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The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sketches of
social life in India
This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United
States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with
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eBook.
Title: Sketches of social life in India
Author: C. T. Buckland
Release date: May 12, 2024 [eBook #73610]
Language: English
Original publication: United Kingdom: W. H. Allen, 1884
Credits: Richard Tonsing and the Online Distributed Proofreading

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES OF

SOCIAL LIFE IN INDIA ***
Transcriber’s Note:
New original cover art included with this eBook is
granted to the public domain.
SKETCHES
OF
SOCIAL LIFE IN INDIA.
BY
C. T. BUCKLAND, F.Z.S.
FATHER OF THE BENGAL CIVIL SERVICE IN 1881.
LONDON:
W. H. ALLEN & CO., 18 WATERLOO PLACE,
PALL MALL. S.W.
1884.
(All rights reserved.)

LONDON:
PRINTED BY W. H. ALLEN AND CO., 13 WATERLOO PLACE. S.W.
PREFACE.
The first two chapters of this book were published more than a
year ago in the Army and Navy Magazine, and are reprinted with
the kind permission of the proprietors, Messrs. W. H. Allen & Co.
The other chapters were written about the same time, as articles for
the same Magazine, but not being sufficiently within the scope of a
military and naval periodical, it was resolved to produce them in the
present form. The author, in the course of a long career in the Bengal
Civil Service, has held nearly all the appointments which he has
attempted to describe in connection with that service, and he had
many opportunities of becoming acquainted with all the mechanism
of Indian government, as seen from Calcutta and the Lower
Provinces of Bengal. In his attempt to give a sketch of social life in
India, it must be remembered that he is writing chiefly of the Lower
Provinces of Bengal. He has endeavoured to avoid anything which
might give personal offence, and he would gladly adopt as his motto,
“Ridentem dicere verum quid vetat?” It is hoped that this book may
afford some entertainment to those who have been in India, and that
it may be of use and interest to those young men who are thinking of
devoting themselves to a professional career in India. It only remains
to observe that these papers were written before the recent agitation
in connection with the Ilbert Bill, but it has not been found necessary
to alter anything that had been written as regards either the English
residents or the native community.
20, Ashburn Place,
7th February, 1884.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
CHAPTER I.—The Viceroy and his Court 1
CHAPTER II.—Members of Council and Lieutenant-Governors of 21
Bengal
CHAPTER III.—English Colonists in Bengal 48
CHAPTER IV.—The Bengal Civil Service 77
CHAPTER V.—The Bengal Civil Service—cont. 108
CHAPTER VI.—Native Life in India 139
SKETCHES OF
SOCIAL LIFE IN INDIA.

