Sunburst Granny Square ~ Nederlandse versie!!

Because I've been asked multiple times for a translation of the lovely Sunburst-pattern, this post will be in Dutch! :) For the original English pattern check out this post!

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Lieve Nederlandstalige lezers! Ik krijg regelmatig de vraag of ik een vertaling heb van het patroon van de Sunburst Granny Square-deken. Aangezien ik mezelf in 2010 via Youtube heb leren haken en vervolgens direct ben begonnen met Engelstalige patronen, steken en tutorials, was het nog best een klusje om er een goed verhaal van te maken in het Nederlands!

Maar hier dan toch eindelijk de Nederlandse versie van het Sunburst-patroon! Veel plezier er mee :)

Steken

Losse: Sla de draad om de haaknaald en haal de draad door de lus.

Verbindings-losse: Sla de draad om de haaknaald, steek naald door ruimte van afgeronde Granny Square, haal de draad door de ruimte en door de lus.

Half stokje: Sla de draad om de haaknaald en steek de naald door een volgende steek. Sla weer de draad om de haaknaald en haal deze door de steek (3 lussen op haaknaald). Sla weer de draad om de haaknaald en haal de draad door de 3 lussen.

Stokje: Sla de draad om de haaknaald heen en steek de naald door een volgende steek. Sla weer de draad om de haaknaald en haal deze door de steek (3 lussen op haaknaald). Sla de draad om de haaknaald heen en haal deze door de 2 eerste lussen. Sla weer de draad om de haaknaald en haal deze door de 2 overgebleven lussen.

Puff-steek: *sla draad over haaknaald, steek naald in aangegeven steek en haal de draad door de steek* 3x (7 lussen op haaknaald). Sla de draad over de naald en haal door alle 7 lussen. Haak 1 losse om af te maken.

Cluster-steek: *sla draad over haaknaald, steek naald in aangegeven steek en haal de draad door de steek (3 lussen op haaknaald), haal draad over haaknaald en haal door 2 lussen* 4x (5 lussen op haaknaald). Sla de draad over de naald en haal door alle 7 lussen.

Dubbel stokje: Sla de draad 2x om de haaknaald en steek naald in aangegeven steek. Sla de draad over de haaknaald en haal door steek (4 lussen op haaknaald). Sla de draad over de haaknaald en haal door 2 lussen (3 lussen op haaknaald). Sla draad over de haaknaald en haal door 2 lussen (2 lussen op haaknaald). Sla draad over haaknaald en haal door de 2 laatste lussen op de haaknaald.



Voordat we beginnen eerst een opmerking over het maken van een deken van granny squares: je kan dit op twee manieren doen.

1. Haak een x aantal vierkantjes (ronde 1 - 4) en hecht of haak deze vervolgens aan elkaar. 
2. Haak een x aantal rondjes (ronde 1 - 3) en gebruik vervolgens de 'join-as-you-go' methode om de rondjes aan elkaar te haken met ronde 4.

Hieronder eerst het patroon voor een afgeronde Sunburst Granny Square (ronde 1 - 4)!

Sunburst Granny Square Patroon

Ronde 1

Start met een magische ring (of: ketting van 5 losse en verbind met een losse). Haak 3 losse (telt als eerste stokje) en haak vervolgens 15 stokjes in de ring. Verbind met losse aan de bovenkant van de eerste 3 losse en hecht af. (16 stokjes in totaal)

Ronde 2

Start met een nieuwe kleur, haak 1 losse en haak 1 puff-steek in diezelfde steek. Haak vervolgens een puff-steek in elke steek van de vorige ronde en hecht af. (16 puff-steken in totaal)

Ronde 3

Start met een nieuwe kleur, haak 2 losse in een van de ruimtes van de vorige ronde, *haak cluster-steek, 2 losse* in dezelfde ruimte en herhaal *cluster-steek, 2 losse* in elke ruimte van de vorige ronde. Verbind met een losse aan de eerste cluster-steek en hecht af. (16 cluster-steken in totaal)

Ronde 4
Met deze laatste ronde maak je van de cirkel een vierkant/granny square! Ik vind het zelf voor een deken het mooist om elke 4e ronde in dezelfde kleur te haken, bijvoorbeeld wit of zwart.

