Lonely Planet Pocket Stockholm
By Becky Ohlsen and Charles Rawlings-Way
2/5
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About this ebook
Lonely Planet’s Pocket Stockholm is your guide to the city’s best experiences and local life - neighbourhood by neighbourhood. Wander in historic Skansen, jump into the seafaring past at Vasamuseet and test the waters in the Stockholm Archipelago; all with your trusted travel companion. Uncover the best of Stockholm and make the most of your trip!
Inside Lonely Planet’s Pocket Stockholm:
Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak
Full-colour maps and travel photography throughout
Highlights and itineraries help you tailor a trip to your personal needs and interests
Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots
Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices
Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss
Convenient pull-out Stockholm map (included in print version), plus over 19 colour neighbourhood maps
User-friendly layout with helpful icons, and organised by neighbourhood to help you pick the best spots to spend your time
Covers Gamla Stan, Norrmalm, Djurgarden & Skeppsholmen, Sodermalm, Ostermalm, Kungsholmen, Vasastan and more
The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s Pocket Stockholm, an easy-to-use guide filled with top experiences - neighbourhood by neighbourhood - that literally fits in your pocket. Make the most of a quick trip to Stockholm with trusted travel advice to get you straight to the heart of the city.
Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet’s Sweden guide for a comprehensive look at all that Sweden has to offer.
About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day.
'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times
'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)
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Book preview
Lonely Planet Pocket Stockholm - Becky Ohlsen
Contents
Plan Your Trip
Stockholm’s Top Experiences
Dining Out
Bar Open
Live Music
Treasure Hunt
Fashion
Design
Architecture
Museums & Galleries
For Kids
Parks
LGBTIQ+
For Free
Festivals & Events
Four Perfect Days
Need to Know
Explore Stockholm
Gamla Stan
Norrmalm
Djurgården & Skeppsholmen
Södermalm
Östermalm
Kungsholmen
Vasastan
Worth a Trip
Millesgården
Drottningholm
The Archipelago
Survival Guide
Survival Guide
Before You Go
Arriving in Stockholm
Getting Around
Essential Information
Responsible Travel
Language
Behind the Scenes
Our Writer
COVID-19
We have re-checked every business in this book to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.
Stockholm’s
Top Experiences
1 Explore in the open air at Skansen
shutterstockRF_300297542-jpgANDREY SHCHERBUKHIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Stockholm’s Top Experiences
1 Study a shipwreck at Vasamuseet
LPI-19811-38-jpgJONATHAN SMITH/LONELY PLANET ©
Stockholm’s Top Experiences
1 Visit the royal residence at Drottningholm
shutterstock_466707071-jpgKALIN EFTIMOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Stockholm’s Top Experiences
1 Get on the water in the Archipelago
shutterstock_689637034-jpgTOBYPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Stockholm’s Top Experiences
1 Tour the royal palace, Kungliga Slottet
shutterstockRF_67929517-jpgJENIFOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Stockholm’s Top Experiences
1 Enter the world of Carl Milles at Millesgården
shutterstock_273139895-jpgSTEFAN HOLM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Stockholm’s Top Experiences
1 Get to know the Vikings at Historiska Museet
LPI-19812-72-jpgJONATHAN SMITH/LONELY PLANET ©
Stockholm’s Top Experiences
1 Admire modern art at Moderna Museet
shutterstock_736299640-jpgKIEVVICTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Stockholm’s Top Experiences
1 Appreciate photography at Fotografiska
shutterstockRF_725119861-jpgMICHAEL715/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Stockholm’s Top Experiences
1 Tour the mighty Stadshuset
shutterstock_395274196-jpgA ALEKSANDRAVICIUS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Dining Out
Stockholm is a city of food obsessions. The relatively small city has more than half a dozen Michelin-starred restaurants, with new and exciting places opening constantly, serving everything from veggie-minded superfoods to fast-food fads like the indefatigable burger. It’s not unusual for people to plan their visits here around restaurant menus.
jpgMICHELMOND/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Daily Dining
If you don’t plan on daily five-star dining, Stockholm’s cafes offer a good range of salads, sandwiches etc. Vegetarians and the health-conscious are in luck, too, thanks to the recent explosion of ‘green’ restaurants serving nourishing superfood bowls of fresh produce and grains. At the other end of the spectrum, the city is currently obsessed with cheeseburgers.
Street Snacks
In the world of Swedish street food, hot dogs reign supreme – the basic model is called a grillad korvmed bröd (hot dog in a bun), although you can also ask for it boiled (kokt). Adventurous souls can request myriad different things done to their korv, chiefly involving rolling it up in flatbread with accompaniments from shrimp salad to mashed potatoes.
Festive Flavours
Around Christmas, many restaurants offer a julbord, a particularly gluttonous version of Sweden’s world-famous smörgåsbord buffet. Among the usual delicacies of herring, gravlax, meatballs, short ribs and blood pudding are seasonal gems like Janssons frestelse, a casserole of sweet cream, potato, onion and anchovy.
