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    London Plaques
    London Plaques
    London Plaques
    Ebook822 pages8 hours

    London Plaques

    By Derek Sumeray and John Sheppard

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    About this ebook

    London's buildings are dotted with commemorative plaques. Many are the famous blue plaques, indicating where a famous person was born, lived, stayed, or if a significant event took place there, or an earlier use of the site. This book is a comprehensive gazetteer of all of London's plaques. Using Derek Sumeray's classic book as a basis, this thoroughly revised new edition arranges plaques alphabetically by area, providing a text that is linked to London's geography and, therefore, of greater use to a resident or visitor wanting to explore the famous people and events commemorated in that area.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherBloomsbury Publishing
    Release dateAug 20, 2011
    ISBN9780747811558
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    • 4/5
      Very useful guide to the Blue (and brown, and black) Plaques in London until 1999.

    Book preview

    London Plaques - Derek Sumeray

    THE CITY OF LONDON

    THE CITY is London’s ancient core, its boundaries not significantly changed since the Middle Ages. It is the smallest of Greater London’s administrative districts, known also as ‘the Square Mile’, which is indeed its rough extent. It has its own Lord Mayor and its own police force. It is Britain’s financial centre and vies with New York as the world’s financial centre. It is a place of work for some 350,000 people, who commute in daily, while the City’s resident population was a mere 7,800 in 2006, compared with its peak of 208,000 in 1700.

    Topographically, the two big events in the City’s history are the Great Fire of 1666 and the Blitz of 1940–1, which both wrought widespread damage. These events are reflected in the many plaques recording some ancient building ‘destroyed in the Great Fire’ or in the Blitz.

    The principal erector of plaques is the Corporation of the City of London, which has been putting them up since 1923. Ninety-eight of their distinctive blue ceramic rectangular plaques are recorded here, out of the total of 152 plaques found in the City. Sadly, several of those noted by Derek Sumeray have not survived redevelopments in the subsequent decade; the lame-brained property developers who had not the wit to remove the plaques before demolition and reinstate them after rebuilding should in my view have their severed heads stuck up on London Bridge.

    ALDERSGATE

    1 Aldersgate Street, EC1. Corporation of the City of London

    This is the site of Aldersgate, the main northern entrance to London. There were eight gates in the wall surrounding the old City, all demolished by the end of the eighteenth century, with the exception of Temple Bar. Aldersgate was first built in Roman times, but its name is Saxon, meaning originally ‘Ealdred’s gate’. It was rebuilt in 1617, damaged in the Great Fire, repaired, and finally demolished in 1761.

    ALDGATE

    89 Aldgate High Street, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    This is the site of Aldgate, the eastern entrance to London. One of the six gates dating back to Roman times, its name is the Saxon ‘Ealdgate’ (‘old gate’). Chaucer (q.v.) lived in the room over the gate from 1374 to 1385. Rebuilt in the early twelfth century and again at the beginning of the seventeenth century, it was demolished in 1760.

    ANTI-CORN LAW LEAGUE

    69 Fleet Street, EC4. Private

    This was the site of the London offices of the Anti-Corn Law League from 1844 to 1846. Founded in Manchester in 1838, the League sought the abolition of the protectionist Corn Laws, which inflated the price of basic foodstuffs. The Corn Laws were repealed in 1846, and the League turned to a general campaign for free trade.

    ASTLEY, Dame Joanna (c.1388–1452), English, courtier

    St Bartholomew’s Hospital, West Smithfield, EC1. Dove Brothers

    Dame Joanna (or Joan) Astley (or Asteley) lived in a house formerly on this site. In January 1424 she was appointed principal nurse to the two-year-old Henry VI, at an annual salary of £20. In 1433 she was granted an annuity, presumably because the twelve-year-old king no longer needed a nurse. The plaque is incorporated in a 1907 foundation stone on a building of St Bartholomew’s Hospital.

    AUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATION

    18 Fleet Street, EC4. Automobile Association

    The Automobile Association was formed by a group of motoring enthusiasts at a meeting at the Trocadero restaurant on 29 June 1905 and opened its first office in this building the same year. The initial aim was to help motorists avoid police speed traps, but they also began erecting the first useful road signs.

    BECKET, St Thomas à (?1118–70), English, prelate

    90 Cheapside, EC2. Private

    86 Cheapside, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    Both plaques tell of Becket’s birth here or nearby. He became chancellor to Henry II in 1155 and was for a time the king’s most intimate courtier, being made Archbishop of Canterbury in 1162. Thereafter relations with the king went downhill and Becket was murdered in his cathedral by four knights seeking Henry’s favour. His shrine became the most famous place of pilgrimage in Christendom until the Reformation.

    BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL, First

    Great Eastern Hotel, Liverpool Street, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the first Bethlehem Hospital, 1247–1676. It was built by Simon FitzMary and by the late fourteenth century had come to specialise in ‘distracted’ cases. It moved in 1676.

    BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL, Second

    145–149 London Wall, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the second Bethlehem Hospital, 1676–1815. Designed by Robert Hooke, the gates were adorned with Cibber’s statues of Melancholy and Madness, two giant figures modelled on inmates (which can still be seen in the Bethlem Royal Hospital Museum at Beckenham). The patients here were one of the sights of London, arranged in galleries like a zoo. The hospital moved to Lambeth in 1815, to the building that is now the Imperial War Museum.

    BETJEMAN, Sir John (1906–84), English, poet, conservationist

    43 Cloth Court, Cloth Fair, EC1. Private

    Sir John lived here. A founder member of the Victorian Society in 1958, he was a passionate conservationist, leading the successful campaign to save the St Pancras Hotel, but failing to save the Euston Arch. He was made Poet Laureate in 1972 and enjoyed a popularity unusual for modern poets, not least through his jolly, whimsical television documentaries. (See also page 99.)

    BINNEY, Captain Ralph (1888–1944), English, naval officer

    22 Birchin Lane, EC3. Royal Navy

    Binney had joined the Royal Navy in 1903 and retired in 1933, but with the outbreak of the Second World War he was back in uniform serving as chief staff officer to Admiral Nasmith. At noon on 8 December 1944 he was among a large crowd of shoppers in Birchin Lane when a smash and grab raid took place. Fifty-six-year-old Captain Binney, alone among the onlookers, attempted to stop the thieves and was dragged under their speeding car across the river as far as Tooley Street, Southwark, where he was thrown clear. He died three hours later in Guy’s Hospital.

    BLACKFRIARS PRIORY

    7 Ludgate Broadway, Ludgate Hill, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    The Priory existed on this site from 1278 until dissolution in 1538, with grounds extending to the river. The priory was sold to Sir Thomas Cawarden, Master of the Revels, who demolished most of the buildings. Parts survived, being used for various purposes, including a playhouse, until the whole was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666.

    BLACKSMITHS’ HALL

    Queen Victoria Street, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the second hall of the company, 1668–1785. Its first hall, on the site of today’s Salvation Army headquarters, had been built in 1494 and was destroyed in the Great Fire.

    BOMB, First of the Second World War

    Fore Street, EC2. Private

    The first bomb of the Second World War on the City fell here at 12.15 a.m. on 25 August 1940. The ‘first’ Blitz would last till May 1941, killing 43,000 civilians, half of them in London, and destroying or damaging over a million houses in London alone. It had no significant effect on the British war effort. (For other Second World War bomb damage sites, see Tower Hamlets, Southwark, Newham, Kingston and Lewisham.)

    BRADFORD, John (?1510–55), English, cleric, martyr

    St Bartholomew’s Hospital, West Smithfield, EC1. Protestant Alliance London

    Burnt near this spot in 1555, Bradford was a very popular preacher. Imprisoned on a charge of preaching seditious sermons, he wrote to Cranmer, Latimer and Ridley as his execution approached: ‘God forgive me mine unthankfulness for this exceeding great mercy, that, amongst so many thousands, it pleaseth His mercy to choose me to be one, in whom He will suffer.’

    BRAY, John (fl.1738–42), English, brazier

    13 Little Britain, EC1. Corporation of the City of London

    Bray has a walk-on part in history. This was the site of his home; he was a layman, ‘a pious brazier’, whose house was used for early Methodist/Moravian meetings until the Fetter Lane Meeting Room was formed. It was here that Charles Wesley (see page 22) experienced his evangelical conversion on 21 May 1738. Bray quarrelled with the Wesleys in 1740 and with the Moravians in 1742 and thereafter disappears from the records.

    BRIDEWELL PALACE

    14 New Bridge Street, EC4. Private

    This was the site of the Bridewell Palace, erected by Henry VIII in 1515–20 and granted to the City by Edward VI in 1553 to house the Bridewell Royal Hospital. It continued as a hospital, prison and orphanage until 1855. The buildings were demolished in 1863–4, apart from the 1802 gateway, which survives.

    BRIGHT, John (1811–89), English, reformer

    69 Fleet Street, EC4. Private

    This plaque commemorates the Anti-Corn Law League (see page 6), of which Bright and Richard Cobden (see opposite) were the leading lights. Bright was one of the greatest orators of the nineteenth century, campaigning not only for free trade but also against the Crimean War. He coined the phrase ‘England is the Mother of Parliaments’ in 1865.

    BRODERERS’ HALL

    Priest Court, 32 Gutter Lane, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the hall of the Broderers’ Company from 1515 to 1940. The company is recorded from 1376 and English embroidery was famous throughout Europe. The hall was rebuilt after the Great Fire of 1666, but by the nineteenth century had fallen into disuse and was used as a warehouse until destroyed by enemy action in 1940.

    BROOKING, Charles (1723–59), English, marine artist

    Tokenhouse Yard, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    Brooking lived near here in 1754. It is suggested that he was brought up near the dockyard at Deptford and that his father worked at Greenwich Naval Hospital. He is considered the finest marine artist of his era, and his attention to detail shows clear understanding of the sea and ships. Most of his extant work dates from the last six years of his career, and the National Maritime Museum has twenty of his paintings.

