Gennaro's Passione
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About this ebook
A glorious update of a modern classic – full of colourful recipes that evoke Italian life at its most enticing, Passione is the story of Gennaro Contaldo’s upbringing in Italian food and will teach you to cook like a true Italian.
Born just metres away from the sea on Italy’s stunning Amalfi coast, Gennaro learnt from his father how to seek out wild food – free-diving for oysters, foraging for wild mushrooms and missing school to go fishing. This adventurous spirit lived on throughout Gennaro’s career in food and was what went on to inspire Jamie Oliver to call Gennaro his ‘London dad’. It was summed up here in this first, glorious collection of his favourite Italian recipes, originally published in 2003. Lovingly restored and updated for the modern kitchen, this new edition of this classic book features photographs from Gennaro’s childhood alongside stunning food and travel photography. Over 100 recipes, full of delightful personal recollections, share the secrets of Gennaro’s love affair with Italian food, and will inspire cooks of all abilities to taste the true flavours of the Italian coastline. Buon appetito!‘His talent for cooking and story-telling changed my life and food forever. ’ Jamie Oliver‘The man cooks like an angel and no ordinary angel. ’ Matthew Norman, Sunday Telegraph
Gennaro Contaldo
Gennaro Contaldo’s warmth, Italian spirit and sense of fun have led him to be one of the UK’s most-loved chefs. He is renowned for being a mentor to Jamie Oliver and teaching him, with Carluccio, everything Jamie knows about Italian cooking. In 1999, he opened Passione in London, which was awarded Best Italian restaurant in 2005. He is a favourite on Saturday Kitchen, has his own YouTube food channel, and is an ambassador for Citalia, Parmigiano Reggiano and Birra Moretti. This is his seventh book with Pavilion, which include Pasta Perfecto and Fast Cook Italian. He lives in east London with his wife and twin daughters. @gennarocontaldo
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Gennaro's Passione - Gennaro Contaldo
zuppe
soup
We make very fine soup in Italy. I remember having soup as a child and being able to pinpoint every single ingredient used. It tasted nothing like the bland liquid you find in a tin these days.
Every member of my family had a favourite soup. My uncle, the baker, who shared my passion for chestnuts, invented a chestnut soup. It was made from sun-dried chestnuts simmered in water with a single clove of garlic, olive oil, rosemary and lemon. Amazingly simple, yet so tasty.
My sister, Phelomena, ate soup because she believed it would help her keep her figure. She was fervent in her soup making, and was rewarded with a remarkable balance of flavours that I haven’t tasted since. She made the most beautiful vegetable soup.
My mother loved soup because it was a good way of using up leftovers: cheese that was too hard to grate, scraps of meat and vegetables, even pasta. Despite this, her soups always tasted magnificent. My father liked to make game soup, using up all his hunting bounty.
We had soup all year round, including cold tomato soup in the hottest summer months. Over-ripe tomatoes were passed through a gadget to remove their skins, then oil, basil, lemon and cold vegetable stock were added to the pulp. The taste was phenomenal.
brodo di pollo
chicken broth
Ask your butcher for a boiling chicken, if he has one. If not, use a roasting chicken. The flavour of home-made chicken broth is wonderful, and it is very simple to make: just put everything in a pan and forget about it for an hour and a half. To make it into a soup, either add some pasta for a typical light Italian brodino or, for a more substantial soup, add shredded chicken, chopped vegetables and pasta.
You can use the broth as stock in other soups, risotto, etc. The chicken can be eaten hot or cold as a main course, together with the vegetables, livened up with a little Salsa Verde. The chicken is also delicious served cold, drizzled with a little extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
serves 6–8
1.75kg/4lb chicken
4 carrots, cut in half lengthways and then in half again
3 onions, peeled but left whole
6 celery stalks, including lots of leaves, squashed and roughly chopped
6 cherry tomatoes, squashed
a bunch of parsley stalks, roughly chopped
4 litres/7 pints water
salt
Place all the ingredients in a large saucepan and bring just to the boil. Reduce the heat, cover with a lid and simmer very gently for 1½ hours.
