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Kodungallur
—  municipality and town  —
Kodungallur Location of Kodungallur in Kerala state
Coordinates	10°13′N 76°13′E / 10.22°N 76.22°E / 10.22; 76.22Coordinates: 10°13′N 76°13′E / 10.22°N 76.22°E / 10.22; 76.22
Country	India
State	Kerala state
District(s)	Thrissur
Population	33,543 (2001[update])
Time zone	IST (UTC+05:30)
Area • Elevation	• 9 metres (30 ft)
Codes • Pincode • 680664 • Telephone • +0480 • Vehicle • KL-8 / KL 47

Kodungallur (Malayalam: കൊടുങ്ങല്ലൂര്‍, anglicised name: Cranganore) is a municipality located in Thrissur district in the state of Kerala, India on the Malabar Coast. Kodungallur is 29 km northwest of Kochi and 38 km southwest of Thrissur, by National Highway 66.

The location of the ancient seaport Muziris was very close to Kodungallur. Kodungallur was also a part of Mahodayapuram, the capital of the Later Cheras. Being situated in Thrissur district, Corporation of Cochin has drafted a master plan that aims to develop Kodungallur as a satellite township to Kochi city.^[1]

Etymology [link]

The name Kodungallur is derived from Kodi-linga-puram ("the land of 10 million Siva lingas") according to common belief. Kodungallur was perhaps the revenue collection center of Kudakons (the Chera rulers) for the goods coming to the nearby port, hence the name Kudakonallur which later shortened to Kodungallur.

Kodungallur has had many names over the centuries:^[2]

• Jangli, Gingaleh, Cyngilin, Shinkali, Chinkli, Jinkali, Shenkala and Cynkali. These were all derived from the name of the river Changala (or the Chain river, i.e., Shringala in Sanskrit) which originates at Kanjur from Periyar.

• Additional used names have been: Columguria, Kotilingapuram, Kudalingapuram, Kodunkaliyur, Thiruvallur, Ravivisvapuram and Balakreetapuram.

History [link]

During Chera rule [link]

Hindu temple at Kodungallur from La galerie agreable du monde (...); Tome premier des Indes Orientales, c. 1725

During the time of the Chera dynasty, Muziris near present day Kodungallur was an important trade link in Indian maritime history. The region around Kodungallur can claim to have played a significant part in fostering the trade relations between Cheras and the foreign world in the ancient and medieval periods. It also claims to have played an important part in fostering cultural relations and in laying the foundation of a composite culture in this part of the Chera country. Muziris was destroyed by massive flooding of Periyar in 14th century, opening for a new port called Kochi.^[3]

Cape of Kodungallur, where Periyar empties into Arabian Sea

[edit] Arrival of Thomas the Apostle (51–52 AD)^[4]

The indigenous church of Kerala has a tradition that Saint Thomas sailed there to spread the Christian faith. He landed at Muziris. He then went to Palayoor (near present-day Guruvayoor), which was a Hindu priestly community. He left Palayoor in 52 AD for the southern part of what is now Kerala state, where he established the Ezharappallikal ("Seven and Half Churches").

These churches are at Kodungallur, Kollam, Niranam, Nilackal (Chayal), Kokkamangalam, Kottakkayal (Paravoor), Palayoor (Chattukulangara) and Thiruvithancode Arappally — the half church.^[5][6]

Cheraman Juma Masjid [link]

Believed to be built in 629 AD by Mālik bin Dīnār, Cheraman Juma Masjid is considered the oldest mosque in India and the second oldest mosque in the world to offer Jumu'ah prayers.^[7][8] Constructed during the lifetime of Muhammad, the bodies of some of his original followers are said to be buried there.^[9] Unlike other mosques in the region that face westwards this mosque faces east.

File photograph of the Cheraman Juma Masjid showing influences of traditional Hindu architecture on the mosque

The legend has it that a group of Muhammad's Ṣaḥāba (companions) visited Kodungallur. An unknown Chera dynasty ruler had witnessed a miraculous happening — the sudden splitting of the moon, the celebrated miracle of Muhammad — and learned on inquiry that this was a symbol of the coming of a Messenger of God from Arabia. Soon after, the Chera ruler traveled to Makkah, where he embraced Islam, and accepted the name "Tajuddin". On his way back to India he died at Salalah in Oman. On his deathbed he is said to have authorised some of his Arab companions to go back to his kingdom to spread Islam. Accordingly, a group of Arabs led by Mālik bin Dīnār and Mālik bin Habib arrived in northern Chera kingdom and constructed the Cheraman Juma Masjid at Kodungalloor.^[7][10][11]

Destruction of Muziris [link]

The flood of Periyar in 1341 AD resulted in the splitting of the left branch of the river into two just before the city of Aluva. The flood silted the right branch (known as River Changala) and the natural harbour at the mouth of the river, and resulted in the creation of a new harbour at Kochi. An island was formed with the name Vypinkara between Vypin to Munambam during the flood.