    BUCKINGHAM, second Duke of (1628–87), English, courtier

    Newcastle Court, College Hill, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    Politician and courtier, the second Duke of Buckingham, whose house was here, was brought up with Charles I’s children, escaped the country during the Civil War and returned with Charles II, afterwards spending many years in Parliament. He also wrote several comedies.

    BULL AND MOUTH INN

    Nomura House, St Martin’s-le-Grand, EC1. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the Bull and Mouth inn, first recorded as ‘The Mouth’ in 1661. The inn was a regular meeting place of the Quakers and, before the coming of the railways, a coaching office. It was demolished in 1888 to make way for the General Post Office.

    CHRIST’S HOSPITAL

    Former Post Office Building, Newgate Street, EC1. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of Christ’s Hospital from 1552 to 1902. It was founded by Edward VI as a hospital (school) for orphans. Severely damaged in the Great Fire of 1666, it was rebuilt under the supervision of Sir Christopher Wren. The school moved to Horsham, Sussex, in 1902.

    CITY OF LONDON GIRLS’ SCHOOL

    Carmelite Street, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the school from 1894 to 1969. It was founded with a bequest from William Ward, a philanthropist and City freeman, who, although he had no daughters himself, believed that girls were just as entitled to a proper education as boys. The school moved to the Barbican in 1969.

    CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL

    3 Milk Street, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the school from 1835 to 1882. Warren Stormes Hale, chairman of the Corporation’s Schools Committee, led the drive for an Act of Parliament establishing the school, which grew so rapidly that it moved to the Embankment in 1882. It has moved again since, in 1986, to new buildings by the Millennium Bridge.

    CLAYTON, Reverend

    ‘Tubby’ (1885–1972), English, cleric

    43 Trinity Square, EC3. English Heritage

    ‘Tubby’ Clayton lived here. He founded Talbot House (in signals parlance ‘Toc H’) in Belgium in 1915 as a rest house for soldiers. This has now grown into a worldwide organisation promoting especially racial harmony – ‘to love widely, to build bravely, to think fairly, to witness humbly’.

    CLEARY, Fred (1905–84), English, property developer

    Cleary Gardens, Huggin Hill, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    A chartered surveyor, Cleary founded and chaired a property company noted for restoring old buildings and responsible for some of the largest developments in the City. A City councillor, he was, as the plaque says, ‘tireless in his wish to increase open space’. This garden is named in his honour.

    COBDEN, Richard (1804–65), English, statesman

    69 Fleet Street, EC4. Private

    The plaque commemorates the Anti-Corn Law League (see page 6), with which Cobden and John Bright (see pages 8–9) are always associated. Cobden spent his life promoting free trade, based on the high moral purpose of seeking peace and goodwill among all men. Disinterested and modest, he declined all honours from both Britain and France after his work had brought reconciliation between the perennial enemies.

    COFFEE HOUSE, First in London

    Jamaica Wine House, St Michael’s Alley, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the first London coffee house, ‘At the Sign of Pasqua Rosee’s Head’, established in 1652. Pasqua Rosee was a Turk from Smyrna, brought to England as the servant of a Levant merchant, Daniel Edwards, whose friends were so taken with Rosee’s brew that Edwards helped him set up a coffee house. He produced a handbill, ‘The Vertue of the Coffee Drink’, and the vogue began.

    COLET, Dean John (?1467–1519), English, cleric

    New Change, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    The plaque records that near this spot stood St Paul’s School from 1512 to 1884, founded by Dean Colet. Colet wrote a Latin grammar for the school and endowed it with the fortune he inherited from his father. The school moved to Hammersmith in 1884.

    COOKS’ HALL

    10 Aldersgate Street, EC1. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the hall of the Cooks’ Company, founded in 1311 and given its first charter in 1482. The hall was built in 1500, survived the Great Fire, was extended in 1674, burnt down and rebuilt in 1764, finally burnt down (and not rebuilt) in 1771.

    CORDWAINERS’ HALL

    Festival Garden, Cannon Street, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of six successive halls of the Cordwainers’ Company from 1440 until the sixth was destroyed by enemy action in 1941. ‘Cordwainer’ originally meant a worker in Cordovan goatskin leather, producing shoes, bottles and harnesses, but came to mean a shoemaker.

    CRIPPLEGATE

    Roman House, Wood Street, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    This is the site of Cripplegate, first built by the Romans and rebuilt in 1490 for use as a prison and gateway. The gate was destroyed in the reign of Charles II and the building finally demolished in 1760.

    CROSSKEYS INN

    Bell Yard, Gracechurch Street, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    The crossed keys of St Peter were the arms of the papal see, and the inn on this site was in the shadow of a church dedicated to St Peter. First recorded in 1552, it was destroyed in the Great Fire and not rebuilt.

    CURTIS, William (1746–99), English, botanist

    51 Gracechurch Street, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    Curtis lived in a house on this site. He translated Linnaeus’s Fundamenta Entomologiciae (1772), published the six-volume Flora Londiniensis (1777–98) and founded the Botanical Magazine (1781). He also set up public botanical gardens at Bermondsey and Lambeth, which were frequented by students.

