In English we talk about frayed ends and loose ends. We talk about them as if they were broken, or we need to tie them up, or they ought not to be that way. But the truth is, that's the way that all ends are... and there's nothing we can do about it.
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It had been raining. Rain made the sky low and the earth seem fresh. I walked through a mist up to meet my friend at the nearest monastery. The uneven street up to the gate was slick with moisture and my friend stood in his deep red robes waiting for me in front of a tea house. We got cups which were filled by a grinning man with a dented kettle. As we sat chatting, the rain played a song that only it can sing on the roof and ground around us. The mountains were velvety green in the misty dampness and the monk reasoned
Lhasa wants you to remember it beautiful so that you will come back quickly. Another monk friend joined us and we moved to a bench under a tree to eat lunch. Rain drops splashed in my cup and reminded me of all the tears I couldn't cry. My first tea in the rain and my last tea with monks.
The nunnery had been recently painted and I breathed deep in the cool air and stopped often to admire the purple flowers like jewels scattered on the ground amidst yellow flowers like flames licking up from the rocks as I walked up the mountain towards it. I made a phone call and my friend came out wearing a towel over her closely shaved head. The city looked like a sleepy child waking up in the cool morning and I sat in a room occupied only by statues of idols as my friends came and went and held my hand and laughed with me and handed me small gifts. Leaving them to the busy work of cooking for the rest of the nuns was a little bit like walking away from a bustling and familiar home scene. My first time sharing a nun's tsampa bowl and my last entirely Tibetan conversation.
I and two Chinese students sat around a too small table in a too new Chinese tea shop trying to suck our too chunky tea up wide straws and laughing about the way that the chairs were too small and made us feel fat. The shop was really just a counter with a table and chairs available mostly for decoration as sitting at it nearly forced us out the door and onto the sidewalk outside for lack of room. I stared past my students out into the blue Lhasa sky onto the dirty, periodically, crowded Lhasa street. Suddenly, a small Chinese boy appeared in the door with a little baseball cape cockled on his head. He stared at me and with hand raised he moved as if drawn to our table and left his hand suspended in the air until I instinctively shook it. Then he grinned and disappeared. When we got back to the school my students asked me if I would give them each a hug. My first small child handshake, but my last Chinese milk tea.
Recovery from a night and a day of vomiting horrors was slow and time was exactly what I didn't have. I delayed a dinner with a quirky neighbor for a day and then we went out with a group, greeting my mostly empty stomach with a tray of chicken buried amidst kilos of spice. The rain poured down around the outdoor eating area where we spat chicken bones on the floor and decided to accompany my neighbor to his room for tea later. As the hour drew late and I emptied my tiny glass cup for the last time making it quite certain that I wouldn't sleep well later, my neighbor picked up his electronic dictionary up and handed it to me.
I want to tell you this he said. Yi luo ping an was the entry: have a good journey. My first dinner at an outdoor restaurant overlooking the Potala and my last interaction with an odd man transformed into a trusted friend.
I went to her room because I had been to her room nearly once a week for years. It was exactly the same as it always was and she perched on the nearly shredded stool exactly the same girl she always had been. We made sha momos that were exquisitely delicious in their simplicity and familiarity and words spilled from her slightly quivering lips. It was as if she felt compelled to tell me all of the story of her life thus far lived in order to impress upon me the weight of my entrance into it.
Your hair is different, and your eyes and skin, but my heart thinks you are the same to me, as my sister she confessed. Something caught in my throat and I could only hope that my eyes could speak everything that my mouth failed to in that moment. My first compliment of such tender depth and sincerity and my last sha momos.
Immediately upon meeting her on a busy street corner she grabbed my hand and led me around the slanted and bustling allies of Lhasa running errands in a last minute rush that demanded our tea be slow and untroubled. We arrived in a tea house and ordered a thermos as though there was nothing different or final about this day. The owner sat down on a bench next to us and suddenly the entire room wanted to know everything about me. When they learned that indeed my hours left in Lhasa were numbered the owner said
Don't leave with enough force that perhaps the words would generate reality from the very act of speaking them. They only managed to make my friend and I blink back tears which appeared quite suddenly to both of us. She rubbed my finger as we waited at the bus stop and watched my face slide away from hers as the bus jerked away. My first time seeing tears in her eyes and my last Tibetan tea.
