Visual Anatomy and Physiology 2nd Edition Martini Solutions Manual

Visual Anatomy and Physiology 2nd

Edition Martini Solutions Manual
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Visual Anatomy and Physiology 2nd Edition Martini Solutions Manual

CHAPTER
Chemical Level of Organization
2

Introduction to the Chapter

The incredibly small scale of atoms and molecules makes them difficult for many students
to visualize. This is understandable since, in a sense, atomic and molecular events are unseen
in daily life. Yet, physiologists and clinicians see all of the body’s activities as the end result
of interactions between chemicals. All thoughts, movements, and memories rely on ions
interacting with protein molecules suspended in a boundless sea of fluid phospholipids. The
enzymatic breakdown of sugars and fats yields the energy that powers our bodies and enables
the addition of new molecules to the body during growth, development, and repair. Pharma-
ceutical researchers scrutinize the chemical properties of their drugs to ensure they are prop-
erly transported, processed, and recognized by our bodies once they are injected or ingested.
Numerous biotechnologies and genetic tests hold great potential to diagnose or treat disorders
passed down through changes in nucleotides in our DNA. Thinking like a doctor or a physi-
ologist requires such comfort with the chemical basis of life, it is almost deceiving to separate
out chemistry into its own distinct chapter. Students will find that chemistry reappears in
some way in every chapter to follow. Because of that fact, many instructors take this as a
chance to very briefly introduce some common terms and concepts, with much more
detailed examinations of specific molecules put off until those molecules are applied to
physiological processes in the following chapters. Real-world applications, diagramming
exercises, and the use of larger-scale models or role-playing activities will help students
gain comfort with this tiniest level of organization that is central to the work of all health
scientists.

Chapter Learning Outcomes

2.1 Define an atom, and describe the properties of its subatomic particles.
2.2 Describe an atom and how atomic structure affects the mass number and atomic weight
of the various chemical elements.
2.3 Explain the relationship between electrons and energy levels.
2.4 Compare the ways in which atoms combine to form molecules and compounds.
2.5 Describe the three states of matter and the importance of hydrogen bonds in
liquid water.
2.6 Define metabolism and distinguish between work, kinetic energy, and potential energy.
2.7 Use chemical notation to symbolize chemical reactions.
2.8 Distinguish among the major types of chemical reactions that are important for
studying physiology.

Copyright © 2015 Pearson Education, Inc. 9

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 2.9 Describe the crucial role of enzymes in metabolism.
2.10 Describe four important properties of water and their significance in the body.
2.11 Explain how the chemical properties of water affect the solubility of inorganic and
organic molecules.
2.12 Discuss the importance of pH and the role of buffers in body fluids.
2.13 Describe the common elements of organic compounds and how functional groups
modify the properties of organic compounds.
2.14 Discuss the structures and functions of carbohydrates.
2.15 Discuss the structures and functions of lipids.
2.16 Discuss the structures and diverse functions of eicosanoids, steroids, phospholipids,
and glycolipids.
2.17 Discuss protein structure and the essential functions of proteins within the body.
2.18 Explain how enzymes function within the body.
2.19 Discuss the structure and function of high-energy compounds.
2.20 Compare and contrast the structures and functions of DNA and RNA.

Teaching Strategies
1. Encouraging Student Talk
a. Show students a picture of someone doing a belly flop in a calm swimming pool
(numerous such open-access pictures can be found online). Ask students to think
about why this is not an ideal method for getting into a pool full of water. Instruct
students to work in pairs to create a labeled diagram of the water molecules on the
surface of the pool just before the belly flop. Tell students to label the names of
any chemical bonds or charges in their drawing. Select a few random pairs to
share/describe their diagrams, resisting the chance to immediately correct any inaccu-
racies in the diagrams. Numerous misconceptions (see Misconceptions section to
follow) might be present in the diagrams that you can address as the topics arise during
lectures on chemical annotation and molecular bonds. Have students return to this
exercise after instruction, looking to see whether water molecules are appropriately
drawn, covalent and hydrogen bonds are labeled, and partial charges on oxygen and
hydrogen atoms are indicated.
2. Lecture Ideas & Points to Emphasize
a. In support of the crucial roles that careful observation and inference play in science,
you can point out that Mendeleev, the author of the best-accepted periodic table in the
1860s, lacked a comprehensive structural model of the atom, commonplace today, but
still saw and ordered the periodicities.
b. Even though a single hydrogen bond possesses only about 1/100 of the bonding energy
of a covalent bond, the total energy of all the hydrogen bonds within a single molecule
or between molecules can be quite significant. H bonds maintain the 3-D shape of
large molecules and supramolecular ensembles such as proteins and nucleic acids.
It is the H bonds that are disrupted when pH drops or temperature rises during
denaturation reactions.
c. It is important to illustrate that H bonds occur between separate molecules (or distant
regions of a large molecule) whose atoms are joined by covalent bonds. A board

10 INSTRUCTOR’S MANUAL FOR VISUAL ANATOMY & PHYSIOLOGY, 2e Copyright © 2015 Pearson Education, Inc.
 drawing of several water molecules, with both the polar covalent bonds and the H
bonds clearly labeled, will emphasize this point.
d. The information in Module 2.7 is not necessarily obvious or intuitive for students.
However, chemical annotation will become an important part of the communication
skills students apply throughout A&P courses. Further, students will need to under-
stand chemical annotation for applied purposes in health science fields. The new
figure in Module 2.7 translated a text-only table regarding chemical annotation into
visual representations. This makes it much easier to look at the written annotations
and directly compare them to the appearance of the chemicals themselves.
e. It is hard to overemphasize the significance of enzymes. In the first case, it is the first
form of molecular recognition they will encounter in the course. The lock-and-key fit
between enzyme and substrate molecule is what confers specificity on the catalyzed
reaction. Later examples include hormone receptors, channels, carriers, pumps, 2nd
messengers, cell adhesion molecules, and neurotransmission. Enzymes make life
possible, exploiting a chemical trick to accelerate chemical reactions at mild
temperature. Living things would not survive in the chemist’s boiling cauldron!
f. When presenting the different classes of reactions, anticipate their roles in metabo-
lism (catabolic vs. anabolic). Also, link each with an important physiological
example such as dissociation/association applied to the chemistry of carbonic acid
dissociation/association. This connects to buffering reactions as well.
3. Making Learning Active
a. You might perform a “jigsaw” activity on organic molecules to use peer teaching,
rather than a traditional lecture, for this subject. A couple of days prior to class,
randomly assign each student either carbohydrates, lipids, proteins, or nucleic acids.
Instruct students to perform some research on the monomers, polymers, physiological
functions, and common examples/variations for their organic molecule. To extend the
content, you could also ask students to identify and describe a disease directly related
to their type of molecule. On the class day, students would check in briefly with other
students who had their same type of molecule and then divide into heterogeneous
groups to sit with students assigned different types of molecules. Even in large class-
rooms, these logistics are relatively easy to arrange. Sheets of paper taped to the walls
can tell students where to congregate to start class, and then heterogeneous groups can
be formed by counting off students in the homogeneous groups. In the heterogeneous
“jigsaw” groups, students share the information they researched and take notes on the
molecules presented by their peers. The instructor can then administer some brief
discussion/quiz questions to enforce student accountability for learning the material
and address any misconceptions that arose.
4. Analogies
a. Anthropomorphize molecules by describing them as both “greedy” and “lazy.” They
want their outer energy level complete and will look around for someone else’s excess
electrons. However, they are lazy; they won’t take on more than half the number of
electrons required to fill the level. In those cases, they would just as soon give up the
electrons in the outer energy level but will be left with one less energy level. A few
molecules are lucky enough to come equipped with completed outer energy levels,
and so can be standoffish. The noble gases do not interact with anyone!
Likewise, if atoms can’t agree on who is going to give up an electron to make an ionic
bond, they may form even stronger covalent bonds by simply sharing the electron in
their outer shells. Some atoms express electronegativity when in a compound. This
means that bonding electrons spend more time in their neighborhood, conferring a par-

Copyright © 2015 Pearson Education, Inc. CHAPTER 2: Chemical Level of Organization 11

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medicine. Returned home very ill, and quite sick and tired with the
place, and disgusted with the behaviour of the people. Sent Cohen
to Sídí Ben Alí, to say that I must go away, else my health would
suffer. The worst of these people is, that if one sends them upon a
business that requires only a few minutes, they take as many hours
about it: besides, the system of giving presents from the Sultán
downwards has a bad effect. But as the people are ordered to wait, I
cannot help myself. Tired of presents: they cost too dear. Went to
bed without dinner or tea.
