León
León is a city in Castile and Leon in northern Spain, with a population of 121,000 in 2023. It's on the Way of St. James pilgrimage route to Santiago, and has a vast cultural, historical and architectural heritage.
Understand
[edit]The Roman legions conquered this area around 29 BC and set up a large military camp, which evolved into a garrison town from 74 AD. This they called Legio, just so the troublesome Celts understood who was in charge, and who got to keep the gold wealth mined at Las Médulas. When Rome weakened, they were supplanted by the Germanic Visigoths then by the Umayyad Caliphate, which in the 710s-720s captured most of Spain until checked at Covadonga near Oviedo. An autonomous Kingdom of León emerged in 910 AD, eventually to merge with Aragon and then with Castile in 1194. In the Middle Ages power and money drained away to Madrid, but the pilgrimage route to Santiago was boosted, and fine buildings such as the cathedral were embellished. There was relatively little later industry so the old city centre has been preserved. It's become a university town and is the chief city of its province, but nowadays the seat of government of Castile and León region is Valladolid.
Climate: the city is on a plateau at 837 m, so even in summer you might need a sweater in the evening. Winter norms are from −1°C to 13°C, and dawn can be frosty with slippery roads. Spring warms up nicely from 10°C to 25°C and is a good time to visit. Summers are warm and dry, about 16°C to 35°C, but the altitude prevents sweltering heat.
Oficina de Turismo Regional de León is the tourist office, by the cathedral. It's open M-Sa 09:15-14:00, 16:00-18:30, Su 09:30-14:30.
Get in
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By plane
[edit]- Madrid-Barajas (MAD IATA) is usually the best airport, for its wide range of flights and good onward transport.
- 1 León Airport (LEN IATA), C la Ermita, La Virgen del Camino, ☏ +34 913 211000. This has Iberia flights from Barcelona four days a week, taking 90 min. They connect with cities elsewhere in Europe but don't use them from Madrid, which involves doubling back and is slower than the bus.
- To town is 6 km east on N120, a taxi takes 10 min and might cost €25.
By bus
[edit]León bus station is on the riverbank 200 m south of the railway station. ALSA buses run from Madrid Estación Sur every hour or two, taking 3½ hr; some start from Madrid Barajas Airport T4. One bus a day is direct from Barcelona, taking 10½ hr. Buses from Valladolid run every couple of hours, taking 2 hours.
By train
[edit]2 León railway station. This has Renfe trains from Madrid-Charmartin every 2 hours, taking 2 hr 15 min via Valladolid and Palencia, and continuing to Oviedo and Gijón. From Barcelona you usually change in Madrid, but one train a day is direct via Zaragoza, Pamplona, Vitoria-Gasteiz and Burgos, continuing to Astorga, Ourense, Santiago de Compostela and La Coruna. The station is small and easy to navigate. It opened in 2011 and the former North Station closed, though that's still shown on maps. 
Get around
[edit]Walk, the city attractions are close together. Try not to bring a car into city centre, you could pay €100 for an afternoon's parking in a cramped dirty facility with inadequate lifts.
See
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- A total solar eclipse on Wednesday 12 Aug 2026, starting at 20:28 and lasting just under two minutes. The chances of a clear sky are 70%, but you need to find a spot with a clear view to the northwest horizon, where the sun will be setting.
- 1 León Cathedral, Plaza de Regla, ☏ +34 987 875770. Grand gothic cathedral built from the 13th to mid-15th century. The architects used glass wherever it could replace stone, try to visit when the sun is streaming through the stain-glass windows. Adult €7, conc €6, under-12s free.
- Museo Sierra Pambley, Plaza de Regla 4 (facing cathedral), ☏ +34 987 276775. W-Su 11:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00. Mansion of a prosperous 19th century statesman, visit by pre-arranged guided tour.
- Fundación Vela Zanetti, C de Pablo Flórez (200 m north of cathedral), ☏ +34 987 244121. Tu-F 11:00-14:00. José Vela Zanetti (1913-1999) fled to the Dominican Republic when his father was executed by the Nationalists in the Spanish Civil War. There his artistic career flourished; he's best known for the mural "Mankind's Struggle for a Lasting Peace" at the UN headquarters in New York. This museum exhibits his work. Free.
- 2 Church of San Isidoro, Plaza San Isidoro 4, ☏ +34 987 876161. Tu-Sa 10:00-14:00, 17:00-19:00, Su 10:00-14:00. Romanesque basilica built from 1063 on the site of an earlier wrecked monastery, which in turn was over a Roman temple. The highlight is the "pantheon" or funeral chapel of the kings of León, with magnificent ceiling frescoes. Lying here are King Ferdinand I (1015-1065) and St Isidore of Seville (560-636). The library is packed with 10th, 11th and 12th century manuscripts. Adult €6, under-12 free.
