Lonely Planet Devon & Cornwall

DEVON & CORNWALL

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When to Go

Get Prepared

The Food Scene

The Outdoors

The Guide

Exeter & East Devon

Exeter

Beyond Exeter

Exmouth

Beyond Exmouth

Jurassic Coast

Plymouth & South Devon

Plymouth

Beyond Plymouth

Dartmouth

Beyond Dartmouth

The English Riviera

Beyond the English Riviera

Dartmoor, Exmoor & North Devon

Dartmoor

Exmoor

Ilfracombe

Beyond Ilfracombe

South & East Cornwall

Falmouth

Beyond Falmouth

Truro

Beyond Truro

Fowey

Beyond Fowey

North Cornwall & Bodmin Moor

Newquay & the North Coast

Padstow

Beyond Padstow

Bodmin Moor

West Cornwall & the Isles of Scilly

St Ives

Beyond St Ives

Penzance

Isles of Scilly

Toolkit

Arriving

Getting Around

Money

Accommodation

Health & Safe Travel

Safety on Moors & Beaches

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

Family Travel

Nuts & Bolts

Storybook

A History of Devon & Cornwall in 15 Places

Meet the People of Devon & Cornwall

Feeling the Squeeze

The Great Gardens of Devon & Cornwall

Cornwall & the Arts

A Literary Inspiration

This Book

DEVON & CORNWALL

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Gwithian and Godrevy | IAN WOOLCOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

I’ve spent 20 years wandering around the world, but no matter how long I’m away or how far I travel, somehow I always end up shipwrecked back where I started – in Cornwall, my home county. I know the southwest better than anywhere else on the planet, but I still find surprises every time I walk out of my door. That’s the beauty of this place: there always seems to be another cliff to walk, an unknown cove to climb down to, a new tidal pool to paddle in or pub in which to sink a pint. Whether it’s walking Dartmoor’s tors, cycling on Exmoor, watching the waves over Mount’s Bay or getting completely lost on Scilly, it’s a land of endless adventure. And though everyone reckons summer’s the best time, it’s winter I prefer: when the winds whip up, the fog rolls in and the sea gets restless, that’s when you get a glimpse of the region’s granite soul.

Oliver Berry

@olivertomberry

My favourite experience is walking the wild stretch of coast from Botallack to Zennor. It doesn’t get more epic than this: mine stacks, monuments, coves, cliffs, caves, and a cracking pub to end the day.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our second writer and expert chooses the place that, for them, defines Devon & Cornwall

HELEN HOTSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

At first glance, there is a harshness to Dartmoor’s landscapes that some might think hard to love. But there’s something about these wide, windswept moors – such as Combestone Tor (pictured) – with their scrub grass shorn to stubble by free-roaming sheep. There is wild beauty, and a whispered promise of adventure: you feel it amid the tangles of shivering purple heather and in the soft silence of the moss-carpeted woodlands. I’ve travelled the globe, but that untamed land still thrills me like nowhere else.

Emily Luxton

@em_luxton

Emily is a writer and travel blogger focusing on solo female travel and adventure.

COAST & COVES

Hidden coves, wooded inlets, sandy harbours, epic bays: the southwest has a beach to suit all moods. Around the coastline of Devon and Cornwall, you’ll find everything from busy, bucket-and-spade resorts to secret spots known only to a chosen few. Some are easy to reach; others take time, dedication and a hike along the coast path (with a decent map in hand) to discover. Just don’t forget to pack the fins and snorkel.

Kynance Cove | SKOWRONEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Safe Swimming

The official lifeguard season runs from May to September, but only larger, busier beaches are guarded. Swim between the flags and beware of rip tides.

NEIL BUSSEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cliff Walks

Many beaches can only be reached via the South West Coast Path, a stunning circuit of the entire Devon and Cornwall coastline: the views are worth every step.

CHARLESY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Weather Watch

Check the weather before choosing your beach: sometimes, when it’s blowing a hoolie on the north coast, there might not be a breath of wind in the south.

BEST BEACH EXPERIENCES

Walk for golden miles along Gwithian and Godrevy Towans 1 from the Hayle Estuary to Godrevy Lighthouse. Grassy dunes, rock pools, surf, seals and more.

Hike down the steep cliffside to the Lizard’s loveliest beach, Kynance Cove 2 Look out for choughs on the surrounding cliffs.

Escape the outside world altogether on Hell Bay 3, Bryher’s most magnificent beach.

Catch the sea tractor across Bantham Beach 4 to Burgh Island and its landmark art deco hotel.

Wander through the dunes at Saunton Sands 5 and nearby Braunton Burrows, a nature reserve with the UK’s biggest sand piles.

HISTORY LESSONS

From clifftop fortresses to soaring cathedrals, Devon and Cornwall are heaven for history buffs. This corner of Britain has been inhabited since pre-Christian times, and you’ll have the opportunity to experience every era as you explore: Neolithic, Bronze Age, Roman, Viking, medieval, Georgian, Victorian and more.

