Lonely Planet Spain & Portugal's Best Trips

CONTENTS

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Spain & Portugal

Spain & Portugal Highlights

If You Like

Need to Know

City Guide

Barcelona

Madrid

Lisbon

Spain & Portugal by Region

Spain & Portugal’s Classic Trips

ON THE ROAD

Madrid & Central Spain Trips

1 Historic Castilla y León

2 Back Roads Beyond Madrid

3 The Forgotten West

4 Spain’s Interior Heartland

5 Route of Don Quixote

6 Ancient Extremadura

Northern Spain & The Basque Country Trips

7 Northern Spain Pilgrimage

8 Roving La Rioja Wine Region

9 Lofty Roads: the Picos de Europa

10 Cantabria’s Eastern Valleys

11 Along the Río Ebro

12 North Coast Beaches & Culture

13 Coast of Galicia

Barcelona & Eastern Spain trips

14 Unsung Wonders of Murcia & Alicante

15 Artistic Inspiration on the Costa Brava

16 Central Catalonia’s Wineries & Monasteries

17 Peaks & Valleys in Northwest Catalonia

18 The Pyrenees

19 Barcelona to Valencia

Andalucía & Southern Spain trips

20 Mediterranean Meander

21 Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches

22 Golden Triangle

23 The Great Outdoors

24 Andalucía’s White Villages

25 Olive Oil & the Renaissance in Jaén

Portugal Trips

26 Atlantic Coast Surf Trip

27 Douro Valley Vineyard Trails

28 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches

29 Medieval Jewels in the Southern Interior

30 The Minho’s Lyrical Landscapes

31 Tasting the Dão

32 Highlands & History in the Central Interior

ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS

Spain & Portugal Driving Guide

Driving Licence & Documents

Insurance

Hiring a Car

Bringing Your Own Vehicle

Maps

Road Conditions

Road Rules

Safety

Parking

Fuel

Radio

Spain & Portugal Travel Guide

Getting There & Away

Air

Car & Motorcycle

Sea

Train

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Electricity

Food

Internet Access

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Money

Opening Hours

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone Services

Tourist Information

Visas

LANGUAGE

BEHIND THE SCENES

OUR WRITERS

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some will unfortunately have closed their doors permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

WELCOME TO SPAIN & PORTUGAL

Spectacular beaches, mountaintop castles, medieval villages, stunning architecture – and some of the most celebrated restaurants on the planet: Iberia has an allure that few destinations can match.

There’s much to see and do amid the enchanting landscapes that inspired Picasso, Velázquez and the great epic poets of Spain and Portugal. You can spend your days feasting on seafood in coastal Galician towns, feel the heartbeat of Andalucía at soul-stirring flamenco shows, hike across the flower-strewn meadows of the Pyrenees, or chart a winding route through the spectacular vineyards of the Douro Valley. The 32 trips in this book offer something for everyone: beach lovers, outdoor adventurers, family travellers, music fiends, foodies and those simply wanting to delve into Iberia’s rich art and history.

And if you only have time for a single journey, make it one of our nine Classic Trips, which take you to the very best of Spain and Portugal. Turn the page for more.

Carvoeiro beach, Portugal

PAWEL KAZMIERCZAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

SPAIN & PORTUGAL HIGHLIGHTS

Spain & Portugal’s best sights and experiences, and the road trips that will take you there.

Barcelona

Home to cutting-edge architecture, world-class dining and vertiginous nightlife, Barcelona has long been one of Europe’s most enticing destinations. Days are spent wandering the cobblestone lanes of the Gothic quarter while nights are spent taking in gilded music halls and first-rate tapas bars. The great city of Gaudí is all the more memorable when spied on a grand road trip across Spain, such as on Trip 20: Mediterranean Meander.

Trips 18 19 20

Barcelona

La Pedrera

ANDRIJ VATSYK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

La Rioja Wine Country

La Rioja is the sort of place where you could spend weeks meandering along quiet roads in search of the finest drop, with bodegas offering wine tastings and picturesque villages sheltering excellent wine museums. You’ll also find plenty of surprises, such as a Frank Gehry–designed masterpiece in a tiny village on Trip 8: Roving La Rioja Wine Region.

Trip 8

Algarve Beaches

Beach-lovers have much to celebrate on a drive along Portugal’s sun-drenched southern coast. Breezy islands, dramatic cliffs and seemingly endless stretches of coastline set the stage for rewarding exploring on Trip 28: Alentejo & Algarve Beaches. After a day of surfing or basking, roll up to a beautifully sited restaurant for a seafood feast overlooking the crashing waves.