Start met de nieuwe kleur in een van de ruimtes van de vorige ronde, haak 4 losse (telt als eerste dubbel stokje) en - in dezelfde ruimte - haak nog eens 2 dubbele stokjes.

Rechte lijn: *haak in de volgende ruimte van de vorige ronde 3 stokjes, in de volgende ruimte 3 halve stokjes en in de volgende ruimte 3 stokjes*. Dit is de eerste rechte lijn van het vierkant!

Vervolgens:

Hoekje: *haak in de volgende ruimte van de vorige ronde 3 dubbele stokjes, 3 losse en nog eens 3 dubbele stokjes*.

Herhaal nu bovenstaande stappen *rechte lijn + hoekje* twee keer, en vervolgens nog eenmaal een *rechte lijn*. Je hebt nu in totaal 4x een rechte lijn en 3 keer een hoek gehaakt. Om de laatste hoek af te maken: haak 3 dubbele stokjes in dezelfde ruimte als de 1e 3 dubbele stokjes van deze ronde, haak 3 losse en verbind tot slot aan de bovenkant van de eerste 4 losse/dubbel stokje.

De Sunburst Granny Square is nu compleet :)

De Join-as-you-go methode (ronde 4)

Voor de duidelijkheid: bij deze methode haak je alle afzonderlijke Granny Squares 'on the go' aan elkaar vast. Je hebt om te beginnen 1 afgeronde Sunburst Granny Square (ronde 1 - 4) nodig en daarnaast (zoals hieronder) een voorraadje rondjes van ronde 1 - 3.

Voordat je begint met het in elkaar zetten van je dekentje is het natuurlijk leuk om na te denken over de kleurcombinaties van de Granny Squares in elke rij! Als je daar over uit bent kun je beginnen.

Pak een rondje (ronde 1 - 3) erbij en begin ronde 4 zoals gebruikelijk: 

• Start met de nieuwe kleur in een van de ruimtes van de vorige ronde, haak 4 losse (telt als eerste dubbel stokje) en - in dezelfde ruimte - haak nog eens 2 dubbele stokjes. 
• Vervolgens de eerste rechte lijn: *haak in de volgende ruimte van de vorige ronde 3 stokjes, in de volgende ruimte 3 halve stokjes en in de volgende ruimte 3 stokjes*. Dit is de eerste rechte lijn van het vierkant!
• In de volgende ruimte haak je 3 dubbele stokjes (als het begin van de volgende hoek).

En nu komt het 'join' gedeelte dus pak de afgeronde Granny Square erbij waar je dit rondje aan vast wilt haken (dit kan dus de eerste afgeronde Granny Square zijn of een Granny Square die al aan het dekentje vast zit):

• Haak 1 losse, steek de naald door een hoek van de afgeronde Granny Square, haal de draad over de naald en trek door de hoek EN de lus op de haaknaald. De twee Granny Sqaures zitten nu aan elkaar vast met een 'verbindings-losse'. 
• Haak vervolgens 1 losse, en in dezelfde ruimte van het rondje waar je eerder de 3 dubbele stokjes haakte, haak nog eens 3 dubbele stokjes. 

(Met andere woorden: in plaats van een hoek met *3x dubbel stokje, 3 losse, 3x dubbel stokje* haak je bij het verbinden *3x dubbel stokje, 1 losse, 1 verbinding-losse door de hoek van de bestaande Granny Square, 1 losse, 3x dubbel stokje*. Hierbij een paar foto's uit een andere tutorial om te illustreren wat de bedoeling is:)

Haak vervolgens weer een verbindings-losse: Steek de haaknaald door de volgende ruimte van de afgeronde Granny Square, haal draad over haaknaald en trek draad door de ruimte en de lus op de haak. (Het nieuwe rondje zit nu op 2 plekjes vast aan de afgeronde Granny Square!)

