Manufacture of Narrow Woven Fabrics - Ribbons, Trimmings, Edgings, Etc. - Giving Description of the Various Yarns Used, the Construction of Weaves and Novelties in Fabrics Structures, also Desriptive Matter as to Looms, Etc.

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VARIOUS YARNS USED.

With reference to the yarns used by the industry, the same covers every possible source: Cotton, Silk, Spun or Chappe Silk, Artificial Silk, Worsted, Wool, Linen, Ramie; Metal-threads, Rubber-strands, Glass, Straw and Feathers; also partly made fabrics like Chenille, Tassels, Cords, Beads, etc.

Cotton Yarns.

On account of their low cost compared to the other yarns, they form the bulk of the yarn used in the manufacture of narrow ware. The quality of the yarn depends upon where the cotton is grown.

Sea Island is the best grade of cotton in the world; such as raised on its respective islands off the coast of South Carolina and Georgia, or directly on the coast, having a staple of from 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 inches. The fibre closely resembles silk, being extremely fine, strong and clean, permitting it to be spun readily into 150’s and, if the case should require, up to 400’s for ply yarn. Such of this cotton as grown further away from the coast in Georgia and South Carolina averages from 1 1/2 to 2 inches in length of staple and closely resembles the actual Sea Island cotton, from which it is grown, permitting, if required, its spinning into 150’s and up to 200’s for ply yarn.

Florida Sea Island Cotton is grown on the mainland of Florida from Sea Island seed. It has a white, glossy, strong fibre, a little coarser than strict Sea Island, from 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 inches in length, and is not as carefully handled during cultivation. It is suited for lower grades of Sea Island yarns spun up to 150’s and 200’s for ply.

Sea Island cottons are always combed and extensively used for thread and lace making purposes; again, if dealing with special fabrics, where a very strong fibre is required in connection with heavy counts of yarns, Sea Island cotton is sometimes used.

Although the Sea Island is American cotton, yet this name is never used in connection with it; the name American meaning the typical cotton of the world grown in what is considered the mainland cotton belt; of these the Gulf (or New Orleans), Benders or Bottom Land varieties are the most important, varying as to length of staple from 1 to 1 5/8 inches, permitting spinning up to 80’s yarn. Cottons brought in the market as Mobile, Peelers and Allan Seed, belong to the same variety and are next in importance, while Mississippi, Louisiana, Selma, Arkansas and Memphis cottons, also belonging to this variety, are slightly inferior. Texas cotton varies from 7/8 to 1 inch in length of staple, and is suited for yarns up to 40’s. Next in importance are the Uplands cotton, having a length of staple of from 3/4 to 1 inch, permitting spinning into 30’s to 40’s yarn.

Egyptian Cotton stands high in the estimation of the commercial world, the success of growing being largely due to the equability of the climate in the delta of the Nile. Of the different varieties grown there, Brown Egyptian is the best known, permitting ready combing on account of its regularities of staple. The color itself varies from dark cream to a brown tint, according to soil in which it is grown. The length of its fibre varies from 1 1/8 to 1 1/2 inches and is spun up to 100’s yarn.

Cotton is also raised in other countries, but such does not come into consideration.

Cotton Yarns have for their standard 840 yards (equal to 1 hank) and are graded by the number of hanks 1 lb. contains. Consequently if 2 hanks, or 2 × 840 yards = 1680 yards are necessary to balance 1 lb. we classify the same as number 2 cotton yarn. If 3 hanks or 3 × 840, or 2520 yards are necessary to balance 1 lb., the thread is known as number 3 cotton yarn. Continuing in this manner, always adding 840 for each successive number gives the yards the various counts or numbers of cotton yarn contain for 1 lb.

Cotton Yarns are frequently manufactured into 2-ply. In such cases the number of yards required for 1 lb. is one-half the amount called for in the single thread.

Example: 20’s cotton yarn (single) equals 16,800 yards per pound, while a 2-ply thread of 20’s cotton, technically indicated as 2/20’s cotton, requires only 8400 yards, or equal to the amount called for in single 10’s cotton (technically represented as 10’s cotton).

If the yarn be more than 2-ply, divide the number of the single yarn in the required counts by the number of ply, and the result will be the equivalent counts in a single thread.

Example: Three-ply 60’s, or 3/60’s cotton yarn, equals in size (60 ÷ 3 =) single 20’s cotton yarn.

In the manufacture of fancy yarns the compound thread is often composed of two or more minor threads of unequal counts.