[edit] Portuguese

The town was nearly completely destroyed by the Portuguese (Suarez de Menezes) on September 1, 1504 in retaliation for the Samoothiri Raja's actions against them.

[edit] Raid on Cranganore

India Malabar Coast c.1500

October, 1504 While in Cochin, Lopo Soares receives reports that the Zamorin of Calicut has dispatched a force to fortify Cranganore, the port city at the northern end of the Vembanad lagoon, and the usual entry point for the Zamorin's army and fleet into the Kerala backwaters. Reading this as a preparation for a renewed attack on Cochin after the 6th Armada leaves, Lopo Soares decides on a preemptive strike. He orders a squadron of around ten fighting ships and numerous Cochinese bateis and paraus, to head up there. The heavier ships, unable to make their way into the shallow channels, anchor at Palliport (Pallipuram, on the outer edge of Vypin island), while those ships, bateis and paraus that can continue on.

Converging on Cranganore, the Portuguese-Cochinese fleet quickly disperses the Zamorin's forces on the beach with cannonfire, and then lands an amphibian assault force – some 1,000 Portuguese and 1,000 Cochinese Nairs, who take on the rest of the Zamorin's forces in close combat. The Zamorin's forces are defeated and driven away from the city.^[12] The assault troops capture Cranganore, and subject the ancient city, the once-great Chera capital of Kerala, to a thorough and violent sacking and razing. Deliberate fires were already started by squads led by Duarte Pacheco Pereira and factor Diogo Fernandes Correa, while the main fighting was still going on. They quickly consume most of the city, save for the Syrian Christian quarters, which are carefully spared (Jewish and Muslim homes are not given the same consideration).

In the meantime, the Calicut fleet, some 5 ships and 80 paraus, that had been dispatched to save the city are intercepted by the idling Portuguese ships near Palliport and defeated in a naval encounter.^[13] Two days later, the Portuguese receive an urgent message from the ruler of Tanur (Tanore)or Vettattnad, whose kingdom lay to the north, on the road between Calicut and Cranganore. The raja of Tanur had come to loggerheads with his overlord, the Zamorin, and offered to place himself under Portuguese suzerainity instead, in return for military assistance. He reports that a Calicut column, led by the Zamorin himself, had been assembled in a hurry to try to save Cranganore, but that he managed to block its passage at Tanur. Lopo Soares immediately dispatches Pêro Rafael with a caravel and a sizeable Portuguese armed force to assist the Tanurese. The Zamorin's column is defeated and dispersed soon after its arrival.

Relics of the Cranganore Fort built by the Portuguese on the shores of the Kottapuram River

The raid on Cranganore and the defection of Tanuror Vettattnad are serious setbacks to the Zamorin, pushing the frontline north and effectively placing the Vembanad lagoon out of the Zamorin's reach. Any hopes the Zamorin had of quickly resuming his attempts to capture Cochin via the backwaters are effectively dashed. No less importantly, the battles at Cranganore and Tanur, which involved significant numbers of Malabari captains and troops, clearly demonstrated that the Zamorin was no longer feared in the region. The Battle of Cochin had broken his authority. Cranganore and Tanuror Vettattnad showed that Malabaris were no longer afraid of defying his authority and taking up arms against him. The Portuguese were no longer just a passing nuisance, a handful of terrifying pirates who came and went once a year. They were a permanent disturbance, turning the old order upside down. A new chapter was being opened on the Malabar coast.

[edit] Cranganore Fort (1523 A.D.)

Cranganore Fort was built by Portuguese in 1523 A.D. and later it in 1565 A.D. it was enlarged. It is also known as Kottappuram Fort.The fort was named as Fortaleza Sao Tome, by the Portuguese. The Dutch took possession of the fort in 1661. In 1776, Tipu Sultan seized the control of fort. The Dutch wrested it back from Tipu Sultan, but the fort eventually came under the control of Tipu, who destroyed it in the following year. The remains of the fort show that the original fort wall was 18 feet in thickness. The ruin is also known as Tipu's fort.

Notable landmarks [link]

^[14]

A scene from Kodungallur Bharani festival in Kodungallur Bhagavathy Temple

Cranganore with Dutch East India Company ships in the harbor (1708)

• Kodungallur Bhagavathy Temple: It is believed to have been constructed during the reign of Chera King, Cheran Senkuttuvan. It is famous for its Bharani and Thalappoli festival. The temple requires the pilgrim to carry pepper and turmeric powder as one of the offerings to the deity.

• Bharani festival: The Bharani festival at the Kodungallur Bhagawati temple is a month of festivities of the Bharani asterism in the month of Aquarius to seven days after the Bharani asterism in the month of Pisces. Traditionally, the temple (especially during the Bharani festival) has been associated with animal sacrifices. The blood of the sacrificed used to be spilled over two stones in the prakaram(closed precincts of a temple), but these customs have been abolished in the 20th century. William Logan, a social historian of Kerala, noted in 1887 that, "after Onam, the national festival, Kodungallur Bharani was the most important celebration in Kerala."