Trip 28

Algarve Beaches Praia da Falésia

ELOY RODRIGUEZ/GETTY IMAGES ©

Lisbon

With mazelike lanes and hilltop panoramas overlooking the Rio Tejo, Lisbon is marvellous for wanderers. Its neighbourhoods delight the senses: you’ll pass breadbox-sized grocers, brilliantly tiled buildings and candlelit taverns, as the mournful rhythms of fado drift on the breeze. The hardest part of visiting will be tearing yourself away on Trip 29: Medieval Jewels in the Southern Interior.

Trip 29

Spanish Summits

Prepare to be dazzled on a jaw-dropping journey through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in Spain. Set back from the ever-changing coastline of Cantabria and Asturias, the dramatic limestone massifs you’ll see on Trip 9: Lofty Roads: the Picos de Europa are unique in Spain but geologically similar to the Alps and jammed with inspiring trails.

Trip 9

Spanish Summits

Teleférico de Fuente Dé

JOSEIGNACIOSOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©

BEST ROADS FOR DRIVING

The coastal road to São Vicente A clifftop stunner en route to Europe’s southwestern-most tip. Trip 28

The road to Pinhão Terraced vineyards at perilous heights above the meandering Rio Douro. Trip 27

Valle del Roncal Tower above the clouds on this ascent through the Pyrenees. Trip 18

The road to Sant Feliu de Guíxols Spectacular cliffs and crashing waves along the Costa Brava. Trip 15

Central Picos Mountain magnificence and the gateway to adventure. Trip 9

Alto Douro Vineyards

The oldest demarcated wine region on earth has steeply terraced hills, stitched together with craggy vines that have produced luscious wine for centuries. On Trip 27: Douro Valley Vineyard Trails, you’ll travel impossibly scenic back roads with countless vintners offering tours and tastings. Some spots have heritage accommodation – mighty handy when you want more than just a sip.

Trip 27

Alto Duoro Vineyards

Terraced vineyards

PRG-ESTUDIO/GETTY IMAGES ©

BEST PLACES FOR FOODIES

Valencia Birthplace of paella and home to superb eateries. Trips 19 20

Galicia Seafood feasting in beautiful coastal settings. Trips 7 13

Sagres Top spot for traditional Portuguese specialties like cataplana (seafood stew). Trip 28

The Basque Country Home to some of the best restaurants in Spain. Trips 8 12 16

Segovia Famed for its roast suckling pig and other meaty dishes. Trip 1

Madrid

Madrid has a dizzying array of attractions, not least of which is its astounding collection of fine art. You can spend the day gazing at works by Goya, Velázquez and El Greco, then head out into the night for artfully prepared tapas and roaring nightlife. The wall-to-wall bars, small clubs, live-music venues and cocktail bars make a fine finale to Trip 4: Spain’s Interior Heartland.

Trips 1 2 4

Madrid

Museo del Prado

PAT_HASTINGS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Sierra Nevada

Spectacular mountain vistas are only one attractive feature of Trip 23: The Great Outdoors. Spain’s highest peaks are also the setting for outdoor adventure aplenty: walking, horse riding, climbing and mountain biking, with skiing and snowboarding in winter. There’s also wildlife, including ibex. You could spend days exploring Spain’s biggest national park and barely scratch the surface.

Trip 23

Sierra Nevada

Hiking towards Mulhacén

ECUADORPOSTALES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Asturian Coast

Wild and unspoilt, the secluded sandy stretches and mysterious coves lining the Asturian coast hide some of Spain’s most beautiful beaches. On Trip 12: North Coast Beaches & Culture you’ll want to pull over frequently to admire the green hills and rocky headlands. You’ll also eat well at the pretty villages along the way – the food here is famous throughout Spain.

Trip 12

Porto

It would be hard to dream up a more romantic city than Portugal’s second largest. Laced with narrow laneways, it’s blessed with countless baroque churches, epic theatres and sprawling plazas. Its Ribeira district – a Unesco World Heritage site – is a fascinating place to explore. As scenic as it is, it’s just a prelude to the gorgeous landscapes you’ll encounter on Trip 27: Douro Valley Vineyard Trails.

Trip 27

Porto

Ribeira district

ROSSHELEN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Seville

A city of capricious moods and soulful secrets, Seville has played a pivotal role in the evolution of many peculiarly Spanish passions, including baroque art and Mudéjar architecture. It’s also blessed with year-round sunshine, fuelled by ebullient festivals, and the epicentre of flamenco, Spain’s evocative soundtrack – hear it in abundance on Trip 22: Golden Triangle.

