The Ultimate Drawing Book: Essential Skills, Techniques and Inspiration for Artists
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About this ebook
Whether you are a budding artist or a professional wishing to develop your skills, This Ultimate Drawing Book is the perfect companion for you.
Learn to draw everything from the texture of a silken cloth to a body in dynamic movement with this easy-to-follow guide. Barrington Barber is a working artist and best-selling author of many practical art titles, providing clear and practical guidance as well as helping you develop your own artistic style.
This drawing book provides step-by-step sequences on a multitude of skills. Learn to:
• Depict the elements in a landscape, such as water, trees and sky
• Portray the texture of different materials
• Convey the features and movement of humans
• Compose an original still life
Providing examples from master artists such as Di Vinci and Rubens, and breaking down their work's successful elements, Barrington Barber will help you bring your own drawings to life.
Barrington Barber
Born 1934, Barrington was educated at Hampton Grammar School and later Twickenham Art Schoo for which he received a National Diploma of Design. He then practised as an illustrator (Saxon Artist) and Graphic Designer, was Art Director at Ogilvie & Mather and S.H. Bensons, and was a lecturer in Graphic Design at Ealing Art School. Other credits include freelance work, designer, illustrator, animator and painter at Augustine Studios. He was awarded a one man exhibition in 2000 at St. Oswald Studios, and also exhibited in Putney in 2003 and Cork Street in 2004. He was Head of Art at St James's Independent Schools. He now paints, draws, writes about art, and enjoys sports, walking, philosophy and meditation.
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The Ultimate Drawing Book - Barrington Barber
Introduction
Arguably the oldest art form in the history of civilization, drawing involves representing the three-dimensional world in two dimensions. The earliest examples of drawings are found in cave paintings, in which early humans made visual records of the world around them, including animals, plants, people and events. By 3000BC, Ancient Egyptians were decorating the walls of their temples and tombs with drawings depicting their daily life, and then the Ancient Greeks began making elaborate drawings on their pottery vases.
Paper as we know it was invented around 1300, and by the 15th century a dramatic shift occurred in European history with the onset of the Renaissance. This cultural movement brought with it a renewed interest in science, art, music and religion, and art became a respected and highly skilled profession. Draftsmen – or ‘masters of drawing’ – such as Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo emerged, and produced masterpieces depicting the human form.
By the 16th century, along with the rise of the academies, sets of strict rules were introduced into the discipline of drawing. Trainee artists learned their trade by copying other artists’ works, and rules governing facial expressions and body positions were strongly enforced. There was a reaction against these rules in the 18th century, and the Romantic artists became much softer and freer in their artworks. Drawing styles continued to diversify, with some artists favouring a rigorous, classical approach and others a more realistic look through working directly from nature.
Today, drawing can follow any style and is often used to convey personal expression and emotion. The materials used to create pictures are wide and varied, as are the sizes and shapes of the paper you can use. But there is one thing that has never changed: the all-important need to observe and practise.
This book is a complete practical guide to the art of drawing, taking the reader from the very first steps – such as choosing a pencil – through to completing a full-scale, finished drawing. The first chapter sets out all the tools and materials you will need. There is information about pencils, conté crayons, graphite, pens, pastels, chalk, charcoal, brushes, stumps, paper, erasers and sharpeners, as well as practical exercises for getting to grips with the basic techniques of drawing: pencil shading, cross-hatching, using pen and ink, shading with chalk, using brush and wash, trying your hand at scraperboard, and creating objects that appear to be three-dimensional.
Having worked through the basics, the book then covers the three most popular types of drawing: still life, landscapes, and figures and faces. Within each chapter, the author provides examples of illustrations showing the key features to focus on, with different viewpoints of the same subjects, pitfalls to avoid and step-by-step exercises to hone your skills.
From a rural Italian vista following the style of Leonardo, a charming portrait of three dancing girls following Rubens, or a few random apples and bottles from the author’s own kitchen, a wide variety of examples and exercises are given, and can be referred to again and again to help you become a better artist. By practising and repeating the exercises within these pages, you’ll soon discover that your drawings start coming to life.
