COOPERATIVES OF SPAIN
At some point towards the tail end of the 20th century, ‘cooperative’ became a dirty word in progressive Spanish winemaking circles. At their zenith, close to three-quarters of production in the country’s winemaking heartlands was represented by las cooperativas vitivinícolas – wine producers of widely varying sizes, owned and controlled by their grower-members.
But by the end of the 20th century, co-ops were considered an embarrassing anachronism by many in the industry. They were seen as a throwback to the bad old days of Spanish wine, before the post-Franco transition to democracy and Spain’s accession to the EEC (now EU) in 1986.
This political transformation ushered in a bold new era in which ambitious, entrepreneurial, independent producers changed the way Spanish wine was made, sold and discussed. At a time of rapid change, co-ops came to stand for all that was retrogressive – a