Manual of Formulas - Recipes, Methods & Secret Processes

INTRODUCTION

WITHIN the following pages lies a wealth of information for the householder and the amateur experimenter. This entirely new compilation of formulas has been the result of an exhaustive research undertaken especially for POPULAR SCIENCE MONTHLY. The formulas and processes have been selected as most worthy for publication after a search through a veritable mountain of data, in the course of which thousands of formulas of less certain merit were discarded. Only those believed to be reliable and the ingredients for which are easy to obtain have been selected.

Since the Editor has striven here to include the greatest possible number of formulas of practical value, it has been manifestly impossible to test them all personally. They have been chosen, however, from the most authoritative sources available, and many were devised, tested, and recommended by U. S. Government scientists and industrial chemists of high standing. Available in this volume are many formulas and trade secrets never before published. Wherever possible, the actual formulas used in industry are given, revised as necessary to meet the requirements of home use.

Chemicals for use in compounding the formulas may be obtained from a number of chemical supply houses throughout the United States, many of which fill orders by mail. Often, however, the necessary ingredients for a formula may be obtained from your local drug store or hardware shop. It is advisable, for this purpose, to know other names under which a chemical may masquerade.

To illustrate this, one has only to go into a large paint or hardware store and demand copper sulphate. An inexperienced clerk probably will shake his head and say that the store does not carry it; but tell him that you mean ordinary bluestone and the chances are that he will smile and give it to you. Both names and also the term blue vitriol are used to designate the same chemical.

Many of the more common chemicals have at least two names under which they may be sold. This is, of course, confusing. If you ask for muriatic acid and receive hydrochloric acid in its place, you are likely to wonder if there isn’t some difference, but both names indicate the same acid. So, in the same way, do not be surprised if, when you ask for water glass, you receive a bottle or can labeled sodium silicate, or on asking for sodium silicate you receive a container labeled sodium silicate solution. If you know one designation for a chemical, you can look it up in an unabridged dictionary or in the table of synonyms at the back of this book and quickly learn any others.

Another important consideration is the price paid per pound. In the paint store you can probably get a pound of copper sulphate for twenty-five cents, whereas in a drug store you would have to pay at least twice as much for the same quantity. There is a good reason for this variation. The copper sulphate called blue-stone or blue vitriol in the paint store is an impure salt often contaminated with other chemicals. The chemical sold in a drug store, however, will be absolutely pure.

Often the cheaper type of salt, designated by the term technical, will be found to answer the purpose just as well as the pure and more expensive kind. Whenever pure chemicals are required, those known and marked C. P. (chemically pure) or U. S. P. (United States Pharmacopoeia) should be used. For this purpose never use those marked technical or tech., as it is usually abbreviated. If in doubt, use the purer grade.

It is wise to buy small quantities of expensive chemicals and larger quantities of cheaper chemicals. It is costly to purchase cheap chemicals in small amounts. Take copper sulphate, a pound of which in the technical grade may cost about a quarter. If you require only an ounce, it may cost you ten or fifteen cents. It will obviously be wiser to buy a full pound, especially as this chemical has many uses and is easily stored.

MANUAL OF FORMULAS

ADHESIVES

How to Make Glue

The following glue formulas, with directions for mixing, were developed at the Forest Products Laboratory by the laboratory personnel and are available for the free use of the people of the United States and are taken from U. S. Dept. Agr., Department Bulletin #1500.

The 220 to 230 parts of water added to the casein is approximately the right amount to use with Argentine (naturally soured) casein; but if a different casein is used the water requirement will lie somewhere between 150 and 250 parts by weight. The correct amount for different caseins must be determined by trial.

The formula presupposes that a high calcium lime will be used. A lime of lower grade may be used, but a proportionately larger amount of it will be needed, or the water resistance of the glue will be sacrificed. It is suggested that for the first trial the user try 25 parts of lime. If this does not give good results the amount can be varied within the limits specified.

The density of the silicate of soda used should be about 40° Baumé, with a silica-soda ratio of from 3 to 3.25.

Copper sulphate can be substituted for copper chloride.

