A colourful sadhu (holy man) on the Ganges River in Varanasi
© Chakorn Amornset/Shutterstock
FIRE INDIA
the vibrant Manikarnika Ghat
© Dzain/ Adobe Stock“You want to go look at the burning bodies?” asks a young, clean-shaven local man matter-of-factly as we sit on steps a short distance away from Manikarnika, the largest cremation ghat on the sacred Ganges River in India’s Varanasi.
“Each caste has a different burning spot, and I can show you. Cremation is education, and burning is learning [did he really just say that?]. It comes at no cost to you; I am a volunteer.” I know there will be a cost, but, being genuinely fascinated by this cremation ghat, and also a sucker for great patter, I jump up to follow him. My husband and two grown sons follow close behind.
Cows, bulls, goats and wild dogs intermingle with the human throngs at the burning ghat. “Watch out for cow shit,” says our volunteer, helpfully