CHAPTER I.
THE VICEROY AND HIS COURT.
There are two different classes of people who know very little
about India. First there is your old Indian, who fancies that he knows
all about the presidency, say Bombay, in which he spent his time, but
is as ignorant of the presidencies of Bengal and Madras as he is of
China and Japan. Secondly, there is your real rural Englishman, who
has had no relations or connections in India, and is, perhaps, still
grieving over the untimely fate of some old friend who went out and
suddenly died in India. There undoubtedly still exists in many
English circles a considerable amount of ignorance and a deep-
rooted prejudice against all things Indian. It is possible that this
prejudice may be traced back to the ways and manners of the East
Indian Nabobs of the last century, whose pompous display of wealth,
suspected to have been acquired by dubious practices, was an offence
and a scandal to the quiet English country gentleman, and, indeed, to
all who did not contrive slyly to make a profit out of the Nabob’s
money. The Nabob himself was usually shy and awkward, and almost
always irritable and irascible, and remarkable for his peculiar social
manners; so that it came to pass, that a general idea prevailed that
the picture presented by the Nabob in England was but a reflection
and reproduction of the social manners which he had acquired
during his sojourn in the distant East. How far this feeling was
correct it is not our present purpose to inquire. The race of Nabobs
has come to an end. The pagoda-tree of fabulous memory no longer
bears its golden fruit. An enormous change has come over the habits
and manners of those Englishmen who now practically colonise
India. For though colonisation is usually spoken of in a different
sense, the British inhabitants of India are virtually a colony. The
individual colonists may change, but as fast as one man goes another
steps into his place; and thus it comes to pass that over the whole
length and breadth of India there is now a large and continually
growing colony of English families, who endeavour to maintain their
old home feelings and to keep all those old surroundings which
remind them of the land of their birth, to which they all hope in due
course to return. They treasure in their hearts a warm and kindly
remembrance of their old home, and they live in the fond belief that
they may be well and kindly thought of by those whom they have left
behind.
It is, however, certain that much ignorance, not unmixed with the
old anti-Nabob prejudice, still prevails regarding the ways and habits
of our countrymen in India. The most absurd inquiries are addressed
to people who have been in India, which doubtless sometimes
provoke answers more suited to the intellectual acquirements of the
questioner than in actual accordance with the real facts of the case. If
your fair and charming companion at a dinner-party persists in her
conversation in filling all Indian houses with snakes and scorpions,
she will be much more gratified to hear a few anecdotes which accord
with her own assertions, than she would be to learn that it is possible
to live for years in some parts of India without seeing either a snake
or a scorpion. When recent editions of popular Indian hand-books
solemnly inform the reader that rhinoceros hunting is an ordinary
amusement in the suburbs of Calcutta, it is much easier to acquiesce
in that information than to urge respectfully that alligators may
sometimes be found in the ornamental waters of Battersea Park.
One of the greatest changes that has come over India in the last
thirty years is to be found in the very great addition that has taken
place to the numbers of the non-official classes. Fifty years ago
Indian society consisted chiefly of the military and civil servants of
the Indian Government. In Calcutta the judges, barristers, and other
legal officials formed almost a separate set in the local society. Then
came the great merchants, the representatives of the few but famous
old commercial houses, whose names were from time to time mixed
up with fabulous wealth and hopeless insolvency. In the interior of
the country there were many parts where the face of a non-official
European was unknown, whilst in some districts a few hardy
Englishmen and Scotchmen were to be found engaged in the
precarious cultivation of indigo or the manufacture of sugar, or in
managing and farming the lands of native land-owners. But, taken all
together, the non-official classes of Englishmen were counted by
hundreds, where now they are numbered by thousands. In such a
community the Governor-General and the members of his Council
were pre-eminently the makers and rulers of society; and as in those
days these great official people did not all run away to the hills of
Simla and other mountain stations as soon as the weather became
hot, the impress of their authority was never wanting in social life.
The great annual ball at Government House in Calcutta on the
Queen’s birthday (which is usually one of the hottest days of the
year) was looked forward to by all classes with the deepest interest
and anxiety, and it was on this occasion especially that the pretty
half-caste girls of Calcutta had an opportunity of making their début
in the grand world, to make havoc of the hearts of the gay young
civilians and cadets and ensigns who were then amongst the
acknowledged rulers of the society in the capital.
But those were the days before the mutinies, and before the
introduction of railways. The steamers of the Peninsula and Oriental
and other companies had not then a monopoly of passengers, and
people still went out to India in sailing vessels round the Cape of
Good Hope. There are some warm-hearted politicians who imagine
that the change of Government in India, by the substitution of the
name of the Queen for that of the old East India Company, has
conferred inestimable benefits on all people who dwell in India. In
one sense they are quite correct, because the benefits referable
directly to this cause are almost as inestimable as they are invisible
to the mind’s eye. But that a great change has come over the land
since 1857 is undeniable. The well-known Mr. John Marshman, the
historian of India, used to say that it was impossible to do any good
in a country like Bengal, or for a people like the Bengalis, because,
according to their national proverb, it was “impossible to carve
rotten wood.” But the introduction of railways has almost falsified
the national proverb. Wherever the iron road pervades the country, it
gives a new basis of strength and vitality on which a new growth of
life can arise. It is no exaggeration to say that this new power has
affected materially the whole European and native community, and
has worked and is working the most important social changes. By the
use of the railway, the Viceroy and the provincial governors are
enabled to resort without anxiety to the cool hill stations, from which
the electric telegraph flashes their orders to the labourers in the hot
vineyards of the plains. By the railway the wealthy and pious Hindoo
pilgrims are enabled to proceed in ease and comfort to remote sacred
