Paul Hollywood's Bread
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About this ebook
The book has six chapters, each with five bread recipes - plus the spin-off recipes for main courses. Not only are Paul's recipes delicious but they are also foolproof, with comprehensive step-by-step photographs. Try your hand at a basic white bloomer, which can become a savoury picnic loaf; stilton and bacon rolls, which are excellent served with celery soup; fluffy crumpets, which become the base for eggs Benedict; flatbreads, which are a natural pairing with chickpea masala; ciabatta, which the Italians have traditionally used as a base for tomatoey panzanella; pizza bases, which can become home-made fig, Parma ham and Gorgonzola pizzas; or white chocolate and raspberry bread, which makes for the best summer pudding you've ever tasted.
Tying in with the BBC2 television series, Paul Hollywood's Bread is all that you could want from a book and more. Get baking!
Paul Hollywood
The son of a baker, Paul Hollywood has shot to fame with his role as a judge on The Great British Bake Off. He worked as Head Baker at exclusive hotels including Cliveden and the Dorchester and he went on to launch The Paul Hollywood Artisan Bread Company, which now supplies Waitrose among others. www.paulhollywood.com / @hollywoodbaker
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Book preview
Paul Hollywood's Bread - Paul Hollywood
INTRODUCTION
EQUIPMENT
INGREDIENTS
TECHNIQUES
CLASSIC BREADS
BLOOMER
Grilled vegetable picnic loaf
RYE, ALE AND OAT BREAD
Kent plum and apple chutney
STILTON AND BACON ROLLS
Celery soup
RYE AND SPELT BREAD
Pork, chicken and pistachio pâté
TRENCHER BREAD
Trencher with garlic and pink peppercorn lamb
MALT LOAF
Marmalade and malt loaf pudding
SODA BREADS
SODA BREAD
Irish rarebit
STOUT BREAD
Smoked salmon pâté
CRUMPETS
Eggs Benedict
CHEDDAR AND ROSEMARY SCONES
Beef cobbler
SOFT TREACLE PARKIN
Parkin crumble
FLATBREADS
PITTA BREADS
Souvlaki and Cypriot salad
CURRIED NAAN WITH SULTANAS
Chickpea curry
MANEESH
Baba ganoush
WRAPS
Vegetable masala
CORN TORTILLAS
Tortilla tower
CONTINENTAL BREADS
MINI BAGUETTES
Caramelised garlic baguettes with mozzarella
Baguettes with flavoured butter and mozzarella
CIABATTA
Panzanella
PIZZA BASE
Parma ham, fig and Gorgonzola pizza
Tartiflette pizza
PAIN DE SAVOIE
Fondue
A TRIO OF BISCOTTI
Biscotti with hot mocha dipping sauce
SOURDOUGH
SOURDOUGH STARTER
CLASSIC SOURDOUGH
Breakfast ham and eggs with grilled tomato
BASIL AND CORIANDER SOURDOUGH
Roasted tomato and fennel soup
OLIVE SOURDOUGH FOUGASSE
Tuna niçoise
WHITE CHOCOLATE AND RASPBERRY BREAD
Summer pudding with white chocolate cream
ENRICHED BREADS
DANISH PASTRY DOUGH
Emmenthal, onion and mushroom pastries
Chaussons aux pommes
SAVOURY BRIOCHE COURONNE
Spicy squash salad with couronne
SICILIAN LEMON AND ORANGE SWEET BREAD
Limoncello trifle
SATSUMA AND DARK CHOCOLATE BRIOCHE
Satsuma and chocolate brioche ice cream
LARDY CAKE
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
DIRECTORY
Note
My baking times in the recipes are for fan-assisted ovens. If you are using a conventional oven, you will need to increase the oven setting by around 10–15°C. Ovens vary, so use an oven thermometer to verify the temperature and check your bread towards the end of the suggested cooking time.