Saturday, Feb. 13.—Therm. at each hour from 7 A.M. to P.M., both
inclusive, stood as follows:—56°. 58°. 67°. 85°. 86°. 91°. 91°. 96°.
75°. 68°. 65°. Lots of work at the palace and at Jelábís. Began to
prepare stocks. Saw Sídí Ben Alí, and obtained permission to make
arrangements for my departure. I am happy to hear that I am to get
rid of my soldiers and to take others. Cohen went back with the
money to Adáj; but he compelled him to keep it. Passed some time
with Ben Alí. The old boy has fallen in love with my watch. He says
he will have it, if he sells himself for it: he offered two negroes. I have
promised to give it him, if he will obtain for me one of the Sultánah’s
dresses. He has acceded to my terms. As I shall be sure to lose my
watch, I may as well get a dress[62] for it. Abu was sent for twice to-
day: there are some symptoms of a wish to keep him here, of which
he is sadly afraid. Prescribed for Ben Zoar (the pearl): he is a curious
specimen of a nondescript animal, and more like a woman than a
man.
Sunday, Feb. 14.—Therm. 67°. The variation to-day not so great.
Went and took leave of Adáj: found him in a great rage; he had been
beating his women. Returned home and saw a few patients.
Received a visit from the minister; read prayers, and then went out
on the terrace of the house, to take a view of the country. The
mountain range presented a very beautiful boundary to the prospect.
Dined early, that I might go to Sídí Ben Alí in the evening. Every
thing is now arranged: I intend sending a part of the baggage direct
to Mogador to-morrow, and to start on Wednesday. Inshá-llah.
Monday, Feb. 15.—Therm. 47°; rose to 99° at 1 P.M., then fell to
60° at 6 P.M. Had a great squabble, and almost a fight, in my room:
refused to see any one to-day. Began paying and arranging; found it
a difficult task to get away. Was visited by a pretty Jewess, she was
brought to be examined for some complaint in the back; it was
evidently the consequence of a miscarriage, but the Moorish and
Jewish women will have it that it arises from carrying, what they say
happens frequently, a dead child in the womb. The poor Jewish
patient was willing to undergo a rigid examination, but I dared not;
there were many conjectures about the reason for her coming. I find
that I have offended the Shereéff, and am glad of it. Wrote to Mr.
Willshire, and am now only waiting for the mules, which arrived from
Teródánt this day; and as soon as they have sufficiently rested I shall
start: every thing goes well. A severe thunder-storm was seen in the
direction of Mount Atlas, but it did not reach here.
Tuesday, Feb. 16.—Therm. 56°. Up early, and sent off the
baggage; although I fear I shall not get away to-morrow: bought two
mules, with saddles and bridles, for about five dollars, but without
stirrups. Had Abd el Kerim brought to trial; both he and the Káïd
were very much frightened. Received back my bottles and
handkerchiefs from the Sultán: went to the palace. Find it does not
do to have one’s servant a man of business, as Cohen is; he is too
much occupied in his own affairs to attend to mine. Had a good deal
of fun with Ben Ali and the ladies; making lots of friends: I am to see
him again this evening. Received another present from the Sultán,
and have been requested to pass the palace in my way out of
Marocco. I find the money going very fast, and have been sadly
disappointed with my spurs,[63] bit, and buckles. I expect a little
disturbance to-morrow: turned sadler, to the great amusement of the
soldiers. The ladies of the harem expressed their thanks for my
amusing them with an acchordion. Ben Alí and myself have made a
bet against my return. Saw old Hijází basking in the sun, had a long
talk with him; he sent for me in the evening to see his wife, but I
could not go. I am now to have only five soldiers, according to my
own request, and shall get on much better. It is now six o’clock, and
the mules are not yet ready: they are now killing the fowls which I am
to dine on in half an hour; but as they did not make their appearance,
I was obliged to be contented with some bad bread and butter. Went
to the minister again with physic, and gave him a case of Seidlitz
powders. Every thing is now prepared, and I am to be at the palace
to-morrow.
Wednesday, Feb. 17.—Therm. 60°. I was off to the Sultán’s, and
saw him start on horseback. I was ordered to go to the Máníyah,
where I had my audience of leave: this is by far the most beautiful
spot here. I had a row with the Sheïkh. Sent off my last present of
dates and brandy—a token of sweetness and of my parting in the
garden. I found a great difficulty in getting away: at last, I left at one
P.M. the gates of Marocco, with five fresh soldiers, and attended by
ten others. For the first two hours the route was over a plain, in a
S.E. direction, and afterwards more east. After crossing the river
Tensift, the Wád Zitt, and the Wád Aghmát, we came to a douar,
where we slept, having received a good monah. The situation was
splendid.
Thursday, Feb. 18.—Therm. 40°. Started for the house of the Káïd
Ibráhím, who came to meet us with forty horse and his standard. He
received me with all the honours of a salute; during which, one man
was thrown from his horse. We remained there three hours, and then
commenced ascending Mount Atlas. The first place we arrived at
was Trasermoot,[64] where I learned that a tax had been levied for
me of 300 fowls and ten sheep. I went up to see the ruins: they
occupy a circle of three miles, with walls, gates, baths, and arches:
the last, however, have no key-stone. There are five walls, and the
whole place exhibits signs of having been a strong position—in fact,
a Gibraltar in miniature. I went in the evening to dine with the Jews—
here called the sons of Yehúdi: they are a most extraordinary people.
I never met with such hospitality, or such freedom of manner in any
Jews. They had dancing and music, and the ladies mixed in society
without the least restraint. I bought here several things. A great
squabble took place, when the Sheïkh Berbo played the part of a
scoundrel. These are the Jews who have each a berber-master. I
have almost a mind to go back to Marocco to complain: the affair
will, however, be not without its use, as it will furnish a good excuse
for not stopping on the road. The elevation of the place is ......... feet.
[65]
I have determined to make the best of my way to Mogador, after
seeing Waríkah.
Friday, Feb. 19.—The therm. 47°, although the place is much
nearer the snow and is at a considerable elevation. I am in great
doubts about the city: it is built of unhewn stone, and the arches are
very rudely formed. I could learn nothing in the way of tradition. The
Jews here puzzle me sadly: they have an air of freedom and
defiance. I was rather the worse for their fare last night. On my telling
them the tradition I had heard respecting them, they said, “It is true,
and we have it so.” They have no certain knowledge of the time
when they came here, but they think that the lost brethren are to be
found probably at Tafilelt; where, as at Elion, they dug twelve wells,
and planted seventy-two palm-trees. The Rabbi here sung a sort of
Psalm, which he had written to compliment me, and they all joined in
the last sentence—“Blessed is he that cometh in the name of the
Lord.” I went to the synagogue, and returned to my tent to prepare
for starting. What a changeable being is man! I got up, and went to
the Sheïkh of the Berbers to make a complaint, and I have now to
write to Abd-Salám to say that I am perfectly satisfied. I wish I could
always get the pure pronunciation and etymology of the names of
towns and other places. Thus, for example, the Misfywah, as it is
called in the maps, is Oom Sievra (mother of Sievra),[66] the name of
the first tribe who settled here. Again, Trasermoot is in reality tras
(head), and ermoot (valley). At noon we started, accompanied by the
whole population. We passed through a beautiful olive-grove. In
descending a steep dip, I observed some people, and a pile of
something, which turned out to be my dinner. It had been cooked on
the spot: no four persons could have carried it: I could not eat a
mouthful; but the soldiers played their parts in high style, and to their
heart’s content. Our road then became most beautiful, and after
crossing a river made a tremendous ascent. We were now joined by
another party. I had chosen this road, rather than return to Káïd Abd-
Salám, who had sent to say he would give me an escort of sixty
horse: but I fell from the frying-pan into the fire. We arrived at a large
millah, where persons came out with wine and milk. I had to touch
each, and put a drop on my horse’s mane: I was too ill to drink any
myself, while the women saluted me with a terrible screaming. We
then proceeded to a second river, where we were met by a Sheïkh,
with two Shilḥahs[67] on foot, who disappeared in the twinkling of an
eye in a ravine; and on descending, I found forty of them with their
guns all levelled at, and waiting for, me; while some twenty more
were on the large stones on the sides of the ravine, together with ten
on horseback, headed by the Sheïkh, who was beautifully mounted.