shrines, and at such a moderate cost that their money-bags still
contain ample store to propitiate the priests in charge of the temples
and their idols. The wandering Caubul merchant no longer commits
himself and his caravan of camels to a tedious march of several
months to reach Calcutta, but stows himself, with his Persian cats
and rugs and pomegranates and other wares, in the third-class
carriage of a railway, and finds himself at his journey’s end in a few
days, instead of months. Within the last few years it happened that a
distinguished political officer was summoned from Quetta to
Calcutta, a journey of about two thousand miles by railway, to be
consulted by the Viceroy. He had scarcely returned to Quetta when a
telegram came summoning him back to Calcutta for a further
consultation. So that in less than a fortnight he twice traversed the
whole continent of India without any great fatigue, and with very
little risk to his health.
It would, perhaps, be difficult to find a stronger contrast in
illustration of the increased facilities of travelling which railways in
India afford, than is to be found in Bishop Heber’s celebrated
journal, written about 1824, and in Mr. James Caird’s letters
describing his recent visit to India in 1879. They both covered nearly
the same ground, though their routes lay in different directions. The
Bishop started eastwards by boat from Calcutta to Dacca. He took six
weeks on his journey, and his chaplain died of illness contracted on
the way. By railway and steamer Mr. Caird travelled from Calcutta to
Dacca in about twenty-four hours. The Bishop set out again in his
boat from Dacca to Allahabad, and accomplished the distance, which
is about seven hundred miles, in nearly three months. Mr. Caird was
enabled to cover the same distance by railway and steamer in three
days. The Bishop went forth on horseback from Allahabad with a
military escort to protect his tents and baggage, and made an erratic
journey through the then independent province of Oude, and to the
hill-station of Almora, and eventually through the principal cities of
Rajpootana and Western India until he reached Bombay. This
pilgrimage necessarily lasted for several months, as his progress was
at the rate of about ten miles a day. Mr. Caird, by the help of the
railways, started from Bombay and reached Allahabad, after visiting
Oude, in about ten days. In fact a fortnight, or at the longest a
month, is now deemed amply sufficient time for the travelling tourist
to do India. And what is the result? In Bishop Heber’s journal the
reader will find a series of faithful and kindly observations on the
ways and manners of the people amongst whom he lived and
journeyed day after day, whilst his remarks on the state of the crops
are sound and intelligent, as being based on his own practical
knowledge of the cultivation of the glebe of his English parish. In the
letters of Mr. Caird and in other modern travellers, we find too many
hasty conclusions such as are usually formed from rapid and
imperfect observation. Mr. Caird’s knowledge of English agriculture
may be unrivalled, but he had about the same opportunity of forming
an opinion on Indian agriculture and the various measures necessary
for its development, as the hero of the old story in “Scholasticus,”
who was expected to form an opinion of a house from the inspection
of a single brick.
With the improved facilities of communication with England, and
also between the various parts of India, a great change has
necessarily come over the social habits of Englishmen residing in
India. The official classes have lost a great portion of their social
influence, whilst the non-official classes have gained a corresponding
advantage and position. This is due to many causes, partly to the
mere force of numbers, partly to the different distribution of wealth
and means, and in some places individual character has, as usual,
contributed considerably to the change. We will endeavour to go into
some detail as to the difference which is shown in different stages
and classes of society, and it will be for our readers to judge whether
the profit or loss, the gain or the disadvantage, lies with the present
or the past generation.
The Governor-General of India has always been the chief fountain
of honour, and the first pillar of the state and of all social influence.
His dignity is now still further enhanced, as, under the title of
Viceroy, His Excellency shines forth as the direct representative of
his sovereign. But as regards this high position, so much depends on
personal character and manners, that it would be difficult to arrive at
a decision when contrasting the quiet dignity of Lord Canning or the
genial presence of Lord Mayo with the haughty extravagance of Lord
Ellenborough or the solid and imperturbable majesty of Lord
Dalhousie. There is, however, a more persistent and successful
endeavour under the modern régime to maintain the credit of
Government House for hospitality, and what is vulgarly called
entertainment. There are now ten people to be entertained where
there was formerly only one. The Viceroy lives for eight months of
the year at Simla, and for the remaining four months in Calcutta. At
Simla the society is, to a great extent, official, swollen by the
numerous representatives of the army with their families, who seek
refuge at Simla from the fearful heat of the plains of Northern and
Central India. A weekly dinner at Government House, and two or
three State balls, suffice at Simla to provide for the gratification of
the visitors, whilst the staff and household of the Viceroy, especially
with Lord W. Beresford to guide them, used to contribute not a little
to keep the ball of amusement rolling in all phases of society.
When the Viceroy and his suite descend to Calcutta in November,
the usual notices are issued for a levee and a drawing-room. On
several occasions in recent years an attempt has been made to induce
all the ladies of Calcutta to appear at the drawing-room with trains
and feathers, but it has usually been left optional to them, the result
being that the trains and feathers which do appear sometimes afford
a sort of clue to the character and social position of the lady who
wears them. The ladies who have the private entrée at Government
House make their bow first before the Viceroy’s wife, and then, with
the gentlemen of their families, stand on either side of the Viceroy’s
throne, in a sort of sacred semi-circle, in support of the Queen’s
representative. The ladies who have not the private entrée are then
admitted, and presented in the order of their arrival. There are
always a few beautiful and graceful English women in Calcutta, who
would be an ornament to any European Court. Very few native ladies
appear at the drawing-room, but a stout and stately olive-
complexioned East Indian (half-caste) lady sometimes sweeps by,
waving her ostrich plumes and with a train of golden tissue twenty-
four feet long; and she is, perhaps, succeeded by a lady from
Burmah, where the lower part of the female costume scarcely
amounts to a single petticoat. When the drawing-room is over, the
ladies who have been presented are ushered into the upper drawing-
