Perfumes and Their Preparation

George William Askinson

Perfumes and Their Preparation

Published by Good Press, 2022

[email protected]

EAN 4057664157089

Table of Contents

PREFACE.

CHAPTER I. THE HISTORY OF PERFUMERY.

CHAPTER II. ABOUT AROMATIC SUBSTANCES IN GENERAL.

The Division of Aromatic Substances According to their Origin.

CHAPTER III. ODORS FROM THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM.

The Chemical Constitution of Vegetable Aromatic Substances.

CHAPTER IV. THE AROMATIC VEGETABLE SUBSTANCES EMPLOYED IN PERFUMERY.

Allspice. Latin —Pimenta; French —Piment; German —Piment; Nelkenpfeffer.

Anise. Latin —Pimpinella Anisum; French —Anis; German —Anis.

Balm. Latin —Melissa officinalis; French —Melisse; German —Melissenkraut.

Bay (Sweet Bay) . Latin —Laurus nobilis; French —Laurier; German —Lorbeerfrüchte.

Bay (West Indian) . Latin —Myrcia acris; French —(Huile de) Bay; German —Bay (-Oel) .

Benzoin. Latin —Benzoinum; French —Benjoin; German —Benzoëharz.

Bergamot. Latin —Citrus Bergamia; French —Bergamote; German —Bergamottefrüchte.

Bitter Almonds. Latin —Amygdala amara; French —Amandes amères; German —Bittere Mandeln.

Cajuput Leaves. Latin —Folia Cajuputi.

Camphor Wood. Latin —Lignum Camphoræ; French —Bois de camphre; German —Campherholz.

Caraway Seed. Latin —Semen Carvi; French —Carvi; German —Kümmelsamen.

Cascarilla Bark. Latin —Cortex Cascarillæ; French —Cascarille; German —Cascarillarinde.

Cassie. Latin —Acacia farnesiana; French —Cassie; German —Acacie.

Cedar Wood. Latin —Lignum Cedri; French —Bois de cèdre; German —Cedernholz.

Cinnamon. Latin —Cinnamomum; French —Canelle; German —Zimmtrinde.

Citron. Latin —Fructus Citri; French —Citron; German —Citronenfrüchte.

Citron Flowers. Latin —Flores Citri; French —Fleurs de citron; German —Citronenblüthen.

Cherrylaurel Leaves. Latin —Folia Laurocerasi; French —Laurier-cérise; German —Kirschlorbeerblätter.

Citronella. Latin —Andropogon Nardus; French —Citronelle; German —Citronella.

Clove. Latin —Caryophylli; French —Clous de girofle; German —Nelkengewürz.

Cucumber. Latin —Cucumis sativus; French —Concombre; German —Gurke.

Culilaban Bark. Latin —Cortex Culilavan; French —Ecorce culilaban; German —Kulilabanrinde.

Dill. Latin —Semen Anethi; French —Aneth; German —Dillsamen.

Elder Flowers. Latin —Flores Sambuci; French —Sureau; German —Hollunderblüthen.

Fennel (Seed and Herb) . Latin —Fœniculum; French —Fenouil; German —Fenchel.

Frangipanni (see Plumeria) .

Geranium . Latin —Pelargonium roseum; French —Géranium; German —Geranium.

Hedyosmum Flowers.

Heliotrope. Latin —Heliotropium peruvianum; French —Héliotrope; German —Heliotropenblüthen.

Honeysuckle. Latin —Flores Loniceræ; French —Chèvre-feuille; German —- Geisblattblüthen.

Hyssop. Latin —Hyssopus officinalis; French —Hyssope; German —Ysopkraut.

Jasmine. Latin —Jasminum odoratissimum; French —Jasmin; German —Jasminblüthen.

Lavender. Latin —Lavandula vera; French —Lavande; German —Lavendel.

Lemon. Latin —Citrus Limonum; French —Limon; German —Limonenfrüchte.

