Deborah, the Dowager Duchess of Devonshire, died nearly a decade ago, but her high-low style that blended couture — and namely Givenchy, Patou, Balmain and Oscar de la Renta — with farmer chic, endures.
The latest designer to ponder “Debo’s” eclectic, and very British, way of mixing it up is Erdem Moralioglu, who filled his collection with riffs on some great ’50s circle skirts, twinsets, swing coats and leopard spot silhouettes.
“She was an extraordinary force, and I found that so inspiring. I was thinking about the dichotomies of the way she dressed, and about the British-ness of it all — the kilts, trenchcoats, check suits and chintzy fabrics. I felt like there was a pragmatism, as well as a timeless elegance, that I was really inspired by,” said the designer.
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Moralioglu freshened up that look, splashing an oversize flower print — something the gardening duchess would have loved — across strapless gowns, cotton shirtdresses, check suits and knife pleat skirts.
He also dipped into the duchess’ bug-filled jewelry box, dotting evening gowns, swing coats and a long, curvy black jacket with colorful brooches and pins in the shape of dragonflies, spiders and butterflies.
Faux rubies and emeralds, fat as gumdrops, lined the necks and bodices of dresses and gowns.
Knitwear was a standout, and sparkled plenty. A gray round neck sweater came with a big “E” picked out in pearls and a necklace with oversize charms, while a billowy rose and vine print tumbled across a baby pink one, giving an air of gardening chic to the collection.
The mood was faithful to the duchess’ aesthetic. In her later years, she’d virtually given up on designer fashion, and would head for the nearest agricultural show to fill in her wardrobe.