Frommer's Portland day by day

Contents

16 Favorite Moments

1The Best Full-Day Tours

The Best in One Day

The Best in Two Days

The Best in Three Days

2The Best Special-Interest Tours

Portland with Kids

Offbeat Portland

Rainy Day Portland

3The Best Neighborhood Walks

Downtown Portland

The Pearl District & Old Town

Northwest Portland

Northeast Portland: Irvington, Alameda & Alberta Arts District

Southeast Portland: Hawthorne & Belmont

Inner Southeast

Sellwood

4The Best Shopping

Downtown & Pearl District Shopping

East Side Shopping

Shopping Best Bets

Portland Shopping A to Z

5The Best of the Great Outdoors

Forest Park

Washington Park

Portland by Bike

6The Best Dining

Dining Best Bets

Downtown, Pearl & NW Dining

Southeast Dining

North & Northeast Dining

Dining A to Z

7The Best Nightlife

Portland Nightlife

Nightlife Best Bets

Portland Nightlife A to Z

8The Best Arts & Entertainment

The Best Arts & Entertainment

Arts & Entertainment Best Bets

Arts & Entertainment A to Z

9The Best Hotels

Downtown & Northwest Hotels

East Side Hotels

Hotel Best Bets

Hotels A to Z

10The Best Side Trips

Mount Hood

Columbia River Gorge

Willamette Valley Wine Tour

Oregon Coast

The Savvy Traveler

Before You Go

Getting There

Getting Around

Fast Facts

Portland: A Brief History

Index

Published by:

Frommer Media LLC

Copyright © 2018 Frommer Media LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without the prior written permission of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to [email protected].

Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer.

ISBN: 978-1-628-87384-9 (paper); ISBN 978-1-628-87385-6 (ebk)

Editorial Director: Pauline Frommer

Editor: David Low

Production Editor: Heather Wilcox

Photo Editor: Meghan Lamb

Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell

Compositor: Lissa Auciello-Brogan

Indexer: Maro Riofrancos

Front cover photos, left to right: White Stag sign, Burnside Bridge, © Zenfolio.com. Portland sunrise view, Pittock Mansion, © Josemaria Toscano/Shuttercock.com. All the Apparatus band, Pioneer Courthouse Square, © Torsten Kjellstrand/Zenfolio.com

Back cover photo: Portland cable car view, © EQRoy/Shuttersstock.com

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About this Guide

Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about.

Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.

Planning a first-time trip to Portland with the kids? Looking for great ways to explore the Rose City by bike? Or maybe you want to know how to get the most out of the city even on a rainy Pacific Northwest day. Whatever your interest or schedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow. Not only do we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restaurants, but we also help you access those special moments that locals get to experience—those finds that turn tourists into travelers.

The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and restaurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wildest nightlife—it’s all here.

Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors personally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot who say what they think and would never include places they wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please send your comments our way at [email protected], and we’ll pass them on.

Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime.

About the Author

Donald Olson is a travel writer, novelist, and playwright. His travel stories have appeared in the New York Times, National Geographic, and other national publications. His travel guides for Frommer’s include Seattle Day by Day; Seattle, Portland & the Oregon Coast; and Berlin Day by Day. His book The Pacific Northwest Garden Tour was named by Library Journal as one of the best reference books of 2014. His latest book, The California Garden Tour, was published by Timber Press in 2017.

Advisory & Disclaimer

Travel information can change quickly and unexpectedly, and we strongly advise you to confirm important details locally before traveling, including information on visas, health and safety, traffic and transport, accommodations, shopping, and eating out. We also encourage you to stay alert while traveling and to remain aware of your surroundings. Avoid civil disturbances, and keep a close eye on cameras, purses, wallets, and other valuables.

While we have endeavored to ensure that the information contained within this guide is accurate and up-to-date at the time of publication, we make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all warranties, including without limitation warranties of fitness for a particular purpose. We accept no responsibility or liability for any inaccuracy or errors or omissions, or for any inconvenience, loss, damage, costs, or expenses of any nature whatsoever incurred or suffered by anyone as a result of any advice or information contained in this guide.

The inclusion of a company, organization, or website in this guide as a service provider and/or potential source of further information does not mean that we endorse them or the information they provide. Be aware that information provided through some websites may be unreliable and can change without notice. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any damages arising herefrom.

Star Ratings & Icons

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a fast_fact.jpg icon to point out the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet 1232.jpg .

Frommers.com

Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. Other popular features include:

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A Note on Prices

In the Take a Break (coffee-cup icon) and Best Bets sections of this book, we have used a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree at a restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs:

How to Contact Us

In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: [email protected]

Strolling through the Portland Japanese Garden.

