Best Tent Camping: New Mexico: Your Car-Camping Guide to Scenic Beauty, the Sounds of Nature, and an Escape from Civilization

For Andy, my companion in adventure

Best Tent Camping: New Mexico

Copyright © 2008 and 2014 by Monte R. Parr

Copyright © 2021 by Amaris Feland Ketcham

All rights reserved

Printed in the United States of America

Published by Menasha Ridge Press

Distributed by Publishers Group West

Third edition, first printing

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Ketcham, Amaris Feland, author.

Title: Best tent camping: New Mexico : your car-camping guide to scenic beauty, the sounds of nature, and an escape from civilization / Amaris Feland Ketcham.

Description: 3rd edition. | Birmingham, AL : Menasha Ridge Press, an imprint of AdventureKEEN, [2021]

Identifiers: LCCN 2020042790 (print) | LCCN 2020042791 (ebook) | ISBN 9781634042796 (pbk.) | ISBN 9781634042802 (ebook)

Subjects: LCSH: Camping—New Mexico—Guidebooks. | Camp sites, facilities, etc.—New Mexico—Guidebooks. | New Mexico—Guidebooks.

Classification: LCC GV191.42.N6 K48 2021 (print) | LCC GV191.42.N6 (ebook) | DDC 647.94209789—dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020042790

LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020042791

Project editor: Holly Cross

Cover and book design: Jonathan Norberg

Maps: Steve Jones and Amaris Feland Ketcham

Photos: Amaris Feland Ketcham, except as noted

Copy editor: Ritchey Halphen

Proofreader: Emily Beaumont

Indexer: Rich Carlson

MENASHA RIDGE PRESS

An imprint of AdventureKEEN

2204 First Ave. S., Ste. 102

Birmingham, AL 35233

800-443-7227, fax 205-326-1012

Visit menasharidge.com for a complete listing of our books and for ordering information. Contact us at our website, at facebook.com/menasharidge, or at twitter.com/menasharidge with questions or comments. To find out more about who we are and what we’re doing, visit blog.menasharidge.com.

Cover photo: On the road to Rio Chama Campground (see page 70); © Amaris Feland Ketcham

Inset: Paliza Family Campground (see page 64); © Amaris Feland Ketcham

For the latest coronavirus news and updates pertaining to the campgrounds in this book, please check the Contact listings in the campground profiles. For general information about the coronavirus in New Mexico, see cv.nmhealth.org.