Trip 22

Seville

Flamenco dancers

PATFAX/BUDGET TRAVEL ©

Pintxos in San Sebastián

Chefs here have made bar snacks an art form. Sometimes called ‘high cuisine in miniature’, pintxos (Basque tapas) are piles of flavour often mounted on a slice of baguette. The choice lined up on the counter in any bar in central San Sebastián will leave first-time visitors gasping. Trip 12: North Coast Beaches & Culture takes you to Spain’s most celebrated eating scene.

Trips 12 18

BEST SCENIC VILLAGES

Sos del Rey Católico Gorgeous medieval village in the Pyrenees. Trip 18

Albarracín A stunner in rocky Aragón, on the meandering Guadalaviar. Trip 19

Tamariu A beautiful seaside settlement backed by pine-covered hills. Trip 15

Capileira White-washed village that overlooks the lofty Sierra Nevada. Trip 23

Monsanto Surrounds an age-old castle, with great walks nearby. Trip 32

IF YOU LIKE

Beaches

Spain and Portugal have some magnificent stretches of sand, from people-packed beaches to remote windswept shores. Despite Iberia’s summertime popularity, you can find unspoiled beaches if you know where to look.

15 Artistic Inspiration on the Costa Brava Rugged coast with pine-dappled cliffs, pristine coves and wide beaches.

20 Mediterranean Meander A showcase of coastal charm, with beach-loving favourites such as Cabo de Gata and Sitges.

21 Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches Spain’s most famous coastline, with draws like classy Marbella and beautifully set Nerja.

28 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches Portugal’s south coast is a stunner with cliff-backed beaches, seaside villages and great surf.

Wine

In Iberia, wine is king, and the fruits of its picturesque vineyards are famous throughout the world. Rioja and port are well known, but there’s more to discover in this great winery region.

8 Roving La Rioja Wine Region Bodegas, wine museums and vineyards to the horizon – this is Spanish wine’s heartland.

27 Douro Valley Vineyard Trails Head to northern Portugal for breathtaking views over terraced slopes and luscious red wines.

16 Central Catalonia’s Wineries & Monasteries The Penedès plains are the capital of cava country, with cellar tours and vast vineyards.

31 Tasting the Dão Surrounded by mountains, this is the go-to spot for some of Portugal’s best drops.

Art

Spain’s artistic tradition is one of Europe’s richest, from local masters to the continent’s finest, who flourished under Spanish royal patronage. The result? Art galleries of astonishing depth.

2 Back Roads Beyond Madrid Countless galleries and three world-class museums – Madrid looms large in the global art scene.

15 Artistic Inspiration on the Costa Brava Delve deeply into the world of Salvador Dalí, one of Spain’s greatest artists.

20 Mediterranean Meander See artwork by Spanish greats, from Picasso in Malaga to Catalan giants in Barcelona.

32 Highlands & History in the Central Interior A Portugal ramble that showcases Roman collections, Renaissance art and eclectic global works.

Granada

The Alhambra’s Moorish architecture

DAVID IONUT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Architecture

The great building designs across Iberia span centuries, from Roman-era aqueducts and Islamic-era palaces to fantastical 19th-century Modernisme and the cutting-edge works of today.

12 North Coast Beaches & Culture Take in jaw-dropping designs by legendary architects in Bilbao and Santander.

19 Barcelona to Valencia Visit Barcelona’s great Modernista masterpieces followed by stunning 21st-century works in Valencia.

26 Atlantic Coast Surf Trip Iconic works range from 15th-century monasteries to postmodern music halls.

22 Golden Triangle Peer back in time while studying exquisite masterpieces built by the Moors.

Outdoor Activities

Adventure comes in many forms in Spain and Portugal, with seaside activities (kayaking, surfing and swimming), cycling, white-water rafting and great walks in nearly every region.

23 The Great Outdoors With surfing, mountain climbs and wildlife watching, the south of Spain has it all.

17 Peaks & Valleys in Northwest Catalonia Get off the beaten path for white-water rafting and hikes through a stunning national park.

9 Lofty Roads: the Picos de Europa Dramatic peaks set the scene for magnificent walks and kayaking along the Río Sella.

28 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches Sun-drenched days of surfing, sea kayaking and dolphin watching.

Great Scenery

With soaring peaks and flower-filled valleys, Spain and Portugal have glorious landscapes, which make a fine backdrop to country walks – or for simply taking in the view from the open road.