Place the casein and water in the bowl of the mixing machine and rotate the paddle slowly, stirring the mixture until all the water has been absorbed and all the casein moistened. If the casein is allowed to soak beforehand it is more readily dissolved in the mixing process. Mix the hydrated lime with water in a separate container. Stir this mixture vigorously at first, but just before it is added to the casein stir just enough with a gentle rotary motion to keep the lime in suspension. Pour the milk of lime quickly into the casein.

When casein and lime are first combined they form large, slimy lumps, which are balls of dry casein coated with partly dissolved casein. These break up rapidly, becoming smaller and smaller, and finally disappear. The solution, in the meantime, is becoming thin and fluid. At this point stop the paddle and scrape the sides and bottom of the container, and then stir again. If a deposit of casein remains unacted on, it may cause more lumps later.

When about two minutes have elapsed since the lime and casein were united, it may be noticed that the glue has begun to thicken a little. Add the sodium silicate now, or else the glue will become too thick. The glue will momentarily become even thicker, but this thickness will soon change to a smooth and fluid consistency.

Continue the stirring until the glue is free from lumps. This should not take more than 15 or 20 minutes from the time the lime was added. If the glue is a little too thick, add a small amount of water. If the glue is too thin, it will be necessary to start over again, using a smaller proportion of water.

The copper salt may be added at any one of several times during the mixing process. If added as a powder before the casein is soaked, it may have a corrosive action upon the metal container. The copper salt, if added as a powder, should be thoroughly mixed with the casein before the addition of the lime. Copper salt may be placed in solution and conveniently stirred into the moistened casein immediately before the lime is added or after all the other ingredients have been combined. If the copper solution is added at the end of the mixing period, pour it into the glue in a thin stream and stir the mixture vigorously. Continue stirring until any lumps, which may have formed by the coagulation of the glue and the copper solution, are broken up and until a smooth violet-colored glue is obtained.

Glue prepared by formula No. 1 has proved to be exceptionally strong and durable, even under wet or damp conditions.

Bring the casein and water together according to the directions for mixing glue prepared by formula No. 1. Dissolve the caustic soda in water in a separate container, and while the mixing paddle is revolving sprinkle the caustic-soda solution into the damp casein. Stir slowly until a thin, smooth glue has been obtained. The consistency of the finished product may be altered by adding more casein if it is too thin, or by adding water if it is too thick. Silicate of soda is sometimes added to thicken or to reduce the cost of the glue per unit of volume. This glue has exceptional strength when dry, but when exposed to moisture it weakens as rapidly as animal or vegetable glue.

Pour the larger amount of water over the blood albumin and allow the mixture to stand undisturbed for an hour or two. Stir the soaked albumin until it is in solution and then add the ammonia while the mixture is being stirred slowly. Slow stirring is necessary to prevent foamy glue. Combine the smaller amount of water and the hydrated lime to form milk of lime. Add the milk of lime, and continue to agitate the mixture for a few minutes. Care should be exercised in the use of the lime, inasmuch as a small excess will cause the mixture to thicken and become a jellylike mass. The glue should be of moderate consistency when mixed and should remain suitable for use for several hours. The exact proportions of albumin and water may be varied as required to produce a glue of greater or less consistency or to suit an albumin of different solubility from that specified.

The blood albumin is covered with the water and the mixture is allowed to stand for an hour or two, then stirred slowly. The ammonium hydroxide is next added with more stirring. Then the paraformaldehyde is sifted in, and the mixture is stirred constantly at a fairly high speed. Paraformaldehyde should not be poured in so rapidly as to form lumps nor so slowly that the mixture will thicken and coagulate before the required amount has been added.

The mixture thickens considerably and usually reaches a consistency where stirring is difficult or impossible. However, the thickened mass will become fluid again in a short time at ordinary temperatures and will return to a good working consistency in about an hour. It will remain in this condition for 6 or 8 hours, but when the liquid finally sets and dries, as in a glue joint, it forms a hard and insoluble film.

This glue may be used in either hot or cold presses. When cold pressed, however, it has only moderate strength, and for that reason is not to be depended upon in aircraft construction where maximum strength is required. If hot pressed, it is high in strength and very water resistant.

Preparing Glutin Glue

Place a handful of flour in a piece of muslin and wash it with water, kneading the flour until the wash water is no longer milky from the starch. Glutin remains and should be placed on a glass dish to dry. To use, take a small flake, add a drop or two of water, and allow it to stand 5 or 10 minutes. Knead it until it is soft and then apply.

