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{{Short description|Traditional Korean clothing}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2020}}
{{Italic title}}{{distinguish|Hanfu}}{{distinguish|Hanfu}}{{Infobox clothing type|title=Hanbok|material=Diverse|location=Present-day [[North Korea]], [[South Korea]] and [[China]] ([[Manchuria]])|image_file=[[File:Hanbok (female and male).jpg|Hanbok (female and male)|150px]]|caption=Typical designs of hanbok, traditional Korean dress}}{{Infobox transliteration
{{Italic title}}{{distinguish|Hanfu}}
| title = Chinese name
{{Infobox transliteration
| pic =
| title = Traditional Korean dress
| piccap =
| pic = Hanbok (female and male).jpg
| skhangul = {{linktext|한복}}
| piccap = Typical designs of traditional Korean dress
| skhangulskhanja = {{linktext|한복韓服}}
| skrr = Hanbok
| skhanja = {{linktext|韓服}}
| skrrskmr = Hanbok
| nkhangul = {{linktext|조선옷}}
| skmr = Hanbok
| nkhangulnkhanja = {{linktext|조선옷朝鮮}} 옷
| nkrr = Joseon-ot
| nkhanja = {{linktext|朝鮮}}옷
| nkrrnkmr = JoseonChosŏn-ot
| ibox-order =
| nkmr = Chosŏn-ot
| s = 朝鮮服
| ibox-order = ko1, ko4, ko3}}{{distinguish|Hanfu}}[[File:Hanbok accessories.jpg|thumb|{{transl|ko|Hanbok}} accessories]]
| p = Cháoxiǎnfú
[[File:Children dressed in Korean traditional clothing at the opening ceremony for Old Korean Legation - 2018 (42300672731).jpg|thumb|Children in [[Washington DC]] wearing {{transl|ko|hanbok}}]]
| c =
The '''{{transl|ko|hanbok}}''' (in [[South Korean standard language|South Korea]]) or '''{{transl|ko|Chosŏn-ot}}''' (in [[North Korean standard language|North Korea]]) is traditional Korean clothes. The term {{transl|ko|"hanbok"}} literally means "Korean clothing".<ref>Korean Culture and Information Service, 2018, Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of the Republic of Korea</ref>
| altname =
 
| l = Korean (ethnic) clothing
The earliest visual depictions of {{transl|ko|hanbok}} can be traced back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period (1st century BC–7th century AD), with roots in the [[Yemaek|Proto-Koreanic people]] of what is now northern Korea and Manchuria. Early forms of {{transl|ko|hanbok}} can be seen in the art of [[Goguryeo]] tomb murals of the same period, with the earliest mural paintings dating to the 5th century.<ref>The Dreams of the Living and the Hopes of the Dead-Goguryeo Tomb Murals, 2007, Ho-Tae Jeon, Seoul National University Press</ref> The basic structure of the {{transl|ko|hanbok}} was established at least since this period. The ancient {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consisted of a {{transl|ko|jeogori}} (top), {{transl|ko|baji}} (pants), {{transl|ko|chima}} (skirt), and the ''po'' (coat). The basic structure of hanbok was designed to facilitate the ease of movement and integrated many motifs of [[Korean shamanism|Mu-ism]].<ref name=":16">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1253353500|title=Flags, color, and the legal narrative : public memory, identity, and critique|date=2021|publisher=Springer|others=Anne Wagner, Sarah Marusek|isbn=978-3-030-32865-8|location=Cham, Switzerland|pages=125|oclc=1253353500}}</ref> These basic structural features of the {{transl|ko|hanbok}} remains relatively unchanged to this day. However, present day hanbok, which is worn nowadays, is patterned after the hanbok worn in the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]].<ref name=":16" />
}}
 
The '''{{transl|ko|hanbok}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=한복|hanja=韓服|rr=hanbok|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=[[Koreans| Korean]] clothing}}; term used in [[South Korean standard language|South Korea]]), also called '''{{transl|ko|Chosŏn-ot}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=조선옷|hanja=朝鮮옷|rr=Joseon-ot|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}) in [[North Korean standard language|North Korea]], and '''{{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=朝鮮服}}) in [[China]], is an [[Hyponymy and hypernymy|umbrella term]] which is used to refer to traditional ethnic [[Koreans|Korean]] clothes. The term {{transl|ko|"hanbok"}} literally means "Korean clothing".<ref>Korean Culture and Information Service, 2018, Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of the Republic of Korea</ref> Earliest visual depictions of {{transl|ko|hanbok}} can be traced back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period (57 BC to 668 AD) with roots in the [[Yemaek|Proto-Koreanic people]] of what is now northern Korea and Manchuria; it can also be found in the arts of the [[Goguryeo]] tomb murals of the same period from the 4th to 6th century AD,<ref>The Dreams of the Living and the Hopes of the Dead-Goguryeo Tomb Murals, 2007, Ho-Tae Jeon, Seoul National University Press</ref> where the basic structure of the {{transl|ko|hanbok}} was established at least since this period. The ancient {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consisted of a {{transl|ko|[[jeogori]]}} (top), {{transl|ko|[[baji (clothing)|baji]]}} (pants), {{transl|ko|[[chima]]}} (skirt), and the ''{{transl|ko|[[po (clothing)|po]]}}'' (coat). The basic structure of {{transl|ko|hanbok}} was designed to facilitate the ease of movement and integrated many motifs of [[Korean shamanism|Mu-ism]].<ref name=":16">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1253353500|title=Flags, color, and the legal narrative : public memory, identity, and critique|date=2021|publisher=Springer|others=Anne Wagner, Sarah Marusek|isbn=978-3-030-32865-8|location=Cham, Switzerland|pages=125|oclc=1253353500}}</ref> These basic structural features of the {{transl|ko|hanbok}} remains relatively unchanged to this day. However, present-day {{transl|ko|hanbok}}, which is worn nowadays, is patterned after the {{transl|ko|hanbok}} worn in the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]],<ref name=":16" /> especially those worn by the nobility and royalty.<ref name=":7">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/680802927 |title=Passport to Korean culture. |date=2009 |publisher=Korean Culture and Information Service |others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn |isbn=978-89-7375-153-2 |edition=2009 |location=Seoul, Korea |oclc=680802927}}</ref>{{Rp|page=104}}<ref name=":8">{{Cite book |last=Gwak |first=Sung Youn Sonya |title=Be(com)ing Korean in the United States: Exploring Ethnic Identity Formation Through Cultural Practices |publisher=[[Cambria Press]] |year=2006 |isbn=9781621969723}}</ref> In the past, however, commoners ({{transl|ko|seomin}}), were not allowed to wear what is now known as {{transl|ko|hanbok}} and instead wore {{transl|ko|[[minbok]]}} (clothing of commoners) which was typically white or off-white in colours; the commoners were only allowed to wear {{transl|ko|hanbok}} on their wedding day and on special occasions.<ref name=":7" />{{Rp|page=104}}<ref name=":8" /><ref name=":10">{{Cite web |last=Lopez Velazquez |first=Laura |date=2021 |title=Hanbok during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasty |url=https://www.korea.net/TalkTalkKorea/Korean/community/community/CMN0000009345 |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=www.korea.net}}</ref> The extensive use of white clothing among the commoners lead to Korea being referred as “dressed people of white".<ref name=":10" /> Nowadays, contemporary Koreans wear {{transl|ko|hanbok}} for formal or semi-formal occasions and events such as weddings, festivals, celebrations, and ceremonies. In 1996, the South Korean [[Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism]] established "{{transl|ko|Hanbok}} Day" to encourage South Korean citizens to wear the {{transl|ko|hanbok}}.<ref>{{Cite web |last=쿠키뉴스 |date=2014-09-15 |title=한복데이, 전국 5개 도시서 펼쳐진다 |url=http://www.kukinews.com/newsView/kuk201409150150 |access-date=2022-03-11 |website=쿠키뉴스 |language=ko}}</ref>
Contemporary Koreans wear {{transl|ko|hanbok}} for formal or semi-formal occasions and events such as weddings, festivals, celebrations, and ceremonies. In 1996, the South Korean [[Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism]] established "Hanbok Day" to encourage South Korean citizens to wear the {{transl|ko|hanbok}}.<ref>{{Cite web |last=쿠키뉴스 |date=2014-09-15 |title=한복데이, 전국 5개 도시서 펼쳐진다 |url=http://www.kukinews.com/newsView/kuk201409150150 |access-date=2022-03-11 |website=쿠키뉴스 |language=ko}}</ref>
 
== Etymology ==
The first recorded evidence of the name ''{{transl|ko|hanbok}}'' is from a 1881 document ''{{transl|ko|Jeongchiilgi''}} ([[Hangul]]: 정치일기).<ref name=":52">역사 속의 우리 옷 변천사, 2009, Chonnam National University Press</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=김여경|date=2010|title=2000년 이후 인쇄매체에 나타난 한복의 조형미 연구|url=http://scienceon.kisti.re.kr/srch/selectPORSrchArticle.do?cn=DIKO0011925322|access-date=2021-07-24|website=ScienceON|language=KO}}</ref> In the document, {{transl|ko|hanbok}} was used to distinguish Korean clothing from Japanese traditional clothing and Western clothing. Hanbok was used in a 1895 document describing the assassination of [[Empress Myeongseong]] to distinguish Korean clothing from Japanese clothing. The origin of the name remains unclear, because these documents predate the [[Korean Empire]] ([[Hangul]]: 대한제국) which popularized the [[hanja]] lettercharacter ''{{transl|ko|Han''}} ({{Hanja|韓}})''.''
 
Beginning in 1900, Korean newspapers used the hanja ''han{{transl|ko|Han}}'' ({{Hanja|韓}}) in words that describe Korean clothing, such as ''hanguguibok'' ([[Hangul]]: 한국의복), ''hangugyebok'' ([[Hangul]]: 한국예복) and ''daehannyeobok'' ([[Hangul]]: 대한녀복). Hanbok was used in a 1905 newspaper article, which described the [[righteous army]] wearing Korean clothing. After the [[March 1st Movement]], ''hanbok'' became a significant ethnic symbol of Koreans.
 
Influenced by rising nationalism in the 1900s, ''{{transl|ko|hanbok}}'' became a word that meant the unique Korean clothing that can be distinguished from that of foreigners, such as Japanese, Western, and Chinese clothing. Other words with the same meaning, ''uriot'' ([[Hangul]]: 우리옷) and ''joseonot'' ([[Hangul]]: 조선옷), were concurrently used. ''Joseonot'', which was more popular in the north, replaced the other words in North Korea after the [[division of Korea]].
 
==Construction and design==
[[File:Hanbok scheme.svg|thumb|{{ubl|A diagram of the {{transl|ko|hanbok}}'s anatomy|1. {{transl|ko|hwajang}}|2. {{transl|ko|godae}}|3. {{transl|ko|somae buri}}|4. {{transl|ko|somae}}|5. {{transl|ko|goreum}}|6. {{transl|ko|u}}|7. {{transl|ko|doryeon}}|8, 11. {{transl|ko|jindong}}|9. {{transl|ko|gil}}|10. {{transl|ko|baerae}}|12. {{transl|ko|git}}|13. {{transl|ko|dongjeong}}}}]]
 
Traditionally, women's {{transl|ko|hanbok}} consist of the {{transl|ko|[[jeogori]]}} (top) and the {{transl|ko|[[chima (clothing)|chima]]}} (skirt). The ensemble is often known as {{transl|ko|'[[chima jeogori]]'}}. Men's {{transl|ko|hanbok}} consist of {{transl|ko|jeogori}} and loose fitting {{transl|ko|baji}} (trousers).<ref name="KBS">{{cite web |url=http://english.kbs.co.kr/korea/culture/clothing/ink_clt.html |title=Traditional clothing |publisher=[[KBS (Korea)|KBS Global]] |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080317124313/http://english.kbs.co.kr/korea/culture/clothing/ink_clt.html |archive-date=2008-03-17 }}</ref> On top of this ensemble, there are also a variety of vests, jackets and coats. For men, some examples are Durumagi{{transl|ko|[[durumagi]]}}, Dopo{{transl|ko|[[dopo (clothing)|dopo]]}}, Danryeong-ui, Joong-chimak, Sochang-ui, Daechang-ui, etc. For women, there are Jang-sam, Dan-sam, [[Wonsam|Won-sam]], and more.
 