INTRODUCTION
It is time to take bread off the side plate and put it back where it belongs: in the centre of the table. My book has two aims. First of all I want to teach you how to bake a wide variety of breads. And then I want to show how versatile bread is. Each of the breads in this book has a ‘spin off’ dish – starter, salad, main course or dessert – that the loaf is very much part of. So this is more than a baking book: it’s about the whole meal.
Perhaps because bread is everywhere, people forget how it can be the key food on the table. In the Mediterranean, where I lived for six years on the island of Cyprus, bread is the focal point of family eating, with everyone leisurely sitting around the table, chewing on bread with some pâté and salad, and talking together. To me, that’s what ‘breaking bread’ is about: coming together, tucking in, nourishment and pleasure.
The most successful dinner party I’ve had was after I had baked a batch of sourdough baguettes at work one morning. I brought them home, put them on the table that evening, opened some red wine and served apples, cheese, wine and pâté with the bread. Everyone left saying it was the most enjoyable meal they’d ever had. So when I’m presented with an anaemic roll on a side plate in a restaurant, well, that’s when I get wound up.
I learnt to bake as a teenager, picking up skills and knowledge by working in my Dad’s chain of bakeries. I moved on to become head baker at The Chester Grosvenor for five years, and after that at The Dorchester and Cliveden hotels. Then I went abroad and lived in Cyprus, learning how to bake Mediterranean-style breads and passing on what I knew about baking. Six years later I came back to Britain, started my own bakery, became involved in television and everything took off. The Great British Bake Off was a runaway success. Viewers in their millions were switched on to bread, cakes, pastry and pies, and turning on their ovens.
I’m proud to be a part of the revolution in baking in this country. People are making their own loaves, trying each other’s, and buying bread from proper bakeries. Shops are selling different kinds of flour and baking equipment. Cooks used to be more scared of making a loaf of bread than a Victoria sponge, but once you’ve got the techniques right, it’s even more fulfilling. A cake has its place: afternoon tea. Bread can be put on the table at breakfast, lunch, tea and supper. This book shows you how.
Bread baking is the easiest thing to learn – just a few very simple ingredients put together – and the hardest to master. But I’m going to take you through the techniques, passing on my secrets and giving you plenty of tips on how to bake. I’ll be guiding you with step-by-step instructions and photographs so you have the confidence and ability to make each bread.
Prehistoric man kneaded dough. Baking is in our psyche, but one crucial ingredient you need for success is passion. If you have that, then you’ll want to better yourself. Nobody will be more critical about your bakes than you. Put in the time and effort, notice what happens in each bake, keep learning and everyone will enjoy what you do – not least you. One of the secrets to being a good baker is understanding consistency: what the dough should feel like. It’s a touch thing, and you’ll have more and more knowledge at your fingertips the more you practise.
Be warned: many people find that baking is addictive. Once you get into it, you just want to bake more and more. It’s not just about wanting to get better. There’s also something magical about the transformative nature of baking. You start off with a slop in a bowl and end up with something crisp, warm and full of flavour that goes with anything.
Beyond this, you turn a house into a home when you fill it with bread. Everyone wants to be around a place that smells of baking. Once you’ve put that knife into your loaf and heard the crust splinter, then you get the wonderful smell of the crumb. By the time you’ve given a slice to your mother, partner, kids, friends, neighbours, aunties, there’s nothing left.
With these bread recipes and their spin-off dishes, you’ll turn simple ingredients into some of the best meals you’ve ever eaten.
EQUIPMENT
Bread doesn’t need much kit: a bowl, a baking tray and an oven are the main requirements. Here are the most useful basic tools of the trade.
Measuring equipment
Digital scales make it easy to weigh small amounts, and a set of accurate measuring spoons is essential.
Baker’s scraper
This is a useful tool for dividing the dough (into rolls, for example) and to clean down your work surface so that the dough doesn’t stick.