As soon as I came on the level he went forward some little distance;
then wheeling suddenly his horse, he came at the top of its speed
towards me. Knowing it would be best to keep myself as I was,
moving on, he placed his gun on my hat, stopping his horse at the
same moment. Such a halt I had never seen: this made my own
horse nearly mad. The whole then commenced firing, and so close
to me, that I got the powder in my face, and the report almost
cracked my ears. We then turned from the road to see a fine cave,
which was said to pass through the mountain called Gulgál. At this
point we had a view of Marocco. Skirting the mountain, which
overlooked a river, and a country with enclosures like an English
farm, we got into the district of Waríkah, where we had more firing.
Arriving at the house of the Káïd, I tried to walk, but found myself too
much exhausted. I received a visit from some Jews, who stated that
they have here the tombs of two rabbis who escaped from the
second destruction of Jerusalem; that their nation has resided here
ever since that event. We had some talk about some books
connected with this tradition, but they will not shew them, nor can
they go with me to-morrow, as it is their Sabbath, to the burial-
ground. They are generally very ignorant, although they can
manufacture, in a rude way, silver rings and bracelets.[68] Over the
mountain opposite there is a valley equal to the plain of Marocco,
where dwell, say the Jews here, those who escaped from
Nebuchadnezzar, from whose time they have preserved their
national records. There is, however, too much snow at present to
enable us to reach the place whose name is Kibla. In Waríkah there
are sixty heads of families, and some of the douars[69] are more
numerous. At Trasermoot every Jew has his master; but here they
have only one. On the mountain there are two; in other places there
are three; and so on. The annual tax is a ducat for the head of each
family; but they have to entertain and provide for all who come in the
Sultán’s name: they are the most intelligent I have met with.
Saturday, Feb. 20.—Therm. 50°. Our road is more beautiful as we
proceed. We passed more than twelve millahs, at which we had milk,
&c. We halted half an hour at a fine stream, where I got some
specimens,[70] and then came to Gurgal, a fine-looking place, where
there are many gardens, plenty of water, and a curious tower. We
arrived here at two P.M. The Káïd came out to meet us with twenty
horse: we had to remain here, although distant only twelve miles
from Waríkah. Our course had been S.W. and S.S.W.,[71] and
Marocco now bears N.W.[72] We saw many traces of the wild boar.
The Shulúh came out with their dogs, and started some hares and
flushed some partridges, but caught nothing. We walked down to the
river, which runs at the foot of the hill on which this place stands: I
collected a few specimens, and found many boulders of granite,
generally a speckled stone: the water was slightly ferrugineous. The
Jews here can give no information: they have not resided here more
than eleven years. We are to go to-morrow to Almishmish.
Sunday, Feb. 21.—Therm. 47°. The Sheïkh’s brother was brought
to me: he had been shot by somebody while he was in the mosque:
the ball had entered the left breast, passed through the ribs, and
came out at the shoulder: it was a bad case. We could not get off till
half-past nine A.M. We crossed the river, and after losing our way,
and passing more than thirty villages, the people wanted to stop, but
I insisted on proceeding. Our road was very beautiful, but trying, as
we continued to ascend. Some of the ravines surpass any thing I
have ever seen. We passed several tanks, built along the route, for
the convenience of travellers: the water was fine: I picked up many
curious specimens. At three P.M. we crossed the river Nefísah, a
noble stream; above which stands the town of El-Arján, where we
saw the women’s heads dressed fantastically with flowers, and some
fakirs adorned with curious ornaments. We did not reach
Almishmish[73] till just before dark. The Sheïkh Sídí Mohamed Ben
Aḥmed is a great Káïd, who sent us lots of presents. This, which I
hoped would be an easy day, turned out the hardest of any we had
travelled. My horse is so knocked up, that I find we must remain here
the whole of to-morrow.
Monday, Feb. 22.—Therm. 50°. There was a little rain during the
night. I have been so bitten by fleas, that I look like a person with the
small-pox. Our journey yesterday was twenty miles, W. by S. and
W.S.W.; we went a part of the way up the dry bed of a river. I found
here some varieties of mixed stones, and a spring nearly equal to
that at Vaucluse: there were numerous mills scattered through the
country, which was very beautiful. We went to breakfast with the
Káïd in his garden; it was done in great style. Received lots of
presents, and had many patients, especially some old women;
amongst the rest, there was brought to me a man who had been
attacked when employed in the fields, and had both of his arms
broken and half of his nose cut off: I replaced the piece of the latter
and set the arms, for which I had to manufacture splints. These are a
strange people; when I had finished, the fellow did not even say
‘thank you.’ Many of the ladies here are ill, but I have no remedy for
them. The chief of the Jews sent for me, to shew his hospitality; but I
have no appetite, and they are miserable unless one eats and drinks
to repletion. I must, however, pay him and his household a visit,
although their filth is dreadful; and I am covered with vermin that
have emigrated from my patients. Long—very long, will it be before I
forget this visit. The Káïd’s brother, and one Hají Hámed,[74] are
great drunkards; the man’s wife is half naked, but loaded with
ornaments. I was struck equally with the profusion of the viands
devoured and the quantity of brandy gulped down: the room was
covered with filth and kelp, in which there is a great trade carried on
here. It was impossible, however, not to be pleased with their
hospitality and good-humour, despite the lice, which was an honour I
could well dispense with. Returned home about eleven, P.M.; it was
very cold.
Tuesday, Feb. 23.—Therm. 50°. It turned very cold. I remarked on
the road the strange manner of keeping their corn in large baskets,
plastered over, and set on the roofs of the house, where they present
a very odd appearance. Received presents again before starting,
which did not take place till nine, A.M. We met with three old women,
who could have played the witches in Macbeth admirably: our road
was beautiful, but my horse very unmanageable. Our course was W.
by S. for two hours, and then W.N.W. After skirting the mountain, we
halted at one, P.M., in a fine brush-wood, where there was a fine
cover for a quantity of game; we then started again, our course being
W. by S., and made about twenty-six miles, and rested for the night
at Káïd Sídí Ben Mohammed’s Mikád; the place is called Seifel Mál,
on which he has laid out much money. No sooner were we in the
house than I had a host of patients. The Káïd himself, a man of
seventy years old, wants to take some medicines, for the purpose of
knowing what kind of stuff it is, and how he shall feel after it, having
heard all the people talk of my physic: he shewed me his harem,
consisting of ten or twelve ladies. Our room, which is very ruinous, is
fifty feet long, and only six wide. I confess I was pleased with the
candour of mine host, who said, when taking away his carpet, that it
was full of fleas, and he supposed I should prefer my own fleas to
his. I wish, with all my heart, he had taken his mats also; we never
had so bad a night—almost devoured by vermin. We are now
promised to be at Mogador to-morrow evening.
Wednesday, Feb. 24.—Therm. 56°. Much rain during the night,
but we have fortunately had fine weather during the day. In our ride
yesterday we passed many excavations in the side of the ravine
which forms the bed of the river; in these the shepherds and their
cattle herd together. The people here are said to be very Háramís.
[75] Our course was W.N.W. for two hours; then W. by S. for two;
then W.N.W. to N.W.: we passed several douars. The people here
have evidently never seen a Christian. The Káïd, his wife, and whole
family, came to see me last night; and this morning she has sent to
ask me to mount my horse before her: a pretty woman, too, has
brought me a dagger.[76] The country is flat, but little cultivated: we
here met with the Klágh again. At one, P.M., we came to a large and
fine head of water, called Ras el ’Ain, where we halted to take some
refreshment; we then passed three large douars. At Auled es Sibá
my horse threw me; he was quite done up, and I had to walk for
more than two hours: at last, after a day of thirteen hours, we came
to some habitations, and put up at the house of Hájí Abú. During the
day we passed through a district with a river called Kihira; there were
large herds of cattle, particularly camels, which are kept here for
breeding: the ground was covered with flowering-shrubs, amongst
which I discovered a great quantity of old man, thyme, wild mint, the
marygold, &c. I cannot say I much liked the looks of my host, nor,
indeed, of the place, into which the soldiers were not permitted to
enter. Allah hátebek, habábek, was pronounced very frequently, as
there was nothing to eat; a sheep was killed for the soldiers, but
before it was ready we had all fallen asleep. In the morning I had to
doctor all the women; they had never seen a Christian, but, by some
means, the chieftain’s lady had procured the button belonging to a
naval uniform, which she considered her principal ornament.