Lemon Grass. Latin —Andropogon citrates; French —Schoenanthe; German —Citronengrass.

Lilac. Latin —Flores Syringæ; French —Lilas; German —Fliederblüthen.

Lily. Latin —Lilium candidum; French —Lis; German —Lilienblüthen.

Mace. Latin —Macis; French —Macis; German —Muscatblüthe.

Magnolia. Latin —Magnolia grandiflora; French —Magnolia; German —Magnoliablüthen.

Marjoram. Latin —Herba majoranæ; French —Marjolaine; German —Majorankraut.

Meadow Sweet. Latin —Spiræa ulmaria; French —Reine des prés; German —Spierstaude.

Mint. Latin —Mentha; French —Menthe; German —Minze.

Musk-Seed. Latin —Semen Abelmoschi; French —Grains d’ambrette; German —Bisamkörner.

Myrrh. Latin —Myrrha; French —Myrrhe; German —Myrrhe.

Myrtle Leaves. Latin —Myrtus communis; French —Myrte; German —Myrtenblätter.

Narcissus. Latin —Narcissus poeticus; French —Narcisse; German —Narcissenblüthen.

Nutmeg. Latin —Myristica; French —Muscade; German —Muscatnüsse.

Olibanum. Latin —Olibanum; French —Encens; German —Weihrauch.

Opopanax. Latin —Resina Opopanax.

Orange Flowers. Latin —Flores Aurantii; French —Fleurs d’oranges; German —Orangenblüthen.

Orange Peel. Latin —Cortex Aurantii; French —Ecorce d’oranges; German —Orangenschalen.

Origanum.

Orris Root. Latin —Radix Iridis florentinæ; French —Iris; German —Veilchenwurzel.

Palm Oil. Latin —Oleum Palmæ; French —Huile de Palme; German —Palmöl.

Patchouly. Latin —Pogostemon Patchouly; French —Patchouly; German —Patschulikraut.

Peru Balsam. Latin —Balsamum peruvianum; French —Beaume du Pérou; German —Perubalsam.

Pine-apple. Latin —Bromelia Ananas; French —Ananas; German —Ananas.

Pink. Latin —Dianthus Caryophyllus; French —Œillet; German —Nelkenblüthen.

Plumeria. Latin —Plumeria; French —Plumeria; German —Plumeriablüthen.

Reseda (Mignonette) . Latin —Reseda odorata; French —Mignonette; German —Reseda.

Rhodium. Latin —Lignum Rhodii; French —Bois de rose; German —Rosenholz.

Rose. Latin —Rosa; French —Rose; German —Rosenblüthen.

Rosemary. Latin —Rosmarinus officinalis; French —Romarin; German —Rosmarin.

Rue. Latin —Ruta graveolens; French —Rue; German —Raute.

Sage. Latin —Salvia officinalis; French —Sauge; German —Salbei.

Santal Wood. Latin —Santalum album; French —Santal; German —Santalholz.

Sassafras. Latin —Lignum Sassafras; French —Sassafras; German —Sassafrasholz.

Spikenard. Latin —Nardostachys Jatamansi; French —Spic-nard; German —Nardenkraut.

Star-Anise. Latin —Illicium; Semen Anisi stellati; French —Badiane; German —Sternanis.

Storax. Latin —Styrax; French —Styrax; German —Storax.

Sumbul Root. Latin —Radix Sumbul; French —Soumboul; German —Moschuswurzel.

Sweet Almonds. Latin —Amygdala dulcis; French —Amandes douces; German —Süsse Mandeln.

Sweet-Flag Root. Latin —Radix Calami; French —Racine de glaïeule; German —Calmuswurzel.

Sweet-Pea. Latin —Lathyrus tuberosus; French —Pois de senteur; German —Platterbsenblüthen.

Syringa. Latin —Philadelphus coronarius; French —Seringat, Lilac; German —Pfeifenstrauchblüthen.