==={{transl|ko|Jeogori}}===
The {{transl|ko|jeogori}} is the basic upper garment of the {{transl|ko|hanbok}}, worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.<ref name="Doosan">{{cite web |url=http://map.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?&masterno=133796&contentno=133796 |script-title=ko:저고리 |publisher=[[Doosan Encyclopedia]] |access-date=2008-09-29 |language=ko |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090315034024/http://map.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?&masterno=133796&contentno=133796 |archive-date=2009-03-15 }}</ref><ref name="HanbokBritannica">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=183581&v=47 |script-title=ko:저고리 |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[Britannica]] |access-date=2008-09-29 |language=ko}}</ref> The basic form of a {{transl|ko|jeogori}} consists of ''gil'', ''git'', ''dongjeong'', ''goreum'' and sleeves. ''Gil'' ([[Hangul]]: 길) is the large section of the garment on both front and back sides, and ''git'' ([[Hangul]]: 깃) is a band of fabric that trims the collar. ''Dongjeong'' ([[Hangul]]: 동정) is a removable white collar placed over the end of the ''git'' and is generally squared off. The ''goreum'' ([[Hangul]]: 고름) are fabric-strings that tie the ''{{transl|ko|jeogori''}}.<ref name="KBS" /> Women's ''{{transl|ko|jeogori''}} may have ''kkeutdong'' ([[Hangul]]: 끝동), a different colored [[cuff]] placed at the end of the sleeves. There are two {{transl|ko|jeogori}} artifacts that may be the earliest surviving archaeological artifact. One from a [[Yangcheon Heo clan]] tomb is dated 1400–1450,<ref name="Jeogori Reborns with New Visions of a Thousand">{{cite web |url=http://www.jeogori.org/en/entry/Before1910s |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210224210339/https://jeogori.org/en/entry/Before1910s |url-status=dead |archive-date=24 February 2021 |title=Jeogori Before 1910 |publisher=Gwangju Design Biennale |access-date=2009-06-27 }}</ref> while the other was discovered inside a statue of the Buddha at Sangwonsa Temple (presumably left as an offering) that has been dated to the 1460s.<ref name="Important Folklore Materials 219">{{cite web |url=http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A32&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004001&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=141&v_disp_type=4 |title=Sejodaeuihoejangjeogori |publisher=Cultural Heritage Administration, South Korea |access-date=2009-06-27 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120216190456/http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4:32&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004001&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=141&v_disp_type=4 |archive-date=2012-02-16 }}</ref>
[[File:Korea-Busan-Beomeosa-04.jpg|thumb|Jeogori and chima]]
 
The form of ''Jeogori''{{transl|ko|jeogori}} has changed over time.<ref name="Britannica" /> While men's ''{{transl|ko|jeogori''}} remained relatively unchanged, women's ''{{transl|ko|jeogori''}} became dramatically shortened during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty, reaching its shortest length at the late 19th century. However, due to reformation efforts and practical reasons, late modern ''jeogori'' for women was longer than its earlier counterpart with its length still above the waistline There are various styles and types of ''{{transl|ko|jeogori''}} varying in fabric, sewing technique, and shape.<ref name="Britannica" /><ref name="Jeogori Reborns with New Visions of a Thousand" /> Contemporary ''{{transl|ko|jeogori''}} are presently designed with various lengths.
 
The early form of {{transl|ko|jeogori}} is hypothesized to have originated or have been influenced by {{transl|ko|[[Hufu (clothing)|Ho-bokhobok]]}}, nomadic dress typically worn by northern nomadic people in Asia.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=김문자 |date=2004 |title=[논문]고대 한복의 원류 및 세계화 속의 한복의 위치 |trans-title=A study on the Source of Hanbok in ancient times and the position of te Hanbok on the Globalism |url=http://scienceon.kisti.re.kr/srch/selectPORSrchArticle.do?cn=NART56146983 |journal=韓服文化 = Journal of Korean Traditional Constume |language=KO |volume=7 |issue=1 |pages=7–15 |issn=1598-8295}}</ref>{{NoteTag|Hobok (pronounced Hufu in Chinese) was a term which referred to non-Chinese clothing in opposition to [[Hanfu]]; by definition, it does not only apply to nomadic clothing.}} Hobok characteristics of the ancient ''jeogori'' include: the closure on the front<ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계2">{{cite journal |title=스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로 |journal=한국의상디자인학회지 |volume=20( 1) |pages=61–77 |doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61 |doi-access=free}}</ref> closing to the left side in Jwa-im (左袵, 좌임), narrow sleeves, and both men and women wearing trousers, even under chima.<ref name=":23">{{cite web |last=Kim |first=Munja |title=우리역사넷 |url=http://contents.history.go.kr/front/km/view.do?levelId=km_009_0030_0010 |website=National Institute of Korean History}}</ref> There is also Hanbok that was influenced by a more tropical style in Southern parts of the Korean Peninsula which lacked trousers and had a one-piece style.<ref>{{Cite web |title=주호국 - 나무위키 |url=https://namu.wiki/w/%EC%A3%BC%ED%98%B8%EA%B5%AD |access-date=2022-07-09 |website=namu.wiki}}</ref>
 
Most modern {{transl|ko|jeogori}} is closed to the right which is a fashion trend from what is now mainland [[Ru (upper garment)|China.]] The closure of the {{transl|ko|jeogori}} to the right is an imitation of [[Ru (upper garment)|Han Chinese jackets]],<ref name=":73">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/700141350 |title=Costumes d'enfants : miroir des grands : Établissement public du musée des arts asiatiques Guimet, 20 octobre 2010-24 janvier 2011 |date=2010 |publisher=Réunion des musées nationaux |others=Aurélie Samuel, Musée Guimet |isbn=978-2-7118-5759-3 |location=Paris |pages=68 |language=fr |oclc=700141350 |quote="[...] la veste [[jeogori|chogori]] se ferme ensuite sur la droite à l'imitation des [[ru (upper garment)| vestes chinoises]]"}}</ref> this style of closure is called ''Woo-Yim'' (우임, 右衽; {{Lang-zh|c=右衽|p=yòurèn}}) and originated in the [[Shang dynasty]].<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Yu |first=Song-Ok |date=1980 |title=A Comparative Study on the Upper Garment in the Ancient East and West |url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO198020336527455.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |volume=3 |pages=29–46 |issn=1229-6880}}</ref>
 
==== Goreum ====
Traditionally, there are many types of ''goreum. Goreum'' refers to strings of cloth that fasten clothes together. Fabric ''goreum'' were potentially used since [[Gojoseon]]. They were originally practical but often decorative. [[Silla]] had regulations against types of ''Dae'' (belts) and decorative ''goreum'' for each [[Bone-rank system|Golpoom]]. Southern parts of Korea, including [[Silla]], had a colorful ''goreum'' on the front of the neck, which influenced [[Yayoi period|Yayoi]] culture. Parts of [[Goguryeo]] style had a fabric ''goreum'' loop around the waist with a decorative ribbon to the side like a belt. Generally, thin and short ones were used on the inside and more decorative, colorfulcolourful ones were used on the outside. Since the early form of the ''jeogori'' was usually wrapped across the front, the outside ''goreum'' was placed on the side of the wearer, below the armpit. Starting in [[Joseon|Joseon Dynasty]], the ''goreum'' slowly moved to the front of the ''jeogori''. In the 20th century, the ''goreum'' became the commonly known long and wide decorative ribbons on the front of the ''jeogori'' and was coined the ''Ot-goreum.''
 
==== Danchu ====
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==== Goguryeo ====
According to the murals of [[Goguryeo]] and an earthen toy excavated from the neighborhoodneighbourhood of [[Hwangnam-dong]], [[Gyeongju]], Goguryeo women usually wore the ''jeogori'' over the ''chima,'' covering the top of the chima.<ref name="Koreana">{{cite journal |url=http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/13-Clothing/13-95aut-charateristics.html |title=Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development |author=Cho, Woo-hyun |publisher=Koreana |volume=9 |issue=3 }}{{dead link|date=December 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref><ref name="Hanstyle">{{cite web |url=http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp |script-title=ko:유행과 우리옷 |trans-title=Fashion and Korean clothing |publisher=Korea the sense |language=ko |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120302181258/http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp |archive-date=2012-03-02 }}</ref> One popular fashion was the A-line ''chima''.
 
==== Goryeo ====
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==== Banbi ====
''Banbi'' refers to a variety of short sleeved garments that are worn on top of inner garments. A type of outer half-sleeved Banbi can be seen in [[Goguryeo]] murals.{{Citation needed|date=July 2022|reason=at least the name of the mural if possible as there are various forms of banbi and many Goguryeo murals}}
 
==== Bigap ====
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[[File:Korean clothing-Hanbok for children-01.jpg|thumb|Children's hanbok]]
 
Traditionally, ''[[Kkachi durumagi]]'' (literally "a magpie's overcoat") were worn as ''seolbim'' ([[Hangul]]: 설빔), new clothing and shoes worn on [[Korean New Year]], while at present, it is worn as a ceremonial garment for ''[[doljanchi|dol]]'', the celebration for a baby's first birthday.<ref name="EncyKorea Kkachi">{{cite web|url=http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=241774&v=45 |script-title=ko:까치두루마기 | publisher=[[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] / [[EncyKorea]] | access-date=2008-09-30 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110610044200/http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=241774&v=45 | archive-date=2011-06-10 | language=ko}}</ref><ref name="dol">{{cite web|url=http://www.geocities.com/ypmljulia/cooking/dol.htm|title=Geocities.com|publisher=Julia's Cook Korean site|access-date=2007-11-29|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091027145013/http://www.geocities.com/ypmljulia/cooking/dol.htm|archive-date=2009-10-27|url-status=dead}}</ref> It is a children's colorful overcoat.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://engdic.daum.net/dicen//view_detail.do?q=%B1%EE%C4%A1%B5%CE%B7%E7%B8%B6%B1%E2%B8%A6%20%C0%D4%C0%BA%20%B3%B2%BE%C6%B1%EE%C4%A1%B5%CE%B7%E7%B8%B6%B1%E2&qalias=K144180 |script-title=ko:까치두루마기 |publisher=[[Daum Communications|Daum]] Korean-English Dictionary |language=ko, en }}{{dead link|date=December 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> It was worn mostly by young boys.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?33064&contentno=33064|title=Encyber.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}{{dead link|date=October 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> The clothes is also called ''obangjang durumagi'' which means "an overcoat of five directions".<ref name="EncyKorea Kkachi" /> It was worn over ''jeogori'' (a jacket) and ''jokki'' (a vest), while the wearer could put ''[[jeonbok]]'' (a long vest) over it. ''Kkachi durumagi'' was also worn along with [[headgear]] such as ''[[bokgeon]]'' (a peaked cloth hat),<ref>[http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/14-Wedding/14-03spr-traditional.doc The Groom's Wedding Attire] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090423212820/http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/14-Wedding/14-03spr-traditional.doc |date=2009-04-23 }} Academia Koreana of Keimyung University</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dprk-tour.com/sub03/04.php|title=What are the traditional national clothes of Korea?|access-date=8 October 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160110071752/http://www.dprk-tour.com/sub03/04.php|archive-date=10 January 2016|url-status=dead|df=dmy-all}}</ref> ''hogeon'' (peaked cloth hat with a tiger pattern) for young boys or ''[[gulle]]'' (decorative headgear) for young girls.<ref name="Doosan" />{{Request quotation|date=May 2015}}<ref name="tour2korea">{{cite web|url=http://visitkorea.or.kr/ena/CU/CU_EN_8_3_2.jsp |title=Hanboks (Traditional Clothings) |work=Headgear and Accessories Worn Together with Hanbok |publisher=[[Korea Tourism Organization]] |access-date=2008-10-06}}</ref>[[File:Children dressed in Korean traditional clothing at the opening ceremony for Old Korean Legation - 2018 (42300672731).jpg|thumb|Children in [[Washington DC]] wearing {{transl|ko|hanbok}}]]
 
=== Foreign influences in design ===
==Occasions==
The clothing of Korea's rulers and aristocrats after AD 7, was influenced by both foreign and [[Indigenous peoples|indigenous]] styles, including significant influences from various [[Chinese dynasties]], resulting in some styles of clothing, such as the {{transl|zh|[[Shenyi|simui]]}} from [[Song dynasty]],<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Kim |first=In-Suk |date=1977 |title=심의고(深依考) |url=http://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO197720336527429.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |volume=1 |pages=101–117 |issn=1229-6880}}</ref> ''[[gwanbok]]'' worn by male officials were generally adopted from and/or influenced by the court clothing system of the [[Tang dynasty|Tang]],<ref name=":22" /><ref name=":17">{{Cite journal |last=Kyu-Seong |first=Choi |date=2004 |title=A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty |url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200430710432076.page |journal=The Research Journal of the Costume Culture |volume=12 |issue=6 |pages=1060–1069 |issn=1226-0401}}</ref> [[Song dynasty|Song]],<ref name=":17" /> and [[Ming dynasty|Ming dynasties]],<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1059514121 |title=Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia |date=2018 |others=Kyunghee Pyun, Aida Yuen Wong |isbn=978-3-319-97199-5 |location=Cham, Switzerland |pages=116 |oclc=1059514121}}</ref> and Court clothing of women in the court and women of royalty were adapted from the clothing style of [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] and [[Ming dynasty|Ming]] dynasties,<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/156808055 |title=The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history |date=2008 |others=Jill Condra |isbn=978-0-313-33662-1 |location=Westport, Connecticut |oclc=156808055}}</ref><ref>McCallion, 2008, p. 221 - 228</ref> the [[Terlig|''cheolik'']] from the Mongol clothing and bestowed from the Ming court,<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Cho |first1=Woohyun |last2=Yi |first2=Jaeyoon |last3=Kim |first3=Jinyoung |date=2015 |title=The dress of the Mongol Empire: Genealogy and diaspora of the Terlig |url=https://akjournals.com/doi/10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2 |journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae |language=en |volume=68 |issue=3 |pages=22–29 |doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2 |issn=0001-6446}}</ref> and the ''[[magoja]]'' from Manchu clothing.
 