Thursday, Feb. 25.—Therm. 57°. Off at seven, P.M.; much rain had
fallen during the night: we were compelled by the country hills to vary
the direction of our course to W. by N.; we passed by many villages,
and many ruins. At noon we entered a large wood of the argan,[77]
from which an oil is extracted; it is a low and bushy, but fine tree;
there was also a good deal of carraway, &c. Through a country not
so well cultivated, we entered Háhá, through which we continued our
journey till four P.M., when we fell in with the great road leading from
Marocco. We then entered an immense wood, which took us two
hours to traverse, and came out upon the most extraordinary sand-
hills I ever saw; from their tops Mogadór was visible, but as night
was coming on we dispatched a soldier at eight P.M. When we
arrived at the city, we found that Mr. Willshire was with the governor.
The former took me to his house, where I made myself comfortable
with a glass of porter: I remained there till midnight, and then threw
myself on his bed.
Friday, Feb. 26.—Therm. 58°. Heavy rains. Had not much sleep:
the porter too strong for me. Occupied the whole day in unpacking
and removing to my own house: found some difficulty with the
soldiers. Saw the agent of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún, and in the
afternoon the brother of the Sheïkh; they fear the Sultán will stop me,
and that I shall have to go back; but I shall make the acquaintance of
the Sheïkh, and though I am prepared to go back, if necessary, still, I
shall endeavour to get away, and go down to Wád Nún, and take my
chance. Rained the whole day: returned home, and went early to
rest.
Saturday, Feb. 27.—Therm. 56°. Heavy rain, with a high sea, and
much swell. As this is an idle day, I went to look at the horse, and in
the afternoon walked round and outside the town, accompanied by
Mr. Willshire; it is a finer one than any I have yet seen in Marocco:
there is an air of comfort and business about it quite uncommon; it
has a good market. Met the people coming in from hunting the live
Dil.
Sunday, Feb. 28.—Therm. 50°. Feels cold; wind from the N. Read
prayers, and then paid a visit to the governor, who was very civil: I
fear, however, that matters do not go on quite so smooth as I could
wish. Prepared medicines for the people on the road. Retired to rest
early, not very well.
Monday, Feb. 29.—Therm. 60°. at eight; 80°. at nine; 102°. at ten;
100°. at eleven; 106°. at twelve; and at one rose to 116°., the hottest
weather I have felt as yet in Barbary. Saw Ombark[78] of Nún, the
brother of Sheïkh Beïrúk: matters are going on well. I had a look at
the Kobbah of Sídí Mogodúl, which the Christians have converted
into Mogadór: the Moors call it Suweïrah (picture); it is, certainly, the
handsomest city in the empire. Went to the auction-mart: the night
cold.
Tuesday, March 1.—Therm. 60°., but rose to 116°. at one P.M.; the
weather beautiful. Walked over the town; saw several patients, but
not being very well, retired early to rest.
Wednesday, Mar. 2.—Therm. 62°. Weather heavy, with damp-
heat. Visited the káïd of Shavviyah, his brother, and father; the first
was afflicted with a kind of scabies, the second with the a cold and
the third with old age, but with an extraordinary conformation, which
made him look like an hermaphrodite. Walked round the
fortifications, which are good, and have several batteries mounted: it
is not only the strongest, but the best kept town in the empire.
Thursday, Mar. 3.—Therm. 60°. Up early, and went on board the
Mauritania: got nearly swamped through the breakers, and a
considerable swell from the Atlantic. The boats of the ships were all
in readiness, expecting every moment that we should require their
assistance. There is a small island, on which is the state-prison,
together with a small mosque, and a few houses: from this place the
town presents a fine view. To-day is a great feast with the Jews, and
is the first on which they make their passover cakes: called at many
of their houses. The Jewish population here, Mr. Willshire thinks, is
nearly equal to that of Marocco; they are certainly better housed, and
in better circumstances. Saw some beautiful women: many of the
men are dressed in European cloths, and even speak English. As I
got wet through in coming here, and was suffering from sea-
sickness, I did not leave home the whole evening. Massers, whose
name has been converted into Moses, though his people call him
Oman, brought me the prices of all the things in the market; every
article is now scarce and dear, owing to the proximity of the army to
the city. Meat, whether beef or mutton, is two-pence per pound;
bread, twenty loaves for a peseta, the usual number is thirty; Eggs,
three dozen for a peseta, at other times there are eight dozen for the
same sum; wheat and barley, four pesetas per cwt., which is just
double the usual price. The people have been crying out for rain, and
they have now got it with a vengeance. I expect my courier will reach
Wád Nún to-day, and to have an answer by to-morrow week.
Friday, Mar. 4.—Therm. 65°. Fine. Had many visits, and lots of
patients. Felt rather poorly.
Saturday, Mar. 5.—Therm. 60°. Got up late: went to the Jews’
town, and saw my patients. Rode out with Mr. Willshire; hurt myself,
and had to lie by.
Sunday, Mar. 6.—Therm. 57°. Weather very boisterous. Abou ill;
the cold and wet disagree with him. Read prayers: Saturday is kept
here as the Sabbath, hence our Sunday is their busiest day.
Monday, Mar. 7.—Therm. 60°. Still cold, and very wet: heavy sea,
and no boats able to come ashore. Kept the house the greater part
of the day.
Tuesday, Mar. 8.—Therm. 57°. Very wet, the rain comes down in
torrents. Received letters from Tangier: visited my patients; wrote to
England. I am told that I may expect an answer from Wád Nún at the
end of the week.
Wednesday, Mar. 9.—Therm, 60°. The weather brightening up:
the people all busy. Ransacked shops, but found very little. Feel not
very well: began with my vocabulary.
Thursday, Mar. 10.—Therm. 65°. Very fine. Paid a visit to Sídí Ben
Idris. I learnt from him some particulars respecting the Khunthas. He
tells me it is Herami for their native doctors to examine these people;
that when this is necessary, as in the case of (an expected) death, it
must be done by means of a glass, that they who have the parts of
the male prominent, are set down as men who are destined to have
a double portion of prosperity; while those in which the female organ
is more developed, are, like the other sex, less fortunate. They are
called Khunthá and Khanáth; the most perfect are found at Fez.
Received my answer from the Sheïkh of Wád Nún; it is perfectly
satisfactory, he will protect me beyond Tumbuktú, if necessary; it
only remains for me to know the terms. Made my round of patients.
Friday, Mar. 11.—Therm. 65°. Weather beautiful. Went to the káïd
of Shedmah, whom I found better: have had many applications. Mr.
Willshire went to Ben Idris, who will offer no opposition; all therefore
goes on well. Got out the tent preparatory to departure. The brother
of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún is to accompany me as far as that place. I
find some difficulty about money matters, and must therefore send to
London. Cohen is not doing so well; he finds I can dispense with his
services, and I shall be glad to get rid of him entirely.
Saturday, March 12.—Therm. 66°. Walked with Mr. Willshire to
see Reis Múden’s wife, and other patients. The ladies opposite are
very merry: made arrangements for the letter to the Sultán.
Sunday, March 13.—Therm. 60°. Weather very boisterous. Read
the prayers; my patients are improving: had a visit from Hájí Omar,
who lately had some hot pepper rubbed in his mouth for telling a lie:
the punishment ought to be repeated, as he has made up a fine
story about me. I begin to feel an anxiety to get off: but any hurry on
my part would mar all my prospects. Took the tent to pieces, and
have several Jews at work; for as the holidays of these people and
the Moors are at hand, I must get every thing done before their
commencement.
Monday, March 14.—Therm. 66°. Weather hot and muggy. Went
to dine in the Jews’ town: such a dinner! I heard a long account of
the cabbalists, the talkers with God, and the angels. Returned home,
and arranged to start this day week for Teródánt, to quiet the talk
about us. I do not feel quite contented with Cohen: his son has the
bocca larga. During the afternoon we were visited by the hot wind: it
was very oppressive: began my letter-writing, and hope soon to get
off.
Tuesday, March 15.—Therm. 66°. Some rain fell during the night.
Received the names of Hámed Libbú, king of Tumbuktú; Fehedier,
king of Hausah; Woled Mansa Ensilú, king of Bambarrah; all of them
are well known to Abú. Preparing to start.
Wednesday, March 16.—Therm. 70°. Fine, but with signs of rain
in the distance. Went to the governor to say that I intended leaving
next week: sent off letters to the Sultán. Was hard at work with my
patients, all of whom are doing well.
Thursday, March 17.—Therm. 66°. The weather is brightening up;
busy in preparing; wrote letters to send by the Milford; heard the
history of the man who found the camels in the sand, and made his
fortune by it. This happened at two days’ journey from Wád Nún:
employed in preparations for starting.