Remove the chicken and vegetables from the pan and strain the liquid through a fine sieve to give a clear broth. Alternatively, if you prefer, you can leave the little bits of vegetables and herbs floating in the broth. The broth will keep in the fridge for 5 days.
Variation To make an Italian brodino, place some of the liquid in a smaller saucepan and bring to the boil, then add small dried pasta or small meat-filled agnolotti. Reduce the heat slightly and simmer until the pasta is al dente. Serve immediately in individual soup bowls with some freshly grated Parmesan.
Illustrationzuppa di piselli e menta fresca
pea and fresh mint soup
As soon as spring arrived, we loved to make dishes with the season’s new produce, such as fresh peas and herbs. Although the days were hotter, the evenings were still cool, so to keep warm but still have that fresh spring flavour, we would often make a soup such as this one. Try to use fresh peas. It might be hard work to shell such a large quantity but it is well worth it in the end. If necessary you can use frozen peas, or a combination of both.
serves 4–6
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 shallots, finely sliced
50g/2oz pancetta, finely diced
½ celery stalk, finely chopped
500g/1lb 2oz fresh peas (shelled weight)
1 small iceberg lettuce, roughly chopped
1 large potato, peeled and cut into cubes
1 litre/1¾ pints vegetable stock
15 fresh mint leaves, finely chopped, plus a few sprigs of mint to serve
extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
salt and freshly ground black pepper
for the crostini (optional):
a knob of butter
8–12 small slices of bread
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan, add the shallots, pancetta and celery and sweat gently for a few minutes. Add the peas and stir well, then add the lettuce, potato and stock. Stir well and season with salt and pepper (be careful when adding the salt, as pancetta is salty). Cover with a lid and simmer gently for 15 minutes, or until the peas are tender.
Remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly. Then pour into a blender or food processor and purée until smooth (in batches if necessary). Return the soup to the pan, add the chopped mint and heat through. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary.
Meanwhile, make the crostini. Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the bread slices and fry until golden brown on each side.
Serve the soup drizzled with a little extra virgin olive oil, garnished with a sprig of mint and accompanied by the crostini.
Illustrationzuppa di verdure invernali
mixed root vegetable soup
The combination of root vegetables here makes a very tasty soup that is simple and economical to prepare and a soothing winter warmer. Because of its cooler climate, root vegetables are more common in the north of Italy – especially scorzonera (or black salsify). This is a strange-looking vegetable, long and thin with a black skin, which needs to be washed well and peeled. The interior is white and has a very pleasant, nutty flavour. If you can’t find scorzonera, replace it with salsify or extra quantities of any of the other root vegetables used. Parsnip is not an Italian vegetable, but I have included it in this recipe because it is readily available and I love the taste.
serves 6–8
6 tbsp olive oil
2 garlic cloves, squashed (optional)
1 small onion, roughly chopped
1 leek, roughly chopped
2 celery stalks, roughly chopped
3 scorzonera (or salsify), peeled and roughly chopped
1 large parsnip, roughly chopped
1 small celeriac, roughly chopped
1 large potato, roughly chopped
1 large carrot, roughly chopped
2 litres/3½ pints vegetable stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
croûtons and/or chopped fresh chives, to serve (optional)
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the garlic, if using, and sweat for 1 minute. Add the onion, leek and celery and stir well. Sweat for a few minutes, then add all the root vegetables and cook, stirring well, for a couple of minutes. Pour in the stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover and simmer gently for 30 minutes, until the vegetables are tender.
Remove from the heat, cool slightly and then pour into a blender or food processor and purée until smooth (do this in batches if necessary). Return the soup to the saucepan and heat through. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary. Serve immediately, garnished with some croûtons and/or chopped chives, if desired.
‘Nearly all our soups contained a base of pulses, such as chickpeas or beans as these ingredients could be very cheaply bought from the local grocer’s. I remember sacks full of dried beans lined up against the wall of the shop. But these weren’t good enough for my mother. She didn’t trust their quality because she didn’t know where they came from. Instead, we bought fresh beans from local farmers in the summer and dried them in the sun. They were so delicious, I always thought they tasted as if the sun had kissed them. My mother used to store them in jars ready for winter use. I really looked forward to autumn and winter, just so I could open the jars and taste the beans