Rajmahal

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The Rajmahal

THE RAJMAHAL ROSE IN 1910, NEW, CREAMY WHITE AND CRYSTALLINE ON a prime site on Chowringhee. The clear green of the Maidan opposite and the Palladian mansions juxtaposing it served as its setting.

Chowringhee metamorphoses from residential Tollygunge and Alipur at the southern end and breaks into noisy thoroughfares of commerce further north. Across the maidan and out of sight runs the Hooghly, passing first under the partly visible Howrah bridge, and then under the newer bridge, Vivekananda Setu. Today it seems astonishing that the northern end of town, the commercial sector and river front, with what was then a pontoon bridge, was the fashionable hub of early British Calcutta, the lawns of the sahibs’ mansions sloping down to the water’s edge. But Lal Dighi, the Dalhousie Square tank, was the chief source of water and it was natural that the small British population chose to live near it. The quarter must have been exclusive to the sahibs, with the exception of the scores of local retainers and tradesmen needed to make life tolerable for them as indicated by contemporary accounts and pictures. It would have been quiet, with spaced out buildings and sparse traffic, though there would have been frequent flurries when crowds of bhistees carried dripping waterskins from the tank to the mansion of a sahib, or palanquin bearers resting under the shade of a tree rose up with cries and commotion to take up their tasks. As for the maidan, it had been a marshy jungle infested with crocodile, snake, and tiger. When the British swanned about uneasily thus, it is said Warren Hastings went out on elephant back to hunt tiger in the vicinity of the Rajmahal. But things changed as the city expanded and only a few residential buildings, including the Government House, continue to exist in the old quarter of the city. The prime locations have, for the major part of Calcutta’s history, encroached on the marshes and jungles, shifting further south, over and beyond the Rajmahal. The area around the Dalhousie Square tank has been left to crowd in upon itself and foster the great commercial houses and exchanges, fanning out toward the congested old black quarter, while the river front, apart from the burning ground at Neemtolla, has turned into a series of ghats for light craft and, further up in Khiddirpur, for major shipping, most of it ineligible for genteel residential purposes.

The clamor of that part of town was partly buffered by distance from the Rajmahal and reduced to a quiet roar on the maidan where Victoria Memorial and the gothic spires of St Paul’s Cathedral stood serenely amidst trees, watercourses, and green. But the residents had to contend with the noisy Chowringhee traffic, and they often retreated inside to hear themselves think.

The Rajmahal, which was upset at losing its pristine quality after its sale and transformation into a block of apartments, had a history replete with the tales of ghosts. It had four floors connected by a vast, soaring stairway, and the heavy wrought iron balustrades trailed down with festoons of dusty sunlight and pigeon droppings. The iron beams which held up the roof formed convenient roosts for the pigeons and there was a constant bustle, sometimes music, raised voices, a dog’s bark, mingling with the pigeon coos and hinting at the life inside the apartments. The lobby, at the foot of the stairs, had a graciously proportioned black and white marble flagged floor, barely visible and seductive from the top floor. Within two curved embrasures, naked marble women tilted urns toward basins once awash with water, and a green light filtered through the fan-palms ranged behind them. The stairway landings between each floor were brightened by strips of light filtering through jalousies, glass panes, and pillars holding up high windows. In all this great space, the stairs took up only the central area. On either distant side were interior verandas, looking out at each other between narrow pillars with the stairs sweeping by in between.

The servants’ quarters were tucked away on top of the roof, cordoned off from the skylights by a high wall. So they were well out of sight, and their access to the apartments was by spiraling iron stairways forming two delicate, lacy traceries at the back of the mansion and leading to the kitchens on each floor.

The Rajmahal got its name from the first owner, Raja Sheetanath. When Sardar Bahadur Ohri bought the property, razed the old building, and built this four-floor beauty, the name stuck, and the new Rajmahal inherited the soul of its predecessor.

Sardar Bahadur Ohri was given his title by the British for his dynamic building activities and his lack of disloyalty to the crown. At the end of his long life, he realized the Rajmahal would soon become an anachronism as a single unit, so he arranged for its sale to a Bengali Muslim family, the Malliks. The Ohris retained the ground floor, and the new landlord rented out the four intermediate apartments while he and his family chose to occupy the top floor, in spite of the loss of grace after the change of the stairs from marble to wood, and the proximity of the smelly pigeons.