Ga vervolgens door met de rechte lijn van ronde 4 maar voeg telkens een verbindings-losse toe om te verbinden aan de afgeronde Granny Square:

• Haak 3 stokjes, 1 verbindings-losse
• Haak 3 halve stokjes, 1 verbindings-losse
• Haak 3 stokjes, 1 verbindings-losse

En de volgende hoek:

• Haak 3 dubbele stokjes
• 1 losse
• 1 verbindings-losse
• 1 losse
• Haak 3 dubbele stokjes

Als de nieuwe Granny Square op alle nodige plekken vast zit aan de afgeronde Granny Sqaure maak je gewoon ronde 4 af zoals gebruikelijk.

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En zo maak je een dekentje van de Sunburst Granny Squares! :) Ik wens jullie veel haak-plezier!

 

Sunburst Coaster Pattern

Hey Blogland! Question: can you ever have too many coasters? I'll help you with the answer: NOPE ;)

Coasters are great for using under cups, teapots, plants and so on, and it's always practical to have a few different sizes lying around. So I thought I'd share a pattern I made up the other day, featuring the first few rounds of the Sunburst Granny Pattern. Hope you enjoy!!

Sizes & yarn

I used a 4mm crochet hook and Schachenmayr SMC Bravo. This yarn is 100% acrylic, machine washable and it comes in many, many great colors. The finished coaster is about 16 cm/6 inches across.

Stitches
Single crochet (sc): insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook.

Half double crochet (hdc): yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull loop through stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook.

Double crochet (dc): yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull loop through stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (2 loops remaining on hook). Yarn over and pull through two remaining loops on hook.

Double crochet two together in same space (dc2tog): yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull loop through stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook hook in same space, yarn over and pull loop through stitch (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 3 loops.

Puff stitch: *yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch and draw yarn through stitch* three times (7 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. Chain 1 to lock.

Cluster stitch: *yarn over, insert hook in next stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops* 4 times (5 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

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Note: scroll down to the bottom of this post for a more compact version of the pattern!
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Round 1
Start with a magic circle.

Chain 3 (counts as first dc) and crochet 11 dc's into the magic circle. Join with slip stitch to the beginning chain 3 and fasten off. (12 dc's total)

Round 2
Attach next color, chain 1, puff stitch in same space between dc's of previous round. Continue with crocheting a puff stitch in each space from previous round and join with a slip stitch to the first puff stitch. Fasten off. (12 puff stitches in total) 

Round 3
Attach next color, chain 2, (cluster stitch, chain 2) in the same space and repeat *cluster stitch, chain 2* in each space between puff stitches of previous round. Join with a slip stitch to the beginning cluster stitch. Fasten off. (12 cluster stitches in total) 

Round 4
Attach next color, chain 3 (counts as first dc) and in same space between cluster stitches of previous round crochet 2 dc's, ch 1. Repeat *3 dc, ch1* in every space. Join with a slip stitch to the beginning ch3 and fasten off. (36 dc's in total)

Round 5
Attach next color, chain 3 and in same space between dc's of previous round crochet 1 dc (counts as first dc2tog). Now repeat dc2tog in every space between every dc of previous round. Join with a slip stitch to the beginning ch 3 and fasten off.  (36 stitches in total) 

Round 6
Attach next color in space between dc2tog's of previous round, chain 2 (counts as first hdc) and in same space crochet 1 hdc. Repeat *2 hdc's* in every space between dc2tog's of previous round. Join with a slip stitch to the beginning ch 2 and fasten off. (72 hdc's in total)

Round 7
Attach next color in space between hdc's of previous round and chain 1. In the same space crochet 1 sc and repeat *1sc* in every space between hdc's of previous round. Join with a slip stitch to the beginning ch 2 and fasten off. (72 sc's in total)

And that's it! Quick and easy, and you can combine colors endlessy to create different sets of coasters. Enjoy!!!