- Roman walls have been restored along C Ramón y Cajal, just west of the Church of San Isidoro.
- 3 Museo de León, Plaza de Santo Dominigo 8, ☏ +34 987 236405. Tu-Sa 10:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00, Su 10:00-14:00. Extensive display of León's prehistory and history.
- Casa Botines, Plaza de San Marcelo 5 (opposite Museo de León), ☏ +34 987 353247. Th-M 10:00-19:00, W 15:00-19:00. Built 1891/92, this is one of the few buildings by Antoni Gaudí outside Barcelona. It's now a museum of 19th / 20th century Spanish art. Adult €9, conc €7.
- Palacio de los Guzmanes, Ruiz de Salazar 2 (east side of Casa Botines), ☏ +34 987 292100. W-Su 11:00-16:30. 16th century building, now the seat of government of Lèon Province. Visit by pre-booked guided tour, in Spanish only.
- Church of San Marcelo is 17th century. It's just south of Casa Botines at Legión VII 2.
- 4 Plaza Mayor is the elegant main square.
- 5 Palacio del Conde Luna, Plaza Conde Luna, ☏ +34 987 216794. Tu-Sa 10:00-20:00, Su M 10:00-14:00. 14th century building housing the Museum of the Kingdom of León, though it's small compared to the city museum. Free.
- 6 Plaza del Grano was formerly the city grain market.
- Church of San Marcos Convent is 16th century. It's accessible free Tu-Sa 10:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00, Su 10:00-14:00, though the rest of the convent is now a plush hotel.
- 7 MUSAC, Av Reyes Leoneses 24, ☏ +34 987 090000. Jun-Sep Tu-F 11:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00, Sa Su 11:00-15:00, Oct-May Tu-Su 11:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00. Museum of contemporary art in a striking modern building, displaying artworks from 1992. Adult €3, conc €2.
Do
[edit]- Recreo Industrial stages comedy and similar light fare at Plaza de San Marcelo 18.
- Teatro San Francisco is at La Corredera 1.
- Auditorio Ciudad de León is a big concert hall at Av de los Reyes Leoneses 4, a block east of Convento de San Marcos.
- Teatro El Albéitar is within the university on the east riverbank.
- Cinema: Van Gogh Cines is at San Claudio 5.
- Football: Cultural Leonesa play soccer in Primera Federación, the semi-pro third tier. Their Estadio Reino de León (capacity 13,300) is 1 km south of the railway station.
- Palacio de los Deportes is a sports complex north side of the football stadium, on Av Sáenz de Miera.
Buy
[edit]- Supermarkets: Alimerka and Mercadona are convenience store chains at several locations. They're typically open M-Sa 09:00-21:00.
- El Corte Inglés is Spain's main chain of department stores. It's at Fray Luis de León 29, open M-Sa 10:00-22:00.
- Downtown shopping is along C Ancha and C Ordoño II from the cathedral to the river.
Eat
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- Meat meat meat! - veggies might need to do some searching. Cecina is cured smoked beef, morcilla is blood sausage, and botillo is meat-stuffed pork tripe.
- Cocido is meat stew. However the León or maragato style is a vegetable-vermicelli soup, with chickpeas, potatoes and meat on the side.
- Tapas in bars usually come free, though it goes on the price of the drinks.
Budget
[edit]- La Somoza Tradición, Platerias 4 (block west of Plaza Mayor), ☏ +34 630 407964. Tu-Sa 13:00-16:00, 20:00-23:00, Su 13:00-16:30. Good trad tapas.
- 1 Mesón Jabugo, Plaza San Martín 6, ☏ +34 620 982186. Tu-Su 12:00-16:00, 20:00-23:30. Atmospheric place in the square, large servings of tapas.
- 2 La Casa del Cocido, Serradores 4, ☏ +34 987 004484. Tu-Su 13:00-15:30. Extensive menu of León-style cocido.
- La Competencia, Conde Rebolledo 17 (south side of Palacio del Conde Luna), ☏ +34 987 212312. Daily 13:00-16:30, 19:00-00:00. Chain pizzeria, mixed reviews. They have three more city branches further north.
- 3 Jamón Jamón, Azabachería 6. W-M 12:00-16:00, 19:00-00:00. Lively bar with sausage tapas.
- 4 Taberna Misericordia, Misericordia 9. Th F 19:30-00:00, Sa 13:00-16:30, 19:30-00:00, Su 13:00-16:30. Cozy bar with good tapas, pet-friendly.
Mid-range
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- Restaurante Lumière, Ancha 18 (by Hotel Paris), ☏ +34 987 238604. Su-Th 08:00-00:00, F Sa 08:00-01:00. Quality Spanish cuisine in a pleasant ambience.
- niMÚ Azotea, Policía Nacional (within Barceló León Conde Luna Hotel), ☏ +34 987 798192. M-Sa 13:30-17:30, 20:30-00:30, Su 13:00-17:00. Spectacular views from the terrace, but you need to book an outside table for these. Good trad cuisine and you're paying for the view.
- Restaurante Alfonso Valderas, Arco de Ánimas 1 (block north of niMÚ), ☏ +34 987 200229. Su Tu W 13:30-16:00, Th-Sa 13:30-16:00, 21:00-23:00. Quality Spanish fare, their specialty is fish.
- Toro Toro is a Japanese buffet opposite Alfonso Valderas at Arco de Ánimas 2, open daily 13:30-17:00, 20:30-23:30.
- 5 Pagus León, Villa Benavente 16, ☏ +34 987 036656. Tu-Su 13:30-16:00, 20:30-23:00. Splendid Italian cuisine, GF available, and great service.
Splurge
[edit]- 6 Cocinandos, Plaza San Marcos 5, ☏ +34 987 071378. W-Sa 13:45-14:45, 20:45-21:45, Su 13:45-14:45. Great dining from regional ingredients.
- 7 Restaurante Pablo, Av los Cubos 8, ☏ +34 987 216562. W-Sa 14:00-15:00, 21:00-22:00, Su 14:00-15:00. Fine dining, great reviews.
Drink
[edit]- Wine: Tierra de León is a Denominación de Origen (DO) for wines from the south of the province of León. The usual grape, peculiar to León, is Prieto Picudo. The DO wine region has 36 vineyards, often with good restaurants, with a concentration around the village of Valdevimbre 24 km south of the city. In bygone times tunnels were drilled to keep maturing wine cool, and several are still in use for storage or as pubs / restaurants.
- Barrio húmedo, a charming old neighborhood, has many pubs, discos and restaurants. It can get rowdy late night, though the numbers on the streets keep it relatively safe.
Sleep
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- 1 Hostal Bayón, Alcázar de Toledo 6, ☏ +34 987 231446. Small and basic but clean. Double (room only) €40.
- 2 Hostal Tranches, Barahona 9, ☏ +34 987 200694. Small central place, cleaning spasmodic. Double (room only) €65.
- La Posada Regia, Regidores 9 (block east of Casa Botines), ☏ +34 987 213173. Atmospheric small hotel in a building of 1370. Double (room only) €60.
- 3 Hotel Spa Paris, Ancha 18, ☏ +34 987 238600. Central and inexpensive but cleanliness varies. Double (room only) €60.
- 4 Hotel NH Plaza Mayor, Plaza Mayor 15, ☏ +34 987 344357. Good value central hotel. B&B double €120.
- 5 Barceló León Conde Luna, Av Independencia 7, ☏ +34 987 206600. Central spot but fittings are tired and basic. B&B double €120.
- 6 Hotel Alfonso V, Av del Padre Isla 1, ☏ +34 987 220900. Pleasant central hotel. B&B double €120.
- 7 Parador de León, Plaza San Marcos 7, ☏ +34 987 237300, leon@parador.es. Deluxe hotel in the former convent of San Marcos, built from the 1530s to 1715. Great comfort and service, some gripes about so-so food. The convent church remains in use. From 1936 to 1940 during the Spanish Civil War the whole place was a grisly torture camp. B&B double €220.
Connect
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As of Nov 2024, León and its approach roads have 5G from all Spanish carriers.
Go next
[edit]- Astorga 43 km west has a Romanesque cathedral, and an episcopal palace designed by Gaudí.
- Bembibre 97 km west has several museums and old churches.
- San Miguel de la Escalada 30 km east is a 10th-century monastery.
- Sahagún 60 km east has 15th-century churches. 7 km south, Grajal de Campos has a medieval castle, church and palace.
- Oviedo 125 km north is the chief city of Asturias, with many historic buildings.
- Valladolid 140 km southeast is the chief city of Castile and León, with Romanesque and Gothic buildings.
- Zamora 140 km south has a concentration of Romanesque architecture.
| Routes through León |
| Santiago de Compostela ← San Martín del Camino ← | w  E |
→ Mansilla de las Mulas → Burgos |