Backyard Ballistics: Build Potato Cannons, Paper Match Rockets, Cincinnati Fire Kites, Tennis Ball Mortars, and More Dynamite Devices
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About this ebook
William Gurstelle
William Gurstelle is an American nonfiction author, magazine writer, and inventor. He is a feature columnist for Make: magazine and the Pyrotechnics and Ballistics Editor at Popular Mechanics magazine.
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Reviews for Backyard Ballistics
81 ratings4 reviews
- Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5I bought this book to use in an after school science enrichment class I teach. It did not disappoint, the kids thought all my exploding stuff was great. Along the way they also learned terms like exothermic and velocity. Pretty decent for elementary school. Plus? Now I'm the coolest mom in school. :-D
1 person found this helpful
- Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5This book rules. I am a grown-ass woman and I'll be doing some of these experiments. I don't have kids. It just sounds like fun.
- Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5This book is not politically correct, in an era in which school science experiments have been tamed to the point that there is little possibility that the teacher will kill or maim him/herself. William Gurstelle, an engineer who has been collecting plans for devices that will throw stuff fast and far, is careful to emphasize the hazards implicit in shooting potatoes or water balloons the length of a football field, or launching flaming newspaper (Cincinnati fire kite) into the sky. Youngsters would need lots of adult supervision when making or using these devices, but any budding engineer would thrill to see them in action.
- Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Some interesting experiments and easy to follow instructions.
Book preview
Backyard Ballistics - William Gurstelle
1
Keeping Safety in Mind
GENERAL SAFETY RULES
When you were a child, people told you not to play with matches for a good reason—they can be dangerous! If you don’t follow the directions closely, any of the experiments in Backyard Ballistics could cause harm to you and your possessions. Remember to always follow the instructions closely. Do not make changes to the materials or construction techniques. It can lead to unexpected and unintended results.
A Very Important Message
The projects described in the following pages have been designed with safety foremost in mind. However, as you try them, there is still a possibility that something unexpected may occur. It is important that you understand neither the author, the publisher, nor the bookseller can or will guarantee your safety. When you try the projects described here, you do so at your own risk.
Some of these projects have been popular for many years, while others are new. Unfortunately, in rare instances, damage to both property and people occurred when something went wrong. The likelihood of such an occurrence is remote, as long as the directions are followed, but remember this—things can go wrong. Always use common sense and remember that all experiments and projects are carried out at your own risk.
Be aware that each city, town, or municipality has its own rules and regulations, some of which may apply to the projects described in Backyard Ballistics. Further, local authorities have wide latitude to interpret the law. Therefore, you should take the time to learn the rules, regulations, and laws of the area in which you plan to carry out these projects. A check with local law enforcement will tell you whether the project is suitable for your area. If not, there are other places where experiments can be undertaken safely and legally. If in doubt, be sure to check first!
Ground Rules
These are your general safety rules. Each chapter also provides specific safety instructions.
The experiments described here run the gamut from simple to complex. All are designed for adults or, at a minimum, to be supervised by adults. Take note: Some experiments involve the use of matches, volatile materials, and projectiles. Adult supervision is mandatory for all such experiments.
Read the entire project description carefully before beginning the experiment. Make sure you understand what the experiment is about, and what it is that you are trying to accomplish. If something is unclear, reread the directions until you fully comprehend the entire experiment.
Don’t make substitutions for the specific liquids and aerosols indicated for use in each experiment. Stay away—far away—from gasoline, starting ether, alcohol, and other powerful inflammables. There are few things as dangerous as flammable liquids or aerosols. They can and do explode, and the consequences can be disastrous.
Use only the quantities of fluid listed in the project instructions. Don’t use more propellant than specified.
Don’t make substitutions in materials or alterations in construction techniques. If the directions say to cure a joint overnight, then cure it overnight. Don’t take shortcuts.
Read and obey all label directions when they call for materials such as PVC cement, primer, and other chemicals.
Remove and safely store all cans or bottles containing naphtha, hairspray, or any other flammable substance prior to performing the experiment. A good rule of thumb is to maintain a hazard-free radius of at least 50 feet around the area in which you plan to work.
The area in which the projects are undertaken must be cleared of all items that can be damaged by projectiles, flying objects, and so forth.
Keep people away from the firing zone in front of all rockets, mortars, cannons, etc. Use care when transporting, aiming, and firing, and always be aware of where the device is pointing.
Wear protective eyewear when indicated in the directions. Similarly, some experiments call for hearing protection, blast shields, gloves, and so forth. Always use them.