Basics
When beginning your journey as an artist, you first need to think about your tools and materials, and how to use them. This chapter explores the main items every artist needs in their toolkit, including pencils, conté crayons, graphite, pens, pastels, chalk, charcoal, brushes, stumps, paper, erasers and sharpeners. For each item, there are hints and tips about sizes, thicknesses, colour qualities and the best ones to try. Next, there are sets of exercises that will help you practise your drawing techniques, from making simple lines with pen and ink through to three-dimensional shading to produce realistic images. Whether you’re a complete beginner or an experienced artist, you should come back to these exercises again and again to refine your skills.
First Steps
In this first chapter of the book you will find a range of different exercises, beginning with the extremely basic. The aim is to prepare you for drawing actual compositions. Before the composing of any picture can be effective, the artist needs to work hard to ensure that the quality of their drawing has reached the point where they can concentrate on the design of the picture and not be concerned about the details of drawing the objects or people within it. Looking carefully at the subject of your picture before you start to draw is a very good routine to adopt.
Give yourself plenty of practice in making careful drawings from observation. This involves correcting mistakes, leaving out parts that don’t work and redrawing until the object on your paper begins to resemble what you actually see. The process outlined is slow and painstaking. If adopted, it is the foundation for a really impressive drawing procedure which should soon produce an improvement in technique.
Drawing materials
Any medium is valid for drawing still lifes, landscapes, figures and faces. That said, some media are more valid than others in particular circumstances, and in the main their suitability depends on what you are trying to achieve. Try to equip yourself with the best materials you can afford; quality does make a difference. You don’t need to buy all the items listed below, and it is probably wise to experiment gradually as you gain in confidence.
Start with the range of pencils suggested, and when you feel you would like to try something different, then do so. Be aware that each material has its own identity, and you have to become acquainted with its individual facets before you can get the best out of it or discover whether it is the right material for your purposes.
Pencil
The normal type of wooden-cased drawing pencil is, of course, the most versatile instrument at your disposal. You will find the soft black pencils are best. Mostly I use B, 2B, 4B and 6B. Very soft pencils (7B–9B) can be useful sometimes, and harder ones (H) very occasionally. Propelling or clutch pencils are very popular, although if you choose this type you will need to buy a selection of soft, black leads with which to replenish them.
Conté
Similar to compressed charcoal, conté crayon comes in different colours, different forms (stick or encased in wood like a pencil) and in grades from soft to hard. Like charcoal, it smudges easily but is much stronger in its effect and more difficult to remove.
Carbon pencil
This can give a very attractive, slightly unusual result, especially the dark brown or sepia, and the terracotta or sanguine versions. The black version is almost the same in appearance as charcoal, but doesn’t offer the same rubbingout facility. If you are using this type, start off very lightly because you will not easily be able to erase your strokes.
Graphite
Graphite pencils are thicker than ordinary pencils and come in an ordinary wooden casing or as solid graphite sticks with a thin plastic covering. The graphite in the plastic coating is thicker, more solid and lasts longer, but the wooden casing probably feels better. The solid stick is very versatile because of the breadth of the drawing edge, enabling you to draw a line 6 mm (¼ in) thick, or even thicker, and also very fine lines. Graphite also comes in various grades, from hard to very soft and black.
Pens
Push-pens or dip-pens come with a fine pointed nib, either stiff or flexible, depending on what you wish to achieve. Modern finepointed graphic pens are easier to use and less messy but not as versatile, producing a line of unvarying thickness. Try both types.
The ink for dip-pens is black Indian ink or drawing ink; this can be permanent or water-soluble. The latter allows greater subtlety of tone.
Pastel/chalk
If you want to introduce colour into your drawings, either of these can be used. Dark colours give better tonal variation. Avoid bright, light colours. Your choice of paper is essential to a good outcome with these materials. Don’t use a paper that is too smooth, otherwise the deposit of pastel or chalk will not adhere to the paper properly. A tinted paper can be ideal, because it enables you to use light and dark tones to bring an extra dimension to your drawing.