    CUTLERS’ HALL

    College Hill Chambers, Cloak Lane, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    The Cutlers’ first hall was built in 1285 in Poultry but they moved to Cloak Lane in 1416. The hall was rebuilt in 1451, again in 1660 and yet again in 1671. It was demolished to make way for the railway. The present Cutlers’ Hall is in Warwick Lane.

    DAILY COURANT

    12 Ludgate Circus, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    Near this site was published in 1702 the Daily Courant, London’s first daily newspaper. It was produced by Edward Mallet and consisted of a single sheet with two columns. It merged with the Daily Gazetteer in 1735.

    DE ROKESLEY, Gregory (d.1292), English, wool merchant

    72 Lombard Street, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    De Rokesley lived in a house on this site. Eight times mayor of London (1274–81 and 1285), he was a prominent wool merchant, member of the Goldsmiths’ Company, alderman of Dowgate ward, chief saymaster of all the King’s Mints, keeper of the King’s Exchange, and evidently a favourite of Edward I.

    DEVIL TAVERN

    1 Fleet Street, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    This is the site of the Devil Tavern, first recorded around 1563; it was demolished in 1787. It was first called the St Dunstan Tavern owing to its proximity to the church of that name; but it became known as the Devil, or the Devil and Dunstan, because its sign illustrated the story of St Dunstan and the Devil:

    Saynct Dunstane, as ye storie goes,

    Once seized ye Deville by ye nose,

    Hee tugged soe harde and made hym rore

    That he was heerd thre myles and more.

    DISRAELI, Benjamin (1804–81), English, Prime Minister, novelist

    6 Frederick’s Place, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    Disraeli was an articled clerk to Messrs Swain, Stevens, Maples, Pearse & Hunt, solicitors, in this building from 1821 to 1824. (See also Waltham Forest, Westminster 3, and Camden 2.)

    DOCKWRA, William (d.1716), English, merchant

    Lloyd’s Building, Lime Street, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    Dockwra founded a Penny Post system for London near this spot in 1680. He was comptroller of the Penny Post from 1697 to 1700 but was dismissed on charges of maladministration.

    DOCTORS’ COMMONS

    Faraday Building, Queen Victoria Street, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    This is the site of Doctors’ Commons, demolished in 1867. This was the colloquial name for the College of Advocates and Doctors of Law, from 1572 housing the Ecclesiastical and Admiralty courts. Steerforth, in Dickens’s David Copperfield, described it as ‘a lazy old nook near St Paul’s … where they play all kinds of tricks with obsolete old monsters of Acts of Parliament, which three-fourths of the world know nothing about’.

    FARYNER, Thomas (fl.1666), English, baker

    Pudding Lane, EC3. Worshipful Company of Bakers

    Faryner, the king’s baker, had his shop near this spot. Because he failed to damp down his oven kindling for the weekend, this is where the Great Fire of London of 1666 started. It began at 1.30 a.m. on Saturday 1 September and burned till 6 September, destroying 13,200 houses, St Paul’s Cathedral and eighty-seven other churches, fifty-two livery company halls, two prisons, three city gates, four bridges etc. – and the Bakers’ Company has never been allowed to forget it.

    FOUNDERS’ HALL

    Founders’ Court, Lothbury, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    In this court stood the Founders’ Hall from 1531 to 1845. The Founders’ Company, dating from at least 1365, received its first charter in 1614. Its members made brass and bronze candlesticks, water bowls and the like. Their hall was destroyed in the Great Fire and rebuilt on the same spot. In the 1790s it was a meeting place for people sympathetic to the French Revolution and was known as ‘the cauldron of sedition’.

    FREEMASONS, First meeting of English Grand Lodge

    Juxon House, St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    English Masonic historians attach great significance to 24 June 1717 (St John the Baptist’s Day), when four London lodges came together at the Goose and Gridiron alehouse on this spot in St Paul’s Churchyard and formed what they called the ‘Grand Lodge of England’. Although Freemasonry had existed in England since at least the mid-seventeenth century, this founding of the Grand Lodge is taken as the formation of organised Freemasonry in its modern sense.

    FRENCH PROTESTANT CHURCH

    Nomura House, St Martin’s-le-Grand, EC1. Corporation of the City of London

    This is the site of the first French Protestant church, built in the sixteenth century for French refugees from persecution at home. It was demolished in 1888, and the present French Protestant church (built 1891–3) is in Soho Square, W1.

    FRY, Elizabeth (1780–1845), English, prison reformer

    St Mildred’s Court, Poultry, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    Mrs Fry lived here from 1800 to 1809. A Quaker, she devoted her life to prison and asylum reform, having discovered the appalling conditions in Newgate jail. Her face appears on the reverse side of the current £5 note. (See also Hackney.)

    GENERAL LETTER OFFICE

    Princes Street, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    Near this spot, in Post House Yard, stood the General Letter Office from 1653 to 1666. The first postmarks in the world were introduced here in 1661. They indicated the date of receipt of the letter in the London office. At that time all British mail had to pass through London.

