Pevek (English) Певек (Russian) |
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- Town[1] - | |
![]() View of Pevek from the south |
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![]() Location of Chukotka Autonomous Okrug in Russia |
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Coordinates: 69°42′00″N 170°17′00″E / 69.7°N 170.2833333°ECoordinates: 69°42′00″N 170°17′00″E / 69.7°N 170.2833333°E | |
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Administrative status (as of May 2011) | |
Country | Russia |
Federal subject | Chukotka Autonomous Okrug[1] |
Administrative district | Chaunsky District[2] |
Municipal status (as of October 2010) | |
Municipal district | Chaunsky Municipal District[3] |
Urban settlement | Pevek Urban Settlement[3] |
Administrative center of | Pevek Urban Settlement[3] |
Head of Administration[4] | Alexander Garnazhenko[4] |
Statistics | |
Population (2010 Census, preliminary) |
4,161 inhabitants[5] |
Population (2002 Census) | 5,206 inhabitants[6] |
Time zone | MAGT (UTC+12:00)[7] |
Founded | 1936[8] |
Postal code(s) | 689400[4] |
Dialing code(s) | +7 42737[4] |
Official website |
Pevek (Russian: Певек) is an Arctic port town and the administrative center of Chaunsky District of Chukotka Autonomous Okrug, Russia, located on Chaunskaya Bay (part of the East Siberian Sea) on a peninsula on the eastern side of the bay facing the Routan Islands, above the Arctic Circle, about 640 kilometers (400 mi) northwest of Anadyr. It is the northernmost town in Russia and in Asia. Population: 4,161 (2010 Census preliminary results);[5] 5,206 (2002 Census);[6] 12,915 (1989 Census).[9]
Municipally, the town is subordinated to Chaunsky Municipal District and together with Apapelgino and Yanranay is incorporated as Pevek Urban Settlement.[3] The town is a modern settlement established after World War I to provide a port for the export of minerals as part of the expanding Northern Sea Route. During the 1940s and 1950s, the area surrounding Pevek was the site of several GULAGs where prisoners mined uranium. In recent years though many of the mines have been shown to be uneconomic and have closed, causing many residents to move to more central regions in Russia and for the port infrastructure to decay.
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The area around Pevek was known to western Russians by the middle of the 18th century as the records of the second Kamchatka Expedition document the discovery of Cape Shelag, with further references to the cape being made in the records of the Billings expedition, with Russian explorers first describing Chaunskaya Bay in the 1760s.[8]
The earliest records of the area now known as Pevek being inhabited were made by the writer Tikhon Semushkin, who discovered a Chukchi hunting lodge and yaranga in 1926. By the mid-1930s, Pevek was an important port in the region, due to the natural harbour provided by Chaunskaya Bay, the expansion of the Northern Sea Route and the discovery of tin at the Pyrkakay mine (which would later be renamed Krasnoarmeysky) some 40 miles away.[8] The discovery of minerals throughout this region meant Pevek had an important part to play in importing the required plant and machinery and exporting the extracted minerals and by 1950, the settlement had nearly 1500 people living in it.
There are two theories for the origin of the town's name. The first is that it is derived from the Chukchi word for fat; it was originally named for the nearby hill Peekin'ey, meaning swollen mountain.[8] The more macabre theory is that the name is derived from the Chukchi word "Pagytkenay", meaning "smelly mountain". Legend has it that a battle was fought on the site of the town between the local Chukchi and Yukaghir peoples. At the time, there was no tradition of burying the dead among the indigenous people, so the odour of rotting flesh was present for a long time.[8] This legend suggests a reason why when Russian explorers first discovered the bay, they did not find any settlement, as the Chukchi refused to settle in the region following the battle and only brought their animals to pasture in the summer.[8]
The workforce for the mines that provided the Soviet Union with tin and uranium throughout the large parts of the 20th century were prisoners in the Gulag system. There was a network of camps in the region itself, through which an uncertain number of criminal and political prisoners passed.[8] There are the remains of two large camps, "North" and "West", which continued to supply uranium during and after World War II. Barracks dot the landscape and have the appearance of being hastily abandoned. Large graveyards on the edge of the various encampments show that a large proportion of those sent to work in the mines did not survive.[8]
During the 1990s, after the dissolution of the Soviet Union, the town's population dropped by more than half as commercial navigation in the Arctic went into decline and people began to gravitate towards the central Russian regions.[8] More or less regular shipping is presently to be found only from Murmansk to Dudinka in the west and between Vladivostok and Pevek in the east. Ports between Dudinka and Pevek have virtually no shipping.