St Michael’s Mount | ALLAN BAXTER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Heritage Organisations

Membership of English Heritage comes in very handy here: you’ll get free admission to many sites. Overseas visitors can buy a nine- or 16-day pass.

Ancient Past

If you’re a fan of stone circles, you’ll find scores of them here, mostly dotted around Dartmoor, Bodmin Moor and Penwith.

BEST HISTORY EXPERIENCES

Cross the tidal causeway to St Michael’s Mount 1, Cornwall’s dramatic island abbey and the star of a million postcards.

Climb the tower of Exeter Cathedral 2, which was built by the Normans, for incredible panoramic city views.

Brave the gravity-defying new bridge and explore the cliffs at Tintagel Castle 3, King Arthur’s fabled birthplace.

Time-travel into Britain’s prehistoric past at Chysauster 4, one of the country’s best-preserved Iron Age villages.

Visit the former home of swashbuckling Sir Francis Drake at Buckland Abbey 5, then head out along Drake’s Trail.

PARTY ON

County shows, food fairs, music festivals, pagan parties: Devon and Cornwall definitely know how to let their hair down. No matter what time of year you visit, chances are there’ll be a lively festival or event where you can party like a local.

County Shows

Devon and Cornwall both host their own summer county shows, showcasing the best local food and drink, top producers and, of course, a parade of prize-winning animals.

SCORSBY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ditch the Car

Avoid trying to navigate through the crowds on festival days: it’s far less stressful to catch a train, hop on a bus or take your bike instead.

RUTH ASHMORE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Book Ahead

For the most popular events, accommodation can be booked up months ahead, so it’s always worth reserving as early as you can.

BEST FESTIVAL EXPERIENCES

Join the party at Padstow’s May Day 1, a raucous knees-up that’s said to date back to pagan times.

Put on your best pirate voice and and belt out a tune at the Falmouth International Sea Shanty Festival 2.

See ships of all shapes and sizes during the Dartmouth Royal Regatta 3, one of the southwest’s biggest sailing celebrations.

Watch crews from around the world compete at the World Pilot Gig Championships 4 on St Mary’s in the Isles of Scilly.

Look to the skies during the British Fireworks Championships 5, which light up Plymouth for two nights in mid-August.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

With miles and miles of unspoiled coast and countryside, getting out and about in the great outdoors is guaranteed to be a highlight of your trip in the southwest. Surf, SUP, cycle, climb, hike or forage for wild food – the choice of outdoor adventures is endless. If you fancy trying a few different outdoor experiences, look out for one of the region’s many multi-activity centres.

Surfing, Newquay | JUICED UP MEDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Public Transport

Using local trains, buses and bikes enables you to avoid parking headaches and clogged-up summer roads – and it’s obviously greener, too.

NORTH DEVON PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Tide Times

If you’re exploring the coast, stay aware of the tide: it’s always worth picking up a local ‘tide times’ booklet to be safe.

FRANZ-MARC FREI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Cover Up

When spending a lot of time outdoors, remember to slather on some suncream: the summer sun can be fierce, even on overcast days.

BEST OUTDOOR EXPERIENCES

Cycle the Tarka Trail 1, a cross-Dartmoor route running for 30 miles between Braunton and Barnstaple, partly via a disused railway.

Surf in Newquay and Croyde 2, the southwest’s surfing hotspots, or seek out quieter beaches to find more peaceful waves.

Take a dip in the Jubilee Pool 3, Penzance’s wonderful art-deco lido. Plymouth has one of its own, too – the Tinside Lido.

Kayak on the Fowey River 4 in search of local wildlife: herons, kingfishers, egrets, cormorants and more.

Go wild at Adrenalin Quarry 5, offering all kinds of crazy outdoor pursuits – from cliff jumping to zip lining and axe-throwing.

HOW GREEN IS MY GARDEN?

The southwest’s balmy climate and numerous sheltered coastal valleys give it a definite edge when it comes to green-fingered ventures. Many species of trees and plants survive here that would wither anywhere else in the UK – and landscapers have taken full advantage, planting some of the nation’s most spectacular gardens.

Greenhouses, Lost Gardens of Heligan | ALICE-D/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Spring’s the Thing

To see the southwest’s gardens at their best, come in early spring, when rhododendrons, azaleas and magnolias are in full bloom. It’s also bluebell season.

Online Advice

Great Gardens of Cornwall (greatgardensofcornwall.co.uk) publishes a free map detailing 13 of the county’s landmark gardens.

BEST GARDEN EXPERIENCES

Travel the world in the biomes of the Eden Project 1 – there are giant plants from across the globe here.

Walk over a jungle rope bridge in the Lost Gardens of Heligan 2, then see what’s growing in the walled kitchen garden.

