2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships

2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
	Official event logo
Venue	Esforta Arena in Hachioji
Location	Hachioji, Japan
Date	11–21 August 2019
Competitors	253 athletes from 39 nations
Website	https://jmsca-itadaki.com/s/n93w/
	← Innsbruck 2018 Moscow 2021 →

The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France.^[1]^[2] The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.^[3]^[4]

Medal summary

Medalists

Event	Gold	Silver	Bronze
Men's Lead	Adam Ondra (CZE)	Alexander Megos (GER)	Jakob Schubert (AUT)
Men's Bouldering	Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)	Jakob Schubert (AUT)	Yannick Flohé (GER)
Men's Speed	Ludovico Fossali (ITA)	Jan Kriz (CZE)	Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)
Men's Combined	Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)	Jakob Schubert (AUT)	Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
Women's Lead	Janja Garnbret (SLO)	Mia Krampl (SLO)	Ai Mori (JPN)
Women's Bouldering	Janja Garnbret (SLO)	Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)	Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
Women's Speed	Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)	Di Niu (CHN)	Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
Women's Combined	Janja Garnbret (SLO)	Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)	Shauna Coxsey (GBR)

Medal table

* Host nation (Japan)

Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics

The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.^[3]^[5]

The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:

2020 Summer Olympic qualification
Men	Women
Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) Jakob Schubert (AUT) Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) Mickaël Mawem (FRA) Alexander Megos (GER) Ludovico Fossali (ITA) Sean McColl (CAN) Kai Harada (JPN)*	Janja Garnbret (SLO) Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) Shauna Coxsey (GBR) Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) Petra Klingler (SUI) Brooke Raboutou (USA) Jessica Pilz (AUT) Miho Nonaka (JPN)*

* Japan, as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.

Schedule

All times and dates use Japan Standard Time (UTC+9) ^[6]

Q	Qualifications	SF	Semi-finals	F	Finals

B	Bouldering	L	Lead	S	Speed	C	Combined

August 2019	11th Sun	12th Mon	13th Tue		14th Wed	15th Thu		16th Fri	17th Sat		18th Sun	19th Mon	20th Tue	21st Wed
Men		B	B	B	L	L	L	Rest day	S	S		C		C
Women	B		B	B	L	L	L	Rest day	S	S	C		C

Bouldering

Women

Rank	Name	Qualification	Semi-Final	Final^[7]
1	Janja Garnbret	5t5z 5 5	3t4z 7 6	3T3z 8 8
2	Akiyo Noguchi	5t5z 9 9	2t4z 3 8	2T2z 4 2
3	Shauna Coxsey	3t5z 6 9	0t3z 0 6	2T2z 6 6
4	Ievgeniia Kazbekova	4t5z 14 14	1t2z 2 3	1T2z 3 4
5	Miho Nonaka	3t4z 4 8	0t3z 0 5	1T2z 5 6
6	Nanako Kura	5t5z 12 10	1t2z 1 5	0T1z 0 1

Men

Rank	Name	Qualification	Semi-Final	Final^[8]
1	Tomoa Narasaki	4t4z 8 5	2t4z 2 4	2T4z 12 20
2	Jakob Schubert	3t4z 5 6	1t4z 3 12	0T3z 0 10
3	Yannick Flohé	3t5z 5 14	2t4z 13 16	0T3z 0 13
4	Kokoro Fujii	4t4z 5 5	2t4z 5 6	0T3z 0 18
5	Keita Dohi	3t5z 6 8	2t4z 5 10	0T2z 0 9
6	Adam Ondra	5t5z 6 6	3t4z 11 7	0T0z 0 0

Lead

Women

Rank	Name	Qualification					Semi-Final	Final^[9]
		Route 1		Route 2		Points
		Score	Rank	Score	Rank	Points
1	Janja Garnbret	TOP	1	TOP	1	1.22	38+	43+
2	Mia Krampl	35+	6	32	7	7.35	34	39+
3	Ai Mori	39+	2	TOP	1	1.73	34+	38+
4	Seo Chae-hyun	34	8	38	4	5.66	32	38+
5	Akiyo Noguchi	34+	7	33+	6	6.48	32	38+
6	Jessica Pilz	37+	3	31+	12	8.26	30+	35+
7	Vita Lukan	28	21	31+	12	21.18	35	30+
8	Julia Chanourdie	31+	10	31+	12	14.97	30+	30+