Friday, March 18.—Therm. 66. Wind S.; got very warm towards
mid-day; had my marquee altered to a tent, at an expense of ten
dollars; determined to leave my horse, and made preparations for
mule-travelling. The most extraordinary reports are in circulation
about me; first, that I am going all over the country to see where it
can be best attacked, and conquered; next, that I have turned
merchant, and am going to Súdán to buy up the gold; and queries
are asked as to the quantity of salt I shall have to carry for that
purpose. Of this last article, the price is extravagantly high. A human
being is given for as much as two feet can cover, and the whole of a
woman’s jewels have been asked for as much as she could cover
with her body. Had three of the famed serpent-stones brought me to
purchase: they fetch very high prices, as they are a remedy for the
bite of the reptile, and are used as a most costly medicine. I made
several offers; the men had refused twenty-two ducats for the three;
a large sum for a Moor to give, and an Arab to refuse. They are
generally brought from Sùdàn: these, however, were taken from the
M’hor, which is a kind of antelope, and are called selsí in the
Mandingo language: they are used as an antidote in cases of poison,
and are applied also to pains and bruises: I bought the three for eight
dollars. The moon was visible and clear; a sign of fine weather. This
evening the Sultan is to receive my application: it is therefore a
moment of great anxiety.
Saturday, March 19.—Therm. 67. Weather beautiful: the Milford
about to sail. At half-past one the Therm. in the sun was 114°. Did
not rise at all to-day: rather the worse for the copper[79] of yesterday.
Sunday, March 20.—Therm. 65°. Read the prayers. This is the
great day of business here; there are symptoms of rebellion in the
north; the Sultan is to move to-day; a large arrival from Wád Nún. I
hope to buy some pieces of gold to-morrow: several were brought to-
day, but none were very good. The mithkal or mazar is equal in value
to two dollars and a-half; a dollar, by weight, contains six mithkals,
one sora of gold. The ordinary lot in which it is sold is equal to fifteen
dollars and a quarter in weight, and in value 225 dollars. The rate of
purchase is at thirty-five to forty ounces the ducat. It is brought
mostly in the shape of ornaments.
Monday, March 21.—Therm. 66°. I took the best observations I
could without a barometer, which is not to be found here; and
considering too that the day was very unfavourable. Arranged for my
mules: got every thing ready: am very anxious to hear from Marocco.
A vessel has arrived from Gibraltar.
Tuesday, March 22.—Therm. 66°. Went to the governor, and took
leave; saw four men, who lived only six days’ journey from
Tumbuktú. The tent is but barely dry. I had no time to write to the
Astronomical Society; I kept the paper; took leave of my patients;
glad to get off.
 Wednesday, March 23.—Therm. 66°. Up early; commenced
arrangements for loading the mules; did not get off, however, till ten
P.M., and was then detained a half hour at the gate. Mr. Willshire and
other friends accompanied me for the first two hours and half. The
road was over sand-hills, covered with a sort of vegetation. We
halted at one P.M., took a lunch, and then my friends left me. The
country now became more beautiful, and we entered a fine forest of
argan: the day was beautiful; the wind behind us; the people all gay;
my mule wanting no goad. As I am rather superstitious, I took the
following event for a good omen. At a turn in the wood three boys
came up to bid me Muhabbah-bik, and brought upon their slate
‫نصر من هللا و فتح قريب و بسرالمومنين‬
nasr mini-llahi wa fat-hu karibu wa basre-l múminína—“Help from
God, and victory is near at hand, and good tidings for the faithful in
God.” We continued our route, meeting a great number of people;
the ground was carpeted with flowers. Arrived at the foot of a
mountain, and crossing a stream, we came to our halt at half-past
six, at Edvvisán or Smemo,[80] where we were well received, and
liked the people. I was very tired, and having no appetite, took a
draught of sour milk, and laying myself down, was soon fast asleep.
Thursday, March 24.—Therm. 62°. Up early, but did not start till
eight A.M. The country here is well cultivated, and the barley has
already attained its full height: the land is fertile. At an hour’s
distance from this place there are two large salt-mines: we visited
one of them: the salt floats upon the surface of a brine lake, highly
impregnated. The trees here begin to be finer. There is a hill of sand
in the neighbourhood, where it is said that the Christians used to
bring their horses to roll themselves. The water is fine, and tanks
have been built along the whole road from Mogadór, distant from
each other about a two hours’ journey. We halted at noon; the
ground was covered with wild mignionette; the cuckoo was heard the
whole day, and a shepherd, with a shrill pipe, accompanied each
flock: the scenery to-day charming. We did not reach our intended
halt; for the heat was tremendous; and yet, strange to say, I was the
only person who did not suffer by it. The thermometer on my saddle
stood at 114° for some hours together: in the shade even it was 90°.
The place called Edujwilil is a miserable one. We are to have a
longer day to-morrow, as I wish to arrive before the feast: dined on
leben, (sour milk), and after taking tea went to bed.
Friday, March 25.—Therm. 66°. The noise I made last night has
done some good. We had yesterday a fine view of the snowy peaks
of Atlas. I never had such a night as at this place. Edujwilil outdoes in
vermin Safilmel: I could not bear to be in the room, and sat outside of
the house all the night; I will have my own way this evening. The
whole road was rendered very beautiful by large plantations of the
almond-tree. Some of the fruit was nearly ripe; the corn was high,
and the soil richer. We came again upon the Atlas range; where it
reaches to the sea; it has fine sloping hills, and round-capped chalk
mountains. We entered a magnificent pass, that took us an hour to
get through it: the scenery here was very striking. A great deal of our
route lay through the road cut by Muley Suleiman. My soldier rode
his white horse, which he made to kneel down at the tombs. Arrived
at Hájí Mohamed’s at Beni Tamer: this village is called Ait Isak,
where we received presents, Mr. Willshire having told him to take
care of us. We put up in a shed, where we had a fine view of the
sea.
Saturday, March 26.—Therm. 70°. I am so much burnt by
yesterday’s sun, that I can scarcely move my hands. We came to
Fernit, where the road turns off to Agadir: we, however, kept down
towards the sea, following a track: we had lots of lāb el barod.[81] At
ten A.M. we rounded the end of a chain, which slopes down to the
sea. The strata here, as in yesterday’s route, were of lime-stone and
sand-stone of every shade, and assumed a variety of forms. There
were numerous caverns, and large masses of pudding-stone. We
passed a fishing station, where we found many boats, and the poles
for drying the fish were placed horizontally from tree to tree. The
ground was covered with the euphorbium, wild lavender and stocks;
and we saw a great quantity of partridges, pigeons, and birds of
prey. We met likewise with an aqueduct to supply the tanks with
water, that occur at about two leagues apart: they are generally from
twelve to fourteen feet deep, and about half filled with water. We
halted at mid-day in a large grove of rhododendrons in full blossom:
the water was bad. In the strata here are quantities of fossil remains.
From the shelving coast we ascended a very steep mountain, and
continued rising to about one thousand feet. Here we found
immense rocks of shells, some of the masses would have weighed
tons. While I was collecting a few specimens, Abú remarked that the
same kind of shells are to be met with at Súdán. Continuing our
route, we descended again towards the sea, and went along the
sands till dark, and then climbing a kind of Gibraltar rock, reached
our resting place, Tamaraet; where, however, we could get nothing,
nor find even a place for pitching the tent: and as we were not
permitted to enter a house, we were compelled to sleep in the open
air, while a heavy dew was falling.
Sunday, Mar. 27.—Therm. 65°. Up early; walked out and enjoyed
the view, from a considerable elevation. Read a part of the morning
service. Did not get off till eight, P.M.: had a most splendid ride of two
hours to Agadír, which exhibits the remains of great strength, and of
some splendour. We had the upper part of the fortress allotted to us,
from which the view was magnificent, but the heat excessive: we are
to remain here to-day and to-morrow. Read the prayers, and washed
some clothes. Walked through the ruins; there was scarcely a house;
some five or six buildings, resembling shops, supplied the wants of a
population not exceeding one hundred souls including Jews and
children; I have since heard that there are but thirty. The walls are
very good, and the Káïd has been building a new fort. Below it, and
about half a mile off is Fontí,[82] where there is a very fine spring,
which supplies this place with water. The governor was particularly
civil, in fact he over-did the thing, for every two hours he brought us
food. The moon rose beautifully; the night was fine, but cold: I
walked on the battery till nine P.M.
