PRIDE OF  PLACE

We'd heard lions roar near camp in the morning. Among a dawn chorus of toads, crickets and all manner of birds, the low rumble was unmistakable. So, out on the plains of Ol Pejeta Conservancy, our mission is clear. With the help of Peter Ojuku, our Abercrombie & Kent guide who we will journey through Kenya with for the week, we become experts in animal behaviour. A flock of guinea fowl scurries noisily along the road ahead of us. They are vocal birds that warn of predators, says Peter. The zebras seem wary; maybe they are getting a scent. “But what is it?” he ponders. A herd of impalas takes off suddenly, bounding into a grove of acacia bush. On cue, two hyenas appear (cute and fluffy for such a maligned scavenger, with teddy-bear faces). They saunter along curiously. “The cleaning team has arrived,” observes Peter. “There must be something here.” Our driver stops the safari vehicle and we sit in silence, studying the air, eyes scanning all around: electric with anticipation at the sense of a big cat in our midst.

But we don't have time to wait and see what might unfold. A rainbow arcs above a huge blue-flint sky and sheets of grey on the horizon indicate we don't have long before the heavens open. We hurtlea fierce blast of golden hour, the sky takes on a violent intensity. The rain holds off as we sip our sundowners, and Peter gazes into the distance. He knows the lions are out there.