Thyme. Latin —Thymus Serpyllum; French —Thym; German —Thymian.

Tolu Balsam. Latin —Balsamum tolutanum; French —Beaume de Tolu; German —Tolubalsam.

Tonka Beans. Latin —Fabæ Tonkæ; French —Fèves de Tonka; German —Tonkabohnen, Tonkasamen.

Tuberose. Latin —Polianthus tuberosa; French —Tubérose; German —Tuberose.

Vanilla. Latin —Vanilla aromatica, Vanilla planifolia; French —Vanille; German —Vanille.

Verbena. Latin —Verbena triphylla, Aloysia citriodora; French —Verveine; German —Verbenakraut.

Vetiver. Latin —Andropogon muricatus; French —Vétyver; German —Vetiverwurzel.

Violet. Latin —Viola odorata; French —Violette; German —Veilchenblüthen.

Volkameria.

Wallflower. Latin —Cheiranthus Cheiri; French —Giroflé; German —Levkojenblüthen, Goldlack.

Wintergreen. Latin —Gaultheria procumbens; French —Gaulthérie; German —Wintergrünblätter.

Ylang-Ylang.

CHAPTER V. THE ANIMAL SUBSTANCES USED IN PERFUMERY.

Ambergris. Latin —Ambra grisea; French —Ambregris; German —Ambra.

Castor. Latin —Castoreum; French —Castoreum; German —Castoreum.

Hyraceum.

Musk. Latin —Moschus; French —Musc; German —Moschus.

Civet. Latin —Civetta; French —Civette; German —Zibeth.

CHAPTER VI. THE CHEMICAL PRODUCTS USED IN PERFUMERY.

A. Chemicals used for the Extraction of Aromatic Substances.

B. Chemical Products used for the Preparation of Perfumes.

C. The Colors used in Perfumery.

CHAPTER VII. THE EXTRACTION OF ODORS.

Pressure.

Distillation.

Maceration (Infusion) .

Absorption or Enfleurage.

Extraction.

The Yield of Essential Oils.

CHAPTER VIII. THE SPECIAL CHARACTERISTICS OF AROMATIC SUBSTANCES.

Oil of Cassie.

Oil of Anise

Oil of Bergamot

Oil of Bitter Almond (Oleum Amygdale Amaræ) ,

Oil of Cajeput (Oleum Cajuputi)

Oil of Calamus (Oleum Calami) .

Oil of Chamomile (Oleum Chamomillæ) .

Camphor (Camphora) .

Oil of Cascarilla

Oil of Cassia (Oleum Cassiæ)

Oil of Cedar.

Oil of Citron.

Oil of Lemon (Oleum Limonis, Oleum Citri)

Oil of Citronella.

Oil of Lemon-Grass.

Oil of Coriander (Oleum Coriandri)

Oil of Lilac

Oil of Geranium.

Oil of Heliotrope.

Oil of Elder (Oleum Sambuci) .

Oil of Jasmine ,

Oil of Cherry-Laurel

Oil of Culilaban (Oleum Culilavani)

Oil of Caraway (Oleum Cari)

Oil of Lavender (Oleum Lavandulæ) .

Oil of Wallflower

Oil of Lily

Oil of Lemon (Oleum Limonis) ,

Oil of Sweet Bay (Laurel) (Oleum Lauri)

Oil of Magnolia ,

Oil of Marjoram (Oleum Majoranæ) .

Oil of Melissa.

Oils of Mint.

Oils of Mace and Nutmeg (Oleum Macidis and Oleum Myristicæ) .

Oil of Myrtle.

Oil of Narcissus.

Oil of Pink ,

Oil of Clove (Oleum Caryophylli) .

Oil of Orange Flowers (Oleum Naphæ, Oleum Neroli) ,

Oil of Orange ,

Oil of Patchouly.

Oil of Syringa.

Oil of Allspice ,

Oil of Sweet Pea

Oil of Rue (Oleum Rutæ) .