Yellow Glue

Glue chips are soaked several hours in water, after which the water is poured off and replaced by glacial (strong) acetic acid. The container should be placed in warm water and the glue stirred. If the glue is not to be used for veneering or sticking paper together, finely powdered calcium chloride can be stirred into it, using enough to keep the glue still plastic.

Thin Shellac Solution

A glue of rather thin consistency, having shellac for a base, is made by dissolving an ounce of borax in a pint of very hot water, and then stirring in two ounces of flake shellac until thorough solution is had. It is best to grind the shellac with a small amount of the borax water in a mortar, then add the remainder of the solution a little at a time.

Miscellaneous Glues

#1—Mix a handful of calcium oxide with 4 oz. of linseed oil; thoroughly lixiviate the mixture; boil it to a good thickness, and spread it on tin plates until cool. It will become very hard, but can be dissolved over a fire, like common glue, and is then fit for use.

Heat until calcium chloride is dissolved, then add any good grade of flake or ground glue, 11½ lb. Let soak for about two hours, then add ten gallons water. Boil and stir until thoroughly mixed. Then when cool, bottle. It should be kept bottled when not in use. If put up in bottles to sell about one-half liquid ounce of oil of sassafras should be placed in each gallon of glue. It keeps the glue from becoming moldy.

#3—Glue, cut in small pieces, 3 parts, water 8 parts; let stand for several hours; then add hydrochloric acid ¾ part and sulphate zinc 1 part; expose the whole to a temperature of 178° to 192° F. during a period of 10 or 12 hours.

#4—Take the best glue; pour on water to cover; soak over night; melt over a gentle heat, and add fine plaster of Paris or white lead: mix well, and add a little acetic acid, carbolic acid or any ethereal oil to prevent putrefaction; adapted for flexible objects like leather; will not withstand boiling water.

#5—Take of best white glue 16 oz., white lead, dry, 4 oz., rain water 2 pints, alcohol 4 oz., with constant stirring dissolve the glue and lead in the water by means of a water bath; add the alcohol and continue the heat for a few minutes. Lastly pour into bottles while it is still hot.

#6—(A) A hot solution of 50 parts of glue in 60 parts of a 20-per-cent aqueous calcium-chloride solution. (B) A solution of 50 parts of glue in 60 parts of acetic acid. (C) Soak gelatin in acetic acid of 70 per cent until it swells up, then rub it up, adding a little water during the process.

#7—One pound fine isinglass and 1 pint rain water; boil and prepare an ordinary glue, then add slowly stirring continually, 2 oz. nitric acid; bottle, and it is fit for use. It will permanently adhere to wood, leather, paper, and everything else.

#8—Take gum arabic, 100 parts; starch, 75 parts, sugar, 21 parts. Dissolve the gum arabic in a little water; also dissolve the starch in a little water. Mix and add the sugar. Boil on the water bath until a paste is formed of desired consistency.

#9—(A) Gum arabic 5 parts, sugar 3 parts, starch 2 parts; add very little water; boil, stirring until thick and white. (B) Glue, dissolved in water to the thickness of molasses; add a thickening of flour and water while the glue is boiling until about as thick as clear starch; apply to the moss or lichen, and to the surface to which it is to be attached.

Glue in Stick Form

Glue chips, about ½ pound, are soaked for several days in water. The water is then poured off and the glue melted over a moderate fire. To 1 pound of glue add ½ pound of sugar, mix thoroughly, and then pour the mass into suitable molds and allow it to stand for several days. In using the glue it is moistened with the tongue. Wrap the glue with waxed paper when removed from molds.

Waterproof Glue

The thick glue solution is made as above, omitting the sugar. Heat the whole for 15 minutes and use while hot.

Transparent Mucilage

The water should be boiling. Make dextrine into a paste and stir until all is dissolved, after which add about ½ teaspoonful of oil of sassafras, then bottle. Eight oz. gum arabic can be substituted in place of the dextrine. This makes a wonderful mucilage and will stick to metal and wood as well as paper. To make thick mucilage add 4 oz. more of dextrine.

Heat the whole to about 100° F., with stirring, until the mass becomes silky and white.