16 Favorite Moments

Sometimes Portland seems almost too good to be true . Just try to get locals to stop rhapsodizing about the cuisine, the liveability and bike-ability, the great neighborhoods, the nearby mountains and ocean, the beer and wine and coffee and—see what I mean? Once the undiscovered city between San Francisco and Seattle, the City of Roses has now been discovered in a very big way, becoming a magnet for creative, outdoorsy folks young, old, and in-between—in short, for anyone who wants a vibrant, forward-thinking city that’s also manageable. Popularity brings its own set of problems, of course, but let’s accentuate the positive and have a look at just a few of the highlights.

Cycling across the Hawthorne Bridge.

❶ Browsing Powell’s City of Books. The world’s top independent bookstore fills an entire city block (and that’s just this branch) with over 1.5 million new and used books. It’s pure bibliophile nirvana. See p 78.

❷ Biking over the Hawthorne Bridge. Bicycling has long been a part of life in Portland, and with the city’s new bike-share program biking has become more popular than ever. There’s no better way to join the rolling masses than to take a spin across the historic Hawthorne Bridge over the Willamette River, especially in the evening. See p 94.

❸ Gazing on Mount Hood from the International Rose Test Garden. The flowers are gorgeous and the views even better up in Washington Park. On a clear day, you can see multiple snowcapped peaks on the eastern horizon, with Mount Hood at center stage. See p 90.

The International Rose Test Garden.

❹ Stocking up at the Portland State University Saturday Farmers Market. Local organic produce, baked goods, food carts, and family-friendly entertainment make the Saturday-morning farmers market at PSU a Saturday must-do from March through December. See p 82.

Saturday Farmers Market at Portland State University.

❺ Enjoying the superb landscapes at the Portland Japanese Garden. The most authentic of its kind outside of Japan, the Portland Japanese Garden is a world-class destination that offers five meticulously created and maintained historic garden styles with new additions by famed Japanese architect Kengo Kuma. See p 90.

❻ Venturing into the Shanghai Tunnels. For a peek into Portland’s sordid past, when drunken sailors and drifters were Shanghaied—kidnapped and forced to work on oceangoing ships––take a guided underground tour. See p 34.

❼ Heading over to Alberta Street for Last Thursdays. In the rest of the city, it’s the first Thursday of every month that brings the gallery openings. Over on Alberta Street on the East Side, though, they go with the Keep Portland Weird theme and turn the whole street into one big party of art, music, and free-spirited independence on the last Thursday. See p 22.

❽ Caffeinating at Caffe Umbria. In this City of Coffee, there are countless cafes to choose from; everyone has his or her favorite spot, and mine is Caffe Umbria, started by master coffee roasters from Perugia. Their bright, modern café in the Pearl District is the closest you’ll come to an authentic Italian coffee and café experience. See p 11.

❾ Having lunch at the original food cart pod. On SW 5th Avenue between Oak and Stark streets, the line-up of food carts offers you a choice from a global variety of dishes including Cuban, Thai, Indian, pizza, or Bulkogi Fusion (that is, Korean tacos), to name just a few. See p 110.

Lunch at the original food cart pod.

❿ Circumnavigating the Willamette River. One of my favorite Portland walks starts downtown in Governor Tom McCall Waterfront Park, crosses the Steel Bridge to the east side, and continues along the Eastbank Esplanade, a floating walkway that offers a primo view of the downtown skyline. At the end of the esplanade, return downtown via the historic Hawthorne Bridge. See p 93.

Skiing on Mount Hood.

⓫ Rambling through Forest Park. Eight square miles of wild forest, streams, gorges, and fern-covered hillsides wait on the west side of the city, just minutes from downtown, with more than 70 miles of hiking trails and fire roads to explore. See p 86.

⓬ Catching a movie at the Bagdad Theater. Order a microbrew and a slice of pizza and enjoy a second-run movie in this fully restored 1927 movie palace in the lively Hawthorne District. Stay for dinner or a drink afterward, or venture down the block for dozens of other nightlife options. See p 129.

⓭ Tasting local pinot noirs in the Willamette Valley. South of Portland, the mild climate and volcanic soil of the Willamette River Valley is ideal for growing wine grapes, which translates into more than 400 wineries. See p 150.

⓮ Skiing on Mount Hood in the summer. It’s the only place in the country with lift-accessible skiing year-round, but it’s even better in the winter. Or just head up to Mount Hood to enjoy the views from Timberline Lodge, a WPA masterpiece opened by FDR in 1938. See p 142.

⓯ Hiking to a waterfall in the Columbia River Gorge. There are plenty to choose from, but from the Oneonta Trailhead, one easy loop leads you to four waterfalls, including a cascade that you walk behind. Be forewarned, though: A wildfire in 2017 caused some road closures in and around the Gorge, so do a little research before you go. See p 144.

⓰ Walking on an Oregon beach. The Pacific Ocean is too chilly and wild up here to swim in, but Oregon’s shoreline is spectacular and filled with towering headlands, white-sand beaches and charming beach towns you can reach on an easy day trip from Portland. See p 155. •