Men

Rank	Name	Qualification					Semi-Final	Final^[10]
		Route 1		Route 2		Points
		Score	Rank	Score	Rank	Points
1	Adam Ondra	TOP	1	31	22	9.07	37+	34+
2	Alex Megos	TOP	1	32+	7	6.06	40+	33+
3	Jakob Schubert	TOP	1	TOP	1	3.50	30+	33+
4	Tomoa Narasaki	TOP	1	TOP	1	3.50	38	30
5	Sean McColl	31+	9	TOP	1	5.61	37+	30
6	Stefano Ghisolfi	28+	18	TOP	1	8.05	29+	29+
7	Kai Harada	32+	8	TOP	1	5.29	31+	28+
8	Hannes Puman	29+	11	32+	7	11.68	29+	27+

Speed

Women

Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.^[11]

Round of 16

Quarter-finals

Semi-finals

Final

1

Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)

7.472

16

MingWei Ni (CHN)

7.819

Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)

7.337

Patrycja Chudziak (POL)

8.008

8

Patrycja Chudziak (POL)

8.114

9

Elena Remizova (RUS)

fall

Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)

7.337

YiLing Song (CHN)

fall

4

Iuliia Kaplina (RUS)

8.465

13

Aleksandra Kałucka (POL)

7.789

Aleksandra Kałucka (POL)

7.605

YiLing Song (CHN)

7.192

5

YiLing Song (CHN)

7.436

12

Anna Brożek (POL)

7.945

Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)

7.129

Di Niu (CHN)

8.363

2

Mariia Krasavina (RUS)

7.454

15

Andrea Rojas (ECU)

8.202

Mariia Krasavina (RUS)

7.998

Di Niu (CHN)

7.814

7

Natalia Kałucka (POL)

7.895

10

Di Niu (CHN)

7.871

Di Niu (CHN)

7.525

Anouck Jaubert (FRA)

7.535

3

Anouck Jaubert (FRA)

8.409

Small final

14

Aurelia Sarisson (FRA)

10.504

Anouck Jaubert (FRA)

7.663

YiLing Song (CHN)

9.76

Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS)

10.188

Anouck Jaubert (FRA)

7.53

6

Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS)

7.747

11

PeiYang Tian (CHN)

8.080

Men

Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.^[12]

Round of 16

Quarter-finals

Semi-finals

Final

1

Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS)

6.150

16

Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)

5.944

Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)

5.808

Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR)

5.863

8

Sergey Rukin (RUS)

fall

9

Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR)

6.232

Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)

fall

Jan Kriz (CZE)

5.986

4

Reza Alipour (IRI)

6.281

13

John Brosler (USA)

9.383

Reza Alipour (IRI)

7.248

Jan Kriz (CZE)

6.219

5

Long Cao (CHN)

6.441

12

Jan Kriz (CZE)

6.136

Jan Kriz (CZE)

fall

Ludovico Fossali (ITA)

6.871

2

Vladislav Deulin (RUS)

5.612

15

QiXin Zhong (CHN)

5.580

QiXin Zhong (CHN)

FS

Ludovico Fossali (ITA)

WC

7

Amir Maimuratov (KAZ)

fall

10

Ludovico Fossali (ITA)

5.908

Ludovico Fossali (ITA)

WC

Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)

FS

3

Bassa Mawem (FRA)

7.470

Small final

14

Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)

7.013

Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)

7.613

Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)

5.83

Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)

7.500

Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)

5.93

6

Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)

5.940

11

ZhiYong Ou (CHN)

6.072

WC – Wildcard

FS – False start

Combined

Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.^[6]

In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.^[13]

Women

^[14]

Rank	Name	Points	Speed		Bouldering		Lead
Rank	Name	Points	Rank	Time	Rank	Score	Rank	Holds
1	Janja Garnbret	12.00	6	13.399	2	1T2z 1 2	1	Top
2	Akiyo Noguchi	21.00	7	10.082	1	2T2z 3 3	3	40+
3	Shauna Coxsey	42.00	2	9.225	3	1T2z 2 3	7	20
4	Aleksandra Mirosław	64.00	1	7.750	8	0T0z 0 0	8	10
5	Miho Nonaka	80.00	4	12.356	4	1T2z 3 4	5	23+
6	Ai Mori	80.00	8	12.860	5	1T2z 3 7	2	Top
7	Futaba Ito	120.00	5	8.655	6	0T2z 0 2	4	27
8	Petra Klingler	126.00	3	8.901	7	0T2z 0 3	6	23+

Men

^[15]

Rank	Name	Points	Speed		Bouldering		Lead
Rank	Name	Points	Rank	Time	Rank	Score	Rank	Holds
1	Tomoa Narasaki	4.00	2	fall	1	3T3z 4 3	2	30
2	Jakob Schubert	35.00	7	7.208	5	0T3z 0 6	1	Top
3	Rishat Khaibullin	40.00	1	5.915	8	0T1z 0 2	5	22
4	Kai Harada	54.00	3	6.348	6	0T2z 0 6	3	30
5	Meichi Narasaki	60.00	5	6.689	2	1T3z 1 4	6	21
6	Kokoro Fujii	72.00	6	9.438	3	1T3z 2 6	4	29+
7	Mickaël Mawem	112.00	4	6.716	4	1T2z 3 4	7	20
8	Alexander Megos	448.00	8	7.570	7	0T1z 0 1	8	0

References

^ "IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France". British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
^ "IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships - Briançon (FRA) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
^ ^a ^b "GB Climbing in Hachioji: first step to Tokyo 2020". British Mountaineering Council. 5 August 2019. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
^ "Top climbers seeking to use world championships in Hachioji as springboard to 2020 Games". The Japan Times. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
^ ^a ^b "All you need to know about the IFSC Climbing World Championships 2019". Olympics.com. Retrieved 2021-09-09.
^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
^ "IFSC RULES 2019 VERSION No 1.9.2" (PDF). IFSC. Archived from the original (PDF) on Aug 21, 2019.
^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result WOMEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 20, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.
^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result MEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 21, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.

External links

[1] "IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France". British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.

[2] "IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships - Briançon (FRA) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.

[bmc-olympic-quali-3] "GB Climbing in Hachioji: first step to Tokyo 2020". British Mountaineering Council. 5 August 2019. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.

[4] "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.

[5] "Top climbers seeking to use world championships in Hachioji as springboard to 2020 Games". The Japan Times. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.

[:0-6] "All you need to know about the IFSC Climbing World Championships 2019". Olympics.com. Retrieved 2021-09-09.

[7] "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.

[8] "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.

[9] "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.

[10] "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.

[11] "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.

[12] "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.

[ifsc-rules-2019-v1.9.2-13] "IFSC RULES 2019 VERSION No 1.9.2" (PDF). IFSC. Archived from the original (PDF) on Aug 21, 2019.

[14] "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result WOMEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 20, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.

[15] "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result MEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 21, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.

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Rank	Nation	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
1	Slovenia	3	1	0	4
2	Japan*	2	2	1	5
3	Czech Republic	1	1	0	2
4	Italy	1	0	0	1
4	Poland	1	0	0	1
6	Austria	0	2	1	3
7	Germany	0	1	1	2
8	China	0	1	0	1
9	Great Britain	0	0	2	2
10	France	0	0	1	1
	Kazakhstan	0	0	1	1
	Russia	0	0	1	1
Totals (12 entries)		8	8	8	24

v t e World championships in 2019
Summer sports & indoor sports	Aquatics artistic swimming diving high diving open water swimming swimming water polo Archery Association football (women) Athletics cross country relay Badminton mixed team Basketball men 3x3 Beach soccer Beach volleyball Bowls Boxing men women Canoeing slalom sprint marathon Cricket Test ODI (men) Cycling road track mountain bike cyclo-cross BMX Fencing Floorball (women) Futsal (AMF men) Gymnastics artistic rhythmic trampoline Handball men women Judo Korfball Minifootball Modern pentathlon Muaythai Netball Nine-pin bowling Orienteering Roller hockey men women Rowing Rugby union (men) Shooting (shotgun) Softball (men) Sport climbing Squash men 2018–19 2019–20 women 2018–19 2019–20 Surfing Table tennis men women team Taekwondo Weightlifting Windsurfing Wrestling Wushu
Winter sports	Alpine skiing Bandy (men) Biathlon Bobsleigh / skeleton Curling men women mixed mixed doubles wheelchair Figure skating Freestyle skiing / snowboarding Ice hockey men women Luge Nordic skiing Speed skating allround single distances sprint short track
Cue & mind sports	Chess rapid blitz Darts BDO PDC Draughts men women Pool Nine-ball Ten-ball Snooker six-red
Motor sports	Air race Aquabike Endurance auto racing 2018–19 2019–20 Endurance motorcycle racing 2018–19 2019–20 F1 Powerboat Formula One Motocross men women team MotoGP Moto2 Moto3 MotoE Radio-controlled 1:10 off-road Rally Rallycross Rally raid Auto Moto Bajas auto Bajas moto Speedway individual team Sidecarcross Superbike Supersport Supersport 300 Touring car

Medal summary

Medalists

Medal table

Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics

Schedule

Bouldering

Women

Men

Lead

Women

Men

Speed

Women

Men

Combined

Women

Men

See also

References

External links