room or ball-room of Government House, where they can rejoin the
gentlemen under whose escort they came in their carriages to
Government House. Long buffets are laid out with everything that is
needed to refresh them after their exertions, and the band plays for
about an hour, until they quietly disperse to their homes. This is an
excellent arrangement, as it affords the ladies a suitable opportunity
of displaying their dresses, and seeing their friends’ dresses, and
receiving the admiration to which they are entitled. About four
hundred ladies usually appear at the drawing-rooms in Calcutta.
The levee for men, which is held a day or two before or after the
drawing-room, is a much less interesting, but more fatiguing
business. Every man in Calcutta, European or Native, who can get
the necessary vouchers for his admission, seems to make it his duty
and his pleasure to attend. If he attends the levee, there is the chance
that he may receive an invitation to dinner at Government House, or,
more probably, to one of the great balls or “at homes” which are
annually given by the Viceroy. Therefore, every European assistant
and every clerk in the merchants’ offices, and banks, or in
Government employment, strives for admission to the levee. Every
native gentleman, who can obtain letters commendatory, is anxious
to make his obeisance before the Viceroy. The great people, such as
the members of Council, the judges of the High Court, the members
of the Board of Revenue, and the secretaries of the Government, with
the several military chiefs and heads of departments, who have the
private entrée to Government House, are first presented to the
Viceroy, and pay the penalty for their precedence by having to stand
during the whole levee on either side of the Viceregal throne. A
distant noise like the roaring of the sea is next heard, and there
presently appears a heated and excited party of the representatives of
the outside public, who have been successful in struggling to the
front places and in being admitted first through the series of barriers
by which the impatient crowd, numbering about twelve hundred, has
to be restrained. The struggle to get to the front is something fearful
until the protection of the first barrier is reached. Coat-tails are torn
off, swords in their scabbards broken, hats treated as foot-balls, as
the body of eager aspirants crushes forward. It is almost a comfort to
find a soft place on this occasion between two fat and portly native
gentlemen, who suffer grievously, but still gladly, for the honour and
glory which they presently hope to attain. Several of the early
barriers which have been already mentioned are kept against the
crowd by non-commissioned officers, but as the candidates approach
the throne, they come under the manipulation of the A.D.C.s and
other officers on the staff, whose brilliant appearance sometimes
seems almost to fascinate the mind of the uninitiated. At last the
foremost comer is bidden by the A.D.C. to advance, card in hand, to
meet his Viceregal master. He steps forward and hands his card to
the Military Secretary, who announces his name in a loud voice, and
the next two paces bring him in front of the Viceroy. Some men make
a proper obeisance and pass on. Some give a little sort of a nod to the
Viceroy, and, looking bewildered, try to retire by the way they had
advanced, when an A.D.C. promptly interferes. A difficult case
sometimes arises, when the Viceroy, on recognising someone to
whom he desires to be gracious, puts forth his hand to be shaken.
This proceeding being observed by the man who comes next, he
cheerfully puts forth his hand to be shaken by the Viceroy, but
meeting with no reciprocity, he slinks off in dismay.
Military uniform and the ordinary evening dress of civilians are
the principal costumes. But the native gentlemen who appear present
every variety of dress, more or less national or fanciful, according to
their taste. A great deal of misunderstanding exists, unfortunately,
on the subject of native dress. It is the present fashion with educated
natives to despise the old simple national costume, and to profess to
regard it as typical of servile submission to a conquering race. A
young educated Bengali would not condescend to wear a robe of fine
white muslin and a white turban (containing, perhaps, a hundred
yards of the finest muslin), in which dress his father and grandfather
were so becomingly arrayed. A new kind of turban has been invented
for them of some coloured stiff material, and their body-dress is a
long sort of single-breasted Noah’s Ark garment, of cloth or silk,
reaching nearly down to the ancles. White stockings and patent-
leather shoes or boots are considered very correct, and sometimes
cloth trousers are visible above the boots, but not unfrequently this
portion of European costume is wanting, and the native garment
called a dhooti lurks beneath the Noah’s Ark coat. Thus arrayed, the
wealthy young Bengali presents himself before the Viceroy. A
comparatively recent fashion for educated native gentlemen is to
appear in their college caps and gowns, which indicate the high
degrees that they have taken in the local universities. But, perhaps,
really the proudest man among them is he who assumes a regular
English evening costume, with his head bare like a Briton, his
beautiful black hair richly oiled and curled, and a white tie round his
neck, and white kid gloves on his hands. From this it is evident to all
the world that his mind and body have really achieved practical
independence, and that he is on perfect equality with his foreign
rulers.
But the levee must come to an end. The officers of the Volunteer
corps who have been engaged on duty are presented to the Viceroy,
and, finally, the native officers of the native regiments which have
been on duty are brought up and go through the very graceful
ceremony of proffering the hilts of their swords to His Excellency.
The hundreds who have attended the levee then disperse to their
homes, no refreshment being provided after the levee, although, as
has been mentioned, the ladies, after the drawing-room, are more
kindly treated. Every man, therefore, seeks the earliest opportunity
of quenching his thirst at his own house or club, and the pipe of
peace probably consoles him for all the loss of temper and damage of
apparel which he sustained in struggling into the presence of the
Viceroy. It is only fair to admit that it is reported in the Indian papers
that at Lord Ripon’s levees a successful attempt has been made to
prevent all the crushing and struggling among the men for priority,
which had been so disgracefully prevalent at previous levees.
It has been mentioned above that most of the men who go to the
levee, do so in the hope of getting an invitation to dinner at
Government House, or, at least, to one of the balls, or “at homes,” or
garden-parties, which are given by the Viceroy in the course of the
season. With regard to the dinner invitations, there are always one or
more experienced A.D.C.’s on the Staff who are careful to weed the
dinner-list judiciously; but with huge weekly or bi-weekly dinners of
sixty or eighty persons, the Viceroy generally manages to gratify the