The cultural exchange was also bilateral and [[Goryeo]] hanbok had cultural influence on some [[Fashion in Yuan dynasty|clothing of Yuan dynasty]] worn by the upper class (i.e. the clothing worn by Mongol royal women's clothing<ref name=":102" /> and in the Yuan imperial court<ref name=":0" />).<ref>고려(高麗)의 원(元)에 대(對)한 공녀(貢女),유홍렬,震檀學報,1957</ref> Commoners were less influenced by these foreign fashion trends, and mainly wore a style of indigenous clothing distinct from that of the upper classes.<ref name="Daum Global">{{cite web |script-title=ko:옷의 역사 |url=http://donation.enc.daum.net/wikidonation/ency.do?vol=008&code=005002003000000000 |publisher=[[Daum Communications|Daum]] / [[Global World Encyclopedia]] |language=ko}}</ref>
 
== Occasions ==
[[File:Korean.costume-Hanbok-wedding.bride-01.jpg|thumb|140px|''[[Hwarot]]'', bride clothes]]
Hanbok is classified according to its purposes: everyday dress, ceremonial dress, and special dress. Ceremonial dresses are worn on formal occasions, including a child's first birthday, a wedding, or a funeral. Special dresses are made for shamans and officials.<ref name="asia-planet.net"/>
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Hanbok was worn daily up until just 100 years ago, it was originally designed to facilitate ease of movement. But now, it is only worn on festive occasions or special anniversaries.<ref>(Korea.net 2011, May Hanbok Korean Traditional clothes)</ref> It is a formal dress and most Koreans keep a hanbok for special times in their life such as wedding, Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving), and Seollnal (Korean New Year's), Children wear hanbok during their first birthday celebration ([[Hangul]]: 돌잔치) etc.<ref>{{cite web |title=Chuseok Hanbok |url=https://chuseok.org/chuseok-hanbok/ |website=Chuseok.org}}</ref> While the traditional hanbok was beautiful in its own right, the design has changed slowly over the generations. The core of hanbok is its graceful shape and vibrant colors, it is hard to think of hanbok as everyday wear but it is slowly being revolutionized through the changing of fabrics, colors and features, reflecting the desire of people.
 
Women's Traditionaltraditional Hanbok{{transl|ko|hanbok}} consist of jeogori, which is a type of jacket, and chima, which is a wrap around skirt that is usually worn with a petticoat underneath. A man's hanbok consists of jeogori (jacket) and baggy pants that are called baji. There are also additional outer layers, such as the Po which is an outer coat, or robe, jokki which is a type of vest and magoja which is an outer jacket worn over jeogori for warmth and style.<ref>Sarah H, Jeong (2006, February) Hanbok, Korean Traditional Dress</ref>
 
The color of hanbok symbolized social position and marital status. Bright colors, for example, were generally worn by children and girls, and muted hues by middle aged men and women. Unmarried women often wore yellow jeogori and red chima while matrons wore green and red, and women with sons donned navy. The upper classes wore a variety of colorscolours. Contrastingly, commoners were required to wear white, but dressed in shades of pale pink, light green, gray and charcoal on special occasions.
Also, the status and position can be identified by the material of the hanbok. The upper classes dressed in hanbok of closely woven ramie cloth or other high grade lightweight materials in warmer months and of plain and patterned silks throughout the remainder of the year. Commoners, in contrast, were restricted to cotton. Patterns were embroidered on hanbok to represent the wishes of the wearer. Peonies on a wedding dress, represented a wish for honor and wealth. Lotus flowers symbolized a hope for nobility, and bats and pomegranates showed the desire for children. Dragons, phoenixes, cranes and tigers were only for royalty and high-ranking officials.<ref>Misie Lander (2017, January). Hanbok: An Introduction to South Korea's National Dress</ref>
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==History==
=== Three Kingdoms of Korea ===
[[File:7th century painting of Koreans.png|thumb|7th-century Chinese [[Tang dynasty]] painting of envoys from the Three Kingdoms of Korea: Baekje, Goguryeo, and Silla.]]
The hanbok can be traced back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period (57 BC to 668 AD).<ref>{{cite book|last1=Myeong-Jong|first1=Yoo|title=The Discovery of Korea: History-Nature-Cultural Heritages-Art-Tradition-Cities|date=2005|publisher=Discovery Media|isbn=978-8995609101|page=123}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-ZuImINv0soC&pg=PA366|title=Peoples of Eastern Asia|date=2004|publisher=Marshall Cavendish|isbn=9780761475545|editor1-last=Macdonald|editor1-first=Fiona|page=366|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref><ref name=":82">{{cite book|last1=Lee|first1=Samuel Songhoon|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ|title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition|date=2015|publisher=Seoul Selection|isbn=9781624120565|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref><ref name="KCIS2">{{cite book|last1=Korean Culture and Information Service (South Korea)|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=NoxoBgAAQBAJ&pg=PA90|title=Guide to Korean Culture: Korea's cultural heritage|date=2014|publisher=길잡이미디어|isbn=9788973755714|page=90|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref> The origin of ancient hanbok can be found in the ancient clothing of what is now today's Northern Korea and [[Manchuria]].<ref name="Greenwood2">{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC&pg=PA223|title=The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History, Volume II|date=2008|publisher=Greenwood Publishing Group|isbn=9780313336645|editor1-last=Condra|editor1-first=Jill|page=223|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref> Some hypothesize that the hanbok of antiquity can trace its origin to nomadic clothing of the [[Eurasian Steppes]], spanning across Siberia from western Asia to Northeast Asia, interconnected by the [[Steppe Route]].<ref name="kim 7 154">Kim, Moon Ja, 2004, 7-15</ref><ref name="Lee, Kyung-Ja, 20035">Lee, Kyung-Ja, 2003</ref><ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계">{{cite journal|title=스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로|journal=한국의상디자인학회지|volume=20( 1)|pages=61–77|doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61|doi-access=free}}</ref> Reflecting its [[nomad]]ic origins in western and northern Asia, ancient hanbok shared structural similarities with ''[[Hufu (clothing)|hobok]]'' type clothing of the nomadic cultures in East Asia'','' designed to facilitate horse-riding and ease of movement.<ref name=":52" /><ref name=":2">{{cite web |last=Kim |first=Munja |title=우리역사넷 |url=http://contents.history.go.kr/front/km/view.do?levelId=km_009_0030_0010 |website=National Institute of Korean History}}</ref><ref name="한국의상디자인학회지22">{{cite journal|last1=김소희|last2=채금석|year=2018|title=Scythai's clothing type and style: Focusing on the relationship with ancient Korea|journal=한국의상디자인학회지|volume=20( 1)|pages=61–77|doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61|doi-access=free}}</ref>
The earliest visual depictions of {{transl|ko|hanbok}} can be traced back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period (57 BC to 668 AD).<ref>{{cite book|last1=Myeong-Jong|first1=Yoo|title=The Discovery of Korea: History-Nature-Cultural Heritages-Art-Tradition-Cities|date=2005|publisher=Discovery Media|isbn=978-8995609101|page=123}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-ZuImINv0soC&pg=PA366|title=Peoples of Eastern Asia|date=2004|publisher=Marshall Cavendish|isbn=9780761475545|editor1-last=Macdonald|editor1-first=Fiona|page=366|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref><ref name=":82">{{cite book|last1=Lee|first1=Samuel Songhoon|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ|title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition|date=2015|publisher=Seoul Selection|isbn=9781624120565|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref><ref name="KCIS2">{{cite book|last1=Korean Culture and Information Service (South Korea)|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=NoxoBgAAQBAJ&pg=PA90|title=Guide to Korean Culture: Korea's cultural heritage|date=2014|publisher=길잡이미디어|isbn=9788973755714|page=90|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref> The origin of ancient {{transl|ko|hanbok}} can be found in the ancient clothing of what is now today's Northern Korea and [[Manchuria]].<ref name="Greenwood2">{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC&pg=PA223|title=The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History, Volume II|date=2008|publisher=Greenwood Publishing Group|isbn=9780313336645|editor1-last=Condra|editor1-first=Jill|page=223|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref> Some hypothesize that the {{transl|ko|hanbok}} of antiquity can trace its origin to nomadic clothing of the [[Eurasian Steppes]] ([[scythian clothing]]), spanning across Siberia from western Asia to Northeast Asia, interconnected by the [[Steppe Route]].<ref name="kim 7 154">Kim, Moon Ja, 2004, 7-15</ref><ref name="Lee, Kyung-Ja, 20035">Lee, Kyung-Ja, 2003</ref><ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계">{{cite journal|title=스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로|journal=한국의상디자인학회지|volume=20( 1)|pages=61–77|doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61|doi-access=free}}</ref> Reflecting its [[nomad]]ic origins in western and northern Asia, ancient {{transl|ko|hanbok}} shared structural similarities with ''[[Hufu (clothing)|hobok]]'' type clothing of the nomadic cultures in East Asia'','' designed to facilitate horse-riding and ease of movement,<ref name=":52" /><ref name=":2">{{cite web |last=Kim |first=Munja |title=우리역사넷 |url=http://contents.history.go.kr/front/km/view.do?levelId=km_009_0030_0010 |website=National Institute of Korean History}}</ref><ref name="한국의상디자인학회지22">{{cite journal|last1=김소희|last2=채금석|year=2018|title=Scythai's clothing type and style: Focusing on the relationship with ancient Korea|journal=한국의상디자인학회지|volume=20( 1)|pages=61–77|doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61|doi-access=free}}</ref> such as the use of trousers and jacket for male clothing and the use of left closure in its jacket.<ref name=":20">{{Cite journal |last=Chang |first=Youngsoo (Associate Professor, Department of Cultural Heritage, Gyeongju University) |date=2020 |title=Empirical Review of the Scythian Origin Theory of Ancient Korean Costumes : Analysis of Commonalities and Differences Between Artifacts of the two Costume Types |script-title=ko:한국 고대복식의 스키타이 복식 유래설에 대한 실증적 검토 - 유물에 나타난 두 복식유형간의 공통점 및 차이점 분석 - |url=https://www.dbpia.co.kr/journal/articleDetail?nodeId=NODE09329939 |journal=복식 |language=ko |volume=70 |issue=2 |pages=188–208 |doi=10.7233/jksc.2020.70.2.188}}</ref> However, although the ancient {{transl|ko|hanbok}} reflects some similarity with the [[scythian clothing]], numerous differences between the two types of clothing have also been observed which led associated professor Youngsoo Chang from the Department of Cultural Properties in Gyeongju University in 2020 to suggest that the theory about scythian clothing being the archetype of the ancient {{transl|ko|hanbok}}, a theory accepted as common knowledge in Korean accademia, having to be revised.<ref name=":20" /> It is also important to note that the [[Goguryeo]] tomb murals were primarily painted in two geographical regions: [[Ji'an, Jilin|Ji'an]] ({{Lang-zh|c=集安|labels=no}}) and [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]].<ref name=":022">{{Cite magazine |last=National Museum of Korea Editorial Team |date=Spring 2009 |title=National Museum of Korea Vol.07 |url=https://www.museum.go.kr/site/main/filedown/QyNK362iLTX2yTPd6BVglg== |magazine=Quarterly Magazine |volume=7 |issue=7 |access-date=2022-06-26}}</ref>{{Rp|page=15}} The former is the second capital of Goguryeo while the latter is the third capital of Goguryeo from the mid-fourth to the mid-seventh centuries.<ref name=":022" />{{Rp|page=15}} While the mural paintings found in regions Ji'an typically shows the characteristics of Goguryeo people in terms of their customs and morals; those from the regions of Pyeongyang typically show the cultural influences of the [[Han dynasty]] as the Han dynasty had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years, including Chinese-style clothing.<ref name=":022" />{{Rp|page=15}}
 