13 Coast of Galicia Bask in the untamed beauty of Galicia’s wild beaches, jagged cliffs and tiny coves.

18 The Pyrenees Stunning scenery lurks around every curve on this soaring drive across northwest Spain.

30 The Minho’s Lyrical Landscapes Head to northern Portugal for meandering rivers and granite-strewn peaks.

3 The Forgotten West Enter a world of fertile mountain-backed landscapes and dramatic river valleys.

Briones

Vivanco Wine Museum

MATYAS REHAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

NEED TO KNOW

CURRENCY

euro (€)

LANGUAGE

Spain: Spanish, Catalan, Basque and Galician Portugal: Portuguese

VISAS

Generally not required for stays of up to 90 days (not at all for members of EU or Schengen countries). Some nationalities need a Schengen visa.

FUEL

Petrol stations (usually open 24 hours) are found along major highways. Expect to pay €1.20 to €1.85 per litre.

CAR HIRE

Auto Jardim (www.auto-jardim.com)

Hertz (www.hertz.com)

Holiday Autos (www.holidayautos.com)

Pepecar (www.pepecar.com)

IMPORTANT NUMBERS

Europe-wide emergencies ( iconphonegif 112)

International access code ( iconphonegif 00)

Portugal: Country code ( iconphonegif 351)

Spain: Country code ( iconphonegif 34)

When to Go

Climate

High Season (Jun–Aug, public holidays)

A Accommodation books out and prices increase by up to 50%. Low season in parts of inland Spain. Expect warm, dry and sunny weather; more humid in coastal areas.

Shoulder (Mar–May, Sep & Oct)

A A good time to travel with mild, clear weather and fewer crowds. In Spain, local festivals can send prices soaring.

Low Season (Nov–Feb)

A Cold in central Spain and Portugal’s interior; shorter, rainier days in both countries. Mild temperatures in Andalucía, the Mediterranean coast and the Algarve. This is high season in Spanish ski resorts. Many hotels are closed in beach areas but elsewhere prices plummet.

Your Daily Budget

SPAIN

Budget: Less than €75

A Dorm bed: €18–40

A Double room in a budget hotel: €50–65 (more in Madrid and Barcelona)

A Tapas: €2.50–4.50

Midrange: €75–175

A Double room in midrange hotel: €65–140

A Lunch and/or dinner in local restaurant: €20–40

A Flamenco show: €18–40

Top end: More than €175

A Double room in top-end hotel: €140 and up (€200 in Madrid and Barcelona)

A Fine dining for lunch and dinner: €150–250

A Regularly stay in Spanish paradores (luxury state-owned hotels): €150–280

PORTUGAL

Budget: Less than €60

A Dorm bed: €15–25

A Lunch special at a family-run restaurant: €8–12

A Basic hotel room for two: from €45

Midrange: €60–120

A Double room in a midrange hotel: €60–100

A Lunch and dinner in a midrange restaurant: €24–40

A Admission to museums €3–8

Top end: More than €120

A Boutique hotel room: from €120

A Dinner for two in a top restaurant: from €80

A Three-day surf course: €150

Eating

Tapas bar Tapas and drinks; open longer hours than restaurants.

Taberna Rustic place in Spain serving tapas and raciones (large tapas).

Panadería/Pasteleria Bakery (Spanish/Portuguese); good for pastries and coffee.

Vinoteca Wine bar where you order by the glass.

Cervecería/Cervejaria (Spanish/Portuguese) Beer hall; the place for snacks and draft beer (cerveza/cerveja).

Marisquería/Marisqueira Eatery specialising in seafood.

SPAIN & PORTUGAL

Price categories indicate the cost of a main course:

Sleeping

Casas rurales/Casa no campo (Spanish/Portuguese) Comfy village rooms, houses or farmhouses for rent in the countryside.

Hostales Simple guesthouses in Spain with en-suite rooms.

Paradores/Pousadas (Spanish/Portuguese) State-funded accommodation, often in castles, converted monasteries and old mansions.

Pensión/Pensão (Spanish/Portuguese) Inexpensive, extremely basic guesthouses, often with shared bathrooms.

SPAIN

Price categories indicate the cost of a double room with private bathroom in high season:

PORTUGAL

Price categories refer to a double room with bathroom in high season. Unless otherwise stated, breakfast is included in the price.

Lisbon Pastel de nata (custard tarts)

SABINO PARENTE/500PX ©

Arriving in Spain

Barajas Airport (Madrid)

Rental cars Major car-rental agencies have desks in the airport at arrival terminals.

Metro and buses Cost around €5 and run every five to 10 minutes from 6.05am to 1.30am (24 hours for buses); it’s 30 to 40 minutes to the centre.

Taxis Cost €30 and reach the centre in 20 minutes.

El Prat Airport (Barcelona)

Rental cars Major car-rental agencies have concessions at arrival terminals.

Buses Cost €5.90 and run every five to 10 minutes from 6.10am to 1.05am; it’s 30 to 40 minutes to the centre.