Best Restaurants
Kryp In An intimate, excellent dining spot that’s upmarket without pretension.
Rosendals Trädgårdskafe Enjoy gorgeous produce in the midst of Djurgården botanical splendour.
Hermans Trädgårdscafé Top-flight vegetarian buffet with wide-open views.
Grands Verandan Best place in town to launch into a classic Swedish smörgåsbord.
Woodstockholm New twists on traditional dishes, plus a wine bar.
Ekstedt Reindeer and pike-perch cooked in a wood-fired oven – what’s not to like?
Best Vegetarian
Hermitage A fantastic veggie buffet in Gamla Stan.
Holy Greens A super-healthy take on fast food: delicious bowls of superfoods and proteins.
Mahalo Healthy bowls of greens, grains and trendy good-for-you things.
Chutney Heaping plates of vegetarian curries and stews in Södermalm.
Rutabaga Artful veggie delights from celebrity chef Mathias Dahlgren.
Best Swedish
Magnus Ladulås Swedish classics served in a medieval Gamla Stan setting.
Fem Små Hus A perfect combination of authentic historical setting and traditional cuisine.
Pelikan An old-school Swedish beer hall with a solid menu of classics. If you haven’t tried herring or reindeer yet, here’s your chance.
Sturekatten Sip coffee or tea with cakes at this adorable old-school Östermalm cafe.
Top Tips
A The weekday lunch special called dagens rätt is great value. It’s a set menu served between 11am and 2pm, including a hot main dish, salad, drink, bread and coffee.
A Many vegetarian eateries are also all-you-can-eat buffets, which are popular with locals.
A For Swedish husmanskost (home cooking), head to old-school pubs and trad restaurants.
Bar Open
Nightlife in Stockholm ranges from a quiet pint in an underground cellar to a neon-lit club that only gets kicking around 3am. If you plan to hit the late-night clubs, it’s important to check the website and put your name on the guest list. Dress to the nines and follow your instincts – or follow the crowd – and you’re bound to find a good time.
jpgJONATHAN SMITH/LONELY PLANET ©
Best Clubs & Bars
Akkurat A great Södermalm beer bar, with mussels on the menu.
Berns Salonger Fancy, well-designed space with loads of history. Live music and DJs. (pictured)
Café Opera Rock stars cavort in one of the loveliest interiors in Stockholm.
East Good sushi and great cocktails at this Stureplan hang-out.
Kvarnen Traditional Södermalm beer hall with a popular late-night dance space.
Sturecompagniet The relatively low-key option in Stureplan, in a pretty, baroque space.
Lemon Bar Friendly Kungsholmen cocktail bar where late-night dancing is a very real possibility.
Solidaritet A Norrmalm dance club hosting electronic music and international DJs.
Debaser Strand Cool and friendly Södermalm bar with regular live music, at Hornstull beach.
Spy Bar A famously difficult club to get into, unless you’re famous (or at least look like you are).
Top Tips
A Coat checks are mandatory in many clubs and bars. There’s usually a small fee (20kr to 30kr).
A On popular nights, clubs may also charge a fairly hefty admission fee (150kr to 200kr) – and make you wait in line (unless you’ve managed to get yourself on the guest list).
A Some clubs stay open later than the tunnelbana runs. Budget for a taxi.
Live Music
On any night in Stockholm you can catch emerging indie acts, edgy rock, blues and Balkan pop. Jazz has a particularly strong presence, with several legendary venues saxing it up and an annual jazz festival in October. Classical concerts can be surprisingly affordable, and big names in rock and pop music tour through the city regularly.
LPI-19812-22-jpgJONATHAN SMITH/LONELY PLANET ©
Jazz
Swedish jazz has been going strong since the 1930s, and peaked in the ’50s with artists such as Lars Gullin and Monica Zetterlund. Live jazz clubs are popular; the annual Stockholm Jazz Festival (www.stockholmjazz.com; ticket price varies by venue; icon-hoursgif hOct) is mandatory listening.
Rock & Pop
Everyone knows about ABBA of course, and fans can check out their museum...but there’s a lot more to Swedish pop than Agnetha, Björn, Benny and Frida. Sweden is the third-largest exporter of music in the world, behind the US and UK, remarkable when you consider the size of the population.
Opera & Classical
There’s no shortage of live experiences in the classical or operatic realms here, either. The Stockholm opera house is a national landmark, while the classical Konserthuset is both affordable and accessible.
Best Jazz & Rock
Glenn Miller Café Jazz and blues bar with a devoted crowd of regulars.
Debaser Strand Indie rock and mainstream acts.
Mosebacke Etablissement Big-name live bands and local faves.
Stampen Homey jazz and blues joint.
Fasching Premier jazz club, weekend DJs. (pictured)
Best Opera & Classical
Konserthuset Classical concerts are held in this elegant blue building.
Operan The royal opera house – any visit here is an experience.
Treasure Hunt
Shopping is a sport, a pleasure and an art form in Stockholm. Whether you’re just browsing or looking for specific