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    Dastarkhwan-e-Awadh: The Cuisine of Awadh
    Dastarkhwan-e-Awadh: The Cuisine of Awadh
    Dastarkhwan-e-Awadh: The Cuisine of Awadh
    Ebook237 pages2 hours

    Dastarkhwan-e-Awadh: The Cuisine of Awadh

    By R.K Saxena and Sangeeta Bhatnagar

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    Timeless recipes from the stately kitchens of the Awadh regionDastarkhwan (noun): A meticulously laid out ceremonial spread of food. The nawabs of Awadh were renowned for their extravagance and their patronage of the best craftsmen. Of all the arts that flourished then, cooking was considered one of the finest, and its practitioners were among the most sought after. Famous for its nafaasat (refinement) and nazaakat (delicateness), Awadhi cuisine blends spices over a slow fire to achieve seasonal harmony with nature. Retelling anecdotes and secrets long held by the descendants of the nawabs, talukdars, bawarchis and rakabdars of the region, Sangeeta Bhatnagar and R.K. Saxena recreate the culture and cuisine of a culturally and imaginatively rich era.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherHarperCollins
    Release dateMay 1, 2015
    ISBN9789351773849
    Dastarkhwan-e-Awadh: The Cuisine of Awadh
    Author

    R.K Saxena

    Dr Sangeeta Bhatnagar received her education in Lucknow, the seat of Awadh culture. She has a PhD in economics from Lucknow University, where she has also taught. She discovered Awadhi cuisine in Barabanki. A complete dearth of books on the cuisine and the desire to document and preserve the culinary heritage of the region inspired Sangeeta to write Dastarkhwan-e-Awadh. Sangeeta has also hosted cooking shows on television and been on the editorial team of Food magazine. She currently lives in Agra. R.K. Saxena has more than four decades of experience in the hospitality industry. A graduate of Bombay University, he also studied hotel management at Dadar Catering College. He has lived in Lucknow, Mumbai, Goa and Washington DC, managing catering outlets and hotels. He was head of the catering department at the Institute of Hotel Management (IHM) in Bangalore, and director of IHM Lucknow and Mumbai. He is currently an independent hospitality consultant in Lucknow.

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    Book preview

    Dastarkhwan-e-Awadh - R.K Saxena

    Dedicated to the people of Lucknow and Barabanki

    Contents

    Foreword

    Preface

    Physical Map of the Awadh Region

    Historical Perspective

    Culinary Terms, Techniques and Equipment

    MUTTON

    Kundan Kaliya

    Raan

    Rizala

    Shahi Mutton Korma

    Shami Kabab

    Haleem

    Tali Arvi ka Salan

    Nehari Khaas

    Nargisi Kofta

    Shab Deg

    Patili Kabab

    Pasanda Kabab

    Purdahnashin Kabab

    Kakori Kabab

    POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS

    Murg Mussallam

    Murg Jahanara

    Gulnaar Kababs

    Murg-do-Pyaza

    Murg Korma

    Lagan ka Teetar

    FISH

    Zamin Doz Machhli

    Machhli ke Shami Kabab

    Kanta Gali Machhli

    Khatti Machhli

    Dum Machhli

    VEGETARIAN FARE

    Karele ka Dulma

    Tamatar ka Dulma

    Dum Bhindi

    Gobhi Mussallam

    Paneer Pasanda

    Subz Aloo

    Nimona

    Lazeez Lauki

    Kathal ke Kabab

    PULSES

    Sultani Dal

    Dal Masoor Mussallam

    Maash ki Dal Khasgi

    RICE

    Yakhni Pulao

    Kofta Pulao

    Mutanjan

    Lucknawi Biryani

    Zarda

    Sheesh Ranga

    Ananas ka Muzaffar

    BREADS

    Roomali Roti

    Sheermal

    Taftan

    Dal Kachori

    Bakarkhani

    Warqui Paratha

    Kulcha

    SWEET DISHES

    Balai ke Tukre

    Sewain ka Muzaffar

    Halwa-e-Badaam

    Jauzi Halwa Sohan

    Sheer Kadhi

    Sheer Branj

    Shakramba

    CURD DISHES

    Makhane ka Raita

    Baigan ka Raita

    Boorani

    Kheere ka Raita

    Phalon ka Raita

    A Glossary of Spices and Ingredients

    Acknowledgements

    Foreword

    And the earth he appointed for

    his creatures

    Wherein are fruits and sheathed

    Palm trees,

    husked grain scented herb.

    Which of these favours of your Lord

    that ye deny?

    —Quran 55:10-3

    Food occupies the highest position in most cultures and religions. The most unique example of spiritualism is manifested in a physical form … the evidence of the bounties of God and human motivation for existence.

    ‘Pahile Taam Badahu Kalaam’ ‘First food then communication’ is the evidence of its supreme position. Considerable spirituality revolves around food, which is blessed and elevated to the position of ‘Nemat’—the special creations of God for His most special creation, the human being. This opens up a different dimension to the subject of food: what, how much, which meal is blessed, when, where and how—and how much and most importantly when to negate food—fasting, dieting, etc.

    From the finer layers of all this is born the culture of food, the evolution of the ‘Zaiqa’, the taste … and it pervades the entire milieu, from festivities to celebrations, from intimate ‘nashishts’ to public ‘mahfils. The aroma rises from smoke-filled kitchens to elaborate ‘dastarkhwans’ where words and images are as cleverly woven, as condiments and herbs … where the same meat tells a different story through its varied ‘Zaiqa’. Yet, food is an intimate feeling of loving care and warmth of human relationships. It is the most regular and the most consistent form of reinforcing tenderness.

