man, the olive tree being much older than the grape vine. (And the trees grow in the most beautiful places on earth, according to my grandfather.) We are fairly sure the oil itself has been made in the Middle East from as long ago as 6,000 BC. Olive oil is also one of the healthiest foods, playing a major part in the lauded Mediterranean diet. Professor Tim Spector, an eminent British epidemiologist and medical doctor, advocates extra virgin olive oil in the diet: its polyphenol content is good for the gut and heart, and helps to lower levels of ‘bad’ cholesterol.
But other oils are interesting too. The Ancient Egyptians used cypress and cedar oils, as well as olive, in the embalming process. Vegetable oils of all kinds have been used for centuries in cooking, as lighting fuel, as medicine and for lubrication – and some still are. For instance, in the late 19th century, Rupert Diesel invented an engine to run on peanut oil, and some 150 years later, biodiesel – far greener than fossil fuels – can be made from waste cooking oil.
Vinegar was known to the Babylonians and to the Ancient Egyptians, used for medicinal, preservative, culinary, agricultural and cleaning purposes. And it can be effective in more ways than in the kitchen, even now. For instance, did you know that apple cider vinegar is a magnet for fruit flies? Put some vinegar in a glass, cover the top with clingfilm/plastic wrap and pierce it with several tiny fruit-fly-sized holes. The flies will get into the glass, but can’t find their way out again. And apple cider vinegar has very recently been touted by health gurus: a teaspoonful in a morning glass of water is said to be good for gut bacteria, and more….
Both vinegars and oils are essential in my dispensa (store-cupboard) and in my cooking. I am Italian, and my passion is Italian food, so I tend to lean heavily towards olive oil. I buy different extra virgins: the lighter oils are good for dressing fish, vegetable dishes or more delicate salads and for making mayonnaise; the stronger ones I use for dressing meat and soups, or sturdier salads. Use a basic olive oil or other general-purpose vegetable oil for sautéing, deep-, shallow- and stir-frying: never use extra virgin. I use olive oils in cake-making, substituting a tablespoon for each 25g/1oz of butter. I even put a small container of good olive oil in the fridge, where it sets, and I then spread on toast instead of butter. In fact you can use olive oil instead of butter in many dishes: in mashed potatoes, on top of cooked vegetables, brushing filo or other pastry.
And of course, I have little bottles of more exotic oils, such as sesame, hazelnut and walnut oils, for adding their incomparable flavours to the appropriate dishes.
The oil used in a dish often gives away its culinary and cultural origin: for instance, olive oil in the Middle East and the Mediterranean, sesame and coconut in India and South-East Asia, palm oil in Africa. And so it is with vinegars: northern Europe is known for its malt vinegar, derived from beer-brewing. In France wine vinegars rule, with Spain famous for its sherry vinegar. China uses rice wine vinegar. Fruit vinegars are associated with fruit-producing countries – apple cider vinegar in northern France, and south-western England – and apparently there is even a kiwifruit vinegar which (obviously) is produced in New Zealand.
All have different flavours, and all have different uses: as an acidic additive to many international dishes, to preserve foods as pickles, chutneys and relishes, and to add tang to a multitude of marinades, mustards, sauces and dressings, particularly the famous vinaigrette. An uninspiring casserole can be transformed by the addition of some red wine vinegar, and strawberries and other soft fruit sing when sprinkled with a little fruit or wine vinegar. In the UK, your paper-wrapped fish and chips would not taste the same without the addition of vinegar (usually malt, why?), and your windows will shine after they have been wiped down with newspaper soaked in an inexpensive vinegar.
I was introduced very early on in life to the magical properties of oils and vinegars. My grandfather taught me how to savour olive oil each year, the first taste of the new pressing, and those lessons have remained with me ever since. I hope that you too, through reading the following pages, will learn to love and appreciate these wonderful ingredients as much as I do.
Ursula Ferrigno
INTRODUCING OILS
Oil is one of the most absorbing and tantalizing of subjects, because its origins are shrouded in mystery… Every olive oil producer I have met is truly passionate and their dedication to producing and perfecting this historic food is remarkable.
I love to use many different types of oil in my cooking but I have a personal passion for olive oil. This is undoubtedly because some of my earliest memories in Italy are of my grandfather showing me precisely how to taste it. I enjoyed watching him smack his lips enthusiastically and closing his eyes if the oil he was trying was good.
Good olive oil is bountiful in the lands surrounding the Mediterranean Sea and many have access to excellent oil, which is often stored in large cans, carboys or demijohns and decanted into smaller bottles as needed. In Italy la dispensa (the storecupboard) is incomplete without these magical bottles filled with a golden or green elixir. The opportunity to smell and taste great oil as a child has stayed with me to this day. I think that there’s nothing in the world that compares with a good, freshly milled olive oil.
There is evidence that olives were already being cultivated over 6,000 years ago. It is probable that the plant originated in Syria and it is thought to be very likely that the first people to transform the wild plant into a domestic crop spoke a Semitic language. The journey of olive cultivation from Syria to the Aegean islands and the sunny hills of Anatolia was relatively straightforward. From there, it travelled on to the rest of