The original Rajmahal, a Palladian garden house, had fallen to rack and ruin when Raja Sheetanath had retired to the dung beetles and rambling grounds of his estates in Purulia to administer them first hand and introduce reform to his peasant-tenants. He believed the British would never leave unless the people of India, each and every one of them, were made aware through education of their birthright and a revived Hindu pride.

How can I possibly accept that we Indians are part of a degraded and barbarous society? Am I, as an Indian, to assume I am incapable of appreciating the finer elements of civilization? It’s time we woke up! he would exhort. When the Ohris bought over the site, therefore, they found the furniture, paintings, and artifacts decaying in the rundown old Rajmahal, for Raja Sheetanath found these too glaringly foreign. "I vow to wholeheartedly embrace swadeshi, our own heritage! he declaimed. And all such alien objects I abjure!"

When the new Rajmahal was built by the Sardar Bahadur, he was already sixty, successful and rich after fulfilling his many contracts in the developing cities of the country. His wife, Inderjeet Kaur, was deeply upset at having to move so far away from Punjab.

Will he ever ask my opinion? she complained to her confidante and maid Heera. How does he think I can live in the midst of all those Bengalis? He could have improved our haveli right here in Saidabad instead, God knows how much it is needed! Or built something in Amritsar.

The Sardar Bahadur dismissed her by saying, The sight of the house will make you change your mind at once! And Calcutta is the capital of India, after all! A year later, when a royal proclamation said the capital was to move to Delhi, he kept away from his wife for some days. His chagrin showed only to his sons.

It was a terrible error of judgment on my part! How easily I could have built a house in Delhi! he said.

"It’s all right, Bhapaji, was the complacent reply. There is nothing to stop you from building another house in Delhi or any other place of your choice! But, they may have added, the Rajmahal is so perfect and Calcutta is so much fun, that we, in any case, are staying put!"

The Sardar Bahadur couldn’t tear himself away either. He didn’t lose time, though, in bagging some of the prime contracts for the shift of the capital to Delhi.

Raja Sheetanath’s family heirlooms graced the new Ohri household. Tables with gilt legs, stuffed sofas and chairs, hunting scenes in over-varnished oil paintings, marble busts, gilt-framed mirrors and velvet drapery cascading from elaborate pelmets, Persian carpets, old armor, tiered cabinets full of Staffordshire china, venetian glass, Chinese vases, candelabras . . . from the stuccoed ceilings of the reception and banquet rooms hung chandeliers and fans.

The first floor, the favorite area of the Rajmahal itself, was the Sardar Bahadur’s bachelor’s retreat which included a conservatory, a Guru Granth Sahib room and a splendid mirrored bedroom. The main bedroom on the second floor, which Sardar Bahadur Ohri occupied with his faithful Inderjeet Kaur, was elevated and separated by a floor from this retreat. He shared the conservatory floor with his visitors and current mistress, of whom he had a succession of three throughout his years in the Rajmahal, apart from short-term fancy girls. They came up to this floor by the outer veranda stairway, and it was tacit they would never use the main lobby. This was so the two uppermost floors, the third and fourth, could be kept secluded for the women and members of the intimate family whose importance receded as they ascended. In this, the Sardar Bahadur was carrying on the ancient tradition of courtesans being allowed access to the master’s chambers, while the honored wife was confined to the inner sanctum. It also echoed a tradition among some of the earlier British whose local keeps, while the wives stayed back in Britain, lived in private apartments in the very same building to which they retired coyly at dawn. The conservatory was partly south facing, looking out on to the maidan. It had plants of every exotic variety and its windows were lined with flounced silk curtains, which turned yellow and brittle in the sun and came off in flakes. Cane chairs and tables lay scattered on the floor, while a bar was cunningly camouflaged behind a bottle palm. The rest of the rooms were less elaborately, though expensively, furnished. After the sale, when the ground floor was all that remained with the Ohris, it was carefully altered and refurnished with the best of these treasures before the rest were scattered to other Ohri establishments countrywide.