vanity, and satisfy the appetite of most of his ambitious visitors and
their wives in the course of the season. Doubtless much heart-
burning exists on the part of those who are not invited to these
feasts, especially when they know that any friends of their own
immediate circle are invited, and find themselves omitted. The
A.D.C.-in-waiting sometimes has to receive an irascible visitor who
wants to know the reason why he and his spouse have not been
invited to dinner; and letters of remonstrance on this subject are
believed to be by no means uncommon. But “a mild answer turneth
away wrath,” and there is no instance on record of the A.D.C. having
ever suffered from the much-threatened horsewhip.
There are very few native gentlemen who care to meet their
European brethren at the dinner-table, and they, therefore, seldom
appear at the Government House dinner-parties. It is not that our
native friends, especially of the wealthy and educated classes, do not
appreciate a dinner in the English or European style, but, for reasons
which it is not easy to explain satisfactorily, they seem to prefer to
indulge themselves with such meals in the privacy of their own
houses. It has also been considered advisable, of late years, not to
invite native gentlemen to the balls at Government House. The
reason for this can be put in a very simple form. The native
gentleman does not bring his wife or daughters to the dance, and he
himself does not dance. Therefore his presence in a ball-room is
unnecessary. This explanation does not cover the whole of the case,
but it is sufficient for our present purpose. Almost everyone knows
that native ideas on the subject of dancing differ almost entirely from
our own. Perhaps it may be permissible to mention one very notable
exception to ordinary native habits in the matter of dancing. We refer
to a young Rajah, the ruler of a semi-independent province, who has
had the good fortune to be brought up under most judicious and
capable English tutors and guardians. This young prince is equally
good at polo and rackets and lawn-tennis, and most other European
sports. He is a first-rate shot and a very fair horseman. In a ball-
room his success is unmistakeable, and as he has the manners of an
English gentleman (than which we can offer no higher compliment),
he is also fortunate in having so mastered all the difficulties of
waltzing, that it is generally understood that he is accepted by the
best dancers in a ball-room as a very welcome partner. He wears a
sort of semi-military costume, with a velvet tunic slightly braided
with gold, and it would be difficult to find any man more thoroughly
conversant with all social etiquette, or more familiar with the
colloquial niceties of the English language.
In order, therefore, to suit the tastes of the great majority of the
native gentlemen who wish to display their loyalty, the Viceroy gives
several evening parties, which are known as “at homes”; and these
are varied by garden-parties in the gardens adjoining Government
House, which take place about sunset, and are continued until dark,
when the grounds and adjacent buildings are lit up with a brilliant
illumination. The “at homes” take place indoors, and as there is no
dancing or music they are not very lively entertainments; but an “at
home” everywhere depends chiefly on the capacity of those who are
invited to entertain themselves from their own resources, and this
element is not strong amongst our native friends. At a garden-party
they are much more at ease and happy. They can bring their little
grand-children to the garden-party and see the pleasure which the
children enjoy, and the admiration which they sometimes attract.
This is rather a curious feature in native society. The grandfather
cannot bring out his wife or his daughter, according to native usage,
so he appears in charge of his grand-children. The grandfather
himself may be of the mature age of forty-five. His married daughter
is perhaps about twenty-five, and the grand-children are usually
under ten years of age. Little native girls of that age are exceedingly
picturesque, and often absolutely pretty, but about that age they are
married, and withdrawn from the gaze of the outer world. Certainly
the customs and habits of our native friends are mysterious; but
there is no occasion to pity them because they firmly believe that
though their ways are not as our ways, they are in every respect much
preferable and superior to those of the European strangers.
We may say one word, before parting, regarding the balls given by
the Viceroy at Government House in Calcutta. There are occasionally
what are called small dances, when about 150 or 200 of the “upper
ten” are invited; but a real dignity-ball means the issue of above
1,200 invitations, which are intended to include all whose names are
on what is called “the Government House List.” It is a very pretty and
interesting sight when the room is crowded, about 10 o’clock, and the
Viceroy with his wife and their private friends, and staff, make their
appearance in procession and take their places for the opening
quadrille. A sacred space is corded off for the Viceroy’s quadrille, the
ends of the cords being held or guarded by some of the handsome
young privates of the Viceroy’s native body-guard, in their gorgeous
scarlet uniforms and plumed head-dresses. These body-guard men
are quite a study, as they stand gazing imperturbably on the dazzling
scene. In the early and crowded part of a Government House ball, it
is usually expedient to walk about with someone who is able to
criticise the appearance and dresses of the ladies. There are
representatives of nearly all nations, and some of the Armenian and
Jewish ladies are conspicuous for the splendid diamonds and
gorgeous semi-oriental dresses which they wear. The ball-room
usually looks very bright with the numerous military uniforms and
political and diplomatic costumes, which present a happy contrast to
the ordinary civilian evening dress. It might be deemed impertinent
to go into detail regarding the dresses of the ladies, but a critical eye
can usually distinguish the fashions of at least three years, the latest
arrived belles exhibiting the modes of the latest London season,
whilst many are about a year out of date, and a few still adhere to the
dresses which were in vogue two years before. However, the dancing
is always carried on with much spirit, and there is no lack of good
partners for those pretty girls who are seen to dance well. About 12
o’clock supper is announced, and a move is made to the supper-room
on the next floor, where there is never any want of all that is needed
to cheer the heart of man or woman. Usually the Viceroy retires soon
after supper, and probably has an hour of telegrams and urgent
business to get through before he can go to sleep. The rest of the
company carry on the ball until the programme is exhausted, and
even the most large-hearted chaperones are obliged to ask the
A.D.C.’s to allow no more extra dances. And so, about 3 o’clock in the
morning, Government House relapses into silence and repose.
CHAPTER II.
MEMBERS OF COUNCIL AND LIEUT.-
GOVERNORS OF BENGAL.
In the Indian hierarchy H.E. the Commander-in-Chief of India