==== Goguryeo ====
Early forms of Hanbok can be seen in the art of [[Goguryeo tombs|Goguryeo tomb]] murals in the same period from the 6th century AD.<ref name="KCIS2"/><ref name="Greenwood2"/><ref name="한국의상디자인학회지22"/><ref>Nelson, 1993, p.7 & p.213-214</ref> Trousers, long jackets and ''twii'' (a sash-like belt) were worn by both men and women. Women wore skirts on top of their trousers. These basic structural and features of hanbok remain relatively unchanged to this day,<ref>{{cite web|author=[[Korea Tourism Organization]]|date=November 20, 2008|title=The beauty of Korean tradition - Hanbok|url=http://www.korea.net/news/News/LangView.asp?serial_no=20081111006|publisher=Korea.net}}</ref> except for the length and the ways the ''jeogori'' opening was closed as over the years.<ref name=":82"/> The ''jeogori'' opening was initially closed at the center front of the clothing, similar to a [[kaftan]] or closed to the left, before closing to the right side eventually became mainstream.<ref name=":82"/> Since the sixth century AD, the closing of the ''jeogori'' at the right became a standard practice.<ref name=":82"/> The length of the female ''jeogori'' also varied.<ref name=":82"/> For example, women's ''jeogori'' seen in Goguryeo paintings of late 5th century AD are depicted shorter in length than the man's ''jeogori''.<ref name=":82"/>
Early forms of {{transl|ko|hanbok}} can be seen in the art of [[Goguryeo tombs|Goguryeo tomb]] murals in the same period from the 4th to 6th century AD.<ref name="KCIS2" /><ref name="Greenwood2" /><ref name="한국의상디자인학회지22" /><ref>Nelson, 1993, p.7 & p.213-214</ref> Trousers, long jackets and ''twii'' (a sash-like belt) were worn by both men and women. Women wore skirts on top of their trousers. These basic structural and features of hanbok remain relatively unchanged to this day,<ref>{{cite web|author=[[Korea Tourism Organization]]|date=November 20, 2008|title=The beauty of Korean tradition - Hanbok|url=http://www.korea.net/news/News/LangView.asp?serial_no=20081111006|publisher=Korea.net}}</ref> except for the length and the ways the ''jeogori'' opening was closed as over the years.<ref name=":82" /> The ''jeogori'' opening was initially closed at the center front of the clothing, similar to a [[kaftan]] or closed to the left, before closing to the right side eventually became mainstream.<ref name=":82" /> Since the sixth century AD, the closing of the ''jeogori'' at the right became a standard practice.<ref name=":82" /> The length of the female ''jeogori'' also varied.<ref name=":82" /> For example, women's ''jeogori'' seen in Goguryeo paintings of late 5th century AD are depicted shorter in length than the man's ''jeogori''.<ref name=":82" />
 
In early Goguryeo, the ''jeogori'' jackets were hip-length [[Kaftan]] tunics belted at the waist, and the ''po'' overcoats were full body-length Kaftan robes also belted at the waist. The pants were roomy, bearing close similarities to the pants found at [[Noin-Ula burial site|Xiongnu burial site of Noin Ula]].{{Citation needed|date=August 2021}} Some Goguryeo aristocrats wore roomy pants with tighter bindings at the ankle than others, which may have been status symbols along with length, cloth material, and colour. Women sometimes wore pants or otherwise wore pleated skirts. They sometimes wore pants underneath their skirts.<ref name=":15">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/843418851|title=Encyclopedia of national dress : traditional clothing around the world|date=2013|others=Jill Condra|isbn=978-0-313-37637-5|location=Santa Barbara, Calif.|pages=409|oclc=843418851}}</ref>
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During this period, [[Pointed hat|conical hat]] and its similar variants, sometimes adorned with long bird feathers,<ref>{{Cite journal |last=권준희 |date=2003 |title=The Jolpung(折風) shaped headgear of Koguryo(高句麗) and Shilla(新羅) |url=https://www.kci.go.kr/kciportal/ci/sereArticleSearch/ciSereArtiView.kci?sereArticleSearchBean.artiId=ART000851432 |journal=Journal of Korean Traditional Costume |language=kr |volume=6 |issue=3 |pages=6–84 |issn=1598-8295}}</ref> were worn as headgear.<ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계"/> Bird feather ornaments, and bird and tree motifs of golden crowns, are thought to be symbolic connections to the sky.{{Citation needed|date=August 2021}}
 
The Goguryeo period royal attire was known as ''ochaebok''.<ref name=":82"/> The precursor of what is now known as the ''[[durumagi]]'' was introduced during the Goguryeo period from a long coat worn by Northern Chinese.<ref name=":82" /> Originally the ''durumagi'' was worn by the upper class of Goguryeo for various ceremonies and rituals. It was later modified and worn by the general population.<ref name=":82" /> In Muyong-chong murals of ''[[Goguryeo]]'', there are male dancers in short jeogori with long flexible sleeves and female dancers wearing long coats with long flexible sleeves, all performing a dance. This type of long sleeves, similar to the Chinese [[Water sleeves|water-sleeves]], was passed down to Goryeo, Joseon, and present day [[Korean dance|Korean court dances]] and [[Korean shamanism|mu-ism]] rituals.{{Citation needed|date=July 2022}}
 
<gallery>
File:Goguryeo tomb mural.jpg|A Goguryeo man in a hunting attire from [[Capital Cities and Tombs of the Ancient Koguryo Kingdom]], 5th century A.D., Jilin province, China.
File:Goguryeo servants.jpg|Goguryeo servants wearing a Chima (skirt) and a long jeogori jacket, Goguryeo mural paintings in Jilin province, China, 5th-century AD.
File:7th century painting of Koreans.png|7th-century Chinese [[Tang dynasty]] painting of envoys from the Three Kingdoms of Korea: Baekje, Goguryeo, and Silla.
File:Goguryeo tomb 07.jpg
File:수산리 고구려벽화.jpg
</gallery>
</gallery>The Goguryeo period royal attire was known as ''ochaebok''.<ref name=":82"/> The precursor of what is now known as the ''[[durumagi]]'' was introduced during the Goguryeo period from a long coat worn by Northern Chinese.<ref name=":82" /> Originally the ''durumagi'' was worn by the upper class of Goguryeo for various ceremonies and rituals. It was later modified and worn by the general population.<ref name=":82" /> In Muyong-chong murals of ''[[Goguryeo]]'', there are male dancers in short jeogori with long flexible sleeves and female dancers wearing long coats with long flexible sleeves, all performing a dance. This type of long sleeves, similar to the Chinese [[Water sleeves|water-sleeves]], was passed down to Goryeo, Joseon, and present day [[Korean dance|Korean court dances]] and [[Korean shamanism|mu-ism]] rituals.{{Citation needed|date=July 2022}}
 
=== North-South States period ===
In the [[North-South States Period]] (698–926 AD), [[Silla]] and [[Balhae]] adopted ''[[dallyeong]]'', a [[circular-collar robe]] from the [[Tang dynasty]] of China.<ref>Lee, Tae-ok. Cho, Woo-hyun. Study on Danryung structure. Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference. 2003. pp. 49-49.</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite journal|last1=Nam|first1=Min-yi|last2=Han|first2=Myung-Sook|date=2000|title=A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds|url=http://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200011920805632.page|journal=The International Journal of Costume Culture|volume=3|issue=2|pages=100–123}}</ref> In Silla, the ''[[Round collar robe|dallyeong]]'' was introduced by [[Muyeol of Silla]] in the second year of queen [[Jindeok of Silla]].<ref name=":1"/><ref name=":22"/> The ''dallyeong'' style from China was used as ''[[gwanbok]]'', a formal attire for government officials, grooms, and ''[[dragon robe]]'', a formal attire for royalty until the end of Joseon.<ref name=":1"/>
 
==== United Silla ====
The [[Silla]] Kingdom unified the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea|Three Kingdoms]] in 668 AD. The [[Later Silla|Unified Silla]] (668-935 AD) was the golden age of Korea. In Unified Silla, various silks, linens, and fashions were imported from [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] China and Persia. In the process, the latest fashions trend of [[Luoyang]] which included Chinese dress styles, the second capital of Tang, were also introduced to Korea, where the Korean silhouette became similar to the Western [[Empire silhouette]]. King [[Muyeol of Silla]] personally travelled to the [[Tang dynasty]] to voluntarily request for clothes and belts; it is however difficult to determine which specific form and type of clothing was bestowed although Silla requested the bokdu (幞頭; a form of hempen hood during this period), [[Round collar robe|danryunpo]] (團領袍; round collar gown), [[banbi]], baedang (䘯襠), and pyo (褾).<ref name=":22">{{Cite journal|last1=Yu|first1=Ju-Ri|last2=Kim|first2=Jeong-Mee|date=2006|title=A Study on Costume Culture Interchange Resulting from Political Factors|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles|volume=30|issue=3|pages=458–469}}</ref> Based on archaeological findings, it is assumed that the clothing which was brought back during Queen Jindeok rule are ''danryunpo'' and ''bokdu''.<ref name=":22"/> The bokdu also become part of the official dress code of royal aristocrats, court musicians, servants, and slaves during the reign of [[Jindeok of Silla|Queen Jindeok]]; it continued to be used throughout the Goryeo dynasty.<ref>{{Cite book|last=National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/846696816|title=Gat : traditional headgear in Korea|date=2013|publisher=길잡이미디어|others=Hyŏng-bak Pak, Eunhee Hwang, Kungnip Munhwajae Yŏn'guso|isbn=978-89-6325-987-1|location=Daejeon, Korea|oclc=846696816}}</ref> In 664 AD, [[Munmu of Silla]] decreed that the costume of the queen should resemble the costume of the [[Tang dynasty]]; and thus, women's costume also accepted the costume culture of the [[Tang dynasty]].<ref name=":22"/> Women also sought to imitate the clothing of the Tang dynasty through the adoption of shoulder straps attached to their skirts and wore the skirts over the ''jeogori''.<ref name=":22"/><ref name=":21">{{Cite book|last=Lee|first=Samuel Songhoon.|url=http://worldcat.org/oclc/871061483|title=Hanbok : Timeless fashion tradition|year=2013|isbn=978-89-97639-41-0|oclc=871061483}}</ref> The influence of the Tang dynasty during this time was significant and the Tang court dress regulations were adopted in the Silla court.<ref name=":15" /><ref name=":9">{{Cite book|last=Pratt|first=Keith L.|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/42675362|title=Korea : a historical and cultural dictionary|date=1999|publisher=Curzon Press|others=Richard Rutt, James Hoare|isbn=978-0-7007-0464-4|location=Richmond, Surrey|pages=106|oclc=42675362}}</ref> The clothing of the Tang dynasty introduced in Silla made the clothing attire of Silla Court extravagant, and due to the extravagance, [[Heungdeok of Silla|King Heundeog]] enforced clothing prohibition during the year 834 AD.<ref name=":22" /> The general public of Silla continued to wear their own traditional clothing.<ref name=":22" />
 
<gallery>
Line 162 ⟶ 169:
 
=== Goryeo dynasty ===
The Chinese style imported in the Northern-South period, however, did not affect {{transl|ko|hanbok}} still used by the commoners,{{Citation needed|date=January 2022|reason=Need a clear source}} In the following Goryeo period, use of the Chinese Tang dynasty style of wearing the skirt over the top started to fade, and the wearing of top over skirt was revived in the aristocrat class.<ref name="Koreana2">{{cite journal|author=Cho, Woo-hyun|title=Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development|url=http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/13-Clothing/13-95aut-charateristics.html|publisher=Koreana|volume=9|issue=3}}{{dead link|date=December 2017|bot=InternetArchiveBot|fix-attempted=yes}}</ref><ref name="Hanstyle2">{{cite web|script-title=ko:유행과 우리옷|trans-title=Fashion and Korean clothing|url=http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120302181258/http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp|archive-date=2012-03-02|publisher=Korea the sense|language=ko}}</ref> The way of wearing the top under the chima (Tang-style influenced fashion) did not disappear in Goryeo and continued to coexist with the indigenous style of wearing of the top over skirt throughout the entire Goryeo dynasty; this Tang-style influenced fashion continued to be worn until the early Joseon dynasty and only disappeared in the middle and late Joseon periods.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=김남정|date=2000|title=조선시대 치마에 관한 연구|url=https://dspace.ewha.ac.kr/handle/2015.oak/184592}}</ref>
 
In [[Goryeo Buddhist paintings]], the clothing and headwear of royalty and nobles typically follows the clothing system of the [[Song dynasty]].<ref name=":72">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1154853080|title=A companion to Korean art|date=2020|others=J. P. Park, Burglind Jungmann, Juhyung Rhi|isbn=978-1-118-92702-1|location=Hoboken, NJ|pages=192|oclc=1154853080}}</ref> The Goryeo painting "Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara", for example, is a buddhistBuddhist painting which was derived from both Chinese and Central Asian pictorial references.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/38831761|title=Arts of Korea|date=1998|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|others=Yang-mo Chŏng, Judith G. Smith, Metropolitan Museum of Art|isbn=0-87099-850-1|location=New York|pages=436|oclc=38831761}}</ref> On the other hand, the Chinese clothing worn in [[Yuan dynasty]] rarely appeared in paintings of Goryeo.<ref name=":72" /> The Song dynasty system was later exclusively used by Goryeo Kings and Goryeo government officials after the period when [[Goryeo under Mongol rule|Goryeo was under Mongol rule]] (1270 –1356).<ref name=":18">{{Cite journal|last1=Chae|first1=Keum Seok|last2=Kim|first2=Eun Kyoung|date=2016|title=The Study on Costume Shapes through Goryeo Dynasty Paintings -Comparison with Song and Yuan Style-|url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO201608967046815.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles|volume=40|issue=6|pages=1116–1133|doi=10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.6.1116|issn=1225-1151}}</ref> However, even in the Buddhist painting of the late Goryeo, such as the ''Royal Palace Mandala'', the courting ladies are depicted in Tang and Song dynasty-style court dress clothing, which is a different style from the Mongol Yuan court.<ref name=":18" />
 
