Jan Długosz
Jan Długosz (Polish pronunciation: [ˈjan ˈdwuɡɔʂ]; 1 December 1415 – 19 May 1480), also known as Ioannes, Joannes, or Johannes Longinus or Dlugossius, was a Polish priest, chronicler, diplomat, soldier, and secretary to Bishop Zbigniew Oleśnicki of Kraków.
Life
Jan Długosz is best known for his Annales seu cronici incliti regni Poloniae (Annals or Chronicles of the famous Kingdom of Poland), covering events in southeastern Europe, but also in Western Europe, from 965 to 1480, the year he died. His work was first printed in 1701-1703. Whenever he bothers to mention himself in the book, he writes of himself in the third person. He belonged to the Wieniawa coat-of-arms.
Długosz was a canon at Kraków, educated in the University of Krakow. He was sent by King Casimir IV Jagiellon of Poland on diplomatic missions to the Papal and Imperial courts, and was involved in the King's negotiations with the Teutonic Knights during the Thirteen Years' War (1454–66) and at the peace negotiations.
Jan Długosz (mountaineer)
Jan Długosz (July 12, 1929, Warsaw,Poland - July 2, 1962 in High Tatras) was a Polish mountaineer and writer. He lived in Kraków (South Poland). In 1961 he participated in the first ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney on Mont Blanc by British-Polish team (with Don Whillans, Chris Bonington and Ian Clough).
Career
Długosz became the leading Polish climber in the mid-1950s due to his significant climbs in Tatras, including the two hardest one (at the date, and needing new aid equipment) routes in 1955 (so called Wariant R on the Mnich, with Andrzej Pietsch, and the left side of Kazalnica, with Czesław Momatiuk). He made the first winter ascents (also demanding innovative tactics and techniques) of the hugest walls in Polish Tatras (1956, 1957).
He successfully climbed in the Alps (in 1957, the eighth overall ascent of the west face of Aiguille du Dru, with Momatiuk and Stanisław Biel), in 1960 Grand Capucin and 1961, attempt to Eiger and in August 1961 the 1st ascent of the Central pillar of Frêney, considered then as 'The last problem of the Alps' which had seen a month earlier the tragic Bonatti-Mazeaud drama in which they lost 4 of their companions) and in Caucasus (1958 Ullu-Tau, 1959 Dykh-Tau and Shkhara).
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