Rock Painting Flowers, Cottages, Houses, and Towns: Step-by-Step Instructions, Techniques, and Ideas—20 Projects for Everyone

Part I

Painting Flowers on Rocks

Introduction

When I painted my first rock years ago, I certainly never imagined the many magical possibilities this humble material offered. Even now, whether I’m working on a furry little creature, a vine-covered cottage or a vase of flowers, the thrill of making something beautiful from an ordinary rock never wears off. I love knowing that every piece I paint is a one-of-a-kind creation; while rocks may be common and plentiful, each and every one is unique. A particularly fine rock, or one with an unusual shape, can still get my creative juices flowing. And I never tire of hearing people exclaim, I can’t believe this is just a rock! Flowers and houseplants are among nature’s most vivid and appealing creations, so it’s hardly a surprise that people continue to be drawn to them as subjects for their own artistic expression. Rock painting offers a whole new spin on this age-old art form, capturing the beauty of flowers and plants in three dimensions!

Since many of the projects in this book require simply mastering one basic flower or leaf shape at a time, painting flowers on rocks may be the most accessible rock art of them all. Whatever your skill level, you will quickly discover that compared to a flat surface, it’s far easier (and a lot less intimidating) to paint something that already has shape. Rocks offer an exciting and inexpensive painting surface for beginners as well as for those seasoned artists in search of a new challenge.

Another advantage is that while flat art requires expensive framing to be finished, rock artwork is ready to display as soon as the paint dries. Show it off anywhere you might place a live plant—on a coffee table, fireplace mantel, windowsill or desk. Rock creations require neither light nor care, so they can brighten those corners where living plants would never survive. Painted rocks are guaranteed not to wilt or drop their petals when left untended for months, even years. And unlike plastic or silk flowers and foliage, rock paintings won’t fade or grow dingy. They’re a snap to clean with just the swipe of a damp cloth.

Best of all, painted rock flowers and plants make ideal gifts for housewarmings, birthdays, anniversaries or as personalized thank-yous. The fact that they’re carefree and wiltproof makes them a perfect decoration for a shutin’s bedside. Is there any office that wouldn’t benefit from the presence of an attractive painted plant? And who wouldn’t welcome a handcrafted nosegay of bright blossoms that does double duty as a paperweight. Whatever the occasion, these unique works of art are bound to attract both comment and admiration. Perhaps the highest compliments I received were from the butterflies and bees who persistently buzzed around my rock art blooms while I was photographing finished pieces outdoors. Who says you can’t fool Mother Nature?

I can’t believe it’s just a rock! Like minimurals, painted rock pieces will fool the eye.

GETTING STARTED

One of the most exciting aspects of painting flowers and plants on rocks is that almost any size, shape and kind of rock can be used: the smoothest and roundest of river-tumbled rocks, the most irregular of fieldstones, even those chunky rocks often found at building sites and along country roads.

Once you’ve trained yourself to pay attention, you’ll begin to see wonderful rocks all around you. Flat, shaletype rocks may work loose from eroding layers where roads have been cut into hillsides. Rounded rocks line riverbeds and ocean beaches, while chunky rocks and fieldstones can be found along many roadsides. In a pinch, you can even browse through a rock yard where builders buy their rocks by the ton. Most businesses will be happy to sell you a few rocks for a pittance. On occasion, they’ve even let me take the ones I’ve selected at no charge.

Needless to say, finding good rocks to paint is easy. With all the various colors and types of plants and flowers to choose from, deciding what to paint first may be the most difficult task you face. Every project I try leaves me with new appreciation for the diversity and vivid hues that surround us in the natural world. Pore over those gardening catalogs that start to arrive in the mail in the midst of winter. Analyze the shapes and textures that characterize different plants and shrubs. This will help you to visualize what kinds of rocks would work best for specific subjects. Flowers, such as roses and sunflowers, can be painted as single blooms. Others, such as pansies and petunias, look best in clumps or masses. Tulips and daffodils work well on tall, narrow rocks, while hostas call for large, flat fieldstones. Sprawling caladiums are perfect for angular pieces. Some rock shapes even resemble flower-filled pots, vases and baskets.