Sunburst Coaster Pattern (compact version)

Round 1: Start with a magic circle.Chain 3 (counts as first dc) and crochet 11 dc's into the magic circle. Join with slip stitch to the beginning chain 3 and fasten off. (12 dc's total)

Round 2: Attach next color, chain 1, puff stitch in same space between dc's of previous round. Continue with crocheting a puff stitch in each space from previous round and join with a slip stitch to the first puff stitch. Fasten off. (12 puff stitches in total) 

Round 3: Attach next color, chain 2, (cluster stitch, chain 2) in the same space and repeat *cluster stitch, chain 2* in each space between puff stitches of previous round. Join with a slip stitch to the beginning cluster stitch. Fasten off. (12 cluster stitches in total) 

Round 4: Attach next color, chain 3 (counts as first dc) and in same space between cluster stitches of previous round crochet 2 dc's, ch 1. Repeat *3 dc, ch1* in every space. Join with a slip stitch to the beginning ch3 and fasten off. (36 dc's in total)

Round 5: Attach next color, chain 3 and in same space between dc's of previous round crochet 1 dc (counts as first dc2tog). Now repeat dc2tog in every space between every dc of previous round. Join with a slip stitch to the beginning ch 3 and fasten off.  (36 stitches in total) 

Round 6: Attach next color in space between dc2tog's of previous round, chain 2 (counts as first hdc) and in same space crochet 1 hdc. Repeat *2 hdc's* in every space between dc2tog's of previous round. Join with a slip stitch to the beginning ch 2 and fasten off. (72 hdc's in total)

Round 7: Attach next color in space between hdc's of previous round and chain 1. In the same space crochet 1 sc and repeat *1sc* in every space between hdc's of previous round. Join with a slip stitch to the beginning ch 2 and fasten off. (72 sc's in total)

Crochet Pear Tutorial :)

I hadn't come around to hanging my Pirum Parum-poster by Fine Little Day in my new home yet, so when my new - PINK! :) - sofa arrived and I finally got around to it, I realized the two looked perfect together :) 

And suddenly I felt the strong urge... to crochet a pear!! 

Aren't they cute together? :) I used patterns I found online so this 'tutorial' will simply be a quick walkthrough of how I made the pear, linking to the patterns I've used. Give credit where credit is due, right?! ;)

Pear Pattern
I used this free pattern by June Gilbank on Planet June, which makes for a great pear-shaped plushie! :) Beware of round 5 though: for some reason I kept ending up with a few stitches too many, even on a retry. No idea if it was me or the pattern… but I eventually fixed it with an invisible decrease to end up with 18 stitches for rounds 6-9! Problem solved ;)

Yarn & hook size
By using a chunky grey yarn I had lying around (hook size 8) my pear ended up much bigger than the one in the tutorial - just the way I had planned :) So basically you can use any yarn and matching hook size you'd like to create a bigger or smaller pear. Note that if you decide to go for a bigger pear, you'll need to start stuffing your plushie a few rounds before the patterns tells you to, otherwise the hole will be too small to get the stuffing in properly!

Eyes & nose
For the eyes I used 8mm plastic safety eyes and for the nose a 15 mm plastic safety nose. Please note that the links refer to a random Etsy-shop to give you an example - I bought mine at a local shop ages ago so please search online or in your area where to find them in your country.

Cheeks
With a smaller yarn and hook size (I used a 3,5 mm hook with matching yarn):

Start with a Magic Circle
Round 1: Single crochet 6 times into the Magic Circle and join with a slip stitch to the first sc (6 st)
Round 2: 2 sc into every stitch from round 1 (12 st)

Join with a slip stitch to first stitch from round to and fasten off

Leave a long end of yarn to stitch the cheeks unto your pear. 

And last but not least… adding a Leaf

For the leaf I used this free pattern by Crochet with Raymond, and the same yarn and hook size (3,5mm) I used for the cheeks.

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And there you have it!! Quite a simple little project really… with a very cute result :)

Hope you enjoy!

~Jenny

How to: Create Your Own Wrapping Paper

Creating your own wrapping paper is so easy, you really don't need a how to... but since I love reading these on other blogs I decided to write one anyway to show you how I made my own wrapping paper this Christmas :) 

So here we go!

Step 1: Supplies

Here's what your need:

• Scissors
• Stamps & ink
• Wrapping paper
• Optional: labels & piece of string

Regarding the wrapping paper: I think plain brown paper is the best base, so I initially was looking for some sort of kraft paper. I eventually found this red/brown wrapping paper, which is perfect. Just make sure the surface of the paper is not too shiny, otherwise the ink might smudge.