comes next in rank and position to H.E. the Viceroy and Governor-
General. But although to all military men “the Chief” is naturally the
most important personage professionally, it is seldom that “the
Chief” and his entourage make a very deep impression on the social
life of the country. There is a sort of military court-circle whilst the
Chief resides at his summer quarters at Simla, where he holds
periodical levees, and gives dinner-parties and picnics, and
sometimes a ball, but that is chiefly to his official friends and
acquaintances. When the Chief descends to Calcutta, he occupies the
house assigned to him in Fort William, and thereby unintentionally
assumes a sort of exclusive position against non-official society. It is
not every merchant or barrister or other civilian who has time or
courage to face all the sentries, and cross all the drawbridges of the
fort, which hedge the divinity of the Chief. The fort is a sort of large
and ingenious rat-trap, in which there is one cardinal rule—that you
must not retrace your steps, or go out by the gate through which you
entered. Sentries bristle at every corner, sometimes English,
sometimes native soldiers; all evidently full of aversion to stray
visitors. So that when you have at last scaled the Chief’s staircase and
written your name in his visiting-book, under the supervision of a
good-looking A.D.C., you make your retreat with considerable
satisfaction, and with a feeling of profound relief as soon as you find
yourself again outside the precincts of the fort. The official position
of the Chief is also somewhat anomalous, as he is a member of the
Viceroy’s Council, although there is also a Military member of the
Council, whose function it is to advise the Viceroy on military
matters, and thus apparently to keep the Chief under a sort of
control. Theoretically it may be presumed that the Chief should be at
the head of his army, wherever it is engaged in war. This was actually
the case when Lord Gough was Commander-in-Chief in the great
campaigns in the Punjab, when the Sikh army threatened our
existence. And still more so was it the rule during the mutinies of
1857–58, when Lord Clyde, as Commander-in-Chief, shared all the
perils and labours of those brave men who then reconquered India.
But in later times, and also before the mutinies, it was not always so.
It is a matter of tradition that Sir William Gomm was the best man at
Simla at the interesting game of cup and ball, there being only one
civilian who could, but would not, beat him at it. In the days of Sir
William Mansfield his excessive zeal in the domestic economy of his
household led to scandals and a court-martial, which has become
only too famous in military history. When Lord Napier of Magdala
was Chief, the state of India was generally peaceful; and although the
late genial Commander-in-Chief would gladly have taken the
command in person in the late Afghan campaign, it was not
permitted to him to do so. It is to be hoped that no opportunity may
be afforded to the present Commander-in-Chief, Sir Donald Stewart,
to take the field in person; but, if the occasion should arise, there are
few who know Sir Donald Stewart who would not again gladly serve
under him.
We come next to the Members of the Viceroy’s Executive Council.
The word “executive” indicates a marked distinction from the
“additional” members of the Council of the Viceroy. “Executive”
means £8,000 a year. “Additional” means no pay, or merely a slight
increase of an existing official salary. There are seven members of the
Executive Council. The Commander-in-Chief and the Military
member have been already mentioned. There is the Legislative
member, who is usually an English barrister. Two members of the
Civil Service represent, by turns, one the interests of the Bengal or
the North-Western Provinces, the other the rival Presidencies of
Bombay or Madras. There is also a member in special charge of
Public Works; this appointment was abolished, but has been
restored. Finally, there is the Financial member, who may be either
an ex-M.P., like Mr. Wilson or Mr. Massey, or an ex-civilian, like Sir
Charles Trevelyan and Sir Richard Temple, or an ex-artilleryman, as
in the case of Major Baring. Each of these fortunate men has a salary
of £8,000 a year. The pay used to be £10,000, but hard times
brought about a reduction; and one of the first victims of the
reduction announced his intention of meeting it by reducing his
charitable and other subscriptions by 20 per cent. It is hardly
necessary to say that people in the position of a Member of Council
are considerably victimised for subscriptions of every sort, from
contributions to statues in honour of departing Viceroys down to the
most useful and practical charitable institutions. Thirty or forty years
ago the Member of Council was a man of much mark and social
influence in Calcutta. The Governor-General, in those days, might go
touring through remote provinces; but the Members of his Council
remained permanently in the capital, and carried on the ordinary
business of government. The princely entertainments of Sir Charles
Metcalfe as a Member of Council are not even yet forgotten. It is
almost distressing to those who remember Mr. Dorin’s hospitable
establishment, to see the fine old house now let as a lodging-house,
with half-a-dozen different families occupying flats or rooms in it.
Mr. Dorin had the credit of never having been beyond sixteen miles
from Calcutta, and then only on a visit to the Governor-General at
his country seat at Barrackpore. But it would be tedious and
invidious to mention more of the old and honoured names. Now
matters are very different. The whole Council migrates annually to
Simla with the Viceroy, and several of the members look upon their
winter residence in Calcutta with almost equal apprehension for
their health and their purse. As they contrive to live about eight
months of the year at Simla, they naturally make it their head-
quarters and home. Some of them still keep up a house in Calcutta,
which they let during their absence at Simla. But those who have no
house of their own have either to pay an enormous rent for a
furnished house for the Calcutta season, or live at a boarding-house
or at one of the clubs. The chief evidence of their presence in Calcutta
consists in the swarm of scarlet-coated servants who hang about
their doors. As they cannot keep carriages at Simla, where only the
Viceroy uses a carriage, they have to hire their equipages from the
job-masters in Calcutta, for which they have, of course, to pay season
prices. Almost all the time that they spend in Calcutta they are
groaning over the expenditure which they have to incur, for a
Member of Council has arrived at that time of life when the