Remember this:
The instructions and information are provided here for your use without any guarantee of safety. Each project has been extensively tested in a variety of conditions. But variations, mistakes, and unforeseen circumstances can and do occur. Therefore, all projects and experiments are performed at your own risk! If you don’t take this seriously, then put this book down; it is not for you.
Finally, there is no substitute for your own common sense. If something doesn’t seem right, stop and review what you’re doing. You must take responsibility for your personal safety and the safety of others around you.
WORKING WITH PVC PIPE
Several of the projects contained here involve cutting and joining PVC pipe. This section tells you what you need to know in order to make safe and secure joints.
First, you should be aware that there are at least four types of plastic pipe and plastic pipe joints available: PVC, CPVC, ABS, and PB. The letters are abbreviations for the type of plastic material that composes the pipe. Pressure rated schedule-40 PVC pipe and pipe fittings are made of white polyvinyl chloride. This is the type of pipe and pipe joints recommended for these projects.
You can purchase the PVC pipe and pipe fittings at your local hardware or home store. Note that even among PVC pipe there are different kinds, and some, such as cellular core PVC (recognizable by the designation ASTM 02241 printed on the pipe), are not suitable for use in these projects. Be sure to use only pressure rated schedule-40 PVC pipe with the pressure rating printed on the outside of the pipe by the manufacturer. If there is no pressure rating or schedule number printed on the pipe, don’t use it. Such pipes are likely made from cellular core materials, which are not strong enough. If you read the words cell core
or cellular core
on the pipe, don’t use it!
Sometimes you’ll see the letters DWV printed on the pipe. They only signify its applicability for use in certain plumbing situations and does not mean that a pipe is usable or not useable for the projects that follow. Just make sure there is a pressure rating printed on the pipe.
The pressure rating of the pipe changes with temperature. As the air temperature rises, the plastic gets weaker. At 90°F, the pipe’s pressure rating is only three-quarters of what it is at 70°F, and at 100°F, the pipe is only two-thirds as strong. While projects in Backyard Ballistics are designed so pressures are always well below ratings, keep in mind that on hot days your margin of safety is much less.
Unlike pipes, PVC fittings (elbow joints, tee joints, and so forth) usually do not come with pressure ratings on them. Typically they are rated for 150 psi, although some are rated for more, and a few for less. If you are in doubt of the pressure rating of the fitting, ask the person you are buying it from. Be sure to inspect the pipe end and fittings for cracks, dirt, and abrasions. Don’t use damaged PVC pipe or fittings.
Cutting and Fitting PVC Pipe
PVC pipe is easily cut with a regular crosscut saw or a fine-bladed handsaw. It is important that all the cuts be made as close to 90 degrees to the centerline of the pipe as possible. That way, you won’t leave any interior gaps, which will weaken the joint. Be sure to remove any burrs.
You may want to dry fit
the pipe into the joints before you apply any cement to see how things fit. Sometimes the dry-fitted pipes and joint fittings stick together so tightly it is hard to get them apart. If that happens, you can carefully whack the fitting loose with a wooden block.
Joining and Cementing PVC Pipe
The process of joining and cementing PVC pipe is technically called solvent welding.
The solvent melts the plastic so when you push the pipe and the pipe fitting together, the two parts fuse as the solvent evaporates. Each type of plastic pipe has its own special solvent. Some solvents are advertised to work on several types of plastic, but it is strongly recommended that you use the solvent that is meant solely for the type of plastic you’re working with. At the hardware store the solvent you need is called PVC cement.
The solvent works only on clean surfaces—surfaces with no dirt, no grease, and no moisture. Wipe the inside of the fitting and the outside of the pipe with a clean cloth. Then, apply PVC primer (called purple primer
) to the ends. Allow the primer to dry before applying cement.
Next, coat the surfaces that you want to join with a thick coat of PVC cement. (PVC cement, which is a solvent, should only be used in well-ventilated areas.) Immediately join the pipe and fitting full depth with a slight twist to bring it into correct alignment. A continuous ooze of cement around the fitting indicates that you used enough solvent cement to ensure a leak-free joint. Let the joint dry for several hours before using. Be sure to observe the cure times shown on the PVC cement can’s directions or see the table on the next page for average joint cure times.
GENERAL PVC SOLVENT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
Avoid breathing the PVC solvent cement and primer vapors. Work in a well-ventilated area.
Keep all chemicals away from open flames.
Read and follow the precautions that appear on the labels.
Joint Cure Time is the time required before pressure testing. In damp or humid weather, allow 50 percent additional cure time. How long should PVC cure? Use the table here.