I had begged for sleep. Instead I got dreams. Upon waking to my last morning on my mat which had been my bed for three years to a sky that has become like a confidant and friend to me the only thing that was sure was the clarity of the voice in my dreams which had commanded me to read in the Psalms. I sat up and opened my Book to the first section of Psalms I randomly came to. Psalm 65.
Praise is rightfully yours. My first easy breath in days and the last scripture I read underneath that sky.
I sat alone in an empty apartment and felt only slightly sick to my stomach from travel anxiety. A knock at the door. Then an entire class, which I had first thought troubled beyond reaching turned dear, filed into the apartment. We sat and stood around in silence, then one student took my hand.
Really we thank you teacher and we love you. My head bowed and silent hot tears filled my lap, filled the room, and the only sound was thirty two sets of damp eyes and heaving chests. My first time seeing all of the students of that class together that semester and my last.
Another knock on the same door and a different small group of students filed into my apartment empty of all except a growing pile of kadas. They wept with me, they sang to me, they laughed with me, they sat with me waiting for the car.
In Tibetan we say that tears hold all the words that our hearts can't speak said one. I nodded and tears made rivers down my face. One girl stood up,
thank you teacher she said as she slipped a ring off of her own finger and onto my trembling one,
she usually wears this one, the other girls affirmed. Into the room walked two Tibetan teachers, one who had been like a father to me this whole time bearing kadas and gifts that only made the tears hotter and deeper.
Think of seeing your mother and father said the teacher as he held my damp face and
please be happy. My first gift from one finger to another and my last time weeping on the shoulder of this father figure.
Outside students were milling about in teary groups and teachers stood solemnly next to each other and we waited for the car and wept quietly. When it came roaring around the corner, the tears came harder and mouths opened to speak and instead only moaned. My students rushed toward me, one who was particularly close to me who had remained relatively composed until this moment rushed throwing her arms around my waist and laying her head on my shoulder to sob convulsively and I became sure that dying couldn't feel worse. Handshakes from teachers I could see only through a waterfall of tears and hugs and kadas and tears and I was gasping for a breath that wasn't damp from inside the car. My first time holding broken students and my last time offering any kind of consolation whatsoever.
The car made a quick stop at the gate and the sweet old gate grandfather who had forced me to sip his home brewed barley beer at new years, a request I had submitted to only because he is my friend, ran out calling my name. He flung the car door open and I leaned forward tears lashing my lap and hands as he reached in to present me with a kada. My first gift from him and my last time to look deep into his discolored, aging eyes.
I sat in the car heading dizzingly quick towards the airport with three Tibetan teachers who had become like sisters to me. We held hands and laughed about memories and watched the Lhasa river float lazily by the window
. I believe we will meet again I believe it, I feel and I believe it was the chorus of our trip until my eyes became painful with dry redness and puffy from emptiness. At the airport we dragged one hundred pounds of luggage over to the check in and found out that I would be charged for half of it. Nothing could be done, no excuses were good enough, no amount of begging compelling enough. We walked over to the cashier counter who calculated the bill. As I threw bills onto the counter the cashier looked hard at the ticket.
Nevermind she said
this plane is big enough to handle the extra bag, you don't need to pay. My first free luggage and my last moments with dear friends.
The flight out was perfectly on time and boarding had never been less stressful. I leaned my throbbing head and heaving heart against the plane window and winced as it left the tarmac. The mountains just underneath the plane were painted in a thousand beautiful patterns and colors, green and brown and purple and orange and white and I gasped at the beauty of this place that seemed to be somehow more vibrant, more brilliant in this, my last vision, of it. My first time to see the mountains with such a clarity of their awesomeness and my last glimpses of a place that had wounded and taught me repeatedly for three years.
These are my ends. They are loose and frayed. There is no fixing them and no tying them up. That's the way all ends are.
Good-bye Lhasa, until another time... if hopes and tears add up to anything substantial at all.