Ordinary Mucilage

Dissolve the dextrine in the water by boiling, strain and add the acetic acid and let cool, then add 4 oz. alcohol. Denatured alcohol can be used.

Bottle Label Paste

Melt, apply to label and affix to bottle.

Celluloid

Apply warm.

Use this as a solvent. Clamp, and let dry.

Paste with Glue

Soak the glue in boiling water, mix the starch with small quantity of water and then gradually pour into the glue solution, stirring until thick, heating the while.

Bill Poster’s Paste

Mix using hot water.

Warm Water Paste

Mix. Add water to the consistency desired. Heat gently and allow to cool.

Mix and boil for a few minutes, stirring to prevent burning, or use a double boiler.

Strong Mucilage

Heat the glue in the water until dissolved; add the sugar. Use more or less water according to thickness desired. Add soda benzoate, about oz., to preserve.

This makes a light colored mucilage.

Add a preservative.

Oil of cloves, enough to give odor.

Preserve with oil of wintergreen, oil of cloves, sodium benzoate or salicylic acid.

#7—Dextrine, 10 dr.; glucose, ½ dr.; in which is dissolved a solution of alum, 15 gr.; glycerin, 1 dr.; water, to make 2 oz.

Dissolve the dextrine in 1 pt. of boiling water, strain through flannel; add the acetic acid, and when nearly cold add the alcohol, stirring thoroughly, then add rest of water.

Mucilage in Stick Form

The glue sticks produced as follows are moistened and the wet surface applied to the paper to be united.

Mix the glue and gum, then stir in enough cold water to make the solution the consistency of thick syrup. Soak overnight to allow the glue and gum to absorb the water, then add enough water to again bring it to a thick syrup. Pour into a flat bottom pan that has been chilled and cut into sticks of desired size when almost solid. If poured into molds the molds should first be well greased and then chilled by setting upon cracked ice.

Mix as above, soaking the glue in water.

Commercial Mucilage

Dissolve ½ pound white glue in equal parts water and vinegar, and add ¼ as much alcohol and ½ oz. alum dissolved in a small amount of water. Soak the glue in cold water until it swells and softens. Pour off the water, then melt the glue to a thick paste in hot water, and add the vinegar, which should be hot. When cool add the alcohol and alum solution.

Transparent Glue for Glass

Soak the gelatin in the water for twelve hours or so, then heat the softened gelatin and water until the gelatin has dissolved, and then add the acetic acid. Water is then added until about a pint of glue is obtained. It is useful in cementing glass sheets together, or where a transparent mucilage or cement is desired. It is also useful in mounting photographs on glass, the adhesive being applied to the face of the photograph, which is then pressed against the underside of the glass. A roller is used to squeeze out the surplus cement. The glass surrounding the photo is washed with warm water, before the excess cement dries.

Glue for Celluloid

Dissolve all by allowing to stand in a corked bottle in a warm place. Owing to the shellac, which imparts a slight color to the glue, it is not used on light colored celluloid objects. This glue, however, is useful in securing paper, leather, or metal to celluloid. Bleached shellac, if used, will make the product more nearly transparent. The alcohol used should be about 96% by volume.

Celluloid can be mended by moistening the broken edges with glacial acetic acid, allowing the acid to soften the celluloid by remaining in place for a short time, and then pressing the two parts together, and allowing to dry. Glacial acetic acid should not be confused with weak solutions of acetic acid. The glacial acetic acid contains little water, and will become a solid at low temperatures.

Library Paste

Dissolve the boracic acid in the water, and then beat into the dextrine, using a little at a time. Use a double boiler and heat the dextrine-boracic acid water mass until creaminess sets in. Stir from time to time. Add about 10 cc. of glycerin and incorporate thoroughly. The paste is now ready for use, although as it will sour despite the presence of boracic acid, it is better to add about one or two grams of sodium benzoate or salicylic acid. It can be perfumed with methyl salicylate. High temperatures are avoided if a double boiler is used, thus escaping the risk of having the paste turn yellow when finished.

After weighing out the above, add enough water to produce a thin paste, then transfer to a double boiler and add more water until very thin and cook until it thickens and reaches the proper consistency. The whole must be stirred while heating. Preserve with salicylic acid, oil of cloves, formaldehyde or carbolic acid.