Trains Cost €4.20 and run every 30 minutes from 5.42am to 11.38pm; it takes 25 to 30 minutes to reach the centre.

Taxis €25 to €35; you’ll reach the centre in 30 minutes.

Seville Airport

Rental cars You’ll find all the normal firms at airport arrivals.

Buses Cost €4 and run to the city centre every 15 to 30 minutes between 5.20am and 1am.

Taxis €23 to €32; it takes 15 to 25 minutes to reach the centre.

Arriving in Portugal

Aeroporto de Lisboa (Lisbon)

Rental cars There is a wide choice of car-hire companies at the airport.

Metro €2 (including €0.50 Viva Viagem card); red line from Aeroporto station; transfer at Alameda for green line to Rossio and Baixa-Chiado. It’s 20 minutes to the centre; frequent departures from 6.30am to 1am.

AeroBus €4; every 20 minutes from 8am to 9pm.

Taxis €15–€20; around 20 minutes to the centre.

Aeroporto de Faro (Faro)

Rental cars Car-rental agencies have desks in the airport.

Buses €2.50; every 30 minutes weekdays, every two hours weekends.

Taxis €15–€20; around 20 minutes to the centre.

Barcelona

Plaça Reial

JACKF/GETTY IMAGES ©

Internet Access

Wi-fi is available in most lodgings and cafes (and is usually free). Internet cafes are rare.

Mobile Phones

Local SIM cards are widely available and can be used in many international mobile phones.

Money

ATMs are widely available throughout both Spain and Portugal. Credit cards are accepted in most hotels, restaurants and shops.

Tipping

Menu prices indicate a service charge. Most people leave small change if satisfied: 5% is fine; 10% is considered generous.

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Travel tips, accommodation, recommendations and more.

Turespaña (www.spain.info) Spanish tourism authority with interactive maps featuring key attractions in every region.

Turismo de Portugal (www.visitportugal.com) Portugal’s useful and official tourism authority.

RAC (www.rac.co.uk/driving-nabroad) Info for British drivers on driving in Spain and Portugal.

Opening Hours

Banks 8.30am to 2pm or 3pm Monday to Friday.

Shops 10am to 2pm and 5pm to 8pm Monday to Friday, 10am to 2pm Saturday in Spain; 10am to noon and 2pm to 7pm Monday to Friday, 10am to 2pm Saturday in Portugal.

Restaurants 1pm to 3.30pm and 8pm to 11pm in Spain; noon to 3pm and 7pm to 10pm in Portugal.

Bars 6pm to 2am.

Clubs 11pm to 6am Thursday to Saturday.

For more, see Road Trip Essentials

CITY GUIDE

BARCELONA

From Gothic to Gaudí, Barcelona bursts with art and architecture. It’s also home to celebrated Catalan restaurants, fascinating neighbourhoods and simmering nightlife. Cap it off with pretty beaches, hilltop viewpoints and historical relics dating back to the Romans, and it’s no wonder Barcelona continues to be one of Europe’s best-loved destinations.

Mercat de la Boqueria

ALE ARGENTIERI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Getting Around

Heavy traffic and narrow, one-way streets can exasperate even diehard city drivers. Luckily Barcelona has an excellent metro system with stops all across town. One-way fares cost €2.40; a day pass is €8.60.

Parking

On-street parking can be difficult to find. You’re better off using a car park (like those located near Plaça de les Glòries or Estació del Nord). Parking costs around €3 per hour or €20 to €30 for 24 hours.

Where to Eat

For fresh seafood, visit the family-run eateries in La Barceloneta near the seaside. Poble Sec and Sant Antoni have some great local favourites, particularly for tapas.

Where to Stay

Base yourself in El Born for access to great restaurants and cocktail lounges. Bohemian spirits are drawn to El Raval, with its eclectic eateries and live-music-charged nightlife. L’Eixample lacks historic charm but has great architecture and the city’s top restaurants.

Useful Websites

Barcelona Turisme (www.barcelonaturisme.com) City’s official tourism website.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/barcelona) Travel tips, accommodation, articles and more.

Miniguide (www.miniguide.co) Insight into Barcelona’s food, culture, nightlife and fashion.

Trips Through Barcelona 18 19 20

TOP EXPERIENCES

Strolling La Rambla

Few pedestrian thoroughfares can rival La Rambla as it cuts a swathe through old Barcelona and down to the shores of the Mediterranean. It’s a canvas, catwalk and stage all in one.

Historic treasures at La Catedral

Barcelona’s cathedral spans the centuries like a sombre and silent witness to the city’s history. Don’t miss the leafy cloister inhabited by geese.