    GILTSPUR STREET COMPTER

    2 Giltspur Street, EC1. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the Giltspur Street Compter, a small prison holding mainly debtors, but also felons, vagrants and other overnight charges such as recalcitrant drunks. Designed by George Dance the Younger (q.v.), it opened in 1791 and was demolished in 1854.

    GLOVERS’ HALL

    Silk Street entrance, Barbican, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    The hall of the Glovers’ Company stood near here from the seventeenth century until the company gave it up in 1882.

    GRAHAM, George (1673–1751), English, clockmaker

    69 Fleet Street, EC4. Private

    ‘Honest George’, a Quaker like his mentor Tompion (see below), made improvements to the pendulum clock, invented the mercury pendulum and the Graham or dead-beat escapement. He was master of the Clockmakers’ Company in 1722.

    GRAY, Thomas (1716–71), English, poet

    39 Cornhill, EC3. Private

    Gray was the leading poet of his day. His Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard (1751), quoted on the plaque, was composed in Stoke Poges churchyard, Buckinghamshire, and remains one of the most popular poems in the English language.

    GRESHAM, Sir Thomas (1519–79), English, financier

    International Finance Centre, Old Broad Street, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    Sir Thomas lived in a house on this site. Besides acting as a royal agent in Spain and the Low Countries, he was an important source of political intelligence to William Cecil, Elizabeth I’s principal adviser. He founded the first English paper mills at Osterley in 1565, founded and built at his own expense the first Royal Exchange in 1566–8 and bequeathed his house in Bishopsgate for the foundation of Gresham College. Sir Thomas’s plaque is currently almost entirely hidden by the insensitive location of a portable sandwich kiosk.

    GREY FRIARS’ MONASTERY

    106 Newgate Street, EC1. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the Grey Friars’ monastery from 1225 to 1538, built on land given to the monks by a mercer, John Ewin. After the dissolution of the monasteries, the buildings continued in various uses until the last of them were demolished at the end of the nineteenth century to make way for the General Post Office.

    GUY, Thomas (c.1644–1724), English, bookseller

    1 Cornhill, EC3. Private

    Guy’s home and bookselling business were here from 1668 until his death. In addition to founding Guy’s Hospital, he also built and furnished three wards at St Thomas’s Hospital (1707) and founded several almshouses. His fortune was based on shrewd stock speculation, especially with the South Sea Company.

    HAZLITT, William (1778–1830), English, essayist

    6 Bouverie Street, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    Hazlitt lived here in 1829. A prolific journalist, critic, essayist and lecturer, heavily influenced by Coleridge (q.v.), his work is characterised by invective, irony and a gift for epigram. His Lectures on the English Comic Writers (1819) and The Spirit of the Age (1825) are among his enduring works. (See also Westminster 3.)

    HOOD, Thomas (1799–1845), English, poet

    Midland Bank, Poultry, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    Hood was born in a house on this site on 23 May 1799. ‘Next to being a citizen of the world’, he wrote in his Literary Reminiscences, ‘it must be the best thing to be born a citizen of the world’s greatest city.’ (See also Westminster 1, Westminster 4 and Enfield.)

    HOWARD, Sir Ebenezer (1850–1928), English, garden city pioneer

    Moor House, London Wall, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    The plaque records that Sir Ebenezer was born near this spot on 29 January 1850 at 62 Fore Street. (See also Hackney.)

    JOHNSON, Dr Samuel (1709–84), English, lexicographer, critic, conversationalist

    17 Gough Square, EC4. Royal Society of Arts

    Johnson’s Court, Fleet Street, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    Dr Johnson lived at the first address from 1748 to 1759, and at the second from 1765 to 1776. In Gough Square he compiled his celebrated Dictionary of the English Language (1755), which included such cherishable definitions as ‘Oats: a grain, which in England is generally given to horses, but in Scotland supports the people’. The Gough Square house is now a shrine to the doctor, open six days a week.

    JONATHAN’S COFFEE HOUSE

    Change Alley, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    This was where the ‘South Sea Bubble’, the great speculation scandal of the early eighteenth century, was fomented. The house was destroyed by fire in 1748, rebuilt, destroyed again by fire in 1778 and not rebuilt.

    KEATS, John (1795–1821), English, poet

    87 Moorgate, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    The plaque records that Keats was born in the ‘Swan & Hoop’, livery stables run by his father, on this site in 1795. (See also Enfield and Camden 1.)

    KING WILLIAM STREET UNDERGROUND STATION

    Monument Street, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the City’s first Underground terminus from 1890 to 1900. The City & South London line from Stockwell was the world’s first electric tube, but problems with the gradients and an awkward curve into the station led to closure after ten years. It had a revival as an air-raid shelter in the Second World War.

    KING’S ARMS TAVERN

    Change Alley, EC3. Private

    Originally ‘The Swan’, built in 1681, the tavern was destroyed in the Cornhill fire of 1748, rebuilt as the King’s Arms and survived till the 1790s. ‘King’s Arms’ was and is one of the most ubiquitous pub names; there are over fifty in Greater London today.