Monday, Mar. 28.—Therm. 60°. Air cold, weather hazy. This is the
grand feast of the Mussulmans; the last day of Dhí-l Hajjah, and the
end of the year. All my people are so changed by washing
themselves, that I hardly know them again. We went through the
ceremony of kissing each other, and giving blessings; I had my
blessing sent me as soon as day broke. On this day the gates of the
Ka’abah are opened; nor do the Mussulmans go to the mosque, but
say their prayers outside of the town. When these are finished, either
at the Masallá[83] or in the circle, a sheep is slaughtered and placed
immediately before a man upon a fleet horse; if it reaches the town
alive, the year will be an abundant one, and vice versa. Walked out
to Fontí, when I was overtaken by a courier from Mogadór, who
brought letters to the Káïd here, and the Káïd of my own soldiers,
and one from Mr. Willshire to myself; by which I find I am now to go
to Teródánt. A cry of danger has been set up, and hints given me to
leave the country. The governor of Mogadór is to give me three
bullocks, and I am to be allowed to ship haikes and leopard skins,
which is considered a great privilege, but I have refused; and have
sent again to his highness, to ask definitively whether I am to go or
not to Súdán. The fear is that something may happen to me, for
which he will get the blame, as that is the province which barely
acknowledges his power. For my own part, I am better pleased with
the people here than any I have seen in his dominions. The cousin of
Sídí Mabárik Benbey has this day paid me a visit, and requested me
to send a letter for him to London. All the people here are my friends;
and I am sure I could get on if the Sultán would leave me to myself. I
have to wait here a fortnight, imprisoned in the castle of Agadír,
Mashallah!
Tuesday, Mar. 29.—Therm. 66°. As I was going to bed I heard the
din of preparation; my soldiers were moving into the court, and
others placed above, and one in the door-way with his gun. On
asking the reason, I was told a fine story about some bad people
outside, who were determined to lay hold of me, and that they would
not allow me to proceed. I am thus completely a prisoner, and with
little chance of getting away; but I have made up my mind to bear all.
The night, however, passed away without any disturbance. Two
soldiers started for Mogadór, and I went out attended by the Káïd
and the four soldiers here, to Fontí. The whole town turned out to
see me. On our way down I found the same kind of shells occurring,
as those we had seen on the road: they run through the mountain,
but take a different direction to the strata; the latter run N.E., and are
cut by the shells at right angles; I collected several specimens. At
Fontí the population is considerable; the people were quite delighted
to see me, as they hoped I had come in the character of a merchant,
to re-open a channel of commerce, that had been diverted
elsewhere: formerly this was the great depôt of trade. There is a fine
bay here, and good anchorage; and every article of commerce is to
be had twenty per cent. cheaper than at Mogadór. We returned by
the road leading to Tildee: the people here say they could find freight
for two hundred vessels, as all the produce of Súdán, and the oil,
almonds, and gum of Sús, could be shipped here; and that they
could take in return all kinds of English produce, in cloth, iron, &c.,
for which there would be a ready sale. Returned home, when one of
my soldiers, an Issówi, was seized with the devil: it took four men to
hold him down, and prevent him from jumping over the battlements.
He then broke away from us, and throwing himself upon the ground
began tearing himself: I never saw anything so explanatory of the
account in Scripture. The cure is as curious as the disease. They
burn some benzoin under the nose of the patient, which quiets him
for a time, but as soon as the fumes cease, he breaks out again, and
lays hold of every thing within his reach; in some cases he has been
known to destroy children. This poor creature ate several pieces of
paper, bits of lime and dirt; but when the words “Sídí Benel Abbás,
Sídí Abd-el Kádir,” &c.,[84] were pronounced, his hands, which had
been firmly closed, were opened: his companions then called upon
Abú to say the Fátihah,[85] in which all joined; when he came to
himself, although he appeared and talked like a child for some
minutes, after which he quite recovered. The weather beautiful.
Visited the ruins, and bought a dagger. Ordered one of their shirts,
which the natives work very prettily: paid and discharged my
muleteers, who are sadly disappointed at my not going on. Passed
an hour with the governor upon the terrace, talking upon politics and
physic.
Wednesday, Mar. 30.—Therm. 70°. Very close; a slight fall of rain.
Not feeling very well, I kept my room. Received a second courier:
wrote answers, and likewise letters to Lord Glenelg, his Royal
Highness (the Duke of Sussex), to Colonel Fitzclarence (Earl of
Munster), soliciting a letter to Hámed Libbú, King of Tumbuktú. A
caravan has been robbed: an extra guard was put on me, six above,
and ten below. There are great fears about me on the part of the
people of Agadír.
Thursday, Mar. 31.—Therm. 72°. Finished my letters, and ordered
the courier to start at day-break; did not retire to rest till midnight.
During the night there were symptoms of the Sumúm; we were
covered with the dust, and almost suffocated by it: the heat this
morning is beyond all conception, the air literally burns one’s face.
The therm. rose in the sun at half-past ten to 128°., and the one in
the bomb-proof battery to 75°., while that, but in the shade, out of
doors, stood at 86°. There is, however, a moderate breeze, (from the
sea), but it is quite overpowering to pass from one side of the battery
to the other. At one P.M. therm. in the sun reached 133°., that in the
battery was steady at 90°. Purchased two gold coins, found in rather
a curious manner: a boy was pursuing a young pigeon through some
ruined tombs, in the neighbourhood, and while he was grubbing out
the hole into which the bird had fled, he found three coins; continuing
his search, he threw up several human bones, and came at last to a
perfect skeleton. The Káïd tells me they do find, at times, coins in the
tombs; but these gold Moorish ones are of uncommon occurrence.
Not feeling very well I took some zemítaah:[86] I like this much, this is
the Mogús of Súdán. The heat has been so overpowering that none
of us could move about, not even Abú. At nine A.M. the therm. was
80°. A large fire is seen blazing towards the river. Went to rest early.
Good Friday, Apr. 1.—Therm. 72°. No hot-cross buns here. Read
the service. Visited the tomb of Mogonadel, the patron saint of the
place; afterwards took a round at Fontí: went thence towards the
sea, and from thence to what they call their silver mine, which
contains nothing but a few ruins of quartz in the lime-stone and
sand-stone. Dispatched a man to the copper mines for specimens.
Wind E., and much cooler to-day. Started some hares and a snake.
It is said it never rains here, although it does all round. Cohen, and
his boy, are gone to keep the Passover with the Jews.
Saturday, Apr. 2.—Therm. 80°. The heat was so oppressive to-
day I could not stir out: the therm. in the sun 132°., and remained so
for many hours. All of us were done up. We are working in the house
in reducing the baggage, and getting every thing in order to start at a
moment’s notice. Sad accounts are daily coming in of the people
about here; every person who ventures out is robbed and beaten:
several people are waiting here for an escort. I cannot so much
blame the Shilhahs and Súsís;[87] they have been sadly oppressed
by the Sultán’s army; and now it is gone, they are repaying
themselves. They acknowledge no law but that of force, and exhibit
but little trace of any religion: their tribes extend, with intervals, to the
Gambia. This has been a dies non.
Sunday, Apr. 3.—Therm. 72°.—A large wolf stole up to the battery
during the night, which roused us all. To-day the wind feels cold, and
there is such a heavy fog that we cannot see the sea; the sun rarely
broke through. There is, at least, a difference of 40°. between the
temperature of to-day and yesterday out of doors, and of 8 to 10
within. Felt not all well, and kept all day to my carpet: beginning to
get tired of Agadír. An arrival from Teródánt, but it brought no news.
Monday, Apr. 4.—Therm. 65°. Very cold, and a mist equal to rain.
All hard at work in making leather bottles, &c., for the water.
Received a large present of fish. A large Káfilah[88] passed this
morning for Teródánt. Did not leave the battery all day.
Tuesday, Apr. 5.—Therm. 72°. The mist continues heavy, and
quite darkening the air. Not very well; kept within the battery. Alas! all
our bread is gone, and these people eat none; and as it is the feast
of unleavened bread, the Jews cannot make any for me, a
deprivation which I feel not a little. The man was seized again by the
devil. Heard the history of the enchanted castle, and the black
woman, who lives at three days’ ride from this place. Heard likewise
of the Jews, and of the tombs. I must see them on my way to Wád
Nún.
Wednesday, Apr. 6.—Therm. 72°. Heavy mist, with rain in the
N.W. A dies non.
Thursday, Apr. 7.—Therm. 76°. Beginning to look out for news:
my man returned from the mines; the specimens he brought were
very bad; he found great difficulty in getting any at all. There was a
market to-day, where I bought nothing but a few carrots. Quite tired
of Agadír. Hope two or three days will decide whether I can go on or
not.