Panoramic views in Park Güell

The playfulness of Gaudí’s imagination runs wild in this hilltop park, an equal combination of verdant garden and Modernista sculptural fantasy.

Tapas at Mercat de la Boqueria

One of Europe’s great produce markets, this is also the centrepiece of Barcelona’s culinary culture. Browse enticing fruits, seafood and baked goods, then head to the back for a tapas feast.

Gaudí’s genius in La Pedrera

One of Gaudí’s great gifts to the city, this apartment block is extraordinary outside and in, and only gets better the higher you climb.

Bar-hopping in El Born

Join locals on an evening of bar-hopping and tapas nibbling in one of Barcelona’s best-loved neighbourhoods, El Born, whose tangle of streets surround the Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar.

Parque del Buen Retiro

GILLES GAONACH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

MADRID

Madrid has transformed itself into one of Spain’s premier style centres and its calling cards are many: astonishing art galleries, relentless nightlife, an exceptional live-music scene, a feast of fine restaurants and tapas bars, and a population that’s mastered the art of the good life.

Getting Around

It’s easy to get lost in this sprawling metropolis. Luckily you can take advantage of Madrid’s extensive metro system (Europe’s second-largest network). A single ticket costs €1.50. A 10-ride ticket is €12.20.

Parking

Do yourself a favour and leave your vehicle in a car park (they cost around €3 per hour and €20 per day).

Where to Eat

Splendid tapas bars abound everywhere, but La Latina is the undoubted queen. Restaurants in Malasaña, Chueca and Huertas range from glorious old tavernas to boutique eateries across all price ranges.

Where to Stay

Base yourself in Madrid’s Salamanca district if you’re seeking somewhere quiet and upmarket – plus it’s perfect for serial shoppers. Staying in Plaza Mayor or Real Madrid will put you in the heart of the busy downtown area. If it’s nightlife you seek, book a place in Huertas or Lavapiés.

Useful Websites

Es Madrid (www.esmadrid.com) Nicely designed town hall website with info on upcoming events.

Le Cool (https://madrid.lecool.com) Upcoming events with an emphasis on the alternative and avant-garde.

Madrid Diferente (www.madriddiferente.com) Restaurants, shops and upcoming events with a refreshingly offbeat style.

Trips Through Madrid 1 2 4

TOP EXPERIENCES

Grand masterpieces at Museo del Prado

One of the world’s great art galleries, this must-see showcases Spanish paintings including works by Goya and Velázquez.

Idyllic walks in Parque del Buen Retiro

Join locals on a scenic stroll through beautifully landscaped gardens, laid out in the 17th century by Felipe IV.

Captivating artworks in Centro de Arte Reina Sofía

A spectacular gallery that stages outstanding contemporary shows. It’s impossible not to be moved while gazing upon Picasso’s heart-wrenching Guernica.

Royal decadence at the Palacio Real

This lavish palace is a fine place to lose yourself among Italianate baroque decadence.

Lisbon’s famous yellow trams

GRZEJNIK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LISBON

Spread across steep hillsides that overlook the Rio Tejo, Lisbon has captivated visitors for centuries. Windswept vistas at breathtaking heights reveal the city in all its beauty: Roman and Moorish ruins, white-domed cathedrals and grand plazas lined with sun-drenched cafes. But the real delight of discovery is delving into the narrow cobblestone lanes.

Getting Around

Driving around Lisbon is challenging, particularly in the narrow, winding lanes in the old centre. The city has a good metro system, and tram lines (particularly number 28) are an atmospheric way of getting around town.

Parking

Car park rates can be expensive in the centre, and street parking spaces are often scarce. Good free places to park are Campo de Santa Clara near the Alfama (good daily except Tuesday and Saturday when the market is on) and along Av 24 de Julio, west of Cais do Sodré.

Where to Eat

Follow the scent of chargrilled sardines and the sound of fado (traditional Portuguese melancholic song) to lively outdoor restaurants in the Alfama. Foodies should head to the Chiado, which has some excellent restaurants. Though better known for its nightlife, nearby Bairro Alto also has some gems.

Where to Stay

Base yourself in the Chiado for elegant boutique hotels with great restaurants and bars close by. The web-like lanes of the Alfama have great charm but getting to other parts of the city is challenging. Leafy Prínicipe Real has some good options and feels less touristy than other areas.

Useful Websites

Go Lisbon (www.golisbon.com) Curated info on sights, restaurants, bars and shops.

Lisbon Lux (www.lisbonlux.com) Trendy city guide.

Visit Lisboa (www.visitlisboa.com) Culture, food, city highlights.