    KING’S WARDROBE

    5 Wardrobe Place, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the King’s Wardrobe, built in the fourteenth century as a private house and sold to Edward III to house his ceremonial robes. After its destruction in the Great Fire of 1666, the Wardrobe was moved to the Savoy and later to Buckingham Street.

    LAMB, Charles (1775–1834), English, essayist

    2 Crown Office Row, Temple, EC2. Private

    10 Giltspur Street, EC1. Private

    Lamb was born in chambers formerly on the first site and attended the Bluecoat School near the second site. (See Enfield and Islington.)

    LAURENCE POUNTNEY CHURCH and CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE

    Laurence Pountney Hill, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the church and college, destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. Sir John de Poultney (died 1349), four times mayor of London, endowed the college of priests. He lived nearby and his house, too, was destroyed in the fire. After the fire the parish was united with St Mary Abchurch.

    LINACRE, Thomas (1460–1524), English, physician

    Rear wall of Faraday Building, Knightrider Street, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    Linacre lived in a house on this site. Physician to Henry VII and Henry VIII, he was the founder and first president of the Royal College of Physicians (1518), as well as founding lectureships in medicine at both Oxford and Cambridge. He was also a noted classical scholar, tutoring the future Queen Mary. The plaque, in a poor condition, is not easily accessible.

    LLOYD’S COFFEE HOUSE

    15 Lombard Street, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of Lloyd’s Coffee House from 1691 to 1785. Established by Edward Lloyd, it became a meeting place for businessmen, some of whom developed an insurance business devoted to shipping. Over the years this grew into the present Lloyd’s insurance company.

    LONDON HOUSE

    172 Aldersgate Street, EC1. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of London House, home of the bishops of London from the Reformation until its destruction by fire in 1766.

    LONDON PENNY POST

    Lloyd’s Building, Lime Street, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    See the entry for William Dockwra (page 11).

    LONDON SALVAGE CORPS

    61 Watling Street, EC4. Private

    Founded in 1866, when firefighting was the responsibility of the Metropolitan Board of Works, which gave insurance companies the right to set up a separate salvage force to attend fires. After leaving here, the Corps continued till 1984, when its duties were taken over by the London Fire Brigade.

    LORINERS’ HALL

    London Wall, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    The Loriners’ Hall stood near this spot, at the northern end of Basinghall Street, from 1711 to 1759.

    LORINERS’ TRADE

    1 Poultry, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site where Loriners traded from the eleventh century to the thirteenth. Loriners made bits and metal mountings for horses’ bridles, spurs, stirrups and other harness parts. They were initially inferior to the Saddlers, but their own livery company was chartered in 1711.

    LUDGATE

    Ludgate Hill, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    The original Lud Gate was supposedly built by King Lud in pre-Roman times but, since his very existence is open to question, it is more plausible to attribute it to the Romans. Rebuilt in 1215, again in 1586, and repaired after the Great Fire, it was demolished in 1760. Statues of Queen Elizabeth I and of King Lud and his sons, which formerly adorned the gate, are preserved outside the church of St Dunstan in the West.

    MARCONI, Guglielmo (1874–1937), Italian, physicist, inventor

    British Telecom Building, Newgate Street, EC1. Private

    Marconi’s first successful transmission had been in Italy in 1895, but there was not much interest there, so he came to England and gave his first public demonstration here on 27 July 1896. By 1901 he had achieved transatlantic radio communication. He shared the 1909 Nobel Prize for Physics. (See also Westminster 2.)

    MARINE SOCIETY

    Change Alley, EC3. Private

    The society, now operating from Lambeth, was formed at the King’s Arms Tavern here on 25 June 1756 to promote careers at sea for boys, especially those living in needy circumstances. It is now the world’s oldest seafarers’ charity, providing advice, training and support to merchant sailors.

    MILTON, John (1608–74), English, poet, essayist

    Bow Bells House, Bread Street, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    Born near here, Milton’s reputation as England’s greatest poet – which some dispute – rests mainly on his epic Paradise Lost (1667), but his merits are equally demonstrated by his pamphleteering in the Parliamentary cause, especially in Areopagitica (1644), a ringing defence of press freedom that should be compulsory reading for any would-be censors to this day.

    MITRE TAVERN

    37 Fleet Street, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    This was a favourite watering hole for Shakespeare (q.v.) and Ben Jonson (q.v.). Dr Johnson (q.v.) and James Boswell (q.v.) had their first long evening together here in June 1763. ‘Give me your hand, I have taken a liking to you,’ said the Doctor.

    MOOR GATE

    72 Moorgate, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of Moor Gate, demolished in 1761. Originally a postern, a minor gate, leading to Moorfields, the marshy open land to the north, it was rebuilt twice in the fifteenth century, again in 1511, and again in 1672 after damage in the Great Fire. The stones from its demolition were sold to the Corporation for £166 and used to support the newly widened central arch of London Bridge.

    MORE, St Thomas (1478–1535), English, cleric, statesman

    20 Milk Street, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    More was born in a house on this site. (See fuller entry in Kensington & Chelsea 2.)