    Food in Awadh had evolved to become a total experience of an occasion—fragrant, visually appealing and almost magical … and truly such is the scope of this book—extremely detailed, well researched and evocative, capturing the ambience of a bygone era perfectly. It brings to life a number of recipes and techniques that had gone into oblivion, and with it a new interest in this rich form of cuisine. It opens an enormous future for the refined international palate, the art of cooking and above all the promotion of Lucknow—because there is no substitute for enjoying this fare other than in its own milieu. It ranges from simple to the rich, exotic to the earthy, and for the gourmet it opens up a vast canvas to create and balance a wide range of menus to suit every possible taste to leave an everlasting impression.

    Sunset along the river Gomti

    Preface

    The very mention of Lucknow, which was the seat of Awadh culture, brings to mind the tradition of ‘pehle aap’ (after you), the language dripping with politeness and the lifestyle of the nawabs. But what appeals the most is the cuisine of Awadh, which, in some ways. was a culmination of all that was best in art, culture and science.

    The erstwhile province of Awadh was famous for its high standards of gastronomic etiquette. This culture is still found preserved in the sanctum sanctorum of the erstwhile landed aristocracy of Lucknow and a few adjoining districts that formed part of Awadh; and of course the famous ‘bawarchis’ (cooks) who, with tremendous discipline, bordering on religious fervour, still follow the traditional style of cooking, handed down to them by their ancestors. Credit goes to them for not compromising on the quality of the food prepared by them despite pressures – constraints of time and money.

    The authors aim to introduce the characteristic tastes and flavours of this region to readers with the hope that the authentic cuisine from Awadh will be recreated in today’s kitchens to be savoured at the table.

    In this age of frozen and fast foods, it is reassuring to find that in the kitchens of some of the erstwhile nawabs and taluqdars, life is still in tune with the natural rhythms of the seasons—and food has not basically changed for over generations. With an emphasis on traditional food that truly relies on naturally fresh ingredients, we return to an age before ‘convenience’ food, ironically complicated our eating habits.

    Blessed with a rich and varied cultural heritage, India is home to a wide variety of foods of different regions reflecting geographical and cultural differences, varieties in local produce, traditions, temperament and tempo. Yet, behind this remarkable diversity there is one thing that unites them: hospitality and love. Concern for the quality of food and the manner in which one partakes of it is important. It is usual in this region for three generations to sit together around the ‘Dastarkhwan’ (dining spread) to enjoy their meals.

    Often one reads an irresistible recipe only to learn that it is not possible to reproduce it outside the narrow confines of its origin. The unavailability of ingredients is a common problem while discussing original recipes. However, we are in a particularly privileged position, because barring a few condiments the rest are easily available in any part of the world.

    'The Cook': A sketch by an Englishwoman, 1838, from the book, The King of Oudh, his Brother and Attendants

    Another serious difficulty, which has in fact resulted in the virtual extinction of some of the finest dishes, is the abundant use of ghee or clarified butter and spices, besides the long cooking time required. In order to suit the palate of the present generation, the recipes have been meticulously tried and tested several times with a toning down of the rich ingredients wherever possible. Both the cooking time and the method have also been modified and adapted to the modern kitchen without compromising on the final taste and the flavour of the dishes. Though we still hold that sahaj pakey so meetha hoi (that which is cooked by the slow method is tastier), we have adapted most of the recipes to suit today’s kitchens.

    Nawab Chowdhry Habib and his begum

    To gather information and pictures for this book we have traversed the region of Awadh. We met the ‘purdahnashin’ (veiled) begums, talked with bawarchis and rakabdars (master cooks). We met housewives and discussed and exchanged recipes, shared many a meal with families and new friends. We talked to restaurateurs and chefs and people in the villages and small towns. We dined in the famed mango orchards of Awadh. Through it all, from the feasts and festivals, through the variety of exquisite food savoured, one fact clearly emerges: Awadh cuisine is very much a living force, always playing an integral role in the life of the people of this region. We sincerely hope that this attempt at the demystification of the culture and the cuisine of Awadh will be able to rekindle the romance of Shaam-e-Awadh.

    Sangeeta Bhatnagar

    R.K. Saxena

    Historical Perspective

    lndia is that unique land where the past merges with the present, Gods walk among men, and truth coexists with myth. Nowhere is this more true than in the erstwhile kingdom of Awadh, now represented by the area in and around Lucknow, the capital of the state of Uttar Pradesh. It forms the centre of that vast plain which has been, for centuries, the peculiar site of Indian civilization. It stretches from the Ganga to the Himalayas, and is about equidistant from Delhi on one side and the extreme east of Bihar on the other.

    This land of unsurpassed fertility has always been a major centre of culture and learning. It was, to begin with, a part of the Kaushal kingdom ruled by the Suryavanshis of Ayodhya; thereafter it was coveted and conquered by many a ruler. But it found its zenith during the reign of the nawabs of Awadh, the first of them being Saadat Khan Bahadur. But it was Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah, the benevolent ruler and great builder who transformed Lucknow from a village to a town. He was the person behind the construction of the Imambara, Rumi Darwaza and the building which later came to be called the Residency. He was also a great connoisseur of cuisine and several cooks arrived under his patronage. Wajid Ali Shah, the last of the nawabs of Awadh, was also a great lover of the arts. The Qaiserbagh was constructed during his reign. It is said that his overindulgence in the epicurean delights cost him the throne.

    Legend has it that the magnificence of the court of the nawabs of Awadh overshadowed the famed throne of Delhi, and it was the former that attracted adventurers and artists, courtesans and cooks, for ‘where wealth is, there will seekers after fortune flock’.

    The annexation of Awadh by the British brought to an end the rule of the gracious nawabs. But long years of alien rule could not wipe away

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