Trip Through Lisbon 29

TOP EXPERIENCES

Atmospheric lanes of the Alfama

Plan to get lost in Lisbon’s medina-like district of tangled alleys and terracotta-roofed houses that tumble down to the river.

Architectural wizardry in Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

This 16th-century monastery is pure eye candy, with a magnificent facade, columns like tree trunks and an elaborate cloister.

Magnificent views from Castelo de São Jorge

On a windswept hilltop, this centuries-old fortification offers a window into Lisbon’s Visigoth, Moorish and Christian past. The views are jaw-dropping.

Hearing fado in Mesa de Frades

Hear the raw power of fado at this traditional, tile-lined dining and concert space in the Alfama. (www.mesadefrades.com)

Spain & Portugal by Region

Sparkling beaches, towering peaks, medieval villages and world-class dining: there’s much to discover on an Iberian road trip. Here’s your guide to what each region has to offer and the best drives to experience.

SPAIN & PORTUGAL CLASSIC TRIPS

Segovia

Alcázar

EMPERORCOSAR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

What Is a Classic Trip?

All the trips in this book show you the best of Spain & Portugal, but we’ve chosen nine as our all-time favourites. These are our Classic Trips – the ones that lead you to the best of the iconic sights, the top activities and unique Iberian experiences. Turn the page to see a map of these Classic Trips and look out for them throughout the book.

1 Historic Castilla y León 7 Days

7 Northern Spain Pilgrimage 5–7 Days

8 Roving La Rioja Wine Region 2–3 Days

15 Artistic Inspiration on the Costa Brava 2–4 Days

20 Mediterranean Meander 7 Days

21 Costa del Sol Beyond the Beaches 3–4 Days

23 The Great Outdoors 7 Days

27 Douro Valley Vineyard Trails 5–7 Days

28 Alentejo & Algarve Beaches 4–6 Days

Seville

La Lonja

ANZELETTI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Madrid & Central Spain

WELCOME TO THE SPANISH HEARTLAND, TO THIS MOST SPANISH OF SPAIN’S REGIONS where history is writ large and magnificently on seemingly every corner. On your journeys across the meseta, Spain’s high plateau that surrounds Madrid, you’ll encounter some of Spain’s most spectacular cities – from Cáceres to Cuenca, Segovia to Salamanca – as well as cathedral towns par excellence (Toledo, León and Burgos). Savour castles and Roman relics, tilt at windmills in the finest tradition of Don Quixote, and tread lightly through some of the most beautiful villages (Covarrubias, Atienza, Chinchón) and medieval towns (Trujillo, Sigüenza, Cuenca) in Europe. Above all, you’ll get a taste for Old Spain and the stirring relics it left behind.

Madrid

Plaza Mayor

MAYLAT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Madrid & Central Spain

icon1gif Historic Castilla y León 7 Days

Madrid to Soria via some of inland Spain’s captivating towns and villages.

icon2gif Back Roads Beyond Madrid 5–7 Days

Route running south and east of the capital through wonderfully historic towns.

icon3gif The Forgotten West 4–6 Days

From Cáceres to deep canyons with villages and quiet back roads en route.

icon4gif Spain’s Interior Heartland 5–7 Days

Journey through northern Spain with Roman and quintessentially Spanish attractions along the way.

icon5gif Route of Don Quixote 4–6 Days

Detective trail across La Mancha in search of Spain’s favourite literary hero.

icon6gif Ancient Extremadura 5–7 Days

Medieval towns, Roman ruins, remote castles and Extremadura’s the home of jamón (dry-cured ham).

iconredcheckgif DON’T MISS

Covarrubias

Stunning – and little known – riverside village. Step behind its walls and into another world on Trip 1

Café de la Iberia, Chinchón

Chinchón hides between motorways that whisk travellers elsewhere. Eat where Goya ate, overlooking a special square on Trip 2

San Martín del Castañar

Lost in the wilds of Spain’s west, this village ranks in the country’s top five for at least one Lonely Planet writer. Find it on Trip 3

El Toboso

Other towns have windmills, but if you really want to understand the cult of Don Quixote, visit El Toboso on Trip 5

Museo del Jamón, Monesterio

Extremadura’s most celebrated jamón-producing town has a museum worthy of this peculiarly Spanish obsession. Get a taste on Trip 6

El Toboso

Don Quixote sculpture

MIGEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Historic Castilla Y León

Madrid

Segovia

Ávila

Salamanca

Zamora

Toro

Tordesillas

Peñafiel

Burgos

Covarrubias

Soria

HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN

This journey through Spain’s Castilian heartlands takes in some of the country’s most engaging historic cities and larger towns, with many time-worn pueblos (villages) en route.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

7 DAYS

764KM / 475 MILES

GREAT FOR…

BEST TIME TO GO

March to May, and September and October to avoid extremes of heat and cold.

iconphotogif ESSENTIAL PHOTO

Plaza Mayor, Salamanca, floodlit at night.

iconcheckgif BEST FOR CULTURE

Irresistible Salamanca street life against a glorious architectural backdrop.