• Cheraman Juma Masjid: The masjid was built around 629 A.D. by Malik Ibn Dinar^{[citation needed]} in the typical local style of architecture and the bodies of some of the original followers are said to have been buried here. This is said to be the first mosque constructed in India.

• Mar Thoma Church: The apostle St Thomas is believed to have landed in Kodungallur in 52 A.D. He established the church, which is believed to be the first Christian church in India. It still houses ancient relics which are displayed to visitors at certain times.

• Thiruvanchikulam Mahadeva Temple: It is one of the oldest Shiva temples in South India where Lord Shiva is said to have lived along with his whole family. This temple has got a relation with Tamil Nadu's famous Chidambaram temple. This temple has another rare event called "Anayottam" (elephant race) which is part of the annual festival. Lord Shiva of the Thiruvanchikulam temple is the family god of Cochin Royal Family (Perumpadapu Swaroopam). Thiruvanchikulam temple has the oldest reference in history in old Tamil Sangam literature, well before Malayalam was formed.

• Edavilangu sivakrishnapuram Temple: It is one of the oldest temples in Kodungallur. It is currently under the Cochin Devaswom Board, but is now looked after by the devotees of Edavilangu. Here, Lord Siva and Krishna are the main idols.

• Cranganore Fort: Also known as Kodungallur Fort, was built by the Portuguese in 1523. The Dutch took possession of it in 1661 and later it came under the control of Tipu Sultan. The ruin is also known as Tipu Sultan’s fort. The fort is about 2 km from the town of Kodungallur.^[15]

• Chirakkal Kovilakam: This is the palace of Royal Family of Kodungallur. Kodungallur was an autonomous principality subordinate to the Raja of Cochin until India's Independence in 1947.

• Puthen Kovilakam

Demographics [link]

As of 2001^[update] India census,^[16] Kodungallur had a population of 33,543. Males constitute 47% of the population and females 53%. Kodungallur has an average literacy rate of 83%, which is significantly higher than the national average of 59.5%. Male literacy is 86% and female literacy is 81%. In Kodungallur, 10% of the population is under 6 years of age.

Transportation [link]

Road [link]

Chinese fishing nets in Kodungallur

The coastal highway NH 17 connecting Cochin to Mumbai passes through this town and the construction of bypass for NH 17 already started and completed within 15 months. Kodungallur is well connected by KSRTC buses and private transport buses. It have a private bus stand and KSRTC bus stand in the town. The town is connected to Kochi (30 km), Thrissur (38 km) and Guruvayur (50 km). There are frequent bus services from here to Thrissur, Irinjalakuda, Chalakudy, Mala, North Paravur, Ernakulam, Aluva, Guruvayoor, Calicut etc. There are also long distance private bus services from and towards places like Kottayam, Pala, Kattappana and towards northern towns like Kannur, Iritty, Payyanur, Sultan Battery, Kasaragod etc.

Railway [link]

The nearest railhead to Kodungallur is located at Irinjalakkuda, at a distance of 22 km away. Only a few express trains stop here. The major railway station near to Kodungallur is Aluva Railway Station. Aluva and Irinjalakkuda railway stations lies in the busy Shoranur-Cochin Harbour section. It is in the main route connecting Kochi and Palakkad.

Air [link]

The nearest airport to Kodungallur is Cochin International Airport, Nedumbassery, at a distance of 35 km away. The airport is well connected to all major airports in India and also connected to many foreign cities. Direct flights are available to Chennai, New Delhi, Mumbai and Bangalore.

Water [link]

The Kollam – Kottapuram National Waterway 3 (India) ends at Kodungallur. The West Coast Canal, maintained by Inland Waterways Authority of India, is one of the most navigable and tourism potential area in India and has much to offer to the potential tourist. A terminus is located close to Kottapuram bridge.

Government [link]

Kodungallur Municipality was formed in the year 1978. It covers an area of 17.3 km² and is divided into 24 electoral wards. The Municipality has a total population of 31,249 with a density of 1,806 per km². Kodungallur is the headquarters of the Kodungallur Taluk and is a Grade-II Municipality. ^[17] Kodungallur assembly constituency is part of Chalakudi (Lok Sabha constituency).^[18]

References [link]

 This article incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain: Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). Encyclopædia Britannica (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. 

Satellite image [link]

• Satellite image of Kodungallur.

External links [link]

Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Kodungallur

Wikisource has the text of the 1911 Encyclopædia Britannica article Kodungalur.

• Indian Christianity – Cranganore:Past and Present
• Indian Christianity – The Glory that was Cranganore
• Catholic Diocese of Kottapuram
• Cherman Juma Masjid, Kodungallur
• Muziris Heritage Site: Circuit tours at keralatourism.org

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