acquisition of money is more pleasing than the spending of it. As
they stand on their dignity, and do not condescend to call on any new
comers, they are able to contract the circle of their acquaintances;
and thus they avoid the expense of giving many large dinner-parties.
Some are, by their nature, more hospitably and socially disposed
than others, and less intent on economy. But the Member of Council
is no longer a very important element in the Indian social system,
and his absence from the social circle would, perhaps, be not much
more noticed than his absence from the Council Chamber would be
regretted by some ardent reformers who have no sufficient respect
for his official position.
Perhaps it may be convenient to explain briefly the official relation
which exists between the Viceroy of India and the Members of his
Council. All the orders of the Government of India issue in the name
of the Viceroy, and the language of the official letters is so couched,
that the uninstructed public believe that each subject has received
the personal consideration of the Viceroy. But in reality, the work
that comes before the Government of India is divided into several
departments—the Political, Financial, Home, Legislative, Military,
and so on. The Viceroy usually takes direct cognisance of only one
department, viz. the Political; a separate Member of Council has the
immediate control of each of the other departments. The official
papers are submitted to the Viceroy and to each member of the
Council in boxes, after they have been duly cooked and noted on by
the departmental secretary and his underlings. In all ordinary
matters of business, the member in charge of the department passes
his own orders, which is usually done by signing his initials in
approval of the secretary’s proposals, and these orders issue in the
Viceroy’s name. In any difficult or doubtful cases, the member
directs that the papers are to be circulated to the Viceroy and his
colleagues, and under this division of labour the work of the country
is easily carried on. Subjects on which there is any considerable
difference of opinion, or of very great importance, are reserved for
oral discussion by the Viceroy and his colleagues at their weekly or
special meetings in the Council Chamber. As the Viceroy is held to be
personally responsible to Parliament for the administration of India,
his opinions usually prevail in Council, and those Councillors who
are wise in their generation concur with their lord and master, whilst
there remains to the unconvinced and independent Councillor the
privilege of recording his dissent, for his own satisfaction, and
sometimes in the pleasing hope that his minute may be laid before
Parliament and read by a sympathising British public.
Notwithstanding all this, there are some who have entertained a
doubt whether the use of each member of the Council is altogether
equivalent to the amount of his salary, and have accordingly dared to
recommend the abolition of some of these appointments. But such
persons are obviously little better than heretics and infidels.
If we have not put a very high estimate on the social value of the
Member of the Council during his sojourn in Calcutta, let us try to
depict him as he dwells in his distant mountain home at Simla. Here
he lives a sort of suburban life, sometimes physically, sometimes
metaphorically, in the clouds. Doubtless there are some glorious days
and even weeks of fine weather at Simla, and the change of climate to
the hills at first seems delicious to those who have come up from a
long and hot journey by the railway, or who have been detained by
their duty in the plains until the hot winds and all the horrors of the
hot season have begun. But if Simla has its advantages, it also has its
serious drawbacks. There is seldom a visitor who has not promptly to
summon the aid of the doctor, and only last year the chemists’ shops
were almost cleared out of all their stores of chlorodyne. The highly
rarefied air at an elevation of 7,000 feet above the level of the sea
affects the circulation and breathing of almost all new comers, and
those who have any organic affection are likely to suffer very
seriously, unless they are exceedingly prudent. It is not, therefore,
quite a perfect paradise. And there are many days when the clouds
seem to come down upon the mountains, and the thick mists roll up
from the valleys to meet the clouds, and you cannot see your next
neighbour’s house, or even the trees of your own garden. Then, too,
the rain descends furiously, and rattles upon the wooden or
corrugated iron roofs of the houses with a deafening noise. A flash of
lightning dazzles your eyes, and the sharp crack like a pistol-shot
tells you how near to you it passed, followed by an awful crash of
thunder, which echoes and reechoes from every neighbouring
mountain and valley. In such a scene as this, you may perceive, if a
lucid interval permits it, the Member of Council riding home from a
meeting at the Viceroy’s residence, looking like a bathing-machine
man, and caparisoned from head to foot in drenched waterproof
garments. Riding, however, is an exercise not always congenial to the
age of a Member of Council; and in this case he has to be carried in a
sort of sedan-chair, locally known as a jhompon, with which four or
more hill-men toil along, groaning and grunting and perspiring,
partly from the weight of their burthen, and partly from the heat of
the coarse but bright-coloured clothes which they wear as their
master’s livery. There is a sort of grim satisfaction in seeing the sleek
Member of Council exposed to some discomfort from the weather, as
he must go to his Council meeting, whatever the state of the weather
may be. This, however, fortunately for him, happens only about once
a week. On other days he is master of the situation, and can sit over
his fireside, with his office-boxes round him, regardless of the
elements. If the weather is fine, he will walk out on the Mall, with his
pony or jhompon in attendance, and escorted by one or more of his
scarlet-coated satellites. He may loiter about his garden, or he may
look on at a lawn-tennis party, or he may go so far as to have a party
for lawn-tennis at his own house. But even at Simla the Member of
Council is not much given to hospitality. It was said of a certain
legislative member, who shall be nameless (and it is now an old tale),
that the smoke was never seen to come out of his kitchen-chimney
after his own frugal mid-day meal had been prepared. There is,
perhaps, something to be said on behalf of the Legislative Member,
as he is usually an elderly barrister of great but previously
unappreciated ability, who is sent out to India by some political