Get muddled up in the ornamental maze at Glendurgan 3, perhaps the most impressive of the garden estates around Falmouth.

Experience Scilly’s unforgettable garden hideaway at Tresco Abbey Garden 4, blooming with subtropical species.

Get inspired at RHS Rosemoor 5 – the show garden has veg patches, flower meadows, cottage gardens, woodland and a nationally important rose collection.

EATING LIKE A LOCAL

Whether it’s savouring a cream tea, tucking into fish and chips or trying a traditional Cornish pasty, the southwest is a picnic hamper filled with foodie delights. Pick up crabs off the boats in Newlyn or Brixham, try fresh oysters in Falmouth or pack a picnic and head for the beach.

Anyone for Tea?

The correct way to eat a cream tea is a hotly contested issue: in Devon it’s cream then jam on your scone, but in Cornwall it’s jam then cream.

PETE STUART/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Foodie Festivals

Many towns host food-themed events year-round: the biggest ones are Porthleven Food Festival (April), Falmouth Oyster Festival (September) and Dartmouth Food Festival (October).

JEAN-PHILIPPE OFFORD/ALAMY ©

Fine Wines

There are several renowned vineyards dotted around the southwest – there’s even one on the Isles of Scilly.

BEST FOOD EXPERIENCES

Stop by Ann’s Pasties 1near Lizard village – it’s said to be Cornwall’s best pasty-maker, though the competition is fierce.

Book well ahead for sustainable homegrown grub at Riverford Field Kitchen 2, a famous organic farm just outside Totnes.

Pick your own fruit and veg or settle in for a slap-up Sunday roast at Trevaskis Farm 3, a working farm near Gwithian.

Head down to the wilds of west Penwith to try the unusual flavours of ice cream at the award-winning Moomaid of Zennor 4.

Buy your crabs, lobster and fish straight off the boats from Newlyn 5fishmongers.

THE WILD WEST

Whether you’re an animal lover or a birdwatcher, you’ll find plenty of wildlife-spotting experiences in Devon and Cornwall to keep you occupied. Hop aboard an organised boat trip, go rock-pooling at low tide, or slip on a pair of fins and a snorkel – and make sure you always have a decent pair of binoculars to hand.

Atlantic puffins | MARK CAUNT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Basking Sharks

The world’s second-largest fish (after the whale shark), these gentle giants are regular summer visitors to the southwest’s shores.

SIMON BURT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Grey Seals

It’s pretty easy to spot seals – they often haul themselves onto the rocks or chill out on offshore islands.

PETER TURNER PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Choughs

The red-billed, red-footed Cornish chough was once a rare sight, but is gradually making a comeback.

BEST WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES

Deep-dive without getting wet at the National Marine Aquarium 1 in Plymouth, where sharks, rays and tropical fish fill the tanks.

Spot basking sharks, dolphins and seabirds on a wildlife boat trip from St Ives or Falmouth 2.

Take a trip out to National Trust–owned Lundy Island 3 to see puffins and red squirrels.

Visit the honking residents at the Cornish Seal Sanctuary 4 near Gweek, a rehabilitation centre for orphaned and rescued seals.

Swim with seals, delve into rock pools or catch a boat to your very own deserted island on the Isles of Scilly 5.

GREAT ESTATES

Country houses litter the countryside, a reminder of the days when Devon and Cornwall were the playground of the landed gentry. These days, many of them are owned by the National Trust. Remember to leave plenty of time to explore the grounds: often, they’re even more spectacular than what’s on show inside.

Kitchen at Lanhydrock | ANDREAS VON EINSIEDEL/GETTY IMAGES ©

Trust Us

Membership of the National Trust lasts a year and gains you free admission. There is a seven- or 14-day Touring Pass for overseas visitors.

Free Time

Some estates, such as Trelissick near Truro and Penrose Estate near Porthleven, enable you to walk their trails for free (though you’ll probably have to pay for parking).

BEST COUNTRY HOUSE EXPERIENCES

Step into Upstairs, Downstairs England at Lanhydrock 1, and wander around cavernous kitchens, antique-filled rooms and a huge great hall.

Pretend you’re Hercule Poirot at Greenway 2, Agatha Christie’s summer retreat on the banks of the River Dart.

Feel like you’re in Alice in Wonderland among the outlandish topiary of Antony House 3, on Cornwall’s Rame Peninsula.

Relive the Jazz Age at Coleton Fishacre 4, a south Devon house that shimmers with art-deco style and has gardens to match.

Admire a fabulous collection of horse-drawn carriages at Arlington Court 5, a wonderful slice of life from the Regency era.

AGE OF INDUSTRY

A couple of centuries ago, the southwest was far from the peaceful landscape we see today – it was one of the beating hearts of Britain’s Industrial Revolution. The hills and valleys of Devon and Cornwall once resounded with mine stacks, mineral trains and pump engines, and tall ships sailed here from the far corners of the empire.