<gallery>
File:Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara (detailed view of patrons).jpg|Details of the ''Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara'' painting shows a group of nobles (possibly the donors) dress in court clothing, Goryeo painting.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/38831761|title=Arts of Korea|date=1998|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|others=Yang-mo Chŏng, Judith G. Smith, Metropolitan Museum of Art|isbn=0-87099-850-1|location=New York|pages=435–436|oclc=38831761}}</ref>
File:Goryeohanbok.jpg|alt=A noblewoman's attire in ''Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara'',It were chima jeogori,it was a Goryeo dynasty painting, 1323 AD.|Chima-jeogori, a noblewoman's attire in ''Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara'', Goryeo dynasty painting, 1323 AD.<ref name=":18" />
File:王宮曼荼羅図.jpg|Court ladies wearing the Tang and Song dynasty style clothing, from the painting ''Royal Palace Mandala'', late Goryeo
File:Goryeo lady joban.jpg|Portrait of Lady Jo ban (1341-1401 AD), Goryeo dynasty.
File:밀양고법리박익벽화묘1.jpg|Ordinary people's clothing,<ref name=":18" /> Mural tomb of Bak Ik in Gobeop-ri, Miryang. Bak Ik was a civil official who lived from 1332 to 1398 AD.
File:Korea-National.Treasure-110-Yi.Jehyung-portrait-NMK.jpg|Portrait of Yi Je-hyeon (1287–1367 AD) of the Goryeo dynasty, wearing [[Shenyi|simui]].
</gallery>Hanbok went through significant changes under Mongol rule. After the [[Goryeo]] dynasty signed a peace treaty with the [[Mongol Empire]] in the 13th century, Mongolian princesses who married into the Korean royal house brought with them Mongolian fashion which began to prevail in both formal and private life.<ref name=":22"/><ref name="Lee, Kyung-Ja, 20035" /><ref name="koreanculture.org">{{cite web|url=http://www.koreanculture.org/06about_korea/symbols/01hanbok.htm |title=Hanbok |publisher=Korean Overseas Information Service}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://uriculture.com/s_menu.html?menu_mcat=100540&menu_cat=100001&img_num=sub1|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110717173525/http://uriculture.com/s_menu.html?menu_mcat=100540&menu_cat=100001&img_num=sub1|url-status=dead|archive-date=17 July 2011|title=UriCulture.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}</ref> A total of seven women from the Yuan imperial family were married to the Kings of Goryeo.<ref name=":0" /> The [[Yuan dynasty]] princess followed the Mongol lifestyle who was instructed to not abandon the Yuan traditions in regards to clothingsclothing and precedents.<ref name=":22"/> As a consequence, the clothing of Yuan was worn in the Goryeo court and impacted the clothing worn by the upper-class families who visited the Goryeo court.<ref name=":22"/> The Yuan clothing culture which influenced the upper classes and in some extent the general public is called ''Mongolpung''.<ref name=":0" /> King Chungryeol, who was political hostage to the [[Yuan dynasty]] and pro-Yuan, married the princess of Yuan announcing a royal edict to change into Mongol clothing.<ref name=":22"/> After the fall of the [[Yuan dynasty]], only Mongol clothing which were beneficial and suitable to Goryeo culture were maintained while the others disappeared.<ref name=":22"/> As a result of the Mongol influence, the ''chima'' skirt was shortened, and ''jeogori'' was hiked up above the waist and tied at the chest with a long, wide ribbon, the {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}}''goruemg'' (an extending ribbon tied on the right side) instead of the ''twii'' (i.e. the early sash-like belt) and the sleeves were curved slightly.{{Citation needed|date=May 2021}}
 
The cultural exchange was also bilateral and Goryeo had cultural influence on the [[Mongols]] court of the [[Yuan dynasty]] (1279–1368); one example is the influence of Goryeo women's hanbok on the attire of aristocrats, queens, and concubines of the Mongol court which occurred in the capital city, [[Khanbaliq]].<ref>Kim, Ki Sun, 2005. v. 5, 81-97.</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://news.naver.com/main/read.nhn?mode=LSD&mid=sec&sid1=001&oid=028&aid=0000100944&|title=News.Naver.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www1.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28414.htm|title=ChinaCulture.org|access-date=8 October 2014|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141124213026/http://www.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28414.htm|archive-date=24 November 2014}}</ref> However, this influence on the Mongol court clothing mainly occurred in the last years of the Yuan dynasty.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Yang|first=Shaorong|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=nx5JDiacrH4C&q=korea&pg=PA16|title=Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture|date=2004|publisher=Long River Press|isbn=978-1-59265-019-4|page=6}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite journal|last1=Kim|first1=Jinyoung|last2=Lee|first2=Jaeyeong|last3=Lee|first3=Jongoh|date=2015|title="GORYEOYANG" AND "MONGOLPUNG" in the 13th-14th CENTURIES|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/43957480|journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae|volume=68|issue=3|pages=281–292|doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.3.3|jstor=43957480|issn=0001-6446}}</ref> Throughout the Yuan dynasty, many people from Goryeo were forced to move into the Yuan; most of them were ''kongnyo'' (literally translated as "tribute women"), eunuchs, and war prisoners.<ref name=":0" /><ref>{{Cite journal|last=Soh|first=Chung-Hee|date=2004|title=Women's Sexual Labor and State in Korean History|url=http://muse.jhu.edu/content/crossref/journals/journal_of_womens_history/v015/15.4soh.html|journal=Journal of Women's History|volume=15|issue=4|pages=170–177|doi=10.1353/jowh.2004.0022|s2cid=144785547|issn=1527-2036}}</ref> About 2000 women from Goryeo were sent to Yuan as ''kongnyo'' against their will.<ref name=":0" /> Although women from Goryeo were considered very beautiful and good servants, most of them lived in unfortunate situations, marked by hard labour and sexual abuse.<ref name=":0" /> However, this fate was not reserved to all of them; and one Goryeo woman became the last Empress of the Yuan dynasty; this was [[Empress Gi]] who was elevated as empress in 1365.<ref name=":0" /> Most of the cultural influence that Goryeo exerted on the upper class of the Yuan dynasty occurred when Empress Gi came into power as empress and started to recruit many Goryeo women as court maids.<ref name=":0" /> The influence of Goryeo on the Mongol court's clothing during the Yuan dynasty was dubbed as ''Goryeoyang'' ("the Goryeo style") and was rhapsodized by the Late Yuan dynasty poet, Zhang Xu, in the form of a short [[banbi]] (半臂) with square collar (方領).<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":102">{{Cite journal|last=Choi|first=Hai-Yaul|date=2007|title=A Study on the Design of Historical Costume for Making Movie & Multimedia -Focused on Rich Women's Costume of Goryeo-Yang and Mongol-Pung in the 13th to 14th Century-|url=http://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO200708508472010.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume|volume=57|issue=1|pages=176–186|issn=1229-6880}}</ref> However, so far, the modern interpretation on the appearance of Mongol royal women's clothing influenced by Goryeo is based on authors' suggestions.<ref name=":102"/> According to Hyunhee Park: "Like the Mongolian style, it is possible that this Koryŏ style [''Koryŏ yang''] continued to influence some Chinese in the Ming period after the Ming dynasty replaced the Yuan dynasty, a topic to investigate further."<ref>{{Cite book|last=Park|first=Hyunhee|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1198087560|title=Soju : a global history|date=2021|isbn=978-1-108-89577-4|location=Cambridge|pages=124–125|oclc=1198087560}}</ref> Tracing the development and evolution of {{Transliteration|ko|goryeoyang}} (高麗樣), it can be found that the popular {{Transliteration|ko|banryeong banbi}} (方領半臂)during the Yuan Dynasty were actually the result of the influence of ancient Chinese costumes on the Korean Peninsula before the Yuan Dynasty. According to the 高麗史·舆服志<ref>高麗史·舆服志</ref>[https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E9%AB%98%E9%BA%97%E5%8F%B2/%E5%8D%B7%E4%B8%83%E5%8D%81%E4%BA%8C#冠服通制], the Goryeo costume system inherited the costume system of the Tang Dynasty. The half arm was developed from the half sleeves in the Han and Wei Dynasties. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the half arm became a fashionable dress for women. In the Tang Dynasty, half-arms were worn on top of the coat, or under the coat and on top of the mid-single. With the lower skirt, the half-arm shirt appeared in the form of a placket. The half arm of the Tang Dynasty spread to the Korean peninsula, and continued to be inherited and developed during the Goryeo Dynasty, becoming an important costume of the Goryeo Dynasty.
 
The cultural exchange was also bilateral and Goryeo had cultural influence on the [[Mongols]] court of the [[Yuan dynasty]] (1279–1368); one example is the influence of Goryeo women's hanbok on the attire of aristocrats, queens, and concubines of the Mongol court which occurred in the capital city, [[Khanbaliq]].<ref>Kim, Ki Sun, 2005. v. 5, 81-97.</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://news.naver.com/main/read.nhn?mode=LSD&mid=sec&sid1=001&oid=028&aid=0000100944&|title=News.Naver.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www1.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28414.htm|title=ChinaCulture.org|access-date=8 October 2014|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141124213026/http://www.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28414.htm|archive-date=24 November 2014}}</ref> However, this influence on the Mongol court clothing mainly occurred in the last years of the Yuan dynasty.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Yang|first=Shaorong|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=nx5JDiacrH4C&q=korea&pg=PA16|title=Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture|date=2004|publisher=Long River Press|isbn=978-1-59265-019-4|page=6}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite journal|last1=Kim|first1=Jinyoung|last2=Lee|first2=Jaeyeong|last3=Lee|first3=Jongoh|date=2015|title="GORYEOYANG" AND "MONGOLPUNG" in the 13th-14th CENTURIES|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/43957480|journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae|volume=68|issue=3|pages=281–292|doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.3.3|jstor=43957480|issn=0001-6446}}</ref> Throughout the Yuan dynasty, many people from Goryeo were forced to move into the Yuan; most of them were ''kongnyo'' (literally translated as "tribute women"), eunuchs, and war prisoners.<ref name=":0" /><ref>{{Cite journal|last=Soh|first=Chung-Hee|date=2004|title=Women's Sexual Labor and State in Korean History|url=http://muse.jhu.edu/content/crossref/journals/journal_of_womens_history/v015/15.4soh.html|journal=Journal of Women's History|volume=15|issue=4|pages=170–177|doi=10.1353/jowh.2004.0022|s2cid=144785547|issn=1527-2036}}</ref> About 2000 women from Goryeo were sent to Yuan as ''kongnyo'' against their will.<ref name=":0" /> Although women from Goryeo were considered very beautiful and good servants, most of them lived in unfortunate situations, marked by hard labour and sexual abuse.<ref name=":0" /> However, this fate was not reserved to all of them; and one Goryeo woman became the last Empress of the [[Yuan dynasty]]; this was [[Empress Gi]] who was elevated as empress in 1365.<ref name=":0" /> Most of the cultural influence that Goryeo exerted on the upper class of the Yuan dynasty occurred when [[Empress Gi]] came into power as empress and started to recruit many Goryeo women as court maids.<ref name=":0" /> The influence of Goryeo on the Mongol court's clothing during the Yuan dynasty was dubbed as ''Goryeoyang'' ("the Goryeo style") and was rhapsodized by the Late Yuan dynasty poet, Zhang Xu, in the form of a short [[banbi]] (半臂) with square collar (方領).<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":102">{{Cite journal|last=Choi|first=Hai-Yaul|date=2007|title=A Study on the Design of Historical Costume for Making Movie & Multimedia -Focused on Rich Women's Costume of Goryeo-Yang and Mongol-Pung in the 13th to 14th Century-|url=http://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO200708508472010.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume|volume=57|issue=1|pages=176–186|issn=1229-6880}}</ref> However, so far, the modern interpretation on the appearance of Mongol royal women's clothing influenced by Goryeo is based on authors' suggestions.<ref name=":102"/> According to Hyunhee Park: "Like the Mongolian style, it is possible that this Koryŏ style [''Koryŏ yang''] continued to influence some Chinese in the Ming period after the Ming dynasty replaced the Yuan dynasty, a topic to investigate further."<ref>{{Cite book|last=Park|first=Hyunhee|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1198087560|title=Soju : a global history|date=2021|isbn=978-1-108-89577-4|location=Cambridge|pages=124–125|oclc=1198087560}}</ref>
Tracing the development and evolution of {{Transliteration|ko|goryeoyang}} (高麗樣), it can be found that the popular banryeong [[banbi]] (方領半臂)during the Yuan Dynasty were actually the result of the influence of ancient Chinese costumes on the Korean Peninsula before the Yuan Dynasty. According to the 高麗史·舆服志<ref>高麗史·舆服志</ref>[https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E9%AB%98%E9%BA%97%E5%8F%B2/%E5%8D%B7%E4%B8%83%E5%8D%81%E4%BA%8C#冠服通制], the Goryeo costume system inherited the costume system of the Tang Dynasty. The half arm was developed from the half sleeves in the Han and Wei Dynasties. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, under the influence of the "Hufu" of the Xianbei ethnic groups in the north, the half arm became a fashionable dress for women. In the Tang Dynasty, half-arms were worn on top of the coat, or under the coat and on top of the mid-single. With the lower skirt, the half-arm shirt appeared in the form of a placket. The half arm of the Tang Dynasty spread to the Korean peninsula, and continued to be inherited and developed during the Goryeo Dynasty, becoming an important costume of the Goryeo Dynasty.
===Joseon dynasty===
{{More citations needed section|date=September 2019}}
Neo-Confucianism as the ruling ideology in Joseon was established by the early [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]] kings; this led to the dictation of clothing style worn by all social classes in Joseon (including the dress of the royals, the court members, the aristocrats and commoners) in all types of occasions, which included wedding and funerals.<ref name=":19">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/882879939 |title=Guide to Korean culture. |date=2013 |others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn |isbn=978-89-7375-571-4 |location=Seoul, Republic of Korea |pages=92 |oclc=882879939}}</ref> Social values such as the integrity in men and chastity in women were also reflected in how people would dress.<ref name=":19" /> After the [[Japanese invasions of Korea (1592–98)]] or ''Imjin War'', economic hardship on the peninsula may have influenced the closer-fitting styles that use less fabric.<ref name="Chosun Ilbo2">{{cite news |title=Five Centuries of Shrinking Korean Fashions |newspaper=Chosun Ilbo |url=http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2006/05/29/2006052961020.html |access-date=2009-06-27}}</ref>
 