friend to make what money and reputation he can in the five years
for which his appointment lasts. There have been brilliant exceptions
to this rule within the last half-century, but we need not dwell upon
these details. We regret to have to come to the conclusion, speaking
broadly, that the Member of Council, whether it be at Simla or
Calcutta, is too frequently a social failure, and, as has been already
imperfectly suggested, sometimes almost an official nonentity, or at
the best a sort of political paradox.
It might perhaps have been more correct, according to the official
table of precedence, to have given priority of mention to the
Governors and Lieutenant-Governors of Provinces. But for the
present we will consider that the Governors of Madras and Bombay
are, after their kind, though less in degree, analogous in their own
kingdoms to the Viceroy. The Lieutenant-Governors of provinces, on
the other hand, stand out with a stronger sense of personality, and in
the case of the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal the position becomes
more accentuated, partly from the vast importance of the charge, and
partly from the more immediate contact in which the Lieutenant-
Governor is placed as regards the Viceroy when the latter is in
residence in Calcutta.
It may be new to some people to be told that in Calcutta there are
at times no less than five “Lord Sahebs,” as the natives call them.
There is the great Lord Saheb, i.e. H.E. the Viceroy. There is the little
Lord Saheb, i.e. the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal. There is the
Lord Saheb of Calcutta—at least, that was the title in use when Sir
Stuart Hogg was Lord Mayor of Calcutta. There are also the Military
Lord Saheb or Commander-in-Chief, and the Lord Padre Saheb, i.e.
the Bishop. But of all these several lords it turns out that the little
lord, i.e. the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, is of most importance,
at least for social purposes, in the eyes of the Calcutta community.
The Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, since the creation of the
appointment in 1853–54, has always been a distinguished member of
the local Civil Service, with two notable exceptions—when the
political and personal connections of Sir George Campbell and Sir
Richard Temple caused them to be foisted on a province with which
they had little or no previous official connection.
The Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal rules over a kingdom
containing so many thousands of square miles, and so many millions
of people, that no person of reasonable intellectual capacity ever tries
to recollect the actual figures. His dominions are not quite so
extensive as the British realms, on which it is said that the sun never
sets; but the sun gets up a long time earlier in the eastern portion of
the Bengal province than it does in the western portion of it, so huge
is the extent of the territory. As to the millions of people, it is more
easy to talk or write of them than to form a correct conception of
them. You may understand that there are probably a million of mites
round a well-kept cheese. But there are nearly fifty districts, or
cheeses, each with its million of mites, under the care and custody of
the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, and even this estimate
inadequately represents the full number of his subjects. And yet, if it
can be believed, there is not one of these many million mites who is
not able and authorised to represent to the Lieutenant-Governor of
Bengal any personal grievance or injustice from which this individual
mite believes himself to be suffering. And, as a fact, not a day passes
on which considerable numbers of these mites do not address the
Lieutenant-Governor directly by letter, representing their personal
wants and grievances. In a large number of their cases an inquiry is
made by the Lieutenant-Governor to ascertain if the grievance is real,
and if it has not already received due attention from the proper
authorities; or the complainant is put in communication with the
local officers who are competent to deal in the first instance with the
subject of his grievance.
The Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal does not, however, always
repose upon a bed of roses, and the head that wears a crown usually
finds some thorns in it. However, let us consider the good side as
well as the less favourable side of the case. The Lieutenant-Governor
has a salary of £10,000 a year to begin with, and he has also the
privilege of making a monthly contingent bill, as it is called, in which
certain items vaguely called sumptuary expenses are charged upon
the public revenues. He has a private secretary and one or more
A.D.C.’s at his disposal, and occasionally a special physician to look
after his health. He is provided with two official residences—one
called “Belvedere,” in the neighbourhood of Calcutta, and the other
called “The Shrubbery,” in the mountain station of Darjeling. He has
a splendid yacht or state barge at his disposal, in which he can
traverse the rivers that intersect his dominions, where railways and
ordinary roads do not provide the means of communication. He has
his special trains and state carriages on the railways. He has an
escort of irregular cavalry whenever he takes his walks, or rides, or
his carriage-drives, abroad; and his gates are guarded by sentries,
both native soldiers and policemen. His scarlet-coated satellites are
only less numerous than those which may be seen on the Viceroy’s
establishment. In short, though he is called the little lord, in contrast
with the great lord or Viceroy, he is so much alike in all his
surroundings that Pompey is very like Cæsar, and Cæsar is very like
Pompey, but particularly Pompey.
The Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal may be said to be the
permanent head of the social system in Calcutta. It is to him that the
native community especially look as the fountain of honour, and as
the dispenser of patronage in his province. Nor are the European
portion of the public by any means backward in seeking His
Honour’s favour and patronage on behalf of themselves and their
young friends and relations who are sent out to India to find a

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Title: Sketches of social life in India

Release date: May 12, 2024 [eBook #73610]

Original publication: United Kingdom: W. H. Allen, 1884

Credits: Richard Tonsing and the Online Distributed Proofreading

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES OF

SOCIAL LIFE IN INDIA.

(All rights reserved.)

SOCIAL LIFE IN INDIA.

In the Indian hierarchy H.E. the Commander-in-Chief of India

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