The best scrapers are those with a solid metal blade and a plastic or metal handle; you can also buy plastic ones. Your scraper should be solid enough so the blade can cut through the dough and not bend.
Plastic tubs
I like to use oiled plastic boxes to contain wetter doughs as they rise, because it helps keep their shape. This is particularly true of ciabatta, as you want to keep the dough light and airy before baking.
Bannetons
Bannetons are baskets that can be used to prove loaves. Traditionally made of wicker and round or long in shape, they are sometimes also lined with linen to prevent sticking. They are especially useful for wetter loaves, such as sourdoughs, to keep the shape and lift. A standard bowl can be used instead.
Tins and baking trays
Buy non-stick Teflon-coated tins and sturdy non-stick baking trays. The most useful loaf tin to have is a 1kg tin (about 27 x 14 x 7.5cm). As an alternative you can season standard tins and trays to make them non-stick: brush the surface with a little lard or oil, put it into a hot oven for about an hour, then turn off the oven and leave inside overnight with the door closed. Never wash your seasoned tin – just wipe it down with a warm cloth so you don’t scrape the surface. What you are doing is building up a resistance to the dough sticking. The more you use your seasoned tin or tray, the less it will stick. Otherwise, line with baking parchment (not greaseproof) or silicone paper.
Pastry brush, rolling pin and bowls
These are all useful bits of kit you’ll have in your kitchen anyway. I prefer rolling pins that have a handle on the same level as the pin. Pastry brushes are useful for getting glazes evenly onto breads. Use big, roomy bowls for rising bread, so it can expand well without flowing over.
INGREDIENTS
Bread is made from four main ingredients: flour, yeast, salt and water. You can have those in your house all the time and make bread whenever you want.
Flour
To make bread you need ‘strong’ flour. This is flour with the high level of protein – in the form of gluten – needed to give your bread its stretch and strength and a good chewy crumb. It’s important to remember that different types of flour have different protein levels and so do different brands of the same kind of flour. This will determine how much liquid the flour will absorb and may slightly affect your recipe. When making a new loaf, find a brand of flour you like and stick to it, especially when you are learning to bake, so you get used to how it works. It’s a bit like when you are starting to drive – changing the car throws you slightly.
STRONG WHITE FLOUR
White flour has the highest protein level of all the strong flours (12% and over) and this makes it easy to get a good rise and light bread. You can also add some strong white flour to other flours with less protein to help them lift and hold. Bakers buy the best quality, highest protein flour they can because they get more volume in the loaf and a better bake.
PLAIN AND SELF-RAISING WHITE FLOUR
Plain flour is used for cakes, biscuits and pastry, as well as soda bread. You get a more crumbly texture with plain flour, with its lower protein level (9–11%), but you need to be sure you don’t overwork doughs with plain flour or they can become tough.
Self-raising flour contains baking powder and needs no other raising agent. It is mainly used for cakes.
STRONG WHOLEMEAL FLOUR
This is one of my favourite flours because it has so much flavour, especially when it’s stoneground. I sometimes mix wholemeal with other flours to get a more complex loaf and add strong white flour to get more lift. Wholemeal flour absorbs more water than white and requires a slightly longer knead.
MALTED FLOUR
Malted flour is slightly darker in colour than white flour because of the addition of tasty malted wheat flakes. You also see it sold as ‘Granary’ flour. Brands differ slightly in their composition, so it is worth trying several to see which one you like best.
RYE FLOUR
Rye is a grass that is different to wheat and has less gluten. Much used in German and Scandinavian baking, it is making a comeback here as well. The flour is slightly more difficult to work with than other flours because it is low in protein (below 10%) and makes a heavy dough that takes longer to rise, but it is worth using in a mix with other flours.
SPELT FLOUR
Known as a ‘grandfather grain’, spelt is an ancestor of modern wheat that has been rediscovered. With less gluten than its descendants, it is best combined with other stronger flours and baked in a tin to give the dough