Oil of Reseda (Mignonette) .

Oil of Rose (Oleum Rosæ) ,

Oil of Rhodium.

Oil of Rosemary (Oleum Rosmarini) .

Oil of Sage (Oleum Salviæ) ,

Oil of Santal (Oleum Santali) .

Oil of Sassafras (Oleum Sassafras)

Oil of Meadow-sweet (Oleum Spirææ) .

Oil of Star-Anise (Oleum Anisi Stellati; Oleum Illicii)

Oils of Thyme (Oleum Thymi) .

Oil of Vanilla ,

Oil of Violet

Oil of Verbena

Oil of Vetiver (Oleum Ivaranchusæ) ,

Oil of Wintergreen (Oleum Gaultheriæ) .

Oil of Ylang-Ylang (Oleum Unonæ odoratissimæ)

Oil of Hyssop (Oleum Hyssopi)

Oils of Cinnamon (Oleum Cinnamomi) .

Oil of Turpentine (Oleum Terebinthinæ) ,

CHAPTER IX. THE ADULTERATIONS OF ESSENTIAL OILS AND THEIR RECOGNITION.

A. Adulteration of Essential Oils with Other Essential Oils.

B. Adulteration of Essential Oils with Fixed Oils.

C. Adulteration with Alcohol.

D. Adulteration with Paraffin, Spermaceti, or Wax.

CHAPTER X. THE ESSENCES OR EXTRACTS EMPLOYED IN PERFUMERY.

CHAPTER XI. DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE MOST IMPORTANT ESSENCES AND EXTRACTS.

Extract of Cassie (Extrait de Cassie) .

Tincture of Ambergris (Extrait d’Ambregris) .

Tincture of Benzoin (Extrait de Benjoin) .

Essence of Bergamot (Extrait de Bergamotte) .

Tincture of Castor (Extrait de Castoreum) .

Tincture of Musk Seed (Extrait d’Ambrette) .

Essence of Bitter Almond (Extrait d’Amande) .

Essence of Calamus (Extrait de Glaïeul) .

Essence of Cedar (Extrait de Cèdre) .

Tincture of Cedar (Extrait de Bois de Cèdre) .

Essence of Citronella.

Essence of Lemon Grass (Extrait de Schoenanthe) .

Extract of Lilac (Extrait de Lilas) .

Essence of Geranium.

Extract of Cucumber (Extrait de Concombres) .

Extract of Heliotrope (Extrait de Héliotrope) .

Extract of Jasmine (Extrait de Jasmin) .

Essence of Lavender (Extrait de Lavande) .

Extract of Wallflower (Extrait de Giroflé) .

Extract of Lily (Extrait de Lys) .

Essence of Lemon (Extrait de Limon) .

Extract of Magnolia (Extrait de Magnolia) .

Essence of Peppermint (Extrait de Menthe) .

Tincture of Musk (Extrait de Musc) .

Extract of Myrtle (Extrait de Myrte) .

Extract of Narcissus.

Essence of Clove (Extrait de Clous de Girofles) .

Extract of Pink (Extrait d’Œillet) .

Extract of Orange Flower or Neroli (Extrait de Fleurs d’Oranges, Extrait de Néroli) .

Essence of Patchouly (Extrait de Patchouli) .

Tincture of Balsam of Peru (Extrait de Pérou) .

Essence of Allspice (Extrait de Piment) .

Extract of Sweet Pea (Extrait de Pois de senteur) .

Extract of Reseda (Extrait de Mignonette) .

Essence or Extract of Rose (Extraits de Rose) .

Extract of Santal (Extrait de Santal) .

Tincture of Storax (Essence de Styrax) .

Tincture of Tolu (Extrait de Baume de Tolou) .

Tincture of Tonka (Extrait de Tonka) .

Extract of Tuberose (Extrait de Tuberose) .

Tincture of Vanilla (Extrait de Vanille) .