Though the Sardar Bahadur identified happily with Bengal and Bengalis, he had never thought of shaving his beard or cutting his hair. And it was natural his origins called as he lay dying.

I must see the Golden Temple one last time, he told his doting family. See that it is arranged for me to move to Amritsar.

"What do you mean, Bhapaji? said an anxious seventy-year-old son. What do you mean by ‘last time’?"

I refer to my impending death, said the Sardar Bahadur impatiently. Please do not make a fuss! he preempted, before anyone could protest at the mention of the unmentionable.

It was arranged he would spend his last days on the veranda of a cousin’s home skirting the temple where he could gaze beatifically at the divine Harmandir Sahib afloat on its pool of nectar. His progeny, who kept the ownership of the ground floor apartment, left it in a watchman’s care, while they took the air of Chandigarh, Delhi, Jaipur, and, when they could wangle a visa, Lahore. Here, drifting on the fringes of the polo set and driving their vintage Bentleys and Rolls Royces, they preferred to boast about their old palace in Calcutta rather than live in it.

The dejected Rajmahal’s spirits had revived only partly with the arrival of the first of the fifth generation, Surjeet Shona, who was born just before its desertion by the Ohris. Her birth entitled the Sardar Bahadur to a fifth rung on the tiny golden ladder, prepared to give him an easier passage into the next life. Her parents left Calcutta, taking her with them after the Sardar Bahadur’s demise and it was not until Surjeet Shona lost her husband and came back twenty-six years later, that an Ohri again lodged permanently in the Rajmahal. So she was destined to inherit at least some of the original artifacts of the mansion, as well as the genes of both Raja Sheetanath and the Sardur Bahadur, for her father, an Ohri, had done the unthinkable by marrying a Bengali woman, a direct descendant of the Raja. It was a mixed heritage of which Surjeet Shona was both proud and well aware.

The Sardar Bahadur’s wife was just as upset when her husband decided to shift to Amritsar and sell the Rajmahal at the tail end of their lives as she had been decades earlier when she had been uprooted and shifted in exactly the opposite direction.

Why does he have to move again at this age, when it’s too late for any good to come from it? she said despondently to her maid Heera.

"It is of no use to argue, Bi’ji, said Heera, perfectly familiar with the ways of her employers. Think how auspicious it will be to move near Harmindar Sahib!"

Well, at least he is keeping the lowest floor.

An elaborate process had to be set in motion. Not only did the ground floor have to be converted into a self-sufficient unit, but the Guru Granth Sahib room had to be moved down too. And the great man intended to see to this reverential task himself. To him, as to all believing Sikhs, the Guru Granth Sahib was more than just the holy book. It was the Guru incarnate. At the sukhasan every night, the Sardar Bahadur himself wrapped the book in its sheet so the Guru could have a comfortable sleep.

The stairway on the ground floor veranda, no longer needed, was broken down to make space for the new Granth Sahib room. No expense was spared and the ceiling and walls were decorated with gold embellished scenes from the lives of the gurus. Rugs were acquired directly from Persia through the Sardar Bahadur’s friend, Isfahani, a tea merchant, and laid in the room. All was set for the installation.

The Sardar Bahadur had earlier shifted his wife down with him to the first floor once his near-static period had begun, to make going out easier. And Inderjeet Kaur had obediently moved her belongings down to the mirrored bedroom which she had managed to sneak into occasionally for a good pry in earlier times, and which had always upset her by its existence.

Only when he is past it, she thought bitterly, am I to be allowed official ingress!

She saw to it that the shameful mirror over their bed, which so clearly reproduced their gross, spreading bodies when they lay down, was screened and put out of action. But this didn’t stop her from reflecting on fantasies of the old goings-on, based, after all, on her actual witnessing on one tragic occasion, a mind sport set in a time warp.