CONTENTS

New Mexico Campground Locator Map

Map Legend

Acknowledgments

Preface

Best Campgrounds

Introduction

NORTHERN NEW MEXICO

1Bandelier National Monument: Juniper Family Campground

2Black Canyon Campground

3Blackjack Campground

4Canjilon Lakes Campgrounds

5Chaco Culture National Historical Park: Gallo Campground

6Clear Creek Campground

7Cochiti Lake and Tetilla Peak Campgrounds

8Columbine Campground

9Coyote Creek State Park Campground

10 Elephant Rock Campground

11 Fawn Lakes Campground

12 Fenton Lake State Park Campground

13 Holy Ghost Campground

14 Hopewell Lake Campground

15 Iron Gate Campground

16 Jemez Falls Campground

17 Paliza Family Campground

18 Panchuela Campground

19 Rio Chama Campground

20 Rio de las Vacas Campground

21 Río Grande del Norte National Monument: Orilla Verde Campgrounds

22 Río Grande del Norte National Monument: Wild Rivers Campgrounds

23 San Antonio Campground

24 Santa Barbara Campground

25 Sugarite Canyon State Park: Lake Alice and Soda Pocket Campgrounds

26 Valle Vidal: McCrystal and Cimarron Campgrounds

27 Villanueva State Park Campground

SOUTHEASTERN NEW MEXICO

28 Aguirre Spring Recreation Area Campground

29 Caballo Lake State Park Campground

30 Deerhead Campground

31 Fourth of July Campground

32 Oak Grove Campground

33 Percha Dam State Park Campground

34 Pines Campground

35 Red Canyon Campground

36 Sleepy Grass Campground

37 Sumner Lake State Park Campgrounds

38 Valley of Fires Recreation Area Campground

39 White Sands National Park Campground

SOUTHWESTERN NEW MEXICO

40 Apache Creek Campground

41 City of Rocks State Park Campground

42 Datil Well Campground

43 Dipping Vat Campground at Snow Lake

44 El Malpais National Conservation Area: Joe Skeen Campground

45 El Morro National Monument Campground

46 Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument Campgrounds

47 Juniper Campground

48 Piñon Campground

49 Pueblo Park Campground

50 Water Canyon Campground

Appendix A: Camping Equipment Checklist

Appendix B: Sources of Information

About the Author

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

My deepest gratitude to Andy Carey, who had never camped in a campground before I invited him to City of Rocks State Park. He quickly adapted from archaeology dig sites and public-land primitive camping, and he was outstanding company for many of the explorations written about here. Thank you, too, to the many others who joined me for short journeys all across the state—including my mother, who fell in love with the Zuni sandstone at El Morro. I am grateful for my little snowshoe cat, Yuki, who always reminded me to take frequent writing breaks to play.

Thank you to the many befuddled campground hosts who answered my questions and let me walk around photographing various sites. Many thanks to the rangers and administrators of our public lands, who uphold their mission to introduce so many to the joys and wonders of nature. Everyone at Menasha Ridge Press and AdventureKEEN has been great to work with. I’d also like to thank the friendly folks in the town of Reserve, New Mexico, who stopped to help when I had both a flat tire and a busted spare.

I would like to acknowledge that these campgrounds and public lands sit on the traditional homelands of the original peoples of New Mexico—Pueblo, Navajo, and Apache—who have deep connections to the land and have remained stewards throughout the generations.

Unfortunately, I cannot say that no animals were harmed in the making of this book. Just outside of Canjilon Lakes, a buck in velvet bounded out of the sagebrush into the side of my car and died quickly by the side of the road. I dreamed about his spirit many nights since, and so I would like to acknowledge him and wish him peace.

—Amaris Feland Ketcham

PREFACE

The first time I camped in New Mexico, I pitched a borrowed tent near Chama between a small, man-made lake and the Colorado border. I spent my days wandering through ferns and aspen; my nights, stargazing while coyotes sang. At the lake, a boy proudly showed me the large rainbow trout he’d just caught, and I hiked on, admiring wildflowers while monsoon clouds gathered in the afternoon sky. The forest held many surprises: I chanced upon a rafter of turkeys one day and an old hunting blind the next. Toasting marshmallows over the campfire to make s’mores, I decided to add a roasted green chile and found an instant favorite, decadent dessert. I was a teenager, new to camping, but Chama had me hooked.

I couldn’t wait until my next adventure sleeping under the Milky Way. New Mexico has so many places to explore—badlands, canyons, mesas, mountains, prairies, sand dunes, salt flats, valleys, and volcanic escarpments—you could plan a lifetime of weekend trips. In addition to situating yourself within a landscape of geologic masterpieces, camping here also places you in touch with history and the many cultures that live throughout the state.

I’ve stumbled upon fossils, ancient pottery sherds, and secret, hidden petroglyphs. Once, camping in the Gila, it was so cold that I shivered most of the night instead of sleeping. In the morning, I watched as my breath rose up in a little cloud, condensed, froze, and snowed back down on my face—I had created my own miniature weather system in my tent. This was such a beautiful moment, and I’d never seen or even imagined anything like it.

Another time, I was hiking out from my campsite at White Sands National Park when a storm started to blow in. The sky turned light gray, and wind lifted the sand. The sky grew indistinguishable from the dunes in these whiteout conditions; the world was white. But our long morning shadows persisted to show us the direction of the sun, and luckily the guideposts also remained visible. Again, I’d never seen anything like it. That’s part of what draws me out time and time again: the New Mexican wilderness is full of secrets, surprises, and experiences like nothing you’ve ever seen. Wanting to share these kinds of experiences with others has fueled much of the research and writing of this book.

Perhaps that’s why I’ve had such a difficult time answering the one question everyone asks after learning that I’m researching campgrounds: What’s your favorite campground? I have many favorite campgrounds for different kinds of camping experiences—some to admire the stars, to sleep under tall pines, to investigate archaeology sites, or wander trails. People camp for many reasons; others might have their own campgrounds for preferred activities and settings. If you like trout fishing in a rushing river with your tent hidden behind low growth, a bustling campground where kids can make friends at the playground, or pitching a tent among eroded boulders of volcanic tuff that look like a setting from The Flintstones, you’ll find a great campground in this guide. You’ll also find lakeside campgrounds, secluded mountain campgrounds, and campgrounds close to hot springs and climbing routes. I’ve visited scores of campgrounds in New Mexico and tried to include a variety of the best in this guide.