Extract of Violet (Extrait de Violette) .

Tincture of Orris Root (Extrait d’Iris) .

Extract of Verbena (Extrait de Verveine) .

Extract of Verbena A.

Extract of Verbena B.

Extract of Volcameria (Extrait de Volcameria) .

Essence of Vetiver (Extrait de Vétiver) .

Extract of Wintergreen (Extrait de Gaulthérie) .

Tincture of Civet (Extrait de Civette) .

Tincture of Cinnamon (Extrait de Canelle) .

CHAPTER XII. THE DIVISION OF PERFUMERY.

True Perfumes.

Preparations for the Care of the Skin.

Preparations for the Care of the Hair.

Cosmetics.

CHAPTER XIII. THE MANUFACTURE OF HANDKERCHIEF PERFUMES, BOUQUETS, OR AROMATIC WATERS.

CHAPTER XIV. FORMULAS FOR HANDKERCHIEF PERFUMES.

Bouquet de l’Alhambra.

Extrait d’Ambre, I.

Extrait d’Ambre, II.

Bouquet de l’Amour.

Baisers du Printemps (Spring Kisses) .

Eau de Berlin.

Buckingham Flowers.

Bouquet d’Andorre.

Bouquet du Bosphore.

Bouquet des Chasseurs.

Bouquet de la Cour.

Bouquet de Chypre.

Bouquet des Délices.

Bouquet de Fleurs (Nosegay) .

Convallaria (Lily of the Valley, Fleurs de Mai) .

Couronne de Fleurs (Garland of Flowers) .

Court Bouquet.

Esterhazy Bouquets.

A. Bouquet d’Esterhazy (French formula) .

B. Bouquet Esterhazy (German formula) .

Cèdre du Libanon (Cedar) .

Fiori d’Italia.

Lilac (Extrait de Lilas) .

Essence des Bouquets, A (Ess. Bouquet) .

Ess. Bouquet, B.

Ess. Bouquet, C.

Florida.

Bouquet de Flore.

Heliotrope, A (Extrait de Héliotrope) .

Heliotrope, B.

New-Mown Hay.

Royal Horse-Guard’s Bouquet.

Bouquet d’Irlande.

Hovenia.

Huntsman’s Nosegay.

Bouquet du Japon.

Eau Japonaise.

Jockey Club.

Jonquille (Extrait de Jonquille) .

Kiss me Quick.

Bouquet Cosmopolite.

Cologne Water (Eau de Cologne) .

Lavender Perfumes.

Eau de Leipsic.

Wallflower (Extrait de Giroflé) .

Lily (Extrait de Lys) .

Eau de Lisbonne.

Magnolia (Extrait de Magnolia) .

Lily of the Valley.

Lily of the Valley Extract.

Bouquet a la Maréchale.

A la Mode.

A. Eau de Mille Fleurs.

B. Eau de Mille Fleurs.

C. Eau de Mille Fleurs a Palmarose.

Fleurs de Montpellier.

Fleurs des Champs.

Huile de Mille Fleurs.

Musk (Extrait de Musc) .

Mousseline.

Myrtle (Extrait de Myrthe) .

Narcissus (Extrait de Narcisse) .

Navy’s Nosegay.

New-Mown Hay.

Pink (Extrait d’Œillet) .

Essence of Sweet Pea.

Polyanthus.

Eau du Portugal.

Queen Victoria’s Perfume.

Patchouly (Extrait de Patchouli) .

Essence of Reseda.

Rondeletia Odoratissima.

Royal Nosegay.

Rose Odors.

Spring Nosegay.

Suave.

Heliotrope Bouquet (Fleurs Solsticiales) .

Bouquet de Stamboul.

Syringa.

Tulipe Odoriférante.

Hungarian Water (Eau Hongroise) .

Bouquet de Virginie.

Violet (Violettes) .

Verbena A (Extrait de Verveine) .

Verbena B.