After moving into the Rajmahal in 1910, the Sardar Bahadur had arranged to receive his mistresses at home. His sex life was for him a must, and the best he could do was to keep up the charade for the sake of his wife’s dignity. It was obvious he was more concerned with enjoying what he considered his right than protecting his wife’s feelings. But in those days, wives also knew they had to keep their mouths shut and be aware of their good fortune in netting such fine, manly husbands. Besides, in a joint family household, infidelities by the womenfolk weren’t uncommon either. But poor Inderjeet Kaur, though a handsome specimen before perpetual childbirth ruined her looks, had never strayed. The tragedy of her life started, therefore, when she allowed her youth to pass her by in a state of meaningless honor before she first woke up to her husband’s philandering ways. The Sardar Bahadur played his role by telling her he needed to spend the night on the first floor whenever business became protracted. He also cautioned her not to enter this floor since she observed purdah, always screened from outsiders, and would be sullied by contact with undesirables. She accepted this almost unquestioningly, though she had her first prickle of suspicion. But this was forgotten in her happiness at having the Sardar Bahadur on the premises, promising surely, a larger share of his time. How was she to know he would straight away acquire a courtesan who danced for his visitors in the conservatory? Inderjeet Kaur heard the music and the jingling of the dancer’s bells and decided momentously, when silence had descended one night, to go downstairs. She hadn’t seen her husband for three days, no one, including sons and daughters-in-law, servants and other members of the household would divulge anything. And their sly looks and ambivalent attitudes were galling.

All the visitors must have left, she fooled herself. I have not set eyes on him for three whole days. Ei Heera, she called to her faithful ally, have all the guests left him?

"Why Bi’ji? You are not thinking of going down, are you?" said a frightened Heera.

Inderjeet Kaur, though a dutiful wife, was far from mousy. She imperiously brushed Heera aside and prepared herself for the descent. The sardarni had made other preparations too, coloring her long thick hair carefully with henna, reddening her fingers and toes with the same herb, and tenting her body with a particularly gorgeous shalwar-kameez of a shade of pink bordering on magenta, with silver work scattered over it.

She emerged onto the landing of her floor and, reluctant to direct her eyes downstairs, looked first up at the silent and dark landing of the top floor. Then fearfully down toward the ghostly marble ladies dimly spotlighted and blessing the house with the sound of tinkling water. Almost like that dancer’s bells, she thought with a sob. Then, clutching her veil to her bosom, she allowed her eyes to reach her husband’s floor. Lights glowed behind the heavy curtains of the glassed doors. The ghosts whispered and the house stiffened with suspense. Inderjeet Kaur descended, quivering with each step. On the first floor landing she cautiously approached the veranda outside her husband’s bedroom, reciting a prayer as a charm against the unknown. The silver on her clothes flashed on and off, turning her into an exotic traffic warning, and a lone pigeon set up a coo. Shut up! hissed Inderjeet Kaur.

Then she spotted a sliver of light between the lowest slats of the bedroom window, waddled to it, took a deep breath and stooping painfully, peered in. The matter was made more painful by the fact that the slats pointed upward, so she had to twist her neck to find herself gazing at the ultra clear reflection in the ceiling mirror. Whatever it was she saw was devastating enough to make her wail in her deep contralto, Hey Gurujee-eee! And then she fainted right there on the veranda, making the house wince, and creating such a disturbance with her metallic outfit and bulk of bosom and buttock that the guard came shouting into the lobby, Heera who was peeping from above came running down, and the lord of the house stormed out wrapped in a sheet. He took one look at Inderjeet Kaur and roared, So this is how you obey me, oh Mother-of-Rupinder! He made a magnificent spectacle, his leonine head cascading with hair albeit from a thinning top, his vast hairy shoulders, and the sheet robe. Some of the witnesses imagined they were in a film. They almost expected him to draw a sword from a jeweled scabbard and plunge it into the heaving breast of the equally hugely magnificent figure of his wife sparkling on the veranda floor. When the courtesan yawned inside the bedroom, as the mischievous mirror recorded, she seemed contemporary and two-dimensional by contrast. She dressed, knowing by experience that the frolicking was over for the night, and picked up her discarded bells, jingling them contemptuously before putting them away in a bag. Then she sat down, made herself a pan, and chewed while awaiting developments. But she was not to be one of the Sardar Bahadur’s major loves, and he sent her away in his carriage that very night, one of the rare nights he forgot to pay homage to the Guru Granth Sahib and bestow on it a serene sukhasan.