Unfortunately, not all of the campgrounds I’d wanted to include could be accessed, as a couple were undergoing extensive renovations. It will be exciting to see the improvements that the U.S. Forest Service (USFS) and New Mexico State Parks make to these locations. After these renovations, other campgrounds are scheduled for construction, fees will likely change, and sometimes water wells will be out for a season—check with the appropriate agency before you go.

For the third edition, I’ve added some sites and thus had to cut some too. A notable addition is White Sands National Park, one of our newest national parks. While it’s more primitive than the other campgrounds written about here, White Sands is an unparalleled camping experience and one every New Mexico tent camper should experience at least once; you can learn more about it in these pages.

Some sites I cut reluctantly. While they may have offered great historical or geological significance and the areas seemed well worth visiting, the campgrounds may have been better suited to RVs or appeared to have returned to nature. Others were in areas already dense with campgrounds I was profiling, so I decided to add some a little farther afield. Visiting and reviewing campgrounds has taken me all across the state, into the national forests and grasslands, national and state parks, and monuments in the beautiful public lands of New Mexico.

For ease of reference, this guidebook divides the state into three major geographic areas. In Northern New Mexico, you’ll find campgrounds in the Carson and Santa Fe National Forests, the tail of the Rocky Mountains, spectacular alpine lakes, and ruins of impressive settlements. North of I-40, these campgrounds are sure to impress with their cool summer nights, challenging hikes, and great fishing. From the Manzano Mountains to the home of the real-life Smokey Bear, the Southeastern New Mexico campgrounds are a mix of mountains and cacti-covered desert. East of I-25, you can set up your base camp to hike portions of the historic Cloud Climbing Railroad; photograph brilliant autumn colors; or sled in soft, white sand. Camping in Southwestern New Mexico might take you into New Mexico’s wildest wilderness in the Gila National Forest, fields of lava in El Malpais, or through the plains near the Very Large Array. West of I-25, you can follow the trail of Spanish, appreciate petroglyphs, or hike the incredible Catwalk above Whitewater Canyon, then grab some freshly baked pie or soak in hot springs.

While I’ve worked hard to collect the most up-to-date information on all of the campgrounds presented in this book, changes are inevitable. It’s a good idea to call ahead or check the internet for the most updated information on the campground you plan to visit. (Be aware, for example, that fee increases are likely to occur in the next few years at USFS campgrounds.) I would appreciate knowing about any noteworthy changes you may come across; you can contact me at amarisketcham.com. In the meantime, I hope this book helps you find a new favorite campground, stay hooked on the outdoors, or have an experience you never could have imagined.

—A. F. K.

BEST CAMPGROUNDS

BEST FOR BIRD-WATCHING

Black Canyon Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 16)

Coyote Creek State Park Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 40)

Villanueva State Park Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 95)

Percha Dam State Park Campground Southeastern New Mexico (p. 114)

BEST FOR CANOEING AND KAYAKING

Cochiti Lake and Tetilla Peak Campgrounds Northern New Mexico (p. 33)

Rio Chama Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 70)

Río Grande del Norte National Monument: Orilla Verde Campgrounds Northern New Mexico (p. 76)

Caballo Lake State Park Campground Southeastern New Mexico (p. 102)

BEST FOR NEARBY CLIMBING

Blackjack Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 19)

Río Grande del Norte National Monument: Orilla Verde Campgrounds Northern New Mexico (p. 76)

Sugarite Canyon State Park: Lake Alice and Soda Pocket Campgrounds Northern New Mexico (p. 88)

Aguirre Spring Recreation Area Campground Southeastern New Mexico (p. 99)

Datil Well Campground Southwestern New Mexico (p. 143)

BEST FOR CULTURE AND HISTORY

Bandelier National Monument: Juniper Family Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 13)

Chaco Culture National Historical Park: Gallo Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 26)

El Morro National Monument Campground Southwestern New Mexico (p. 152)

Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument Campgrounds Southwestern New Mexico (p. 155)

BEST FOR DARK-SKY EXPERIENCES

Chaco Culture National Historical Park: Gallo Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 26)

City of Rocks State Park Campground Southwestern New Mexico (p. 140)

Dipping Vat Campground at Snow Lake Southwestern New Mexico (p. 146)

BEST FOR DESERT CAMPING

Valle Vidal: McCrystal and Cimarron Campgrounds Northern New Mexico (p. 91)

White Sands National Park Campground Southeastern New Mexico (p. 133)

Water Canyon Campground Southwestern New Mexico (p. 167)

BEST FOR FISHING

Canjilon Lakes Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 22)

Fawn Lakes Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 46)

Hopewell Lake Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 55)

Rio de las Vacas Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 73)

Santa Barbara Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 85)

The half-moon shape of Pueblo Bonito at Chaco Culture National Historical Park lines up perfectly with the cardinal directions (see page 26).

BEST FOR GEOLOGIC FEATURES

Valley of Fires Recreation Area Campground Southeastern New Mexico (p. 130)

White Sands National Park Campground Southeastern New Mexico (p. 133)

City of Rocks State Park Campground Southwestern New Mexico (p. 140)

El Malpais National Conservation Area: Joe Skeen Campground Southwestern New Mexico (p. 149)

BEST FOR HIKING

Columbine Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 37)

Holy Ghost Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 52)

Panchuela Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 67)

Fourth of July Campground Southeastern New Mexico (p. 108)

Pueblo Park Campground Southwestern New Mexico (p. 164)

BEST FOR FAMILIES WITH KIDS

Black Canyon Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 16)

Coyote Creek State Park Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 40)

Fawn Lakes Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 46)

Fenton Lake State Park Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 49)

BEST FOR SCENIC VISTAS AND PHOTOGRAPHY

Río Grande del Norte National Monument: Wild Rivers Campgrounds Northern New Mexico (p. 79)

Aguirre Spring Recreation Area Campground Southeastern New Mexico (p. 99)

Water Canyon Campground Southwestern New Mexico (p. 167)

BEST FOR SOAKING IN HOT SPRINGS

San Antonio Campground Northern New Mexico (p. 82)

Caballo Lake State Park Campground Southeastern New Mexico (p. 102)

City of Rocks State Park Campground Southwestern New Mexico (p. 140)

Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument Campgrounds Southwestern New Mexico (p. 155)

A tree struggling to survive in Water Canyon takes on a sculptural appearance (see page 167).

INTRODUCTION

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDEBOOK

Welcome to Best Tent Camping: New Mexico. Whether you’re new to camping or you’ve been sleeping in your portable shelter for decades of outdoor adventures, please review the following information. It explains how this book is organized and how you can make the best use of it.

Some text on the following pages applies to all books in the Best Tent Camping series. Where this isn’t the case, such as descriptions of weather and wildlife, the author has provided information specific to the area covered in this particular book.

THE RATINGS AND RATINGS CATEGORIES

The author personally experienced dozens of campgrounds and campsites to select the top 50 locations in New Mexico. Within that universe of 50 sites, the author then ranked each one in the six categories described below. A tough grader, the author awarded few five-star ratings, but each campground in this guidebook is superlative in its own way—for example, a site that rates only one star in a particular category may merit five stars in another category. In every case, the star-rating system is a handy tool to help you pinpoint the campground that will fit your personal requirements.

BEAUTY

Beauty, of course, is in the eye of the beholder, but panoramic views or proximity to a lake or river earn especially high marks. A campground that blends in well with the environment scores well, as do areas with remarkable wildlife or geology. Well-kept vegetation and nicely laid-out sites also up the ratings.

PRIVACY

The number of sites in a campground, the amount of screening between them, and physical distance from one another are decisive factors for the privacy ratings. Other considerations include the presence of nearby trails or day-use areas, and proximity to a town or city that would invite regular day-use traffic and perhaps compromise privacy.

SPACIOUSNESS

The size of the tent spot, its proximity to other tent spots, and whether or not it is defined or bordered from activity areas are the key considerations. The highest ratings go to sites that allow the tent camper to comfortably spread out without overlapping neighboring sites or picnic, cooking, or parking areas.

QUIET

Criteria for this rating include several touchstones: the author’s experience at the site, the nearness of