Treat as in previous preparation.

#4—Heat 2 parts of dextrine, 5 parts of water, 1 part of acetic acid, 1 part of alcohol together, with stirring until the whole becomes pearly and of the proper consistency.

Dissolve all ingredients in the water, except the oil of cloves, stir and heat to boiling point, continue the boiling until dissolved and then add the oil of cloves.

Mix starch and water, add the gelatin and heat gently over water bath until it thickens.

Mix the dextrine, alum, and sodium benzoate with a portion of water, rub to a smooth paste, add the syrup and balance of water and heat on water bath, stirring until it becomes pearly.

Common Paste

Dissolve one part gum arabic in 8 parts of water, warming to dissolve. Add 4 parts of sugar, one of corn starch, and boil to desired thickness. Add a pinch of boracic acid to keep it from becoming mildewed.

Simple Paste

#1—White dextrine, 1 lb.; water, enough to make a stiff paste; and add 1 oz. salicylic acid or benzoate of soda, after heating.

To each pound of this powder add 4 pints of hot water and half a pound of glycerin and stir well until dissolved, heating to facilitate mixing.

Grind in a mortar, boil, and while hot, strain. Preserve with pinch of sodium benzoate or salicylic acid.

Thick Paste

#1—Heat the following to desired consistency:

Stir flour and water together, mixing thoroughly, and add the other ingredients. Heat, adding the nitric acid a drop at a time, followed by vigorous stirring. Remove from fire When desired plasticity is produced.

Dissolve the acid in the water, then the glucose. Beat in the dextrine and flour and heat in a double boiler. Add oil of sassafras to perfume.

Paste for Labels

To affix labels on metal containers:

#1—Dissolve sheet gelatin in glacial acetic acid, using a very low flame.

Flour-rosin Paste

Boil 4 lb. of rye flour in 2 gal. of water. Dissolve 3 oz. of rosin in alcohol, using heat if necessary, and limit the alcohol to about 6 oz. or less. Stir the rosin solution into the flour paste, and continue to heat while stirring, thoroughly to incorporate the rosin in the mixture. Remove from fire and, as the mixture slowly cools, add some perfume material such as oil of sassafras, beating the oil in.

Wall Paper Paste

Make flour and water into a batter free from lumps; then pour into boiling water. Boil if necessary, and while hot stir in the pulverized rosin a little at a time. This paste is exceedingly strong, and will stick heavy wall paper or thin leather. If the paste be too thick, thin with a little hot water.

Envelope Mucilage

Water, sufficient to produce the desired consistency.

The gum arabic is first dissolved in water, the sugar added, then the starch, breaking up all lumps, after which the mixture is boiled for a few minutes in order to dissolve the starch, after which it is thinned down to the desired consistency with more water.

Mounting Paste

The dextrine and the gum, which should be pulverized, are dissolved in the water, and then the salicylic acid added and dissolved. This liquid is heated with the dextrine, and when the whole has become pasty, which should require a quarter of an hour, the acetic acid is added, stirring in slowly. The heating is continued, taking care not to boil the mass. The paste will soon become pearly, and should then be removed from the fire and the perfume oils added while it is cooling. It should be stirred thoroughly while the oils are being added.

Some manufacturers of pastes, such as this, ripen the product by allowing it to age in a cool place for several weeks, but if the paste is to be used continuously after making, this can be omitted. If the paste is too thick, water, or glycerin, or both, can be added to thin it. The glycerin, if added, will also keep the paste moist, by abstracting water from the air.

Paste for Leather

Four parts by weight of glue are allowed to soften in 15 parts of cold water for some hours, and then gently heated until the solution becomes clear. Sixty-five parts of water are now added, with constant stirring. In another vessel 30 parts of starch are stirred in 20 of cold water, so that a thin milky fluid is obtained without lumps. Into this the boiling solution of glue is poured, with constant stirring, and the whole kept boiling. Cool and add 10 drops of carbolic acid. This paste is of extraordinary adhesive power, and may be used for leather, paper, or card-board.