Extrait de Verveine C.

Violettes des Montagnes.

Volcameria.

Forest Breeze (Pine-Needle Odor.)

West End.

Wintergreen.

Flowers of the Isle of Wight.

Yacht Club.

Ylang-Ylang.

Appendix.

CHAPTER XV. AMMONIACAL AND ACID PERFUMES.

A. Ammoniacal Perfumes.

B. Acid Perfumes.

FORMULAS FOR TOILET VINEGARS.

CHAPTER XVI. DRY-PERFUMES.

CHAPTER XVII. FORMULAS FOR DRY PERFUMES (SACHETS) .

Ceylon Sachet Powder.

Cyprian Sachet Powder.

Field Flower Sachet Powder.

Frangipanni Sachet Powder.

Heliotrope Sachet Powder.

Indian Sachet Powder.

Lavender Sachet Powder.

Marshal Sachet Powder.

Mille Fleurs Sachet Powder.

Muslin Sachet Powder.

Olla Podrida.

Patchouly Powder.

Persian Sachet Powder.

Portugal Powder.

Potpourri.

Rose Sachet Powder, A.

Rose Sachet Powder, B.

Santal Powder ,

Violet Sachet Powder.

Violet Sachet Powder.

Verbena Sachet Powder.

Vetiver Sachet Powder.

CHAPTER XVIII. THE PERFUMES USED FOR FUMIGATION.

Fumigating Pastils. French —Pastilles fumigatoires; German —Räucherkerzen.

Fumigating Papers and Wicks (Bruges Ribbons) . French —Papier à fumigations. Ruban de Bruges; German —Räucherpapiere. Räucherbänder.

C. Fumigating Ribbons

Fumigating Waters and Vinegars (Eaux Encensoires, Vinaigres Encensoires) .

Fumigating Powders (Poudres Encensoires) .

APPENDIX.

CHAPTER XIX. HYGIENIC AND COSMETIC PERFUMERY.

CHAPTER XX. PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE SKIN.

Glycerin.

Emulsions.

CHAPTER XXI. FORMULAS FOR THE PREPARATION OF EMULSIONS, MEALS, PASTES, VEGETABLE MILK, AND COLD-CREAMS.

A. Emulsions.

Olivine.

B. Meals and Pastes.

C. Vegetable Milk.

D. Cold-Creams and Lip Salves.

APPENDIX.

CHAPTER XXII. THE PREPARATIONS USED FOR THE CARE OF THE HAIR (POMADES AND HAIR OILS) .

CHAPTER XXIII. FORMULAS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF POMADES AND HAIR OILS.

A. Pomades.

Beef-Marrow Pomade (Pomade à Moëlle de Bœuf) .

B. Hair Oils.

CHAPTER XXIV. PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE MOUTH.

A. Tooth Pastes.

B. Tooth Powders.

C. Tooth Tinctures (Lotions) and Mouth Washes (Essences Dentifrices) .

CHAPTER XXV. COSMETIC PERFUMERY.

CHAPTER XXVI. SKIN COSMETICS AND FACE LOTIONS.

A. White Skin Cosmetics.

B. Red Skin Cosmetics (Rouges) .

C. Face Lotions.

D. Toilet Powders.

Kaloderm.

CHAPTER XXVII. HAIR COSMETICS.

A. Hair Washes.

B. Hair Tonics.

CHAPTER XXVIII. HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES.

A. Simple Hair Dyes.

B. Double Hair Dyes.

Melanogène.

Crinochrom.

C. Depilatories.

CHAPTER XXIX. WAX POMADES, BANDOLINES, AND BRILLIANTINES.

A. Wax Pomades.

B. Beard Wax.

C. Bandolines.

D. Brillantines.

CHAPTER XXX. THE COLORS USED IN PERFUMERY.

Yellow Colors.

Red Colors.

Green Colors.

Blue Colors.