Now, three decades later and on the eve of their final departure, Inderjeet Kaur had to join the Guru Granth Sahib’s reinstallation procession with her husband. She was a good five years younger than him, but that made her almost ninety and she didn’t look forward to negotiating the stairs. She waited patiently while the Sardar Bahadur got himself ready, in spite of his dangerously enfeebled state and the dissuasions of his family.

You must listen! his favorite great grandson, Satinder, pleaded. One of us can do it for you. Choose whoever you wish. And we will carry you down so you can watch everything in calmness. But do not try to do it yourself. It will be too much.

He was right, but the Sardar Bahadur’s passion carried him through the occasion. Just. Pulling on his elaborate and much too tight achkanchuridar , the long jacket and tight leggings he insisted on wearing with his sash and medals, he ended up blue in the face and had to sit down heaving, fanned, and fussed over. Fortunately, the ceremony demanded bare feet, though the shoes, which went with the formal wear, had been cleaned and kept ready. When his normal color returned and his breathing calmed, he was hauled up and with an anxious procession supporting him staggered into the old Granth Sahib room. Here, he picked up the book, placed it on his head and summoned the family bhaiji to follow him down the staircase with his yak-tail whisk. The Sardar Bahadur was of a great bulk, and it was hard for him or the procession to proceed in spite of the soothing vocal passage of the musicians summoned to sing shabads and the attempts of the house and ghosts to cushion him. Inderjeet Kaur preceded her husband while her great grandson, Satinder, walked by her holding the pitcher from which she would sprinkle water to purify the path ahead of the book. Thus, sprinkling and whisking, they took off. It was a painfully slow progression. The Sardar Bahadur’s arms trembled under the weight of the book and Inderjeet Kaur found both sprinkling water and walking down sideways almost impossible at her age. The installation was miraculously achieved and the musicians surpassed themselves with their impassioned singing.

The hymn they sang was the same as was sung on the day of the Granth Sahib’s original installation in the Golden Temple.

" . . . the wondrous deed is done

Satisfied are all desires

Filled is the world with joy

All pain ended

Complete, pure, eternal . . . "

The Sardar Bahadur had by then passed out in a dead faint, beginning his own end to pain. Inderjeet Kaur sat by him and fanned him, fearfully aware the inevitable had been put into motion, while a huge feast for all continued in a tent in the garden. The old man recovered in the evening, but stayed on in his holy room, feverishly anxious to move to Amritsar.

So, against the doctor’s advice, he set off just two days later, to achieve his final aim in this life, seen off by the sorrowing house and its ghosts.

He had ensured his peace of mind. After his arrival at Amritsar he was carried on a stretcher straight up to the veranda of his relative’s house, where he opened his eyes briefly to look on the Golden Temple. Then he was laid finally on the floor.

In a feeble voice yet with the familiar commanding authority, he confirmed that fifty cows with gilded horns along with gold sovereigns were to be distributed among the temples and gurudwaras listed by him in Amritsar, Calcutta, and Saidabad, his birthplace. Be kind to your wives, he said. And be devoted and dutiful to your children and grandchildren. You must carry on the family traditions and enterprises and bring further glory to the house of Ohri. And above all, remember to honor and worship your mother.

What about all the times he forgot to honor and worship me when he was tangled with his bawds? thought Inderjeet Kaur. But her heart weighed like a lodestone in her breast.