Step 2: Stamps

Now pick some of your favorite stamps! I chose (from left to right): 

• Volkswagen van (hand carved)
• Mustache (hand carved; you can find my tutorial here)
• Deer 
• Typewriter
• Bicycle
• Weasel (no idea where to get this one - it's sold out where I got it.)

For those interested from the Netherlands: I got most of my stamps from the lovely webshop Buiten de Lijntjes. 

Step 3: Creating the pattern

Cut a piece of paper the size you need for your present, and just stamp rows and rows as shown here to create a pattern. 

And there you have it: your very own wrapping paper :)

Looks cute right? :)

I always love adding a piece of string...

... or a customized label!

I really loved the result :)

I loved it so much I added two rolls of wrapping paper with the gifts :)

So there you have it! Creating your own wrapping paper is super easy, yet really adds something extra and personal to your gifts. 

Hope you enjoyed this little 'How to' and maybe even feel a bit inspired to try this out yourself :)

How to: Make A Hand Carved Stamp

Hey guys! There are probably a gazillion tutorials out there about carving stamps, but I just love making stamps so much I don't really care. These are the interwebz - there's always room for one more tutorial, right? ;)

So here it is: my tutorial for hand carving stamps! I learned how to make stamps a few years back and I was amazed at how easy it was. You don't need to be able to draw and you don't need many supplies to make your very own stamp. 

Let's get started!! :)

Step 1: Supplies

So, here's what you need:

• A pencil
• Tracing paper
• Rubber carving block or eraser
• Carving tools 
• Hobby knife
• Optional: piece of wood & glue

Carving block or eraser?

I've made stamps using both erasers and rubber carving blocks. When it comes to the carving itself there's not much difference in my opinion: both allow smooth carving. Just make sure the eraser doesn't have a texture that is too 'crumbly' and it will work fine. However, a carving block is often much thinner and therefor easier to glue to a piece of wood, which gives the stamp a very beautiful and professional look :) Love it!!

For this stamp I used the Speedy-Carve block from Speedball. Both the carving block and the piece of wood I bought at Noeks.nl. 

My carving tools

I started making stamps using the Essdee carving kit. It works fine, but when it comes down to details the cheaper kits aren't precise enough for my taste. I eventually invested in two linoleum cutters from Pfeil. Handmade in Switzerland, baby!! ;) I use the #11 and #12 and they're a dream to work with.

Step 2: Choosing & drawing out your design

You can make a stamp of anything you like. Find inspiration in books, movies, illustrations or - if you're fortunate - your own drawings! You'll need a print of the design the size you want your stamp to be. Since I cannot draw at all I usually look for pictures online, adjust the size and print the picture - as shown above. For this stamp I used this image. 

Next step is tracing the image. Use tracing paper (sewing pattern paper also works!) and a pencil to trace the image. Think about what part of the image you want colored/filled and what part you want to leave empty/outline: this will influence the look of your stamp greatly. 

In this case I just wanted a simple black mustache, so I only had to draw the outlines. 

Step 3: Transferring the image to your carving block

Place your tracing paper on the carving block with the pencil lines facing the carving block. In other words: the side of the tracing paper where you drew the image should be touching the carving block. 

Now gently start scratching your fingernail over the image: this will transfer the image from the tracing paper to the carving block.  

There you go! You are now ready to start carving. 

Step 4: Carving out your stamp

Always start with your smallest and most precise tool to carve out a thin outline around the image edges; I always use my #11 Pfeil-tool for this. Carve out thin lines wherever you need them: if you want to create a stamp with only the outlines of a mustache (like this) you'll also have to carve a similar thin line on the inside of the pencil lines. Remember carefully which parts of the stamp you want filled/colored and which parts you want to hollow out/outline in the final result to decide where you need to carve!

With this first step get as close to the pencil lines as you can, but remember: it's easier to take away a piece of carving block later, than it is to restore an error... so be careful!! 