Violet

Brown

Black

CHAPTER XXXI. THE UTENSILS USED IN THE TOILET.

INDEX.

PREFACE.

Table of Contents

The great progress which the art of perfumery has made during recent times is due to several causes, the chief one of which is fully realized only by the manufacturer on a large scale, who stands, as it were, behind the scenes and has access to facts and information concerning the materials he uses, which are not so easily accessible to the dilettante in perfumery, or remain altogether unknown to the latter. This important factor is the advance in our knowledge of the physical and chemical properties of the several substances used in perfumery, whereby we can better discriminate between the genuine and the spurious, the choicest and the inferior, thus insuring, at the very start, a satisfactory result, instead of being compelled to resort to wasteful experimentation and empiricism. A better knowledge has also been gained of the sources of the commercial varieties of many of the crude products, and a better insight into the conditions affecting their qualities or properties. A more exhaustive study of the proximate principles of many of the essential oils has thrown an entirely new light upon this heretofore obscure class of bodies, placing into our hands new products of definite chemical composition, unvarying in physical properties, and many of them valuable additions to the perfumer’s stock of ingredients. Synthetic chemistry has also added to the list of materials required by the perfumer, and is surely going to add many more to it hereafter. Though some of these, like the new artificial musk, are not yet in a condition to enter into serious competition with the natural products, yet it is merely a question of time when the latter need no longer be depended upon. The increasing demands for the staple articles used by the perfumer have also caused a large increase in the cultivation of many important plants in various parts of the world, and have led to the establishment of new plantations, in some cases to such an extent that the commercial relations have been entirely revolutionized, new territories producing larger crops and a finer product than the old home of the plant. The exploration of hitherto unknown or imperfectly known countries has also largely added to the perfumer’s art, and is likely to continue to do this for a long time to come, since it is now well known that vast districts, more particularly in tropical Africa, are inhabited by a flora abounding in new odoriferous plants.

In spite of all this expansion of the perfumer’s stock of trade, however, which results in the periodical introduction of new compounds, there is a very large number of popular odorous mixtures which remain in steady demand, having taken such firm root among civilized nations that they are not likely to be displaced. It is more particularly with a view to afford information regarding these latter that a work like the present is desirable and necessary. A treatise on perfumery is expected to place into the hands of the purchaser reasonably reliable processes for preparing the most generally approved simple or compound perfumes, as well as accurate information concerning the origin and properties of the various ingredients, together with practical hints regarding the determination of their genuineness and purity.

It is a frequent complaint of those who make preparations after formulas published in works like the present, that they do not succeed in obtaining fully satisfactory products. Another complaint of purchasers of such works is this: that they fail to find formulas yielding preparations identical in every respect with certain celebrated perfumes which have made the reputation and fortune of certain firms. Regarding the first complaint, we would say that the failure lies generally with the complainant himself, through carelessness in the selection of the materials or disregard of the given directions. Concerning the second complaint, a moment’s reflection must convince any one that formulas which are the result of the study and experimentation of years, and the products of which are the main stock of trade of certain firms, are carefully guarded, and not likely to be communicated to others. Moreover, in many cases even a publication of the component parts would not be of much avail, for the manufacturer on the large scale has facilities for blending and seasoning his products which the maker on a small scale does not possess, and it is this part of the art particularly upon which the quality of the products depends.

In preparing the present treatise for the American public many changes were found necessary in the original text, in order to make the information given more correct or definite, and so bring the work more abreast of the present time. In addition to various improvements and additions made in the working formulas comprising the second portion of the work, the description of the natural products used as ingredients, upon the quality and selection of which the success of the perfumer mostly depends, has been carefully revised, and so far as the objects of this work required, completed by Dr. Charles Rice, Associate Editor of American Druggist, etc., in consultation with several experts in the art of perfumery.

Perfumes and their Preparation.

CHAPTER I.

THE HISTORY OF PERFUMERY.

