Stitched Sewing Organizers: Pretty Cases, Boxes, Pouches, Pincushions & More
By Aneela Hoey
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Stitched Sewing Organizers: Pretty Cases, Boxes, Pouches, Pincushions & More Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Little Stitches: 100+ Sweet Embroidery Designs, 12 Projects Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Make Pincushions: 12 Darling Projects to Sew Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Stitch & Sew: Beautifully Embroider 31 Projects Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
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- Rating: 2 out of 5 stars2/5This version of the ebook comes in text format and has zoomable images inbetween the text. I find it less inspiring as you cannot see the beautiful layout of the original book and you have to flip through more pages.
I prefer the other version on scribd by C&T wich consists of pictures of each whole page, that are zoomable.
The content itself is great. Highly recommended! The only downside for a scribd reader is that it does not give you measurements for the pattern pieces. Hence, unless we get the option to print out pages, we cannot fully make use of it. You‘ll have to follow the instructions choosing your own sizes.
Book preview
Stitched Sewing Organizers - Aneela Hoey
MATERIALS AND SUPPLIES
Following is a selection of the basic materials you’ll find useful to have on hand when making sewing cases and pouches.
Fabric
For best results, use the best fabric. Good-quality quilting cottons are ideal. They not only come in a huge array of designs and pretty colors, but they will also last and wear well. I also like to use Essex Yarn Dyed linens, which complement the print designs perfectly. Manufactured by Robert Kaufman Fabrics, these solids have a great texture and are the perfect weight—not too heavy. These can be exchanged for quilting cottons in any of the projects.
Interfacings
Due to the robust nature of the projects in this book, using the right interfacing is very important for both the finished look and the usefulness of the finished item. My way of looking at interfacing is that it allows you to give additional weight and stability to your chosen fabric while still retaining its soft and smooth characteristics. In putting together these patterns, I have tried and tested different combinations of interfacing to find out what works best for each project. To ensure that your projects turn out like the ones in the pictures, always use the interfacing as recommended. Following is a brief explanation of the different types used in this book. I’ve included brand names and product reference numbers so that you can be sure to end up with the correct interfacing, especially if you are buying online, where all interfacing photos look the same.
WOVEN FUSIBLE INTERFACING
My favorite woven fusible interfacing is Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex. It is 100% cotton and a good general-purpose interfacing to use in sewing projects. It gives strength and robustness when fused to fabric, while keeping the fabric surface perfectly smooth. Because it is woven, it behaves and drapes just like fabric and doesn’t create a crinkled and creased look, as nonwoven interfacings can.
MEDIUM-WEIGHT FUSIBLE INTERFACING
More heavy-duty than the woven interfacing, medium-weight fusible interfacing provides additional stability. I most often use it in addition to Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex when I need a bit more durability in projects. Make sure to buy medium-weight craft interfacing; Pellon 809 Décor-Bond is the one I regularly use.
BATTING
If you are a quilter like me, you will always have a supply of batting scraps. Batting works well as an interfacing when you need to add a little more body to a project. To use batting, either quilt it to the fabric or use a fusible tape to attach it before sewing.
FUSIBLE FLEECE
Fusible fleece is a great alternative to batting, with the added bonus of being fusible. This means it can be cut minus the seam allowance and fused to the fabric pieces, adding body without bulky seams. It is available in low, medium, and high loft (thickness). A low-loft fleece, such as Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece, works perfectly for pouches.
HEAVYWEIGHT FUSIBLE INTERFACING
A heavyweight fusible is a great interfacing to have on hand. It has so many uses in sewing projects, from fabric boxes to bag handles (see Project Tote). It is very sturdy but easy to sew with. Make sure that you buy heavyweight craft interfacing and not the dressmaking alternative, which is an entirely different stabilizer. The product should be described as being suitable for making cap peaks and craft bowls. A few types are used in this book: Pellon 71F Peltex I One-Sided Fusible Ultra Firm Stabilizer (fusible on one side) and fast2fuse HEAVY Interfacing (by C&T Publishing) or Pellon 72F Peltex II Two-Sided Fusible Ultra Firm Stabilizer (fusible on both sides). To prevent double-sided interfacing from sticking to your iron or ironing board as you fuse, protect your equipment with a sheet of silicone release paper or baking/parchment paper. Use needle pullers or grippers between the ruler and interfacing to keep the ruler from slipping as you cut (see Needle Pullers).
Clear Vinyl
Clear vinyl is used in several of the projects in this book. Premium Clear Vinyl (by C&T Publishing) is the perfect gauge and is a breeze to sew. I always sew bindings to my vinyl when using it in projects, which avoids issues with slipperiness when machine sewing. Use needle pullers or grippers between the ruler and vinyl to keep the ruler from slipping as you cut (see Needle Pullers).
Use binding clips instead of pins to temporarily hold vinyl in place before sewing. Also try to follow instructions carefully when using vinyl, because pulling out stitches after a mistake may lead to visible holes and the need to cut new pieces.
Thread
Use a good-quality 100% cotton thread for best results. A 50-weight thread such as that made by Aurifil is a good all-around choice. A 28-weight thread is particularly good for sewing pouches, since it’s a little thicker and stronger. It also gives a nicer finish when used for top stitching, allowing the stitches to stand out a little more.
Wool Felt
Wool felt is beautifully soft and is available in a far greater variety of pretty colors than its synthetic counterpart. Either 100% wool or a blend with at least 30% wool will work perfectly.
Zippers
Zippers are available with nylon or metal teeth. I find the nylon variety handier to have around because they are easy to cut down if you don’t have the correct size on hand (see Preparing Zippers). Metal zippers, on the other hand, are great for giving projects a stylish finish. Use closed-end zippers for the projects in this book. See Sewing Zippers for more information.
Magnetic Snaps
A magnetic snap is a metal fastener that can be inserted into fabric wherever you need a closure. After it is inserted, it closes by magnetic force and can be pulled apart to open. Each snap set comes with two snap parts and two washers. I used pronged snaps for the projects in this book. In the United Kingdom it is easier to find them online if you search for magnetic bag clasps.
See Inserting a Magnetic Snap.
Fabric Glue
Use glue suitable for bonding textiles, such as Gütermann HT2 Textile Glue or Aleene’s Original Tacky Glue.
TOOLS
1. ROTARY CUTTER, RULER, AND CUTTING MAT
This trio is essential for cutting precise pieces. Use sharp rotary blades for cutting fabric and interfacing, and change them often. Keep old blades for cutting clear vinyl and leather.
2. SCISSORS
A medium-size pair of fabric scissors with 6˝ blades works well for cutting curves and snipping threads and seam allowances. Use them only for cutting fabric and thread so they stay nice and sharp. Use a second pair for cutting paper and other materials.
3. PINS
I prefer using pins to hold together layers of fabric for sewing. Simply pin the fabrics together at intervals. There are many types available; my favorites are glass-head pins.
4. BINDING CLIPS
When thicker layers are involved or when