Salamanca

Plaza Mayor

FéLIX PAGAIMO/500PX ©

Historic Castilla y León

From Segovia to Soria, the towns of Castilla y León rank among Spain’s most appealing historic centres. Architecture may be central to their attraction, but these are no museum pieces. Instead, the relentless energy of life lived Spanish-style courses through the streets, all set against a backdrop of grand cathedrals and animated stately squares. Out in the countryside, postcard-perfect villages complement the clamour of city life.

Top of Chapter

1 Madrid

Madrid is the most Spanish of all of Spain’s cities. Its food culture, drawn from the best the country has to offer, makes it one of Europe’s more underrated culinary capitals, while its nightlife and irresistible alegría (joy) exist like some Spanish stereotype given form. But there is more to Madrid than just nonstop colour and movement. This is one of the premier art cities on the continent, with three world-class galleries – the Museo del Prado (www.museodelprado.es; Paseo del Prado; adult/concession/child €15/7.50/free, 6-8pm Mon-Sat & 5-7pm Sun free, audio guide €3.50, admission plus official guidebook €24; iconhoursgif 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; icon-metrogif Banco de España), Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza ( iconphonegif 902 760511; www.museothyssen.org; Paseo del Prado 8; adult/child €13/free, Mon free; iconhoursgif 10am-7pm Tue-Sun, noon-4pm Mon; icon-metrogif Banco de España) and Centro de Arte Reina Sofía ( iconphonegif 91 774 10 00; www.museoreinasofia.es; Calle de Santa Isabel 52; adult/concession €10/free, 1.30-7pm Sun, 7-9pm Mon & Wed-Sat free; iconhoursgif 10am-9pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 7pm Sun; icon-metrogif Estación del Arte) – all clustered close to one of the city’s main boulevards and a short walk from the Parque del Buen Retiro, one of the loveliest and most expansive monumental parks in Europe. In short, this is a city that rewards those who linger and long to immerse themselves in all things Spanish.

The Drive » Getting out of Madrid can be a challenge, with a complicated system of numbered motorways radiating out from the city. Drive north along the Paseo de la Castellana, turn west along the M50 ring road, then take the A6, direction A Coruña. Of the two main roads to Segovia from the A6, the N603 is the prettier (92km).

Top of Chapter

TRIP HIGHLIGHT

2 Segovia

Unesco World Heritage–listed Segovia is a stunning confluence of everything that’s good about the beautiful towns of Castilla. There are historic landmarks in abundance, among them the Roman Acueducto, the fairy-tale Alcázar ( iconphonegif 921 46 07 59; www.alcazardesegovia.com; Plaza de la Reina Victoria Eugenia; adult/concession/under 6yr €5.50/3.50/free, tower €2.50, audio guide €3; iconhoursgif 10am-8pm Apr-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Mar; icon-familygif ), which is said to have inspired Walt Disney, and Romanesque gems such as the catedral ( iconphonegif 921 46 22 05; www.turismodesegovia.com; Plaza Mayor; adult/child €3/free, Sun morning free, tower tour €4; iconhoursgif 9am-9.30pm Apr-Oct, 9.30am-6.30pm Nov-Mar, tower tours 10.30pm, noon, 1.30pm & 4pm year-round, plus 6pm & 7.30pm Apr-Oct) or the Iglesia de San Martín (Plaza de San Martín; iconhoursgif 10am-6pm Mon-Sat).

This is also one of the most dynamic towns in the country, a winning mix of students and international visitors filling the city’s bars and public spaces with an agreeable crescendo of noise. To cap it all, the setting is simply superb – a city strung out along a ridge, its warm terracotta and sandstone hues arrayed against a backdrop of Castilla’s rolling hills and the often snow-capped Sierra de Guadarrama.

There are many vantage points to take in the full effect, but our favourite can be found anywhere in the gardens near the entrance to the Alcázar.

5 4 here

The Drive » It’s 66km from Segovia to Ávila along the N110. The road runs southwest, parallel to the Sierra de Guadarrama, with some pretty views en route. Around halfway, you’ll cross the A6 motorway.

Segovia

Roman Acueducto

RUI VALE SOUSA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

iconlinkgif LINK YOUR TRIP

2 Back Roads Beyond Madrid

Also starting in Madrid, this loop south and east of the capital takes in the historic towns and villages of Madrid’s hinterland.

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