Pevek has a Tundra climate (Köppen ET), with long, very cold winters, and short, cool summers.
Climate data for Pevek | |||||||||||||
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Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
Record high °C (°F) | 8.9 (48.0) |
1.4 (34.5) |
5.8 (42.4) |
7.6 (45.7) |
16.1 (61.0) |
27.0 (80.6) |
29.2 (84.6) |
25.0 (77.0) |
20.3 (68.5) |
8.1 (46.6) |
8.7 (47.7) |
8.9 (48.0) |
29.2 (84.6) |
Average high °C (°F) | −24.6 (−12.3) |
−24.8 (−12.6) |
−18.8 (−1.8) |
−12.1 (10.2) |
0.5 (32.9) |
8.4 (47.1) |
11.4 (52.5) |
10.2 (50.4) |
4.5 (40.1) |
−4.4 (24.1) |
−14.6 (5.7) |
−20.5 (−4.9) |
−7.1 (19.2) |
Daily mean °C (°F) | −26.9 (−16.4) |
−27.5 (−17.5) |
−22.2 (−8.0) |
−15.2 (4.6) |
−1.8 (28.8) |
5.4 (41.7) |
8.7 (47.7) |
8.2 (46.8) |
3.0 (37.4) |
−6 (21.2) |
−16.7 (1.9) |
−22.9 (−9.2) |
−9.5 (14.9) |
Average low °C (°F) | −29.3 (−20.7) |
−30 (−22) |
−25.5 (−13.9) |
−18.7 (−1.7) |
−4.4 (24.1) |
2.4 (36.3) |
6.0 (42.8) |
6.0 (42.8) |
1.3 (34.3) |
−7.7 (18.1) |
−19 (−2) |
−25.3 (−13.5) |
−12 (10.4) |
Record low °C (°F) | −45 (−49) |
−50 (−58) |
−43.3 (−45.9) |
−40 (−40) |
−30 (−22) |
−9.1 (15.6) |
−2.2 (28.0) |
−4.6 (23.7) |
−12.7 (9.1) |
−29.3 (−20.7) |
−39 (−38) |
−41.1 (−42.0) |
−50 (−58) |
Precipitation mm (inches) | 9 (0.35) |
12 (0.47) |
7 (0.28) |
11 (0.43) |
10 (0.39) |
15 (0.59) |
26 (1.02) |
27 (1.06) |
21 (0.83) |
16 (0.63) |
14 (0.55) |
16 (0.63) |
184 (7.24) |
% humidity | 83 | 81 | 81 | 83 | 79 | 74 | 76 | 79 | 80 | 80 | 84 | 83 | 80 |
Avg. rainy days | 0 | 0 | 0.1 | 0.1 | 2 | 7 | 13 | 12 | 10 | 1 | 0.3 | 0 | 45.5 |
Avg. snowy days | 18 | 18 | 15 | 14 | 12 | 5 | 3 | 3 | 12 | 20 | 17 | 19 | 156 |
Source: Pogoda.ru.net[10] |
The town is a large port at the Northern Sea Route, the most important northern port in Chukotka, although shipping levels have dropped significantly in recent years. The port is the eastern base of the northern sea route's Marine Operations Headquarters, run by the Far-East Shipping Company from an icebreaker in the harbour,[11] though the port is still owned by the Russian Ministry of Transport.[12] The ports authority stretches as far as 125o east, just west of the Lena River. Past this point the western Marine Operations Headquarters, based in Dikson has control.[11] The headquarters govern all routes that ships take whilst using the northern sea route, organising convoys and providing up to date information on ice conditions throughout their sphere of influence.[11] As well as the Far Eastern Shipping Company, the port is also used by the Arctic Shipping Company, based in Tiksi, who take coal from Zheleny Mys to Pevek.[13]
Despite its prominence as the eastern Marine Operations Headquarters, the level of cargo the port has had to deal with in recent years has been declining rapidly. Although there is still gold mining around Bilibino and Leningradsky, there is little in the way of cargo generation as a result of that industry.[14] The port is not a significant exporter of goods at all and is mainly responsible for dealing with the import of fuel (coal from Beringovsky and oil from Europe and the United States) for the region, though in the second half of the 1990s, even this activity rarely exceeded a few thousand tons, and in 1997, Mys Shmidta, traditionally the second most important of the northern Chukotkan ports was handling nearly four times as much cargo.[15] The future does not look good either, although mining for other materials such as tin still occurs in the region, many of the mines have closed, being deemed unprofitable, and a number of settlements, such as Iul'tin, Komsomolsky and Krasnoarmeysky have been officially liquidated, with any remaining economic activity producing only very low cargo volumes at best.[14]