If the compound thread is composed of two minor threads of unequal counts, divide the product of the counts of the minor threads by their sum.

Example: Find the equal in single yarn to a. twofold thread composed of single 40’s and 60’s.

40 × 60 = 2400 ÷ 100 (40 + 60) = 24 Ans.

If the compound thread is composed of three minor threads of unequal counts, compound any two of the minor threads into one, and apply the previous rule to this compound thread and the third minor thread not previously used, or: Divide one of the counts by itself, and by the others in succession, and afterwards by the sum of the quotients.

Example: Find equal counts in a single thread to a 3-ply yarn composed of 60’s, 20’s, and 15’s.

Silk Yarns.

Silk is the simplest, and in its properties the highest and most perfect of all spinning materials. It differs from the other textile fibres, both as to its nature as well as the machinery used in preparing it for the loom, the machinery used being much simpler and less cumbersome than the processes employed in preparing other fibres.

It is the hardened, structureless secretion produced, in the form of thread by silk worms as a suitable covering, at the time of entering the chrysalis stage.

Silk is of two varieties: a True Silk, b Wild Silk.

TRUE, CULTIVATED OR MULBERRY SILK is the thread produced by the larva of the silk moths Bombyx mori.

WILD SILK is the product of one of the species of wild silk moths, found principally in India, China and Japan, and of which Tussah is the most important variety. It is somewhat stiff if compared to cultivated silk.

Silk yarns are graded as to their count either by the denier or the dram system, the first being generally used as applying to raw silk, the other to indicate the size of thrown silk.

Denier System: The length of skein adopted for basis is 450 meters and the unit of weight 1/2 decigram; thus the count is expressed by the number of 1/2 decigrams that 450 meters silk weigh.

450 meters = 492.12 yards.

1 lb. = 453.6 grams.

1 gram = 20 deniers.

1 lb. = 9072 deniers.

1 denier = 492.12 yards.

9072 deniers = 4,464,513 yards.

Dram System: The length of the skein adopted for basis is 1000 yards and the unit of weight 1 dram, which equals 256,000 yards per lb. The count is expressed by the number of drams (and fractions of drams) that 1000 yards weigh.

Deniers: Drams.

4,464,513 yards to 1 lb. in denier system

256,000 yards to 1 1b in dram system

Dividing the first number by the last number gives us 17.44 deniers equal to 1 dram.

Cocoon Basis for Count: When dealing only with a short length of yarn, for example, a few inches of silk taken from a fabric sample and of which we have to ascertain the count, but which sample is too small, even for the most delicate pair of scales, we then must resort to practical experience, taking the original reeling of cocoons in the raw silk thread into consideration. It is usually assumed that the average of a true silk filament is about 3 deniers, hence by untwisting your thread, liberating the cocoon filaments and counting them under a magnifying glass, you then will obtain a fair idea as to the count of the yarn in question, taking into consideration that the thickness of a filament often differs materially throughout its length and that the reeler for this reason may have found it desirable to increase or decrease the number of filaments.

The usual method observed is to reel five cocoons into 13/15 denier silk.

The usual sizes into which true silk is reeled is 10/12, 12/14, 13/15, 14/16 and 16/18; finer or coarser counts may be reeled, but if so it is a rare occurrence.

The filament of the tussah wild silk is heavier, an eight cocoon tussah averaging 35/40 deniers.

The count or size of a silk yarn is always given for their gum weight, i. e., the condition before boiling-off and where silk loses from 2 to 28 per cent. in its weight, according to the amount of gum, i. e., sericin has to be removed from the threads, the first being known as Ecru Silk (2 to 5%), the other as Soft Silk (up to 28%). When from 5 to 12% of the gum is removed, such silk is then known by the trade as Souple Silk.

DOPPIONE SILK is coarse and uneven, and as a rule, of a light yellow color. This silk is reeled from double cocoons, i. e., where the worms have spun their cocoons side by side, and so joined that it is necessary to reel the cocoons together, the end of neither cocoon being free without the other. The production is comparatively small, and its unevenness makes it unsuitable for a good class of work; hence its use is confined to the manufacturing of the cheapest materials where heavy counts of yarns are used.

Spun or Chappe Silks.

The product known as spun, chappe, or filoselle silk is obtained from the following classes of silk waste: (1) The coarse, loose, outer layers surrounding the true cocoon; (2) the cocoons that are defective or from which the moth has escaped, and which are therefore difficult or impossible to wind; also doubled cocoons and those from diseased larvæ (choquettes); and (3) the parchment-like skin (strusa) left behind on winding the sound cocoons.