ART AND DECORATION

Etching on Metal

In etching, the metal plate is covered with a ground, or protective wax or pitch coating, the desired design scratched through this and the whole plate immersed or covered with the etching fluid. If only one side of the plate is to be etched, the ground or protective wax can be applied, using heat to melt it, and when cold, building up a dam about the plate to retain the etching mixture which is then poured in the tray of wax thus formed. In all cases it is best to heat the surface of the plate as well as the wax in applying, as this will tend to drive off the adsorbed air and moisture which is always present on a metal surface. After etching, the ground is removed by heating, and then the small amount remaining is removed by appropriate solvents such as gasoline, benzol, toluene, carbon tetrachloride, or alcohol. The grounds used for etching are:

The whole is melted over a low fire and when cold thinned with turpentine, about 500 parts of which will be required.

Another ground:

A simple liquid ground is asphaltum varnish. This can be made by dissolving asphaltum in gasoline or benzene.

The following resists strong etching acids quite well:

Etching Upon Steel

In etching metals the usual procedure is to clean the surface and then apply a thin film of wax. This is best done by warming the metal and brushing on a thin film of melted wax, allowing the surplus wax to run off. When cold, scribe or write through the wax the desired data. The object is then placed in one of the following acid etching baths, or if the object to be etched is flat, the bath can be applied to the wax, covering the scribed portions. Care should be taken not to allow the chemical etching solution to run onto the uncoated or unprotected metal surface as it will, of course, act upon this.

When these two are well mixed the result is called aqua regia and will attack gold as well as the common metals. This acid mixture may be used or a mixture of varying proportions of each can be taken.

Digest until the iron is dissolved. This is a good but rather expensive etching fluid.

#2—Dissolve in 150 parts of vinegar, sulphate of copper, 30 parts; alum, 8 parts; salt, 11 parts. Add a few drops of nitric acid. According to whether this is allowed to act a longer or shorter time, the steel may be engraved upon deeply or the surface may be given a frosted appearance.

Mix with ½ pt. of vinegar and 40 drops of nitric acid. This can also be used to give steel a frosted surface.

This can be used for fine lines upon polished steel.

Etching on Copper

Wash the plate with dilute nitric acid. Then apply the solution for 3 minutes, and wash with alcohol. Repeat if necessary.

Mix together. The sulphuric acid should be poured carefully into the nitric acid, not the reverse.

Etching on Brass

#1—Nitric acid, 8 parts; mixed with water, 80 parts; into this mixture pour a solution of potassium chlorate, 3 parts, in water, 50 parts.

#2—A mixture of fuming nitric acid and concentrated nitric acid will eat brass or copper violently and can be used to make holes in thin sheets of these metals. Do not inhale the brown fumes produced.

Coloring Glassware

Vases, bottles, bulbs, test tubes, and other glassware intended for novelty purposes can be frosted with the aid of sodium silicate solution (water-glass). At the same time, they may be tinted any desired color by adding water soluble dye to the sodium silicate. Since this viscid liquid, which sticks so firmly to glass, is inexpensive, a sufficient quantity may be used to allow the glassware to be dipped bodily. If desired, just the lower part or one side of the glassware may be treated, depending upon the intended effect. After being dipped, the glass should be immersed in a concentrated and boiling hot solution of epsom salts or of ammonium chloride, preferably the latter.

Painting on Porcelain

Brianchon’s process consists of melting

When these are thoroughly incorporated together, add 40 parts of oil of lavender and stir until mixed. Remove from the source of heat and then add 35 parts of oil of lavender, when the flux is ready for use. The salts and oxides of antimony, chromium, cobalt, copper, iron, silver, uranium, zinc, etc., are used as coloring substances. Gold produces iridescent colors. The desired mix is painted on and fired.

Heat until decomposed. Wash soluble material out and use the regulus, mixing it with 2½ times its weight of lead glass #1.

Green: Heat mercury chromate until chromium oxide is formed and mix with 3 parts of lead glass #1.

Gold (Gilding)

#1—Powdered gold is mixed with borax and gum-water, and the solution applied with a camel’s-hair pencil. Heat is then applied until the borax fuses, which fixes the gold.

#2—Gold, 6 parts; aqua regia, 36 parts. Dissolve, then add tin, 1 part; next add sulphur, 3 parts; oil of turpentine, 1 part. Mix and rub until the mixture becomes hard; then add oil of turpentine, 4