Unesco Protected

Large areas of Devon and Cornwall form part of a Unesco World Heritage Site: the Cornwall and Devon Mining Landscape (cornishmining.org.uk).

IAN WOOLCOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Clay Country

At St Austell, you can cycle around a strange lunar landscape of spoil hills and mica pools now known collectively as the Clay Trails.

AT WORLD’S EDGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Safeguarding Historic Sites

Cornwall Heritage Trust safeguards 13 of the county’s most important monuments and historic sites, including the landmark Treffry Viaduct near Luxulyan (cornwallheritagetrust.org).

BEST MINING EXPERIENCES

Delve into the darkness of Geevor 1, the only Cornish tin mine where you can actually venture underground.

Walk the cliffs around Botallack 2 to see some of the most picturesque mining landscapes in the region.

Cycle the Great Flat Lode Trail 3, the rich seam of minerals that runs right along Cornwall’s spine. Expect mine stacks aplenty.

See the Levant Mine & Beam Engine 4 in full steam: it’s one of the world’s only working examples of a beam engine.

Wander along the quays of Charlestown 5, a historic china-clay port that’s often used these days as a filming location.

FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWD

With two national parks and a wealth of nature reserves and protected areas of coastline, Devon and Cornwall are brimming with wild places where, with a bit of luck, you’ll be able to leave the summer crowds far behind. These remote areas feel a world away from the coastal honeypots – they are for people who prefer to experience nature in the raw.

Bodmin Moor | HELEN HOTSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Leave No Trace

Wild camping is only legal on Dartmoor. Make sure you pack out all your rubbish, don’t feed the gulls and definitely leave the barbecue at home.

HENRY TRICKEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Stargazing

Since 2011, Exmoor has been a designated Dark Sky Reserve. Stargazing safaris and night-time walks are offered by the National Park Authority.

BEN BIRCHALL/PA IMAGES VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

Route Finding

It’s worth having a decent map when you’re exploring: the Ordnance Survey publishes a range of 1:25,000 Explorer maps, or you can download its excellent app.

BEST CROWD-FREE EXPERIENCES

Strap on your boots and hit the South West Coast Path 1, which runs for more than 450 miles around the Devon and Cornwall coastline.

Hike between strange granite outcrops, bike old railway trails, explore ancient woodland and uncover the forgotten past of Dartmoor 2.

Lose the crowds on Exmoor 3, combining craggy coast, steep valleys and impossibly green countryside.

Delve into slate caverns, picnic by crashing waterfalls and conquer Cornwall’s highest hill, Brown Willy, on Bodmin Moor 4.

Forage the cliffs and hedge-rows around St Ives 5 and other parts of Cornwall with a wild-food expert, then head home for a wild feast.

MARVELLOUS MUSEUMS

You can’t understand this corner of Britain unless you get to grips with its complicated, fascinating and often conflicted past. There are many excellent museums to visit, ideal for a rainy day (contrary to the brochures, it doesn’t shine all the time in the southwest, you know).

National Maritime Museum | TOM MEAKER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Winter Blues

Double-check opening times if you’re planning on visiting in winter: many museums close early outside summer.

Book Ahead

At many places you can buy your tickets online in advance, enabling you to dodge the summer queues.

BEST MUSEUM EXPERIENCES

View the astounding collection of vessels at the National Maritime Museum 1, and get a fine view over Falmouth Harbour from the Lookout tower.

Tune in to the unlikely story of globe-spanning telecommunications at PK Porthcurno 2.

Marvel at the eclectic, imaginative exhibits on show at The Box 3, Plymouth’s multimillion-pound new museum.

Search for treasure at the Shipwreck Treasure Museum 4 in Charlestown, where a quirky collection of artefacts reclaimed from local wrecks is on display.

Get spooked at the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic 5 in Boscastle, which has a frankly disturbing collection of witchy relics.

ART LESSONS

Is it the rugged landscape? The coastal scenery? The special quality of the light? Whatever it is, the southwest has long been a magnet for artists and sculptors, and there are some first-rate art institutions to visit here – along with scores of little galleries where local artists ply their wares.

Shapes in Stone

The abstract sculptures of Barbara Hepworth can be seen in many places around St Ives, including her own studio and garden.

9548315445/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Still Like Statues

Devon is home to two controversial female sculptures: Damien Hirst’s Verity (pictured), beside Ilfracombe Harbour and Joseph Hillier’s Messenger, outside Plymouth’s Theatre Royal.

A G BAXTER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Stay Informed

Cornwall 365 is a great place to get the year-round low-down on events, exhibitions, festivals and other cultural happenings around the county (cornwall365.com).

BEST ART EXPERIENCES

Learn all about the history of