Friday, April 8.—Therm. 60°. Very cold. My fingers were so
chilled, that I could not dress myself. At noon a courier arrived; all is
right; wrote my letters, and after detaining the man an hour,
dispatched him again to Mogadór, to say that we should be ready to
start at an hour’s notice. The feast of the Passover finishes to-day: it
has been very cold, with a strong breeze from the N.E.
Saturday, April 9.—Therm. 70°. Day beautiful; but a stiff gale from
the E. This is the clearest day we have yet had here. The mountains
can be seen distinctly: hard at work in arranging bags, &c.
Sunday, April 10.—Therm. 74°. Weather beautiful. Read the
service. A large káfilah is now passing from Sús; the mountains very
visible; in the afternoon there was a repetition of the easterly wind,
accompanied with the dust, which was very distressing.
Monday, April 11.—Therm. 68°. Wind strong from the E.
Disappointed again, as Hájí Majíibí[89] will not start for some days.
Our horses are to leave Mogadór to-morrow, in order that they may
be fresh for the start (‘Inshállah’) on Saturday next.
Tuesday, April 12.—Therm. 68°. The wind has got more to the N.
with weather very clear. This delay makes me very fidgetty: besides,
I am so well known here, that various reports have been circulated
about me, which rather annoy me. In the evening, thermometer fell
to 56°, when it became very cold. The horses and mules are to leave
Mogadór to-day.
Wednesday, April 13.—Therm. 60°. A dies non. Felt very poorly:
had a touch of the lumbago. Weather variable. Thirst excessive.
Thursday, April 14.—Therm. 70°. Looking out for the arrival of the
horses, as Hájí Majíibí is to start to-day. The people here are rather
too inquisitive, and I am getting rather alarmed. Evening came, but
brought no tidings of my horses, nor has a courier arrived. I am very
uneasy, and all the people here full of conjectures. The Hájí is
thinking only of himself. If he would only consider for one moment
what an object of suspicion I am, while I remain here, he would hurry
on; but no, it is all self in this country. I cannot bite, and therefore I
had better not shew my teeth. Wind got round to the E. The
thermometer fell 11°., when it became very cold. Went to my carpet
rather sulky.
Friday, April 15.—Therm. 70°. This is the first day of the
Mohammedan year 1252. The horses, &c. have arrived. I made my
present to the Sheïkh; got the Sultán’s letter, and one for Sheïkh
Mobarik. A report has reached Mógador, that a party is waiting for
me, who have determined to murder me. The governor here is very
desirous not to let me go. I question, however, if there are any real
grounds for these fears. At half-past seven there came on one of the
severest gales of wind I ever experienced; it threatened the very
fortress: a heavy sea, with lightning in the S.E. The gale from the
N.W. continued to blow hard till half-past nine. This change of
weather may go much against me. I find that I am an object of great
suspicion. A party have sent to ask me to prescribe for a man who
has been bewitched, and is now in a decline. I promised to see him
on Monday, although he lives twenty miles off. This may, however,
do me some good. The people of his tribe offered to bring him here,
but I pointed out the danger of removing him, and hope to gain their
good-will by going so far to visit a Muselmán. Tired, but not sleepy:
no appetite, and out of spirits.
Saturday, April 16.—Therm. 72°. Day beautiful; the gale passed
off without doing any damage. There was one about six weeks ago,
which threatened destruction to the whole place. Despite all I said
about the sick man, they have brought him to-day to Fontí. I had
promised to go down and see him, when the sun was a little lower; I
was scarcely half way down the rock, when I met him on the road; he
was attended by eight of his people, who took it by turns to hold him
on his horse, a splendid animal; the poor Sheïkh, Hájí Ibráhím, was
seriously ill. As he was so far up, I ordered him to the governor’s,
and told his attendants to lay him down, and let him obtain some
rest, previous to my examination of him. I found him in a sad state,
nearly dying to all appearance; he had been frightened, as they call
it, by some spirit, whom, as usual, they had burned out: he had been
fired all over his stomach, which had now lost all its powers. I gave
him a saline draught with tartar acid in effervescence, and made him
a good basin of arrow-root. He no sooner tasted it, than he put the
bowl to his mouth, and nearly emptied it, telling the crowd, that had
now collected to see the holy man, that he had got at last what his
stomach was craving for. I promised to make him a breakfast on the
morrow, and to give him some medicines. By my treatment of him, I
got no little credit; for which I can obtain some help from him in
return. Am heartily sick of this place; although it has lost all its
commerce, it has still a considerable revenue; it may be considered
a frontier town, and is capable of being well defended; it receives
one ducat a-head for all slaves that pass through it, two ounces for
each camel, half a peseta for each mule, and two blanquillas for
each donkey; and as it is in the great road to Sús and Súdán, these
imposts produce a large income.
Sunday, April 17.—Therm. 74°. Had hardly returned from my
patient, when Hájí Majíibí arrived. I repaired immediately to the
governor. All is now arranged for my departure to-morrow, at break
of day: hard at work in packing up. Wrote my letters: dispatched
Cohen and his boy: received a blessing in the synagogue yesterday,
which cost four dollars. I have to part with most of my things, as I
shall be allowed only two mules; the sharks are therefore looking out
for what they can get. I am quite sick at heart at these Moors: poor
ignorant creatures. I have just this moment learned that there is a
town E. of Teródánt, called Tazelt, where there is a Christian church,
in perfect preservation, well finished and painted, but shut up: it is
held in some veneration by the natives, who can only look into it
through the windows. There are also Christian villages in the
neighbourhood of the church. Went down to Fontí; every thing works
well; I am to start as a soldier, accompanying some mules: took
leave of my patient, who is to go with me; but not a soul has an idea
of this. Cohen is very anxious to go on. I have, at his own request,
given him a letter to Lord Glenelg: have packed up every thing: am in
a great bustle. I fear, however, there will be some detention to-
morrow. I suspect the courier has been stopped, as no escort was
visible at sun-set. Laid down to rest, but with no chance of sleeping,
as I am to be up at the earliest dawn, to start, if possible, to-morrow.
 Monday, April 18.—Therm. 70°. Up at four A.M., but did not get
away till seven. I was accompanied as far as the river by the
governor, and four soldiers, Hájí Ibráhím, and our own party; in all
sixteen souls. At half-past eight we came to the boundary of the
district, where a prayer was offered up for the Sultán; after which, the
governor and his party returned. In defiance of all I said about Hájí
Ibráhím’s state of health, he would go on, or rather his tribe
compelled him, to his own house, distant a ride of four hours. Here
we stopped, and had kuskusú and barley-cakes with butter, and
some leben (sour milk). Ibráhím was, indeed, in a sad state of
health.[90] I gave him the medicines I thought best. The perfect
indifference shewn by Hájí Majíbí towards a fellow-creature quite
disgusted me. Had my horse shod, and proceeded S. to Stúka,
attended by a strange semi-devil from the Hájí (Ibráhím), who told
me that I need be under no alarm, as he could bring one hundred
horse into the field, and had promised to protect me. Crossed the
Sús river, which is here a considerable stream, although twenty
miles from the sea. We arrived at a little before six P.M., at the house
of Sheïkh Hamed, who is a fine young man: he and the people of his
town were all out at prayers. The country is fine, with large
plantations of figs and almonds. During the time that our food was
preparing, I was amused with some good ball-firing, the party
standing on one leg or lying down: they are a merry people. We
commenced with bread and butter and honey; then came kuskusú;
then tea till midnight. Abú here received from one of his countrymen
some account of his friends. The pocket-handkerchief is used for the
towel generally, and the corner of the mat lifted up for wiping the
nose: the belching is quite beastly. Passed but a bad night.
Tuesday, April 19.—Therm. 72°. Up at four A.M. and got off at six.
Just before starting, I had the place half-full of patients. I had been
bored to death the night before with questions. One man was
brought to me with a ball in his foot; and by way of assisting me to
cure him, the gun was brought from which the ball had been
discharged. Accompanied by the brother of the Sheïkh and four of
his people, and Hájí Ibráhím’s semi-devil, we reached the Mésah, a
finer river here than at Sús. Its course was S.S.W. We rode along its
banks through a fine and populous district, called Assa, and crossed
it at the great Sók (Tlátah.) Here we met the Sheïkh of ’Akúlí, with
twenty horsemen. Our party stopped; it was a trying moment for me:
the two parties held a council, and after some ten minutes, the
muhabbah-bik[91] (welcome) was pronounced. Here Hájí Ibráhím’s
semi-devil was sent back, and one of the other party took his place,
and conducted us to the house of Sheïkh ’Alí at Tamasert, in the
populous district of ’Akúlí, from which the sea is distant about a half
mile. The people here are said to be very bad characters, and their
looks confirm the tale. We had tea and kuskusú. The Sheïkh was ill,
and I was required to cure him, and a dozen others; but I pretended
to be unwell, and with this view I went without food, for the second
day. Some of Abú’s countrymen came to play and sing to him; and
thus kept me awake till midnight: afterwards the vermin, which were
a worse plague than last night, prevented me from sleeping.