Next step is to further carve out along the edges with a slightly bigger tool; I always use my #12 Pfeil tool for this. In this case I only carved out material on the outside of the drawing, because I wanted my finished result to be a solid mustache. (Of course, if you're going for a mustache outline, you'll have to carve out the middle part as well.) 

Step 5: Cut out your stamp

When you're satisfied you can cut out your stamp using a hobby knife. 

Step 6: Try out your stamp and adjust if necessary 

Now it's time to try out your stamp! Look carefully for any imperfections. Make sure there isn't any carving block outside of your drawing to make ugly stripes around the edges (I personally HATE those  - they make it seem so sloppy...). Make adjustments wherever it's necessary until you're satisfied.

Step 7: (Optional) Glue your stamp to a piece of wood

If you want to attach your stamp to a piece of wood, first stamp on top of the wood. Using ink that's fit for wood will give the best result and will prevent smudging. I used VersaCraft #182 'Real Black' (fit for paper, fabric and wood) for this stamp.  

Use some glue to attach your brand new stamp to a piece of wood... and there you go! Your stamp is done!! :)

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! As usual I had a lot of fun writing it and if anyone out there finds it at all helpful, that's a nice bonus :) Hope you guys have fun making your own stamps - I know I do :)

Seventies Granny Square Blanket Tutorial

Hey everyone! Today I'm sharing another tutorial with you: the Super Retro Seventies Granny Square Blanket. Or, in short, the Seventies Blanket ;)

This blanket came to life because I wanted to make something for our new moss green sofa. I wanted to make a blanket with a true retro feel about it, and finally decided to combine bright colors with black borders, creating a real seventies vibe. I absolutely love this combination!!

At the same time I needed squares that were fast and easy to make, but didn't look the part. I absolutely adore the Sunburst Granny Squares, but they are pretty time consuming and when you suffer from back aches, like me, crafting for long periods of time is just not an option anymore. So I needed an alternative.

In short: I love my Seventies Blanket and I would love to share with you how I made it. I'm also joining as-I-go this time around to save even more time and give the blanket a good 'flow', so I will include this method of joining granny squares in this tutorial.

Hope you enjoy!

Sizes & yarn

The Seventies Blanket consists of four rounds measuring about 4 inches in size. I used a 4mm crochet hook and Schachenmayr SMC Bravo. This yarn is 100% acrylic, machine washable and it comes in many, many great colors.

Stitches
Double crochet (dc): yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull loop through stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (2 loops remaining on hook). Yarn over and pull through two remaining loops on hook.

Double crochet two together (dc2tog): yarn over, insert hook into stitch and pull loop through stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull yarn through 2 loops (2 loops left on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, pull yarn through (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull yarn through 2 loops (3 loops remaining on hook). Yarn over and pull through 3 remaining loops on hook.

Treble stitch (trbl): Yarn over hook twice, insert hook into next stitch. Yarn over hook and draw yarn through stitch (4 loops on hook). Pull yarn through two loops (3 loops remaining on hook). Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops remaining). Yarn over and draw through the last two loops on hook.

Round 1
Start with a magic circle. Chain 3 (counting as the first double crochet stitch) followed by a double crochet stitch and then chain 1. You now have one 'cluster'. Next, crochet 2 dc's and chain 1 (this is the second cluster).

Repeat *crochet 2 dc's followed by a chain 1* four more times until you have six of these clusters. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3 and pull the yarn of the magic circle to close the circle.

Round 2

Attach the next color with a slip stitch in one of the chain 1 spaces from the first round. Chain 3 (counting as the first dc) followed by a dc stitch, then chain 1. In the same space, crochet 1 dc2tog and then chain 1.

Move on to the next chain 1 space from the first round and crochet: dc2tog, chain 1, dc2tog, chain 1, all in that same space.

Now, repeat *dc2tog, chain 1, dc2tog, chain 1* in the next four chain 1 spaces from the first round. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3. Your granny circle should now look like this:

Round 3

Attach the next color with a slip stitch in one of the chain 1 spaces from the second round. Chain 3 (counting as the first dc) followed by 2 more dc's in the same spcae, then chain 1.

In the next chain 1 space from the second round, crochet 3 dc's and then chain 1.

