Duncansby Head is the sailors’ John o’ Groats, marking the far north-eastern corner of the Scottish mainland. Passing it is a key moment in any circumnavigator’s journey and so often the next heading south would be to Rattray Head and the refuge harbour of Peterhead.
Instead, take a detour, hug the coastline towards Inverness and give yourself time to explore the harbours, inlets and wildlife of the Moray Firth. In September 2021, as part of my Harbour Master Sailing Challenge, this is exactly what I did with the benefit of some calm weather and an enthusiastic crew. Of the 20 harbours we visited,