Charcoal
In stick form this medium is very useful for large drawings, because the long edge can be used as well as the point. Charcoal pencils (available in black, grey and white) are not as messy to use as the sticks but are less versatile. If charcoal drawings are to be kept in good condition the charcoal must be fixed with a spray-on fixative to stop it smudging.
Brush
Drawing with a brush will give a greater variety of tonal possibilities to your drawing. A fine tip is not easy to use initially, and you will need to practise if you are to get a good result with it. Use a soluble ink, which will give you a range of attractive tones.
A number 0 or number 2 nylon brush is satisfactory for drawing. For applying washes of tone, a number 6 or number 10 brush in sablette, sable or any other material capable of producing a good point is recommended.
Stump
A stump is a tightly concentrated roll of absorbent paper formed into a fat pencil-like shape. Artists use it to smudge pencil, pastel or charcoal and thus smooth out shading they have applied, and graduate it more finely.
Paper
You will find a good-quality cartridge paper most useful, but choose one that is not too smooth; 160 gsm weight is about right. (If you are unsure, ask in your local art shop, where they will stock all the materials you require.)
Drawing in ink can be done on smoother paper, but even here a textured paper can give a livelier result in the drawing. For drawing with a brush, you will need a paper that will not buckle when wet, such as watercolour paper. Also see under Pastel/chalk.
Eraser
The best all-purpose eraser for the artist is a putty eraser. Kneadable, it can be formed into a point or edge to rub out all forms of pencil. Unlike the conventional eraser it does not leave small deposits on the paper. However, a standard soft eraser is quite useful as well, because you can work over marks with it more vigorously than you can with a putty eraser.
Most artists try to use an eraser as little as possible, and in fact it only really comes into its own when you are drawing for publication, which requires that you get rid of superfluous lines. Normally you can safely ignore erasers in the knowledge that inaccurate lines will be drawn over and thus passed over by the eye which will see and follow the corrected lines.
Sharpener
A craft knife is more flexible than an allpurpose sharpener and will be able to cope with any medium. It goes without saying that you should use such an implement with care and not leave the blade exposed where it may cause harm or damage.
Exercises in technique
The following technical practices should help you to ease your way into drawing in a range of different styles. There are, of course, many more than the ones we show, but these will serve very well as a basis. You will discover all sorts of other methods through your own investigations and adapt them to serve your purpose.
Pencil shading test
When you are using pencil to add tone to your drawings, it soon shows if you are not very expert. The only way you can develop this facility is to practise shading in various ways in order to get used to seeing the different tones achievable. This exercise is quite difficult but good fun and can be repeated many times over a period of weeks, just to help you get your hand and eye in. You will find the control it gives you over the pencil very valuable.
You will need a very dark pencil (4B), a slightly less dark pencil (2B) and a lighter pencil (such as a B). If you wish, you can always use a harder lighter pencil, such as an H or 2H.
Draw out a long line of squares measuring about 1 in (2.5 cm) square. Shade each one, starting with a totally black square. Allow the next square of shading to be slightly lighter, and so on, gradually shading each square as uniformly as possible with a lighter and lighter touch, until you arrive at white paper.
Building up tones by cross-hatching:
1. Vertical strokes first, close together.
2. Oblique strokes from top right to bottom left over the strokes shown in 1.
3. Horizontal strokes over the strokes shown in 1 and 2.
4. Then make oblique strokes from top left to bottom right over the strokes shown in 1–3.
5. Smooth and finely graduated tones can be achieved by working over your marks with a stub.
Pencil and graphite
A pencil is the easiest and most obvious implement with which to start an exploration of technique. Try the following series of simple warming-up exercises, which can be practised every day that you put aside time to draw. This is very useful for improving your technique.
1. A backward and forward motion of the hand, always in an oblique direction, produces an even tone quickly.
2. The same motion vertically.