==== Women's everyday wear ====
[[File:밀양고법리박익벽화묘1.jpg|thumb|Ordinary people's clothing,<ref name=":18" /> Mural tomb of Bak Ik in Gobeop-ri, Miryang. Bak Ik was a civil official who lived from 1332 to 1398 AD, Early Joseon]]
Early Joseon continued the women's fashion for baggy, loose clothing, such as those seen on the mural from the tomb of Bak Ik (1332–1398).<ref>[http://jikimi.cha.go.kr/english/search_plaza_new/ECulresult_Db_View.jsp?VdkVgwKey=13,04590000,38&queryText=(mural%3Cin%3E%20z_title)%3Cand%3E(V_EYEAR%20%3E=1350)&requery=0 Miryang gobeomni bagik byeokhwamyo (Mural tomb of Bak Ik in Gobeop-ri, Miryang)]. [[Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea|Cultural Heritage Administration]]. Accessed 15 July 2009.</ref> During the Joseon dynasty, the chima or skirt adopted fuller volume, while the jeogori or blouse took more tightened and shortened form, features quite distinct from the hanbok of previous centuries, when ''chima'' was rather slim and ''jeogori'' baggy and long, reaching well below waist level. After the [[Japanese invasions of Korea (1592–98)]] or ''Imjin War'', economic hardship on the peninsula may have influenced the closer-fitting styles that use less fabric.<ref name="Chosun Ilbo2">{{cite news|title=Five Centuries of Shrinking Korean Fashions|newspaper=Chosun Ilbo|url=http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2006/05/29/2006052961020.html|access-date=2009-06-27}}</ref>
Early Joseon continued the women's fashion for baggy, loose clothing, such as those seen on the mural from the tomb of Bak Ik (1332–1398);<ref>[http://jikimi.cha.go.kr/english/search_plaza_new/ECulresult_Db_View.jsp?VdkVgwKey=13,04590000,38&queryText=(mural%3Cin%3E%20z_title)%3Cand%3E(V_EYEAR%20%3E=1350)&requery=0 Miryang gobeomni bagik byeokhwamyo (Mural tomb of Bak Ik in Gobeop-ri, Miryang)]. [[Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea|Cultural Heritage Administration]]. Accessed 15 July 2009.</ref> the murals from the tomb of Bak Ik are valuable resources in Korean archaeology and art history for study of life and customs in the early Joseon.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Administration |first=Cultural Heritage |title=Mural Tomb of Bak Ik, Miryang - Heritage Search |url=http://english.cha.go.kr/chaen/search/selectGeneralSearchDetail.do;jsessionid=zlMQLnmvrCZ3g9fsza7XSFD2VaW1HbZAfUE3Mxu7kkbLeRDLJK64zg5QpV9bYqor.cha-was01_servlet_engine4?mn=EN_02_02&sCcebKdcd=13&ccebAsno=04590000&sCcebCtcd=38&pageIndex=279&region=&canAsset=&ccebPcd1=&searchWrd=&startNum=&endNum=&stCcebAsdt=&enCcebAsdt=&canceled=&ccebKdcd=&ccebCtcd= |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=Cultural Heritage Administration - English Site |language=en}}</ref> The women of the upper classes, the monarchy and the court wore hanbok which was inspired by the [[Ming dynasty]] clothing while simultaneously maintaining a distinctive Korean-style look; in turn, the women of the lower class generally imitated the upper-class women clothing.<ref name=":12">{{Cite book |last=Welters |first=Linda |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1004424828 |title=Fashion history : a global view |date=2018 |others=Abby Lillethun |isbn=978-1-4742-5363-5 |location=London, UK |oclc=1004424828}}</ref> During the Joseon dynasty, the chima or skirt adopted fuller volume, while the jeogori or blouse took more tightened and shortened form, features quite distinct from the hanbok of previous centuries, when ''chima'' was rather slim and ''jeogori'' baggy and long, reaching well below waist level.
 
Neo-Confucianism as the ruling ideology in Joseon was established by the early Joseon dynasty kings; this led to the dictation of clothing style worn by all social classes in Joseon (including the dress of the royals, the court members, the aristocrats and commoners) in all types of occasions, which included wedding and funerals.<ref name=":19">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/882879939|title=Guide to Korean culture.|date=2013|others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn|isbn=978-89-7375-571-4|location=Seoul, Republic of Korea|pages=92|oclc=882879939}}</ref> Social values such as the integrity in men and chastity in women were also reflected in how people would dress.<ref name=":19" /> The women of the upper classes, the monarchy and the court wore hanbok which was inspired by the [[Ming dynasty]] clothing while simultaneously maintaining a distinctive Korean-style look; in turn, the women of the lower class generally imitated the upper-class women clothing.<ref name=":12">{{Cite book|last=Welters|first=Linda|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1004424828|title=Fashion history : a global view|date=2018|others=Abby Lillethun|isbn=978-1-4742-5363-5|location=London, UK|oclc=1004424828}}</ref>
 
In the 15th century, neo-confucianism was very rooted in the social life in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries which lead to the strict regulation of clothing (including fabric use, colours of fabric, motifs, and ornaments) based on status.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC&q=Silla+hanbok&pg=PA222|title=The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history|date=2008|others=Jill Condra|isbn=978-0-313-33662-1|location=Westport, Connecticut|pages=222–223|oclc=156808055}}</ref> Neo-confucianism also influence women's wearing of full-pleated chima, longer jeogori, and multiple layers clothing in order to never reveal skin.<ref name=":11">{{Cite web |last=Murray |first=Anne Wood (Emeritus Curator of American Costume, Division of Costume, Department of Social and Cultural History, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C.) |title=Dress - Korea |url=https://www.britannica.com/topic/dress-clothing |access-date=2021-03-10 |website=Encyclopedia Britannica |quote="In the 15th century, Korean women began to wear pleated skirts (chima) and longer chŏgori, a style that was undoubtedly introduced from China."}}</ref> In the 15th century, women started wearing of full-pleated chima which completely hide the body lines and longer-length jeogori.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/882879939|title=Guide to Korean culture.|date=2013|others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn|isbn=978-89-7375-571-4|location=Seoul, Republic of Korea|pages=93|oclc=882879939}}</ref><ref name=":11" /><ref>{{Cite book|last=Yang|first=Sunny|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/39614017|title=Hanbok : the art of Korean clothing|date=1997|publisher=Hollym|isbn=1-56591-082-6|location=Elizabeth, N.J.|pages=61|oclc=39614017}}</ref> The 15th century AD ''chima-jeogori'' style was undoubtedly a clothing style introduced from China consisting of longer jeogori and pleated chima.<ref name=":11" /><gallery>
File:영의정하연부부영정4.jpg|15th century lady
File:영의정하연부부영정2.jpg|15th century lady
</gallery>However, by the 16th century, the {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} had shortened to the waist and appears to have become closer fitting, although not to the extremes of the bell-shaped silhouette of the 18th and 19th centuries.<ref>Keum, Ki-Suk "The Beauty of Korean Traditional Costume" (Seoul: Yeorhwadang, 1994) {{ISBN|89-301-1039-8}} p.43</ref><ref name="Contemporary Artwork of Women2">{{cite web|title=Contemporary Artwork of Korean Women|url=http://medieval-baltic.us/korot2.html|access-date=2009-06-27}}</ref><ref name="Chosun Ilbo2" /> In the 16th century, women's [[{{Transliteration|ko|jeogori]]}} was long, wide, and covered the waist.<ref name="저고리2">{{cite web|last1=허윤희|title=조선 여인 저고리 길이 300년간 2/3나 짧아져|url=http://news.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2011/06/27/2011062702249.html|access-date=6 September 2019|website=조선닷컴|language=ko}}</ref> The length of women's {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} gradually shortened: it was approximately 65&nbsp;cm65cm in the 16th century, 55&nbsp;cm55cm in the 17th century, 45&nbsp;cm45cm in the 18th century, and 28&nbsp;cm28cm in the 19th century, with some as short as 14.5&nbsp;cm5cm.<ref name="저고리2" /> A {{Transliteration|ko|heoritti}} (허리띠) or {{Transliteration|ko|jorinmal}} (졸잇말) was worn to cover the breasts.<ref name="저고리2" /> The trend of wearing a short jeogori with a heoritti was started by the [[gisaeng]] and soon spread to women of the upper class.<ref name="저고리2" /> Among women of the common and lowborn classes, a practice emerged in which they [[Toplessness|revealed their breasts]] by removing a cloth to make breastfeeding more convenient.<ref>{{cite journal|last1=Han|first1=Hee-sook|date=2004|title=Women's Life during the Chosŏn Dynasty|url=https://ijkh.khistory.org/journal/view.php?number=342|journal=International Journal of Korean History|volume=6|issue=1|page=142|access-date=6 September 2019}}</ref> As there was an excessive preference for boys in the Joseon dynasty, the deliberate exposure of breast eventually became a cultural practice and an indicator of women's pride and status symbol in having given birth to a son and thus she would "proudly bare her breasts to feed her child, deliberately provoking the envy of other women".<ref name=":21" />
 
During the 17th and 18th centuries the fullness of the skirt was concentrated around the hips, thus forming a silhouette similar to Western bustles. In the eighteenth18th century, the ''jeogori'' became very short to the point that the waistband of the ''chima'' was visible; this style was first seen on female entertainers at the Joseon court.<ref name=":12" /> The ''jeogori'' continued to shorten until it reached the modern times ''jeogori''-length; i.e. just covering the breasts.<ref name=":11" /> During the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries the fullness of the skirt was concentrated around the hips, thus forming a silhouette similar to Western bustles. The fullness of the skirt reached its extreme around 1800. During the 19th century fullness of the skirt was achieved around the knees and ankles thus giving ''chima'' a triangular or an A-shaped silhouette, which is still the preferred style to this day. Many [[Sokgot|undergarments]] such as ''darisokgot,'' ''soksokgot,'' ''dansokgot'', and ''gojengi'' were worn underneath to achieve desired forms.<gallery>
File:Chimajeogori002.jpg|Women's hanbok consists of ''chima'' skirt and ''jeogori'' shirt by Shin Yunbok
 
File:18thcentury maid.jpg|Full skirt and tight ''jeogori'' were considered fashionable. 18th century.
A clothes reformation movement aimed at lengthening ''jeogori'' experienced wide success in the early 20th century and has continued to influence the shaping of modern hanbok. Modern ''jeogori'' are longer, although still halfway between the waistline and the breasts. ''Heoritti'' are sometimes exposed for aesthetic reasons. At the end of the 19th century, as mentioned above, Heungseon Daewongun introduced ''[[magoja]]'', a Manchu-style jacket, which is often worn over ''jeogori'' to this day.<gallery>
File:Yangban.jpg|A rare painting of ''[[yangban]]'' women. ''Yangban'' ladies were sensitive to "fashion fads" which worried [[Seonbi]] scholars. 18th century.
Image:Chimajeogori002.jpg|Women's hanbok consists of ''chima'' skirt and ''jeogori'' shirt.
File:18thcentury innerwear.jpg|''Soksokgot'', similar to a [[petticoat]], is shown under the woman's skirt. 18th century.
Image:18thcentury_maid.jpg|Full skirt and tight ''jeogori'' were considered fashionable. 18th century.
File:Hyewon-Ssanggeum.daemu.jpg|Dancing together with two swords
Image:Yangban.jpg|A rare painting of ''[[yangban]]'' women. ''Yangban'' ladies were sensitive to "fashion fads" which worried [[Seonbi]] scholars. 18th century.
Image:18thcentury_innerwear.jpg|''Soksokgot'', similar to a [[petticoat]], is shown under the woman's skirt. 18th century.
Image:Hyewon-Ssanggeum.daemu.jpg|Dancing together with two swords
</gallery>
 
At the end of the 19th century, as mentioned above, Heungseon Daewongun introduced ''[[magoja]]'', a Manchu-style jacket, which is often worn over ''jeogori'' to this day.
 