The Sardar Bahadur breathed his last breath that very day, while the evening hymns filtered to his brain via his impaired hearing, and his soon-to-be widow wept and fanned him with a hand pankha, though an electric fan revolved adequately above them. The evening hymns rose above his death rattle, and as they reached a crescendo, the rituals began. The room was prepared for the procession of mourners who began to file past as soon as the signal was given. Before it was laid in state, the body, including the scanty but long hair, was washed in curds by the men of the family. Inderjeet Kaur begged to be allowed to help, but her emotions and age overwhelmed her and the job was finished in no time without her. Not before she could view her husband’s bare form, the distended flesh, rolling about as it was washed, the hirsute chest and arms with the sagging breasts, the wobbling dome of the belly. Then her eyes were drawn to the folds of flesh hiding the almost invisible worm of the penis and the wildly swinging scrotum distended by late life hydrocele. She had never looked on all this, because till the end, her husband had bathed himself, and they had always had sex in the dark on her insistence. She wished she had seen him in the clear light of the days of their youth, when her enclosing arms could feel his muscular, fat-free body and his penis was more like a snake than a worm as it bit its way into her womb. Then he was washed clean of the curds and made decent again in pure white clothing, with a colorful turban gracing his head. Tubs of ice were brought in and placed next to the body, while fans were set up. Earthen lamps were lit and a pitcher full of water with a coconut at its mouth was placed near his head. He lay there all night, covered in white, while a senior temple priest chanted prayers, placing a fragment of gold in his mouth, touching him with the little golden ladder. The family were silent, stoical, neither sad nor happy, including Inderjeet Kaur who had become quiet. When mourners came in beating their breasts and wailing loudly, they were chided by the sons. The Sardar Bahadur had reached a ripe old age with glory and left a long line of successors, and this wasn’t the time for lament. Soon after dawn, in the room which was thick and unpleasant with incense smoke and sweat, when the sun was already broadcasting its unwelcome heat, the bier was put on a carriage pulled by one of the family Rolls Royces. The Sardar Bahadur’s white shroud, which would turn orange with sprinklings of saffron water on its way to the burning ground, was carefully decorated with flower garlands and gilded coconuts. The bier left the house in a shower of silver coins and golden petals eagerly secured by the waiting crowd. Watching the procession trickle out of sight through the broader routes of the old city from a terrace, Inderjeet Kaur could feel the cold grip of death on her heart as her life’s companion tugged hard at it. She vowed to stay on in Amritsar, to give up the mansion in Calcutta where she had reigned over her family with the fast vanishing figure on the bier.

Whenever any of the Sardar Bahadur’s progeny returned and entered the Rajmahal lobby, they found it sad and strange that this once sparkling area with the playing fountains, statues, and palms should be so sadly divested of its crystalline aspect. The reason was it was now open to the public. Refinements such as running fountains and flowerpots offered themselves readily to the indescribable muck trailing postmen, tradesmen, servants, and other casual visitors. The new landlord tried his best by keeping up a minimum standard with annual whitewashing, daily floor sweeping and swabbing, and removing pigeon droppings. Inside the apartments, however, the sparkle was kept up by its particular and rich tenants.

The original privacy of the upper floors was violated when the central stairway became public and the building was turned inside out as a block of apartments occupied by unconnected tenants. But by now, most of these tenants knew each other’s idiosyncrasies by rote, and with their aging faculties didn’t feel any more comment was needed. This aging also made their bones creak and lungs whistle as they trudged up the stairs. A querulous rumble could be heard about the need for an elevator. The landlord ignored this, knowing well the aged ones had no choice. In a city where such accommodation was precious, his tenants’ yokes to these apartments would loosen only with death. The result was some of the tenants were forced into seclusion and gave up the idea of ever stepping out.

The Rajmahal was concerned, first and foremost with Sardar Bahadur Ohri’s family, to whom it had transferred its loyalty from Raja Sheetanath, and secondly with the new landlords. As to the ghosts, these it welcomed and encouraged. But the Rajmahal strictly curtailed their haunting activities, and the ghosts amused themselves by appearing sometimes to the guards in the lobby and frightening the pigeons.

The Rajmahal observed the negotiations with the new landlord warily. A Muslim in that privileged position was a distressing departure from sanity, was its initial reaction. But what choice did it have? The ghosts were getting hysterical as it was. Both the Sikh and Hindu ghosts, earlier busy with their viciousness toward each other, now showed how virulently anti-Muslim they were, an attitude based more on in-built prejudice than any thought of encountering those alien beings. The Rajmahal had to strain itself to the utmost to contain their agitation . And soon, when the second, could it be called defilement, was in progress as major alterations went under way, its confused efforts at resisting