Fieldstones, usually fairly flat, offer dramatic angles that often mimic live plant shapes.

Chunky, side-of-the-road rocks may be the most common and easy to find.

Water-tumbled rocks offer smooth contours in a surprising number of shapes and sizes.

The only rock types I avoid are those with surfaces so rough or bumpy that creating details on them is nearly impossible and those so thin that they are subject to breaking.

SUPPLIES

Once you’ve gathered some potential flower rocks, you’ll need a few inexpensive, easy-to-find supplies.

Paints

• I prefer acrylic paints in the little plastic bottles for ease of use and good adherence. They are widely available, inexpensive and come in a wide range of colors. Although you may use any type of acrylic paint you have on hand, including artist-quality or crafter-type paints, there are many projects in this book that you may be tempted to display outdoors. For that reason, I recommend using DecoArt brand Patio Paints, a new acrylic paint that has been specifically formulated to resist weathering (now widely available in arts and crafts stores). However, if you are interested in creating decorative pieces solely for indoor display, regular acrylics are just fine.

Designed to resist weathering, these acrylic paints will help ensure a longer life for your painted creations displayed outdoors.

This simple design was executed on a Colorado rock sent to me by a friend.

Brushes

Most of the projects presented here can be done with a handful of common brushes. If you already have brushes, experiment with them before investing in a whole new set. If you’re not yet a painter, I suggest starting with the following brushes:

• For fine lines and detail, my choice is Loew-Cornell’s 7050 series scriptliner brush, no. 0 or 1. It has a nice long bristle that can carry a lot of paint, and it holds a sharp point despite the challenging texture of this medium.

• A wide, flat brush in size ¾″-inch or 1-inch (19mm or 25mm) is useful for covering large areas quickly.

• Filbert brushes in various sizes (no. 4 is my favorite) will make some petal and leaf painting easier.

• A few angle shader brushes in small and medium sizes, ½″-inch (13mm) and smaller, are indispensable for daisy and rose petals. I especially like the Loew-Cornell 7400 series, which, like the liners, hold their shape despite abuse.

• A few other handy brush types, including medium and small round brushes and perhaps a short detail brush.

Just a few good brushes will handle all of the projects presented here.

Other Supplies

• You can use regular chalk for sketching on your initial designs, but white charcoal pencils make finer lines.

• Fine-point permanent markers (such as Sharpie) are also handy for layouts as well as for signing and dating your finished pieces.

• Wood fillers, such as 3-in-One brand Plastic Wood or Leech Real Wood, may be used to correct an uneven base or to fill in a hole or crack.

• Clear acrylic spray finish will enrich your colors and protect the surface of your rocks.

• Pieces intended for display on scratch-prone surfaces should be fitted with a scrap of felt glued to the bottom to create a buffered base.

A Few Last Words

Keep in mind that it is impossible to ruin a rock. Since this painting surface is usually free, there’s no need to feel intimidated. Plunge right in and experiment, giving yourself permission to play and explore. You don’t need any artistic training to master this medium—just a willingness to try and the ability to follow directions. If you already have your own techniques for painting various flower types, feel free to substitute them for my directions.

My hope is that this book will serve as a starting place. Once you begin to see the possibilities, there is literally no end to the beautiful things you can create.

Basic supplies include an assortment of acrylic craft paints, a white charcoal pencil, marker, wood filler and acrylic spray finish.

How to Paint

Primroses

Compact, colorful primroses make ideal subjects for rock painting. Their overall shape conforms neatly to fit on any rounded rock, and their uncomplicated blossoms are easy to master. Use your primrose creations singly as paperweights or desk art, or cluster them for a striking display. Although real primroses are attractive and popular, they don't thrive in many climates, so these painted versions may be the only way some people will ever enjoy the quaint, old-fashioned charm of primroses.

Look for a plump, rounded or oval river rock that is at least the diameter of your open palm, but no larger than the span of an outstretched hand. Make sure the rock surface is clean and dry before painting.