By means of a troublesome spinning process these waste products are converted into coarse inferior yarns, the sericine being first destroyed by maceration, and the mass then washed successively with hot and cold water. Wheri dry, the purified material is separated into fibres, more or less short, and finally converted into yarn by combing, roving, and fine spinning.

Spun silks are calculated as to the size of the thread, on the same basis as cotton (840 yards to 1 hank), the number of hanks one pound requires indicating the counts. In the calculation of cotton, woolen or worsted, double and twist yarn, the custom is to consider it as twice as heavy as single; thus double and twisted 40’s (technically 2/40’s) cotton, equals single 20’s cotton for calculations. In the calculation of spun silk the single yarn equals the two-fold; thus single 40’s and two-fold 40’s require the same number of hanks (40 hanks equal 33,600 yards). The technical indication of two-fold in spun silk is also correspondingly reversed if compared to cotton, wool and worsted yarn. In cotton, wool and worsted yarn the 2, indicating the two-fold, is put in front of the counts indicating the size of the thread (2/40’s), while in indicating spun silk this point is reversed (40/2’s), or in present example single 80’s doubled to 40’s.

A lower grade of spun silk is known as BOURETTE SILK, which is obtained from working up combings (stumba) of spun silk and the product naturally occupies the lowest position among silk yarns. It is graded the same as spun silk.

Artificial Silks.

There are three class of artifical silk met with:

(a) COLLODION SILK also known as Chardonnet silk, named after its inventor, it being the first artificial silk brought in the market.

(b) CUPRAMMONIUM SILK, also known as Pauly, Linkmayer, and more often as Thiele silk.

(c) VISCOSE SILK, also known as Cross & Bevan, and Stearn silk.

The characteristic properties of natural silk, which render it so much esteemed as a textile material, are its beautiful lustre, softness, elasticity, strength, and, covering power, and the ease with which it can be dyed. With regard to lustre, the artificial silks exceed the natural fibre, some having almost an undesirable metallic lustre. In softness and general handle, most varieties of artificial silk are somewhat deficient; but this defect has recently been entirely overcome by building up the thread of a large number of fine filaments, so that a thread of 40 denier may contain 40 to 80 of such filaments. All the artificial silks are, however, somewhat difficult to manipulate in winding and in the loom.

The numbering of these artificial silk yarns is done on the same basis as true silk calculated by the legal denier (which is 450 meters = 0.05 grams) i. e., 9,000 meters = 1 gram.

Worsted Yarns.

Worsted yarns have for their standard measure 560 yards to the hank. The number of hanks that balance one pound indicate the number or the count by which it is graded. Hence if 40 hanks each 560 yards long, weigh 1 lb. such a yarn is known as 40’s worsted. If 48 hanks are required to balance 1 lb. it is known as 48’s worsted. In this manner the number of yards for any size or count of worsted yarns is found by simply multiplying the number or count by 560.

Worsted yarns are frequently manufactured into 2-ply. In such cases the number of yards required for 1 lb. is one half the amount called for in the single thread.

Example: 32’s worsted yarn (single) equals 17,920 yards per pound, while a 2-ply thread of 32’s worsted, technically indicated as 2/32:s worsted, requires only 8,960 yards, or the same amount called for in 16’s worsted.

If the yarn be more than 2-ply, divide the number of the single yarn in the required counts by the number of ply.

Example: Three-ply 90’s, or 3/90’s worsted yarn equals in size (90 ÷ 3 =) single 30’s worsted yarn.

If dealing with compound threads, composed of minor threads of unequal counts, explanations given before in connection with cotton yarns refer also to worsted yarns.

Woolen Yarns.

(a) RUN SYSTEM.

Woolen yarns are with the exception of the mills in Philadelphia and vicinity, and parts of the West, graded by runs which have for their standard 1600 yards. Consequently 1 run yarn requires 1600 yards to 1 lb., 2 run yarn 3200 yards to 1 lb., etc., always adding 1600 yards for each successive run. In addition to using whole numbers only, as in the case of cotton and worsted yarn, the run is divided into halves, quarters, and occasionally into eighths, hence: 200 yards equal 1/8 run; 400 yards equal 1/4 run, and so on.

The run basis is very convenient for textile calculations by reason of the standard number equaling 100 times the number of ounces that 1 lb. contains; thus by simply multiplying the size of the yarn given in run counts by 100, and dividing