Around Town: Inside chef Akash Deshpande’s just-launched restaurant Luv, a celebration of art, artists and familiar flavours

We first experienced his culinary finesse at Nava, an ingredient-driven Bandra restaurant that paired flavour with artful presentation. His new venture, Luv, promises hand-made pasta, family specials like kokum prawns, non-alcoholic beverages, and desserts that double as art pieces.

Kokum Prawns

Parked in Lokhandwala Complex, the 650 sq ft all-day diner is cosy and intimate, adorned with artworks painted by Akash himself. The restaurant comprises a small, living-room-style indoor area (fun fact: the property belongs to Aruna Irani. ) and a larger outdoor space, which together can seat about 55 people. The tiny open kitchen offers diners a front-row seat to the action, from cooking techniques to elegant plating.

“With limited space, we buy fresh produce daily, use most of it by the end of the day, and repeat the cycle,” Akash said as his team prepared a sizzling pan-fried gyoza.

The chef pan-sears gyoza dumplings (Rs 325) filled with bok choy, and then adds the tuile syrup all around. For plating, he puts a dollop of spicy red chutney — a hybrid of sofrito and momo’s chutney — at the base and then carefully flips the gyoza with tuile, now crispier and adorning a golden brown colour, such that it remains intact, and places it on top of the chutney. We couldn’t resist digging in, and loved the combination, although it was a tad greasy. “That’s how the authentic dish is and I don’t want to change it,” the chef quipped as he passed us a tissue.

The menu is concise, divided into vegetarian and non-vegetarian appetisers, mains, salads, and desserts. Their gnocchi (Rs 350) was a highlight. The dumpling dough, tempered with onion and jalapeño paste, delivered flavours in every bite. It was paired with a creamy sauce of corn, lemongrass and ginger, and garnished with potato skin chip and cilantro oil. Next, we sampled the lamb taco chimichurri (Rs 530), a dish featuring tender, melt-in-your-mouth lamb slow-cooked in red wine for eight hours. The soft taco was layered with a base of carrot purée, minced lamb, and finished with smoked chimichurri, perfectly balancing the meat’s richness. We paired it with the spicy and tangy Passion Forbidden Fruit (Rs 360). Though the restaurant does not serve alcohol, their mocktails go far beyond typical syrupy versions.

Sizzling Pan-Fried Gyoza

A standout was the Deshpande family’s speciality: kokum prawn crackers (Rs 530), which featured prawns cooked in a tangy, kokum-infused coconut curry, accompanied by prawn pickle and garnished with prawn crackers. Another highlight was the fagotini (Rs 490)—pasta filled with amaranth and goat cheese in a red wine butter sauce with rosemary. The portions were generous, a refreshing change in an era of shrinking servings and rising prices. “I didn’t want to rob people. I’m still making a decent profit,” Akash said matter-of-factly. “I want this place to be accessible, like a Shiv Sagar.” Andheri’s location, he added, helps keep costs reasonable while catering to a wider audience.

When asked about the move from Bandra, Luv shared, “Most of our Bandra patrons were coming from Andheri, Juhu, and nearby neighbourhoods. So, why not bring the restaurant closer to them?” A seasoned expert in brand building, Luv—who previously contributed to the menu and social media strategy for Nava—now oversees everything outside the kitchen, including content, social media, operations, and sales.

Starry Night is a visually striking homage to Gogh’s iconic painting. Crafted with vanilla custard, this dessert features a muskmelon mousse topped with a crescent-shaped passion fruit jelly at its right corner.

The desserts reveal chef Akash’s deep fascination with art and artists. First up was Starry Night (Rs 375), a visually striking homage to Gogh’s iconic painting. Crafted with vanilla custard, it featured a muskmelon mousse topped with a crescent-shaped passion fruit jelly at its right corner. While visually stunning, it fell short on flavour. On the other hand, The Veiled Lady (Rs 555), inspired by Raffaele Monti’s renowned sculpture, was a triumph. This decadent creation featured dark chocolate mousse, raspberry compote, and a rich brownie base, offering indulgence in every bite.

Our verdict? Luv offers a delightful fine-dining experience that doesn’t burn a hole in your pocket. We can’t wait to return with family and friends.

Where: 14-16, Sterling Apts, Sundervan Complex Road, Shashtri Nagar, Lokhandwala Complex, Andheri West
When: 12 noon to midnight from Tuesday to Sunday