What You'll Need

• Patio Paint acrylics (or regular acrylic paints in similar colors) in Wrought Iron Black, Sprout Green, Dark Eucalyptus Green, Cloud White, Geranium Red, Sunshine Yellow, Golden Honey and Pinecone Brown

• assorted brushes, including a no. 0 or 1 script liner and small to medium filbert or round brushes

• chalk or white charcoal pencil

This rock is a perfect size and shape for a tight cluster of flowers.

Sample layouts for a larger oval and a smaller round rock.

1Base Coat

A dark background is best for setting off flowers and foliage.

Mix a loaded brush full of Sprout Green paint into a puddle of black to soften the color. Or, you may prefer to use a deep shade of brown instead. Either way, for best results, the base coat should be dark. Paint the entire upper surface of the rock, leaving only a small oval on the underside where you’ll sign and date the piece when finished. Allow this paint to dry before moving on to the next step.

2Layout

It will help to divide your rock’s top surface into quarters; use chalk or a white charcoal pencil to draw perpendicular lines marking the quarters. Individual primrose blossoms consist of five heart-shaped petals connected by a small round center. Using chalk or white charcoal pencil, fit the first blossom, measuring 1½″ (3.8cm) across, into the upper right quadrant of your rock. Sketch two more full flowers in the two adjacent sections in varying positions to form an irregular triangle. For variety and a more realistic look, tuck partially overlapped flowers alongside two of the three main flowers, then sprinkle three or four more blossoms around the upper perimeters, allowing some to brush petals with others, while others stand apart. Set aside the lower third of the rock for foliage.

Work around the outside edges next, sketching in simple, broad, oval leaves with tapered ends. Alter the angle and size of the leaves as you tuck them in below your blossoms. Fill in any large spaces between the blossoms on top with the tips of leaves, or perhaps part of a leaf as shown.

A deep base coat provides a dramatic backdrop.

Large blooms are easier to paint and make for a more attractive result.

Primrose petals step by step.

3Paint the Petals and Leaves

Using a no. 6 or 8 round brush or a no. 4 filbert brush, fill in the flower outlines with Sunshine Yellow. Light colors may require two coats for complete coverage. Leave the center circle in each blossom unpainted. While the petals are drying, fill in the leaf outlines with Sprout Green. Remember to paint in the partial leaves that show between the flowers as well.

4Paint the Flower Centers

Leaving the unpainted spot in the center, paint a star shape in each flower using a small round brush and Golden Honey paint lightened a shade by adding Sunshine Yellow. These stars may be somewhat irregular since they’ll blend in with the yellow petals. The stars should be neater, however, when painted over contrasting petal colors such as red, purple or white.

Switching to a script liner, mix a very small amount of the same gold color with an equal amount of Sprout Green. Dab this sparingly into the center of the flower, allowing traces of dark undercoat to show around the edges for emphasis and added depth.

Pale colors, such as yellow, gold or white, may require two coats for solid coverage. Leave a small, unpainted circle in the center of each bloom.

Fill in all of the leaf outlines with straight Sprout Green.

Use feathery strokes, working out from the center with a contrasting mixture of Golden Honey brightened with Sunshine Yellow.

With a touch of Sprout Green added, the same golden yellow becomes a subtle accent in the center.

5Petal Details

Start with a small amount of Pinecone Brown softened and lightened with Sunshine Yellow. With the tip of a script liner, use this color to define the individual petals along with a few shorter lines to accent the starshaped gold center of each flower. This soft brown can also be used to delineate any place where one flower overlaps another, as well as to create shadows around the overlapped area. Pinecone Brown, with a touch of black to darken it, may be used for added emphasis anywhere petals need even greater definition.

Soft brown lines delineate individual petals, accent the golden star-shaped center and create the illusion of shadows on overlapped petals.

Darker brown will separate overlapping petals, but use it sparingly.

6Leaf Details

Start with Sprout Green, deepened with just enough black to make a green that’s darker than the leaves but brighter than the base coat. Use a medium flat or filbert brush to create shadows along the upper portions of the leaves so the flowers appear to be overhanging and shading them. Extend a darker line down the center of the leaf as well, leaving the outer edges and the tips lighter green.

Next, mix a small amount of Sprout Green with enough Sunshine Yellow to create a brighter green.