Repeat *3 dc's, chain 1* ten times until every chain 1 space is filled. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3. You're granny circle now looks like this:

Round 4

For my Seventies Blanket I used black yarn for every fourth round to create that great retro vibe.

Now, the next steps might sound a bit tricky, but it's not as bad as it seems: you're basically going to turn your Seventies rounds into squares. In the picture below you can see which stitches you'll use for the straight lines (pink) and the corners (blue).

So, to start round 4 attach the next color with a slip stitch in one of the chain 1 spaces from the third round. Chain 4 to count as the first treble stitch and then crochet 2 treble stitches in that same space.

In the next chain 1 space from the third round, *crochet 3 dc's, move over to the next chain 1 space and again crochet 3 dc's*. You now made one of the four straight lines of your square. 

Next, you'll make your first corner: all in the next chain 1 space from the third round crochet 3 treble stitches, chain 3, and crochet another 3 treble stitches. 

Repeat this sequence (straight line + corner) two times, then repeat from * to * (straight line) once. 

To finish your last corner: crochet 3 treble stitches in the same space as the beginning treble stitches, chain 3 and join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 4.

Fasten off and your Seventies Granny Square is done!!

Moment of choice: crochet together or join as-you-go?

If you are not joining as-you-go, just finish a whole bunch of complete granny squares (using rounds 1 - 4) separately and then sew or crochet the squares together. 

For this blanket, I will be joining the squares as-I-go. It's quicker and gives blankets a better 'flow' in my opinion. 

Joining as-you-go

To join as-you-go you will need to make one complete Seventies Square using rounds 1- 4 and then a whole bunch of granny circles using rounds 1 - 3. Make as many as you need, want, can...

... until you have enough to start your blanket! :)

Next you'll have to decide which way to arrange your granny squares. It helps to lay them out, try different combinations and take a step back before you decide. 

As you can see I've already started my blanket and am preparing to add another row by displaying the granny rounds in the order I want to join them. 

So, are you satisfied? Sure?! ;)

Then let's start joining already! Remember you've already made one complete Seventies Granny with four rounds: we'll call this the existing square and this will be the square you'll attach a second square (the new square) to. It doesn't really matter if you are starting your blanket or adding a row like I am: if you get the principle of joining you're there.

So for the new square, start exactly the same as with any fourth round: attach the next color with a slip stitch in one of the chain 1 spaces from the third round. Chain 4 to count as the first treble stitch and then crochet 2 treble stitches in that same space. In the next chain 1 space from the third round, crochet 3 dc's, move over to the next chain 1 space and again crochet 3 dc's. In the next chain 1 space crochet 3 treble stitches. 

You will now have this:

Next, grab the existing square you want to join your new square to because the joining is about to start.

On the new square proceed by chaining 1 and then sticking your hook through a corner of the existing square from front to back, like this:

Wrap the yarn around your hook...

... and pull it through the corner of the existing square and the loop on your hook. The two squares are now joined by a slip stitch.

To complete the corner of your new square: chain 1, and in the same space as the other 3 treble stitches, crochet 3 treble stitches.

Your new square will now look like this:

You get it? Instead of chaining 3 for the corner, you chain 1, attach the squares with a slip stitch, and chain 1 again. You're basically just replacing 1 chain with 1 slip stitch.

Now, your next steps will be:

Straight line

- slip stitch in next space of existing square

- 3 dc's in the next space of the new square

- slip stitch in next space of existing square

- 3 dc's in the next space of the new square

Corner

- slip stitch in next space of existing square

- 3 treble stitches in the next space of the new square

- chain 1

- slip stitch to existing square

- chain 1

- 3 treble stitches in the same space of the new square

And there your have it: your squares are joined!

Now, depending on how far along you are with your blanket, either continue joining the left side of the new square to an existing square, or - like this case - just continue round 4 as usual. Fasten off, and you're done :)

When you've joined your squares add extra stitches in the places where four squares meet to keep them neatly in place.

And there you go. You can now join as many Seventies Squares as you wish to make a small or big blanket, using fast but pretty squares! 

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. I sure enjoyed writing it :)