    NEWBERY, John (1713–67), English, publisher

    St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4. Pennsylvania Library Association

    Newbery lived, published and sold books on this site. His most notable publications were Goody Two Shoes (possibly by Oliver Goldsmith [q.v.]) and Mother Goose. His memory is particularly alive in the United States, where the annual prize for best children’s book is named in his honour.

    NEWGATE

    Newgate Street, EC1. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of Newgate, possibly in existence as early as 857, rebuilt in the reign of Henry I, rebuilt by Sir Richard Whittington (q.v.), destroyed by fire and rebuilt in 1555–6, destroyed again in the Great Fire of 1666, rebuilt in 1672, and finally demolished in 1777.

    NEWMAN, Cardinal John Henry (1801–90), English, prelate

    Old Broad Street, EC2. Private

    Cardinal Newman was born near this spot. (See fuller entries in Richmond and Camden 2.)

    NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE

    Nomura House, St Martin’s-le-Grand, EC1. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of Northumberland House. Dating from 1352, the house was owned by Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, descended from William de Percy, who came over with William the Conqueror. The second earl, known as Harry Hotspur, who lived here, was killed at the battle of Shrewsbury in 1403. By the early eighteenth century the house is recorded as having become a tavern.

    OBRADOVICH, Dositey (1742–1811), Serbian, man of letters

    27 Clement’s Lane, EC4. Private

    Before Obradovich, Serbian literature was written in Russian-Slavonic, a language known only to the educated classes. Obradovich said books should be in the language people spoke, and his works were a huge success. He was made Minister of Education in 1807.

    O’CONNOR, T. P. (1848–1929), Irish, journalist, politician

    78 Fleet Street, EC4. Private

    O’Connor was a notably popular public figure, widely called ‘the Tribune of the People’, who founded various radical journals. He entered Parliament in 1880, the only Irish Nationalist ever elected by an English constituency, eventually becoming ‘Father of the House’, and from 1924 he was a privy councillor.

    OLD LONDON BRIDGE, Approach

    St Magnus the Martyr, Lower Thames Street, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    This churchyard formed part of the approach to Old London Bridge from 1176 to 1831. This was the first stone bridge, replacing previous wooden bridges dating from Roman times. The 1831 replacement was built upstream but now stands at Lake Havasu, Arizona.

    OLD SERJEANTS’ INN

    5 Chancery Lane, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    The serjeants, a branch of the legal profession, occupied various premises in this area from the fifteenth century. This one stood from 1415 to 1910, though the serjeants had sold it in 1877.

    PARISH CLERKS’ COMPANY, First hall

    Clerks Place, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the first hall of the Parish Clerks’ Company. Originally the Fraternity of St Nicholas, dating from at least 1274, they are not strictly a livery company, on the grounds that the surplice has precedence over the livery. This hall was confiscated during the Reformation under the Act of 1547 for suppressing chantries.

    PARISH CLERKS’ COMPANY, Third hall

    88 Wood Street, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    Their second hall having been destroyed in the Great Fire, the Parish Clerks occupied a hall on this site from 1671 until it was destroyed by fire in the Blitz, December 1940.

    PEPYS, Samuel (1632–1703), English, diarist, civil servant

    Salisbury Court, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    Seething Lane Garden, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    Pepys was born in a house on the first site and worked in the Navy Office on the second site until its destruction by fire in 1671. His Diary, now regarded as a priceless window on Restoration London, was written between 1660 and 1669 in a private shorthand that was not deciphered until 1825. After his death Pepys was remembered by John Evelyn as ‘universally beloved, hospitable, generous, learned in many things, skilled in music, a very great cherisher of learned men’. (See also Westminster 4.)

    PHILPOT, John (1516–55), English, cleric, martyr

    St Bartholomew’s Hospital, West Smithfield, EC1. Protestant Alliance London

    Philpot was burnt near this spot on 18 December 1555. He had been constantly engaged in controversy and was imprisoned as a heretic after Queen Mary’s accession. Condemned to death, he replied: ‘I thank God that I am a heretic out of your cursed church; I am no heretic before God.’

    POPE, Alexander (1688–1744), English, poet, essayist

    Plough Court, 32 Lombard Street, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    Pope was born in a house in this court. He was the only child of his elderly parents (his mother was in her forties when he was born), and they were Catholics, which meant that his father had to retire from his successful linen business at the time of Pope’s birth under anti-Catholic laws introduced with the coming of William III. When Pope was seven they moved to Hammersmith. (See also Hounslow.)

    POULTERS’ HALL

    King Edward Street, EC1. Corporation of the City of London

    Near this spot stood the hall of the Poulters’ Company from 1630 to 1666, destroyed in the Great Fire. The Poulters’ (i.e. poulterers’) Company was in existence as early as 1345 but did not receive its royal charter until the reign of Henry VII in 1504. The hall was originally sited at Leadenhall Market.

    ROGERS, John (?1500–55), English, cleric, martyr

    St Bartholomew’s Hospital, West Smithfield, EC1. Protestant Alliance London

    Burnt at the stake near this spot in 1555, Rogers became the first Protestant martyr in the reign of ‘Bloody Mary’. An intimate of William Tyndale, he was responsible for the clandestine production of the first Bible in English in 1537 (see Southwark). Foxe, in his Book of Martyrs, describes his death: ‘When the fire had taken hold both upon his legs and shoulders, he, as one feeling no smart, washed his hands in the flame, as though it had been in cold water.’