Wednesday, April 20.—Therm. 70°. Heavy rain. Up at five A.M.
After eating and drinking, the people took me out to find a spring;
they had water enough, and so I pretended to point out the spot
where they are to dig. We got off at nine, accompanied by Sheïkh
’Alí. Owing to the rain, we travelled very slowly. I fear that I have had
to pay dear for passing this place. We arrived at the residence of a
great saint. This humbug has the power of taking me any where
through Sús. I bought him for dollars. At this point the Sheïkh
left us to return home. The country is completely cultivated: it is
backed by four regular rows of limestone-hills, which serve as a kind
of embankment against the desert. They are now cutting the corn,
which produces more than one hundred fold, most of the seeds
throwing out four stems, and some five. I am not over-pleased with
my conductor, Hájí Majíbí, who, I see plainly, is making a job out of
my journey. We passed the tomb of a great saint, El Ab, where all
the party, but the Káfri (myself) offered up their prayers. We then
entered a pass, which required some hard climbing. My horse
became so lame, that I was compelled to walk the rest of the
journey, a distance of three hours; when we reached the residence
of another great saint. Here they have to prepare a room for myself,
as I cannot be permitted to enter his apartment. My grumbling to-day
has been of service. I have some Tumbucktú quilts laid over my
carpet to serve for a bed. Received some barley-cakes and honey,
but could not eat them; afterwards butter and honey, and leben (sour
milk); but it will not do: a biscuit is the only food I have taken this day,
although I have fasted for three. The Moors, and Hájí Majíbí
amongst them, who had taken some refuse kuskusú from some
labourers on the road, were eating and drinking till midnight. Not
being allowed to enter the room of the saint, I was put into the
garden, until one was prepared. This is the district of Eit Bamáram.
The water is here both bad and scarce.
Thursday, April 21.—Therm. 74°. Weather muggy, with much rain.
I had been promised that I should reach Wád Nún to-day; but after
travelling two hours, having waited till past nine for the Moors to eat
three times, we met a courier from Wád Nún, and we were then
taken out of our road to a house, where we are to stop all day. This, I
am convinced, is owing to Hájí Majíbí not having sent word in proper
time. I am most grievously disappointed, but must bear it as well as I
can; the day hangs very heavy on my hands. A lot of these beasts
came as usual for physic; called me káfrí, and all the rest of it, but
could get nothing to eat. I would not advise any other traveller to
come through Sús: they ask for every thing, but will neither give, nor
even shew any thing. They affect much on the score of religion;
never going in or out, sitting up or standing, without the Bismillah. At
eight P.M. got four eggs, and had some biscuit. I received a message
from the Sheïkh, stating that we are to arrive to-morrow. This place is
Tisseret, famed for its copper mines.
Friday, April 22.—Up at four, A.M., or rather up all night. Vermin in
myriads. Hurried away; and after one hour’s march, stopped for two
more to eat. At length we reached Ifran Ochran, the last town in Eit
Bamáram. Passed the range of mountains in Lower Sús, and
entered Wád Nún. During the route, saw people reaping corn, with
arms by their side. Wád Nún is a large town, with several small
clusters of buildings: it derives its name[92] from a Portuguese
Queen, Núnah. Hence Wád Nún is the valley of Núnah: the place is
distant from the sea a journey of five or six hours. Our first halt was
on the banks of a magnificent stream of water. When we came to the
spring (Agusa), we washed and drank, while the people prayed. A
fine line of hills protects it from the Sahra. We found here the Sheïkh
waiting for us, who took us at once into his house: at half-past five he
gave us a good dinner, which set me all right. I am much pleased
with him. After tea, all the great folks of the place came to see me:
as soon as he had read the Sultán’s letter, he sent for Hájí Majíbí:
when he came back at nine, he said he wanted three double-
barrelled guns, silver-mounted, and the barrels damascened in gold,
together with an air-gun; to which I am to add my brace of pistols. I
talked over all the wonders of England, and then wrote to Mr.
Willshire to tell him what I had done. The Sheïkh assures me, he will
send me without the least danger. I like him much: he has a large
and fine family. I have brought him a handsome present, and I fear
he expects that I shall return this way back: but this is not in the
bond. Abú is very helpless. Here one begins to see slavery again:
the house swarms with slaves, who form a large item of property.
This Berúk is a person of great wealth: he possesses forty thousand
head of cattle, and has never less than one thousand camels,
working between here and Súdán. His eldest son is a fine young
man. Went to bed at midnight, quite done up.
Saturday, April 23.—Therm. 76°. Symptoms of heat. Had my sour
milk, and then unpacked my things. The Sheïkh highly amused with
the pillow, and the little globe firing the guns: he was smoking and
laughing alternately. All goes on well. I was kept up to write my
letters, and they are not yet sent off: these people are so very
dilatory, where they are not immediately interested. Patients are
beginning to come in. The fellows, who were so free on the road,
have come a little to their senses. Lots of patients, and amongst
them a man, who had been wounded sadly. Had the whole of the
Sheïkh’s family with me: gave each of his little children a bracelet. In
the afternoon walked about and round the town: went to the Abú
Sebah’s tents; from thence to the garden, where I saw a fine crop of
apples: saw likewise several heïries, both of dromedaries and
horses. As the Sheïkh’s cattle were coming in, I perceived that what
looked like a river, was a very small stream of water: it is the Assaka.
The view from the heights is rather pretty over fields of tobacco and
plantations of date-trees; here and there a garden, and many fine
wells: saw a part of my companions, who are to be fasting to-day,
but we hope we shall have some supper, although I am sick at the
sight of my sable attendants, who have the itch very bad. I shall have
to remain here at least three weeks, although I should be glad to
shorten the time.
Sunday, April 24.—Therm. 76°. I was kept up till midnight grinding
a small barrel-organ; and fainting with hunger, I took at last to the
kuskusú, and got some sleep. This morning my patients have
increased, so that I am obliged to say “hold.” Here the people are
really ill; but so stupid or stubborn, that it is impossible to do them
any good. Gorged to their throats, they sleep half their time away,
and then wonder they are ill. The houses here are better than any in
Marocco, and look like casts[93] in plaster, being built piece by piece
in moulds. These people have no idea of taking a draught, and they
sip the most nauseous medicines. As soon as all are asleep, I take
the opportunity of writing up the journal, and reading the prayers.
This is Sók-day, and no little bustle. I do not feel very well, the heat is
so excessive. We had a capital supper of meat, mixed with grapes
and butter; a strange mixture, but a good dish. A man, who has got a
gold mine here, has come to ask me about it. Great doings may be
expected here to-morrow, as I have given to twenty persons strong
doses of medicine. But they are such fools.
Monday, April 25.—Therm. 70°. Very close; heavy dew through
the night, during which I was called up twice to visit patients, some of
whom are very ill; but I am expected to cure them by merely looking
at them; a most disheartening business. Up early and went to the
garden; returned home, and visited patients. All my cigars are gone,
and I am now manufacturing a pipe. Have the prospect of being here
a month; but I must bear it all, as I am quite in the power of these
people. Walked round the town, which is a large one: went to the
millah; looked about for springs. Am sadly bored. They will not give
me a moment’s rest.
Tuesday, April 26.—Therm. 76°. Very hot, and towards mid-day
the sun was oppressive beyond description. Had a strange request
from Hájí Majíbí, whom I hate: he had the impudence to ask me for
one of my gold watches, although he knows they are worth here five
hundred dollars. I shall put him in the hands of Mr. Willshire, to whom
I shall write strongly on the whole subject. The Sheïkh had a
conversation with Abú and myself this evening, and promised us
every thing we could desire; he assured me that he both could and
would protect us. I felt quite satisfied with this: but later in the
evening, that scoundrel, Majíbí, came and started difficulties; that
there was danger here, and much to be arranged there: he was not
aware of the conversation I had had with the Sheïkh. I was sadly
annoyed, and determined to give him a set-down in the morning.