A clothes reformation movement aimed at lengthening ''{{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}'' experienced wide success in the early 20th century and has continued to influence the shaping of modern hanbok. Modern ''{{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}'' are longer, although still halfway between the waistline and the breasts. ''Heoritti'' are sometimes exposed for aesthetic reasons.
 
==== Men's everyday wear ====
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Beginning in the late 19th century, hanbok was largely replaced by new Western imports like the Western [[Suit (clothing)|suit]] and dress. Today, formal and casual wear are usually based on Western styles. However, hanbok is still worn for traditional occasions, and is reserved for celebrations like weddings, the Lunar New Year, annual ancestral rites, or the birth of a child.
 
===ForeignModern influences=usage==
Although hanbok is a traditional costume, it has been re-popularized in modern fashion.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Kim |first=Monica |title=The Story Behind Seoul's Latest Street Style Staple |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hanbok-street-style-seoul-korean-traditional-dress |website=Vogue}}</ref> Contemporary brands, such as [[the Modern Hanbok]] of the "Korean in Me"<ref>{{Cite web |title=The #1 Korean Hanbok Fashion Online Store |url=https://thekoreaninme.com/ |website=The Korean In Me}}</ref> and Kim MeHee,<ref name=":3">{{Cite web |title=KIM MeHee hanbok couture |url=http://www.kimmehee.com/ |website=KIM MeHee hanbok couture}}</ref> have incorporated traditional designs in their upscale modern clothes. Modern hanbok has been featured in international [[haute couture]]; on the catwalk, in 2015 when [[Karl Lagerfeld|Karl Lagerfield]] dressed Korean models for [[Chanel]], and during [[Paris Fashion Week]] in photography by [[Phil Oh]].<ref>{{Cite news |title=The Story Behind Seoul's Latest Street Style Staple |work=Vogue |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hanbok-street-style-seoul-korean-traditional-dress |access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref> It has also been worn by international celebrities, such as [[Britney Spears]] and [[Jessica Alba]], and athletes, such as tennis player [[Venus Williams]] and football player [[Hines Ward]].<ref>{{Cite news |title=8 American Celebrities Wearing Hanbok |work=SweetandtastyTV |url=http://www.sweetandtastytv.com/blog/2013/07/25/8-american-celebrities-wearing-hanbok |access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref>
The clothing of Korea's rulers and aristocrats after AD 7, was influenced by both foreign and [[Indigenous peoples|indigenous]] styles, including significant influences from various [[Chinese dynasties]], resulting in some styles of clothing, such as the {{transl|zh|[[Shenyi|simui]]}} from [[Song dynasty]],<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Kim|first=In-Suk|date=1977|title=심의고(深依考)|url=http://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO197720336527429.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume|volume=1|pages=101–117|issn=1229-6880}}</ref> ''[[gwanbok]]'' worn by male officials were generally adopted from and/or influenced by the court clothing system of the [[Tang dynasty|Tang]],<ref name=":22"/><ref name=":17">{{Cite journal|last=Kyu-Seong|first=Choi|date=2004|title=A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty|url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200430710432076.page|journal=The Research Journal of the Costume Culture|volume=12|issue=6|pages=1060–1069|issn=1226-0401}}</ref> [[Song dynasty|Song]],<ref name=":17" /> and [[Ming dynasty|Ming dynasties]],<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1059514121|title=Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia|date=2018|others=Kyunghee Pyun, Aida Yuen Wong|isbn=978-3-319-97199-5|location=Cham, Switzerland|pages=116|oclc=1059514121}}</ref> and Court clothing of women in the court and women of royalty were adapted from the clothing style of [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] and [[Ming dynasty|Ming]] dynasties,<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/156808055|title=The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history|date=2008|others=Jill Condra|isbn=978-0-313-33662-1|location=Westport, Connecticut|oclc=156808055}}</ref><ref>McCallion, 2008, p. 221 - 228</ref> the [[Terlig|''cheolik'']] from the Mongol clothing and bestowed from the Ming court,<ref>{{Cite journal|last1=Cho|first1=Woohyun|last2=Yi|first2=Jaeyoon|last3=Kim|first3=Jinyoung|date=2015|title=The dress of the Mongol Empire: Genealogy and diaspora of the Terlig|url=https://akjournals.com/doi/10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2|journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae|language=en|volume=68|issue=3|pages=22–29|doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2|issn=0001-6446}}</ref> and the ''[[magoja]]'' from Manchu clothing.
 
Hanbok is also popular among Asian-American celebrities, such as [[Lisa Ling]] and [[Miss Asia Pageant|Miss Asia]] 2014, [[Eriko Lee Katayama]].<ref name=":3" /> It has also made appearances on the red carpet, and was worn by [[Sandra Oh]] at the [[Screen Actors Guild Award|SAG Awards]], and by Sandra Oh's mother who made fashion history in 2018 for wearing a hanbok to the [[Emmy Award]]s.<ref>{{Cite news |title=Sandra Oh's mother makes Emmys history by wearing traditional Korean hanbok to awards |url=https://www.yahoo.com/news/sandra-ohs-mother-makes-history-wearing-traditional-hanbok-red-carpet-082913406.html |access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref>
 
=== South Korea ===
The South Korean government has supported the resurgence of interest in hanbok by sponsoring fashion designers.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Designers add a modern twist to hanbok style : Government is keen to show the world the versatility of Korea's traditional attire |url=http://mengnews.joins.com/view.aspx?aId=3042015 |access-date=2018-10-17 |website=Korea JoongAng Daily |language=ko}}</ref> Domestically, hanbok has become trendy in street fashion and music videos. It has been worn by the prominent [[K-pop]] artists like [[Blackpink]] and [[BTS]], notably in their music videos for "[[How You Like That]]" and [[Idol (BTS song)|"Idol."]]<ref>{{Cite web |title=11 times BTS rocked traditional Korean clothing |url=https://www.sbs.com.au/popasia/blog/2018/08/23/11-times-bts-rocked-traditional-korean-clothing |access-date=2018-10-17 |website=SBS PopAsia}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=26 June 2020 |title=Here's Everything You Need To Know About BLACKPINK's Korean Hanbok Outfits In "How You Like That" MV |url=https://www.koreaboo.com/news/everything-need-know-blackpink-traditional-korean-hanbok-outfits-in-howyoulikethat-mv/}}</ref> As the hanbok continues to modernize, opinions are divided on the redesigns.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2017-10-09 |title=Girls are wearing hanboks with skirts now, and Koreans are not sure how they feel about it |url=https://www.koreaboo.com/stories/girls-wearing-hanboks-skirts-now-koreans-arent-sure-feel/ |access-date=2018-10-17 |work=Koreaboo}}</ref>
 
In Seoul, a tourist's wearing of hanbok makes their visit to the Five Grand Palaces (Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung and Gyeonghuigung) free of charge.
 
=== North Korea ===
{{Transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} is also worn present-days [[North Korea]] where it is known as {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} ({{Korean|hangul=조선옷|hanja=朝鮮옷|rr=Joseon-ot|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}) being rooted from the clothing worn by the people in the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]] ({{Korean|hangul=조선|hanja=朝鮮|rr=Joseon|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}) and hence its name.<ref name=":24">{{Cite web |title=Hanbok in N. Korea |url=http://world.kbs.co.kr/special/northkorea/contents/news/closeup_view.htm?No=378367 |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=world.kbs.co.kr |language=en}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} thus hightlights the identity of the Korean ethnic and has been more actively promoted under the rule of [[Kim Jong-un|Kim Jong-Un]].<ref name=":24" />
 
The {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} is typically worn during special occasions, e.g. polical events, weddings, and when North Koreans celebrate the 60th, 70th, and 80th birthdays of their parents.<ref name=":24" /> White coloured hanbok is often used as the colour white has been the traditionally favoured by the Korean people as the symbolism of pure spirit.<ref name=":24" /> {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} patterns also have special meanings, which are given by the North Koreans.<ref name=":24" />
{{Multi image
| image1 = Two housewives celebrated the 69th founding anniversary of the DPRK.jpg
| image2 = At Kumsusan Palace of the Sun (13610012573).jpg
| caption2 = Women wearing uniform joseon-ot, North Korea
| image3 = Girls in Pyongyang.jpg
| caption3 = Little girls wearing chima-jeogori, North Korea, Pyeongyang
| total_width = 450
| caption1 = Women in joseon-ot, North Korea, 2017
| perrow =
| header = Joseon-ot in North Korea
}}
The {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} remains the clothing of women, including female university students who are required to wear it as part of their university school uniforms.<ref name=":24" /> After the mid-1990s due to extreme econoomic contractions, women can purchase their {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} in private markers and are allowed to choose their desired colours and designs.<ref name=":24" /> However, {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} are typically more expensive than ordinary clothing, and renting is available for people cannot afford to purchase one; some are available for purchase at 20$ USD while the {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} made in [[China]] with South Korean designs and fabrics are more expensive and can cost approximately 3000$ USD.<ref name=":24" /> The mid-2010s also saw the increased popularity of children dressing in {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} by their parents.<ref name=":24" /> Men occasionally wore {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}}.<ref name=":24" />
 
=== China ===
[[File:풍작의 춤-정신우.jpg|thumb|Illustration of {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} on a Yanbian magazine in 1975, China.]]
In [[China]], the {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} is referred as {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} ({{Lang-zh|c=朝鮮服}}; {{Korean|hangul=조선옷|hanja=朝鮮옷|rr=Joseon-ot|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}) and is recognized as being the traditional ethnic clothing of {{Transliteration|zh|[[Koreans in China|chaoxianzu]]}} ({{Lang-zh|s=朝鲜族|t=朝鮮族|p=cháoxiǎnzú|l=[[Joseon]] (Korean) ethnic group}}) in China. The {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} is an official term and is recognized as one of the official 55 [[Ethnic minorities in China|ethnic minority in China]];<ref name=":25">{{Cite thesis |title=Chaoxianzu’s Traditions of Dress: An Exploration of Identity Within Contemporary Fashion Contexts |url=https://openrepository.aut.ac.nz/handle/10292/13127 |publisher=Auckland University of Technology |date=2020 |degree=Thesis |language=en |first=Wenlian |last=Jin}}</ref> people from {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} ethnic shares the same ethnic identity as the Korean ethnic in both Northern and Southern Korea but are counted as Chinese citizens by nationality under the [[Constitution]] of China. Their traditions are not entirely the same due to their unique historical experiences, geographical location and mixed identities.<ref name=":25" /> The term {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} literally correspond to {{Transliteration|zh|Chosonjok}} ({{Korean|hangul=조선족|hanja=朝鮮族|rr=Chosŏnjok|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}), a non-official deragotory term in South Korea, to refer to {{Transliteration|ko|Hangukgye Junggugin}} ({{Literally|Chinese of Korean descent}}), which is the actual legal term in South Korea.<ref name=":26">{{Cite web |last=Ahn |first=Yeong-chun |title=[Column] The hanbok belongs to the Korean diaspora, too |url=https://english.hani.co.kr/arti/english_edition/english_editorials/1030269.html |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=english.hani.co.kr}}</ref> In the [[Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture]], where most {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} reside,<ref name=":25" /> the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} was mostly worn on special occasions in the past;<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/857463468 |title=Women entrepreneurs : inspiring stories from emerging economies and developing countries |date=2014 |publisher=Routledge |others=Mauro F. Guillén |isbn=978-1-136-32459-8 |location=New York |oclc=857463468}}</ref> however, by 2019, they had regained popularity and have become fashionable.<ref name=":25" />
 
The {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} originally preferred to wear white colours as it represented cleanliness, simplicity, and purity; however, since the 20th century, the colours started to become brigher and more vivid and diverse as woven fabrics, such as polyester and nylon sateen, started to be introduced.<ref name=":25" /> The “reform and opening up” of China also allowed for more exchanges with both Koreas, which lead to the both development and changes in the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} of China.<ref name=":25" /> Following the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} tradition, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} has an A-line in silhouette to give it the appearance of a [[mountain]] as per the traditiion, women are the host of the family, and thus, women holding the household need to be stable; the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} also covers the entire body.<ref name=":25" />
 