Table of Contents

The gratification of his senses is peculiar to man, and it is to this trait that we are indebted for all the arts. The activities which aimed at the gratification of the eye and ear developed into the creative arts and music, and in like manner human endeavor directed toward the stimulation of the sense of smell has in our time assumed the proportions both of an art and a science; for it was nothing but the advancement of chemistry that made it possible to fix all the pleasant odors offered by nature and to create new perfumes by the artistic combination of these scents. The preparation of perfumes is a very ancient art that is met with among all peoples possessed of any degree of civilization. It is particularly the ancient nations of the Orient which had in truth become masters in the manufacture of numerous perfumes.

The first perfume was the fragrant flower; it has continued to be so to the present day: the sprig of dried lavender flowers which we lay in the clothes-press was probably used for the same purpose by the contemporaries of Aristotle. In the Orient, which we may look upon as the cradle of the art of perfumery, the idea suggested itself early to substitute for the delicious fragrance of the flowers some substances of lasting odor; various sweet-scented resins supplied the material for this purpose. The use of these aromatic resins must have been very extensive: the ancient Egyptians alone consumed extraordinary quantities for embalming their dead. How highly the Oriental peoples in general prized perfumes can be learned from the Bible: the Jews (like the Catholics to the present day) employed an aromatic gum-resin (olibanum, frankincense) in their religious ceremonies; in the Song of Solomon mention is made of Indian perfumes, for instance, cinnamon, spikenard, myrrh, and aloes.

Altogether, incense played a prominent part in the religious ceremonies of the ancient Western Asiatic nations—among many peoples under a theocratic government it was even believed to be sinful to use incense for other than religious purposes. The Bible teaches us that Ezekiel and Isaiah protested against it, and that Moses even prescribed the preparation of certain kinds of incense for use in the tabernacle.

Among the most highly civilized people of antiquity, the Greeks, a large number of fragrant substances, as well as oils perfumed with them—that is to say, perfumes in the same sense as we still understand the term—was known; this will be no surprise to those familiar with the culture of this remarkable people. The odor of violets was the favorite among the Greeks; besides this they used the scent of the different mints, thyme, marjoram, and other aromatic plants. This was carried so far as to become a matter of fashion for the Greek fop to use only certain odors in the form of ointments for the hair, others for the neck, etc. In order to prevent this luxury which was carried to such an excess, Solon even promulgated a law that interdicted the sale of fragrant oils to Athenian men (the law did not apply to the women).

The Romans, who were the pupils of the Greeks in all the arts, carried the luxury with perfumes perhaps even farther. In ancient Rome there was a very numerous guild of perfumers called unguentarii; they are said to have had a street to themselves in Capua. A Patrician Roman anointed himself three times daily with precious, sweet-scented oils which he personally took along into his bath in golden vessels of exquisite workmanship, so-called nartheciæ. At the funeral of his wife Poppæa, Nero is said to have used as incense more odorous substances than could be produced in one year in Arabia, at that time the only reputed source of perfumes. This luxury went so far that during the games in the open amphitheatres the whole air was filled with sweet odors ascending from numerous censers arranged in a circle. The apartments of well-to-do Romans always contained large and very valuable urns filled with dried blossoms, to keep the air permanently perfumed.

Roman extravagance with perfumes was carried to such an excess that under the consulate of Licinius Crassus a law was passed which restricted the use of perfumery, there being good reason to fear that there would not be enough for the ceremonies in the temples.

With the migration of the almost savage Huns and Goths, the refinement of morals ceased, progress in civilization was retarded for centuries, and at the same time the use of perfumes disappeared entirely in Europe; but it was otherwise in the Orient. As an instance we may mention the prophecy of Mohammed, who promised in the Koran to the faithful in paradise the possession of black-eyed houries whose bodies were composed of the purest musk.

The Arabs, the ancient masters of chemistry, were also the first founders of the art of perfumery. Thus the Arabian physician Avicenna, in the tenth century, taught the art of preparing