The result of the closing of the mines in the region is that many people have moved to other areas of Russia. This has caused the almost complete eradication of an export market as well as a corresponding drop in the required level of imports. This causes a lack of demand for the facilities at the port whose precarious profitability leads to a lack of investment. This decaying infrastructure is endemic across the northern sea route and makes the supply route unreliable. For example, winter fuel bound for Pevek did not arrive until the end of November in 1998,[16] this is for a port whose average sailing season lasts only until 25 October.[12]
A slight recovery is perhaps indicated by an increase in cargo handled. In 1997, Pevek handled over 200,000 tons of cargo, second only to Dudinka of the true northern sea route ports, with 1,143,000 tons.[17]
The port has a maximum ship draft of 10.25 m.[12]
There is some mining in the area; tin, mercury, gold and black coal deposits are all located near the town. However, many of the mines that previously produced significant quantities of minerals for export have now been deemed to be uneconomical and have closed. Most mining that takes place in the region is relatively low key. However, this level of activity is still sufficient to provide enough business to keep two processing plants in Pevek.[8]
Besides the port as a key transport link with the rest of Russia, the town is also served by Pevek Airport, 17 km to the north west of the town in the village of Apapelgino, a settlement established specifically to house the airport's staff.[8] The airport provides flights to major regional towns such as Magadan, Anadyr and Bilibino as well as to Moscow.[8]
Pevek also has the most developed road infrastructure in the Okrug. There is approximately 150 km of year-round, paved roads going to local settlements such as the now abandoned village of Valkumey as well as to the mines at Komsomolsky and Krasnoarmeysky as well as an ice road to Bilibino.[12]
Pevek is described as the place of death of Edith Abramovna in Varlam Shalamov's short story Descendant of a Decembrist[18] At the end of the story, the doctor, Mikhail Sergeyevich Lunin is re-instated in his original job with Dalstroy as a result of assistance from his estranged wife. He moves to Pevek, described as then only being a village, with Edith following him. Despite trying to talk through their differences, they are unsuccessful and Edith is described as committing suicide by throwing herself into the Pevek River.
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Everybody gets fucked up of saying ther's no way to live,
Working half our lives like dogs then try to have fun
I turn the TV off, don't watch the dreams that I can't afford,
And I take a look all around, see the old world falling down
I'm guess I'm happy, got everything I needed
Guess I got what I deserve, must've been born in the wrong place
I must be happy, that's what my mommy always told me but
Can somebody tell me why I've burned forty years in a single night
We're against the wall and everybody knows it
And all around the world it's all the same
There's people living and dying in the street
It 's you and me, can't you see
Now mom and dad, don't get me wrong,