On June 7th 2008, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} were approved by the State Council of China to be included in the second layer of national intangible cultural heritage.<ref name=":25" /> And, in 2011, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} was official designated as being part of the [[intangible cultural heritage]] of China by the Chinese government; while the annoucement was welcomed by the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} ethnic in China as a proud indicator of their equal membership in a multi-ethnic and multicultuary country such as China, it received negative criticism in South Koreans who perceived it as a "scandalous appropriation of the distintive national culture of Koreans".<ref>{{Cite book |last=Kim |first=Jaeeun |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/951625687 |title=Contested embrace : transborder membership politics in twentieth-century Korea |date=2016 |isbn=978-0-8047-9961-4 |location=Stanford, California |oclc=951625687}}</ref>{{Rp|page=239}} In 2022, a girl from the {{Transliteration|zh|[[Koreans in China|chaoxianzu]]}} ethnic wore a {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} on the [[2022 Winter Olympics|2022 Beijing Winter Olympics]] opening ceremony leading to an uproar from South Koreans who accused China of [[cultural appropriation]].<ref name=":26" />
The cultural exchange was also bilateral and [[Goryeo]] hanbok had cultural influence on some [[Fashion in Yuan dynasty|clothing of Yuan dynasty]] worn by the upper class (i.e. the clothing worn by Mongol royal women's clothing<ref name=":102"/> and in the Yuan imperial court<ref name=":0" />).<ref>고려(高麗)의 원(元)에 대(對)한 공녀(貢女),유홍렬,震檀學報,1957</ref> Commoners were less influenced by these foreign fashion trends, and mainly wore a style of indigenous clothing distinct from that of the upper classes.<ref name="Daum Global">{{cite web|url=http://donation.enc.daum.net/wikidonation/ency.do?vol=008&code=005002003000000000 |script-title=ko:옷의 역사 |publisher=[[Daum Communications|Daum]] / [[Global World Encyclopedia]] |language=ko}}</ref>
 
==Social status==
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====Hwarot====
<!-- [[File:Hwal-Ot.jpg|thumb|right|Hwal-Ot, [[활옷]]]] -->
'''''[[Hwarot]]''''' or '''''Hwal-Ot''''' ([[Hangul]]: 활옷) was the full dress for a princess and the daughter of a king by a [[concubine]], formal dress for the upper class, and bridal wear for ordinary women during the [[Goryeo]] and [[Joseon]] dynasties.<ref name= "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=47529&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)"], "C News041", 2012/10/23</ref> Popular embroidered patterns on Hwal-Ot were [[lotus (genus)|lotuses]], [[Phoenix (mythology)|phoenixes]], butterflies, and the ten traditional symbols of longevity: the sun; mountains; water; clouds; rocks/stone; pine trees; the mushroom of immortality; turtles; white [[Crane (bird)|cranes]], and deer.<ref name="Official/Court Clothing">Life in Korea, [http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official "Official/Court Clothing"], "Life in Korea"</ref> Each pattern represented a different role within society, for example: a dragon represented an emperor a phoenix represented a queen; floral patterns represented a princess and a king's daughter by a concubine, and clouds and cranes represented high ranking court officials.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> All these patterns throughout Korean history had meanings of longevity, good luck, wealth and honor.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> Hwal-Ot also had blue, red, and yellow colored stripes in each [[sleeve]] - a woman usually wore a scarlet-colored skirt and yellow or green-colored [[Jeogori]], a traditional Korean jacket.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> Hwal-Ot was worn over the [[Jeogori]] and skirt.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> A woman also wore her hair in a bun, with an ornamental hairpin and a ceremonial [[coronet]].<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> A long ribbon was attached to the ornamental hairpin, the hairpin is known as '''Yongjam''' (용잠).<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> In more recent times, people wear Hwal-Ot on their wedding day, and so the Korean tradition survives in the present day.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" />
 
====Wonsam====
<!-- [[File:Wonsam.jpg|thumb|left|[[Wonsam]], 원삼]] -->
'''''[[Wonsam]]''''' (Hangul: 원삼) was a ceremonial overcoat for a married woman in the [[Joseon]] dynasty.<ref name= "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=46289&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)"], "C News041", 2012/11/12</ref> The [[Wonsam]] was also adopted from [[China]] and is believed to have been one of the costumes from the [[Tang dynasty]] which was bestowed in the Unified Three Kingdoms period.<ref name=":1" /> It was mostly worn by royalty, high-ranking court ladies, and noblewomen and the colors and patterns represented the various elements of the Korean class system.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> The empress wore yellow; the queen wore red; the crown princess wore a purple-red color; meanwhile a princess, a king's daughter by a [[concubine]], and a woman of a noble family or lower wore green.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> All the upper social ranks usually had two colored stripes in each sleeve: yellow-colored Wonsam usually had red and blue colored stripes, red-colored Wonsam had blue and yellow stripes, and green-colored Wonsam had red and yellow stripes.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> Lower-class women wore many accompanying colored stripes and ribbons, but all women usually completed their outfit with '''Onhye''' or '''Danghye''', traditional Korean shoes.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" />
 
====Dangui====
<!-- [[File:Dangui.jpg|thumb|right|[[Dangui]], 당의]] -->
'''''[[Dangui]]''''' or '''''Tangwi''''' (Hangul: 당의) were minor ceremonial robes for the queen, a princess, or wife of a high ranking government official while it was worn during major ceremonies among the noble class in the [[Joseon]] dynasty.<ref name="Official/Court Clothing" /> The materials used to make "Dang-Ui" varied depending on the season, so upper-class women wore thick Dang-Ui in winter while they wore thinner layers in summer.<ref name= "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=48695&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)"], "C News041", 2012/11/28</ref> Dang-Ui came in many colors, but yellow and/or green were most common. However the emperor wore purple Dang-Ui, and the queen wore red.<ref name= "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)" /> In the [[Joseon]] dynasty, ordinary women wore Dang-Ui as part of their wedding dress.<ref name= "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)" />
 
====Myeonbok and Jeokui====
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====Cheolique====
'''''[[Terlig|Cheolique]]''''' (Alt. Cheolick or Cheollik) (Hangul: 철릭) was a Korean adaptation of the [[Terlig|Mongol tunic]], imported in the late 1200s during the [[Goryeo dynasty]]. Cheolique, unlike other forms of Korean clothing, is an amalgamation of a blouse with a kilt into a single item of clothing. The flexibility of the clothing allowed easy horsemanship and archery. During the [[Joseon dynasty]], they continued to be worn by the king, and military officials for such activities.<ref name="Cheolique">Encyclopedia of Korean Culture and The Academy of Korean Studies, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=1646&docId=563301&categoryId=1646 "Cheolique"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> It was usually worn as a military uniform, but by the end of the Joseon dynasty, it had begun to be worn in more casual situations.<ref name="Cheolique" /> A unique characteristic allowed the detachment of the Cheolique's sleeves which could be used as a bandage if the wearer was injured in combat.<ref name="Cheolique" />
<!-- [[File:Blue Cheolique.jpg|thumb|left|Blue Cheolique for military officials in [[Joseon]] Dynasty]] -->
 
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===Accessories===
[[File:Hanbok accessories.jpg|thumb|{{transl|ko|Hanbok}} accessories]]
====Binyeo====
 
==== Binyeo ====
<!-- [[File:Binyeo.jpg|thumb|left|[[Binyeo]], 비녀]] -->
'''''[[Binyeo]]''''' or '''''Pinyeo''''' (Hangul: 비녀) was a traditional ornamental hairpin, and it had a different-shaped tip again depending on social status.<ref name="Binyeo">Doopedia, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=200000000&docId=1105813&categoryId=200000392 "Binyeo"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> As a result, it was possible to determine the social status of the person by looking at the binyeo. Women in the royal family had dragon or phoenix-shaped Binyeo while ordinary women had trees or [[Japanese apricot]] flowers.<ref name= "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(21)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=36151&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(21)"], "C News041", 2012/04/17</ref> And Binyeo was a proof of marriage. Therefore, to a woman, Binyeo was an expression of chastity and decency.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.mhj21.com/9863|title=≪문화저널21≫ 기혼여성들에게 꼭 필요했던 장신구 비녀|website=문화저널21|access-date=2019-03-26}}</ref>
 
====Daenggi====
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====Danghye====
'''''Danghye''''' or '''''Tanghye''''' (Hangul: 당혜) were shoes for married women in the [[Joseon]] dynasty.<ref name="Danghye">Encyclopedia of Korean Culture and The Academy of Korean Studies, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=1646&docId=534624&categoryId=1646 "Danghye"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> Danghye were decorated with trees bearing grapes, [[pomegranates]], [[chrysanthemums]], or [[peonies]]: these were symbols of longevity.<ref name= "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=29559&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)"], "C News041", 2012/11/27</ref>
 
=====''Kunghye''=====
Danghye for a woman in the royal family were known as '''''Kunghye''''' (Hangul: 궁혜), and they were usually patterned with flowers.<ref name= "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)" />
 
=====''Onhye''=====
Danghye for an ordinary woman were known as '''''Onhye''''' (Hangul: 온혜).<ref name= "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)" />
 
==Modern usage==
Although hanbok is a traditional costume, it has been re-popularized in modern fashion.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hanbok-street-style-seoul-korean-traditional-dress|title=The Story Behind Seoul's Latest Street Style Staple|first=Monica|last=Kim|website=Vogue}}</ref> Contemporary brands, such as [[the Modern Hanbok]] of the "Korean in Me"<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://thekoreaninme.com/|title=The #1 Korean Hanbok Fashion Online Store|website=The Korean In Me}}</ref> and Kim MeHee,<ref name=":3">{{Cite web|url=http://www.kimmehee.com/|title=KIM MeHee hanbok couture|website=KIM MeHee hanbok couture}}</ref> have incorporated traditional designs in their upscale modern clothes. Modern hanbok has been featured in international [[haute couture]]; on the catwalk, in 2015 when [[Karl Lagerfeld|Karl Lagerfield]] dressed Korean models for [[Chanel]], and during [[Paris Fashion Week]] in photography by [[Phil Oh]].<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hanbok-street-style-seoul-korean-traditional-dress|title=The Story Behind Seoul's Latest Street Style Staple|work=Vogue|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref> It has also been worn by international celebrities, such as [[Britney Spears]] and [[Jessica Alba]], and athletes, such as tennis player [[Venus Williams]] and football player [[Hines Ward]].<ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.sweetandtastytv.com/blog/2013/07/25/8-american-celebrities-wearing-hanbok|title=8 American Celebrities Wearing Hanbok|work=SweetandtastyTV|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref>
 
Hanbok is also popular among Asian-American celebrities, such as [[Lisa Ling]] and [[Miss Asia Pageant|Miss Asia]] 2014, [[Eriko Lee Katayama]].<ref name=":3"/> It has also made appearances on the red carpet, and was worn by [[Sandra Oh]] at the [[Screen Actors Guild Award|SAG Awards]], and by Sandra Oh's mother who made fashion history in 2018 for wearing a hanbok to the [[Emmy Award]]s.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.yahoo.com/news/sandra-ohs-mother-makes-history-wearing-traditional-hanbok-red-carpet-082913406.html|title=Sandra Oh's mother makes Emmys history by wearing traditional Korean hanbok to awards|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref>
 
The South Korean government has supported the resurgence of interest in hanbok by sponsoring fashion designers.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://mengnews.joins.com/view.aspx?aId=3042015|title=Designers add a modern twist to hanbok style : Government is keen to show the world the versatility of Korea's traditional attire|website=Korea JoongAng Daily|language=ko|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref> Domestically, hanbok has become trendy in street fashion and music videos. It has been worn by the prominent [[K-pop]] artists like [[Blackpink]] and [[BTS]], notably in their music videos for "[[How You Like That]]" and [[Idol (BTS song)|"Idol."]]<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.sbs.com.au/popasia/blog/2018/08/23/11-times-bts-rocked-traditional-korean-clothing|title=11 times BTS rocked traditional Korean clothing|website=SBS PopAsia|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.koreaboo.com/news/everything-need-know-blackpink-traditional-korean-hanbok-outfits-in-howyoulikethat-mv/|title=Here's Everything You Need To Know About BLACKPINK's Korean Hanbok Outfits In "How You Like That" MV|date=26 June 2020}}</ref> As the hanbok continues to modernize, opinions are divided on the redesigns.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.koreaboo.com/stories/girls-wearing-hanboks-skirts-now-koreans-arent-sure-feel/|title=Girls are wearing hanboks with skirts now, and Koreans are not sure how they feel about it|date=2017-10-09|work=Koreaboo|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref>
 
In Seoul, a tourist's wearing of hanbok makes their visit to the Five Grand Palaces (Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung and Gyeonghuigung) free of charge.
 
== See also ==
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*[[Việt phục]] - a Vietnamese equivalent.
*[[Wafuku]] - a Japanese equivalent.
 
== Gallery ==
 
== Notes ==
<references group="note" responsive="1"></references>
 
==Footnotes==
Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanbok"