Lonely Planet Pocket Edinburgh

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Edinburgh

Top Experiences

Dining Out

Edinburgh on a Plate

Bar Open

Edinburgh in a Glass

Treasure Hunt

Edinburgh Souvenirs

Museums & Galleries

Festivals & Events

Architecture

Responsible Travel

Under the Radar

For Kids

Tours & Activities

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Four Perfect Days

Need to Know

Edinburgh Neighbourhoods

Explore Edinburgh

Old Town

Holyrood & Arthur’s Seat

New Town

West End & Dean Village

Stockbridge

Leith

South Edinburgh

Worth a Trip

Rosslyn Chapel

Survival Guide

Before You Go

Arriving in Edinburgh

Getting Around

Essential Information

Behind the Scenes

Our Writer

Welcome to Edinburgh

Edinburgh is one of Britain’s most beautiful and dramatic cities, with its castle perched on the summit of ancient crags and the medieval maze of the Old Town gazing across verdant gardens to the elegant Georgian squares and streetscapes of the New Town. History and architecture are leavened with a bacchanalia of bars, innovative restaurants and Scotland’s most stylish shops.

Princes St | F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

1 Explore Edinburgh Castle

HEARTLAND ARTS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EDINBURGH Top Experiences

1 Go underground at Real Mary King’s Close

JONATHAN SMITH/LONELY PLANET ©

EDINBURGH Top Experiences

1 Hunt down historical treasures at the National Museum

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EDINBURGH Top Experiences

1 Meet Mary, Queen of Scots, at Holyroodhouse

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EDINBURGH Top Experiences

1 Admire the architecture of the Scottish Parliament Building

CORNFIELD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; ARCHITECT: ENRIC MIRALLES

EDINBURGH Top Experiences

1 Come face to face with history at the Portrait Gallery

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EDINBURGH Top Experiences

1 Picnic in Princes Street Gardens

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EDINBURGH Top Experiences

1 Discover the Scottish Colourists at Scotland’s home of modern art

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EDINBURGH Top Experiences

1 Enjoy a coffee on the terrace at the Royal Botanic Garden

JW COHEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EDINBURGH Top Experiences

1 Take a tour of the Royal Yacht Britannia

EDINBURGHCITYMOM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EDINBURGH Top Experiences

1 Decipher the Da Vinci Code at Rosslyn Chapel

KRAFT_STOFF/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Dining Out

Eating out in Edinburgh has changed beyond all recognition since the 1990s. Back then, sophisticated dining meant a visit to the Aberdeen Angus Steak House for a prawn cocktail, steak (well done) and chips, and Black Forest gateau. Today, central Edinburgh has more restaurants per head of population than most UK cities outside London, including a handful of places with Michelin stars.

NUTTAPON PIYAKUNKIAT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Modern Scottish Cuisine

Scotland has never been celebrated for its national cuisine – in fact, from haggis and porridge to deep-fried Mars bars, it has more often been an object of ridicule. But since the early 2000s chefs have been taking top-quality Scottish produce – from Highland venison, Aberdeen Angus beef and freshly landed seafood to root vegetables, raspberries and regional cheeses – and preparing it simply, in a way that emphasises the natural flavours, often adding a French, Italian or Asian twist.

Haggis – Scotland’s National Dish

The raw ingredients of Scotland’s national dish (pictured) don’t sound too promising – the finely chopped lungs, heart and liver of a sheep, mixed with oatmeal and onion and stuffed into a sheep’s stomach bag. However, it tastes surprisingly good and is on the menu in many restaurants, whether served with the traditional accompaniment of mashed potatoes and turnip, or given a modern twist such as haggis in filo pastry parcels with hoisin sauce.

Best Modern Scottish

Condita Michelin-starred perfection from this Southside newcomer.

Timberyard Seasonally changing menu sourced from artisan growers and foragers.

Lookout The best of Scottish produce served with a stunning view.

Best Traditional Scottish

Amber Set in the Scotch Whisky Experience; many dishes include whisky in the recipe.

McKirdy’s Steakhouse Prime Scottish beef, simply prepared and served in a friendly, informal setting.

Witchery by the Castle Wonderfully over-the-top Gothic decor, great steak and seafood, and fine wines.

Cannonball Restaurant Classic haggis, steak and lobster dishes within sight of the castle.

Best Seafood

Ondine Beautiful dining room, with a menu based on sustainably sourced fish.

Fishers Bistro A local institution, with North Berwick lobster a speciality.

Fishmarket Harbourside restaurant and takeaway serving the city’s best fish and chips.

Best Vegetarian

David Bann Smart and sophisticated, bringing an inventive approach to vegetarian food.

Kalpna Long-established Indian restaurant, famous for its all-you-can-eat lunch buffet.

Holy Cow Great-value vegetarian fare, including its famous vegan burgers.

Top Eating Out Tips

A Book well in advance for top restaurants.

A The List (http://food.list.co.uk) has restaurant, cafe and bar reviews.

A Check www.5pm.co.uk for restaurants with tables to spare that evening.

Edinburgh on a Plate

AS FOOD STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cullen Skink Essentials

Named for the old fishing harbour of Cullen on Scotland’s northeast coast, and from the old Scots word ‘skink’ (soup), Cullen skink is a delicious, warming broth made with smoked haddock, potatoes, onion, butter and milk, usually served with crusty bread and butter. Originally a regional speciality, since the 1990s it has become ubiquitous in Edinburgh restaurants, and many places have spruced up the old recipe with the addition of cream, leeks, white wine and herbs.

Cullen skink | ANNA SHILONOSOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Places for Cullen Skink

Scottish Cafe & Restaurant This appealing modern restaurant has picture windows providing a view along Princes Street Gardens.

Amber This whisky-themed restaurant creates genuinely interesting and flavoursome dishes using top Scottish produce, with a suggested whisky pairing for each dish.

Vesta Bar & Kitchen This cafe-bar partners with Social Bite, a social enterprise set up to support the homeless. You can ‘pay a Cullen skink forward’.

Bar Open

Edinburgh has always been a drinkers’ city. It has more pubs per head of population than any other UK city – and they are as varied and full of character as the people who drink in them, from Victorian palaces to stylish pre-club bars, and from real-ale howffs (meeting places, often pubs) to cool cocktail lounges.

JEFF WHYTE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Edinburgh Beers

By the end of the 19th century, Edinburgh ranked alongside Munich, Pilsen and Burton-on-Trent in importance as a brewing centre, with no fewer than 35 breweries. Today the city’s two large-scale breweries – Caledonian (creator of Deuchars IPA) and Stewart Brewing (producer of Edinburgh Gold) – have been joined by an ever-growing number of microbreweries and brewpubs.

Trad vs Trendy

At one end of Edinburgh’s spectrum of hostelries lies the traditional 19th-century pub, which has preserved much of its original Victorian decoration and serves real ales, craft beers and a range of malt whiskies. At the other end is the modern cocktail bar, with a cool clientele and styling so sharp you could cut yourself on it.

Opening Times

Pubs open from 11am to 11pm Monday to Saturday and 12.30pm to 11pm on Sunday. Many open later on Friday and Saturday, closing at midnight or 1am, while some with a music licence party on until 3am.

Best Historic Pubs

Bennet’s Bar Locals’ pub with lovely Victorian fittings.

Cafe Royal Bar City-centre haven of Victorian splendour, famed for Doulton ceramic portraits. (pictured)

Sheep Heid Inn Semirural retreat in the shadow of Arthur’s Seat, famed as Edinburgh’s oldest pub.

Guildford Arms A time capsule of polished mahogany and gleaming brass.

Best Craft Beer Pubs

Brauhaus Tiny bar with a huge selection of beers from all over the world.

Blue Blazer Resolutely old-fashioned pub with a good range of Scottish ales.

Auld Hoose Great jukebox plus a broad range of beers from Scottish microbreweries.

Best Cocktail Bars

Bramble Possibly the city’s best cocktails, served in an atmospheric cellar bar.

Tigerlily Cocktails as colourful as the swirling, glittering designer decor.

Lucky Liquor Co Tiny but highly rated bar serving inventive and unusual cocktails.

Best Whisky Bars

Bow Bar Busy Grassmarket-area pub with a huge selection of malt whiskies.

Malt Shovel Old-school pub with more than 100 single malts behind the bar.

Last Word Saloon Small but well-chosen selection; good place to dip a toe in the world of whisky.

Gigs & Crowds

A The Gig Guide (www.gigguide.co.uk) is a monthly email newsletter and listings website covering pub live music.

A To avoid Friday and Saturday night crowds, steer clear of the Grassmarket, the Cowgate and Lothian Rd.

Edinburgh in a Glass

SJ TRAVEL PHOTO AND VIDEO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Whisky in Edinburgh

Whisky is, of course, the quintessentially Scottish drink, made with malted barley, water and yeast. Until the opening of the Holyrood Distillery in 2019, there had not been any distilleries in operation in Edinburgh since 1925. But the city’s port of Leith was once a centre of the whisky industry, with a dozen working distilleries and acres of bonded warehouses where the spirit was stored and matured.

Scotch single malts | BARMALINI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Where to Learn About Whisky

Scotch Whisky Experience Interactive multimedia attraction that explains the whole process of making Scotland’s national drink.

Holyrood Distillery Take a tour of the city’s first working distillery since 1925.

Royal Mile Whiskies The knowledgeable staff at this long-established shop will help you choose a bottle to remember.

Treasure Hunt

Edinburgh’s shopping experience extends far beyond the big-name department stores of Princes St, ranging from designer fashion and handmade jewellery to independent bookshops, delicatessens and farmers markets. Classic north-of-the-border buys include cashmere, Harris tweed, tartan goods, Celtic jewellery and Scotch whisky.

DAVID RIDLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Princes Street

Princes St is Edinburgh’s trademark shopping strip, lined with big high-street names including Marks & Spencer, Waterstones and the Apple Store. There are more designer boutiques a block north on George St, and smaller specialist stores on Rose and Thistle Sts. There are also two big city-centre shopping malls – Princes Mall, at the eastern end of Princes St, and St James Quarter at the top of Leith St – plus Multrees Walk, a designer shopping complex with Harvey Nichols on the eastern side of St Andrew Sq.

Shopping Districts

Other central shopping streets include South Bridge, Nicolson St and Lothian Rd. For more offbeat shopping – including fashion, music, crafts and jewellery – head for Cockburn, St Mary’s and Victoria St (pictured), all leading off the Royal Mile; William St (West End); and Raeburn Pl and St Stephen’s St (Stockbridge).

Best Department Stores

Harvey Nichols Four floors of