    ROMAN BASILICA

    Gracechurch Street and Leadenhall Street, EC3. Private

    On this site stood the Roman basilica, AD c. 120. Its remains were uncovered during excavations by the Museum of London in 1986. The basilica was the north range of the Roman forum. A pier from its south arcade is preserved in the basement of 90 Gracechurch Street, in a hairdressing salon.

    ROYAL COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS

    Warwick Lane, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the College of Physicians from 1674 to 1825. Founded by Henry VIII’s physician, Thomas Linacre (see page 14), in 1518, the college had leased premises from St Paul’s in Paternoster Row. When they were destroyed in the Great Fire, this building was erected to designs by Christopher Wren (q.v.). The college moved to Pall Mall in 1825, and again in 1964 to its present site in the south-east corner of Regent’s Park, a building designed by Sir Denys Lasdun.

    ST ANTHONY’S HOSPITAL and FRENCH PROTESTANT CHURCH

    53 Threadneedle Street, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of the Hospital of St Anthony and the French Protestant church, which was demolished in 1840. Started by brothers from France, who received the building from Henry III in 1242, it was subsequently developed to include a chapel and grammar school. By the mid-sixteenth century the school had declined and the chapel became the French Protestant church. The buildings were destroyed in the Great Fire.

    ST BENET FINK

    1 Threadneedle Street, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of St Benet Fink, first recorded in 1216. It was repaired in 1633, destroyed in the Great Fire, and replaced in 1670–3 by a Wren church. It was demolished in 1844, to make way for the new Royal Exchange.

    ST BENET GRACECHURCH

    60 Gracechurch Street, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    This was the site of St Benet Gracechurch, first mentioned in 1181, repaired in 1630–3, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren in 1681–7. Declining congregations led to a union with All Hallows, Lombard Street, in 1864, and the disused church was demolished three years later. The site was sold for £24,000 and Mile End Road was built with the proceeds.

    ST BENET SHEREHOG

    Pancras Lane, EC4. Private/Corporation of the City of London

    The church was built in the early twelfth century in the centre of the City’s wool trading area and destroyed in the Great Fire. (A sherehog is a ram that has been castrated after its first shearing.) The parish was merged with St Stephen Walbrook in 1670.

    ST GABRIEL FENCHURCH

    Plantation House, Fenchurch Street, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    In the middle of the road here stood St Gabriel Fenchurch, first recorded in 1315, destroyed in the Great Fire. The parish merged with St Margaret Pattens in 1670.

    ST JOHN THE EVANGELIST, FRIDAY STREET

    1 Watling Street, EC4. Corporation of the City of London

    Dedicated in the mid-thirteenth century to St Werburga, a seventh-century abbess, it was known from the fourteenth century onwards as St John the Evangelist. It had the smallest parish in the city, measuring only four-fifths of an acre. It was repaired and improved in 1626, only to perish in the Great Fire. The churchyard survived until 1954, when it was covered by the extension to the Bank of England.

    ST JOHN ZACHARY

    Goldsmiths’ Garden, Gresham Street, EC2. Corporation of the City of London

    Originally called St John the Baptist, this church was given to a man named Zacharie in 1180 by the canons of St Paul’s. It was rebuilt several times before its eventual destruction in the Great Fire, after which the parish was united with St Anne and St Agnes, Gresham Street. Goldsmiths’ Garden is the original churchyard.

    ST KATHERINE COLEMAN

    St Katherine’s Row, Fenchurch Street, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    The first church on this site was of fourteenth-century origin with seventeenth-century alterations but by the 1730s it was almost buried in the surrounding ground that had risen around it. It was rebuilt by James Horne in 1739, very plainly, and by the late nineteenth century was home to a dwindling congregation and it was closed to worship for months at a time. It was demolished in 1926 and the parish merged with St Olave, Hart Street.

    ST LEONARD

    St Martin’s-le-Grand, EC1. Corporation of the City of London

    When recorded for the first edition of this book, this plaque was at 35 Foster Lane. After a massive office rebuild, it has been reinstated in St Martin’s-le-Grand. Dating from at least the thirteenth century, the church was destroyed in the Great Fire, but its ruins were not finally cleared away until the early nineteenth century.

    ST LEONARD, EASTCHEAP

    2a Eastcheap, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    Also sometimes referred to as St Leonard Milkchurch, probably in honour of a benefactor, Robert Melker, this church was first recorded in 1214. Burned out in 1618, it was repaired and enlarged, only to be burned down again in the Great Fire. This time it was not rebuilt and the parish was merged with St Benet Gracechurch. The churchyard was retained as a burial ground until 1882.

    ST MARGARET, FISH STREET HILL

    Monument Street, EC3. Corporation of the City of London

    Being the nearest church to Thomas Faryner’s bakery (see page 11), this was probably the first to be consumed in the Great Fire. The Monument stands on

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