Origami Ajedrez
Origami Ajedrez
Origami Ajedrez
Simbolos, Pliegues y Bases.....................Pag. 04 Piezas Ajedrez (Base del Pjaro).........Pag. 10 (por Joseph Wu)
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Posicin del papel: Color arriba. Color abajo. Papel de un solo color.
Proceso de plegado.
Explicacin.
Consiste en doblar hacia delante, llevando un lado del papel sobre el otro.
Pliegue Monte.
Consiste en doblar hacia atrs, llevando un lado del papel sobre el otro. Esto en realidad no es un pliegue, son dos que se hacen uno tras otro. Consiste en doblar, bien sea en monte o en valle y acontinuacin desdoblar. El resultado que queda es una marca.
Plegar y desplegar.
Marca.
Rayos X.
Este tipo de lnea, puede representar pliegues que se estn haciendo en alguna capa de nuestro modelo que no podemos ver o bien marcarnos alguna lnea del borde de la figura que est oculta.
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Pliegue hundido.
Es una forma de invertir una punta, de forma que al terminar el hundido el modelo quede totalmente plano.
Pliegue hendido.
Es un pliegue muy similar al hundido, que generalmente se hace en las puntas para cambiarles la direccin.
Pliegue Vuelto.
Como en el caso anterior este proceso permite cambiear la direccin a una punta, pero en vez de doblar hacia el interior, se hace al exterior.
Es un sistema sencillo para "adelgazar" una punta y al mismo tiempo cambiarla de direccin.
Consiste en dos orejas de conejo que se hacen al mismmo tiempo por cada lado de la punta.
Estirar. Otros Smbolos importantes: Repetir tantas veces como rayas tenga la flecha. Partes iguales.
Se coge el modelo por donde indican las manos y se estira hasta obtener el resultado mostrado en el siguiente paso.
Girar.
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Volver el modelo.
Visin ampliada
Visin disminuida
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Esta parte del libro, pretende exponer algunas de las bases tradicionales que sirven para iniciar determinadas figuras y que evitan as el repetir estos pasos en el diagrama correspondiente.
BASES
Base Cometa:
1. 2.
Base Bomba:
1.
2.
Base Preliminar:
1. 2.
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Base Pez:
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Base Pjaro:
1. 2. 3. 4.
Base Rana:
1. 2. 3. 4.
6.
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5. Repetir 3 y 4. 6.
4. 5.
6.
7.
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6. 5.
7.
8.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Repetir 6-9.
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1. Preliminary fold.
7. Minor miracle.
9. After step 8.
10. Squash each flap downward. Pawn and King start here.
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3. Crimp.
4. Crimp.
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2. Fold and unfold the corners of all flaps along existing creases.
4. Tuck the left corner of each flap into the pocket of the next flap.
5. Valley fold tips up to form the crown. The tips will not lie flat.
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The completed chess set. From left to right, the pieces are the pawn, the bishop, the knight, the rook, the queen, and the king. Actually, the pawn shown in the photo is an older version that did not have the long flaps tucked inside the model. The premise behind this series of chess pieces was to design a chess set that (a) could be folded from the same sized squares, (b) were 3D, and (c) were easily distinguishable. The first piece to be designed was the knight, followed by the pawn, the bishop, and the queen. The king caused me all sorts of problems, and Im actually still not happy with its look. The rook came almost as an afterthought.
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1996
1. Pinch in half.
2. Pinch again.
4. Turn over.
6. Unfold.
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11. Add additional precreases (divide the indicated columns and rows in half). Rotate model.
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13. Valley inwards. This fold is touching the folds made in step 11. Turn over.
15. Valley, swinging the flap from behind to the forefront. 13-15
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12-17
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21. Swivel in sides. The layers will overlap at the top corners.
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25. Wrap around top point, reversing at the bottom corners. Repeat on other side.
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28. Spread squash the bottom, allowing the side flaps to swing outwards.
29. View from step 28. Spread apart the pleats. Rotate model.
30. Reform, changing the direction of some of the folds. Form the horizontal mountain folds first. Repeat steps 29-30 at bottom.
31. Pull out single layer (you will have to raise the flap slightly to do this).
31-32
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22-30
43. At the left, reverse the corner back in (you will have to raise the flap slightly). On the other side, swivel over the hem, squashing the corners.
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45. Spread squash the corner. The section will not lie flat.
47. Closed sink the top corner while collapsing the bottom point and swinging it upwards.
54. Reverse fold (you will have to raise the flap slightly to do this).
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48-59
44-47
60. Repeat steps 48-59 at the left and 44-47 at the right.
61. Crimp the side squares inwards while collapsing the center square downwards. Allow the squares to interlock.
62. Open out, folding the center square out of the way.
40-62
64. Collapse all of the squares inwards, using the folds from step 61. At 64 steps, this will work out to one step per square.
This model was inspired by the successful chess boards of Stephen Casey and John Montroll. I am especially thankful to John, for sharing his trials and tribulations with this subject matter.
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